Greg, when I make threads like that on the jack screw, I often turn them in the lathe to the point where a die will almost fit, and finish the job with the die. Saves you from overcutting the thread, which I have done far more often than I should have done...
Greg, Good video. I never knew that boiled linseed oil would create a finish like that. I enjoyed the machining of the jack a lot. Never saw a mill attachment at work before, but I knew they existed. Thanks for the project.
I like your methods of blackening. I oil quenched my jack and it come out great. I did mine before seeing this. I heated mine up on a stove top. then I had a small coffee can full of used oil. Then I dropped the hot piece in the oil and it come out looking great! I'd like to get a heating element to be able to do mine outside next time so I don't have to take the hot piece across the yard from the kitchen to dip it.
Hey Greg, With those carbide inserts, face cut from the OD, not out from the centre. Surface speed at the centre is too low to start the cut nicely. Try and avoid cutting past centre, particularly with any tool pressure, it's very easy to flake the edge of the insert.
Thank you very old school just the way I i like it because my old vintage Australia lathe didn’t come with dial indicators on it so I have to improvise and learn the ins and out of my lathe ❤😊
Kudos for getting some useful work out of a lathe milling attachment. I used mine once or twice and went shopping for a Bridgeport. I was surprised at the climb milling you did with that rig--I've always heard you should be cautious doing that even with a solid, purpose-built mill. Your rig didn't seem to have a problem with it. Thanks for posting!
Greg, What a guy! Outside, freezing your ass off, for the benefit of your viewers! The jack came out looking very professional. A great simple project for someone just learning how to run a lathe. Thanks for sharing. Have a good one . . . and stay warm! Dave
Great project Halligan, thanks for sharing. I think that rather than milling an arbitrary size flat for a adjustable wrench, I would have brazed or Silver soldered a nut on top of the jack. Much quicker and available in a standard wrench size.
nice little jack!, i made one with an M20 thread and am not real thrilled with the way the threads are wearing. my next one will be done with ACME (trapezoidal) threads. they can take a bit more of a beating as they are also found in things like vises etc. one other thing i would want to add is a slot in the base so the jack can be bolted down to the mill or drill press table
Hi Greg, When you redesign a component it is not always wise to change things. The pivot at the top of the screw is put there for a reason and that is to allow the screw to turn easily and secondly and the more important point is it stop the screw walking from under the machine . Not only can the machine fall off the jack and cause damage but can also cause severe damage to your person should your hand or fingers be in the wrong place when the fall occurs. If you make the top of the screw slightly rounded this will reduce the tendency to walk as it forms a slight shallow dent in the contact area of the machine base, which will hold the jack in place. This should work but is not as good as the original designed pivot. Cheers MoK
nice video Greg.... back in the 90's in the home shop machinist mag...the serpent belt mod was born...they installed the belt with the ribs up which will give you more surface area and grip ..wondering if you tried it that way ...good camera work bud!
I haven't. I haven't had much problems with the belt slipping. My issue is it doesn't stretch like leather which makes the tension lever a bear to move sometimes. To make that easier I had to loosen the tension on the belt a bit which is why you may hear a small squeal when the lathe starts up on the higher speeds.
I had to stop the video and take a good, long look at that milling attachment. Now I've got ideas running circles in my head. I've got an old, large lathe with a massive T-slotted carriage that might provide some stout support for something like that (if I can find collets that will fit that spindle and mills that will work well under 300 rpm, that is).
+diggerop ... another idea, out of the blue... make some more top ends that you can interchange with the bottoms, but instead of a flat or conical top, make a concave divot, profiled to take a screwy ball of appropriate size. Might help in supporting slightly off or odd shaped pieces.
Can you think of a way to convert your jack style to one that would have a floating head like a 'C' clamp? That way when you are tightening under pressure the object wouldn't 'walk' around with the jack's torque. I can't think of a way with simple shop tools (mill, lathe etc.) to make a receptacle that would capture the 'ball'. If you do I can also use it to repair some of my cheap 'C' clamps where the head has popped off the ball and flared the opening so it will no longer stay on when upside down. Nice project and useful. Always enjoy your videos. Doug
+Douglas Thompson There are several ways to go about that. I am not a fan of the ball topped head tho. It allows your part to be tilted to the axis of force. I like a flat area that it turns on.
+Douglas Thompson For the flat type take a bolt and face it then drill a hole in the center deeper than the hex. drill and tap a hole thru the center of the hex to the hole in the center. Then turn a piece of round stock the size and width of the hex, with another dia. slightly smaller and shorter than the drilled hole in the bolt. Then add a groove in the same place as your drilled and tapped hole. Put together and use insert screw to keep top on.
Hi Mr. H. Just two thoughts 1. How about knurling the side of top of the screw. 2. Put a 1/4" shallow hole in the top of the screw to set a 5/16" steel ball in and make a 1/2"X1/4" disc with a 1/4" hole for a swivel head, Just a thought. >Joe
Greg Great vid Regards the primary drive belt , have you not considered using a poly belt they do them in narrow widths ,as used in washing machine drive belt , turn up a new motor pully tu suit and run it as you do for your other belt looks to be the same size as my Myford primay belt the big bore connie uses poly belts and a VFD drive to give 3000 rpm top wack Stuart
You are the trooper, you go out into the freezing weather, just for your viewers. Someone buy this guy a cup of coffee (or tea). Thanks for sharing, great camera work from the new sky-hook, greatly improves the quality close-ups. Did not know about the Linseed Oil finish, looks to be more than adequate to prevent rust. Like the idea of a nut to hold the base, while turning the screw in or out of the base. P.S., it's not the wife, so much as "*SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED!!!*" Only the married people will under stand. :-)
Looks pretty good. I'm going to be making some jacks soon. I think I'm going to Duracoat the base black and blue the rest. I'll give you a shout out on the video when I do.
Technically, you *are* using oil -- boiled linseed oil... :) I've tried heating a piece up to red hot and then dropping it a pot of deep fry oil and it seemed to work pretty good also. I think used motor oil works a bit better though, but if you don't want to be fooling with used motor oil, the fry oil seems to be ok also.
Halligan142, just a SMALL Correction, concerning the "Flammable Rags" You want to completely saturate that Rag with WATER, & THEN Store it under water ! ! ! I speak from the position of having actually Fought a "Flammable Rags" FIRE. as the Night Time Custodian of a Middle School, I opened our main Work Space: with the increase in OXYGEN from the open door, the Fire Had Everything it NEEDED: (In any order): HEAT/FUEL/OXYGEN !!! the Worker who only did half the "disposal job" thought the "Fire Proof" oily rags container was ENOUGH. He was my BOSS !!!! I soak the rags, put water well over them, and Then a BRICK to weight them down: SEEING ONE Spontaneous Combustion Fire was enough for me. Otherwise, a Great Video.
Nice job but these jacks have the same drawback as the commercial ones. they are to tall. made a few about 15 years ago that have worked quite well. The base is a 1 inch square block with a 1/2-13 tapped hole. For a screw, you can use any 1/2-13 bolt.
Hi. How in the world are you getting those surface finishes? Even on cross-slide manual cuts the finish is perfect. Perhaps its the wide radius of your square insert? I have all carbide inserts coated with fancy kryptonite and whatnot and still can't get as nice a finish. Congrats!
Finally getting around to seeing this one. How has the finish held up? I hadn't heard of blackening with BLO, but I always have that around for woodworking projects, so I'm curious if it's as effective as gun blueing and such. Definitely cheaper. :)
Good for supporting oddball stuff on the drill press. Also good to use on the vice on the horizontal band saw when you want to cut a piece off a short length of stock. Keeps the jaws parallel.
Stationary Engineer vs Hvac Tech,.... im considering both as a potential career choice, can you please help me and let me know which is better to pursue as a career
Nice one Greg! Couple of things; The tooth belts last longer because they dissipate the heat better but they are noisier. Proper belt depth in the pulley for standard belts actually have better torque but do run quieter. IMO the new belt compounds are actually better, but not cheap ones of course. Also curious why you didn't use a fine thread for the screw jacks. I would think that fine threads (3/8-24) would stand up better to pressure and give you ~.010 per 1/4 turn rather than a 64th for 16 threads? Thanks for the great build!
It seems to adhere a little better than regular paint would. I'd put the adhesion on par with the all surface enamel paint that's on my lathe. As far as toughness goes it's not as hard as powder coat. Where as paint may chip off this will only scratch, but it would take something metal grating against it to take the finish off.
1045 machines better than 1018 and are probably the 2 cheapest most common steels you'll be able to get easily. With 90% of your ome shop work unless you're making set up tooling or cutting tools you won't have to harden anything.
Liked the opening ..... Such a Bloke thing. The fairer sex would have cleaned the whole window and then put on the sticker. We lads just clean the bit we need and leave the rest! Class.
Hey. I just wanted to say thanks for the inspiration. I'm a newbie at machining, so I thought this would be a good practice project for me before I start making metal parts for my airplane under construction. Here is my video: ruclips.net/video/RohdyJVXx2w/видео.html
I enjoyed your use of the milling attachment. It is the first vid of a milling attachment used on a South Bend I have found. Thanks.
Greg, when I make threads like that on the jack screw, I often turn them in the lathe to the point where a die will almost fit, and finish the job with the die. Saves you from overcutting the thread, which I have done far more often than I should have done...
Greg, Good video. I never knew that boiled linseed oil would create a finish like that. I enjoyed the machining of the jack a lot. Never saw a mill attachment at work before, but I knew they existed. Thanks for the project.
First time with that finish. Turned out ok.
I like your methods of blackening. I oil quenched my jack and it come out great. I did mine before seeing this. I heated mine up on a stove top. then I had a small coffee can full of used oil. Then I dropped the hot piece in the oil and it come out looking great! I'd like to get a heating element to be able to do mine outside next time so I don't have to take the hot piece across the yard from the kitchen to dip it.
Hey Greg,
With those carbide inserts, face cut from the OD, not out from the centre. Surface speed at the centre is too low to start the cut nicely. Try and avoid cutting past centre, particularly with any tool pressure, it's very easy to flake the edge of the insert.
Thanks for the tip!
+Paul Compton Nice tip. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Thank you very old school just the way I i like it because my old vintage Australia lathe didn’t come with dial indicators on it so I have to improvise and learn the ins and out of my lathe ❤😊
Kudos for getting some useful work out of a lathe milling attachment. I used mine once or twice and went shopping for a Bridgeport. I was surprised at the climb milling you did with that rig--I've always heard you should be cautious doing that even with a solid, purpose-built mill. Your rig didn't seem to have a problem with it. Thanks for posting!
When I use the attachment I have the gibs down pretty tight on both the attachment and the lathe to help with that.
Greg,
What a guy! Outside, freezing your ass off, for the benefit of your viewers! The jack came out looking very professional. A great simple project for someone just learning how to run a lathe. Thanks for sharing.
Have a good one . . . and stay warm!
Dave
Thanks!
I learned something. Great finish with those Warner inserts. REAL nice.
Thank you, sir! I have been waiting to watch this all day until I got home from work. Did not disappoint! Looks like it's time for some meatloaf.
Excellent video, learning new things is why we like watching. I think it turned out quite nice.
Cheers,
Dave
Great job the Jacks turned out well. You have a surprise coming in the mail.
Thank you!
Some nice camera shots Greg -- and like that finish - may give that a try sometime. Nice result.
Neat jack. I need to make some of those myself, maybe you have inspired me to take action. Thanks for sharing.
Great project Halligan, thanks for sharing. I think that rather than milling an arbitrary size flat for a adjustable wrench, I would have brazed or Silver soldered a nut on top of the jack. Much quicker and available in a standard wrench size.
nice little jack!, i made one with an M20 thread and am not real thrilled with the way the threads are wearing. my next one will be done with ACME (trapezoidal) threads. they can take a bit more of a beating as they are also found in things like vises etc. one other thing i would want to add is a slot in the base so the jack can be bolted down to the mill or drill press table
Hi Greg,
When you redesign a component it is not always wise to change things. The pivot at the top of the screw is put there for a reason and that is to allow the screw to turn easily and secondly and the more important point is it stop the screw walking from under the machine . Not only can the machine fall off the jack and cause damage but can also cause severe damage to your person should your hand or fingers be in the wrong place when the fall occurs. If you make the top of the screw slightly rounded this will reduce the tendency to walk as it forms a slight shallow dent in the contact area of the machine base, which will hold the jack in place. This should work but is not as good as the original designed pivot.
Cheers MoK
Excellent job. I had no idea that boiled linseed oil would make such a nice black coating
Me either. First try doing it.
nice video Greg.... back in the 90's in the home shop machinist mag...the serpent belt mod was born...they installed the belt with the ribs up which will give you more surface area and grip ..wondering if you tried it that way ...good camera work bud!
I haven't. I haven't had much problems with the belt slipping. My issue is it doesn't stretch like leather which makes the tension lever a bear to move sometimes. To make that easier I had to loosen the tension on the belt a bit which is why you may hear a small squeal when the lathe starts up on the higher speeds.
COLOR - HEAT TO A BLUE TEMPER & QUENCH IN MOTOR OIL = GORGEOUS .
Hola Halligan, excelentes videos, de verdad muy muy buenos, no me pierdo uno, Felicitaciones y Saludos desde Venezuela!!
+karlheinz10
Gracias!
I had to stop the video and take a good, long look at that milling attachment. Now I've got ideas running circles in my head. I've got an old, large lathe with a massive T-slotted carriage that might provide some stout support for something like that (if I can find collets that will fit that spindle and mills that will work well under 300 rpm, that is).
+diggerop I like how the jack turned out, by the way :-)
+diggerop ... another idea, out of the blue... make some more top ends that you can interchange with the bottoms, but instead of a flat or conical top, make a concave divot, profiled to take a screwy ball of appropriate size. Might help in supporting slightly off or odd shaped pieces.
+diggerop ...and *now* I see a similar suggestion was already made. Oh, well. I still think using a screwy ball for that is worth a try..
Having been around several fires attributed to oily rags my policy is- after use, take them outside & set them afire...
You Schmutzed her bud Schmutzed her up real good and it looks awesome man great machine good times 👍👍
Can you think of a way to convert your jack style to one that would have a floating head like a 'C' clamp? That way when you are tightening under pressure the object wouldn't 'walk' around with the jack's torque. I can't think of a way with simple shop tools (mill, lathe etc.) to make a receptacle that would capture the 'ball'. If you do I can also use it to repair some of my cheap 'C' clamps where the head has popped off the ball and flared the opening so it will no longer stay on when upside down. Nice project and useful. Always enjoy your videos. Doug
+Douglas Thompson There are several ways to go about that. I am not a fan of the ball topped head tho. It allows your part to be tilted to the axis of force. I like a flat area that it turns on.
I would be interested in both types. The ball for the C clamp repairs and flat for others. Doug
+Douglas Thompson For the flat type take a bolt and face it then drill a hole in the center deeper than the hex. drill and tap a hole thru the center of the hex to the hole in the center. Then turn a piece of round stock the size and width of the hex, with another dia. slightly smaller and shorter than the drilled hole in the bolt. Then add a groove in the same place as your drilled and tapped hole. Put together and use insert screw to keep top on.
Excellent work as always
Hi Mr. H. Just two thoughts
1. How about knurling the side of top of the screw.
2. Put a 1/4" shallow hole in the top of the screw to set a 5/16"
steel ball in and make a 1/2"X1/4" disc with a 1/4" hole
for a swivel head, Just a thought. >Joe
That's real nice bro... i really like ur lathe too...cool
wonderful job carried out
Greg
Great vid
Regards the primary drive belt , have you not considered using a poly belt they do them in narrow widths ,as used in washing machine drive belt , turn up a new motor pully tu suit and run it as you do for your other belt looks to be the same size as my Myford primay belt the big bore connie uses poly belts and a VFD drive to give 3000 rpm top wack
Stuart
I have not tried it. I will look into it though
You are the trooper, you go out into the freezing weather, just for your viewers. Someone buy this guy a cup of coffee (or tea). Thanks for sharing, great camera work from the new sky-hook, greatly improves the quality close-ups. Did not know about the Linseed Oil finish, looks to be more than adequate to prevent rust. Like the idea of a nut to hold the base, while turning the screw in or out of the base.
P.S., it's not the wife, so much as "*SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED!!!*" Only the married people will under stand. :-)
:-) Had my Dunkin Donuts Coffee out there with me at the BBQ.
Great camera work and sound.
Thanks!
Nice job. I've never seen the boiled linseed oil blackening before.
Neither have I. Found it when I was researching blackening techniques. I had never seen it done so figured I'd try it.
Looks pretty good. I'm going to be making some jacks soon. I think I'm going to Duracoat the base black and blue the rest. I'll give you a shout out on the video when I do.
heat it to faint red hot and quench it in the oil. it will be better result. cheers
I did not want to use oil. I'm not a machinist by the way. I'm an HVAC tech.
Technically, you *are* using oil -- boiled linseed oil... :)
I've tried heating a piece up to red hot and then dropping it a pot of deep fry oil and it seemed to work pretty good also. I think used motor oil works a bit better though, but if you don't want to be fooling with used motor oil, the fry oil seems to be ok also.
Halligan142, just a SMALL Correction, concerning the "Flammable Rags" You want to completely saturate that Rag with WATER, & THEN Store it under water ! ! ! I speak from the position of having actually Fought a "Flammable Rags" FIRE. as the Night Time Custodian of a Middle School, I opened our main Work Space: with the increase in OXYGEN from the open door, the Fire Had Everything it NEEDED: (In any order): HEAT/FUEL/OXYGEN !!! the Worker who only did half the "disposal job" thought the "Fire Proof" oily rags container was ENOUGH. He was my BOSS !!!! I soak the rags, put water well over them, and Then a BRICK to weight them down: SEEING ONE Spontaneous Combustion Fire was enough for me. Otherwise, a Great Video.
Another great video
try flipping the notched belt inside out so the flat is riding on the pulleys.
Awesome project I like it
super nice enjoyed this video,thanks
Nice job but these jacks have the same drawback as the commercial ones. they are to tall. made a few about 15 years ago that have worked quite well. The base is a 1 inch square block with a 1/2-13 tapped hole. For a screw, you can use any 1/2-13 bolt.
great video , I was wondering if you could tell me what size and make of belt you used for your drive belt? thx
It's an off the shelf automotive serpentine belt.
Hi. How in the world are you getting those surface finishes? Even on cross-slide manual cuts the finish is perfect. Perhaps its the wide radius of your square insert? I have all carbide inserts coated with fancy kryptonite and whatnot and still can't get as nice a finish. Congrats!
An HSS tool will normally give a superior finish to a carbide tool. Get yourself some HSS tools.
Yup. That's a HSS insert in that tool. Way less toolpressure than carbide inserts which helps a lot on the tapered cut.
Finally getting around to seeing this one. How has the finish held up? I hadn't heard of blackening with BLO, but I always have that around for woodworking projects, so I'm curious if it's as effective as gun blueing and such. Definitely cheaper. :)
It will come off if you scrape it with something sharp, but hasn't worn away from kicking around in my box or handling.
Thanks for the Black.
how did you position the cross slide and compound for the taper on the round stock at 19:45
Loosen the lock down screws and set the angle usng the protractor on the compound. Angle is arbitrary. I just picked something.
Nice work. Just curious about one thing. What do you plan to use them for without a mill? Always looking to learn how other people do things :)
Good for supporting oddball stuff on the drill press. Also good to use on the vice on the horizontal band saw when you want to cut a piece off a short length of stock. Keeps the jaws parallel.
***** Thanks! Learn something every day :)
Stationary Engineer vs Hvac Tech,.... im considering both as a potential career choice, can you please help me and let me know which is better to pursue as a career
depends on what you want. DO you want to go to the same place everyday or do you want to be on the road every day?
Nice one Greg! Couple of things; The tooth belts last longer because they dissipate the heat better but they are noisier. Proper belt depth in the pulley for standard belts actually have better torque but do run quieter. IMO the new belt compounds are actually better, but not cheap ones of course. Also curious why you didn't use a fine thread for the screw jacks. I would think that fine threads (3/8-24) would stand up better to pressure and give you ~.010 per 1/4 turn rather than a 64th for 16 threads? Thanks for the great build!
I wanted fine threads, but didn't have a fine thread extended tap to get me all the way through the base.
Nice Jack. Do you think the blackening finish is harder then paint? powder coating?
It seems to adhere a little better than regular paint would. I'd put the adhesion on par with the all surface enamel paint that's on my lathe. As far as toughness goes it's not as hard as powder coat. Where as paint may chip off this will only scratch, but it would take something metal grating against it to take the finish off.
I'm very new to my lathe, but I'm fairly familiar with carbon steels. Is there any reason to use 1045 if you don't harden and temper it?
1045 machines better than 1018 and are probably the 2 cheapest most common steels you'll be able to get easily. With 90% of your ome shop work unless you're making set up tooling or cutting tools you won't have to harden anything.
Halligan142 Awesome! I haven't tried 1045 yet but I did pick up a bunch of rear truck axles. So it'll be 4140 or 1045 or something close I hope.
You had to use a screw driver on that because Tom Lipton has all the hammers. LOL
All the cool ones at least
Where did you get the AR tool holder?
to try the fire cotton wool ball + super glue (ca glue)
I had to make a way more complex screw jack at school
No lube on the cutting tip?
How about using a serpentine automotive belt the grooves run long ways.
use crisco to cut threads. you will thank me. threads are too deep also. nice lil project.
next project is a tool makers vice. good luck
Hah ha! Who hasn't had to deliver a horse head at one point or another? Lol!
How about buying a cheapo HF C-clamp and salvaging the swivel end screw from it?
It's possible, but you'd have to tap the base for an acme thread and those taps aren't cheap.
Actually I just checked one I had. My Armstrong one is an acme thread and the hf one is a regular metric thread so yes you could use it.
Nice weather.
Three threaded sections and a swivel top
thanks for the video.
cool vid man, where you from? i recognize the accent. im from plymouth
20 min North of Boston
He's only taking like 20 thousandths at a time that would take forever
Liked the opening ..... Such a Bloke thing. The fairer sex would have cleaned the whole window and then put on the sticker. We lads just clean the bit we need and leave the rest! Class.
I Have the same lathe. Has no power.
Don’t know why you are apologizing about having the finest brand truck you can own.
center drills arent countersinks wrong angle
+Cale King
that depends on what angle you want your countersink.
90 an 82 are the commons
Hey. I just wanted to say thanks for the inspiration. I'm a newbie at machining, so I thought this would be a good practice project for me before I start making metal parts for my airplane under construction. Here is my video: ruclips.net/video/RohdyJVXx2w/видео.html
No, chevy's are just lousy vehicles.