Awesome! I just recently found you and the Christian Landscaper. Both of you do a phenomenal job. I’ve never done a patio before, but as many videos as I watched. I feel confident that I could do it. It’s crazy how much you can help from the right people who can communicate clearly
Best hardscape channel on RUclips. I’m a hardscaper as well and I love your attention to detail. I’ve been laying stone for about 5 and made the switch to open graded base system last year. I have almost completed my construction project management certification and I will definitely be perusing ICPI certification this season. Keep up the great work.
We use both, but lean more heavily on dense grade. I appreciate that you covered the need to compact open as much as dense-I feel like some guys are using open as a way to cut corners.
Love your presentation, full of great info.!!! I want to add an additional parking pad using open grated aggregate. I understand that their is a product on the market you can spray on to keep it in place. Can use recommend a product that will keep it solid instead of getting in tires, etc... thanks for sharing.
Oh the product that I know of on the market for things like that are not vehicular rated. With the twisting and turning of tires they will come loose. Also your climate plays a factor as well. Rock Bond is the one I know of but it is also not suitable for a larger aggregate like 3/4”
Yes, a major benefit to open graded base. Definitely dense graded base is almost exclusively used where you are located. But there are still benefits to open graded base that apply anywhere.
great information. On my upper garden I have done exactly as you have stated in that it is compacted with dense grade and a drain to the lower garden area. The lower garden are is open grade to act as a large soakaway. I am now ready to pave the lower garden (patio) as this is directly next to the house. The paving is sandstone and 3/4" thick and needs to be bedded on a full cement/sand mix. Is it possible to put a 4 sand: 1 cement semi dry mix directly onto open grade stones?
Not in the trade. Just doing the back garden myself in UK Manchester (rainchester 😀) Due to the amount of rain here I would use open graded aggravate for better drainage. After compaction what do I need to put on top of the open graded aggravate so I can lay porcelain tiles and synthetic grass? Great chanel. Thanks
Your videos are always very good bro. You must put a lot of effort into them. I always enjoy watching and I've got a lot out of them over the last 3 or 4 months. Thanks for sharing.
Very useful information, thanks. I'm building some natural stone steps on a slope leading to the riverfront and I was wondering if i should use dense aggregate versus 1/4 inch clean aggregate. I'd like the base of the step to be well compacted but I'm not sure how well the 1/4 inch clean compacts. thanks
I live in Louisiana and I am getting ready to lay 650 ft.² of pavers I noticed some of my pavers have like a white powder substance on it most like mildew can I pressure wash them after I install and then put the Palmer sand in
That is likely efflorescence. If it is really bad I would reach out to who you ordered it from. If it is not a lot it should go away after some rainfalls. If not it requires an acid wash
Here in the Pacific Northwest (Washington State) Open grade base is probably the best overall due to the washout possibility due to how much rain we get here
Building a 20*12 raised paver patio, with a 24in high wrap around retaining wall. The soil is dense clay and has a slope above and below the planned area. A few questions for you. Since I’m using cheap wall blocks from lowes Should I use 3/4 clean for back fill? Or will that make the backfill to heavy? If I don’t use 3/4 clean can I use fill dirt? Making sure I understand the layers; compacted subsoil, non woven geo fabric, biaxial geo grid ontop of fabric, 6in of compacted 3/4 clean, 1in of screeded patio chips (I think that’s what my area calls 1/4 clean), then pavers.
You got the layers correct. Definitely use 3/4” back filled area for drainage 12” behind the wall. This will allow for water to flow through as opposed to being retained by soil and pushing on the wall from behind.
Hey so around the 5 minute mark- if open the drainage pipe goes right into the stone? If drainage is already on the outside of the wall or if using dense, the drainage would be outside of the wall area? Footer? Sorry trying to understand that better. Great video thank you
For walls, if using dense graded base, the drain would go on top of the dense graded base in the drainage area where you would then use open graded stone behind the wall. If using open graded base, your pipe should be lower about 4" above the subsoil in the open graded base. Hope that makes sense.
So if I’m building a square garden bed retaining wall, should I use an open graded base 3/4” no fine’s underneath the block compacted, and then use a dense grade for inside the blocks to lock them in a bit better. Just wondering if I should use open grade base for the wall to allow more drainage and prevent freeze and thaw heaping? Then put the drain about 4” above sub soil right? Need to do your classes man, but your videos help so much. Thanks for all your wisdom and knowledge.!
What is the recommended method to install edge restraint on open graded base ? Concrete / plastic / aluminum Also, is the top layer 1/4 clean stone compacted or not ?
Concrete or aluminum with a wedge spike. You cannot install and edge restraint that has a nail to fasten it. Scrape away the bedding material and install. There is a video on this on our channel. Compaction after laying pavers and sweeping in jointing compound.
Can you use dense grade aggregate to fix a clay subsoil sloping towards the house? Would the dense grade act as an additional subsoil in this case? Would it still be ok to use open graded base afterwards? Thank you for all the informative videos and advice!
I wouldn’t use it to fix a slope towards a house. It would still be the path of least resistance for water to go. And yes you can use a geotextile to separate then start installing open graded base on top.
Love the videos, got my sub. I'm torn from switching from crusher (dense) to clean stone for wall applications - but many hardscapers I know do just that. Does it sub out 1:1 for crusher with regards to depth and width? And how does it fare for compaction? I just can't wrap my head around using clean over crusher, but I'm afraid we have been doing it "wrong".
For my wall applications, if I have a lower area to drain to I use open graded. Because the drain is placed lower in the backfill area. If I do not have a lower area to drain to, I use dense graded. Open graded actually has a higher compaction rate without mechanical compaction so you don’t have to order as much as you are ordering with dense graded. But open graded is more expensive so it’s not like it saves you money, just slightly less yards to account for. It’s about 85% - 90% compacted without mechanical compaction.
@@iamahardscaper Thank you so much for the prompt reply! I'm not so much worried about price point, as that should be passed on to the customer. I worry about whether or not we are creating structurally sound products that will hold up. My worst nightmare would be a failure - and if our technique is wrong, or if there is a better way to do something I want to know.
I wonder if open graded is working in Canada where we are having cold and humid winter. I call the largest material depot to get estimation. They nearly laughed at me telling I wanted 3/4 clean crushed rock
@@iamahardscaper thank you for the replied. I called "Transport Multivrac". It's a good place. It's near Quebec City. Here winters are a big deal 20x the snow pf Toronto and much much more cold during winters. I'll have to do more research. I mean "they nearly laughed for telling I wanted to order 3/4 for doing paver base". Still seem to be a great solution!
Gotchya! The argument for open graded base in the winters is that the air circulation also allows for the insulation of the base material and the water that makes its way into the system goes down to the base and subsoil without being held onto by the fines of other base materials. I looked at their website and they do not sell the proper material which is probably why they laughed. 3/4" needs to be angular crushed, by their photos they have rounds in their aggregate. They also sell stone dust which is a big no in our industry, but older suppliers still sell it.
@@iamahardscaper thank you so much, I appreciate you took time to answer thoroughly my concerns 🙂🙏 I listened your great videos, took notes and know we need select the right type of rocks (did my homeworks). I'll go there to make sure they have the good stuff. I think there website's pictures aren't accurate I'm looking for professional consultation on design/layout of my project. I'll send you private message on your website
Can i use this method for a sett stone garden pathway? Located in socal so ideally want to catch as much water as possible just dont know if the larger aggregate will hold the cobblestone setts in place. Local hard scape guy wanted to mortar them solid is that no good?
You can use polymeric sand or a resin-based semi permeable jointing compound. We have a video coming Friday talking about jointing compounds and their applications.
I am tearing out my asphalt driveway and installing a techobloc pure paver for a my new driveway. I was planning on using 10-12" of 3/4-0 for the base and then 1" of concrete sand for bedding. I have dont walkways but never a driveway so i am just worried about major settling from vehicle weight. What has been your experience? Thank you you have very informative videos. I live in southeastern PA so we do have some decently cold winters
Make sure you compact your subgrade well. Add some 3/4” clean into the subgrade and compact it, maybe sprinkle some Portland cement into that as well if it is really saturated. Use a geotextile, then start building up your base. Use 1 or 2 layers or biaxial or tri axial geogrid in your base. All this will help to build a solid driveway
question... if you have clay and you dig out an area for pavers.... aren't you basically creating a pond for water to collect ? or worse a lower spot against a house for water to go...would you install drainage under the sub base in that instance
Yup! Perforate pipe taking that water away is best. Subbase should also be sloped away from that foundation. Not a significant amount of water makes it way through to the base unless the jointing material is permeable.
Really appreciate all your content! I’m working on a DYII 400 square-foot patio in my backyard. I have chosen to go with an open grade base, and I’m contemplating weather to use woven or non-woven Geo fabric, or even if the weed barrier we already have woukd work. I have very dense red clay soil, and I’m applying 6 inches of three-quarter inch clean stone. Also I have a little over a 1/8 pitch away from house which follows the natural grade of the yard pretty well. Thoughts?
Thanks very much for your reply. So, a drain at the low end of the patio is needed with the system? About 4 feet past the patio I have a steep hill that goes down from the lowest grade point of the patio.
You should be good for drainage if that is the case. You could add a small trench that extends past the patio towards that slope for any build up of water to work its way out.
Just found your video. I just finished installing 5 inches of crushed limestone for my flagstone patio, so now I’m doubting my decision. What would you recommend I use as a leveling layer? Great video and valuable info, thank you!
Where is your business located? I'm wanting to know how the synthetic base works in a climate with lots of freeze/thaw cycles as in Alberta Canada. I will watch some of your other videos to see if you mention this. Would also love to know how you prep your permeable driveway installs for a freeze/thaw climate.
Toronto. So somewhat similar freeze thaw. It holds up great. We have never done a full permeable install for a driveway. I don’t even think we have done an open graded base for a driveway. There is a series of 3 videos from last week where I discuss the different base preparation methods and where I use them.
Great videos. Do you ever use RCA… 3/4” Recycled concrete aggregate as a base layer? It has fines similar to a dense graded base, and its quite a bit cheaper and easier to find in my area
I am building a raised paver patio and I am wondering if it's okay for me to put the leftover pieces of the wall blocks in with the fill. I'll be putting in about 16 inches of fill but some of the scraps are pretty large.
This is a noob DIY question: can I leave the uncompacted 3/4” clean rock out until next summer? The rain starts in a few days and I have to put everything on hold. Should I still compact it or wait till next summer?
I would be interested in if you have any comments about Geo web products and how they might be applied in a paver patio. Could they be used to reduce the base layer thickness VS expensive Gator panels etc.
When you say Geo Web, are you talking about Geogrid? We do have a couple of videos on using Biaxial Geogrid in the base, though we do not reduce the base. Instead we use it as added stability and cheap insurance. The Gator Base is expensive, but it reduces labor and dumping fees dramatically.
Do you have to worry about the water not filtering through the ground underneath the open grade? My fears are they would fill with water and lift up the patio or freeze underneath if the water can’t drain quickly enough.
Yes, if you know you have a dense clay subsoil I would recommend having a perforated pipe in your base that the subgrade slopes towards and carries that water away from your base.
If you want the free draining because you have pets that will use the turf, then I would probably opt for an open graded base. If not, traditional would work well but I may go with a concrete sand bedding layer.
What is the difference between 3/4 crushed stone v/s recycled 3/4 crushed stone ? Can recycled version be used for open graded base ? Would it compromise the strength of foundation? Is woven geofabric + geogrid+ 4" of 3/4 stone + 1" of 1/4 stone = 5" enough for backyard porcelain paver patio ?
Recycled just means it is reusing concrete. Should be fine as long as it passes a hardness test and it is angular. Yes it can be used for open graded base and would not compromise the strength of the base. If you are going to place geogrid on top of geotextile, opt for the nonwoven geotextile rather than the woven. If you are in a freeze-thaw climate, improve that base depth to 6" plus you 1 bedding layer.
I need your help please!!! Hello. I'm in the process of laying natural 2" thick limestone stepping stones for my sidewalks. I dug out the area 10” deep, laid a 6-7” 411 base (limestone with 3/4” to minus which also has stone dust) Plate compacted it to a 1/2” to 3/4” pitch in 10’ I then laid 1/4" gravel using the 1-1/4" pipe rails and smoothed it out before laying the stepping stones. The natural limestone stepping stones are approximately 2 to 2-1/2" thick and range around 14"-18" × 20"-30" My soil beneath the base and bed gravel is primarily sandy. Do you think my base will be ok for Michigan weather? In the winter we get to about zero to -20° F. Also. What would you recommend to use for filling in the joints? And should I use a plate compactor on top the stepping stones to fill in the joints? Love your videos. You guys do awesome work and I laugh at you both. Keep up the great work
I don’t like having stone dust on our climate. I don’t know what your joint widths are like. But if they are large you could go with some sort of decorative aggregate. If small you could use polymeric sand. You could try NOCO by techniseal and not need to compact it if your worried about the stone.
@@iamahardscaper I haven’t laid the natural limestone stepping stones yet. I’m worried my 3/4”-minus base and 1/4” granular bed is wrong. I seen your video and another saying 3/4” base is better. Should I remove all the 6-8” of 3/4”-to minus base I have and replace it with the 3/4” open base?
I don't know that I would remove it if you have already put all that work into it. Some contractors still use that base preparation method and swear by it. I can't tell you what choice to make, you just need to weigh the pros and cons and make the decision.
I recently started a 30x30 patio and had base material delivered. I thought I was getting 3/4 clear stone. But it's actually somewhere between what you show was 3/4 clear and "dense graded". Would you use plastic edge restraint with that type of material?
Without seeing it, I would probably play it safe and go concrete edge because you can use it in either. Plastic edge requires enough fines to adhere to the corrosion of the metal spikes.
Wow 30x30 patio, that’s a decent size. Nick I’m trying to do a 25x25 patio and I’m finding out i may have gotten myself into a project that’s bigger than what I thought it would be. I would love to talk and see how exactly you went about doing yours. Let me know by responding is you are okay with that and I can send you my number. Thanks
@@darryelsanchez1309 hello Darryel, yeah it took me quite a bit longer than I thought it would. Prepping the sub soil, adding leveling and compacting base was the hard part.
Where are you located? From what I gather the only places to find HPB is in Canada. I can buy it at Home Depot, in Canada. Where else am I supposed to find it? Gravel yards sell 3/4" and larger. I can find crushed limestone, but not washed and not 1/4" I'm confused as to why you are recommending an elusive material. I have a deck to build tomorrow and I have spent an entire day trying to find this stuff. I bought the forms (for a lack of the actual term) in place of a base but I am likely having to use sand with it because this material is impossible to find.
It depends on the application still. If you still get some rain, open graded can still be beneficial. But I would ask around in your area and see what people use and why they use what they use.
Hello, I am new in the business and was wondering which type to use for the base. I am working on a 400 square footage and will also be using the pa er base panels. Also, how many inches of dirt should I dig if I am using a two inch thick pa er? Thank you very much.
If you are use it the paver base panels you can use 1” of depth of concrete sand or 1/4” clean chip. Concrete sand requires you to compact before laying panels. Add up each including 1” bedding, 3/4” for panels, 2” pavers. Make sure you are getting down to subgrade with your excavation. Hope that helps, check out our video on paver base panels as well
@@iamahardscaper I truly appreciate your help and guidance. I started watching your videos because you make it simple, educational and very informative. I saw your video on base panels and that is why I decided to go with them instead of having an 8 inch rock base. Thank you very much again for doing this. Thank you very much.
Sorry to bother you again. I have one more question. Should I use sand on top of the concrete sand and then the base panels? Sorry, I just want to get it right. I appreciate it. Thank you again for responding to me. My wife was surprised! In a good way!
Concrete sand is just a coarse granule sand. Screed that out over nonwoven geotextile, use a tamper to compact that, then just level it back out with more concrete sand because the tamper will make some irregularities.
yes, I still use it with 3/4 minus bases. No, I typically still use 1/4" chip (HPB) on top of my dense grade bases still unless the paver has a thin joint then I will use concrete sand.
@@iamahardscaper thanks for the reply. I'm working on my own patio as we speak and I was delivered clear 3/4 stone and crushed dense stone like you mentioned on the video, the store recommended that I use the dense stone in, under, and around the retaining wall, but I understand now that clear stone is better, so I'm trying to find another use for the crushed 3/4. Im also using geotextile and geogrid. . My soil is soft and has a some organic matter on it, I'm trying to find a better way to deal with it. The highest area on the retaining wall of my raised patio is about a foot
If you do not have a lower area to drain water, the dense stone would be good for your retaining wall base. You also want to remove any organic material in your excavation.
Open graded always 💪🏻 we also always use a drainage pipe into a system and usually run it to a pop of drain in case water gets in the system. We also Always slope our sub soils towards those pipes.
So if you use open grade base only which is 3/4 and put sand on top. will it sank in rocks or water can wash it away? Or you can use 3/4 mixture with stone dust? Please advise
Sand on top of 3/4" open graded will not work, it will sink into the voids. Dense graded 3/4" minus with concrete sand (never use stone dust) would be a dense graded base or traditional base and is what is recommended by ICPI.
@@iamahardscaper Hi. Road base is not available in my area. And I don't want to mix it with concrete sand. Is it OK to mix 3/4 with 1/4 inch or 3/8 gravel?. Thanks for reply
When you say mix, you mean use as a bedding layer on top of the other material right? 1/4" or 3/8" clean stone (not stone dust) is the specified bedding layer for 3/4" clean stone. I also use it as the bedding layer on top of my 3/4" minus (A Gravel, road base) instead of concrete sand.
@@iamahardscaper I did an apron with pavers in front of my garage and the place that sold the gravel etc. recommended what they called manufacured Sand. It looks like crushed cinder block to me. They said that is what people were using instead of sand for setting the pavers. It was also cheaper to use.
I don’t know about that. It could be what we call stone dust, chip dust, or limestone screenings. We don’t use that here and we have a video on that actually
That depends more so on drainage. do you have an area lower than the base to drain water to? then open graded base is probably best. Plus the gabion basket probably sits better on open graded. I'd reach out to the manufacturer.
I might rework my whole patio plan now. I love the idea of permeability! Is there any issue long-term with your locking sand falling into the HPB and loosening the pavers? Could this also contaminate the open base with organics? Thanks!
No, the sand makes it’s way to the HPB in the installation phase and chokes out during the consolidation phase when you compact the pavers. Especially for a patio with no heavy traffic, nothing to worry about with that.
Awesome! I just recently found you and the Christian Landscaper. Both of you do a phenomenal job. I’ve never done a patio before, but as many videos as I watched. I feel confident that I could do it. It’s crazy how much you can help from the right people who can communicate clearly
Thank you for watching!
Agreed. Been watching both and learning tons.
@@jbonegw Thank you for watching!
"It is crazy how much help you can *get from the right people who communicate CLEARLY" lmfao IRL
Best hardscape channel on RUclips. I’m a hardscaper as well and I love your attention to detail. I’ve been laying stone for about 5 and made the switch to open graded base system last year. I have almost completed my construction project management certification and I will definitely be perusing ICPI certification this season.
Keep up the great work.
Thank you! Appreciate that
We use both, but lean more heavily on dense grade. I appreciate that you covered the need to compact open as much as dense-I feel like some guys are using open as a way to cut corners.
Definitely! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Love your presentation, full of great info.!!! I want to add an additional parking pad using open grated aggregate. I understand that their is a product on the market you can spray on to keep it in place. Can use recommend a product that will keep it solid instead of getting in tires, etc... thanks for sharing.
Oh the product that I know of on the market for things like that are not vehicular rated. With the twisting and turning of tires they will come loose. Also your climate plays a factor as well. Rock Bond is the one I know of but it is also not suitable for a larger aggregate like 3/4”
Sounds like freeze-thaw cycles are a key consideration. I live in north Texas, where most freezes last only a few hours.
Yes, a major benefit to open graded base. Definitely dense graded base is almost exclusively used where you are located. But there are still benefits to open graded base that apply anywhere.
great information. On my upper garden I have done exactly as you have stated in that it is compacted with dense grade and a drain to the lower garden area. The lower garden are is open grade to act as a large soakaway. I am now ready to pave the lower garden (patio) as this is directly next to the house. The paving is sandstone and 3/4" thick and needs to be bedded on a full cement/sand mix. Is it possible to put a 4 sand: 1 cement semi dry mix directly onto open grade stones?
I probably wouldn’t I don’t think
Not in the trade. Just doing the back garden myself in UK Manchester (rainchester 😀)
Due to the amount of rain here I would use open graded aggravate for better drainage.
After compaction what do I need to put on top of the open graded aggravate so I can lay porcelain tiles and synthetic grass?
Great chanel. Thanks
You would be using an open graded small chip stone. Here we use a 1/4” chip. It has no sand / dust in it.
Your videos are always very good bro. You must put a lot of effort into them. I always enjoy watching and I've got a lot out of them over the last 3 or 4 months. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Very useful information, thanks. I'm building some natural stone steps on a slope leading to the riverfront and I was wondering if i should use dense aggregate versus 1/4 inch clean aggregate. I'd like the base of the step to be well compacted but I'm not sure how well the 1/4 inch clean compacts. thanks
I’d prefer to use the open graded for this application personally. 3/4” for the steps.
Great videos!!! Thank you.
Thank you!
I live in Louisiana and I am getting ready to lay 650 ft.² of pavers I noticed some of my pavers have like a white powder substance on it most like mildew can I pressure wash them after I install and then put the Palmer sand in
That is likely efflorescence. If it is really bad I would reach out to who you ordered it from. If it is not a lot it should go away after some rainfalls. If not it requires an acid wash
When using an open graded base do you have to worry about the bedding laying sinking into the base when screeding? Thanks
No, I do not. I know some people that would install a nonwoven geotextile between the base and bedding layer.
Here in the Pacific Northwest (Washington State) Open grade base is probably the best overall due to the washout possibility due to how much rain we get here
Definitely! Major benefit of open graded base
Also, should I use three-quarter stone for my base? I have Clay dirt mix with topsoil dirt
As long as you have a plan to drain it somewhere
Building a 20*12 raised paver patio, with a 24in high wrap around retaining wall. The soil is dense clay and has a slope above and below the planned area. A few questions for you.
Since I’m using cheap wall blocks from lowes Should I use 3/4 clean for back fill? Or will that make the backfill to heavy? If I don’t use 3/4 clean can I use fill dirt?
Making sure I understand the layers; compacted subsoil, non woven geo fabric, biaxial geo grid ontop of fabric, 6in of compacted 3/4 clean, 1in of screeded patio chips (I think that’s what my area calls 1/4 clean), then pavers.
You got the layers correct. Definitely use 3/4” back filled area for drainage 12” behind the wall. This will allow for water to flow through as opposed to being retained by soil and pushing on the wall from behind.
Hey so around the 5 minute mark- if open the drainage pipe goes right into the stone? If drainage is already on the outside of the wall or if using dense, the drainage would be outside of the wall area? Footer? Sorry trying to understand that better. Great video thank you
For walls, if using dense graded base, the drain would go on top of the dense graded base in the drainage area where you would then use open graded stone behind the wall. If using open graded base, your pipe should be lower about 4" above the subsoil in the open graded base. Hope that makes sense.
So if I’m building a square garden bed retaining wall, should I use an open graded base 3/4” no fine’s underneath the block compacted, and then use a dense grade for inside the blocks to lock them in a bit better. Just wondering if I should use open grade base for the wall to allow more drainage and prevent freeze and thaw heaping? Then put the drain about 4” above sub soil right? Need to do your classes man, but your videos help so much. Thanks for all your wisdom and knowledge.!
What is the recommended method to install edge restraint on open graded base ? Concrete / plastic / aluminum
Also, is the top layer 1/4 clean stone compacted or not ?
Concrete or aluminum with a wedge spike. You cannot install and edge restraint that has a nail to fasten it. Scrape away the bedding material and install. There is a video on this on our channel.
Compaction after laying pavers and sweeping in jointing compound.
For open grade, does the 3/4 crushed stone need to be clean/washed? I keep looking but only see 3/4 gravel or 3/4 limestone
yes, needs to be clean / washed / clear. otherwise you are getting dense grade
Can you use dense grade aggregate to fix a clay subsoil sloping towards the house? Would the dense grade act as an additional subsoil in this case? Would it still be ok to use open graded base afterwards? Thank you for all the informative videos and advice!
I wouldn’t use it to fix a slope towards a house. It would still be the path of least resistance for water to go. And yes you can use a geotextile to separate then start installing open graded base on top.
Love the videos, got my sub. I'm torn from switching from crusher (dense) to clean stone for wall applications - but many hardscapers I know do just that. Does it sub out 1:1 for crusher with regards to depth and width? And how does it fare for compaction?
I just can't wrap my head around using clean over crusher, but I'm afraid we have been doing it "wrong".
For my wall applications, if I have a lower area to drain to I use open graded. Because the drain is placed lower in the backfill area. If I do not have a lower area to drain to, I use dense graded.
Open graded actually has a higher compaction rate without mechanical compaction so you don’t have to order as much as you are ordering with dense graded. But open graded is more expensive so it’s not like it saves you money, just slightly less yards to account for. It’s about 85% - 90% compacted without mechanical compaction.
@@iamahardscaper Thank you so much for the prompt reply! I'm not so much worried about price point, as that should be passed on to the customer. I worry about whether or not we are creating structurally sound products that will hold up. My worst nightmare would be a failure - and if our technique is wrong, or if there is a better way to do something I want to know.
Good mindset 👍👍
I wonder if open graded is working in Canada where we are having cold and humid winter. I call the largest material depot to get estimation. They nearly laughed at me telling I wanted 3/4 clean crushed rock
Interesting, can I ask who you called. Located in Toronto here, yes open graded works well here👍
@@iamahardscaper thank you for the replied. I called "Transport Multivrac". It's a good place. It's near Quebec City. Here winters are a big deal 20x the snow pf Toronto and much much more cold during winters. I'll have to do more research. I mean "they nearly laughed for telling I wanted to order 3/4 for doing paver base". Still seem to be a great solution!
Gotchya! The argument for open graded base in the winters is that the air circulation also allows for the insulation of the base material and the water that makes its way into the system goes down to the base and subsoil without being held onto by the fines of other base materials. I looked at their website and they do not sell the proper material which is probably why they laughed. 3/4" needs to be angular crushed, by their photos they have rounds in their aggregate. They also sell stone dust which is a big no in our industry, but older suppliers still sell it.
@@iamahardscaper thank you so much, I appreciate you took time to answer thoroughly my concerns 🙂🙏 I listened your great videos, took notes and know we need select the right type of rocks (did my homeworks). I'll go there to make sure they have the good stuff. I think there website's pictures aren't accurate
I'm looking for professional consultation on design/layout of my project. I'll send you private message on your website
Can i use this method for a sett stone garden pathway? Located in socal so ideally want to catch as much water as possible just dont know if the larger aggregate will hold the cobblestone setts in place. Local hard scape guy wanted to mortar them solid is that no good?
I would ask some more contractors or suppliers in your area. I do not have the experience with your climate and the building practices there.
So for open graded base patios do you use a permeable poly sand?
You can use polymeric sand or a resin-based semi permeable jointing compound. We have a video coming Friday talking about jointing compounds and their applications.
I am tearing out my asphalt driveway and installing a techobloc pure paver for a my new driveway. I was planning on using 10-12" of 3/4-0 for the base and then 1" of concrete sand for bedding. I have dont walkways but never a driveway so i am just worried about major settling from vehicle weight. What has been your experience? Thank you you have very informative videos.
I live in southeastern PA so we do have some decently cold winters
Make sure you compact your subgrade well. Add some 3/4” clean into the subgrade and compact it, maybe sprinkle some Portland cement into that as well if it is really saturated. Use a geotextile, then start building up your base. Use 1 or 2 layers or biaxial or tri axial geogrid in your base. All this will help to build a solid driveway
@@iamahardscaper thank you that’s good advice. Do you think 10-12 inches is thick enough?
We do 12” (toronto)
question... if you have clay and you dig out an area for pavers.... aren't you basically creating a pond for water to collect ? or worse a lower spot against a house for water to go...would you install drainage under the sub base in that instance
Yup! Perforate pipe taking that water away is best. Subbase should also be sloped away from that foundation. Not a significant amount of water makes it way through to the base unless the jointing material is permeable.
Really appreciate all your content!
I’m working on a DYII 400 square-foot patio in my backyard. I have chosen to go with an open grade base, and I’m contemplating weather to use woven or non-woven Geo fabric, or even if the weed barrier we already have woukd work.
I have very dense red clay soil, and I’m applying 6 inches of three-quarter inch clean stone.
Also I have a little over a 1/8 pitch away from house which follows the natural grade of the yard pretty well.
Thoughts?
I typically use a woven over clay soils with a small drain extension beyond the patio. Weed barrier would not provide the same solution.
Thanks very much for your reply.
So, a drain at the low end of the patio is needed with the system? About 4 feet past the patio I have a steep hill that goes down from the lowest grade point of the patio.
You should be good for drainage if that is the case. You could add a small trench that extends past the patio towards that slope for any build up of water to work its way out.
Just found your video. I just finished installing 5 inches of crushed limestone for my flagstone patio, so now I’m doubting my decision. What would you recommend I use as a leveling layer? Great video and valuable info, thank you!
I would probably go with concrete sand or HPB (1/4” clean crushed stone)
Hi, Im in the southern US. Do you know if "Number 89 Gravel" is the same as HPB?
It could be. Best to check it in person and see. ASTM # 8 or 9 is like HPB. 89 is probably just a combination of the two
Where is your business located? I'm wanting to know how the synthetic base works in a climate with lots of freeze/thaw cycles as in Alberta Canada.
I will watch some of your other videos to see if you mention this. Would also love to know how you prep your permeable driveway installs for a freeze/thaw climate.
Toronto. So somewhat similar freeze thaw. It holds up great.
We have never done a full permeable install for a driveway. I don’t even think we have done an open graded base for a driveway. There is a series of 3 videos from last week where I discuss the different base preparation methods and where I use them.
Great videos. Do you ever use RCA… 3/4” Recycled concrete aggregate as a base layer? It has fines similar to a dense graded base, and its quite a bit cheaper and easier to find in my area
Never, I do know some that do though
I am building a raised paver patio and I am wondering if it's okay for me to put the leftover pieces of the wall blocks in with the fill. I'll be putting in about 16 inches of fill but some of the scraps are pretty large.
I personally would not, especially since that will be the base to the patio.
Thank you sir
This is a noob DIY question: can I leave the uncompacted 3/4” clean rock out until next summer? The rain starts in a few days and I have to put everything on hold. Should I still compact it or wait till next summer?
Clean rock, so it has no fines? You can just leave it there. Compact it when you are ready.
I would be interested in if you have any comments about Geo web products and how they might be applied in a paver patio. Could they be used to reduce the base layer thickness VS expensive Gator panels etc.
When you say Geo Web, are you talking about Geogrid? We do have a couple of videos on using Biaxial Geogrid in the base, though we do not reduce the base. Instead we use it as added stability and cheap insurance. The Gator Base is expensive, but it reduces labor and dumping fees dramatically.
@@iamahardscaperI was referring to 3D type such as "Geocell"
I have not yet used it
Hey love the channel! Quick question about base for on grade patio using gator base panels. Do you any base under the hpb or just geotextile?
Make sure you take off all organics. Then compact your subsoil. And it is just nonwoven geotextile, HPB, and then gator base
Thanks man!
Do you have to worry about the water not filtering through the ground underneath the open grade? My fears are they would fill with water and lift up the patio or freeze underneath if the water can’t drain quickly enough.
Yes, if you know you have a dense clay subsoil I would recommend having a perforated pipe in your base that the subgrade slopes towards and carries that water away from your base.
What do you recommend for sub base and bedding layer for artificial turf?
If you want the free draining because you have pets that will use the turf, then I would probably opt for an open graded base. If not, traditional would work well but I may go with a concrete sand bedding layer.
Would either work in Canadian Climate? Especially winter and spring.
Either will work in Canadian climate. Speaking as a Canadian
Can I use 3/8 stone on top Crusher Runner to lay pavers onTop 3/8 Clearstone
Yup 👍
What is the difference between 3/4 crushed stone v/s recycled 3/4 crushed stone ?
Can recycled version be used for open graded base ? Would it compromise the strength of foundation?
Is woven geofabric + geogrid+ 4" of 3/4 stone + 1" of 1/4 stone = 5" enough for backyard porcelain paver patio ?
Recycled just means it is reusing concrete. Should be fine as long as it passes a hardness test and it is angular. Yes it can be used for open graded base and would not compromise the strength of the base. If you are going to place geogrid on top of geotextile, opt for the nonwoven geotextile rather than the woven. If you are in a freeze-thaw climate, improve that base depth to 6" plus you 1 bedding layer.
I need your help please!!!
Hello.
I'm in the process of laying natural 2" thick limestone stepping stones for my sidewalks.
I dug out the area 10” deep, laid a 6-7” 411 base (limestone with 3/4” to minus which also has stone dust)
Plate compacted it to a 1/2” to 3/4” pitch in 10’
I then laid 1/4" gravel using the 1-1/4" pipe rails and smoothed it out before laying the stepping stones.
The natural limestone stepping stones are approximately 2 to 2-1/2" thick and range around 14"-18" × 20"-30"
My soil beneath the base and bed gravel is primarily sandy.
Do you think my base will be ok for Michigan weather? In the winter we get to about zero to -20° F.
Also.
What would you recommend to use for filling in the joints?
And should I use a plate compactor on top the stepping stones to fill in the joints?
Love your videos. You guys do awesome work and I laugh at you both. Keep up the great work
I don’t like having stone dust on our climate. I don’t know what your joint widths are like. But if they are large you could go with some sort of decorative aggregate. If small you could use polymeric sand. You could try NOCO by techniseal and not need to compact it if your worried about the stone.
@@iamahardscaper I haven’t laid the natural limestone stepping stones yet. I’m worried my 3/4”-minus base and 1/4” granular bed is wrong. I seen your video and another saying 3/4” base is better. Should I remove all the 6-8” of 3/4”-to minus base I have and replace it with the 3/4” open base?
I don't know that I would remove it if you have already put all that work into it. Some contractors still use that base preparation method and swear by it. I can't tell you what choice to make, you just need to weigh the pros and cons and make the decision.
For A gravel, do you use Limestone base or Gravel base? ( local pit has 2 variations)
I’d be interested to see what the difference is. Possible hardness difference. I’d ask more about that
If open grade is used, will sand layer under pavers tend to settle into the open grade stone?
For an open graded base, you would not use sand under the pavers for the bedding layer. You would use a 1/4" chip on top of the 3/4" base.
I recently started a 30x30 patio and had base material delivered. I thought I was getting 3/4 clear stone. But it's actually somewhere between what you show was 3/4 clear and "dense graded". Would you use plastic edge restraint with that type of material?
Without seeing it, I would probably play it safe and go concrete edge because you can use it in either. Plastic edge requires enough fines to adhere to the corrosion of the metal spikes.
Wow 30x30 patio, that’s a decent size. Nick I’m trying to do a 25x25 patio and I’m finding out i may have gotten myself into a project that’s bigger than what I thought it would be. I would love to talk and see how exactly you went about doing yours. Let me know by responding is you are okay with that and I can send you my number. Thanks
@@darryelsanchez1309 hello Darryel, yeah it took me quite a bit longer than I thought it would. Prepping the sub soil, adding leveling and compacting base was the hard part.
@@darryelsanchez1309 let me know if you have any questions we can talk
Where are you located? From what I gather the only places to find HPB is in Canada. I can buy it at Home Depot, in Canada. Where else am I supposed to find it? Gravel yards sell 3/4" and larger. I can find crushed limestone, but not washed and not 1/4" I'm confused as to why you are recommending an elusive material. I have a deck to build tomorrow and I have spent an entire day trying to find this stuff. I bought the forms (for a lack of the actual term) in place of a base but I am likely having to use sand with it because this material is impossible to find.
Good luck
Would you recommend a dense grade or open grade for dryer climates such as Arizona?
It depends on the application still. If you still get some rain, open graded can still be beneficial. But I would ask around in your area and see what people use and why they use what they use.
Hello,
I am new in the business and was wondering which type to use for the base. I am working on a 400 square footage and will also be using the pa er base panels. Also, how many inches of dirt should I dig if I am using a two inch thick pa er?
Thank you very much.
If you are use it the paver base panels you can use 1” of depth of concrete sand or 1/4” clean chip. Concrete sand requires you to compact before laying panels. Add up each including 1” bedding, 3/4” for panels, 2” pavers. Make sure you are getting down to subgrade with your excavation. Hope that helps, check out our video on paver base panels as well
@@iamahardscaper I truly appreciate your help and guidance. I started watching your videos because you make it simple, educational and very informative. I saw your video on base panels and that is why I decided to go with them instead of having an 8 inch rock base. Thank you very much again for doing this.
Thank you very much.
Sorry to bother you again. I have one more question. Should I use sand on top of the concrete sand and then the base panels? Sorry, I just want to get it right. I appreciate it. Thank you again for responding to me. My wife was surprised! In a good way!
Concrete sand is just a coarse granule sand. Screed that out over nonwoven geotextile, use a tamper to compact that, then just level it back out with more concrete sand because the tamper will make some irregularities.
@@iamahardscaper Got it. Thank you again for your help!
Can you use the bi or tri axial mesh with the 3/4minus material?
And do you use concrete sand over the 3/4minus material?
yes, I still use it with 3/4 minus bases. No, I typically still use 1/4" chip (HPB) on top of my dense grade bases still unless the paver has a thin joint then I will use concrete sand.
Will sand ontop of open aggregate work if I put a layer of non woven fabric between?? I can’t find 1/4 clean in my area
I wouldn’t just because it could wash through the seems where you overlap the fabric
Whats the largest size I can use for the 1’ top layer? Will 1/2 or 3/8 clean work?
Whats the largest size I can use for the 1’ top layer? Will 1/2 or 3/8 clean work?
Whats the largest size I can use for the 1’ top layer? Will 1/2 or 3/8 clean work?
Whats the largest size I can use for the 1’ top layer? Will 1/2 or 3/8 clean work?
Can stone dust be used as an asphalt alternative?
No it will get ground up and be everywhere
Can we use dense grade over unstable soil, and then geotextile with open grade on top?
Unstable meaning dense clay? In that case throw down some 3/4” clear and compact it into the clay. If it is very saturated add some lime and compact.
@@iamahardscaper thanks for the reply. I'm working on my own patio as we speak and I was delivered clear 3/4 stone and crushed dense stone like you mentioned on the video, the store recommended that I use the dense stone in, under, and around the retaining wall, but I understand now that clear stone is better, so I'm trying to find another use for the crushed 3/4. Im also using geotextile and geogrid. . My soil is soft and has a some organic matter on it, I'm trying to find a better way to deal with it. The highest area on the retaining wall of my raised patio is about a foot
If you do not have a lower area to drain water, the dense stone would be good for your retaining wall base. You also want to remove any organic material in your excavation.
@@iamahardscaper thank you
Open graded always 💪🏻 we also always use a drainage pipe into a system and usually run it to a pop of drain in case water gets in the system. We also
Always slope our sub soils towards those pipes.
Absolutely! Great installation techniques. We will have a video on this in the season sometime going over those exact points 👍
So if you use open grade base only which is 3/4 and put sand on top. will it sank in rocks or water can wash it away? Or you can use 3/4 mixture with stone dust? Please advise
Sand on top of 3/4" open graded will not work, it will sink into the voids. Dense graded 3/4" minus with concrete sand (never use stone dust) would be a dense graded base or traditional base and is what is recommended by ICPI.
@@iamahardscaper Hi. Road base is not available in my area. And I don't want to mix it with concrete sand. Is it OK to mix 3/4 with 1/4 inch or 3/8 gravel?. Thanks for reply
When you say mix, you mean use as a bedding layer on top of the other material right? 1/4" or 3/8" clean stone (not stone dust) is the specified bedding layer for 3/4" clean stone. I also use it as the bedding layer on top of my 3/4" minus (A Gravel, road base) instead of concrete sand.
@@iamahardscaper No. I mean mixture 3/4 gravel with 3/8 or 1/4 to get solid compacted base. Bedding Layer would be sand. Thanks for reply
No, you wouldn’t want to do that. Instead use that 1/4” / 3/8” clean stone on top as a bedding layer
Would an open graded base be suitable for a paver driveway?
Yup 👍 I don’t typically, but it is suitable
is open graded aggregates good base for paving bricks?
yup 👍
Is concrete sand the same as manufactured Sand?
Oh i don’t know. Where did you find manufacturered sand?
@@iamahardscaper I did an apron with pavers in front of my garage and the place that sold the gravel etc. recommended what they called manufacured Sand. It looks like crushed cinder block to me. They said that is what people were using instead of sand for setting the pavers. It was also cheaper to use.
I don’t know about that. It could be what we call stone dust, chip dust, or limestone screenings. We don’t use that here and we have a video on that actually
which would you recommend for a gabion basket base please ??
Oh I'd think you'd want a decorative stone for a Gabion basket. Something like river rock or granite of some sort
no i mean in the foundation to compact before putting the gabions on top of the base @@iamahardscaper
That depends more so on drainage. do you have an area lower than the base to drain water to? then open graded base is probably best. Plus the gabion basket probably sits better on open graded. I'd reach out to the manufacturer.
Great thank you for taking the time to reply. Much appreciated
I might rework my whole patio plan now. I love the idea of permeability! Is there any issue long-term with your locking sand falling into the HPB and loosening the pavers? Could this also contaminate the open base with organics? Thanks!
No, the sand makes it’s way to the HPB in the installation phase and chokes out during the consolidation phase when you compact the pavers. Especially for a patio with no heavy traffic, nothing to worry about with that.
Asphalt is “ASH-fault”??? 🤔
😂😂
@@iamahardscaper Know that you are in good company, as a number of folks from England and Australia pronounce it the same way as you.
Yeah it’s one of my many flaws