So like at 1:09 that picture was mine, kinda bummed that I didn’t get any credit but I’m glad I was one of the examples🙏, also the servo shake has nothing to do with how tight the servo horn screw is in. I used to have the shaking problem because I had the same servo the 03V2 yokomo, they just don’t like to be in a direct drive system if you would replace it with the reved rs-st, that will fix your problem plus, it is also more budget friendly as well, I just went with the reefs 299 servo and gyd550 gyro
@haroldthompson4453 awesome photo! I googled Hydra shark and your picture was one that popped up. Yeah my issue was the servo screw too tight. Once I loosened it up a little the violent shaking stopped all together.
@ by loosening it your allowing it to have just that bit of slop for it to recognize it’s due to the anti-shake feature inside the servo, trust me I’ve been battling it for awhile, went away as soon as when I swapped it out for a rs-st servo from reve-d
Hey there! Thanks for sharing your experience and pointing out your picture at 1:09. It's awesome to see your contribution to the video. I understand your concern about the servo shake. It's a common issue with certain servos, especially in direct drive setups. The Reved RS-ST is indeed a great option for a more stable and budget-friendly solution. I'm curious to know more about your setup and any other tips you might have for fellow RC enthusiasts. Thanks again for your input!
Looks good 👍🙂 But I have some questions: So weight as low as possible, but the weight in the front could be much lower to gravity. Why is the springs moved that high up and extra weight is also added. Servo could be moved more to the back and lower too. Does it even matter to have lgc in the front at all?🙂
Thanks! Definitely all good questions. I also had the same concerns about the front weight also but I believe even with the front having the additional weight by having the springs located on top you can achieve more angle without the tires rubbing the shocks. Also a huge benefit to the shocks mounted up top also is you can adjust your ride height without changing your shocks preload. The rear definitely has a very decent weight to it and more than the front so it swings very smooth and consistent. I will be purchasing some titanium hardware to replace as well to lighten up more. As it sits it is a bit heavy with all the aluminum parts but doesn't seem to affect the handling in a negative way.
@@edriftin thanks for the reply. I can definitely follow your thoughts and logic in this 👍🙂 I just bought a MST 2.5 RMX and can see I need some of these upgrades. It has a lot of plastic, so it could be more stiff, but it's a great entry level car 🙂
@idealautofactory thanks for your feedback! Yeah there is alot to like about the MD 1.0 but the slide rack design was not one of those things for me. MD 2.0 addressed some of that and you can tune some of the wobble out but ultimately I found that the more I tuned the front end I would fix the excess slop in one way but the up and down play I could never get rid of fully and honestly got tired of messing with the slide rack.
So like at 1:09 that picture was mine, kinda bummed that I didn’t get any credit but I’m glad I was one of the examples🙏, also the servo shake has nothing to do with how tight the servo horn screw is in. I used to have the shaking problem because I had the same servo the 03V2 yokomo, they just don’t like to be in a direct drive system if you would replace it with the reved rs-st, that will fix your problem plus, it is also more budget friendly as well, I just went with the reefs 299 servo and gyd550 gyro
@haroldthompson4453 awesome photo! I googled Hydra shark and your picture was one that popped up. Yeah my issue was the servo screw too tight. Once I loosened it up a little the violent shaking stopped all together.
@ by loosening it your allowing it to have just that bit of slop for it to recognize it’s due to the anti-shake feature inside the servo, trust me I’ve been battling it for awhile, went away as soon as when I swapped it out for a rs-st servo from reve-d
Hey there! Thanks for sharing your experience and pointing out your picture at 1:09. It's awesome to see your contribution to the video.
I understand your concern about the servo shake. It's a common issue with certain servos, especially in direct drive setups. The Reved RS-ST is indeed a great option for a more stable and budget-friendly solution.
I'm curious to know more about your setup and any other tips you might have for fellow RC enthusiasts. Thanks again for your input!
Great video, man. just got my first drift car the other day cant wait to hit the track!!!!!!
@jamisonsenitz2528 thank you. That's awesome congrats!
2:53 purple one is mine lol
@@MonarchYT they both look amazing!
@ we are up at driftin in nwi have to check it out if ever traveling
@MonarchYT oh for sure
This video was dope dude and your car looks awesome
@andrehardy4909 thanks alot! Much appreciated.
instant sub
@@ShiftRPS13 really appreciate you!
Nice video. I saw on IG you went RR?
Oh wait 😂😂 RR as in Rhino Racing. Soon as I sent the comment, I thought about it 🤦🏾♂️
I was thinking Rear Motor
@@idealautofactory no worries. I figured I would start using abbreviations for Rhino Racing.
@@idealautofactory thanks 😊!
New to this whole drifting scene got myself a rtr but I been looking for that digital nos bottle you have on your car and I can't find it anywhere
@jaredkulp they are difficult to find online. I purchased mine from RC Car World. I think they only sell them in store. I could not find them online.
Looks good 👍🙂
But I have some questions:
So weight as low as possible, but the weight in the front could be much lower to gravity. Why is the springs moved that high up and extra weight is also added. Servo could be moved more to the back and lower too.
Does it even matter to have lgc in the front at all?🙂
Thanks! Definitely all good questions. I also had the same concerns about the front weight also but I believe even with the front having the additional weight by having the springs located on top you can achieve more angle without the tires rubbing the shocks. Also a huge benefit to the shocks mounted up top also is you can adjust your ride height without changing your shocks preload. The rear definitely has a very decent weight to it and more than the front so it swings very smooth and consistent. I will be purchasing some titanium hardware to replace as well to lighten up more. As it sits it is a bit heavy with all the aluminum parts but doesn't seem to affect the handling in a negative way.
@@edriftin thanks for the reply. I can definitely follow your thoughts and logic in this 👍🙂 I just bought a MST 2.5 RMX and can see I need some of these upgrades. It has a lot of plastic, so it could be more stiff, but it's a great entry level car 🙂
high mount that battery and it will be even better!
@SHREDTOKILL thanks for the info! I'll have to give that a try! You have any links to one that you like?
Do you prefer the shark over your MD? Debating between the two…
@winstonsmith8383 definitely prefer the front end on the Shark over the MD slide rack.
@@edriftinMD slide rack had a great concept but the execution was not the best. That whole car is great but its just a headache for longevity.
@idealautofactory thanks for your feedback! Yeah there is alot to like about the MD 1.0 but the slide rack design was not one of those things for me. MD 2.0 addressed some of that and you can tune some of the wobble out but ultimately I found that the more I tuned the front end I would fix the excess slop in one way but the up and down play I could never get rid of fully and honestly got tired of messing with the slide rack.
Hi! Do you have all the length for the turn buckle for ur shark ?
@@jjzhan4080 steering link: 59.35mm
Front lower arm links: 27.5mm
Ifs links: 37mm
Front Upper Arm links: 25mm
@ thanks 🙏
Hey, I own an RTR. Is it worth the money? I've been thinking about it.
@vn6- For me I knew I would not buy one new but I found a good deal on this roller on RC Drift Marketplace. What RTR are you running?