Nice video, mate. I use real rust on my models. I put a roll of fine steel wool in a quart jar and cover it with vinegar. After a couple of months when I see a lot of rust, I pour the liquid into a stainless steel photo developing tray and wait for it to completely dry. Then I use a single edged razor scraper and scrape out all the rust. It usually comes out as a very fine dust. I collect it into a bottle. Then when I use it I mix it with some Elmer's glue, a little alcohol and a dab of water soluble glycerin and paint it on. If I need an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and gouge out a few areas and fill 'em in with my rust. Works great. I even use it on my wheels and trucks (bogies as you call 'em). I use my rust diluted down with alcohol and brush over the entire model and it gives the appearance of a metal surface. I can make plastic look just like metal. Of course I only use acrylic paints.
Superb effect! I have worked as a volunteer on a few steam lines and seen locos generally nearing the end of their lives looking very run down. Such as the Class 52’s they were literally run into the ground and were streaked in rust whilst in service. Thanks for sharing
Just revisiting these - great tutorials - are you using Acrylic or Enamel thinners? Assume the same effects can be had replacing the white for faded paint with a dark brown or black for dirty paint?
Enamel thinners. The effects can be created with any colour and tones. I've used the same method here on just a standard weathered loco without the rust or faded paint effect.
The trick with the thinners over the weathering powders is brilliant! Excellent video. Does your camera have a manual focus? It sure would have helped with the second half.
Great effects,very realistic on a container or goods wagon,but I can't help thinking if the loco was in constant use,it wouldn't be allowed to get in that condition with the availability of maintenance sheds and the like
bus king locos would of been very shabby in their final days. Class 52's were a good example of this. When withdrawn from service most sat in lines waiting on their fate - becoming heavy faded and slowly rusting. Class 40s being typical of this condition. A Lot of other locos sat longer and looked extremely weather worn.
He says right at the start of the video -- and in the description -- that he's showing "how to weather a locomotive into scrapyard condition." This _isn't_ a locomotive that's in constant use, or being maintained.
Nice video, mate. I use real rust on my models. I put a roll of fine steel wool in a quart jar and cover it with vinegar. After a couple of months when I see a lot of rust, I pour the liquid into a stainless steel photo developing tray and wait for it to completely dry. Then I use a single edged razor scraper and scrape out all the rust. It usually comes out as a very fine dust. I collect it into a bottle. Then when I use it I mix it with some Elmer's glue, a little alcohol and a dab of water soluble glycerin and paint it on. If I need an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and gouge out a few areas and fill 'em in with my rust. Works great. I even use it on my wheels and trucks (bogies as you call 'em). I use my rust diluted down with alcohol and brush over the entire model and it gives the appearance of a metal surface. I can make plastic look just like metal. Of course I only use acrylic paints.
Superb effect! I have worked as a volunteer on a few steam lines and seen locos generally nearing the end of their lives looking very run down. Such as the Class 52’s they were literally run into the ground and were streaked in rust whilst in service. Thanks for sharing
Keyboard Krazy You can cut the body with a soldering iron to model where panels have been cut out to remove parts etc.
Very nice weathering work. Interestings tuto. I like 👍😊
i wasn't entirely convinced until you hit it with thinners....wow,
Very impressive technique. it; looks wonderful. :-)
Very informative.thank you so much for sharing.....on to part two....thank you master....lol...👍
Looking good
Is there a specific reason for brushing side to side only with the white fading layer rather than alternating, circular or blotting brush techniques?
Any streaking on the real thing will be caused by rain running down the roof and body. Rain runs straight down, not sideways or in circles.
Just revisiting these - great tutorials - are you using Acrylic or Enamel thinners? Assume the same effects can be had replacing the white for faded paint with a dark brown or black for dirty paint?
Enamel thinners. The effects can be created with any colour and tones. I've used the same method here on just a standard weathered loco without the rust or faded paint effect.
The trick with the thinners over the weathering powders is brilliant! Excellent video. Does your camera have a manual focus? It sure would have helped with the second half.
Well I'll certainly be doing this
Great effects,very realistic on a container or goods wagon,but I can't help thinking if the loco was in constant use,it wouldn't be allowed to get in that condition with the availability of maintenance sheds and the like
bus king locos would of been very shabby in their final days. Class 52's were a good example of this. When withdrawn from service most sat in lines waiting on their fate - becoming heavy faded and slowly rusting. Class 40s being typical of this condition. A Lot of other locos sat longer and looked extremely weather worn.
He says right at the start of the video -- and in the description -- that he's showing "how to weather a locomotive into scrapyard condition." This _isn't_ a locomotive that's in constant use, or being maintained.
Very nice video. But You should adjust the focus of the camera while brushing the roof. Image isn't completely clear. Thanks
Unfortunately it was filmed on a phone which went out of focus. Lesson learnt.
@@thescrapline4905 Thanks, cogratulation you're very skilled modeller!
Hi there....great video but have a newbie question. Doesn’t the thinners eat into the plastic?
No, it's designed to be used on plastic models.
nyce
Could be very interesting but 905 out of focus
Is your paint lacquer based or are you using acrylic paint?
W. Rusty Lane. Varnish I use are enamel based. These are mixed with the powders and can easily be 're activated if they dry out to quick.
It really looks like BR they have turned funds for equipment maintenance to nothing😂😂😂😂
As he says at the start of the video, this is weathering a locomotive into scrapyard condition -- not locomotives that are being maintained.