Very well aware of galvanized metal dangers. I always use the forge outside with the forge down wind. Also the outside is coated with high temp black paint and the inside is lined with kaowool (another good reason to have it down wind). Thanks for your post and your concern.
@2694wr The outer shell is corrugated tin. It is lined on the inside with kaowool ( a ceramic wool). That wool is on the top sides and bottom. It provides the reflective radiant heat needed to reach those temps.
Hey, just got done with using the modified burner, it dies help increase my efficiency, not getting as much unburned gas smell, and also getting better flame concentration. I'll have to make a video of it later for RUclips, when I am running the forge to do some dome raising for this shield I am working on. Thanks again!
I use propane for the fuel. There is ceramic wool lining. Also the weed burner itself was modified.Using exaust pipe reducers purchased at Auto Zone, I stepped it down twice for a double venturi effect. After I welded the two fittings together, I cut the original cup off to maintain the length for flame holding properties. The forge works extremely well although I use it seldom. I have a smaller gas forge made from a freon bottle.
Propane is what your average gas grill uses, the bottles can put out as much as 350psi on a good hot day, as the gas expands in the bottle. The torch he has, less the mod tot he nozzle, comes from Harbor Freight Tools, for about $20. I also forge blades and such, as well as armor, and I've been looking for an easy mod to my torch, and this looks like the way to go. Wish I could get a better look at the nozzle mod though.
Is that the burner that Harbor Freight carries? looks familiar. I have one myself, but I'd like to know what you did exactly to mod it, I make blades and do light armor work, and need a more portable heat source than my big charcoal forge. Also like the setup you made to clamp the torch. Also working on a forge that will be made from two freon bottles welded together, and packed with kaowool and lined with firebrick splits on the bottom for working surface.
Ok, I didn't know if you happened to remember what sizes offhand, I'll just 'trial and error fit' them. Did you take the screwy baffle plate out of the burner, or leave it in? Good performance on the heating, and once it is hot it gets back up to heat fast I bet. Ever try forge welding anything in it, or does it get that hot with this setup? Thanks for the info!
What kind of temps can you reach with this? I am working with charcoal and can only get a high Orange but not a white heat. have you tried to get it that hot before or do you think your design is capable of it?
This forge was never intended to reach a welding heat or bright yellow/white hot. This forge was built to heat up to 36" of stock at one time for bending and braiding and such. I figure it's getting up to about 1600 to 1800 degrees, but that is a guess. Charcoal won't reach the temps you are talking about. You;;'ll need coal if you want to weld. A smaller gas forge with SureWeld for the flux will weld in the smaller gas forges.
jonney, read the comment thread, all your questions will get answered. You are welcome to try and copy it. As with any DIY project you see here or anywhere, You are on your own. Use common sense and get help if you are unsure of any aspect of your build. Mine is about 7 or 8 years old now and is starting to show its age and I will be rebuilding it later this week. I'll use the same burner, but I'll need a new hose. I may do a new video when I get it built.
Yeah, those things can put out 500,000 btu, though as they come, they are gas wasters, have to mod one like he has here to get it to burn more efficiently. The stupid baffle plate in the burner seems to make it want to do atmospheric burn. I have tried to make mine burn better by confining it with fire brick and insulating blocks, but it just lets the gas burn out the end, and doesn't burn in the forge without an ample opening for the air to be mixed with it. The nozzle mod is the way to go.
@jiro9cuts0001 Honestly, I went to AutoZone and found an exaust pipe reducer And then another one to step it down again. Welded them together. Took the old nozzle and cut it down the length of the two reducers. This maintains flame holding properties. Also I use a firebrick at the back (exhaust end) of the forge to create back pressure and this allows the forge to hold heat better. Otherwise the flame just runs straight thru. I can take 5, 1/2" bars from cold forge to yellow heat in about 3 min.
The size of the 1st reducer was the one that came closest. I took the burner nozzle in with me. I used 2 reducers for a double venturi effect. seems I left the baffle plate. But don't remember.Never welded in it, but suppose it;s possible with EZ Weld. It's nice when bending or braiding long bars of iron. I do not blade smith tho. Good luck
propane is common. Natural Gas doesn't burn as hot and doesn't lend itself to portability. Be sure you know what you are doing. Any flamable gas can be very dangerous If you don't know what you are doing, get someone to help you who does. Good luck with your projects.
Very well aware of galvanized metal dangers. I always use the forge outside with the forge down wind. Also the outside is coated with high temp black paint and the inside is lined with kaowool (another good reason to have it down wind). Thanks for your post and your concern.
@2694wr The outer shell is corrugated tin. It is lined on the inside with kaowool ( a ceramic wool). That wool is on the top sides and bottom. It provides the reflective radiant heat needed to reach those temps.
Hey, just got done with using the modified burner, it dies help increase my efficiency, not getting as much unburned gas smell, and also getting better flame concentration. I'll have to make a video of it later for RUclips, when I am running the forge to do some dome raising for this shield I am working on. Thanks again!
I use propane for the fuel. There is ceramic wool lining. Also the weed burner itself was modified.Using exaust pipe reducers purchased at Auto Zone, I stepped it down twice for a double venturi effect. After I welded the two fittings together, I cut the original cup off to maintain the length for flame holding properties. The forge works extremely well although I use it seldom. I have a smaller gas forge made from a freon bottle.
Propane is what your average gas grill uses, the bottles can put out as much as 350psi on a good hot day, as the gas expands in the bottle. The torch he has, less the mod tot he nozzle, comes from Harbor Freight Tools, for about $20. I also forge blades and such, as well as armor, and I've been looking for an easy mod to my torch, and this looks like the way to go. Wish I could get a better look at the nozzle mod though.
Is that the burner that Harbor Freight carries? looks familiar. I have one myself, but I'd like to know what you did exactly to mod it, I make blades and do light armor work, and need a more portable heat source than my big charcoal forge. Also like the setup you made to clamp the torch. Also working on a forge that will be made from two freon bottles welded together, and packed with kaowool and lined with firebrick splits on the bottom for working surface.
Ok, I didn't know if you happened to remember what sizes offhand, I'll just 'trial and error fit' them. Did you take the screwy baffle plate out of the burner, or leave it in? Good performance on the heating, and once it is hot it gets back up to heat fast I bet. Ever try forge welding anything in it, or does it get that hot with this setup? Thanks for the info!
Nice design!
What kind of temps can you reach with this? I am working with charcoal and can only get a high Orange but not a white heat. have you tried to get it that hot before or do you think your design is capable of it?
This forge was never intended to reach a welding heat or bright yellow/white hot. This forge was built to heat up to 36" of stock at one time for bending and braiding and such. I figure it's getting up to about 1600 to 1800 degrees, but that is a guess. Charcoal won't reach the temps you are talking about. You;;'ll need coal if you want to weld. A smaller gas forge with SureWeld for the flux will weld in the smaller gas forges.
jonney, read the comment thread, all your questions will get answered. You are welcome to try and copy it. As with any DIY project you see here or anywhere, You are on your own. Use common sense and get help if you are unsure of any aspect of your build. Mine is about 7 or 8 years old now and is starting to show its age and I will be rebuilding it later this week. I'll use the same burner, but I'll need a new hose. I may do a new video when I get it built.
Yeah, those things can put out 500,000 btu, though as they come, they are gas wasters, have to mod one like he has here to get it to burn more efficiently. The stupid baffle plate in the burner seems to make it want to do atmospheric burn. I have tried to make mine burn better by confining it with fire brick and insulating blocks, but it just lets the gas burn out the end, and doesn't burn in the forge without an ample opening for the air to be mixed with it. The nozzle mod is the way to go.
@jiro9cuts0001 Honestly, I went to AutoZone and found an exaust pipe reducer And then another one to step it down again. Welded them together. Took the old nozzle and cut it down the length of the two reducers. This maintains flame holding properties. Also I use a firebrick at the back (exhaust end) of the forge to create back pressure and this allows the forge to hold heat better. Otherwise the flame just runs straight thru. I can take 5, 1/2" bars from cold forge to yellow heat in about 3 min.
The size of the 1st reducer was the one that came closest. I took the burner nozzle in with me. I used 2 reducers for a double venturi effect. seems I left the baffle plate. But don't remember.Never welded in it, but suppose it;s possible with EZ Weld. It's nice when bending or braiding long bars of iron. I do not blade smith tho. Good luck
propane is common. Natural Gas doesn't burn as hot and doesn't lend itself to portability. Be sure you know what you are doing. Any flamable gas can be very dangerous If you don't know what you are doing, get someone to help you who does. Good luck with your projects.
Jonney,
Read the comment thread. All your questions will be answered.