Thank you ever so much for this video. I entered your channel because of the Peak Dale loom and have spent a while looking at your latest videos. Until now I have worked on a homemade loom and used the very poor quality beads I can find in my area - the frustration of irregular work has me packing up and leaving a project half done and on the loom for weeks on end. I had never heard of Toho beads. I will investigate how I can get them (and Miyukis) shipped to Spain without spending more money on P&H (and Customs!) then on the beads themselves. Again, thank you very much for all this information. It is much appreciated.
Thank you so much for your feedback. When I first started with beadwork, I too used poor quality beads, and was very disappointed with the results. I then discovered through my local bead workers guild and after a couple of professional lessons, that there are all sorts of beads out there, ready to be discovered. And with good beads, almost anything is possible. Thank you so much, and please do keep watching. If there is anything you want to know more about, just let me know.
Wow...I really appreciate the time and effort you put into your analysis of these products, it really puts them in perspective...maybe as more bead artists use these Aiko beads they will come down in price...Again thank You
Hi there, I am driven by curiosity! And I like to know about things and share some of what I learn. And it is all about the beads. They all have their place, and some are better for some things than others. And that is particularly important if you do large woven pieces. All the beads have some variation, so they fall within a spectrum of range, so for instance if you get one set of beads at the lower spectrum of a size and another packet of beads that happen to sit at the higher end of the size range and then try putting those together, you can spot slight mismatches - I have tried this!!! And you can get a wrinkle even with the most perfect of beads. It is less to do with manufacturing and more to do with the transport and movement - you when contents settle - the largest sizes end up on the top and smallest go to the bottom. The important thing is to know your beads and what you are going to use them for and test them if it's going to be a big piece of work. Others with a less tight size range can be more tolerant of other beads. It sounds counter intuitive, and I am talking about widths of +20 beads and rows of +20 beads. Enjoy your beading
Thank you for your very precise description of the beads and how they size up next to each other. I concur, the Aiko's are a better bead and I'm going to put them to the test as well. Thank you for being very informative, I have subscribed to your channel.
Thank you for subscribing.The choice of bead with the task at hand is very important. It is well worth testing the beads depending on what you want to do. I have used 'the most perfect beads' in large blocks of different colours, and where they butt up against each they didn't match in some cases! The reason for this is all beads have SOME variation, they fall within a spectrum of a size range, i.e., plus or minus a little bit. And my potential conclusion is that when the beads are transported, contents settle - the largest sizes end up on the top and smallest go to the bottom. So you can get caught out with beads all within the specified size tolerance, but some at the top end and some at the bottom end, and when you put them together you get a mismatch, which results in a wrinkle. The only solution is to try a slightly different colour and go again. Other beads with a less tight size range can be more tolerant I have found. It sounds counter intuitive, and I am of course talking about widths of +20 beads and rows of +20 beads. This is where it shows up, and not at all of course if you are using patterns rather than block of colour. Happy beading!
This is such a excellent explication. Very complete and clear . Thank u so much
I am glad you enjoyed it and thank you for your feedback, do like, share and follow. Stay tuned. Lucy
THANK YOU!!!💖💖💖💖💖 I am OCD about my beads. Just learning of Aikos, and I'll ALSO be making the switch accordingly!💖
Hi, thank you for the comment. Have fun with the Aikos. Stay tuned. Lucy
@@Sciart WILL DO!!😁
Fun informative video, thank you! Only wish you showed a close-up with all 3 of the samples seen together fully...
Yes, I will try that next time - these days I have a new camera!!!
Amazing video. Thank you so much for your effort!
Thank you, I am very pleased that you have enjoyed it. Keep watching and if you have any questions or have a request then do let me know.
Thank you so much for the analysis!
I am glad it was helpful. I enjoy taking a closer look at things. Keep watching.
Thank you ever so much for this video. I entered your channel because of the Peak Dale loom and have spent a while looking at your latest videos.
Until now I have worked on a homemade loom and used the very poor quality beads I can find in my area - the frustration of irregular work has me packing up and leaving a project half done and on the loom for weeks on end.
I had never heard of Toho beads. I will investigate how I can get them (and Miyukis) shipped to Spain without spending more money on P&H (and Customs!) then on the beads themselves.
Again, thank you very much for all this information. It is much appreciated.
Thank you so much for your feedback. When I first started with beadwork, I too used poor quality beads, and was very disappointed with the results. I then discovered through my local bead workers guild and after a couple of professional lessons, that there are all sorts of beads out there, ready to be discovered. And with good beads, almost anything is possible. Thank you so much, and please do keep watching. If there is anything you want to know more about, just let me know.
Wow...I really appreciate the time and effort you put into your analysis of these products, it really puts them in perspective...maybe as more bead artists use these Aiko beads they will come down in price...Again thank You
Hi there, I am driven by curiosity! And I like to know about things and share some of what I learn. And it is all about the beads. They all have their place, and some are better for some things than others. And that is particularly important if you do large woven pieces. All the beads have some variation, so they fall within a spectrum of range, so for instance if you get one set of beads at the lower spectrum of a size and another packet of beads that happen to sit at the higher end of the size range and then try putting those together, you can spot slight mismatches - I have tried this!!! And you can get a wrinkle even with the most perfect of beads. It is less to do with manufacturing and more to do with the transport and movement - you when contents settle - the largest sizes end up on the top and smallest go to the bottom. The important thing is to know your beads and what you are going to use them for and test them if it's going to be a big piece of work. Others with a less tight size range can be more tolerant of other beads. It sounds counter intuitive, and I am talking about widths of +20 beads and rows of +20 beads. Enjoy your beading
Thank you for your very precise description of the beads and how they size up next to each other. I concur, the Aiko's are a better bead and I'm going to put them to the test as well. Thank you for being very informative, I have subscribed to your channel.
Thank you for subscribing.The choice of bead with the task at hand is very important. It is well worth testing the beads depending on what you want to do. I have used 'the most perfect beads' in large blocks of different colours, and where they butt up against each they didn't match in some cases! The reason for this is all beads have SOME variation, they fall within a spectrum of a size range, i.e., plus or minus a little bit. And my potential conclusion is that when the beads are transported, contents settle - the largest sizes end up on the top and smallest go to the bottom. So you can get caught out with beads all within the specified size tolerance, but some at the top end and some at the bottom end, and when you put them together you get a mismatch, which results in a wrinkle. The only solution is to try a slightly different colour and go again. Other beads with a less tight size range can be more tolerant I have found. It sounds counter intuitive, and I am of course talking about widths of +20 beads and rows of +20 beads. This is where it shows up, and not at all of course if you are using patterns rather than block of colour. Happy beading!