Bas-Armagnac Roundup: Tariquet 8yo v. Osmin "Baco" 1995 v. Grosperrin 1996 v. Darroze Paguy 2005
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- As a longtime Armagnac drinker I recently had a shakeup to my worldview. I'd always assumed that, even though there were other production regions out there, de facto the Armagnac one would find would all be from the Bas (so-called "low") Armagnac in the central west of the region - bottles like the ones featured here, and like the ones in my Intro video last year ( • Intro to Armagnac: Art... ). And then I got a wee sample bottle of D'Aurensan 2009, which is from the more easterly Ténarèze region. And it kind of rocked my world ( • 'Yak Attack: D'Aurensa... ), and it turns out there's more of them out there - the effect was a little like, say, drinking ales all your life and then having someone pass you a high-end lager. So in the next month or two I'll be doing a little tour of whatever Ténarèze Armagnacs I can get my hands on, just to fill that gap in my knowledge.
But before then we need to get established with the classics. To do that I've arranged a lineup of Bas-Armagnacs of different ages and styles, and some of them honestly surprised me with how good they are (after all, the blues still have something to teach rock and roll). Stats:
- Domaine Tariquet "Pure Folle Blanche" 8 Year Old Cask Strength Bas-Armagnac (100% Folle Blanche; bottled circa 2020; 50.5% ABV), 87/100
- Lionel Osmin "Baco" 1995 23 Year Old Bas-Armagnac (100% Baco; bottled circa 2019; 47.9% ABV), 85-/100
- Grosperrin 1996 Bas-Armagnac for Fine Drams/Aficionados (Cask 5/CiT2, 348 liters for 497 bottles; bottled circa 2020; 53.1% ABV), 90/100
- Darroze Domaine de Paguy 2005 13 Year Old Bas-Armagnac (45% Baco, 45% Ugni Blanc, 10% Folle Blanche; bottled 10/2018; 49.7% ABV), 84/100
The Osmin is a great little deal for what it is (I mentioned it in • "I'm Looking For a Spe... ), but here it's completely overshadowed by the little Tariquet and the monstrous Grosperrin. The Darroze is, well, lovely, just inexplicably priced. Overall, the Bas-Armagnac continues to be awesome - let's see what its eastward neighbors can do.
The Darroze that I love is the 20 year old of the standard range. I tried the 15, and I found it to young. Never tried the 30 or 40 year old, but they used to be available before COVID (in Quebec). I had the Tariquet 12, and it was good, but I think only 25% was folle blanche, unlike yours that was 100%. Tried some Haut Armagnac with some % of colombar grape, and to my surprise, it blew my mind (Chateau Arton). At the moment I have some Bordeneuve bas armagnac 2005. There best year. I’ve tried there 1998, 2000, 2005, 2008 and 2009.
I've had the 20yr and 30yr Grande Assemblages from Darroze. The 30yr took everything good about the 20yr and improved it. I never felt the 20yr was all that fruity so I didn't feel I was missing anything moving up to the 30yr which was an all around richer better experience and less sharp on the nose. That being said, it was pricey for what it was.
I'm also hunting for anything from Haut-Armagnac, as long as we're talking about it! Darroze is a bottler I've always liked but never quite loved - I'll keep an eye out for the 20!
I'm just starting my Armagnac journey. Thanks for this video. Looking forward to the Tariquet 8 yr. I still wish there were more options where I am in Canada, but they do an okay job importing interesting stuff. Most are at 40% though. I've heard the flavor holds up well despite the low strength. Take care.
Alex
Thanks for watching! Good luck up there - the 40%ers are fairly solid, but hop onto the higher proof ones the first chance you get. :)
@@differentspirits4157 merci!
Also in Canada, it's challenging for us to get the smaller less distributed offerings but don't despair, SAQ usually carries Delord which despite being 40% has some stellar older vintages and are affordable. LCBO carried Bordeneuve which had a few vintages at higher proofs 49% etc. Otherwise keep an eye out for Alberta, Darozze vintages tend to drop there once a year or so and the top specialist retailers tend to get in some interesting Indie bottled Armagnac or Cognac which is often higher proof.
@@80sixed the SAQ seems to do pretty well in comparison to the LCBO. I onyl have experience buying in Quebec and Ontario. I actually passed up that 25 year Delord at SAQ. It seemed like a great value. I recently found one of their Armagnacs at LCBO. I know they are a reputable house. Thanks.
I’ve watched all your armargnac videos and I’m ready to jump in the pool. Can you recommend a couple bottles to start with? For context, I’ve had a robust exploration of scotch, bourbon, and tequila, with some side treks in grappa and mezcal.
Availability in the US is still pretty terrible TBH, except maybe on the coasts. Basically any 'Yak bottled above 40% should be worth scrutinizing; look for picks from the big stores at first, those might be your best chance. The l'Encantadas are typically good but are also now prime tater targets, so prices have gone up enormously (especially on the big names - Pibous, etc.). D'Aurensan and Leberon are not cheap and not for beginners, but amazing. The vintage Dartigalongues are available and very nice in that they bump the proofs up a bit. There's some weird stuff out there you'll have to dig for, too (I'mma review Cobra Fire Evil Force in a bit). And, if you can, go outside the US (ahem): Tariquet is great, as is Baraillon. Good luck!
That Grosperrin is dense! Only beginning to work through it, but I'm already glad I have backup bottles. I don't really get the struck match note, but the dark chocolate/coffee notes are inescapable. The Tariquet 8yr sounds actually better than the 15yr which is quite oaky and loses it's fruit and floral charm promised by the folle blanche--still good though. Darroze is tricky and I'm not comfortable gambling with a $100+ purchase. That kind of money should deliver the goods in my opinion.
For Tenareze: Pellehaut 1989 was a solid purchase, and was really a lesson in oak management (especially compared to the brash new oak on Tariquet). If you can find the ~1995 single varietals I hear they're great. Charles Neal imports them for good reason
Pellehaut soon! :D (Tariquet 15 soon too, hopefully.) And yes, the Grosperrin is a bit of a beast.
Have you tried the 12yo (bottled at 49.8%)?
I'm trying to decide which Tariquet to try (first), I could get the 8yo for 30€/$35, the 12yo for 36€/$43 and the 15yo for 45€/$53.
@@kaktuskontrafaktus So far I've only had the 8, but obviously I vouch for it! 15 soon, I hope. I will say that, for those prices, the 8 looks like a terrific low-risk way into the range.
My brandy dream i guess is Armagnac which is less wood driven but at an advanced age, like matured "in the finest" reused armagnac or cognac limousin barrels. So did you identified a pattern of the style yet ? Old french people tend to say that it's less accessible and fruity at a young age, but comes out with brillance with a long time resting in a good'ol splintery virgin oak cask ! But old french people also say that beaujolais is like the woman you forgot the next day so..... I prefer aromatic patterns a lot. PS: i wanted a to find a good review on this young tariquet bottling so bad
Honestly, what I'm finding is that there's a tremendous diversity of styles. There are tons of oak bombs out there but also some fruiter styles, some floral styles... it really seems to depend on the producer, the grape mix, maybe the fermentation, the cask choice, etc..