Britain's Biggest Roof Climb (100m, 3 Pitches)
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- A horizontal journey to establish Britain's biggest roof climb. The route in its entirety is around 100m and is broken down into 3 pitches.
This route requires squeezing, chimneys, cracks and big British sea cliff adventure. 100m and 3 pitches of
In this video Pete tries to climb his new project over a number of sessions, with a few hiccups along the way.
Clip credit:
Boris Johnson clip - • Boris Johnson announce...
Music Credit:
Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommon...
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
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@@oscarmontano1421 prototypes. We have another run of prototyping to do before they are released though. They aren't finished yet
@@WideBoyz Well they look pretty good so far. I'm psyched for when you guys start selling. Never used anything but tape before but those look really good.
@@tristanmayfield4851 Yep they are nice so far, just some final tweaks to make them really nice :) good to have a mixture of both tape and cack gloves in your kit!
I was wondering whether mid-second pitch Harry and Dumbledore would teleport in, looking for a horcrux.....
I think Calum took the snitch home
unfortunately just the regular kind of crux in this sea cave.
"Pete is doing that thing again where he is climbing upside down"
love it
@@WideBoyz
Pete's overhanging crack technique always reminds me of a sloth.
That's not an insult - the buggers are slow, graceful and deliberate in their movements, climbing with the minimum of energy and fingers of steel.
Get Boris on it.
Next sesh 👍😎
Get him into the cellar for a sesh and just keep him there forever please...
@@ringzer get him in a Wide Pony, he'd love it
Got me at "How are conditions today? Like quite shit actually."
Session 1 - prime
Session 2 - ok
Session 3 - bit shit...
This looks absolutely amazing! Just found this video in recommendations and already hooked on this and other videos of you guys, really good atmosphere going on! (really makes me miss NZ though where I was for an internship and discovered the beauty of rock climbing... You will be missed trad gear... One day I will be climbing rock again!)
Cool thanks for watching, glad you have enjoyed the vids 😀
got any of those crack climbing videos coming up? that's like my fav stuff, like the real good stuff
@@meldepinda cellar crack climbing video with Tom, Pete and Mari this Sunday 💪
Yeahhh nice looking forward to it! (love the cellar stuff btw, reminds me of what I have seen near Arapiles what people have for gyms at home)
@@meldepinda you seen more crack cellars in Aus?! Nice 😎
The coloring of that rock is beautiful!
Yes very unique type of rock!
This is the 3rd video I'm watching in a row. Subscribed. How can you even move with that heavy rack?! 🤣 I'll simply stay with bouldering and admire you guys from below 🙃👍✌.
Haha brill, thanks for watching 🙂
Desperate moving with that weight of rack on, i need to be more selective next time
"From this evening I must give the British people a very simple instruction. You must smash it out."
imagine if he just came out with that instead!! all carnage would break loose!
Not from Britain, but I don't quite see the harm of people climbing in the middle of nowhere. But I guess they are from different households and stuff so it kinda makes sense...
@@Jokl92 if you hurt yourself (and survive), you need medical treatment.
@@chaosengine4597 well, good point :D
That cave looks crazy with the red in the rocks 😮
yeh its a pretty mad cave. surely there are some more of these around the UK though! maybe...
just need to go hunting
What a mish! Good on ya Pete!
The mish will continue, I just have too wait it out until there are no covid bans, an then no sea cliff birds bans!!
@@WideBoyz You'll have to change your moniker from Wide Boyz to Ban Boyz....
Tremendous. Look forward to volume 2.
Bird bans and of course corona will put this back to låter in the year now. But I'm looking forward to it as well,when it's possible 🙂
I feel sorry for calum. Was opting for sun and tapas and got the horcruxes. What a treat! 😄
6:03 Cams "ideally no more than 50 cm apart" ha ha ha ha ha ha X'D
I am literally laughing out loud but it does sound like crying x')
haha, 'yes thats more like aiding calum'
Great epic Pete, good luck with the endpoint!
thanks. I'll get there again when all types of restrictions have been lifted
Big g was quoting Yamamoto with the terrible resolve line. Cool guy
Here you are practicing paddle hands in the cellar when you really need your off-width skills back.
Too right, it's been a while...I'm rusty
How do you rappel down on a trad route when you bail? Do you leave 2 pieces on top or are there anchors in place? And do you have backup pieces of gear to jumar up?
They left gear and fixed a line to it. No ones going to find that route by accident and mess about.
@@alexanderstack5757 my fear is not there someone would mess with the gear but more that it would come loose over time without the friends being under tension.
first time we left some gear and just abbed off and pulled the ropes. second time we re climbed the first two pitches and then at the end of the day left a fixed line cos I knew I'd be coming back the following week.
so essentially we left the anchors in. When leaving an anchor its gernally best to leave wires or hexes which is what we did, purely becuase there is less chance of them moving, plus its a cheaper bit of kit to leave behind. Also leaving cams by a sea cliff isn't a good idea, becuase the springs seize up and then it all just gets really shitty
nice sneak preview of the wide boyz crack gloves:) they're looking good
yep. more sneak previews in some up and coming cellar videos as well ;)
still more stuff to do with them though yet. but they are getting there
Well I can add vertigo to my list of new experiences today, ta.
no probs, haha
With a crack in that location Gollum might come out and snake your project.
might find me some cunning beta
boris is worried you don't have enough 6's. that's sweet.
Well, when ya free it guess I’ll have to take a trip to Britain
Yep it's a wiggling classic. Get ye most powerful squirm on 💪
Did Voldemort find a hiding place for his hourcrux while roofclimbing, or find a sweet crackproject hiding his hourcrux?
that applause track is da bomb ; )
best one i've found for sure.
Get Magnus on it!
Haha get Magnus on it all!!
Lol, I think Magnus would have an awful time on this. Would be cool to see him on an easier crack maybe, get him to practice a bit more.
@@danieljensen2626 He'd be totally fine, we'll have to get him practicing head jamming next time we see him though
@@WideBoyz put in the odd butt jamming and not to forget the important nose jamming!
@@chaosengine4597 yet, t' nose nd arse cheek were funny.
Very good video lads
thanks
That’s probably what my rack weighs for a moderate less than vertical trad climb
haha!!
Craig Luebben taught me on pitches where you need to carry a heavy rack. Leave half the rack with a trail rope attached. Climb half the pitch, place a good piece above you and then pull up the second half of the rack. Gear sling is helpful. Just an idea. I cant touch any at this grade but have employed on easier pitches.
yep we've done this before, its a very good tactic. A little tricky on this one because the sea is under neath, but its defo still possible to trail a tag line and get the belayer to attach some extras on. the crux is always having somewhere comoftable enough to actually pull it up from!!
@@WideBoyz Could not agree more. Trickiest part for sure. Keep up the good work.
could you claim a first ascent doing that though? would want a century crack mark 2. 5 months on has this been done yet?
Just seen you sent this recently Pete. Nice one! Will there be a video?
The shopping bag of my dreams
the bag itself...? or whats in it...?
Can’t wait for more!
:)
Says a lot about your friends that you can have a whip around and collect 9 size 6 cams and a load of 5s when most normal people have only seen 6s in the shops or on screen.
even I was surpirsed by this... that I actually found so many in such a short space of time. all from family and close friends!!
Did you guys find voldemort's horcrux or was this whole thing a big waste of time?
Mad as toast
So where is this? I wondered at first if it was Staffa Island but the rock type doesn't look right.
Thought it was yellow walls type area at first, Looks like the shaley shite you get towards trearddur or Dafarch way.
I'll let you all keep guessing
Definitely Porth Dafarch.
You're really close don't give up cheers in Colorado.
yep it'll go. just have to wait for certain restrictions to be lifted
Scariest climbing, in order (Number 3 Will Surprise You :)
1 Free Solo (what are you doing?)
2 Sketchy Aid (hooks/beaks/rrps, enough said)
3 Seconding a traverse (you'll never hate whoever lead as much as now)
4 Trad Lead Solo (doesn't feel as scary as it should)
5 Trad Lead (climbing at it's purest, while still having a (sometimes marginal) protection system
6 Sport Lead/Easy Aid
HIghball boulders, deep water solos, ice/mixed could all be blended in, but the hilarity of this, for me, is that one of the scariest things you can do climbing is seconding a pitch. So counter-intuitive, but 100% true.
I've definitely been more scared seconding traverses and aid climbing than Free Soloing. I've never really been massively scared free soloing, I guess you always try and keep it well within your margins!
you forgot laying in your bed at the end. not too scary, but it should be on the list.
Why is it so scary seconding a traverse?
@@karimchahine4883 because it's the same for the second as the leader. The rope goes sideways and not up and down, meaning a fall for either lead or second would both take the same swing
@@WideBoyz Oh yeah sure, I thought there was some sneaky trad danger for seconding a traverse that I, a normie sport climber, didn't know of, thanks!
Brilliant stuff! Is this the full cave underneath Fishura?
No it isn't
@@WideBoyz actually looking at the book it's this is more fangy on the lip. Gotta be a similar area tho. Or maybe Penlas / Blacksmith with The Range in the background hmmm.
Is there a video of the send?
When he comes clean and tells us where it is I think we should swipe the route off him. I've got a #6 and confidently leading vdiff. Anyone fancy teaming up?
Sounds like you're up for following next time 👍
@@WideBoyz With a scaffold tower yes!
10kg rack? Pah, when I used to climb Cloggy, we used to lick t' rock.
Are they Wide Boyz crack gloves i see?
Yes wide Boyz prototypes crack gloves 👍 still a few changes to make then they're good to go
Get in the sea!
I'm saving that for when I have to bail on high tide
Was Tom too busy or too smart for this one?
to busy running around the Lake District when I started this project, so our time tables never lined up
Standard Windgather rack, that.
I like
This looks like a job for Bobr or Orel...
Edit: this made me feel dizzy.
Where is this?
Why can Michael Jordan climb in thin air? Because he can space jam.
Just say the cave is your home
Should have just emegrated to the cave and set up a permenant bivi during the lock down periods
Can we get an update Pete?
www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/09/massive_new_gogarth_e8_roof_crack_by_pete_whittaker_-_bar_wars-73154
and the question remains: WHY
and the answer is and always has been: BECAUSE
Or why not ?
cos its a good laugh and struggle :)
How do your gear loops survive
To be honest they often don't...
Might this be considered a Bomb•Bay Chimney?
some parts potentially i guess
whats conditions like..... "like quite shit'
F*ck staying at home!
10 kg rack ? How does it convert in £ ?
22lbs...
@@joolsgrommers1466 😂
Please accept the metric system! 😂🙏
Pete you look like Macron!
9:22
Put some pegs in so next visit after that you carry less cams ?
They'll just rust out over time. Unless you take them in and out i guess.. I'm psyched for the massive racking tho
Guess some climbing isn't for the poor!! How much for all that gear. Enjoyed the vid though
expensive! But luckily being a sponsored climber I got my large cams for free! The remaining 10 large cams I borrowed from 5 other people! community effort...
@@WideBoyz does that mean it'll be a community send once you have sent it? I'm sure that qualifies... Just like down at the wall, when everyone is struggling on a problem and you send your best at it and claim the team top for everyone..? That's legitimate right?
What poor excuse did the Big G give for not following?
he'd come for a good time!
To me it looks quite disorientating, trying to follow we're you're going.
yes the roof kind of goes up and down. some bits have aside wall, some bits don't. plus you have to do some down climbing in places. all very random, but it makes sense when you're on it
This is so sad, Alexa play Despacito...
So this is trad climbing? seems more work setting up the gear than doing the route 😂
Has this been climbed by anyone yet?
Yes Pete climbed it couple of years ago
@@WideBoyz beast!
🦎🦎⛰️ 🤔🤔🤔
Better stay home so you don’t give anyone a bug with a 99.9% survival rate 😐
In the UK the case fatality rate is 4% currently.