The middle pin is always the ground for every Microsoft made controller. The triggers are Potentiometer Switches this allows the triggers to be pressure sensitive by having two leads and a common ground. The top and bottom pins are positive while the middle is the common ground.
I'm almost 100% positive that's the issue. Just double check your solder. If you have an issue soldering to small components use masking tape to cover up all the points around the point you're soldering to. It helps a lot. :)
Love that. half way though "Soldering Irons FUCKING HURT" Considering I burned myself a little less than 4 hours ago I was nodding a bit at that remark.
Yeah. It happened at a really bad time too. I though i broke my controller and somehow manage to fix the impossible and as i celebrated I through my hand forward and caught the tip of the Iron. Bit of a buzz kill that was. Not to mention the small bits of solder that were stuck in my burn.
Brilliant video. Just made mine earlier and spent about 2 hours trying to get used to it. still haven't found which way to use my new B button (for knife our crouch), but it ask works perfect and I only had to buy the buttons. Scuff would go bust if everyone knew how to do this. Thanks dude
Yes you can put as many or as few buttons as you want, you don't have to put the top ones I just recommend it. And you can make the buttons anything that you want. Also I fixed the top link, thanks for pointing that out.
thanks for replying bud, i made one yesterday and like you said the A button sticks now, used tape instead of glue it seemed to work ok, having another attempt today hopefully get it spot on this time. cheers
Sounds like you have multiple leads touching. Just double or triple check your soldering and make sure no two points are touching, also check your wire for exposed areas. And test the controller before reassembling it. Let me know how it goes.
Im not even going to try that as there is way too much equipment needed :P But I still watched the whole video as it was genuinely interesting how it worked and was so well explained greattutorial.
great video my man! most interested in the trigger stops, your version is way better than the others i have seen that just put a dab of hot blue on the trigger. cheers!
hah, wish I had seen this prior to doing the work, ran the left wire all the way across the controller. Made it a little tough to get it back together. However everything works perfectly except I need to train myself to use them. I like that I can jump and reload without ever taking my thumb off the aim stick. Thanks for the excellent walkthrough, this was my first ever attempt at soldering and it worked first time.
Sounds like its touching the top or bottom trigger pin. Double check your soldering. It might not look like its touching but there is a high likelihood it is.
enthenet cord is a good canidate to use for wire. its very thin and will hold its form very well. thank for the video. im definately making me one. and using the pen as a paddle is genious
In that case, the green pads are still carbon pads. You just have a newer model. I'm not sure which side you'll have to solder to, so just play around with it.
I wasn't making fun or anything...I was really complimenting you as that's probably the most random ruler that I'd ever expect to see on a RUclips video. Not everybody has one of those.
It's a standard wirless Xbox controller. I'm pretty sure I got it with the Slim model of the Xbox. Also, I noticed the little gold lines on the buttons only go in one direction: horizontal.
Hey I looked at a tutorial that soldered both wires to the contact areas on the A/B/Y/X buttons, sadly it didn't work, but thanks to your video it did man! Thanks! Had a bit of trouble with the one of the panels not being scratched off enough but in the end i went with your style =]]
Thank you very much! So, in theory, soldering to the top of the button and to the ground on the trigger pins should work. I must have connections elsewhere on the controller...
Cause I've tried a couple different combinations for each lead of the switch and the best results I've gotten with using the trigger pins is the right switch causing a strange combination of reload crouch and firing the weapon
Did you watch the video? It teaches you how to replicate every feature of the Scuf (Including additional A and B buttons) along with buttons for X and Y. And yes the original buttons maintain their functionality.
Hey i put the paddles on and did all the soldering and such and it works fine asides from the fact that I cant be holding the shoot button and go prone / crouch or jump at the same time any clue why this would happen? could it be cause i used a 4 prong push button instead of 2 or do you think something is touching that shouldnt be?
Thanks for the TUT man! That's exactly what I'm going to do when I get a chance. But what size screws did you use to attach the paddles to the controller? I'm just worried about the screws being too long and possibly damaging the board. Thanks again man!
Unfortunately this is true. They work well for Gears of War as well, and Halo as long as you don't plan on using the plasma pistol or driving a Ghost. But that is about it unfortunately. They are AMAZING for CoD though, and they are easy to remove and put back .
I think i found my mistake, i soldered 1 end of the wire from A to the tac switch and the other wire from the tac switch to the trigger point. But with B i soldered the wire from the tac switch to the middle trigger point on the LEFT side ( there is a second pair of three points on the left side of your controller)
I have everything soldered up, but the left paddle isnt working at all and for some reason the right paddle is mapped to right trigger, Thanks for all the help (Right trigger is also still working)
So how exactly do you do the 3 other buttons? Solder one wire to the silver and one wire to the middle thing for every one of them? Surely it will get crammed with 4 of them there
i have my controller open and it is clear that no points are touching. The paddle works when i am not shooting, but when i am, i cant jump. My "A" button works fine when i am shooting though
I also herd if u don't have that torx security driver u can snap the little peg off I have done it and it works pretty well it's barbaric but u gotta do what u gotta do
I've tried that with both a 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm tact switch and I just can't make it work right. I'm hoping that I'll be able to do something like this on next gen controllers, but the way that the trigger mechanism works it just gets in the way.
You should be able to get all the tools you need for under $40 if you do some shopping around. I'm sure you know someone that has the necessary tools though.
Need help on the soldering of the buttons to where ever they are meant to be soldered to. The DIY stuff is the easy part. Could you help me at all with the last section of the video dude? From where you say just do this to the other 3 buttons. Would appreciate it
Hey my friend you really explained everything perfectly. Just want to know if is there a way to do a conection to a tactical button that shot and drop at the same time., instead to press ing trigger and B. thanks
I actually tried Popsicle sticks at first but I wasn't a fan of the texture. On my Xbox One build I used The ends of plastic spoons and they work perfectly. And the BluTack is a GREAT idea. Never thought of that. :)
Holy crap dude I dont know if you remeber me but I am Erxh from xbox. Me and you would always get in Woodys games so you added me to make it easier for us to join. Eventually one of us deleted the other because we never played.
My B button works but my A button keeps shitting out, it will work, Ill put my controller back together and then it will stop working. Any suggestions?
The fact that you knew what that was has made my day 20x better! haha
Thanks for the tutorial. I bought a Scuf One, but I don't want to shell out money for my 360 controller. I'll give this a try in a few days.
i wasnt going to take soldering in school, but this made me change my mind, i want a scuff controller.
The middle pin is always the ground for every Microsoft made controller. The triggers are Potentiometer Switches this allows the triggers to be pressure sensitive by having two leads and a common ground. The top and bottom pins are positive while the middle is the common ground.
I'm almost 100% positive that's the issue. Just double check your solder. If you have an issue soldering to small components use masking tape to cover up all the points around the point you're soldering to. It helps a lot. :)
Love that. half way though "Soldering Irons FUCKING HURT" Considering I burned myself a little less than 4 hours ago I was nodding a bit at that remark.
I have a couple of scars from the iron. Each time I look at them I cringe thinking back to how bad they hurt. lol.
Yeah. It happened at a really bad time too. I though i broke my controller and somehow manage to fix the impossible and as i celebrated I through my hand forward and caught the tip of the Iron. Bit of a buzz kill that was. Not to mention the small bits of solder that were stuck in my burn.
***** smokie the bear ruler
sai what now???
it was kinda unexpected yah know.. its all chill and then BAM SOLDERING IRONS F$%^^#&* HURT LOLOLOL
JUST what I've been looking for, wish I had of found this follow up when it was first upped. cheers man great work
This video was honestly the best help, made myself and my mrs controllers this way and they work perfectly thank you so much :)
Brilliant video. Just made mine earlier and spent about 2 hours trying to get used to it. still haven't found which way to use my new B button (for knife our crouch), but it ask works perfect and I only had to buy the buttons. Scuff would go bust if everyone knew how to do this. Thanks dude
Yes top of the button to the middle trigger pin. Any ground on the controller will also work, I just find the trigger pins to be easiest to access.
Yes you can put as many or as few buttons as you want, you don't have to put the top ones I just recommend it. And you can make the buttons anything that you want. Also I fixed the top link, thanks for pointing that out.
thanks for replying bud, i made one yesterday and like you said the A button sticks now, used tape instead of glue it seemed to work ok, having another attempt today hopefully get it spot on this time. cheers
hey ethan. scuf actually uses 6x6x6 mm tact switches. they are a little shorter, but you can't get them at radio shack. you can get them at amazon.
this video was very helpful and now i know all the parts i need and what buttons!
thank you
Sounds like you have multiple leads touching. Just double or triple check your soldering and make sure no two points are touching, also check your wire for exposed areas. And test the controller before reassembling it. Let me know how it goes.
Im not even going to try that as there is way too much equipment needed :P But I still watched the whole video as it was genuinely interesting how it worked and was so well explained greattutorial.
great video my man! most interested in the trigger stops, your version is way better than the others i have seen that just put a dab of hot blue on the trigger. cheers!
Glad I could help and thank you for the support. :)
I used your guide last week to much success ! Thanks
Just a reminder you can also solder to both the A button carbon contact point is you scrap them off
Ok thanks! Really enjoyed this tutorial, hope to see more like this in the future.
i resoldered and now it works perfect.
Thanks dude :)
The best tutorial I have seen
hah, wish I had seen this prior to doing the work, ran the left wire all the way across the controller. Made it a little tough to get it back together. However everything works perfectly except I need to train myself to use them. I like that I can jump and reload without ever taking my thumb off the aim stick. Thanks for the excellent walkthrough, this was my first ever attempt at soldering and it worked first time.
Sounds like its touching the top or bottom trigger pin. Double check your soldering. It might not look like its touching but there is a high likelihood it is.
Thanks for pointing that out. Gotta love the Typos.
enthenet cord is a good canidate to use for wire. its very thin and will hold its form very well. thank for the video. im definately making me one. and using the pen as a paddle is genious
One side of the button contacts on all buttons, "A" and "Y" go to the right middle trigger pin while "B" and "X" go to the left hand.
In that case, the green pads are still carbon pads. You just have a newer model. I'm not sure which side you'll have to solder to, so just play around with it.
hey man loved your video on the scuff controller. thanks for all the wonderful walk through an excellent job. Great video man.
Glad you enjoyed the video. :)
There were so many times where I thought that you were going to drill your fingers haha
It wouldn't be the first time thats happened. Lol.
I wasn't making fun or anything...I was really complimenting you as that's probably the most random ruler that I'd ever expect to see on a RUclips video. Not everybody has one of those.
It's a standard wirless Xbox controller. I'm pretty sure I got it with the Slim model of the Xbox. Also, I noticed the little gold lines on the buttons only go in one direction: horizontal.
yea, got some 30 gauge, supposed to be here tomarrow in the mail, thanks for the feedback though mate. :)
I LOVE it, and Razer totally stole my idea with the Sabertooth haha.
Hey I looked at a tutorial that soldered both wires to the contact areas on the A/B/Y/X buttons, sadly it didn't work, but thanks to your video it did man! Thanks!
Had a bit of trouble with the one of the panels not being scratched off enough but
in the end i went with your style =]]
Thank you very much! So, in theory, soldering to the top of the button and to the ground on the trigger pins should work. I must have connections elsewhere on the controller...
This guy is a genius
Nice video, if I ever need to do this, this is where ill go!
Nice X and Y location! I had not thought about that...
Cause I've tried a couple different combinations for each lead of the switch and the best results I've gotten with using the trigger pins is the right switch causing a strange combination of reload crouch and firing the weapon
Essentially. You'll have to play around a little to find the leads and everything.
The actual buttons are stiff, it makes it less cluttered and there is less room for failure. It just works better in my opinion.
Best tutorial ever!!! Great job!
Same rules should apply, I'm planning on making a day 1 Scuf build for the Xbox One so hopefully It won't take me long and I'll get it uploaded. :)
Awesome Smokey the Bear ruler!!!
ok thanks man!, skipped this part :3
respect for replying all of my dumb questions :$
very clear and informative, you sir have gained a like and a sub, good job.
For a second I was like, "What the fuck is a sharipe?" I soon realized you meant sharpie.
Did you watch the video? It teaches you how to replicate every feature of the Scuf (Including additional A and B buttons) along with buttons for X and Y. And yes the original buttons maintain their functionality.
Hey i put the paddles on and did all the soldering and such and it works fine asides from the fact that I cant be holding the shoot button and go prone / crouch or jump at the same time any clue why this would happen? could it be cause i used a 4 prong push button instead of 2 or do you think something is touching that shouldnt be?
Okay man, i try it tomorrow.
going to buy all those things today :)
I used three different types of wire on my controller, it really doesn't matter as long as it fits.
i decided just to solder both wires to the "a" button. it is a little squishy but it works well
Can I use the RB/LB or Connect switches/buttons instead of getting those? I only want to make one for A (jump)
Unfortunately they would be too short. Anything smaller than 9mm is too short, but I've never been able to find 9mm switches thats why I use 9.5 mm.
If you solder to both sides of the button it will work but the original button will stick and be hard to press. So I like my way better. :)
Yes. The switch I listed for the project is a 4 pin.
And btw you are amazing because you always reply
The black edges are from RUclipss "Shaky Cam Fix" effect, as you can see... it doesn't fix much of anything, just makes it stupidly shaky.
1. What specific wire are you using? 2. When soldering the wires to the board where do you solder b,x, or y to?
thank you man, i mean, for real, real thanks i just saved 120 bucks, i left a like and fav.
Absolutely. Glad I could help. :)
Solder the "B" ground to the left middle trigger pin and the "A" ground to the right middle trigger pin.
if you use a small flathead you can get the screws out tol
Thanks for the TUT man! That's exactly what I'm going to do when I get a chance. But what size screws did you use to attach the paddles to the controller? I'm just worried about the screws being too long and possibly damaging the board. Thanks again man!
no, but the scuf has the wires going to a and b and then the other two wires go to the same place, maybe its like a ground or something
I guess that would be the B ground? Not sure where that one is going. And I'm assuming that the B button goes to the top one on be as well?
Unfortunately this is true. They work well for Gears of War as well, and Halo as long as you don't plan on using the plasma pistol or driving a Ghost. But that is about it unfortunately. They are AMAZING for CoD though, and they are easy to remove and put back .
Fixed it, again thanks for your help. :)
The reason I don't do that is because it makes the original buttons difficult to press if you aren't careful.
I should also mention that the controller works as intend with the buttons remapped for an hour or so the loses functionality
I think i found my mistake, i soldered 1 end of the wire from A to the tac switch and the other wire from the tac switch to the trigger point. But with B i soldered the wire from the tac switch to the middle trigger point on the LEFT side ( there is a second pair of three points on the left side of your controller)
Would have been nice to see the finished result in action
Glad I could help man, There will definitely be more. If you haven't already, a subscription is really appreciated. :)
(sorry, been away from my computer) we're all good dude! Hit me up if you ever find yourself in need of more Smokey swag!
Glad you enjoyed. :)
I have everything soldered up, but the left paddle isnt working at all and for some reason the right paddle is mapped to right trigger, Thanks for all the help
(Right trigger is also still working)
...>_> you are a genius...I'm definitely doing this xD Thanks for the great tut!
u r good at explaining this could u do one for a ps3 controller too if u dont have one already?
So how exactly do you do the 3 other buttons? Solder one wire to the silver and one wire to the middle thing for every one of them? Surely it will get crammed with 4 of them there
i have my controller open and it is clear that no points are touching. The paddle works when i am not shooting, but when i am, i cant jump.
My "A" button works fine when i am shooting though
Glad it helped you man. :)
I also herd if u don't have that torx security driver u can snap the little peg off I have done it and it works pretty well it's barbaric but u gotta do what u gotta do
This happens when there is too much Solder on the pads. Try to desolder and resolder it back as small as possible.
it takes talent to do this
+william price Talent to figure it out maybe, but not really talent to do it. Just very basic knowledge.
I'm from the uk lol so some of the terms you're using might be unheard of for me. I've never hearÐ of gauges of a wire :P
I've tried that with both a 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm tact switch and I just can't make it work right. I'm hoping that I'll be able to do something like this on next gen controllers, but the way that the trigger mechanism works it just gets in the way.
You should be able to get all the tools you need for under $40 if you do some shopping around. I'm sure you know someone that has the necessary tools though.
Thank you for the tutorial and response
I have soldered directly to the trace and grounded the button as an alternative and my problem with the controller still firing itself still occurs
can you add in the description possibly the screw sizes you used for the paddles
Need help on the soldering of the buttons to where ever they are meant to be soldered to. The DIY stuff is the easy part. Could you help me at all with the last section of the video dude? From where you say just do this to the other 3 buttons.
Would appreciate it
Hey my friend you really explained everything perfectly. Just want to know if is there a way to do a conection to a tactical button that shot and drop at the same time., instead to press ing trigger and B. thanks
That wire is way to thick. If you try to press the regular A button it wont feel normal because the wire/solder is blocking it. I used 30 gauge wire.
if you dont have glue use bluetack works perfict and for paddle use a ice pop stick works very well
I actually tried Popsicle sticks at first but I wasn't a fan of the texture. On my Xbox One build I used The ends of plastic spoons and they work perfectly. And the BluTack is a GREAT idea. Never thought of that. :)
***** did you use copper wire or tin wire
Copper. Always use copper.
Haha, I have no idea where that thing came from. I just need a ruler and that was the first one I found.
Awesome vid! Gonna try it this weekend! Liked and sub
Holy crap dude I dont know if you remeber me but I am Erxh from xbox. Me and you would always get in Woodys games so you added me to make it easier for us to join. Eventually one of us deleted the other because we never played.
My B button works but my A button keeps shitting out, it will work, Ill put my controller back together and then it will stop working. Any suggestions?
Brendan Pearson this is probably late but try putting electrical tape over it