A colleague of mine has issues with his glow plug module of identical build in his Mercedes c220 W204, he has a Beru GSE110. Right now you can't get any replacement part for it, as nothing gets here from China, chip shortage and so on. I will try to help him with this, as I now have seen some footage of how that thing is built generally. Better to see someone else open up a part, when they already have ordered a replacement for it, than to experiment on your own with nothing to replace it with...
To weld the chips and the terminal that are covered by silver, you have to sand several times and then clean with Isopropanol or ethanol, then use flux and a tin ball without paste, with soldering iron of 120W or higher, since it has to be soldered fast You can test the connections with one tester, going through the protective gel and the other end on the corresponding output leg inside the male connectorPara soldar las fichas y el borne que están recubiertos por plata, hay que lijar varias veces y luego limpiar con Isopropanol o etanol, después usar flux y una bola de estaño sin pasta, con cautín de 120W o superior, ya que tiene que ser soldadura rápida.Se puede probar las conexiones con un tester, atravesando el gel protector y la otra punta en la pata de salida correspondiente dentro del conector macho
+stamatios1 yeah, this type of connections should not be allowed in a car, it is way too fragile. Sadly for me, I had bought another controller. I have a spare one now I guess :S
oh man, this is modern over engineering again to make suppliers happy.. a box full of electronics just to turn on / off a few glow plugs... unbelievable
yes and you know why ? just to make glow plugs heats faster. I mean, I STILL have to wait 2 seconds, I wouldnt mind waiting 10sec instead and have a big relay instead. They had to make this box because the glowplugs are 5v and not 12v anymore. Only good thing about this is it tells you which glowplug is dead. Is 8 seconds of time worth this complexity ? I personnaly dont think so
They do more than just run for a few seconds in the winter. They after glow at lower power levels for up to 5 minutes to aid efficiency when cold. Also in many vehicles they are involved with DPF regeneration cycles and help increase exhaust temperatures when a DPF regen is required. Hence the complexity
Most of what you said is not the bulk of the complexity though. The complexity is mostly voltage conversion from 12 to 5V and the current sensing to prevent glowplug inflation and engine damage. You could still run 12v glow plugs and start them here and there as needed. And you could run self regulating glowplugs too. Also, DPF were not on trucks back then, even simpler. This was done mostly for people who dont want to wait 10 sec to start a diesel engine. It starts just like a petrol car. When usage by uneducated users leads to higher complexity and lower durability is where I draw the line. Especially when the component is so obviously built down to a very low cost with fragilie components.
It was worth a try. My glow plugs stay on for more than 3 seconds when it is cold. I also think that they stay on for a short time even when the truck starts in cold weather. My volt gauge shows something drawing a lot of power on a cold start up. I am assuming that is the glow plugs.
They do 2-3 second at full current then around 60% for a little longer on a lly. Your controller uses a relay, which can be easily replaced for 10$ . No such luck on mine. I'll see if it starts tomorrow. The code says it needs at least 2 succesfull start before it clears the code. Anyways, VERY cheaply made controller with built-in failure wires.
+Peter I same type, but yours has 2 glowplugs less in it, so they dont interchange. Yes it worked, but only after I had bought another aand ran the truck for a while. Swapped them and both work, so I have a spare
original code P0670 which as I understand is the GPCM. Now that I have "fixed" it I am getting only P0671. This denotes a bad #1 gp. If this is the case and I need to buy one plug I am Ok. I checked them all for resistance before soldering the GPCM, and plug #1 was 2.5 ohms. Also I was not getting P0671 before. interesting experiment either way. Drove it a few times today and no P0670 code, so I will pick up some silicone potting fluid tomorrow to protect my welds assuming they are still holding after inspection. They were tough to tin.
really can't understand why beru used alloy wire, cost saving compared to copper regarding the whole part would be foolish, anyway classic steel would be allright, then using alloy in vibrating conditions is not reasonable, and worst, this is a poor conductor where the joint is the weak part doomed to fail. But there should be a reason, anyone know?
really just playing around with my new scan tool, but mainly because im waiting for my new MAF sensor to arrive as ive had real trouble getting the right one or at least one that works because ive purchased 2 new ones now, the first one did not take out the check engine light even after i cleared the code. the second one looked cheapo and not only did not seem to work but also my car smoked like hell and missing about 2500 revs very bitty and smokey. i have e46 320 d, just brought fault code reader and it said oxygen sensor heater activation. so i looked and found someone had unplugged it altogether. so i cleaned the plugs and plugged back in. that took away the oxy sensor activation code, BUT then came another code saying 4203 glow control unit, it was not there before. do you think it has anything to do with me plugging back in this oxy sensor, it must be working if the code went away right? or do you think all these codes: 4BC2 maf sensor (unplugged for now), 4BA0 and 4BA1 intake air temp sensor signal (x2 of the same code?), 4501 exhaust gas recirculation control deviation. if you cant be arsed with this just say, ill understand completely. my engine has been great and its at 200 000 miles now.
+ral islegend I think the intake air temp might be revelant because of the maf sensor being unplugged. 4501 def a clogged EGR or a failed egr valve that wont open. Check the vaccum line that goes to the egr, it may have cracked. There'S two line in the vicinity, and you might have them backward. I would not mess with the intake air temp before getting the MAF fixed first. BMW sometimes a bunch of codes when it gets confused. Had a 2003 325i throw transmission codes because of bad coil packs. Get the MAF sorted, and check the vaccuum diagram on the EGR first
+Veikra thanks, i did think it might be getting confused with all the changes as i did try two new maf sensors and also the plugging in that oxy sensor as well must have really messed it up. ill just wait till i get the new one and then do vigorous tests. looks like i got one of these glow relays too so might be doing this but hope not. im hoping it will just level out because that code was not there before. cheers for the advice anyway.
+Veikra You know I had a bit of a hard time with the resolder today. it didn't look pretty note did the truck start cold. I ordered a new module :-( it was fun to try. Wish it would have worked.
Wael Sherif Good to know for the watchers. This design is also used on 3.0 jeeps and mercedes, only with 6 outputs instead of 8. So everything here applies to those as well
+jim power All 6 blown glowplugs and possible engine damage. The plugs are not 12V, but 5volts. 12V would burn them or worst blow them, sending metal parts in the cylinders. You can only do that on older diesels, those that the 12V glowplug takes like 15 secondes to heat, and then, you still need to replace them with self regulating plugs, otherwise same problem and damages
what kind of adhesive do you use to close back the controller? i am going to open my solenoid box on the M3 but i´m not sure about what use to close it again safely....
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A colleague of mine has issues with his glow plug module of identical build in his Mercedes c220 W204, he has a Beru GSE110. Right now you can't get any replacement part for it, as nothing gets here from China, chip shortage and so on. I will try to help him with this, as I now have seen some footage of how that thing is built generally. Better to see someone else open up a part, when they already have ordered a replacement for it, than to experiment on your own with nothing to replace it with...
that'S right. this part is very similar . Only it has more output on a V8 vs a V6 or L4
Good effort buddy I enjoyed your video! Viewing in the United Kingdom!
To weld the chips and the terminal that are covered by silver, you have to sand several times and then clean with Isopropanol or ethanol, then use flux and a tin ball without paste, with soldering iron of 120W or higher, since it has to be soldered fast
You can test the connections with one tester, going through the protective gel and the other end on the corresponding output leg inside the male connectorPara soldar las fichas y el borne que están recubiertos por plata, hay que lijar varias veces y luego limpiar con Isopropanol o etanol, después usar flux y una bola de estaño sin pasta, con cautín de 120W o superior, ya que tiene que ser soldadura rápida.Se puede probar las conexiones con un tester, atravesando el gel protector y la otra punta en la pata de salida correspondiente dentro del conector macho
Hmm interesting. Dont think I would have tried this myself since I wouldn't want any kind of feed back going into the ECM and taking that out too.
this worked for me, i just removed all the connections from inside going to the main power source, then redid all of them. starts like a champ -10c
+stamatios1 yeah, this type of connections should not be allowed in a car, it is way too fragile. Sadly for me, I had bought another controller. I have a spare one now I guess :S
oh man, this is modern over engineering again to make suppliers happy.. a box full of electronics just to turn on / off a few glow plugs... unbelievable
yes and you know why ? just to make glow plugs heats faster. I mean, I STILL have to wait 2 seconds, I wouldnt mind waiting 10sec instead and have a big relay instead. They had to make this box because the glowplugs are 5v and not 12v anymore. Only good thing about this is it tells you which glowplug is dead. Is 8 seconds of time worth this complexity ? I personnaly dont think so
Started on a few because you have a couple bad plugs most likely and now that the controller works it will shows codes for the bad ones.
Nah all new plugs back then, no code after repair, codes before with same glowplugs
@@Nordic_Mechanic hmm musta just been really cold .
They do more than just run for a few seconds in the winter. They after glow at lower power levels for up to 5 minutes to aid efficiency when cold. Also in many vehicles they are involved with DPF regeneration cycles and help increase exhaust temperatures when a DPF regen is required. Hence the complexity
Most of what you said is not the bulk of the complexity though. The complexity is mostly voltage conversion from 12 to 5V and the current sensing to prevent glowplug inflation and engine damage. You could still run 12v glow plugs and start them here and there as needed. And you could run self regulating glowplugs too. Also, DPF were not on trucks back then, even simpler. This was done mostly for people who dont want to wait 10 sec to start a diesel engine. It starts just like a petrol car. When usage by uneducated users leads to higher complexity and lower durability is where I draw the line. Especially when the component is so obviously built down to a very low cost with fragilie components.
It was worth a try. My glow plugs stay on for more than 3 seconds when it is cold. I also think that they stay on for a short time even when the truck starts in cold weather. My volt gauge shows something drawing a lot of power on a cold start up. I am assuming that is the glow plugs.
They do 2-3 second at full current then around 60% for a little longer on a lly. Your controller uses a relay, which can be easily replaced for 10$ . No such luck on mine. I'll see if it starts tomorrow. The code says it needs at least 2 succesfull start before it clears the code. Anyways, VERY cheaply made controller with built-in failure wires.
Pure genius repair, well done! I have one of these gone on my 330D, I might give this a go and save a fortune!
same casing on mercedes too, only 6 outputs isntead of 8, same problem.
+Geoff Myers They are german made, waffer type pcb. The WORSE kind to repair
Same module that is my Jeep with a Mercedes V6 Diesel...
Did this work?
+Peter I same type, but yours has 2 glowplugs less in it, so they dont interchange. Yes it worked, but only after I had bought another aand ran the truck for a while. Swapped them and both work, so I have a spare
original code P0670 which as I understand is the GPCM. Now that I have "fixed" it I am getting only P0671. This denotes a bad #1 gp. If this is the case and I need to buy one plug I am Ok. I checked them all for resistance before soldering the GPCM, and plug #1 was 2.5 ohms. Also I was not getting P0671 before. interesting experiment either way. Drove it a few times today and no P0670 code, so I will pick up some silicone potting fluid tomorrow to protect my welds assuming they are still holding after inspection. They were tough to tin.
+shanghaitheory nice, check the wire between glow plug and controller. Indeed, mine were also pretty tough to tin.
really can't understand why beru used alloy wire, cost saving compared to copper regarding the whole part would be foolish, anyway classic steel would be allright, then using alloy in vibrating conditions is not reasonable, and worst, this is a poor conductor where the joint is the weak part doomed to fail. But there should be a reason, anyone know?
I think the reason is to limit service life
@@Nordic_Mechanic 😂 classic.... Well, might we know someday
Wymieńcie też kabel na nowy!
ruclips.net/user/shortsW44RjsY3Eck?feature=share
Yes, replace the cable if you see any wear
I found the same damage.. BUT I can NOT get solder to stick to the silver pads. How did you get the solder to make a connection?
yes it IS a pain. clean has much of the goo as you can, and use soldering flux. it will stick with the right technique
I just tried to repair mine. Still getting a code. Maybe I should try taking it for a drive? Try it a day or two? Started real smooth.
+shanghaitheory they all start smooth until -10 -15 Celcius. Is the code about low voltage on all the plugs ?
The
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really just playing around with my new scan tool, but mainly because im waiting for my new MAF sensor to arrive as ive had real trouble getting the right one or at least one that works because ive purchased 2 new ones now, the first one did not take out the check engine light even after i cleared the code. the second one looked cheapo and not only did not seem to work but also my car smoked like hell and missing about 2500 revs very bitty and smokey. i have e46 320 d, just brought fault code reader and it said oxygen sensor heater activation. so i looked and found someone had unplugged it altogether. so i cleaned the plugs and plugged back in. that took away the oxy sensor activation code,
BUT then came another code saying 4203 glow control unit, it was not there before. do you think it has anything to do with me plugging back in this oxy sensor, it must be working if the code went away right? or do you think all these codes:
4BC2 maf sensor (unplugged for now),
4BA0 and 4BA1 intake air temp sensor signal (x2 of the same code?),
4501 exhaust gas recirculation control deviation.
if you cant be arsed with this just say, ill understand completely. my engine has been great and its at 200 000 miles now.
+ral islegend I think the intake air temp might be revelant because of the maf sensor being unplugged. 4501 def a clogged EGR or a failed egr valve that wont open. Check the vaccum line that goes to the egr, it may have cracked. There'S two line in the vicinity, and you might have them backward. I would not mess with the intake air temp before getting the MAF fixed first. BMW sometimes a bunch of codes when it gets confused. Had a 2003 325i throw transmission codes because of bad coil packs.
Get the MAF sorted, and check the vaccuum diagram on the EGR first
+Veikra thanks, i did think it might be getting confused with all the changes as i did try two new maf sensors and also the plugging in that oxy sensor as well must have really messed it up. ill just wait till i get the new one and then do vigorous tests. looks like i got one of these glow relays too so might be doing this but hope not. im hoping it will just level out because that code was not there before. cheers for the advice anyway.
ral islegend
dont forget to clear the codes everytime you change something:) Otherwise you are in for a wild goose chase
Found the same module in a Mercedes, and repaird it, hi. Thanks
Nice Job, and yes, same module except mine has 2 more outputs for 8 cylinders.
just opened mine up as it would not cold start. Found 5 of the 6 wires broken.
+affinityfunable very probable that it will work once resoldered
+Veikra You know I had a bit of a hard time with the resolder today. it didn't look pretty note did the truck start cold. I ordered a new module :-( it was fun to try. Wish it would have worked.
affinityfunable
the coating makes it very difficult to solder indeed. I had a hard time getting it to solder at first
douuuuuusssaaaannntt!
you need to check the last three single connections also, (on the left)
good to know. This one has worked throughout last winter so that's all it needed
yah sure, but in other cases the other connections needs check.
Wael Sherif
Good to know for the watchers. This design is also used on 3.0 jeeps and mercedes, only with 6 outputs instead of 8. So everything here applies to those as well
what about dumping out the electronics and installing a manual push switch in the jeep to operate the main relay hardware
+jim power All 6 blown glowplugs and possible engine damage. The plugs are not 12V, but 5volts. 12V would burn them or worst blow them, sending metal parts in the cylinders.
You can only do that on older diesels, those that the 12V glowplug takes like 15 secondes to heat, and then, you still need to replace them with self regulating plugs, otherwise same problem and damages
320d module... had 3 glow plug leads inside unbonded. I will buy a new one as I cannot clean that goo to sotter at all :(
what kind of adhesive do you use to close back the controller? i am going to open my solenoid box on the M3 but i´m not sure about what use to close it again safely....
rtv can keep oil inside a transmission, it will hold water out of that box just fine :) That's what I used, still fine