Upgrading Coil and Relay for Electronic Ignition
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- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2024
- Check out my website for car parts and merch that I am selling - krusebuilt.com/
When upgrading your ignition system to electronic, don't forget to upgrade your coil too!
Pertronix Electronic Ignition, part number 1281; Amazon Link - amzn.to/3zN73H8
Pertronix Flame Thrower Coil, part number 40011; Amazon Link - amzn.to/4gKdFXq
Standard Automotive Relay, 5-pin, 40A, 12V; Amazon Link - amzn.to/47L8faK
Split-Loom to cover wires; Amazon Link - amzn.to/3N9kbcF
1968 F100, 360ci V8, 4 spd, 2WD, Long Bed.
Shot with GoPro Hero 12 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 18.
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Rode Wireless Go II mic kit - amzn.to/3iJrj4c
GoPro Hero 8 Black - amzn.to/3QLpj7V
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I see some FB comments regarding pertronix, saying "don't use a relay" or "don't use the "i" terminal on the solenoid", etc. I installed mine with a relay just as you did here based on your earlier videos on my 66 mustang and it works fantastic! Definitely have to hook up using the relay numbers, since my relay connector wires were different colors that yours. This got another fella in trouble since he went just by your color hookup and his ignition didn't work. We got him straightened out! Thanks again!
Yeah, I try to clarify that the terminal numbers are the critical info, but I also get a lot of people that skip through my videos and then asks questions where I gave the exact answer in the video. It's a vicious cycle, but in the end people get the info they need. :)
Not only do I see people saying stuff like you said on FB, there's also just a ton of bad info out there. I try really hard to make sure I convey good info, but sometimes I get it wrong or I don't say enough. Like this video, I should have talked about giving the Pertronix a good dedicated 12V source when I installed it (a few videos ago), but I elected to do that part later and tons of people spun out, thinking I was trying to give them bad info. If I mess up, I try to highlight it in that video or a follow up video.
It's good to hear your buddy got his relay working, that's the goal of these videos, trying to help the average guy work on his project and show that almost all of this stuff can be done by yourself if that's all you got. :)
Great work, thanks for the relay explanation. Hi from Texas
Thanks!
Petronix, Good choice. After the (Red Box) failed for the third time the Petronix system is the answer. Good video Andy...
Thanks!
Funny enough I just did the p2 on my Mach 1 last night did the coil, points and plug wires all pertronix. I did key on from a fuse because I already had a glass fuse to spade fuse upgrade with spade tap built in but wow it made a difference. My engine cranks up on first key and strong. I could have read the directions wrong but I thought the p1 used the original ballast voltage and the p2 is the one that needs direct 12 volts. I got that from the Cj pony parts install video. Not sure if it matters if the p1 is on direct 12 volts but as you said so much miss match info around
Yeah, the P1 needs a good 12V source too. :)
I found when I put a Pertronix on my 289 mustang, it started to degrade the HT leads, because it was putting more power through the wires. You might get that too, esp if the leads are old & not designed to take the higher voltage.
Yes, a hotter spark needs wires that can do the job. :)
Nice mod! I did something similar when I upgraded my coil. I think I ended up cutting out the pink (resistor wire) and then just running a wire from there. Was definitely a good upgrade. Does your truck run any smoother with the new coil?
I'm sure it does, but I can't really tell yet. I barely drive it, and there's so many other issues with this truck that it would be hard to notice if the new coil helped. I put it in the "sum of the parts" category. :)
Hey bud, I'm in the middle of doing this to mu 70 f100, I have a question hopefully you can help me. The pink resistor wire, what makes it a resistor wire? I was planning on cutting that wire and running a wire like you did, but what exactly did you do. Did you cut the wire and tapped into it or can this pink wire be disconnected from the ignition switch? I have not yet taken out the ignition switch to see for my self.
@@luisflicks4974 I'll chime in before Smackey get's a chance to reply. Yes, you cut that wire out, or even just disconnect it from behind the dash, then replace that section of the Pink with something like a 14ga wire.
What makes it a resistor wire is it's basically a wire that is designed to have a specific impedance over a specific length. This impedance will reduce the voltage seen at the other end of the wire, hence the 6.72V I was measuring on my truck with that Pink wire in place.
Exactly what he said! ^^^
Curious why you went with P1 vs P2 ignitor, since P1 has the issue of potential failure if you leave the ignition on with the motor not running (burned up mine that way, and caused me to upgrade to P2). Great instructional video. Just helped a Mustang guy get his relay figured out for his Pertronix.
I've put the P1 on four vehicles now with zero issue. :)
@AndyKruseChannel I can appreciate that, for sure...but....kinda goes outside of my observations of what you do, since it seems you like to go above and beyond the minimum, especially where your cars are concerned! Just sayin! Keep up the good work.
Hey Andy, I'm in the middle of doing this to my 70 f100, I have a question hopefully you can help me. The plug that you connected to the I terminal after you put the wire for the coil, what is that plug for? I am trying to fire up my truck, I replaced the ignition system with the pertronix 2 with the relay kit they sell but I have to crank the truck form the starter selenoid. I'm confused because I bought the truck with the two wire that run to the starter selenoid cut and I dont know which wire goes where or if I even need both since i put the pertronix 2 system. One of those wires is red and the other looks brownish they have those boots like connectors.
That push-on connector on the "I" terminal that I put on after I connected the wire from the relay is not needed at this point. It goes from the "I" terminal to the "+" terminal on the coil, along with the Pink wire that I mentioned I wanted to bypass. I could have just left it off the "I" terminal, but I wasn't interested in pulling that wire out of the wiring harness, all the way under the dash, and completely removing it. It's not hurting anything to leave it there, plus I taped off the other end. I use that "I" terminal on the starter solenoid to trigger the relay since that "I" terminal sees voltage when the key is turned on. The "S" terminal is connected to the back of the ignition in the dash, when the key is "ON", it sends voltage to the starter solenoid to activate it, allowing the "I" to get voltage. When the key if "OFF", the voltage to the "S" terminal stops and the solenoid deactivates and cuts voltage to the "I" terminal.
There are really good wiring diagrams out there that identify the wires and their wiring path so you can trace them around and see where they go. These kinds of diagrams are a huge help, I use them all the time. :)
Thank you very much sir, hopefully i can get it running. @@AndyKruseChannel
First! 😎
Nice. :)
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3rd!
I've lost track already. :)