Fantastic! Great swage and I have the option to make any size for the shop. Cannot afford to get a set sent to Israel. The shipping is more than triple the cost. Solves that problem.
A good rule of thumb for these is to forge to half the thickness over the horn before starting to roll. After that, you can roll whichever way is convenient. Also, using a piece of angle iron for the vise support provides a more stable surface especially when using it on a dishing tool like this. Seems like you wasted a lot of gas and time getting to the point of starting the roll.
Great project. good explanation. just found your videos today. Made one of these tools last week before i saw this video. I worked a lot harder with not as good of results. May i suggest an idea for the video? have you considered doing a voice over during editing? . It helps refine the instruction because you are doing it after the fact of the build and it cuts out shop noise that you are trying to talk over like during the use of the torch. Just an idea, but either way I will subscribe to your videos and keep watching.
Hello BCGtrading! Thank you for suggesting voice overs. I have considered trying them. I might have to play with them a bit, and see how I like them. Thanks for subscribing :)
I like the idea of the vise holding the tool... no jumping around that way. Questions for you.. 1) Did you have to square up the rolled surface on the anvil or maybe a cone mandrel? 2) Your torch.. are you using the rose bud on a oxy/acty setup or is it propane? Maybe you could do a video on it? Thanks for the video...
+shadowcastre to answer your first question: I did not have to square up the rolled Edge on the Anvil as it would have been a unnecessary step. The main reason in Rolling the edge of the pipe is to prevent marring on the back side of whatever you're working on. To answer your second question: I am running an oxygen propane torch. I may just do a video on that ! Thanks for the great questions let me know if it helped :-) God bless
I was going to ask the question about torch type and gas, out of interest. The rosebud tips are not a common sight here in the UK, for acetylene welding torches. We just tend to have plain shank (cranked) copper nozzles that are really just for gas welding, from number 1 up to..... I don't know, I've seen a 35., which is very large. These can also be used for heating purposes only and they do give that pinpoint flame tip that a gas welding nozzle produces. A number 3 nozzle is a very nice accurate flame for pinpoint heating. I looked into the rosebud tips and they are expensive here, it seems to me. I think they were over £30 (about $50?), whereas a plain welding nozzle will be about £5 ($8). Then it turns out that the shank is a separate part from the rosebud itself, and the shank costs as much again. So for large scale heating I use an oxy-propane cutting torch, without depressing the pure oxygen trigger so as not to actually cut. The two part nozzles for those are less than £10. Good job you've done there and I'm going to make some. I never thought of this before. I going to just stand the pipe up onto the coals on a coal forge to get the end hot, then a quick move to the vice.
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I was watching a medieval blacksmith the other day and he whipped out his acetylene torch and gave a lecture on rosebud selection. 😁😁
Reminds me of flaring tubing, if you make many, might be a good idea to make a flaring swage block
Ha ha caught myself turning my head and closing my eyes when he was welding!
Lol do it all the time
Fantastic! Great swage and I have the option to make any size for the shop. Cannot afford to get a set sent to Israel. The shipping is more than triple the cost. Solves that problem.
SOO many options 😂 I look forward to the saw blade bowl on there😃
+Not only Wood that one is coming out this evening! So stay tuned:-)
A good rule of thumb for these is to forge to half the thickness over the horn before starting to roll. After that, you can roll whichever way is convenient. Also, using a piece of angle iron for the vise support provides a more stable surface especially when using it on a dishing tool like this. Seems like you wasted a lot of gas and time getting to the point of starting the roll.
Very interesting to see that how to roll an edge out
Nice demo. Good explanation.
+William Bland thank you very much and thank you for taking the time to watch. God bless
Great project. good explanation. just found your videos today. Made one of these tools last week before i saw this video. I worked a lot harder with not as good of results. May i suggest an idea for the video? have you considered doing a voice over during editing? . It helps refine the instruction because you are doing it after the fact of the build and it cuts out shop noise that you are trying to talk over like during the use of the torch. Just an idea, but either way I will subscribe to your videos and keep watching.
Hello BCGtrading! Thank you for suggesting voice overs. I have considered trying them. I might have to play with them a bit, and see how I like them. Thanks for subscribing :)
I like the idea of the vise holding the tool... no jumping around that way.
Questions for you..
1) Did you have to square up the rolled surface on the anvil or maybe a cone mandrel?
2) Your torch.. are you using the rose bud on a oxy/acty setup or is it propane? Maybe you could do a video on it?
Thanks for the video...
+shadowcastre to answer your first question: I did not have to square up the rolled Edge on the Anvil as it would have been a unnecessary step. The main reason in Rolling the edge of the pipe is to prevent marring on the back side of whatever you're working on. To answer your second question: I am running an oxygen propane torch. I may just do a video on that ! Thanks for the great questions let me know if it helped :-) God bless
I was going to ask the question about torch type and gas, out of interest.
The rosebud tips are not a common sight here in the UK, for acetylene welding torches. We just tend to have plain shank (cranked) copper nozzles that are really just for gas welding, from number 1 up to..... I don't know, I've seen a 35., which is very large. These can also be used for heating purposes only and they do give that pinpoint flame tip that a gas welding nozzle produces. A number 3 nozzle is a very nice accurate flame for pinpoint heating.
I looked into the rosebud tips and they are expensive here, it seems to me. I think they were over £30 (about $50?), whereas a plain welding nozzle will be about £5 ($8). Then it turns out that the shank is a separate part from the rosebud itself, and the shank costs as much again.
So for large scale heating I use an oxy-propane cutting torch, without depressing the pure oxygen trigger so as not to actually cut. The two part nozzles for those are less than £10.
Good job you've done there and I'm going to make some. I never thought of this before. I going to just stand the pipe up onto the coals on a coal forge to get the end hot, then a quick move to the vice.
Good video!
another option to roll the edge is to get it hot then stick it in the horn of the anvil and hammer it in. then cut to length.
+Eric Simoneau yes sir that would be another option. Thank you for putting that out there God bless
Strange way but like it.pat from Belgium 🔪
i love the vid i will say dont always trust a factory cut they arent always square
👍
Love the video, but cringed at how close the gloves got to the belt sander. I know people that have been seriously injured that way.
Just say you are a "Modern Blacksmith".
+ThisFish yeppers as modern as they come:-)