As a furniture maker, I've done my fair share of wood inserts in hard, curly maple.... Tapping the hole is something I Never thought of. It's brilliant. Curly hardwoods are notoriously brittle and easy to split. Even when you've used the correct sized drill bits.
I have a 23 year old Warmoth neck. I've taken it on and off so many times that every time I put it back on now, I have to fill one or two of the holes with toothpicks shaved a little. The first strat was made in the 50's. Seems a little primitive to use woodscrews to hold a neck on by the wood of it. This is a much better solution.
GREAT tips here! Good call on the clamp, as well as the ez locks... The tread is much better suited for maple than the brass ones at the store that have a flat thread on them. Hands down best video on neck inserts! My good Sir... You've gained another subscriber!
I came upon this years ago when I bought a graphite neck. You have to use inserts and bolts to attach those type necks. So, I thought, I wonder if using these in a wood neck would make a difference. I found, in my opinion, it did. Better sustain and tone. It only makes sense. The tighter you can attach the neck and body, the better the vibration transfer. I've been using inserts ever since. Thanks for the video, rock on Texas toast!!!!
Great technique utilizing both the jorgensen clamp and drill press. I particularly like the drill press technique to start the tap into the neck to keep it centered!
That is a beautifully precise and easy way of doing it. I have a drill press ( or pillar drill ) as we say in the UK, and it’s a number 1 must have piece of kit to have in any workshop.
Thanks for all of the pointers. My grandson and I are in the process of building a modified Stratocaster, a first for both of us. Yesterday he was asking if I knew of a way to do away with the screws that held the neck we are using onto the body, now I do. McGuckins is not far and if they don't have it you probably don't need it anyway.
Thank you Matt for sharing your valuable experiences and your awesome channel. Texas is so proud to have you. I certainly salute you and tip my hat for you sir. Best regards from England.
Hi Matt, Took your advice on the inserts from your older video. I followed you exactly. I have put them in several necks. Works like a charm every time. I'll never go back to screws. Great work and thanks again.
Wow, I'm surprised how many people in the comments dont see the point in this. I think a mod like this should come on all expensive bolt on guitars. Great idea guys
Matt I have used threaded inserts for a lot of furniture I have built. 1st off You showed me these EZ lok inserts Awesome***** Now you taught me to tap the wood, I have never thought of that. So Thank you Matt You Rule******
I'm doing this on my tele and strat because if a neck that isn't tightened rock solid will experience small fluctuations in tuning.....and of course, torquing wood screws super hard is always risky, even in rock maple. I don't want to have to worry about it. This way I can torque the hell out of the screws, likely get better neck pocket contact (maybe a little more sustain?) and not experience any micro fluctuations in tuning while rocking out. Thanks for the video!
Omg your awesome, I saw and commented on that dude's video he insisted that the cracked neck was stronger cause he super glued it. I ended our conversation by wishing him good luck, I can't wait to see your build the neck came out sweet and the logo on it is real cool. You guys are the best cause you build like it is your own personal guitar. That dude maybe posting a fake build, maybe he could buy a professional neck from you lol
I have seen several videos, posts and even big name guitar builders doing things that I wouldn't do. It doesn't make me right or them wrong. I like the steel inserts and will continue to use them.
@@TexasToastGuitars hey I'm subscribed to a builder named johnny B guitars there a cool bass guitar build there please check out his clip he uses some well thought ideas to improve sustain and grounding, although some of it maybe overkill it really performed In the demo.
Nice work. I can definitely see the advantage of the drill press and tap. Although I was a bit concerned until you glued them in. I have used those before (but not the steel ones). They often tended to pull out or unthread themselves after repeated removal of the neck.
Great video. I'm looking into this because I am having to travel a lot and have found it very convenient to remove the neck from my strat and put it in a suitcase. I figure I'm only gonna get away with that so many times with the stock wood screws. Thanks.
Besides being super cool and nerdy, this trick is also nice for folks who remove their necks more frequently than usual for pickup swaps, fret jobs etc. Keeps the neck screws (normally coase wood thread) from wearing out the hole, losing optimum bite and introducing play in the joint. Blah blah, yadda yadda. Now where did I leave my beer?
Great info. I've used the stainless version in the past. Bolt/jam nut approach avoids f'n up a softer slot. Mechanical testing data on E-Z site provides enough info for confidence in holding capability.
Stainless steel EZ-Lok razor outer thread type work well; at least they did for me. The stainless is really resistant to cross threading or stripping for the inner 8-32 threads on stainless machine screws.Many ways. Geometry matters, use a jig , drill guide (Gator), or drill press. I agree that brass is a really bad choice, but Fender uses brass on the YJM.
Well that’s 12 minutes of my life that I’ll never get back. Real test for success is actually mounting the neck to the body but Mr. Awesome couldn’t be bothered to do that.
You should leave thread locker on it will keep the insert in the wood. If you need to remove the insert you warm it up with a hair dryer. The inserts are much nicer than wood screws.
OOOOHH! Harsh Toke! I WONDER who you were referring to? Gunsmith's Metric Wrench, love it! In the UK it's called a "Spanner". This technique is impressive, even the second time around! I like this idea for screwing legs into my C-19 Lap Steel (I'd have to come up with a washer of proper size, of coarse) (Ttt...Ggg...Ggg...Bbb...Ooo 2020 RAWKS!)
Excellent instructional video. Thanks for posting. I've fitted steel inserts to my telecasters, as I sometimes bend the necks and don't want them to come off (...again). In my opinion, inserts with machine screws definitely improve tone and feel. Much better than woodscrews.
Finally, somebody using inserts the right way. And using a drill press to tap the holes. Very cool. Hey, Matt, I couldn't find the precision metric gun smith wrench in the links below. I think you ought to send one of those to Brad...I don't think they have those in Canada.
Like someone who split the wood in the heel of the neck by forcing the insert, then tried to fix it with super glue????? You certainly made it look easy, good job!!🙂😉
I like this method, even though I have no problem with the correct wood screws into the correct size hole. My explanation of all this...The ones intended for chip board assume the chipboard will compress a lot, so if you drill your pilot hole in maple and screw those in the maple won’t compress much and the neck can crack. The steel insert has smaller threads that will crush the maple and not crack the neck, and glueing them keeps them even more solid.
I like the idea of using the tap, never saw that done before. I did see one person use a counter sink bit and that way it was cleaner and easier to but the insert just below th surface.
I’ve used this method for around 40 years, and my only critique is to suggest drilling each hole in two stages, paying attention to the exact depth of each stage. First, drill and tap the large-diameter hole Only to the minimum depth needed to allow the insert to go fully flush with the surface (it should ‘bottom out’ at that depth), when you finally install it. Next, measure the depth and diameter needed to create a concentric ‘well’ for the machine-screw to extend into, below the land for the insert. Only after these two stages are correct, it’s time to glue and install the insert. I always coat both the insert’s threads and the threads in the wood, since the act of screwing the insert in, tends to displace the liquid glue.
It’s a good idea. I used to do some machinist work back in the day. We mostly did pieces that were too big for the drill press when it came to tapping stuff, but still a great idea.
@@TexasToastGuitars Yeah the drill keeps the tap perpendicular to the neck for a straight thread. ...........free hand tapping is shady. I'm a retired Machinst myself.
Great video & yes you dont want to miss drill something on a neck or else it might end up ruining the neck from usability. Cant repair a neck screw up as easy as a body screw up.
Those inserts are made for Aluminum, not steel. Steel typically doesn't need inserts because the female threads cut in to steel are usually stronger than the bolt you would thread in it. I agree that those inserts will work fine for a guitar neck or at least "better" than a wood screw. However, the most ideal external thread for an insert would be like a lag screw, that UNC thread profile is just a bit shallow for wood. The difficulty is that lag screws are typically installed in a plain hole or no hole at all, relying on the screw to form the threaded hole rather than remove the material like a tap would. In Pine or Douglas Fir, the wood is soft enough to form the threads, especially if the lag screw is not installed close to an edge. In Rock Maple, the wood is hard enough that attempting to form threads in it can cause cracking, especially if done near an edge (like in a neck). As far as I know, no one makes an ideal insert for a Rock Maple neck. Ideal probably would be an insert where the bolt breaks before the insert pulls out but that might just cause the neck to break before the bolts or inserts fail and that might be worse. It's a complicated topic. Everyone interested should look for a book called "Screw to Win" by Carol Smith I think.
I like the tap idea a lot. I use a cap head bolt threaded into the insert and drive them in with an Allen wrench. I don't like buggering up the insert with the screw driver. I also clamp the neck edges to keep any install force from the insert from cracking the neck. But I will tap the next one cause that was way cool. I also typically run them in dry and then wick CA into the joint. Works great and no fiddly glue mess while installing.
Hey great video and I've installed nut inserts just the way you have just shown. A drill press is awesome for control. A lot of really good information. Thanks
using the tap to start the insert in the right direction is a great idea..thanks!.usually i just put the insert in mounted on a bolt that follows a predrilled guide hole..and with the insert upside down so that the groove that people think is for a screwdriver can cut the thread..much in the same way as a tap...if course it is a bit difficult to remove if you have to..but if you do it right then there should be no reason to remove the insert..and if you do it wrong..well, then the threads are probably twisted anyway and you will need to plug and redrill..
I did exactly the same on a Squier Mascis Jazzmaster, I started the thread for a couple turns with a tap then drove the insert in slot side first to act as a tap but with zero slop in the neck, superb result. Will be doing same again to a MIJ Jazzmaster this week.
Great job Matt, very clean and precise installation. I did see a “recent” installment of another builder, not naming names, and was a bit surprised that Brad did NOT use a drill press. 😉
I guess we'll have a hippy guitar with purple pebbles glued on 😈. Nah, Ben is a too nice to be trash talked. He has that metric education, that calm behaviour, I just can't.
This seems like it will make it a lot easier to take the neck off if you need to in the future. Don't know if other builders do this, but Hamer used to use inserts for direct mount pickups rather than just screwing into the wood. It's really nice if you're one of those rare guitar players that may change out pickups. ;)
You came up on my point before I got to it but. Had a problem with a screw that kept backing itself out on an older Harley. Couldn't find my locks tite so I coated the screw with a light amount of wood glue and it did not back out again until I had to pull the seat off.
Has to be said, that i tried this on a parts strat, using stainless steel bolts and inserts. Don't have a drill press, and did it by hand, and it worked like a charm. Just did it very carefully! And yes, i would definitely recommend steel inserts, although my neck is mahogany, so a little more forgiving than rock maple. I did this because as I was putting the guitar together I would be detaching and re-attaching the neck, more than once. And I have had a woodscrew in a neck strip the wood slightly, and causing it to be impossible to tighten. Belts and Braces, and all that!
Converted to mm. 5/16 drill bit is 7.9mm so call it m8 drill bit the tap is m10. I know many places don't use imperial size so with this you can get the same size the guys use
I purchased a second hand neck that fell victim to a wood butcher. I had to dowel the worn out screw holes. This neck needs a shim and when I tighten the mounting screws the tiny gap pulls the dowels out. Im going to attempt this insert method. Wish me luck.
Brad great videos. Thanks. I don't know if in the past you've talked about using wood augers as opposed to drill bits but it might be informative to the folks who follow along with you. It will help some folks do better wood working.
Dude over at Dane Nichols channel asked WHAT WOULD TEXAS TOAST DO? I told him Texas Toast would tell you if you're having a cookout and are running short on pickle relish, you can stretch it by using lime Jell-O.
@@TexasToastGuitars So glad I found your page. About 10 years ago a buddy and me spent way to much time playing guitar and hanging out in his machine shop, it was basically his man cave but a very well equipped and fun cave. He was a master machinist and a novice guitar player and I spent time teaching and jamming there and he progressed. Blah blah, anyway, we kicked around a lot of ideas and one was to do what your video explains. We used his deluxe strat for a test subject and the difference was mind blowing, everything got better. He used the type of inserts you recommend. How ever we lost touch and iv been wanting to do this ever since to my guitars. Thanks so much for the reply and the video, all the best.
Nice work! Those machine threaded inserts are much better than aluminum. No wear out or risk of loosening over time, plus, they’re impossible to strip.
I've done both several times, and the brass inserts are a crap shoot. Getting them fully submerged below the surface is "dicey". The EZ Locks work much better. I do have a tip that may help someone. Take a 1/4-20 sockethead cap screw(bolt) or a long bolt. Run two nuts up the thread until you have approximate length of the insert without going past the length. Tighten the two nuts against themselves Screw into the insert and use to "seat" the insert just below the surface. I like to bottom the insert out so it's not going to screw into the neck while tightening it up. I test the depth on the first hole carefully until I get the proper depth. Follow the above instructions on the video. Also be aware of the tip of the tap, so you don't go too deep. I ground the point off the tap to insure the point didn't push against the fretboard or a fret. And last but not least, make sure your bolts are the right length and not too long so they don't hit the bottom. If you have an old junk neck around, practice on a couple holes if in doubt.
I guess if you don't have a drill press, you can use a drill guide to make sure the holes are perpendicular. I wonder if Ben at CG has fashioned wooden neck screws for ultimate tone?
It would be great to load the inserts from the fret board side before gluing it up. Leaving a shoulder for the insert to rest. It will greatly increase the body neck connection
An added benefit you didn't mention..... It doesn't strip out as easy as the wood. If you remove the neck a lot(like for traveling), then this will last longer.
Nice vid... thx a bunch! Referring to the title, I'd like to add my "2 cents": Although bolts and threaded inserts are without any doubt far superior to wood screws, one has to consider that in case of a neck *replacement* , these inserts have to be in perfect alignment with the corresponding holes in the body. If they're not, you have a problem. This might be achievable with today's CNC technology, but was next to impossible in the late 1940s. As the idea behind the "bolt on" neck was easy replacement in case of neck damage or worn frets, and virtually *anyone* can drill wood screw holes into the neck (using the body holes as a guide), wood srews are still the industry standard... even 70+ years later. That being said, I don't think that Leo's got it *that* wrong... ;-)
Cool. I’ve never had much luck with the brass inserts with the exaggerated wood thread on the outside. I’m not sure there’s much of an advantage especially when the truss rod adjustment is at the headstock so the neck pretty much goes on and stays on but I also don’t argue about guitar voodoo with people either. 😄
@@MrJohnnyDistortion I meant that I don’t see a huge advantage to machine screws if the neck is staying on the body. If it has a heel adjustment the neck would be removed when the rod needs to be adjusted which could be regularly and inserts and machine screws might make more sense.
As a furniture maker, I've done my fair share of wood inserts in hard, curly maple.... Tapping the hole is something I Never thought of. It's brilliant. Curly hardwoods are notoriously brittle and easy to split. Even when you've used the correct sized drill bits.
Seems like I remember seeing a video recently, where someone had a little difficulty with those inserts.😂👍😎🎸🎶
You may have
Haha thx Brad for the entertaining how to video!
I also see you used a Brad point bit lol
@@xklopan 😂
But he had nice hair
I can't help thinkin that this was directed towards Brad Angove. I still love Brad's guitar work.
We love Brad
I have a 23 year old Warmoth neck. I've taken it on and off so many times that every time I put it back on now, I have to fill one or two of the holes with toothpicks shaved a little. The first strat was made in the 50's. Seems a little primitive to use woodscrews to hold a neck on by the wood of it. This is a much better solution.
GREAT tips here! Good call on the clamp, as well as the ez locks... The tread is much better suited for maple than the brass ones at the store that have a flat thread on them.
Hands down best video on neck inserts!
My good Sir... You've gained another subscriber!
Great video man. Yup, you did it right. Using good materials and careful drilling makes the job great quality.
I came upon this years ago when I bought a graphite neck. You have to use inserts and bolts to attach those type necks. So, I thought, I wonder if using these in a wood neck would make a difference. I found, in my opinion, it did. Better sustain and tone. It only makes sense. The tighter you can attach the neck and body, the better the vibration transfer. I've been using inserts ever since. Thanks for the video, rock on Texas toast!!!!
Thanks brotherman, we like the inserts and are happy to use them if people want. Having said that, we actually don't do it very often
Great technique utilizing both the jorgensen clamp and drill press. I particularly like the drill press technique to start the tap into the neck to keep it centered!
An old school machinists technique... I know because I learned it from an old school machinist HAHAHA
That is a beautifully precise and easy way of doing it. I have a drill press ( or pillar drill ) as we say in the UK, and it’s a number 1 must have piece of kit to have in any workshop.
I agree my friend
Thanks for all of the pointers. My grandson and I are in the process of building a modified Stratocaster, a first for both of us. Yesterday he was asking if I knew of a way to do away with the screws that held the neck we are using onto the body, now I do. McGuckins is not far and if they don't have it you probably don't need it anyway.
Thank you Matt for sharing your valuable experiences and your awesome channel. Texas is so proud to have you. I certainly salute you and tip my hat for you sir. Best regards from England.
"Sometimes things are cool because they're cool." You have that right Brotherman!
I love that line
Hi Matt, Took your advice on the inserts from your older video. I followed you exactly. I have put them in several necks. Works like a charm every time. I'll never go back to screws. Great work and thanks again.
Glad you had good luck with those inserts man, they won't let you down. Thanks for watching, again
You should also mention using a "Bottom Tap" and not a regular type tap... Just my 2 cents. Dig your Channel by the way!
Agreed. Shallow holes with a threaded insert would benefit from a Bottom Tap
That is a good tip
@@Bdegan68 im not familiar with a bottom tap? Can you exaggerate on what is a bottom tap? 👋
@@Vern859 Bottom taps are flat on the end unlike a regular tap which has a point, or tapered end.
@@robdefrancesco8928 so what is the advantages in using that kind of tap?
Wow, I'm surprised how many people in the comments dont see the point in this.
I think a mod like this should come on all expensive bolt on guitars.
Great idea guys
It is pretty neat
Thanks Matt. I appreciate the shared expertise. "I'm not saying this is the only way... but it's the only right way!"
And not too slow right? Might as well do it right
Matt I have used threaded inserts for a lot of furniture I have built. 1st off You showed me these EZ lok inserts Awesome***** Now you taught me to tap the wood, I have never thought of that. So Thank you Matt You Rule******
Glad I could help Scott
Which gauge strings do you use on your furniture?😂😆🤣😁
I've got these in the necks of both of my main basses, and swear by them. The necks feel absolutely solid with neck inserts.
They won't let you down, right Eddie
@@TexasToastGuitars Indeed, and my basses also have bucketloads of sustain using neck inserts. They just pull the neck in so much tighter to the body.
I'm doing this on my tele and strat because if a neck that isn't tightened rock solid will experience small fluctuations in tuning.....and of course, torquing wood screws super hard is always risky, even in rock maple. I don't want to have to worry about it. This way I can torque the hell out of the screws, likely get better neck pocket contact (maybe a little more sustain?) and not experience any micro fluctuations in tuning while rocking out. Thanks for the video!
A good idea for heel adjust truss rod necks.
Yes, you got that right
So this is what a serious guitar video looks like from Texas Toast.
We have lots of videos
Omg your awesome, I saw and commented on that dude's video he insisted that the cracked neck was stronger cause he super glued it. I ended our conversation by wishing him good luck, I can't wait to see your build the neck came out sweet and the logo on it is real cool. You guys are the best cause you build like it is your own personal guitar. That dude maybe posting a fake build, maybe he could buy a professional neck from you lol
I have seen several videos, posts and even big name guitar builders doing things that I wouldn't do. It doesn't make me right or them wrong. I like the steel inserts and will continue to use them.
@@TexasToastGuitars hey I'm subscribed to a builder named johnny B guitars there a cool bass guitar build there please check out his clip he uses some well thought ideas to improve sustain and grounding, although some of it maybe overkill it really performed In the demo.
Nice work. I can definitely see the advantage of the drill press and tap. Although I was a bit concerned until you glued them in. I have used those before (but not the steel ones). They often tended to pull out or unthread themselves after repeated removal of the neck.
Glue is the hot set up
LOVE the clamp lying on its side. Much easier than making a jig to match the fretboard radius.
Yes. Thank you. I recently felt the pain of watching someone fumble around, trying to install inserts.
You're welcome!
Leo really didn't get it wrong. He just didnt take it to the next obvious level.😃
Great video. I'm looking into this because I am having to travel a lot and have found it very convenient to remove the neck from my strat and put it in a suitcase. I figure I'm only gonna get away with that so many times with the stock wood screws. Thanks.
The treaded inserts are super cool, give them a try
Why not just get a damned flight case and do away with the hassle of dissasembly & reassembly?
Seriously, Great job, Matt. I like how much attention you pay to the details.
I appreciate that my friend
Except the little detail of the record button
@@ronaldbharvey I need a camera person
@@TexasToastGuitars And the detail of removing the red thread lock on the first hole. Haha. Just kidding. Love the channel!
This is PERFECT ! I just got 2 bodies and one neck ...still deciding what the other neck will be . I always thought there should be a better way
Hope you like it Gil
Besides being super cool and nerdy, this trick is also nice for folks who remove their necks more frequently than usual for pickup swaps, fret jobs etc. Keeps the neck screws (normally coase wood thread) from wearing out the hole, losing optimum bite and introducing play in the joint. Blah blah, yadda yadda. Now where did I leave my beer?
Good points Mark, it is a nice way to go
I love those EZ's in super hard exotic woods (cumaru, Ipe) for when I'm making furniture. I use one drop of two-part epoxy on the threads though.
That works too
Great info. I've used the stainless version in the past. Bolt/jam nut approach avoids f'n up a softer slot. Mechanical testing data on E-Z site provides enough info for confidence in holding capability.
I'm convinced
Thank you for showing these guys to use the drill press. Gets it started nice and straight. You guys rock!
Thanks man, they are easy if you do it with the right tools
The content you are putting out is incredible. Got to be one of the most informative guitar builds.
Thanks Crooks
I just realized that I get the same Zen-like feeling watching these videos as I do watching Bob Ross videos.
...these are louder.
...but still.
ravenslaves
Can’t wait to see a “Liquid HHHWhite” strat , with “Happy little accident “ pickups-
It’d make my day 🎸 🎨
HAHAHA nice, I like your style
That my friend is a real bolt on neck. Well done.
Stainless steel EZ-Lok razor outer thread type work well; at least they did for me. The stainless is really resistant to cross threading or stripping for the inner 8-32 threads on stainless machine screws.Many ways. Geometry matters, use a jig , drill guide (Gator), or drill press. I agree that brass is a really bad choice, but Fender uses brass on the YJM.
You know it brother... Do it right the first time
Great lesson for all of us garage shop builders!
Glad you liked it my friend
Well that’s 12 minutes of my life that I’ll never get back. Real test for success is actually mounting the neck to the body but Mr. Awesome couldn’t be bothered to do that.
Just imagine what you could do if you had that 12 minutes back. I'm sure it would have been terrific.
You should leave thread locker on it will keep the insert in the wood. If you need to remove the insert you warm it up with a hair dryer. The inserts are much nicer than wood screws.
Awezome video Mat! Perfect example of basic machining skills with great explanation, Chris evidently didn't put the tap handle back up! LOL
OOOOHH! Harsh Toke! I WONDER who you were referring to? Gunsmith's Metric Wrench, love it! In the UK it's called a "Spanner". This technique is impressive, even the second time around! I like this idea for screwing legs into my C-19 Lap Steel (I'd have to come up with a washer of proper size, of coarse) (Ttt...Ggg...Ggg...Bbb...Ooo 2020 RAWKS!)
Excellent instructional video. Thanks for posting. I've fitted steel inserts to my telecasters, as I sometimes bend the necks and don't want them to come off (...again). In my opinion, inserts with machine screws definitely improve tone and feel. Much better than woodscrews.
I like them too
Especially a cool old 1957 Craftsman drill press
Lord knows I love it
"Hey Man , go ahead & hit that subscribe button!! All the cool kids are doing it!!" Love it !! Awesome video , Matt !! Gotta try that technique !!
Right on Mike
Not sure if anyone mentioned it yet, but this is a great way to permanently repair stripped neck "bolt" holes.
Good point, it would work great for that
Finally, somebody using inserts the right way. And using a drill press to tap the holes. Very cool. Hey, Matt, I couldn't find the precision metric gun smith wrench in the links below. I think you ought to send one of those to Brad...I don't think they have those in Canada.
Correct me if I'm wrong but in Canada that would be called a gunsmith's SAE tool kit
Like someone who split the wood in the heel of the neck by forcing the insert, then tried to fix it with super glue????? You certainly made it look easy, good job!!🙂😉
Oh, I don't know
I like this method, even though I have no problem with the correct wood screws into the correct size hole. My explanation of all this...The ones intended for chip board assume the chipboard will compress a lot, so if you drill your pilot hole in maple and screw those in the maple won’t compress much and the neck can crack. The steel insert has smaller threads that will crush the maple and not crack the neck, and glueing them keeps them even more solid.
"In the past... week"
You're evil. 😁
Totally
Evil laff- Muah ha ha!
I like the idea of using the tap, never saw that done before. I did see one person use a counter sink bit and that way it was cleaner and easier to but the insert just below th surface.
Give it a try Scott, you might really dig it
I’ve used this method for around 40 years, and my only critique is to suggest drilling each hole in two stages, paying attention to the exact depth of each stage. First, drill and tap the large-diameter hole Only to the minimum depth needed to allow the insert to go fully flush with the surface (it should ‘bottom out’ at that depth), when you finally install it. Next, measure the depth and diameter needed to create a concentric ‘well’ for the machine-screw to extend into, below the land for the insert. Only after these two stages are correct, it’s time to glue and install the insert. I always coat both the insert’s threads and the threads in the wood, since the act of screwing the insert in, tends to displace the liquid glue.
what kind of glue? Is super glue ok?
You guys use the press to start the tap it too hey? That’s a new one. Cool tip.
I learned it from an old machinist
It’s a good idea. I used to do some machinist work back in the day. We mostly did pieces that were too big for the drill press when it came to tapping stuff, but still a great idea.
@@TexasToastGuitars Yeah the drill keeps the tap perpendicular to the neck for a straight thread. ...........free hand tapping is shady. I'm a retired Machinst myself.
Great video & yes you dont want to miss drill something on a neck or else it might end up ruining the neck from usability. Cant repair a neck screw up as easy as a body screw up.
You can do it man
Those inserts are made for Aluminum, not steel. Steel typically doesn't need inserts because the female threads cut in to steel are usually stronger than the bolt you would thread in it.
I agree that those inserts will work fine for a guitar neck or at least "better" than a wood screw.
However, the most ideal external thread for an insert would be like a lag screw, that UNC thread profile is just a bit shallow for wood.
The difficulty is that lag screws are typically installed in a plain hole or no hole at all, relying on the screw to form the threaded hole rather than remove the material like a tap would.
In Pine or Douglas Fir, the wood is soft enough to form the threads, especially if the lag screw is not installed close to an edge.
In Rock Maple, the wood is hard enough that attempting to form threads in it can cause cracking, especially if done near an edge (like in a neck).
As far as I know, no one makes an ideal insert for a Rock Maple neck.
Ideal probably would be an insert where the bolt breaks before the insert pulls out but that might just cause the neck to break before the bolts or inserts fail and that might be worse.
It's a complicated topic.
Everyone interested should look for a book called "Screw to Win" by Carol Smith I think.
Evidently Screw to Win was renamed "Carol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook" because his publisher was a pussy.
Cool man
@@TexasToastGuitars it's what I tell everyone else so if I didn't tell you I'd be a hypocrite...
@@beardoe6874 I can dig the original name
I’m a machinist by trade (amongst welding and electrical ) I’ve used the drill press the way you do many times to tap holes .
Old school, right
I am definitely going to give this a go. Makes perfect sense
I like the tap idea a lot. I use a cap head bolt threaded into the insert and drive them in with an Allen wrench. I don't like buggering up the insert with the screw driver. I also clamp the neck edges to keep any install force from the insert from cracking the neck. But I will tap the next one cause that was way cool. I also typically run them in dry and then wick CA into the joint. Works great and no fiddly glue mess while installing.
Lots of good ways to do this job
CA?
thin super glue@@MrJohnnyDistortion
@@jonahguitarguy
There's thin & fat super gloo?
@@MrJohnnyDistortion yep, out Stewart McDonald
Thanks for this.
1:05 - most articulate commentary ever in a YT video. Perfectly makes the case.
I have never been accused of being articulate before.
Sorry - didn’t mean to offend....
Hey great video and I've installed nut inserts just the way you have just shown. A drill press is awesome for control. A lot of really good information. Thanks
Thanks Donald
Thanks Matt, that is very kewl and you made it look easy...I'm gonna try it.
It is easy
using the tap to start the insert in the right direction is a great idea..thanks!.usually i just put the insert in mounted on a bolt that follows a predrilled guide hole..and with the insert upside down so that the groove that people think is for a screwdriver can cut the thread..much in the same way as a tap...if course it is a bit difficult to remove if you have to..but if you do it right then there should be no reason to remove the insert..and if you do it wrong..well, then the threads are probably twisted anyway and you will need to plug and redrill..
Old school machinist trick
I did exactly the same on a Squier Mascis Jazzmaster, I started the thread for a couple turns with a tap then drove the insert in slot side first to act as a tap but with zero slop in the neck, superb result. Will be doing same again to a MIJ Jazzmaster this week.
Great job Matt, very clean and precise installation. I did see a “recent” installment of another builder, not naming names, and was a bit surprised that Brad did NOT use a drill press. 😉
There were a few people who have had some trouble with inserts lately. This method isn't a guarantee but we have had great success with it
I feel like I have seen this somewhere before but this time I didn't cringe as the inserts were going in. Nice work Matt. 👍 😎
Cool, thanks brotherman
I’m glad i came accros your video ;)
Me too
Take this Brad! 😜
Did you see Mr. Crimson? Ben is doing Zen.... 😏
I guess we'll have a hippy guitar with purple pebbles glued on 😈.
Nah, Ben is a too nice to be trash talked. He has that metric education, that calm behaviour, I just can't.
I haven't seen that one yet, I'll go check it out
This seems like it will make it a lot easier to take the neck off if you need to in the future. Don't know if other builders do this, but Hamer used to use inserts for direct mount pickups rather than just screwing into the wood. It's really nice if you're one of those rare guitar players that may change out pickups. ;)
It is a pretty neat feature even if all it does is allow you to remove things easily
You came up on my point before I got to it but. Had a problem with a screw that kept backing itself out on an older Harley. Couldn't find my locks tite so I coated the screw with a light amount of wood glue and it did not back out again until I had to pull the seat off.
Wood glue really sticks to metal quite well
That’s a great looking shirt at the end of the video. ;)
My shirt?
My homeboy got that for me
Great tip again Matt..
Thanks John 👍
Funny, the 70's Gibson bolt on models that everyone criticized used bolts and not wood screws. They used T-nuts under the fretboard. Very solid.
Or were they?
I did not know that, very cool
Pretty cool trick Matt! Love the videos.....
Glad you like them Daniel, thanks for watching
Has to be said, that i tried this on a parts strat, using stainless steel bolts and inserts. Don't have a drill press, and did it by hand, and it worked like a charm. Just did it very carefully! And yes, i would definitely recommend steel inserts, although my neck is mahogany, so a little more forgiving than rock maple.
I did this because as I was putting the guitar together I would be detaching and re-attaching the neck, more than once. And I have had a woodscrew in a neck strip the wood slightly, and causing it to be impossible to tighten. Belts and Braces, and all that!
PS if you are watching in the UK, i bought my inserts from here... www.insertsdirect.com/acatalog/headed-stainless-woodfit-insert.html
You can do it brotherman
Converted to mm. 5/16 drill bit is 7.9mm so call it m8 drill bit the tap is m10. I know many places don't use imperial size so with this you can get the same size the guys use
Call it what you will
I purchased a second hand neck that fell victim to a wood butcher. I had to dowel the worn out screw holes. This neck needs a shim and when I tighten the mounting screws the tiny gap pulls the dowels out. Im going to attempt this insert method. Wish me luck.
Happy Birthday!!!
Thanks but my birthday isn't until November
I was texting another friend while watching you. Big fan!
@@charliecalderin9533 HAHAHA thanks man
I can definitely see the advantage if you need to take the neck off for truss rod adjustments at the heel every now and then
Would not have a bolt on neck without inserts and bolts....Thank you for the lesson
No problem 👍
Brad great videos. Thanks. I don't know if in the past you've talked about using wood augers as opposed to drill bits but it might be informative to the folks who follow along with you. It will help some folks do better wood working.
Brad?? His name his Matt. The guy who paints is Clint, or Curt, or Chad.
Great idea, whoever Brad is
@@TexasToastGuitars Sorry Mat just started watching the videos. I'll pay closer attention from here on in.
Dude over at Dane Nichols channel asked WHAT WOULD TEXAS TOAST DO? I told him Texas Toast would tell you if you're having a cookout and are running short on pickle relish, you can stretch it by using lime Jell-O.
I saw that video :)
Hey that's for steel and and and...oh wait did you already say "Bullshit!"...damn my whole argument is now destroyed...😂😂😂
i know for a fact it makes a sonic difference and it changed the feel of the guitar, all for the good. It was amazing. Highly recommend.
See... Noel gets it
@@TexasToastGuitars So glad I found your page. About 10 years ago a buddy and me spent way to much time playing guitar and hanging out in his machine shop, it was basically his man cave but a very well equipped and fun cave. He was a master machinist and a novice guitar player and I spent time teaching and jamming there and he progressed. Blah blah, anyway, we kicked around a lot of ideas and one was to do what your video explains. We used his deluxe strat for a test subject and the difference was mind blowing, everything got better. He used the type of inserts you recommend. How ever we lost touch and iv been wanting to do this ever since to my guitars. Thanks so much for the reply and the video, all the best.
Great video! Very simple and effective.
Thank you Steve
Thanks
Thanks I will try this on build I am currently doing. 😀
Hope you enjoy it!
it's totally easy
Nice work! Those machine threaded inserts are much better than aluminum. No wear out or risk of loosening over time, plus, they’re impossible to strip.
You would have to really work at it that's for sure Tom
Texas Toast Guitars You know, some people I’ve seen turn bolts with a shitload of torque. Overkill.
I've done both several times, and the brass inserts are a crap shoot. Getting them fully submerged below the surface is "dicey". The EZ Locks work much better. I do have a tip that may help someone. Take a 1/4-20 sockethead cap screw(bolt) or a long bolt. Run two nuts up the thread until you have approximate length of the insert without going past the length. Tighten the two nuts against themselves Screw into the insert and use to "seat" the insert just below the surface. I like to bottom the insert out so it's not going to screw into the neck while tightening it up. I test the depth on the first hole carefully until I get the proper depth. Follow the above instructions on the video. Also be aware of the tip of the tap, so you don't go too deep. I ground the point off the tap to insure the point didn't push against the fretboard or a fret. And last but not least, make sure your bolts are the right length and not too long so they don't hit the bottom. If you have an old junk neck around, practice on a couple holes if in doubt.
👍EXCELLENT post.
You should produce a video of your approach & techniques.
You made very important points to consider. Thank you.
Nice!! Cheers.
I guess if you don't have a drill press, you can use a drill guide to make sure the holes are perpendicular. I wonder if Ben at CG has fashioned wooden neck screws for ultimate tone?
Ol' Ben is one smart guy
These Ezloks look cool. I'll try to get them when I'll be doing my neck
They won't let you down
Excellent, referring to an adjustable spanner as a metric toolkit. Gonna remember that :)
Gunsmith's Metric Tool Kit
I like the stainless steel threaded inserts. They are stronger and harder than steel.
I have seen top mounted thread inserts. They are installed before the fretboard is attached.
That is a great way to go
It would be great to load the inserts from the fret board side before gluing it up.
Leaving a shoulder for the insert to rest. It will greatly increase the body neck connection
An added benefit you didn't mention..... It doesn't strip out as easy as the wood. If you remove the neck a lot(like for traveling), then this will last longer.
Great point and it works terrific
Nice vid... thx a bunch! Referring to the title, I'd like to add my "2 cents":
Although bolts and threaded inserts are without any doubt far superior to wood screws, one has to consider that in case of a neck *replacement* , these inserts have to be in perfect alignment with the corresponding holes in the body. If they're not, you have a problem.
This might be achievable with today's CNC technology, but was next to impossible in the late 1940s. As the idea behind the "bolt on" neck was easy replacement in case of neck damage or worn frets, and virtually *anyone* can drill wood screw holes into the neck (using the body holes as a guide), wood srews are still the industry standard... even 70+ years later.
That being said, I don't think that Leo's got it *that* wrong... ;-)
We usually make the hole sin the body slightly oversized to compensate
Sweet bro. Totally took notes. Was that a “Brad” pointy head drill bit? Ha ha. Just kidding. No flip flops?
I don't own flip flops
I thread then run thin CA into the cut threads and let it kick before the insert goes in.
that is a good idea too
Cool. I’ve never had much luck with the brass inserts with the exaggerated wood thread on the outside. I’m not sure there’s much of an advantage especially when the truss rod adjustment is at the headstock so the neck pretty much goes on and stays on but I also don’t argue about guitar voodoo with people either. 😄
Oh man, there is so much disinformation out there.
What does head stock truss adjustment have to do with increased neck pocket stability?
@@MrJohnnyDistortion I meant that I don’t see a huge advantage to machine screws if the neck is staying on the body. If it has a heel adjustment the neck would be removed when the rod needs to be adjusted which could be regularly and inserts and machine screws might make more sense.