I replaced the rear main oil seal on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine with the OEM type (Felpro) 8 years ago in 2016 & it hasn't leaked since,I used a Felpro branded one because they make them for GM & an aftermarket rear main oil seal that I bought didn't fit. I bought it with the gasket.& I fitted it into the deeper original rear main oil seal carrier housing but I didn't press it all of the way in, it's also much easier to fit the seal into the housing on a work bench then fit the whole plate & seal when you're lying on your back underneath the car. I did it how Chris Bruno did it in his LS6 powered Chevrolet Camaro that many years ago on here,I didn't use a seal aligning tool,I did all of the bolts up finger tight then I rotated the crankshaft a couple of times to seat & centralise the seal I then torque the 8 millimetre bolts up prior to tightening the long 7 millimetre bolts because if you tighten the bottom bolts up first then that can distort the seal lip & also chew out the oil seal. It also makes sure that the rear oil seal carrier housing is flush with the engine block with no gaps as well !
Hey bud - so you didn’t use the alignment tool at all ? I ordered the new seal and plate, the seal was already installed on the plate so I assume you don’t need to use the alignment tool. Thanks
That tool was pretty handy Jerry..👍👍
I replaced the rear main oil seal on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine with the OEM type (Felpro) 8 years ago in 2016 & it hasn't leaked since,I used a Felpro branded one because they make them for GM & an aftermarket rear main oil seal that I bought didn't fit.
I bought it with the gasket.& I fitted it into the deeper original rear main oil seal carrier housing but I didn't press it all of the way in, it's also much easier to fit the seal into the housing on a work bench then fit the whole plate & seal when you're lying on your back underneath the car.
I did it how Chris Bruno did it in his LS6 powered Chevrolet Camaro that many years ago on here,I didn't use a seal aligning tool,I did all of the bolts up finger tight then I rotated the crankshaft a couple of times to seat & centralise the seal
I then torque the 8 millimetre bolts up prior to tightening the long 7 millimetre bolts because if you tighten the bottom bolts up first then that can distort the seal lip & also chew out the oil seal.
It also makes sure that the rear oil seal carrier housing is flush with the engine block with no gaps as well !
3 seconds longer would have been the perfect video length 😎🔥
Hey bud - so you didn’t use the alignment tool at all ? I ordered the new seal and plate, the seal was already installed on the plate so I assume you don’t need to use the alignment tool. Thanks