Nice video. In reality this is exceptionally difficult. A loaded rope from a crevasse fall is much more severe and this process becomes almost unworkable. I do recommend that people actually try this, but have the "victim" actually pull at 100 lb minimum and see how it goes. It is very enlightening indeed and makes one question the wisdom of 2 person glacier travel, especially in places like Alaska.
ive practiced with an actual person, i get big time cramp in my hips verrrrrry quick! 100% a good idea and a must to practice properly, its so much harder than one would expect
Very quick transfer, for sure. I've always gone with a friction hitch attached with a Munter-mule in order to have the releasable option. How often this would be handy is certainly debatable but the hard knot issue remains a topic of discussion worth considering. Thanks for taking the time to produce these vids. Good stuff and keeps us thinking.
Excellent video series. It's good to note that this professional guide does NOT use any sort of releasable hitch like a Munter mule. If you need a sort of releasable option or to lower the climber, all you need to do is pull up about 1 inch on your whole system, which gives enough slack to release the Petzl micro traxion or prusik, then you can lower away. The munter mule Is a specialized rescue knot that's not normally used by climbers, and odds are you're probably going to forget how to tie it years from now in a stressful rescue situation. Keep it simple and focus on what's really required not on fancy options.
Munter mules are used by climbers all the time. What are you talking about? Nothing wrong or fancy at all about using it. Everything good about knowing it though, so that you can use it if you need to.
@@davidwarren719 Here’s a little experiment you can try next time you’re at the crag or gym. Walk up to 10 random people and ask them to show you how to properly tie a Munter mule. Report the results back here. Not only is it not taught by this professional guide, it’s also not in freedom of the hills, the generally accepted reference manual in the United States. It’s something to add to your toolbox as a more advanced climber, I agree, but it’s not a mandatory part of crevasse rescue and not something beginners need to know.
Is it ok to do the clove Hitch first directly to the fallen climber rope and then do the prusik knot with a longer cordelette or is that impossible due to the weight of the fallen climber loading on that rope?
Why do many videos on RUclips use an snow anchor and not simply the ice axe as anchor? Why carry not definitely necessary weight on top of the mountain?
I'm not a professional but if you use a picket you can still use your axe in self arrest to back up the system in case the anchor fails. Would be very hard to catch the fall if you don't have an axe in your hands. Bringing the picket also means you can have a second anchor so the system is redundant/equalized.
Ya honestly my axe is the last thing I want to give up but if you watch the next videos he does use it to prep the lip of the crevasse. Giving up the axe really limits what you’re able to do beyond that like backing up the anchor. The pickets don’t weight much either, I’ve never had to seriously consider if a pickets weight was worth it or not it 100% is.
You might need an ice axe at the later point, when pulling the "victim" out of crevasse. Its often popular to place ice axe (or something else) under the established rescue rope (need to remember to secure it to the main rope also). That prevents the rescue from from cutting deeper into the snow when you pull somebody out. But sure, if you have nothing else, use the ice axe then.
When he used a friction hitch to connect to the anchor, couldn’t he use a quickdraw to back that up? I’m new to climbing, is that some no-no that I’m not aware of?
Oliver O'Keafe True, but a quickdraw is not something you’d carry often in mountaineering. There’s not much need for that unless you’re ice climbing or something...
Not with a Yates mid-clip picket like he's using- it's designed to be placed like he did it. If you were using a traditional "T-style" picket, you would face the skinny side of the T downhill, and you might even dig a deadman rather than placing it vertically like that.
On wind turbines we had a very small block and tackle system to transfer fallen person onto your line so you repel them down. So do they make anything like that for climbers?
@@oktawiangornik1284 Because with snow pickets (same principle applies to a Deadman), you turn them in such a way, that the "pointy end" is pointing forward, in the direction of the pull. The "arrow shape" helps to distribute the load over a wider area, whereas placing it in reverse (like he did), the load gets concentrated in front of the anchor, in a very small area.
@@oktawiangornik1284 Good question, haven't noticed that it is wired that way. Can't say really, I was taught that the correct orientation is it pointing forward, like I described before.
Because you aren't racking up for aiding on El Cap- you're probably going for light weight and minimal gear if you're bringing it deep into the back country.
@@matejpevny4375 prussik is just as good. You might need a tibloc later on, when pulling out on the rescue rope. Unless you have two tiblocs. Or unless you dont mind moving prusik on the rescue rope, while pulling up.
Nice video. In reality this is exceptionally difficult. A loaded rope from a crevasse fall is much more severe and this process becomes almost unworkable. I do recommend that people actually try this, but have the "victim" actually pull at 100 lb minimum and see how it goes. It is very enlightening indeed and makes one question the wisdom of 2 person glacier travel, especially in places like Alaska.
ive practiced with an actual person, i get big time cramp in my hips verrrrrry quick! 100% a good idea and a must to practice properly, its so much harder than one would expect
Elle est géniale cette vidéo, Fayçal et Jeff sont super!
Very quick transfer, for sure. I've always gone with a friction hitch attached with a Munter-mule in order to have the releasable option. How often this would be handy is certainly debatable but the hard knot issue remains a topic of discussion worth considering. Thanks for taking the time to produce these vids. Good stuff and keeps us thinking.
Excellent video series. It's good to note that this professional guide does NOT use any sort of releasable hitch like a Munter mule. If you need a sort of releasable option or to lower the climber, all you need to do is pull up about 1 inch on your whole system, which gives enough slack to release the Petzl micro traxion or prusik, then you can lower away. The munter mule Is a specialized rescue knot that's not normally used by climbers, and odds are you're probably going to forget how to tie it years from now in a stressful rescue situation. Keep it simple and focus on what's really required not on fancy options.
Munter mules are used by climbers all the time. What are you talking about? Nothing wrong or fancy at all about using it. Everything good about knowing it though, so that you can use it if you need to.
@@davidwarren719 Here’s a little experiment you can try next time you’re at the crag or gym. Walk up to 10 random people and ask them to show you how to properly tie a Munter mule. Report the results back here. Not only is it not taught by this professional guide, it’s also not in freedom of the hills, the generally accepted reference manual in the United States. It’s something to add to your toolbox as a more advanced climber, I agree, but it’s not a mandatory part of crevasse rescue and not something beginners need to know.
Well obviously someone who hasn’t learnt to use or tie a munter mule they’re not going to know what it is
Thank you so much for sharing !
15* angle back is correct if this was a top clip. It is not correct or a mid clip wire cable picket.
What is the brand of the snow anchor in the video?
Is it ok to do the clove Hitch first directly to the fallen climber rope and then do the prusik knot with a longer cordelette or is that impossible due to the weight of the fallen climber loading on that rope?
Your second guess is correct. Its too much load, to tie a knot. You need to "unload" the rope first.
Why do many videos on RUclips use an snow anchor and not simply the ice axe as anchor? Why carry not definitely necessary weight on top of the mountain?
I'm not a professional but if you use a picket you can still use your axe in self arrest to back up the system in case the anchor fails. Would be very hard to catch the fall if you don't have an axe in your hands. Bringing the picket also means you can have a second anchor so the system is redundant/equalized.
I very much like having my ice axe handy but it is a valid point.
Ya honestly my axe is the last thing I want to give up but if you watch the next videos he does use it to prep the lip of the crevasse. Giving up the axe really limits what you’re able to do beyond that like backing up the anchor.
The pickets don’t weight much either, I’ve never had to seriously consider if a pickets weight was worth it or not it 100% is.
You might need an ice axe at the later point, when pulling the "victim" out of crevasse. Its often popular to place ice axe (or something else) under the established rescue rope (need to remember to secure it to the main rope also). That prevents the rescue from from cutting deeper into the snow when you pull somebody out. But sure, if you have nothing else, use the ice axe then.
Why is the direction of the V reversed with crevasse rescue when the vertex is supposed to point towards the load?
Because he didn't do it right.
What gloves are those?
What length/width rope are you using for this scenario?
Where is the video that shows how to arrest a crevasse fall?
When he used a friction hitch to connect to the anchor, couldn’t he use a quickdraw to back that up? I’m new to climbing, is that some no-no that I’m not aware of?
Oliver O'Keafe True, but a quickdraw is not something you’d carry often in mountaineering. There’s not much need for that unless you’re ice climbing or something...
clove hitch is fast&safe and you dont need any extra gear. Quickdraw you would need to connect with a rope somehow -thats not how its to be done.
Shouldn't you dig in this snow anchor the other way around, so that outside of the corner is facing the direction of the pull?
Not with a Yates mid-clip picket like he's using- it's designed to be placed like he did it. If you were using a traditional "T-style" picket, you would face the skinny side of the T downhill, and you might even dig a deadman rather than placing it vertically like that.
that would potentially pop out. You need a certain amount of angle, relaed to the slope angle.
On wind turbines we had a very small block and tackle system to transfer fallen person onto your line so you repel them down. So do they make anything like that for climbers?
They do! May use the same one you did. Rock exotica AZTEC systems, and Petzl JAGs are popular. I just construct one with cordelette usually.
If you need to do this it can't be good.
Great load transfer but the anchor is placed facing the wrong way
Here it shows why ruclips.net/video/sfGNZA7nEl8/видео.html
why so?
@@oktawiangornik1284 Because with snow pickets (same principle applies to a Deadman), you turn them in such a way, that the "pointy end" is pointing forward, in the direction of the pull. The "arrow shape" helps to distribute the load over a wider area, whereas placing it in reverse (like he did), the load gets concentrated in front of the anchor, in a very small area.
@@Zorzek but why would manufacturer then have a wire facing the "reverse" way, from inside and not the other way around??
@@oktawiangornik1284 Good question, haven't noticed that it is wired that way. Can't say really, I was taught that the correct orientation is it pointing forward, like I described before.
Many details are missing. You need a long releasable prusik. Thats the fastest and more secure way
I dont think anyone knows what you mean by that.
That was good but why don't u use jummar it's more comfort than prussick hitch
Because you aren't racking up for aiding on El Cap- you're probably going for light weight and minimal gear if you're bringing it deep into the back country.
There is a thing called Tibloc that is designed exactly for situations like this, check it out
@@matejpevny4375 prussik is just as good. You might need a tibloc later on, when pulling out on the rescue rope. Unless you have two tiblocs. Or unless you dont mind moving prusik on the rescue rope, while pulling up.
I 0000