OBS CHEVY DOOR HANDLE REPLACEMENT 1988-1998 GMC TRUCKS, YUKON, SUBURBAN, TIPS TO MAKE IT EASIER.
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- OBS TRUCKS, YUKONS, SUBURBANS AND DENALIS.
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At 2:01 you're the first person to tell the truth, and show everyone how these lousy handles are removed. THANK YOU!!!!!
glad I could help
I have a 98 Chevy truck. This video will helped, where all the other videos about this job don't show you the real challenges and how to meet them.
thank you
Very good video. Just did my father’s 1997 Tahoe on the driver’s side. Worked like a charm and didn’t need to take inner window mech out. Glad I came across this video. Thank you sir very much for your insite.
Glad it helped
Got to love youtube for the DYI er's. I'm replacing the exterior door handle on my 97 suburban. I've watched multiple videos to get me started. I noticed that you didn't show the lock cylinder being seated during assembly. I've tried to do it multiples time by connecting the linkage and attempting to slide the handle assembly in place no bananas. I find this a little perplexing as I was able to remove the handle with the linkage connected then disconnect and pull away. I'm trying to avoid completely removing the inner panel to gain access, cause that door has all the bells and whistles. It seems logical to connect the linkage and slide the cylinder from the back but there seems little room to do that from behind. I don't think there is access from the interior to push it in to seat, so I'll see if I can fit my pickle finger in a push it into place. It would have been helpful to see how that worked. Tomorrow I will try it and with luck a perseverance perhaps I'll succeed. Thanks for the tips and courage Uncle Buck. P.S. I love my Suburb it's an awesome vehicle and I just can't let it go so I chase repairs to keep it on the road.
took 2 hands and couldn't get the camera close with enough light to show it.
Out of all the tutorials yours helped me the best thank you so much bro!
Glad I could help! Have a great week
Good old GM, not a #25 or 30 torx bit, but a #27, I also enjoy the 15,16 and 18mm nuts and bolts.
Agreed, have a great week
You gotta love the odd numbers
Hmmm i just used a 30 torx bit it fits snug maybe because my truck is a 1988 Cheyenne 1500 the 27 may work but a little loose well i don't know.
thanks
Great video. I’m going to replace the window regulator this weekend on my 1992 GMC Yukon. Let’s see how that goes.
You can do it!
Thanks for the heads up
Any time! Wishing you all the best for the future
I would like to see how you got that handle back in the hole with the lock cylinder installed and connected and the door open pushrod in place. The most difficult part you skipped completely. I
i explained you have to reach in while its half way and set the lock cylinder then, hard to do when holding a camera, needed both hands LOL
@@unclebucksgarage7695 Thanks for reiterating. I'm working on an '89 K-2500 and now I discover the door handles are Dorman, they are original Chevy which might mean they are harder to get in. I managed on the driver's side, passenger side is somehow more difficult.
HAVE A GREAT WEEK
Thank You
You're welcome
My tip require some nomenclature: The outside door handle, or latch handle, is connected to a bar on the back side. I call this the latch bar. The latch bar is connected to a latch rod, and secured with a metal clasp. Here are my tips: #1 The other end of the latch bar sits in the top of the latch, the ratchet you see on the door jam that secures the door to the jamb. This latch rod is not secured, so if you pull it out it is easy to forget how to reassemble it. The lock is also attached to the top of the latch. Get a flashlight and look down at the latch. You will see the rod connected to the lock cylinder and a hole to the left for the latch rod. Insert the long straight end of the latch rod into this hole, and now the critical part, the hooked end must enter the latch arm so the the hook faces towards the jam, not the front of the car. If you insert it backwards, your reassembly will be a nightmare and when you do get it back together it will not work. #2 Also, the metal clasps only work in one direction, so if your rod will not snap into the end of the latch arm, remove the clasp and turn it around and it will work out great. #3 The white plastic clips that hold the interior door trim onto the door are brittle. You are likely to break a few, or like me, find some previous Mr. Fix It broke some, so buy extras before taking on this job. #4 No arguments, it's tricky reassembling the door handle. The support for the window is in the way, so above and beyond everything else, the latch bar has to be to the right of that vertical support and then you push it up and as out of the way as you can before you turn to the problem of the lock. The lock rotates, but it has a projection on the bottom so it will only fit in the cylinder channel in one position. I rotated it with my right hand to where I wanted it, then I eased the right side of the whole mechanism towards the car and brought the left side out. This created just enough room for me to tease the lock in with both my pinky fingers. Try it a few times and then get the smallest person in the family to do it, because it takes patience if you have big hands.
Another trick I picked up from another comment thread was use the key to drag the cylinder back into the cylinder channel. That guy's a genius. A paper clip or anything hooked would also do the trick.
thanks for the info
well this was one of my first videos on this channel and the first set of handles i has replaced in years. i still have alot to learn about boyh. have a great day
My second handle went smooth as silk, but the cylinder wouldn't latch into place. I used a dental pick to drag it forward into the channel, and it bottomed out, cut wouldn't click and lock in. Bottom line, rotate it back and forth and it will click in and your done.
Dammit. Two weeks later the key won't turn. One person posted you should take the cylinder out and ensure it's above the cylinder shaft in the replacement door handle. Sometimes they are manufactured too high and need to be filed down below the back of the cylinder. If it's too high, the bar and rod can be blocked by the rim of the shaft. Now I have to take it all apart and take a file to it because I can only unlock the doors from the passenger side. LOL
Love the tips!
Thankyou
thank you
Thank you for posting. My PS door has that hole covered (similar to the DS door hole), but doesn't have a key access there. Do you happen know if I can install a key lock on the passenger door, which doesn't have one? I have an extra cylinder lock, but it is for the DS, since the car is designed w/only one key lock on the driver side. The car is different, it is 2009 Nissan Sentra.
as long as it has the rod for the lock in the latch you should be able to
The whole purpose is to see how you take the lock off but you don't show it. Geez what a waist!
VERY SORRY, it was one of my first videos, was just trying to learn how to do this thing. hope you have a good day
I have a question for anybody willing to try. I have a 1997 Silverado. I have the outside door handle broken & the inside door handle broke. How do I open the door now to fix the door handles.
That's a good one
@@unclebucksadvice1570 lesson of the day is don’t ignore the problem and take care of the door handle ASAP.
yep, wishing you luck
any issues so far with the plastic handles vs the metal and the lock cylinders have a new key with them which means it is different from the ignition key, so you is like to old setup 2 keys 1 for the ignition and one for the door , is that correct
Yes 2 keys for the door one for the ignition. Haven't had any problems with the new handles yet.
Thank you for the information
@@HL-kb1ex you can get them keyed alike to the original ignition key by a locksmith
I DONT THINK SO
A locksmith will sell you a complete set including the ignition module. Sometimes the locksmiths can be reasonably priced if they have a shop you can go to. A lot of the ones that make house calls are too expensive
The orginal should be plastic?
thanks
I changed mine and the lock keeps getting pushed out when I lock or unlock what is causing it
File the length of the tube so that the little bracket on the end doesn't rub, should fix the problem
yes file the mounting tube
Thanks guys I will try it
Haven't got to it yet but when I do I'll post how it went
THAT IS CORRECT
Great job but that lock cylinder always slides back…
i used a pick with a 90 degree bend in it to come in behind and set the lock cylinder in
100% on the clips. at 7:00 / 10:06. i broke a clip and im looking for some but cant find any good clips. Most i find are either Rated at under 2 stars with Reviews saying "not good, Wont hold good"
One good Thing is i can use the other clip on the passenger side. New Door handle come with a clip. so i can use the old Clip from the Old Passenger door handle. do know its old so i must bend the bitch very slowly so it wont snap like the last one. Pray for me.
The new ones are not a good as the old heavy clips. just seem cheep
Do they make a kit with the rear tailgate lock included?
NOT THAT I AM AWARE OF, SORRY
Would this go for the 99 Chevy Blazer back door handles as well ????
possibly
@@unclebucksgarage7695 I hope so, because both back door handles don't open. I am hoping to just clean them both and reassemble them back on. Oh one side of the door handle is broken.
wishing you all the best
tape around the handle if your customer is a 2nd A guy :))
LOL have a great day
Why does my door lock key face up
It is in the wrong position in the handle.
Yep mine does too weird
How do u know if its up
the straight part of the key should be on top