Thank you so much! we had a repairman come out to look at our Gas Vermont Castings stove and he said the Honeywell Valve needed replaced and they don't make it any more so throw out the stove and get a new one. As that solution wasn't acceptable I came upon this tutorial and we worked on the stove and cleaned it all out and filed the thermopile with an emery board. It works!
Can't say I know why that worked but glad it did. Many techs do not understand millivolt systems. However, even if the valve was bad, most valves have a general replacement valve that will work. Sometimes I growl about service techs not servicing. GFM
Thanks for a solid explanation on how these units function. Fought with my fireplace for a while... intermittent flame... pilot light would shut down while in use, etc. I was able to establish that the thermopile and thermocouple were good. Issue was thermopile was not generating enough voltage due to insufficient pilot light. Tried adjust the pilot with no luck. Ended up having to clean out the pilot jet as it became somewhat corroded. ONce that was cleaned it fired right up like it was new.
Tim, I'm having the same weak pilot light problem that you describe and I've tried adjusting the flame. I proved everything else was working using a propane torch to substitute for the standing pilot. What fireplace were you working on? Mine is a Majestic 36BDVRRN with a Sit 820 gas valve and an FP 9903 top mount pilot assembly. Was yours the same or similar? I did not have any success in trying to clean the orifice or pilot tube.
Good video. Thanks for taking the time to train and upload. I replaced a Fireplace gas control on a Hearth and Home unit. The old control had a thermocouple and thermopile. The replacement control, Robertshaw 710 series Millivolt style, did not have a screw in thermopile connection. It had a jumper wire from one of the wire terminals to the place where you normally would screw in the thermopile fitting. I take it, the voltage that operates from the thermocouple is used via this jumper wire to control the magnet on the thermopile side too. ??? I hooked it all up and everything appears to be working perfectly...but that doesn't necessarily make me sleep better.
@grayfurnaceman... Hi thank you for your detailed explanation... say if the thermopile is the issue, how do you go on replacing it with a new one... if you have a video explaining that, we would appreciate that... thanks....
@grayfurnaceman. This is by far the best video I’ve found on troubleshooting problems with gas fireplaces. The comments and your responses have really helped enlighten me! Thank you sir! Bryan
We had a problem where our fireplace would light but not stay lit. We checked the thermopile like you said and saw it was dirty. So we simply took a Scotchbrite pad to clean it and now it works perfectly. If you want to see how we did it, I posted a video on my channel. Hope this helps.
I liked the clear explanations on this one. My thermopile reads 250 mV when it’s connected to the controller and the pilot is lit. (Not the main burner ) is that too low? I feel it might be going bad because there is a significant delay for the main burner to turn on when the temperature on the thermostat drops (and it clicks on)
To anyone this is a thing: only AFTER I installed a million little pieces of rockwool and positioned new logs to make the whole thing look realistic... Did the thermopile decide to start acting up. So an hour later after tearing it all down again I was mystified how the pilot was fully on but didn't light up the rest? Then by chance while in the ON position, a lightly applied pressure to the thermopile to gently push it toward the pilot flame. Money. Seems the connection to the thermopile under it- the screw was loose and held it away from the flame by a 1/16th of an inch...😶 so I tightened by maybe a 1/4 turn. Also, at same time tried rotating the thermopile element so that a different side of it was facing the flame. Anyway maybe TBC maybe but so far so good.
New nova820 valve.. tp to tpth measures 620mv. But pilot solenoid not holding. What to check? I have another connection from pilot unit that threads in and contacts a blue wire... what's that for?
The one you asked probably a thermocouple, the connection to that wire may have oxidized build-ups need to clean. You may search videos on how to check the thermocouple
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! So here's my deal - Mendota DXV-42 gas fireplace, pilot is great (blue, engulfs the thermocouple and thermopile nicely) but burners won't come on. I tested the thermopile output at 289 mV, should be >460 mV per Mendota. I cleaned it pretty good with a scouring pad, but no change. I bought a new OEM assembly which includes the thermopile. It's super tight in there and I might have to destroy the existing thermopile to get it out of the assembly. But replacing the entire assembly involves messing with the gas line, etc (and the screws are almost impossible to get to) and I'd rather avoid that if possible. Also, not only am I having a hard time finding a Mendota approved repairman, I'm concerned that he'll encounter the same issues I'm facing. Before I go any further, is there anything else I should be considering as a root cause?
Gas fireplace that works for 15-60 minutes, then the gas shuts off. Replaced the wall switch, pile, and coupler. Still gas shuts off. Stopped by a local heating business and the owner said that the switch repair is probably the problem. I put a standard 120 wall switch. Told me that the standard wall switch has too much resistance and I need a millivolt wall switch. Went home as instructed and took the two wires and tied together. The fireplace works! Now I have to find a switch.
My 19 year Heat-n-glo has a standing pilot system with a strong pilot light. It started working intermittently. I replaced both thermopile & thermocouple. I turned it on every day for a week & now nothing. Any suggestions?
@@grayfurnaceman Thanks for your reply. I checked all the terminals and then thought maybe it was a defective thermopile. Got another new one and again, it worked for a day and then nothing. I guess nothing left to replace but the gas valve. Always something!
@@grayfurnaceman OK, this is frustrating. After changing the thermopile & thermocouple, the fireplace works great for a few weeks. Then replaced the gas valve & again it works great but only for a few weeks. Strong pilot light. I give up. Anything left to replace or any suggestions would be gratly appreciated.
First, thank you for all the great info which helped me to diagnose the issue. I have 2 quick questions. My WR brand millivolt gas valve was model was not available. Instead I replaced it with "36C03U-300 400 White Rodgers 36C03U- 333 433 MilliVolt 750 MV Gas Furnace Valve" This new valve has a 3/4 outlet instead of 3/8 for the original and as a result much higher BTU capacity. 1) Is higher BTU capacity an issue ? (previous one was low profile up to 70K BTU and this one is up to 230K) 2) The pilot light is good, but when I turn on the wall switch the pilot light becomes smaller and therefore does not ignite the burners immediately. Is this normal? Thanks
@@grayfurnaceman, Actually it does in certain circumstances....The red lead is the power lead and with certain fan/remote applications they will not work unless tp properly installed.
I guess you’re correct. There’re three terminals, tp,th-tp, and th. The thermopile powers the tp and th-tp, thus powers the pilot valve. Thermostat wire connects to tp, going to t-stat and vent spilling limit, coming back to th to power the main valve.
Hi, my thermopile with wires removed from TH/TP AND TP is 776mv. But the voltage drops to 114mv when i put wires back to TH/TP and TP. This is only with pilot light on hitting thermocouple. I tried jumpering th/tp and th but burner not on. I tapped valve lightly and burner came on. Is it a bad gas valve? Thank you.
The 114 mv number is on the low side of normal. I would clean all terminals first. You can try replacing the thermopile, but the numbers are not that far off. You may need a new valve. GFM
i have a majestic dvt39 propane fireplace. I have low flame. Service guy told me the millivolt gas valve was bad, so I purchased a new gas valve, same part #, brand etc (SIT 820 NOVA 0820651 for propane). I'm going to replace it and was just wondering if there is anything I should be aware of before I do this? It looks pretty straight forward and I've read what I can find and watched several videos etc. . But just wanted to cover all my bases before I start. From looking at it the biggest issue is going to be getting the old one disconnected. it's black iron (6in nipple) from the shutoff valve, into the valve. There is a coupling, but not sure I"ll be able to get wrenches on it to loosen it as it's right under the fireplace and it's tight in there... but anyway.... just wondering if there are any 'gotchas' to watch out for. thx in advance
Mine is just like this, I set the valve to Pilot but the pilot will not lite at all, No gas is going to it. The gas is on feeding into it. Why do you think no gas is getting to the pilot? Im thinking the valve is bad or the pilot tube/ jet is plugged? thank you
I am looking to convert my gas vent free 10.000 BTU fireplace to thermostat control. My idea is to use a MV Valve from a gas water heater, and thermopile for safety and feedback to control the valve. To keep things simple this would be a STANDING pilot system. This valve would be in series before the supplied fireplace valve. The fireplace valve would be left open. Street value of the manufactured control systems easily approach $700. Any thoughts or suggestion?
GFM. I'm having a weak pilot light problem on a Majestic 36BDVRRN natural gas fireplace with a Sit 820 gas valve and an FP 9903 top mount pilot. It is burning blue,but is not strong enough to be projecting out far enough to impinge on both the thermocouple and the thermo-pile. I proved everything else was working using a propane torch to substitute for the standing pilot. I've tried adjusting the flame using the adjusting screw on the gas valve, but there was no change. I use compressed air to blow out around the head of the pilot tube as much as I could, but that did not seem to improve anything. There did not seem to be any easy way to disassemble that unit to try to get to the orifice to check for plugging, assuming there's one in there. What would be the procedure to do that? I also tried removing the pilot gas tube from the main gas valve and was going to blow compressed air through that to see if I could remove any obstruction. I was able to get the ferrule not completely loose in the, but the small diameter aluminum tube did not seem to want to pull out of the gas valve even with pretty firm tugging on it. I did not want to damage it so I did not mess with it anymore and just retighten the ferrule nut. Is there some special trick to remove that pilot gas tube? Looking at the photos online of the replacement pilot head assemblies it appears to be just a simple tapered end on the tube that would match up with a seat in the gas valve.
There is no special method to removing the pilot tube. Sometimes tapping the tube will loosen it. There is a very small orifice at the end of the tubing at the pilot. It may be plugged. It will need to be replaced. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman , thanks for your quick reply. So I assume there's no way to disassemble that top hat assembly at the end of the pilot to access that orifice to clean it. Is that the case?
Hi! I bought a used cottage franklin propane stove. It fires up and runs fine on low setting. When i try to increase the heat nothing happens...it stays at low heat. I have replaced batteries on remote and receiver. No help! The orifices were changed from gas to propane, so they are new. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
My main burner does not turn on. I have 478 mV with pilot light ON. When I engage the wall switch-thermostat I read 33 mV. Way below the minimum requirement. Would this prevent the main burner from turning on? Does this indicate a bad thermopile needing replacement, or do I need to do more testing? Thank you
The drop in MV when the gas valve is energized indicates the thermopile is failing. Replacing the the thermopile is cheapest repair. You could also have a failing gas valve. GFM
Spent a lot of time on your video. I have my multimeter dial turned to 2 mila-vaults setting the readings I am getting is -.523 with thermostat off and -.075 thermostat on. Is this a good reading?
@@grayfurnaceman that is a no brainer just purchased a propane final burner assembly and in the main supply line the inner tube is about a inch short of the flare and is crimped closed Defective right They sent me a second one same thing the inner tube on my original burner comes almost flush with the outer tube
So about the "limit switch" shown @ 3:25. My stove shuts down after ~10+ minutes. Cools down and relights. So seems like limit switch intervention. How do I know if it's defective or if there is an actual problem? (Hearthstone Tucson 8700)
@@grayfurnaceman hmm, The device has done this in two separate locations with completely different gas supplies. Literally moved it to a new house after a few years storage interval and initially thought the issue was a loose thermostat wire I fixed. But the unit does a full gas cut/kill to everything, pilot and main. Resets and works again once it cools down.
@@dvmartel1 If the pilot shuts down, your problem is probably the draft hood limit. Means the fireplace is not venting properly. You need to find out what is causing this as you could be getting CO poisoning in the house. GFM
I have an issue where the flame above melted the igniter ... any thoughts why that would get so hot in that area?? Air flow issue? I think it’s tripping the high temp limit switch (spillage )
This does not sound right. The ignitor is made from stainless steel. The flame is not hot enough to melt it. Can you send pics? Send to Grayfurnaceman@gmail.com GFM
@@hvacworkshop4791 thanks but I figured it out… the glass was not seated properly in the frame causing the draft to push the flame down and melt the igniter
My thermopile voltage is .390 mV with the pilot on. When I turn the burner on it dropped to .180 mV. My question is it normal for it to continue to drop while the burner is on. In 17 minutes it dropped to 157 mV. My main issue is that it intermittely has shut the burner and pilot Off. Restarting the pilot always seems to work, but not the burner. One of the times when I turned the switch on, the pilot shut Off. I then cleaned the thermopile with emery cloth and everything seemed like it was working great again until the third time I tried it and the burner wouldn't light again.
The minimum mv with a load is 125 mv. I would like 500 mv open circuit but yours is not bad. Some units have an over temp limit that will shut down the pilot. Other than that, be sure all connections are tight. Hope this helps. GFM
Is there a way to wire in a thermostat on my gas fireplace mine has a gas control valve with pilot, on ,and off and another knob that controls the flame height it also has a box with a switch that says on off and auto I realized to Day there is a light switch on my wall that I can turn the burner on with when the box on the heater is in the off or the auto position or I can turn it on by switching the box to on ..... any help would be appreciated thanks
You can install a thermostat in place of the wall switch. This can only be done if the switch is wired with thermostat wire. If it is wired with 12-2 romex, it is probably a 120 volt circuit and any thermostat would have to be rated for 120 volts. GFM
Hello, I have a thermopile issue I tested with a Multimeter and open flame and as soonest I hit 400mv meter goes OF.L (Offlimit)..as I let it cool then It starts working again. Does that indicate a faulty Thermopile? My fireplace pilot would not stay lit. Thank You
+s13konrad The meter just is not set for anything above 400 MV. The thermopile can reach up to 750 MV. If the pilot won't stay lit, be sure the flame is blue and covering the thermopile. If it is ok, check for a manual reset limit in the circuit. Hope this helps. GFM
@@justdissin7340 I would first be looking at the pilot to be sure it is blue and covering the thermocouple. If so, the thermocouple is probably failing. GFM
my 95 year old grandmother was given an older U28 Regency fireplace. She wants it working so she doesn't have to have wood brought in for her wood stove. I don't know if it's hooked up right or if it works correctly. I don't know anything about gas stoves. Can I inspect it to make sure it works correctly without having the gas company turning on her gas? she doesn't want a gas bill if this fireplace doesn't work. I don't know what to check for.
grayfurnaceman I am experienced with heavy equipment vehicle maintenance so I feel I could troubleshoot it with some general knowledge of what to look for and what to test. I have a wiring schematic, but not sure how to test or when each area should have continuity/voltage or how much.
grayfurnaceman for example can I recreate a pilot/flame to make system think it had gas so it would work properly and I'd know I could get gas hooked up to it?
There's no way to be sure everything works without gas. You can use a propane torch to heat the thermopile and measure the output. Should be 500 mv open circuit. The problem is there is no way to determine for sure the gas valve opens without gas to it because it uses the gas pressure to open the valve. The good news is there is not a lot to fail. GFM
grayfurnaceman i checked and tightened all my connections. There is little info on youtube about what the voltage should be with the wall switch on. I just checked my neighbours and his reads 250 millivolts when which is on and 500 millivolts when switch is off.
my 4 year old Regency u-39 propane stove will at times stay on heating the house beyond the set temperature, as high as 90 when set at 70, this happens occasionally , I replaced the batteries in the wireless remote and receiver box, but with no luck....any ideas? thanks
I am assuming the remote is located in the conditioned space. If power is present at the gas valve when this happens, you have a problem in the receiver or remote. No power to the valve, the valve is sticking on. This is one of the hardest types of failures to find as it is intermittent. GFM
Gas fireplace;......my pilot stays lit but when I light my burner it only stays lit for about a minute or less and then you hear a "click" and the burner and pilot go out. Do you think this is a limit switch issue or?................could you share your thoughts
I had a "sit" model thermocouple with interrupt leads that was bad. I replaced it and no looking back. My fireplace is a majestic model and I ordered the part through amazon......hope this helps
Hi Gray in my job the have a Vulcan gas grill 4 burdn, 2 thermopile do not stay on the 3rd thermopile is on but do not fire the register,the 4th O.K please help me thanks
I would be looking at first wiring connection problems. The voltage is very low and connections must be clean. Also, are the pilot flames blue, are they covering the entire thermopile? Hope this helps. GFM
My pilot would not lite, tried cleaning, noticed by trying to lite at the pilot with a lighter that the lighter flame didn't even flicker, so i shut off the main leading into the control box, disconnected the line going into the box, turn the shut off value back on and no gas was coming out, what am i missing here, thank you
Pinky Floyd If you are saying there is no gas available to the gas valve, are other gas appliances working? Is there a key shut off near the fireplace? GFM
I shut off the key gas shut off, no other gas appliances, after shuting off i disconnected the gas line that goes into the main control box for the fireplace, then turned the key shutoff on and no gas was coming out. thanks you
Need Help: I have Intermittent Heatilator Gas Fire log Model# ND42361. I have two wall switches. When I turn the 1st wall switch (power) nothing happens but after turning the 2nd wall switch the pilot comes on and stays on but the burner does not. I have: Replaced the IPI electronic ignition control module & A/C Wall Adaptor. Cleaned burner holes and heat sensor (flame is close to heat sensor - heat sensor turns red) . I will truly appreiciate if anyone can let me know what other troubleshooting I can do to get the burner working ? Blessings
question: I light my pilot after cleaning my thermopile it has improved blowing blue/strong but won't light the rest of the fireplace. It's at 663mV . The sensor lights and becomes bright red...after several minutes the sensor suddenly cools off and the pilot loses it's zing, but still burns well. Any ideas?
Is there any way i can send or post pictures of what i have???? Halving trouble getting the thermostat wiring We just moved in new house and i brought the fire place with us. I really need sum help its our only source of heat. If anyone can help us i would be forever grateful
I want to know that also, but my theory is this. My Heat n Glow gas fireplace has both of them. I believe the thermocouple keeps the pilot lit and the thermopile lets the gas valve know that the pilot is lit and is safe to open and ignite the fire. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm going nuts trying to figure out why my fireplace won't light. I think I've traced it to a bad gas valve because I replaced the thermocouple, my thermopile is giving me a good reading and I tried jumping the thermopile to complete the circuit.
Every video I say about Thermo piles, makes it look so easy to replace. On my gas fireplace, it is behind the gas valve, and it’s inaccessible. I’m gonna have to call a gas guy, because it looks you have to dismantle the entire gas valve just replace it
Sometimes the high temp limit is wired in series with the thermopile. The reason for this is if the limit opens, it will drop out the pilot safety that will require an inquiry as to why it opened. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you once again. Currently on one. The guy who was to repair it. dismantled about everything in his attempt to repair and then walked away. So they called me and I said sure we can get it put back together. Some parts are missing but no big deal. Fabricate missing brackets and get fireplace running again.
Hi. If the thermocouple or Thermopile is not generating enough millivolts. Do you need to replace the whole pilot light assembly or can one just replace the thermo couple and pile?
I have a problem with my Napoleon HD40. The pilot lights perfectly every time but the main burner doesn't light. I'm not sure if the problem is with the Dexen IPI 3v electronics not sending the correct voltage to the valve, or if the Dexen valve isn't opening when told to do so. The thermopyle is sending about 480mv to TP-TH/TP. It reads about 340mv between TP and TH. With no wires connected the resistance between TH and TP is essentially infinite (open). Does this sound like a electronics problem or a valve problem? I've been trying to fix this for months . . . and it's about to get cold up here in Canada! Any advise would be appreciated.
I get the same result using either AC adapter (3v AC) or battery (3V DC). There is an inline battery relay that excepts both of these power inputs and sends it on (DC) to the main module. Page 43 (Section 8.4) of the fireplace's manual shows the full setup. It is available at mynapoleon.napoleonproducts.com/uploads/product_downloads/W415-1566_AeAf1.pdf
How do I tell if I have power going to the pilot? When I turn the wall switch on the pilot comes on. When I turn the wall switch off the pilot goes off. If the module is the problem can I bypass it somehow to test the valve? Are the measurements I gave indicative of a normal, or defective, valve? If normal, I'll buy a new module for $100. If defective, why would I replace the module when that's not the problem? Or do I need to do more measurements on the valve for you to know for sure?
If the pilot comes on when it is powered up, it is probably not proving the pilot is lit. I believe there is a flame rod on the pilot assembly. Try cleaning it with sandpaper. GFM
Gray Furnaceman I always have to manually turn on my fireplace it has the thermopile system I use the igniter to turn on the pilot then I wait for the fireplace to light up sometimes it takes days and then it just keeps burning until I close the gas valve any thoughts of what I can do to correct this problem before calling in a repairman
In this case, you are using the "hopscotch" method to find the open. A little complicated to explain here. Try Electric troubleshoot with the voltmeter in my channel. There are 3 videos that may help. GFM
I enjoy your videos man. You've got some great knowledge on your channel. See if you can help me, please. I just bought a house with a propane fireplace. It's run off of propane, with a Sit millivolt valve. The pilot light looks great, all blue flame. I can not get the burner to come on. The fireplace has never been used, house was built in 2014. Should there be electric an electric switch to give it power? I've replaced the thermopile, only to get the same response- No burner flame. ____HELP!
Most of these fireplaces have a switch inside that can turn it on. Additionally, there may be a wall switch (or thermostat) that can be used to turn it on. Also, be sure the gas valve is in the "on" position. Hope this helps. GFM
grayfurnaceman I just figured out, by chance, that there needs to be a jumper wire from the TH to the TP/TH. I'm in the process of installing this. Could a regular light switch work? Will 16 gauge wire work? I'm thinking about putting a dimmer light switch on it, would that be feasible?
my furnace start only when the thermostat is all the way up, and then it sounds like it lit up then immediately it goes out. then the gas smell. what is wrong with it ???
Hi Gary, nice video. I have a gas fireplace that is currently hooked up to a light switch. So "on" the fire will light... "off" and the fire goes out. The problem is I am scared we will forget to leave it on accidentally while out of town. I am attempting to replace the light switch with an analog low voltage thermostat so the fireplace will turn off at a max of 80 degrees. I hooked up the red and white wires from the switch to the thermostat from honeywell and nothing happened. Any guess as to why? Is the voltage not quite right for the model thermostat (CT87K)? or is the wiring at the control valve not set up for thermostat control? Seems like mine is wired just slightly different. Thanks for any help!!
@@grayfurnaceman just curious I have the very same issue I have a brand new Honeywell CT 33a if I touch the red and white wires together the heater turns on and stays on but if I hook up the red and white wires to the thermostat and put the temperature to 90 the magnet clicks over but the heater never turns on any ideas?
very confusing, to me, markings on gas valve terminals. Not your doing. Also see 4:03, I don't see a mark for the gas valve connection. Otherwise thanks for all information.
Completely useless video, doesn't explain anything. He mentions a bunch of facts but doesn't explain any of them. And why is there a plastic bag stuffed in the bottom of the fireplace?? You won't learn anything from this video except that there's something called a doohickey.
Thank you so much! we had a repairman come out to look at our Gas Vermont Castings stove and he said the Honeywell Valve needed replaced and they don't make it any more so throw out the stove and get a new one. As that solution wasn't acceptable I came upon this tutorial and we worked on the stove and cleaned it all out and filed the thermopile with an emery board. It works!
Can't say I know why that worked but glad it did. Many techs do not understand millivolt systems. However, even if the valve was bad, most valves have a general replacement valve that will work. Sometimes I growl about service techs not servicing.
GFM
Thanks for a solid explanation on how these units function. Fought with my fireplace for a while... intermittent flame... pilot light would shut down while in use, etc. I was able to establish that the thermopile and thermocouple were good. Issue was thermopile was not generating enough voltage due to insufficient pilot light. Tried adjust the pilot with no luck. Ended up having to clean out the pilot jet as it became somewhat corroded. ONce that was cleaned it fired right up like it was new.
Tim, I'm having the same weak pilot light problem that you describe and I've tried adjusting the flame. I proved everything else was working using a propane torch to substitute for the standing pilot.
What fireplace were you working on? Mine is a Majestic 36BDVRRN with a Sit 820 gas valve and an FP 9903 top mount pilot assembly.
Was yours the same or similar? I did not have any success in trying to clean the orifice or pilot tube.
Good video. Thanks for taking the time to train and upload.
I replaced a Fireplace gas control on a Hearth and Home unit. The old control had a thermocouple and thermopile. The replacement control, Robertshaw 710 series Millivolt style, did not have a screw in thermopile connection. It had a jumper wire from one of the wire terminals to the place where you normally would screw in the thermopile fitting.
I take it, the voltage that operates from the thermocouple is used via this jumper wire to control the magnet on the thermopile side too. ???
I hooked it all up and everything appears to be working perfectly...but that doesn't necessarily make me sleep better.
@grayfurnaceman... Hi thank you for your detailed explanation...
say if the thermopile is the issue, how do you go on replacing it with a new one... if you have a video explaining that, we would appreciate that... thanks....
@grayfurnaceman. This is by far the best video I’ve found on troubleshooting problems with gas fireplaces. The comments and your responses have really helped enlighten me!
Thank you sir!
Bryan
Brother. You saved me thousands. Thank you!!!!!
If somebody tells you they don't work on this type of system and try to sell you a new system, never use that company again.
Thanks. Really helped me understand what I was looking at. You are very clear and easy to understand.
We had a problem where our fireplace would light but not stay lit. We checked the thermopile like you said and saw it was dirty. So we simply took a Scotchbrite pad to clean it and now it works perfectly. If you want to see how we did it, I posted a video on my channel. Hope this helps.
Your videos are very helpful, thanks very much for your efforts!
+joeventura1 Welcome
GFM
I liked the clear explanations on this one. My thermopile reads 250 mV when it’s connected to the controller and the pilot is lit. (Not the main burner ) is that too low? I feel it might be going bad because there is a significant delay for the main burner to turn on when the temperature on the thermostat drops (and it clicks on)
I would expect 500MV open circuit.
GFM
What is the other red and brown wire attaching on the bottom right side? Where did these wires come from? What do they do?
To anyone this is a thing: only AFTER I installed a million little pieces of rockwool and positioned new logs to make the whole thing look realistic...
Did the thermopile decide to start acting up.
So an hour later after tearing it all down again I was mystified how the pilot was fully on but didn't light up the rest?
Then by chance while in the ON position, a lightly applied pressure to the thermopile to gently push it toward the pilot flame.
Money.
Seems the connection to the thermopile under it- the screw was loose and held it away from the flame by a 1/16th of an inch...😶 so I tightened by maybe a 1/4 turn. Also, at same time tried rotating the thermopile element so that a different side of it was facing the flame.
Anyway maybe TBC maybe but so far so good.
New nova820 valve.. tp to tpth measures 620mv. But pilot solenoid not holding. What to check? I have another connection from pilot unit that threads in and contacts a blue wire... what's that for?
You may have a manual reset draft hood limit switch.
GFM
The one you asked probably a thermocouple, the connection to that wire may have oxidized build-ups need to clean. You may search videos on how to check the thermocouple
This helped us today! Thank you so much for the video!
Welcome
GFM
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! So here's my deal - Mendota DXV-42 gas fireplace, pilot is great (blue, engulfs the thermocouple and thermopile nicely) but burners won't come on. I tested the thermopile output at 289 mV, should be >460 mV per Mendota. I cleaned it pretty good with a scouring pad, but no change. I bought a new OEM assembly which includes the thermopile. It's super tight in there and I might have to destroy the existing thermopile to get it out of the assembly. But replacing the entire assembly involves messing with the gas line, etc (and the screws are almost impossible to get to) and I'd rather avoid that if possible. Also, not only am I having a hard time finding a Mendota approved repairman, I'm concerned that he'll encounter the same issues I'm facing. Before I go any further, is there anything else I should be considering as a root cause?
I would make sure all electrical connections are clean and tight.
GFM
Gas fireplace that works for 15-60 minutes, then the gas shuts off. Replaced the wall switch, pile, and coupler. Still gas shuts off. Stopped by a local heating business and the owner said that the switch repair is probably the problem. I put a standard 120 wall switch. Told me that the standard wall switch has too much resistance and I need a millivolt wall switch. Went home as instructed and took the two wires and tied together. The fireplace works! Now I have to find a switch.
That is probably correct. I would try using a millivolt thermostat.
GFM
My 19 year Heat-n-glo has a standing pilot system with a strong pilot light. It started working intermittently. I replaced both thermopile & thermocouple. I turned it on every day for a week & now nothing. Any suggestions?
I would first clean and tighten all wiring terminals. If no luck, Probable gas valve failure.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thanks for your reply. I checked all the terminals and then thought maybe it was a defective thermopile. Got another new one and again, it worked for a day and then nothing. I guess nothing left to replace but the gas valve. Always something!
@@MrJonreed7 It appears so.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman OK, this is frustrating. After changing the thermopile & thermocouple, the fireplace works great for a few weeks. Then replaced the gas valve & again it works great but only for a few weeks. Strong pilot light. I give up. Anything left to replace or any suggestions would be gratly appreciated.
Hi, I have a very similar gas valve. But I can't find the adjustment screw to adjust manifold gas pressure. Is there one? Thanks
Great Video, Thank You, could you tell me what is the Low, High Knob? it lets more air for better combustion?
The low high knob is for the size of the fire.
GFM
My thermopile is connected to TPTH and TH. Is this incorrect? The wiring to the on/off switch matches on the back
First, thank you for all the great info which helped me to diagnose the issue.
I have 2 quick questions.
My WR brand millivolt gas valve was model was not available. Instead I replaced it with "36C03U-300 400 White Rodgers 36C03U- 333 433 MilliVolt 750 MV Gas Furnace Valve"
This new valve has a 3/4 outlet instead of 3/8 for the original and as a result much higher BTU capacity.
1) Is higher BTU capacity an issue ? (previous one was low profile up to 70K BTU and this one is up to 230K)
2) The pilot light is good, but when I turn on the wall switch the pilot light becomes smaller and therefore does not ignite the burners immediately. Is this normal?
Thanks
Hey Mr.Furnace, The red lead should be th/tp and the white to tp on the valve...If you don't know why....look it up!
As the millivolt system only uses 2 wires, it makes no difference.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman, Actually it does in certain circumstances....The red lead is the power lead and with certain fan/remote applications they will not work unless tp properly installed.
@@ericwright1561 It would be interesting to see an application where you use millivolts to control an fan, etc.
GFM
I guess you’re correct. There’re three terminals, tp,th-tp, and th. The thermopile powers the tp and th-tp, thus powers the pilot valve. Thermostat wire connects to tp, going to t-stat and vent spilling limit, coming back to th to power the main valve.
@@grayfurnaceman sky tech 180 cfm fan kit... fan control unit is set by red wire of thermopile.
Hi, my thermopile with wires removed from TH/TP AND TP is 776mv. But the voltage drops to 114mv when i put wires back to TH/TP and TP. This is only with pilot light on hitting thermocouple. I tried jumpering th/tp and th but burner not on. I tapped valve lightly and burner came on. Is it a bad gas valve? Thank you.
The 114 mv number is on the low side of normal. I would clean all terminals first. You can try replacing the thermopile, but the numbers are not that far off. You may need a new valve.
GFM
i have a majestic dvt39 propane fireplace. I have low flame. Service guy told me the millivolt gas valve was bad, so I purchased a new gas valve, same part #, brand etc (SIT 820 NOVA 0820651 for propane). I'm going to replace it and was just wondering if there is anything I should be aware of before I do this? It looks pretty straight forward and I've read what I can find and watched several videos etc. .
But just wanted to cover all my bases before I start. From looking at it the biggest issue is going to be getting the old one disconnected. it's black iron (6in nipple) from the shutoff valve, into the valve. There is a coupling, but not sure I"ll be able to get wrenches on it to loosen it as it's right under the fireplace and it's tight in there... but anyway.... just wondering if there are any 'gotchas' to watch out for. thx in advance
Try this video: ruclips.net/video/g8jMJIBVRGo/видео.html Its for a gas furnace but the basics are the same.
GFM
Mine is just like this, I set the valve to Pilot but the pilot
will not lite at all, No gas is going to it. The gas is on feeding into
it. Why do you think no gas is getting to the pilot? Im thinking the valve is bad or the pilot tube/ jet is plugged? thank you
you may have to push the pilot knob down and then wait 45 seconds and try to light pilot, if it lights continue to hold knob for 1 minute
I am looking to convert my gas vent free 10.000 BTU fireplace to thermostat control. My idea is to use a MV Valve from a gas water heater, and thermopile for safety and feedback to control the valve. To keep things simple this would be a STANDING pilot system. This valve would be in series before the supplied fireplace valve. The fireplace valve would be left open. Street value of the manufactured control systems easily approach $700. Any thoughts or suggestion?
Do all thermopile systems contain electromechanical safety controls to shut off the gas if the pilot light isn't lit?
Everything made in the last 70 years does have pilot safety controls.
GFM
Where are you located I would like to learn from you.
I would like to be able to fix fireplaces.
GFM. I'm having a weak pilot light problem on a Majestic 36BDVRRN natural gas fireplace with a Sit 820 gas valve and an FP 9903 top mount pilot. It is burning blue,but is not strong enough to be projecting out far enough to impinge on both the thermocouple and the thermo-pile. I proved everything else was working using a propane torch to substitute for the standing pilot.
I've tried adjusting the flame using the adjusting screw on the gas valve, but there was no change. I use compressed air to blow out around the head of the pilot tube as much as I could, but that did not seem to improve anything. There did not seem to be any easy way to disassemble that unit to try to get to the orifice to check for plugging, assuming there's one in there. What would be the procedure to do that?
I also tried removing the pilot gas tube from the main gas valve and was going to blow compressed air through that to see if I could remove any obstruction. I was able to get the ferrule not completely loose in the, but the small diameter aluminum tube did not seem to want to pull out of the gas valve even with pretty firm tugging on it. I did not want to damage it so I did not mess with it anymore and just retighten the ferrule nut. Is there some special trick to remove that pilot gas tube? Looking at the photos online of the replacement pilot head assemblies it appears to be just a simple tapered end on the tube that would match up with a seat in the gas valve.
There is no special method to removing the pilot tube. Sometimes tapping the tube will loosen it. There is a very small orifice at the end of the tubing at the pilot. It may be plugged. It will need to be replaced.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman , thanks for your quick reply.
So I assume there's no way to disassemble that top hat assembly at the end of the pilot to access that orifice to clean it. Is that the case?
No, it is easily disassembled. You may have to do some disassembly to get to it.
GFM
Hi! I bought a used cottage franklin propane stove. It fires up and runs fine on low setting. When i try to increase the heat nothing happens...it stays at low heat. I have replaced batteries on remote and receiver. No help! The orifices were changed from gas to propane, so they are new.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
My main burner does not turn on. I have 478 mV with pilot light ON. When I engage the wall switch-thermostat I read 33 mV. Way below the minimum requirement. Would this prevent the main burner from turning on? Does this indicate a bad thermopile needing replacement, or do I need to do more testing? Thank you
The drop in MV when the gas valve is energized indicates the thermopile is failing. Replacing the the thermopile is cheapest repair. You could also have a failing gas valve.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thermopile replaced, fireplace is working again! Hardest part was creating clearance to remove the thermopile. Thank you
Spent a lot of time on your video. I have my multimeter dial turned to 2 mila-vaults setting the readings I am getting is -.523 with thermostat off and -.075 thermostat on. Is this a good reading?
The .075 is a bit low but probably ok. Should be .125. Be sure all connections are clean and tight.
GFM
Hi maybe you can help me the main propane supply line for a hot water tank burner assembly
What should be in the tube
Propane
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman that is a no brainer just purchased a propane final burner assembly and in the main supply line the inner tube is about a inch short of the flare and is crimped closed
Defective right
They sent me a second one same thing the inner tube on my original burner comes almost flush with the outer tube
@@hunter-rl8dt Send some pics to Grayfurnaceman@gmail.com
GFM
So about the "limit switch" shown @ 3:25. My stove shuts down after ~10+ minutes. Cools down and relights. So seems like limit switch intervention. How do I know if it's defective or if there is an actual problem? (Hearthstone Tucson 8700)
First, I have found very few limits that are defective. I would check the gas input. Could be overfired.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman hmm, The device has done this in two separate locations with completely different gas supplies. Literally moved it to a new house after a few years storage interval and initially thought the issue was a loose thermostat wire I fixed. But the unit does a full gas cut/kill to everything, pilot and main. Resets and works again once it cools down.
@@dvmartel1 If the pilot shuts down, your problem is probably the draft hood limit. Means the fireplace is not venting properly. You need to find out what is causing this as you could be getting CO poisoning in the house.
GFM
Great video!
I have an issue where the flame above melted the igniter ... any thoughts why that would get so hot in that area?? Air flow issue? I think it’s tripping the high temp limit switch (spillage )
This does not sound right. The ignitor is made from stainless steel. The flame is not hot enough to melt it. Can you send pics? Send to Grayfurnaceman@gmail.com
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman sorry for the confusion, I’m referring to the piezo push button igniter (black plastic)
@@jbh.6257 I think somehow gas went to wrong direction. Better take burner apart and clean every piece, brush and blow.
@@hvacworkshop4791 thanks but I figured it out… the glass was not seated properly in the frame causing the draft to push the flame down and melt the igniter
My thermopile voltage is .390 mV with the pilot on. When I turn the burner on it dropped to .180 mV. My question is it normal for it to continue to drop while the burner is on. In 17 minutes it dropped to 157 mV.
My main issue is that it intermittely has shut the burner and pilot Off. Restarting the pilot always seems to work, but not the burner. One of the times when I turned the switch on, the pilot shut Off.
I then cleaned the thermopile with emery cloth and everything seemed like it was working great again until the third time I tried it and the burner wouldn't light again.
The minimum mv with a load is 125 mv. I would like 500 mv open circuit but yours is not bad. Some units have an over temp limit that will shut down the pilot. Other than that, be sure all connections are tight. Hope this helps.
GFM
Thanks so much for the quick response and information.
The hi/lo control valve on a Robert Shaw is stuck on LO! How does one fix that issue?
Scott Waltemeyer This one will probably only be solved by replacement of the valve.
GFM
Or maybe he needs a bigger boat-
@@dtrrtd774 that is hilarious. Thanks for brightening my night as I’m trying to figure out my fireplace.
I’m still chuckling 👍
Is there a way to wire in a thermostat on my gas fireplace mine has a gas control valve with pilot, on ,and off and another knob that controls the flame height it also has a box with a switch that says on off and auto I realized to
Day there is a light switch on my wall that I can turn the burner on with when the box on the heater is in the off or the auto position or I can turn it on by switching the box to on ..... any help would be appreciated thanks
You can install a thermostat in place of the wall switch. This can only be done if the switch is wired with thermostat wire. If it is wired with 12-2 romex, it is probably a 120 volt circuit and any thermostat would have to be rated for 120 volts.
GFM
grayfurnaceman thanks yes it is wired with thermostat wire I’m going to get one with the remote control with built in thermostat. Thanks again
Hello, I have a thermopile issue I tested with a Multimeter and open flame and as soonest I hit 400mv meter goes OF.L (Offlimit)..as I let it cool then It starts working again. Does that indicate a faulty Thermopile? My fireplace pilot would not stay lit. Thank You
+s13konrad The meter just is not set for anything above 400 MV. The thermopile can reach up to 750 MV. If the pilot won't stay lit, be sure the flame is blue and covering the thermopile. If it is ok, check for a manual reset limit in the circuit. Hope this helps.
GFM
My bradford white water heater is giving me a code led probe,will that be the thermopile?
I am not sure what a "code led probe" is. Do you have an error code number?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman i got a bradford white surrender water heater & im getting 2 flashes, looking at water heater codes it means led prode
@@grayfurnaceman yes is a 2
@@justdissin7340 I would first be looking at the pilot to be sure it is blue and covering the thermocouple. If so, the thermocouple is probably failing.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thanks for your replies, it has that thermopile one,ill have to check mv on it
my 95 year old grandmother was given an older U28 Regency fireplace. She wants it working so she doesn't have to have wood brought in for her wood stove. I don't know if it's hooked up right or if it works correctly. I don't know anything about gas stoves. Can I inspect it to make sure it works correctly without having the gas company turning on her gas? she doesn't want a gas bill if this fireplace doesn't work. I don't know what to check for.
I would get a professional for this one.
GFM
grayfurnaceman I am experienced with heavy equipment vehicle maintenance so I feel I could troubleshoot it with some general knowledge of what to look for and what to test. I have a wiring schematic, but not sure how to test or when each area should have continuity/voltage or how much.
grayfurnaceman for example can I recreate a pilot/flame to make system think it had gas so it would work properly and I'd know I could get gas hooked up to it?
There's no way to be sure everything works without gas. You can use a propane torch to heat the thermopile and measure the output. Should be 500 mv open circuit. The problem is there is no way to determine for sure the gas valve opens without gas to it because it uses the gas pressure to open the valve. The good news is there is not a lot to fail.
GFM
Thank you so much. This is what I was looking for.
Very helpful. Thanks
What if the voltage is 550 mvolts with switch off and only 10 millivolts with switch on. Does that mean my thermopile is bad?
Either that or you have a bad connection.
GFM
grayfurnaceman i checked and tightened all my connections. There is little info on youtube about what the voltage should be with the wall switch on. I just checked my neighbours and his reads 250 millivolts when which is on and 500 millivolts when switch is off.
@@truenorthmuskoka9077 The 250 is very good.
GFM
Hi, Why do some have a Thermo couple & a thermopile?
Some units will not shut down in the required 3 minutes using just a thermopile. The thermocouple insures it will shut down.
GFM
I found problem thanks 👍
my 4 year old Regency u-39 propane stove will at times stay on heating the house beyond the set temperature, as high as 90 when set at 70, this happens occasionally , I replaced the batteries in the wireless remote and receiver box, but with no luck....any ideas? thanks
I am assuming the remote is located in the conditioned space. If power is present at the gas valve when this happens, you have a problem in the receiver or remote. No power to the valve, the valve is sticking on. This is one of the hardest types of failures to find as it is intermittent.
GFM
thanks for the info, i'll check it out
Gas fireplace;......my pilot stays lit but when I light my burner it only stays lit for about a minute or less and then you hear a "click" and the burner and pilot go out. Do you think this is a limit switch issue or?................could you share your thoughts
Mine to Gary. Did you find what was wrong?
I had a "sit" model thermocouple with interrupt leads that was bad. I replaced it and no looking back. My fireplace is a majestic model and I ordered the part through amazon......hope this helps
Hi my fireplace has control knob pilot position not push in how can fix
66
Hi Gray in my job the have a Vulcan gas grill 4 burdn, 2 thermopile do not stay on the 3rd thermopile is on but do not fire the register,the 4th O.K please help me thanks
I would be looking at first wiring connection problems. The voltage is very low and connections must be clean. Also, are the pilot flames blue, are they covering the entire thermopile? Hope this helps.
GFM
My pilot would not lite, tried cleaning, noticed by trying to lite at the pilot with a lighter that the lighter flame didn't even flicker, so i shut off the main leading into the control box, disconnected the line going into the box, turn the shut off value back on and no gas was coming out, what am i missing here, thank you
Pinky Floyd Have you put the gas valve knob in the pilot position and pressed down the knob while lighting?
GFM
oh yes, tried many times, as many as 30 times
Pinky Floyd If you are saying there is no gas available to the gas valve, are other gas appliances working? Is there a key shut off near the fireplace?
GFM
I shut off the key gas shut off, no other gas appliances, after shuting off i disconnected the gas line that goes into the main control box for the fireplace, then turned the key shutoff on and no gas was coming out. thanks you
Pinky Floyd You have a supply problem. Have you paid your bill?
GFM
I turned on and it stayed the same. Does that mean it’s broken?
I will need a lot more than that. Turned what on?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman I actually fixed it. Haha thanks!
Need Help: I have Intermittent Heatilator Gas Fire log Model# ND42361. I have two wall switches. When I turn the 1st wall switch (power) nothing happens but after turning the 2nd wall switch the pilot comes on and stays on but the burner does not. I have: Replaced the IPI electronic ignition control module & A/C Wall Adaptor. Cleaned burner holes and heat sensor (flame is close to heat sensor - heat sensor turns red) . I will truly appreiciate if anyone can let me know what other troubleshooting I can do to get the burner working ? Blessings
question: I light my pilot after cleaning my thermopile it has improved blowing blue/strong but won't light the rest of the fireplace. It's at 663mV . The sensor lights and becomes bright red...after several minutes the sensor suddenly cools off and the pilot loses it's zing, but still burns well. Any ideas?
Why does my natural gas fireplace vent free insert thermostat work backwards
Maybe you have a cooling thermostat.
GFM
does the polarity of the thermopile matters?
+eduardo arellano barreto No
GFM
Is there any way i can send or post pictures of what i have????
Halving trouble getting the thermostat wiring
We just moved in new house and i brought the fire place with us.
I really need sum help its our only source of heat.
If anyone can help us i would be forever grateful
Anyone can explain to me why some pilot assemblies have thermocouple only, some have thermopile only and some have both of them???? Thanks
I want to know that also, but my theory is this. My Heat n Glow gas fireplace has both of them. I believe the thermocouple keeps the pilot lit and the thermopile lets the gas valve know that the pilot is lit and is safe to open and ignite the fire. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm going nuts trying to figure out why my fireplace won't light. I think I've traced it to a bad gas valve because I replaced the thermocouple, my thermopile is giving me a good reading and I tried jumping the thermopile to complete the circuit.
Every video I say about Thermo piles, makes it look so easy to replace. On my gas fireplace, it is behind the gas valve, and it’s inaccessible. I’m gonna have to call a gas guy, because it looks you have to dismantle the entire gas valve just replace it
How do I supply power to my heat and glo natrual gas fireplace? It won't run unless it has battery's in
Are you trying to run the fireplace from the house power?
GFM
Yes because it keeps killing the back up batteries so do I run a 14/2 110v to the board
If the board has provision for 120 volt power, the 14/2 is ok.
GFM
Will it say on the board because the instructions that were given to us were useless
grayfurnaceman yes because right now it's only works with the back up battery's so it kills the batteries
Gray is the safety always wired in line with the thermostat? To me I would think so. If not could you explain the reason it would not be please.
Sometimes the high temp limit is wired in series with the thermopile. The reason for this is if the limit opens, it will drop out the pilot safety that will require an inquiry as to why it opened.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you once again. Currently on one. The guy who was to repair it. dismantled about everything in his attempt to repair and then walked away. So they called me and I said sure we can get it put back together. Some parts are missing but no big deal. Fabricate missing brackets and get fireplace running again.
Hi. If the thermocouple or Thermopile is not generating enough millivolts. Do you need to replace the whole pilot light assembly or can one just replace the thermo couple and pile?
+Juan Nel If the flame is blue, the thermopile has probably failed.
GFM
I have a problem with my Napoleon HD40. The pilot lights perfectly every time but the main burner doesn't light. I'm not sure if the problem is with the Dexen IPI 3v electronics not sending the correct voltage to the valve, or if the Dexen valve isn't opening when told to do so. The thermopyle is sending about 480mv to TP-TH/TP. It reads about 340mv between TP and TH. With no wires connected the resistance between TH and TP is essentially infinite (open). Does this sound like a electronics problem or a valve problem? I've been trying to fix this for months . . . and it's about to get cold up here in Canada! Any advise would be appreciated.
I would be checking the ignition control for input power. Power in no power out control failed.
GFM
I get the same result using either AC adapter (3v AC) or battery (3V DC). There is an inline battery relay that excepts both of these power inputs and sends it on (DC) to the main module. Page 43 (Section 8.4) of the fireplace's manual shows the full setup. It is available at mynapoleon.napoleonproducts.com/uploads/product_downloads/W415-1566_AeAf1.pdf
If you have power to the ignition control, but no power going to the pilot, and the wiring to the pilot is ok, the control has failed.
GFM
How do I tell if I have power going to the pilot? When I turn the wall switch on the pilot comes on. When I turn the wall switch off the pilot goes off. If the module is the problem can I bypass it somehow to test the valve? Are the measurements I gave indicative of a normal, or defective, valve? If normal, I'll buy a new module for $100. If defective, why would I replace the module when that's not the problem? Or do I need to do more measurements on the valve for you to know for sure?
If the pilot comes on when it is powered up, it is probably not proving the pilot is lit. I believe there is a flame rod on the pilot assembly. Try cleaning it with sandpaper.
GFM
Gray Furnaceman
I always have to manually turn on my fireplace it has the thermopile system
I use the igniter to turn on the pilot then I wait for the fireplace to light up sometimes it takes days and then it just keeps burning until I close the gas valve any thoughts of what I can do to correct this problem before calling in a repairman
How do you know you have a open circuit when your in mV, wouldn't your meter have to be set to ohms to perform a proper resistance check?
In this case, you are using the "hopscotch" method to find the open. A little complicated to explain here. Try Electric troubleshoot with the voltmeter in my channel. There are 3 videos that may help.
GFM
I enjoy your videos man. You've got some great knowledge on your channel. See if you can help me, please.
I just bought a house with a propane fireplace. It's run off of propane, with a Sit millivolt valve. The pilot light looks great, all blue flame. I can not get the burner to come on.
The fireplace has never been used, house was built in 2014. Should there be electric an electric switch to give it power? I've replaced the thermopile, only to get the same response- No burner flame. ____HELP!
Most of these fireplaces have a switch inside that can turn it on. Additionally, there may be a wall switch (or thermostat) that can be used to turn it on. Also, be sure the gas valve is in the "on" position. Hope this helps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman I just figured out, by chance, that there needs to be a jumper wire from the TH to the TP/TH.
I'm in the process of installing this. Could a regular light switch work? Will 16 gauge wire work? I'm thinking about putting a dimmer light switch on it, would that be feasible?
Yes and yes and no. Dimmer will introduce resistance in the line and shut it down.
GFM
grayfurnaceman thanks for the assistance. Much appreciated!
how can I TAKE OFF THE NUT TO GET IN SIDE VULAN GAS 4 BURNERS
Heck If I know, send me pics and I will try.
GFM
my furnace start only when the thermostat is all the way up, and then it sounds like it lit up then immediately it goes out. then the gas smell.
what is wrong with it ???
If you get a gas smell, you should have someone look at it. Possible fire hazard.
GFM
Hi Gary, nice video. I have a gas fireplace that is currently hooked up to a light switch. So "on" the fire will light... "off" and the fire goes out. The problem is I am scared we will forget to leave it on accidentally while out of town. I am attempting to replace the light switch with an analog low voltage thermostat so the fireplace will turn off at a max of 80 degrees. I hooked up the red and white wires from the switch to the thermostat from honeywell and nothing happened. Any guess as to why? Is the voltage not quite right for the model thermostat (CT87K)? or is the wiring at the control valve not set up for thermostat control? Seems like mine is wired just slightly different. Thanks for any help!!
You have the wrong thermostat. You need a millivolt thermostat. Try this one: CT53K1006/E
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman just curious I have the very same issue I have a brand new Honeywell CT 33a if I touch the red and white wires together the heater turns on and stays on but if I hook up the red and white wires to the thermostat and put the temperature to 90 the magnet clicks over but the heater never turns on any ideas?
The gas valve runs on very low voltage, so it is easy to have a bad connection. Try cleaning the thermostat contacts with a piece of cardboard.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman hello Gary, I thought it was a bad thermostat so I just replaced it with new and it's doing the same.
Is the new thermostat rated for millivolt?
GFM
very confusing, to me, markings on gas valve terminals. Not your doing. Also see 4:03, I don't see a mark for the gas valve connection. Otherwise thanks for all information.
TH+TP, TP, TH 3 connections. when you open the cover you will see them
What's a thermopile?
Try this video. ruclips.net/video/dRjX5m0zHUU/видео.html
GFM
think of a really big thermocouple
A big pile of thermals
exc. demonstration
Completely useless video, doesn't explain anything. He mentions a bunch of facts but doesn't explain any of them. And why is there a plastic bag stuffed in the bottom of the fireplace?? You won't learn anything from this video except that there's something called a doohickey.
It helped me
That was a very poor explanation, really why take the time