Yes, the clas A plywood is a verry high end material with exeptional qualities, it coulden't even be compared with shippboard when it comes to quality and strength. in Sweeden birtsh plywood are mainly used as instalattion wall under wettwalls in toilet and shower walls. But these in genneral thick boards (upp to 32mm) are verry expensive and you can go around the rools here by gluing two thinner plywoodboards together with a special glue to aquire the same measurments, you can also glue the wet wall plasterboards onto the wall and onto eatsh other for a super steardy and water tollerant construktion with no pockets of air and therefor limited oxygen thath can help mold-growth if the water sealant film is broken.
as an electrician in Norway, the US and the UK is particularly crazy far behind in technology and standards unfortunately.. the gap between norway and the us is like 30 years, its not even a joke
I cant speak for the US but here in the UK, id say yes, but no. We are from a enviromental condition standpoint very different from Norway. We have a extremly high precipitation climate in the form of rain, unlike yourselves that is more snow based, but we also have snow, higher humidity levels yr round.; As such we need to use radically different but more traditional building methords that dont need to be, or cant be innovated upon. firstly high levels of thermal mass, so brick and block and stone, with slate roofs. Wood is far less pletiful on account of building a navy with the stuff. So we have innovated less with it as we had no need or oppertunity to. Additionally we have a very diverse housing stock both in build methords but crucially age. 20 % of our housing stock 6 mil out of 30 is victorian age or older, these dont adapt well to new tech, and if they do its very expensive. Double glazing yes, loft conversions, But much of these are in cities and are joined together, so no need for tripple glazing etc as its not cold enough and everyone shares others lost heat. We have an extensive gas network so the development and adoption of air source heat pumps has been slow. additionally we are not as well paid as scandinavians, so the initial outlay for new teck is more prohibative. these are just a few examples. but you say we are yrs behind, well in some ways we got it right forst time, we are on type g plugs, you are on C and F, and ours are far superiour to yours. How things appear on the surface often have a reason behind them. your soverign wealth fund on the other hand, that is sometihng im jelious of, but we had thatcher, where you folks elected far better politicians, Greeting from Wales
@@jukeseyableman, the west coast here (Bergen, Stavanger and such) is far more rain than snow. Its probably on average colder than the UK, since its further north, but along the coast its far more rain than snow. Also - victorian era is not that long ago. Something like the buildings in Oslo is from the 1890s, so that by itself is not the issue. Is pretty much always possible to improve on techniques, you just need to realize that "thats how we have always done it" by itself does not mean thats the best way to do it. It might be, and in some cases probably is (at least for now), but there is no automatic connection that some way is the best way to do it just because thats how its always been done.
@@TorsteinOpperud Ok a couple of points, Firstly just because something is of the same era doesnt mean that it is at all similar. this isnt buildings in general, but housing specifically. most victorian houses are built frombrick normally double or tripple thickness. additionally the fact that you have mostly rain and some snow is very different to here, where i live its 1500 mm a yr throught the year, but in scotland its over 2000. You may have the north sea, but we have the north atlantic but the majority of it occurs in october to feburary intemperatures are for the most pare above 6 degrees, this is supportive of conditions for rot causing fungi to thrive. Stravanger having colder temps in the wettest part of the year slows down the rate of rotting. Even when its not raining we still have higher levels of humidity to deal with at higher temperatures We no longer build in ways similar to the victorians, but their houses still make up a significant proportion of our housing stock. We are for the most part, either brick and block cavity, or brick skin with SWTF construction. But one the less we still focuss on a higher degree of thermal mass in our propities than what is typical of the nordic nations
Just a quick comment on climate and Norway. There is less snow and more rain than people might believe in the coastal regions south of the polar circle. Bergen as 2nd biggest city has 2250-3000 mm pr year and less than 30 days with snow and less than 10 days with more than 10cm snow. There are habitable areas on the west coast averaging 3600 mm. How this historically has affected buildings I couldn't say. As you're pointing out, I suspect age and availability of material are probably the most differentiating drivers. Maybe also income/cost and probably also climate, heating and energy supply.
@@Ri7en There are parts of Scotland that will match your rainfall, and still have some spare to drink. I have to agree with you regarding material availability been a major driver in selection of construction
yes but also as a general reminder these regional definitions aren't some kind of god given truth or geographical fact but a convention. similar to number of continents which we have a pretty poor definition of and just picked some areas for historical reasons (many countries teach model where they either combine the americas or eurasia), denmark is in scandinavia but is not on the scandinavian peninsula while part of finland is on the peninsula but isn't part of scandinavia. just to say go easy on people who say scandinavia when they mean nordics, it'll take time to correct past habits and it's not that big of a deal in grand scheme of things
@@snooks5607 People have had a lot of time to learn the facts. RUclips alone is full of videos about the said topic yet people are too lazy to check them and learn. It is not about habits. It is the same for me to use word Northern America instead of USA when speaking of USA. Or using the word Ireland when speaking of both North and South Ireland. Keep spreading wrong terminology and it will never go away. So yeah. There is no excuse to not use the correct terminology after years of option to learn the correct terminology.
@@SlendisFi_Universe that's different usa is a country, scandinavian isn't a nationality or a country it's a region. iberian region also includes vague parts of southern france although some people claim no part of france is iberian while historically it was defined by river Ebro which would make even Barcelona not Iberian. it's vague but for some reason people of that area don't seem to care much about this particular distinction even though otherwise they are famously fiercely protective of other cultural distinctions. I agree that people should say nordic for the wider region when that's what they're talking about, I simply disagree that the distinction is so important as to have to read comments about it in every video I see either one mentioned even when they're used correctly.
@@snooks5607 As said. Many opportunities to learn the difference. And I will keep correcting this issue until I see people use the correct terminology. Just like I keep telling people how sauna is pronounced correctly.
34:21 In Sweden it's not legal to do water and power without certification, if you do it and are found out the house will become uninsurable. If you sold the house to some one else and they did that through a mortgage the bank could legaly foreclose and you could get sued. So if you would do this it wouldn't be a great idea to put it in a video on RUclips.
Basically, anyone can do water and electricity but before connecting it has to be certified... and good luck finding anyone to sign a cert they didn't actually see how it was done.. They would have to go thru EVERY join and junction.. Or risk losing their license if they sign it and the house burns down. It is illegal to connect non certified circuits to the power grid. Same with water, you can do anything you like with it but can't connect it to the mains.. That is straight up illegal. Illegally connecting to a mains or grid comes with hefty fines and possible prison sentence.
@@squidcaps4308 That is what I meant. Hire a guy checking all the things. If you know how to do it, it cheaper even it takes time for the pro to carefully go everything trough. If you dont know how do to it, then it is just waste of time and money. Basic house-electricity is not a rocket science, but must always be evaluated with someone with proper licence. there's lot of potential hazards what layman might not see. e: Finn here, but I think we have about hte same rules.
You should watch the video about Traditional Finnish Log House Building Process. It is how they used to build log houses before electric tools, using mainly axes and such. The oldest log building in US was built by Finns, C. A. Nothnagle Log House.
yes, it can be very very dangerous if made even the slightest error .. the problem is usually one of the components is uneven spread troug the material that never fully cure, wich can lead to chemicals being leaked out for a very very long time (even years) .. u may not even notice it until its to late, it can create a number of problems, allergic reactions, sthma, rashes that will never go away, reproduction system damages etc ..
Asbestos has been banned in Sweden since 1975 .. and been stripped from older buildings since .. i think there still may exist some cultural heritage buidings when its planned to be removed when its time to renovate by special ppl certified to do so safely ..
No. You are dangerously mistaken if you believe asbestos has been stripped from old buildings. It is still there and allowed to remain there and if you renovate old bathroom tiles or something you must check for it.
in skandinavia, we use corigated pipes for electrics, and we have plastic boxes ( as you would see in another video he made ) the cables comes either pre pulled or you can pull them your self. lets say you was going for a higher gauge on the said outputs you already have you just pull the existing cables and re pull new ones. there is either 2 or 3 cables ( 2 live and 1 ground ( and no not braid'ed ( as you braid hair ) as stated in the video but twisted ) in the conduit, you can buy them in 50mtr or 100meters boxes. the water lines are pipe in pipe setup, if inner pipe burst's, the outer pipe holds the water so it dont ruin the floors or walls or roofs ( depending on where it burst's ), just pull out the bursted inner line and replace it with a new inner one and your up and running again and you dont have to take down walls or roofs ( or where ever it goes ). on the roof we use either clay tiles or metal roofing, most of the old houses use slate tiles either in droplet or squares ( you can buy for new houses too but not same quality ). for wallboxes for power outlets google elko wall box ( one of menny ), so if you get a box that is grounded ( well you have metal boxes in the US ) you dont get shocked.
OSB, or striling board in the uK to a lay man is similar to ply wood, but in many ways its very different. Ply is built up of different layers rotated at 90 degrees to each other, giving strength and rigidity in both directions. OSC is different, in many ways its more like chip board. it is built up of compressed thin pieces of wood, glued and pressurised, but in random directions. Thing about an area of ground that in the fall gets covered by many large leaves, and you are most of the way there to understanding OSB. It doesnt respond well to moinsture, much worst than non marine ply. its benifit is that itsa much cheaper than the equlivalent thickness ply sheet
32:40 Vapor barrier is not optional here in Finland but mandatory. And it's not unheard of to actually measure the leakage before continuing the build; the measurement gives out qE50 number for the building which tells how much air is leaking through the floors, walls and ceiling when there's 50 Pascal pressure differential between the indoors and outdoors. This is about the amount of air that's *accidentally* leaking through the structures and if you have e.g. glass wool in the insulation, you wouldn't want any air to go that way because that will cause some particles from the insulation to leak into indoor air. A good result for qE50 is around 0.5 but at least here in Finland the building code requires 4.0 or better. Our home had value of 0.28 since we put special effort to make it as leak free as possible. The point of vapor barrier is that when the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors gets higher than about 10 K (or 10 °C), the dew point for the indoor air gets high enough that water vapor of the indoor air will condensate in the walls, if you let the air to leak from indoor to the insulation. There are two ways to combat this: (1) vapor barrier which prevents water vapor from ever entering the insulation or (2) having so much air leakage with hot indoor air that the whole wall is above dew point to the outer surface. The option (2) would require insane amount of energy here in Finland where outdoor temperature may be -35 °C (-31 °F) during the winter. Imagine the amount of hot air you would need to keep the wooden parts on the outside above freezing! Vapor barrier should always be on the side of the wall that's warmer. So if you live in a very hot climate and you keep indoors below dew point, you should have vapor barrier outside the insulation. Here in Finland, the summer dew point is high enough not to cause problems even when AC is used but the situation might be different in very hot and moist climates.
I live in Norway. My father built, and drew this house himself. I moved back here because both my parents are very ill and in a care home about 5 km away. So I'm helping them out. Point being. Here there is a basement, with concrete walls making out the fundation of the house. I shall not go into detail. But we dug out the basement, filled it with about a feet of gravel and made a floor of cement about 20 cm thick. Exept for the basement walls (the foundation) the rest is wood.
@@anul6801 its the water that is warmer in the gulf stream. Proximity to the atlantic ocean keep the scandinavian peninsula relatively temperate compared to lets say interal siberia or internal alaska
I’m an Swedish carpenter, and this is how we build houses in Sweden…🙂. We even ” passiv” houses, that does’nt need radiators to keep warm, bodyheat vill do the jobb.. But thats another story…
I've never seen anything but solid copper wire in installations, in Europe. I don't even think braided wires are legal. In Denmark, we use solid copper wires, in conduits. There's no issues pulling the wires through, as long as the conduits were properly fastened. Cables are also allowed (because of EU), but I'm glad this was approved after I stopped working as a house electrician (basically after I graduated). I would never personally buy a house with cables. There's no chance of replacing the wires.
@@darkiee69 What I understand as braided cable, is like the cable you use in appliances, speaker wires, the cable from your washing machine to the wall, etc. We have two words in Danish, "kabel", which is stiff cable for installation, and "ledning", which is flexible wire. Although a "kabel" can also be a soft cable, like for industrial machines, a "ledning" can never describe a cable.
@@akyhneI was under the impression that "ledning" describes only a single insulated wire for phase or ground for example. While "kabel" consists of several single insulated wires which are also insulated so it become double insulated .
@McJibbin: interesting video for me to watch - I have building houses all my life, 1st. as a Carpenter, then 2nd. As a Construction Engineer - - all over western Europe and Greenland - theres so many aspects you have to take into account, like weather, - ground, - housetype, - location, - groundwater high, - Radon, - ect. And I did build my own house back in 1980 (every evening after 8 hours of "carpenter-work"), a completly diff. type/way than shown in this video, - the reason was that my place was in Northern Jutland/DK - a vary different weather type, and soil. Good luck with your project.
I think it is important to note that the heating cable is made of a combination of materials that cause it to self-regulate the temperature it outputs (higher resistance with higher temp), no temperature sensor needed, and that the cables for use inside the waterpipe are pretty safe electrically even if the insulation fails.
Vapour barrier on the warm side is the latest and most modern way to build a wall or create a warm space. It prevents leaks and air movement feom the outside as well as preventing moisture from collecting slong the drywall level where you have the warm and cold temps meeting. When insulsting walls it is also the latest and greatest to use a method called breaking... Where you have the ordinary insulation layer in between the studs and then a 5R insulstion layer overtop of it on the outside of the house. This method is also very effective for sound proofing.
About the vapor barrier in the wall: It definately needs to be on the inside, since the the condensation is due to temperature loss in the warm, moist inside air rather than the outside air. The vapor barrier is also important for the inside climate, as it makes the house "air tight" and therefor the supply air can be properly planned and executed (in Sweden we also always aim for a slight underpreassure in the house, so that no airflow can go outwards into the building envelope where the vapor barrier might be damaged or such). There are also regulations about the supply and exhaust air flow, and that in itself goes into the energy calculations which are also important since energy requirements for heating are also highly regulated to be as low as possible.
True but in warm countries where you need to cool your house more than warming it you might should put the vapourbarrier on the outside. as the outside tends to be more moist than inside as its warmer outside..
@@meandnature6452 that is not an issue up north in Europe. Interesting to hear how they do this in the south states in USA like Florida. My guess is that they skip the vapor barrier.
He raises the floor trusses just like my dad. Who also learned it from the "elders". But dad also tauht to put down sheets for standing and not walk on the floor beams if you don't have to... Even two sheets that you move along makes a TON of difference. Just being able to sit for 2 minutes, place down tools and the boxes of screw/nail boxes.
We live in a wood-framed house that was built in 1998. There is a tv-antenna with tv-cables, which we don't need. But since the cables were inside of conduits, we were able to use those conduits to install Ethernet cables. And we're able to put the modem up in the roof to get the best signal and use ethernet cabling to have several wifi base stations (?) around the house to get proper coverage.
@@jaripukki267 And yet, I have installed several kilometers of freeze prevention cables to water pipes, sewers and rainwater systems in southern Finland. Insulation is not enough, if the water isn't running constantly. I have seen frozen water pipe with 30 mm glued flexible foam and 200 mm rockwool around it, with a bit too weak trace heat cable. -20C and 2 week vacation, when there wasn't anyone using the water was too much for it. The cable used there was 10 W/m and only went straight through one time. We added another 18/36 W self limiting cable beside it. Those trace heating cables are everywhere around here, if you know where to look.
Hi, i had both of electric heat cable, inside the water pipe and on the outside. Roof tiles is made of clay or concrete. Building a wall its more common to not use plywood/OSB on the outside of the wall bec Tyvek/asfaboard let the wall breathe better, we use it on the inside. The moisture comes from the inside of the house and we do not want it to go in to the constructions. Notice that we do not need to crawl under the floor joists, we can install the 1x4 in the joist before w install the joists, then we can do every thing from inside the house. What happend if you not use a preinstall tube for wireing and you get a nail hitting the wire. Then you must install a new wire on the outside of the wall or open the hole wall. We also want our floor to be inside the house and not under the wall connect to the outside. The wooden planks we normal use on the roof comes pre installed like a board sheet with different C/C lenght so its easy and quick to install.
Not sure if I misunderstood, but the normal way of installing electric cables are through plastic tubes, with a line lying there to pull the cable. And the voltage doesn't really matter, the reason for thicker cords is for safety in general. And is it standard in th US to have grounded electriciy? That makes for an extra cord inside the cable, which makes it bigger
1kW machine takes 4A at 225V and 8A at 112V. With higher voltage the current will be in general lower. Lower current = less thickness of the power cable. To my 105m2 home (4 people) I just have a 16A fuse. But because its 3 faze and 400V we never have had a power failure. Even if we both run the electric oven, micro, tumble dryer and dishwasher at the same time. Its heated by central heating system pipe from the government. Also one nice thing to see in Sweden. You now days more or less newer see any power cables in the sky. It just those transmitting lines between cities that have them. All other ones are in the ground instead.
31:30 Nail gun is used because it's faster to put nails than any kind of screwing method. Nail gun is about making it faster to install, screwing things on place is about making it strong.
I'm currently following my brother's process of building a countryside/summer house (we're in Sweden) on his own, so this is very interesting to me. The old house on the property my brother bought is no longer fit to live in or renovate, so it'll be torn down. He's going to check with fire department if they want to use it for practice and torch it. Fun times :)
11:25 To keep the water pipe frost-free, the heating cable can be placed on the outside or inserted into the water pipe. It offers many advantages, such as in situations where pipes are already buried or located beneath buildings. A residual current device (RCD) must always be used in conjunction with the heating cable. It is designed for 230V, with 2 conductors and a power output of 10.0 W/m, and includes a 2 m cold cable. The cable has an armored PVC sheath. Installation must be carried out by a qualified electrician in accordance with current electrical regulations. Installation instructions are included. Cable threading for placement in pipes/hoses is not included. Cable length: 25 m Outer diameter: 5.5 mm Power output: 10.0 W/m
Rain is often combined with heavy winds here in Scandinavia so you cannot easily put a giant tarp over a partially finished building and expect it to stay for even a single rain, never mind extended time periods.
As for cables being and electrician I can fill in that cables here in Finland are all solid wire double insulated cables and electrical piping was and is used only when you don't have double insulated cable available (then you have to use single strands of solid insulated wire) or if there is a risk for cable damage from abrasion or other reasons. I've never seen flex cables used in a construction except as low voltage cables, flex for 240v is used only in commercial / industrial settings.
Yeah, isolated heat cable is put inside the pipes everywhere you can't get pipes or drains down below frost level. That can also be applied on downpipes from the roof. It is often combined with, probably always combined with, some kind of frost guard engaging around below 40F.
40:00 - braided copper wire means that the wire inside the rubber insulation layer is made up of tiny like.. 0.5mm or perhaps even thinner (dunno not an electrician) small wires which are then braided together to form the conducting part of the cable. Solid copper would be just that. Entirely solid conductor - sometimes supported by a smaller gauge braided copper liner in-between the inner conductor and the outer plastic/rubber insulator. Examples of that here in Sweden would be old cable tv coaxial cables you used to find in old apartments before the availability of fiberoptic broadband internet became more less ubiquitous across the country. I used to do customer support for one of the country's primary Internet, TV and Phone provider, that's how I know about it. And boy do people mistreat and misunderstand the properties and limitations associated with those cables, but that is a different story.
The cable is outside the pipe, between it and insulation. Just hook it up in wintertime and no freezes occure. It´s a very cheap way to ensure no ice buildup, only around 1W/meter consumption of energy.
People building houses by them self is not that uncommon, I helped my father out building a house 20 years ago, he's built an other one by him self after that. He wasn't even a carpenter but had dreamt of being a furniture carpenter in his youth. His day job was a telecom executive and the second house was built in his retired years. My grand father on my mothers side also built him self a house, he was a mansion by trade and when around demolition sites and requested spare brick that he cleaned and laid into a new house. So at least in my family this is the thing you do.
Interesting vid! I’ve recently thoroughly renovated a house and will hopefully not have to build a house to my self again. But the different techniques are an interesting subject!
In the Netherlands. Goes all the electricity through a PVC pipe. into the wall. And the light at the point where it is used. Is it 16 or 19 mm. And the wires are assembled per pipe. For an outlet, brown blue and green / yellow. for a switch, black is added. And then there are some more combinations with the wiring. Brown is plus Blue is minus and green/yellow is earth. And black is the switch wire and in slightly thinner.
I don´t think you have DC (direct current) in the Netherlands (you have DC with +/- in your Car). I think you mean: Brown conductor is Hot (or Live) and Blue conductor is Neutral. And the Black, switch wire, has the same diameter as the Hot anf Neutral.
The cable runs along the water pipe and both are encased within a larger "protective pipe cover". It's not a conductive cable IN the waterpipe. You have to do that if you can't bury the pipe deep enough, or your waterpipe will burst in the winter.
The hammerband method isn't the standard, at least not in Norway. It's done, but is by no means the standard. Also most common is to put down the floor plates ( unless you're using a solid wood floor ) , build the walls lying on the floor and raise them afterwards, not placing one and one stud as in the video.
In Canada the latest insulation standards came out not too long ago and because of it I have a feeling they will be building houses very much to this standard with the 6 inch walls to get 20R insulation. We don't usually heat our pipes but they do bury them below frost depth to counteract this.
@Possimpablee yea I can see the layers he added on and frankly I like the thicker exterior walls. The average house here is built with 2x4 studs (3.5inch thick) then usually half inch plywood on the outside and half inch drywall on the inside. A lot of people apply additional insulation on the outside as well but from what I've seen that's basic construction here. They exterior usually gets siding on it if it's not already brick. When being constructed with brick it's obviously thicker as an air gap is applied in between the brick and plywood layer l, probably getting you closer to a 12 inch thick wall in that situation.
22 дня назад
"We don't usually heat our pipes but they do bury them below frost depth to counteract this." That is hard when building on bedrock.
My dad and I built my house in rural Sweden when I was in my late twenties. I basically made the floor plans and the overall design and he, being an engineer, provided the nessecary know-how. To make things less expensive we also made most of the wood boards (he has a very small saw mill) so first we spent a lot of time cutting down trees and pulling them home on sleds on the snow, then cutting the logs up and letting them dry. The house is about 1000sqf and mostly constructed in the same way as shown in this video.
As for “screw gun”, there are screw guns specifically for plasterboard screws, which takes belted screws and screws them in in half a second. As for the vapor barrier, the condensation happens when the air moves through the wall and gets cooler. By sealing the wall, this doesn’t happen at all as no air moves through the walls, instead it happens in the ventilation system, which is designed to handle the moisture. What you would call plywood is in fact OSB, actual plywood is made from full sheets of thinner wood.
ca.12:00 regarding the heating cable. It is a heated electric cable that you put along side the water pipe and then the two are insulated within some styrofoam sheats. This keeps the pipe above freezing when the ground around goes solid of frost.
I'm from sweden, but spent a year in Florida when I was younger. What struck me the most was there are these quite big houses, but when you go inside, there aren't that many bedrooms as you would think..more open areas, sometimes with no apparent purpose. For example oddly place lounge area that nobody care to use, or unproportionally big entrance area and stairs to the second floor like a mini palace, althought the rest of the house doesn’t match the size of the entrance. Not saying that it's wrong, but it's just different. Like the builder in the video said, Sweden actually used to be one of the poorest countries in europe just 120 years ago give or take, so building a house was a big deal. Every bit of space must fill a function. Also warming up "dead space" simply cost more energy. We still carry that legacy to some extent, even though more extravagant house designs have started popping up here as well, with big open spaces panoramic windows etc.
29:40 the tung and grew.board is not very rain sensetive. So if its exposed to rain a few days is not really a issue. It just need to be dry when the surface layer is put on. This is a problem with osb or plywood that really dont like rain.
The difference in electrical is the nordic country use 3 phase 220v which allows for smaller wire size . The size is 14 or 16 guage stranded wire . They are indvidual insulated wire which can be pulled inside of a pvc flexible conduit. The electrical ɓoxes are mounted externally on the walls not internally
heating cable in the waterpipe is not uncommon at all if you have your own well, we have a 25 meter cable in our pipe,the well is about 30 meters from the house, and the pipe is laying pretty shallow,so to prevent it from freezing in the wintertime,this heatcable is on a timer, 15 minutes every 6 hours, whitstands negative 30 C whit ease
Yes. Scandinavian houses are better. So much better. Thats because we start building even under the house. And all stuff is high guality. One median size (150m2) house takes usualluy at least 2 years to build and cost 3-400000€,and its only basic, not so fancy.
@@Jens92 But it takes months to make concrete mature/hardened. And after concrete maturing it takes months to make it dry. And only after that you can start building the house itself. That is if ofcourse if you make the base footing out of concrete. Or do you use block bricks instead? Anyway buildings which are built on unmatured AND wet concrete foundation won't last more than 20-30 years atleast here in Finland. Norway's climate is not that different.
@@ttiwaz4398 yes we use block bricks. Usually the concrete is dry enough to fasten wood to it after a couple of days. Same with concrete on the floor. I bet Norway and Finland got the same climate yes, but i have never seen concrete being to wet to not fasten anything to it after 2 days
@31:01 Here (NL) Asphalt is used often for flat roofs as it can be made waterproof, but is not very durable (20 years). Most sloped roofs are ceramic tile, which except for replacing a few tiles after storms are without problems for the first 40 years, and can last even longer (by sorting tiles and replacing bad ones halfway through the lifetime)
@@johnnyguitar6639 the tiles are harder than asphalt aan shingles, and it is the structure below that carries the load. Not that we get much snow to begin with. 20-30cm in more exceptional cases
The first minutes construction is typical nordic bulding style and when it comes to spacing and timber size. Basements are not allowed in sweden nowdays as sewage systems are put more shallow. In some areas you can get allowed to make a basement but often it is quite expensive due to alot of extra sewage stuff you need to make. Most commonly you make a concrete plate with water based heating integrated in it. Many countries buy swedish timber as it is better suited for house building, higher quality. Mostlty spruce and pine. 17:30 sweden uses hammer bands, stronger with less material. C-beam is hammer band on both sides, both outboard and inboard. 22:00 most common is to use floorboards (OSB) that you switch to use as wall boards. And then add other floorboards that are thicker. OSB is rough shavings that are press glued, cheap but strong. 37:40 no plywood is laminated wood with the grain rotated 90 deg in each layer. 29:30 I guess he just wanted to make as much as possible before the rain :). 32:00 yes the swedes use both nails and screws just the way you explained. 34:00 With insulation you want to have it ventilated due to moist but still important to prevent the air to move to much within the insulation. I agree that the inside plastic is better due to the natural ventilation from the outside air. 40:30 as we have an extra insulating wall 2in thick we can put the outlets on boards so they level out with the inner wall surface.
Many times basement works bad due to it get flooded to easy in many spots. And hard to get the draining work well or it's pure rock and who want to pay to blow that open for a basememt?
He forgets one very important country....... Japan! They makes a lot of wooden houses and do this with out nails and screws in traditional houses!! When he talks about Scandinavian standards he is wrong in his assumptions of equal standards due to storms and wind influence! In Denmark the roof of our houses are anchored in the foundation from the load bearing beam of the roof construction every 3 - 3,5 metres (9,84 - 11,48 ft.)!! Also called the strap of roof construction! All this because of our massive coastline around of the country and we have some pretty hefty storms here with wind speeds up to 160 km/h (approx. 100 miles), so not the same exact codes in all of Scandinavia!!!!! Kindly the Danish Viking
Outlets are put in the area between plaster osb board and vapourbarier not to punkture the barrier…. The outlet is fastened in the osb and conduits with wires inside in the inside of vapourbarrier
35:30 its a seperate thin wall built to house plumbing and electrical work so that it inside the wall, but doesnt mess with the insulation. and yeah makes for a easier workflow in electrical work and plumbing
For your info you can put the swedish outlets below or above the horizontal "beam" because they are made with wide variety of installing methods also osb is what you say plywood or a version of plywood:D
@@Jmvars normalt sett gjør jo ikke hele Nord Norge det. Enten bor du i Øverbygd eller så bor du på vidda. Det jeg er ifra er det uhyre sjelden noe slikt forekommer. Mulig ny bygge standar krever varmekabel på vannrør. Det vet jeg ikke noe om. 🤪
Plywood is built of multiple layers of thin wood sheets that are laid cross fibered and OSB is basically glued and pressed wood chips which is cheaper.
There are diffrent wite types for post installation in conduits. Nk =one fk=like 5 strands mk =many more strands Standard cable area for max 13 amp is 1.5 square mm. 2400w 16 amp is 2.5 square mm. 3600w If there is need for more power like stoves ,waterheaters and electric heating ,heat pumps. They use 3 phase 400 v power The conduits are 16 0r 22 mm diameter, but there is bigger (like 50mm) and smaller pipes the smaller is mostly used for floorheat censors . (like 10 mm) There is pvc free plastic without flame redarder and softner additives Or pvc insulated with these additives to choose from , Both i cabels and conduit. The installation boxes for electricity goes on installation wall wood inside the plastic layer there is a telescopic ring in the box that goes through the hole that is cut in the inside wall layers ,the ele equipment is fastened to the ring.
Wood has low thermal conductivity and therefore high heat-insulating capacity. Wooden houses stay warm easier than stone buildings that get colder and colder as the winter goes on and the stone cools down. Makes sense why Nordic houses have traditionally been all wood.
There is so many different way to build, as mentioned...cralw space, is it cold or "heated" normally recomendation is heated that doesn't really means heated, but insulated. Concreat slab is very common, and has normally 300mm od styroform insulation. Normally it is equippeds with a water based floor heating system. Basemet is rarely built any longer, but i prefer it....I think both cost, energy requirement and radon gas could be reasons? The C-beam ....I would perfer to call it an L -joist/beam , and it is common....but for one building I used 90x225 mm since there was a huge tree that had a risk to fall at the house. Normally the outer side has 45mm joist cross the beams, this to increase insultation and reduce noice transportation. There is energy requirement for new built houses, the usage for heat MUST be less than 90kwh/m² (C-klass) for permanent residence. Screw or nail for construction, if the wood is dry, the risk for the screw will break is reduced. For example when concreat is poured into a wooden frame, after a few days several of screws will be broken due to expanding forces inside the frame, this doesn't happens to nails. When i screw construction screw for larger beams (2 by 7 or larger, I use 8mm (these screw is 6 mm in thinnest position). But to use screw for joist hanger is perfect. OSB (oriented strand board) is typical 12mm almost 1/2" . For bathroom, I think the standard is RECOMENDED to be 15mm construction playwood, and distance between beams can be different if it is tile or plastic carpet that is used, but also height of wall has to be involved in discussion normally is 30cm/1 feet or 45cm/1,5feet be selected. For roof, the most common for roof is to use an underlay product of plastic and bitumen. The old has a high content of bitumen and a weak fiber structure but is a bit more resistent to UV light. The newer has greater tear strength, withstand higher water pressure, but is weak for UV light. Shall always be covered with top layer of bitumen (asphalt impregnated pruduct) or with roof tiles (concrete or clay) easiest is to use concreate, but they are heavier. For rafters, if I rembember correct, there is 10 different snow load zones in Sweden, and this is dimentioning the size of rafters, distance between rafters, angle of roof etc. Electrical installaition is normally done with flexible conduit (in some installation with plastic pipe). Both cable insulation (stranded copper wire) and pipe should be in halogen free material. The apparatus box with stubs for flexible conduit or plastic tubing is fixed to studs in several different positions, I prefer to use two 4" nails. All plumbing and electrical installation should be done inside the vapor barrier. Forced ventilation is required when using vapor barrier. Inside since during winter time (negfative deg C) the air outside can't carry same amount of humidity as the warm air inside and if this warm air would cool down inside an insulation, the risk for condensation is high, therefore use vapor barrier inside. MINIMUM 70% of insulation outside of barrier. Severa different system can be used such as diffusion open vapor barrier, moisture absorbing insulation etc. I think the insulation in US that was mentioned as not healthy, was the PU-foam .... BUT I think the risk is only during spraying and hardening process?
We had the plumber putting a heatingcable up the waterinnlet ...the main one so it goes all the way out to the public ones. It basically is a low volt thing plasticcover cable. once the water freezes its just hit the button and within like a minute or so .... water start running again.... or I could if I wanted to just leave it on it does not draw alot of electricity according to the plumber. We used to have a cable twisted around the pipe or along the pipe but that honestly do take longer time....
31:55 a screw gun is really quite fast. Takes less than a second to screw one in. The main issue is you only have like 50 screws in the magazine so you need to reload all the time.
22 дня назад
Aren't screw guns usually limited to something like 5-6 cm (2-2½ inch) long screws? I've only used them for putting up plaster sheets. I would imagine that the strips with the screws are annoying to work with if the screws get too long.
i can run 75mm in mine, possibly even 80 (have not tried). Granted the feed is not perfect at 75mm so 70 probobly works better (every like 3rd or 4th screw hang up). And its really not often you need more. Say a typical fiberboard floor is 22mm and then you wold need 45mm screws. For plaster and OSB wall its 24mm combined, so you need 50mm screws. Its really only ever when you work with construction lumber it don´t work, and then its really not that many screws anyway. On top of that, torx is pretty much standard for construction screws, and typically T30 unlike the P2 used for the smaller screws. So i use two machine regardless so i don´t have to change the bits.
38:00 This is chip boards(OBS) (not Play-wood), its in its name ply-wood - layered board with different grain orientations wich can take alot more than chip boards, chip boards r made of wood chips and glue pressed and baked together under high pressure Edit: unless ur planning on hanging somting weighing a tonne or so on the wall, ply-wood are not really nessesary
I've heard screws can't be used in certain applications because they are not good with sheer forces and tend to snap and break unexpectedly where nails are very good at preventing this. I use screws for everything I can because it forces to surfaces together and keeps them there. When doing flooring an additional measure is carpenters glue with screws. They best way would still be screwless with joints being interlocking, but it is too time consuming.
@tortap that might be the case for the screws they use there. I'm not a carpenter here in Canada but I have heard many times over that ordinary screws cannot be used in structural situations. They do sell structural screws that are quite expensive but not all of them are rated to be used this way.
Thanks for the breakdown! Could you help me with something unrelated: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How can I transfer them to Binance?
My father was an Architect, so I know a bit of house construction. There are regulations for dimentions and how big of an angle the roof has to be, depending on where in Sweden
27:45 In the USA, it is common to use various agents and additives in all materials, so also in foodstuffs, which for a reason are prohibited in the EU.
If you have dry eyes you need to drink more water. I used to get dry eyes when i worked nights and i realised i was just not drinking enough and it made the eyes feel like i had lemon in them.
electric heated waterline is usaly done in 2 ways a single heat element running the lenght inside the pipe, or a dual pipe with a heatelement wrapped around the inner pipe with a second cover pipe outside, it usaly comes with 2 powersettings, defrost and continous opperating power. and ofcorse off. This video is only 1 option for nordic house building, 1 floor and 2 floor houses are pretty common, usaly with basement as the 1 floor, often also a 3 floor under the sealing for bedroms or a second livingroom or both. it just all depends on cost.
There is absolutely no braided copper wire used in wires at least in Finland and Sweden. Conduits are required. The most important thing for doing the conduits (we mostly install solid hard plastic conduits) is to have a large turn radius since we use solid copper wires. I see no problem to pull them through conduit.
@@rothorman My house has zero braided cables and they all run in conduits. It's not hard to pull as you have conduits lardge enough and proper radius in the bends. Its not hard to pull solid conductor cables.
When he said that we use braided wire it is not the correct word for it. I would rather say we use multi core wires instead of solid core wire, so a wire consisting of multiple thinner copper threads in the core instead of a solid copper. These are more flexible and can be more easily passed through a flex conduit. This fits well with our 220v. I would guess this does not float well with 110v system where you have higher amperage.
OSB is wood chips compressed and glued together to form plywood. Regular plywood is thin layers of wood compressed and glued together. OSB is the cheapest and worse type of plywood you can have because it is very susceptable to moisture and falls apart fast when introduced to moisture. Best plywood would be form plywood or thick plywood that is also pressure treated. Just recently used 5/8" form ply on the outside of a crawlspace i was insulating and modernizing and it is incredibly tough and strong.
I'm currently building my own house. Been working on it for a couple of years. (can not work that many hours per day because of... reasons..), I'm an IT tech, took help with the foundation and the exterior framing together with the roof, except for that I've built all by myself, youtube is a good source for information, only taking help regarding the electricity and that is because of legal reasons. :(
Building permits in Sweden wasn't always this way. But in the 1960's the government overbuilt housing in the "million programme" where they built a million houses and apartments in a rent controlled environment. When rent control was relaxed there was a massive surplus of housing so the government in it's wisdom made building permits harder to get. Before that you didn't really need building permits for a lot of things especially in the countryside. And municipalities had area planning not specific house planning.
OSB is basically low grade plywood. The builder in this video seems to like it but it's getting out of style here in Finland because of outgassing a lot. We built our house in M1 spec in Finland and it cannot contain any OSB or plywood in inside the vapor barrier because the material would outgas too much.
I used to work as a diamond driller and borer, I COMPLETELY understand your fear of big blades.. Try working with a bonghead, a meter in diameter blade, to cut through concrete, dude got stuck and the damn machine ran away from him... luckily noone got hurt.. But that kind of blade scare the shit out of me...!!
I was half way in, before I realized this is a Swedish guy talking with an American bot, on how he builds houses in Sweden. I thought it was an American guy, building in the US.
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OSB is made from coarse wood chips. Plywood is made from thin layers of wood.
Yes, at 38:04 he scrolls past all the actual plywood to find OSB and then says "this is plywood".
@@frankkrunkmost people don’t work with wood or in construction whatsoever, so Plywood would be the easiest comparison for most
OSB is basically the pieces that didn't make the cut for plywood.
@@ehsnils nah, the process is completely different, plywood just needs nicer wood, big logs so it's more expensive.
Yes, the clas A plywood is a verry high end material with exeptional qualities, it coulden't even be compared with shippboard when it comes to quality and strength.
in Sweeden birtsh plywood are mainly used as instalattion wall under wettwalls in toilet and shower walls. But these in genneral thick boards (upp to 32mm) are verry expensive and you can go around the rools here by gluing two thinner plywoodboards together with a special glue to aquire the same measurments, you can also glue the wet wall plasterboards onto the wall and onto eatsh other for a super steardy and water tollerant construktion with no pockets of air and therefor limited oxygen thath can help mold-growth if the water sealant film is broken.
as an electrician in Norway, the US and the UK is particularly crazy far behind in technology and standards unfortunately.. the gap between norway and the us is like 30 years, its not even a joke
I cant speak for the US but here in the UK, id say yes, but no. We are from a enviromental condition standpoint very different from Norway. We have a extremly high precipitation climate in the form of rain, unlike yourselves that is more snow based, but we also have snow, higher humidity levels yr round.; As such we need to use radically different but more traditional building methords that dont need to be, or cant be innovated upon. firstly high levels of thermal mass, so brick and block and stone, with slate roofs. Wood is far less pletiful on account of building a navy with the stuff. So we have innovated less with it as we had no need or oppertunity to. Additionally we have a very diverse housing stock both in build methords but crucially age. 20 % of our housing stock 6 mil out of 30 is victorian age or older, these dont adapt well to new tech, and if they do its very expensive. Double glazing yes, loft conversions, But much of these are in cities and are joined together, so no need for tripple glazing etc as its not cold enough and everyone shares others lost heat. We have an extensive gas network so the development and adoption of air source heat pumps has been slow. additionally we are not as well paid as scandinavians, so the initial outlay for new teck is more prohibative. these are just a few examples. but you say we are yrs behind, well in some ways we got it right forst time, we are on type g plugs, you are on C and F, and ours are far superiour to yours. How things appear on the surface often have a reason behind them. your soverign wealth fund on the other hand, that is sometihng im jelious of, but we had thatcher, where you folks elected far better politicians, Greeting from Wales
@@jukeseyableman, the west coast here (Bergen, Stavanger and such) is far more rain than snow. Its probably on average colder than the UK, since its further north, but along the coast its far more rain than snow. Also - victorian era is not that long ago. Something like the buildings in Oslo is from the 1890s, so that by itself is not the issue. Is pretty much always possible to improve on techniques, you just need to realize that "thats how we have always done it" by itself does not mean thats the best way to do it. It might be, and in some cases probably is (at least for now), but there is no automatic connection that some way is the best way to do it just because thats how its always been done.
@@TorsteinOpperud Ok a couple of points, Firstly just because something is of the same era doesnt mean that it is at all similar. this isnt buildings in general, but housing specifically. most victorian houses are built frombrick normally double or tripple thickness. additionally the fact that you have mostly rain and some snow is very different to here, where i live its 1500 mm a yr throught the year, but in scotland its over 2000. You may have the north sea, but we have the north atlantic but the majority of it occurs in october to feburary intemperatures are for the most pare above 6 degrees, this is supportive of conditions for rot causing fungi to thrive. Stravanger having colder temps in the wettest part of the year slows down the rate of rotting. Even when its not raining we still have higher levels of humidity to deal with at higher temperatures We no longer build in ways similar to the victorians, but their houses still make up a significant proportion of our housing stock. We are for the most part, either brick and block cavity, or brick skin with SWTF construction. But one the less we still focuss on a higher degree of thermal mass in our propities than what is typical of the nordic nations
Just a quick comment on climate and Norway. There is less snow and more rain than people might believe in the coastal regions south of the polar circle. Bergen as 2nd biggest city has 2250-3000 mm pr year and less than 30 days with snow and less than 10 days with more than 10cm snow.
There are habitable areas on the west coast averaging 3600 mm.
How this historically has affected buildings I couldn't say. As you're pointing out, I suspect age and availability of material are probably the most differentiating drivers. Maybe also income/cost and probably also climate, heating and energy supply.
@@Ri7en There are parts of Scotland that will match your rainfall, and still have some spare to drink. I have to agree with you regarding material availability been a major driver in selection of construction
If Finland is on the list with Sweden, Norway and Denmark, it is no longer Scandinavia. It is NORDICS.
Iceland also Nordic but not Scandinavia.
yes but also as a general reminder these regional definitions aren't some kind of god given truth or geographical fact but a convention. similar to number of continents which we have a pretty poor definition of and just picked some areas for historical reasons (many countries teach model where they either combine the americas or eurasia), denmark is in scandinavia but is not on the scandinavian peninsula while part of finland is on the peninsula but isn't part of scandinavia. just to say go easy on people who say scandinavia when they mean nordics, it'll take time to correct past habits and it's not that big of a deal in grand scheme of things
@@snooks5607
People have had a lot of time to learn the facts. RUclips alone is full of videos about the said topic yet people are too lazy to check them and learn. It is not about habits. It is the same for me to use word Northern America instead of USA when speaking of USA. Or using the word Ireland when speaking of both North and South Ireland. Keep spreading wrong terminology and it will never go away.
So yeah. There is no excuse to not use the correct terminology after years of option to learn the correct terminology.
@@SlendisFi_Universe that's different usa is a country, scandinavian isn't a nationality or a country it's a region. iberian region also includes vague parts of southern france although some people claim no part of france is iberian while historically it was defined by river Ebro which would make even Barcelona not Iberian. it's vague but for some reason people of that area don't seem to care much about this particular distinction even though otherwise they are famously fiercely protective of other cultural distinctions.
I agree that people should say nordic for the wider region when that's what they're talking about, I simply disagree that the distinction is so important as to have to read comments about it in every video I see either one mentioned even when they're used correctly.
@@snooks5607
As said. Many opportunities to learn the difference. And I will keep correcting this issue until I see people use the correct terminology. Just like I keep telling people how sauna is pronounced correctly.
34:21 In Sweden it's not legal to do water and power without certification, if you do it and are found out the house will become uninsurable. If you sold the house to some one else and they did that through a mortgage the bank could legaly foreclose and you could get sued. So if you would do this it wouldn't be a great idea to put it in a video on RUclips.
Also Denmark
i would not be surpised if you just need signature ;)
Yes you can do, but you just need someone with the cert to check it up and give signature to the work done?
Basically, anyone can do water and electricity but before connecting it has to be certified... and good luck finding anyone to sign a cert they didn't actually see how it was done.. They would have to go thru EVERY join and junction.. Or risk losing their license if they sign it and the house burns down. It is illegal to connect non certified circuits to the power grid. Same with water, you can do anything you like with it but can't connect it to the mains.. That is straight up illegal. Illegally connecting to a mains or grid comes with hefty fines and possible prison sentence.
@@squidcaps4308 That is what I meant. Hire a guy checking all the things. If you know how to do it, it cheaper even it takes time for the pro to carefully go everything trough. If you dont know how do to it, then it is just waste of time and money.
Basic house-electricity is not a rocket science, but must always be evaluated with someone with proper licence. there's lot of potential hazards what layman might not see.
e: Finn here, but I think we have about hte same rules.
You should watch the video about Traditional Finnish Log House Building Process. It is how they used to build log houses before electric tools, using mainly axes and such. The oldest log building in US was built by Finns, C. A. Nothnagle Log House.
"where do you put the outlets???? wherever the fk you want ....... lol
He is not talking about asbestos but about the chemicals (as isocyanates) that are used in foam insulation.
asbestos use was banned year 1989 if member right.there brofed Cansers 35 year
yes, it can be very very dangerous if made even the slightest error .. the problem is usually one of the components is uneven spread troug the material that never fully cure, wich can lead to chemicals being leaked out for a very very long time (even years) .. u may not even notice it until its to late, it can create a number of problems, allergic reactions, sthma, rashes that will never go away, reproduction system damages etc ..
Asbestos has been banned in Sweden since 1975 .. and been stripped from older buildings since .. i think there still may exist some cultural heritage buidings when its planned to be removed when its time to renovate by special ppl certified to do so safely ..
U cant use asbestos here EU. Its against to law....
No. You are dangerously mistaken if you believe asbestos has been stripped from old buildings. It is still there and allowed to remain there and if you renovate old bathroom tiles or something you must check for it.
in skandinavia, we use corigated pipes for electrics, and we have plastic boxes ( as you would see in another video he made ) the cables comes either pre pulled or you can pull them your self.
lets say you was going for a higher gauge on the said outputs you already have you just pull the existing cables and re pull new ones.
there is either 2 or 3 cables ( 2 live and 1 ground ( and no not braid'ed ( as you braid hair ) as stated in the video but twisted ) in the conduit,
you can buy them in 50mtr or 100meters boxes.
the water lines are pipe in pipe setup, if inner pipe burst's, the outer pipe holds the water so it dont ruin the floors or walls or roofs ( depending on where it burst's ), just pull out the bursted inner line and replace it with a new inner one and your up and running again and you dont have to take down walls or roofs ( or where ever it goes ).
on the roof we use either clay tiles or metal roofing, most of the old houses use slate tiles either in droplet or squares ( you can buy for new houses too but not same quality ).
for wallboxes for power outlets google elko wall box ( one of menny ), so if you get a box that is grounded ( well you have metal boxes in the US ) you dont get shocked.
OSB, or striling board in the uK to a lay man is similar to ply wood, but in many ways its very different. Ply is built up of different layers rotated at 90 degrees to each other, giving strength and rigidity in both directions. OSC is different, in many ways its more like chip board. it is built up of compressed thin pieces of wood, glued and pressurised, but in random directions. Thing about an area of ground that in the fall gets covered by many large leaves, and you are most of the way there to understanding OSB. It doesnt respond well to moinsture, much worst than non marine ply. its benifit is that itsa much cheaper than the equlivalent thickness ply sheet
32:40 Vapor barrier is not optional here in Finland but mandatory. And it's not unheard of to actually measure the leakage before continuing the build; the measurement gives out qE50 number for the building which tells how much air is leaking through the floors, walls and ceiling when there's 50 Pascal pressure differential between the indoors and outdoors. This is about the amount of air that's *accidentally* leaking through the structures and if you have e.g. glass wool in the insulation, you wouldn't want any air to go that way because that will cause some particles from the insulation to leak into indoor air. A good result for qE50 is around 0.5 but at least here in Finland the building code requires 4.0 or better. Our home had value of 0.28 since we put special effort to make it as leak free as possible.
The point of vapor barrier is that when the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors gets higher than about 10 K (or 10 °C), the dew point for the indoor air gets high enough that water vapor of the indoor air will condensate in the walls, if you let the air to leak from indoor to the insulation. There are two ways to combat this: (1) vapor barrier which prevents water vapor from ever entering the insulation or (2) having so much air leakage with hot indoor air that the whole wall is above dew point to the outer surface. The option (2) would require insane amount of energy here in Finland where outdoor temperature may be -35 °C (-31 °F) during the winter. Imagine the amount of hot air you would need to keep the wooden parts on the outside above freezing!
Vapor barrier should always be on the side of the wall that's warmer. So if you live in a very hot climate and you keep indoors below dew point, you should have vapor barrier outside the insulation. Here in Finland, the summer dew point is high enough not to cause problems even when AC is used but the situation might be different in very hot and moist climates.
Thanks for the excellent explanation!
I live in Norway. My father built, and drew this house himself. I moved back here because both my parents are very ill and in a care home about 5 km away. So I'm helping them out. Point being. Here there is a basement, with concrete walls making out the fundation of the house. I shall not go into detail. But we dug out the basement, filled it with about a feet of gravel and made a floor of cement about 20 cm thick. Exept for the basement walls (the foundation) the rest is wood.
Hi from Finland! Both my grandfathers and my father build houses by themselves like this.
Latitude in Scandinavia is same as northern Canada and Alaska, but we got the gulf stream to warm us up
Its the winds. Not the ocean that warms it up
@@anul6801 100% gulf stream that is pumping heat up there.
@@vihreelinja4743 its the winds not the stream. Different things.
@@anul6801 its the water that is warmer in the gulf stream. Proximity to the atlantic ocean keep the scandinavian peninsula relatively temperate compared to lets say interal siberia or internal alaska
@@tortap the water is warmer but its the winds that makes Scandinavia Warmer not the Gulf stream.
35:30 There is like two walls. One is the insulation and then the plumber and electrician is only working in a part of the wall
Plywood is made out wood sheets glued together, osb is made out of wood chips glued together.
I’m an Swedish carpenter, and this is how we build houses in Sweden…🙂. We even ” passiv” houses, that does’nt need radiators to keep warm, bodyheat vill do the jobb.. But thats another story…
Det är inte vad passivhus betyder 😂
living insie a bottle suffocating
@@hillppari No. We have ventilation systems that bring in fresh air and recycle the heat.
We build the same in Norway aswell. Good to know i dont have to change much if i would want to work in sweden one day!
I've never seen anything but solid copper wire in installations, in Europe. I don't even think braided wires are legal.
In Denmark, we use solid copper wires, in conduits. There's no issues pulling the wires through, as long as the conduits were properly fastened.
Cables are also allowed (because of EU), but I'm glad this was approved after I stopped working as a house electrician (basically after I graduated).
I would never personally buy a house with cables. There's no chance of replacing the wires.
Wrong. braided is used.
@baldis12 Where?
@@akyhne Everywhere. But calling it braided is wrong, it's several thinner wires twisted together then insulated.
@@darkiee69 What I understand as braided cable, is like the cable you use in appliances, speaker wires, the cable from your washing machine to the wall, etc.
We have two words in Danish, "kabel", which is stiff cable for installation, and "ledning", which is flexible wire.
Although a "kabel" can also be a soft cable, like for industrial machines, a "ledning" can never describe a cable.
@@akyhneI was under the impression that "ledning" describes only a single insulated wire for phase or ground for example. While "kabel" consists of several single insulated wires which are also insulated so it become double insulated .
@McJibbin: interesting video for me to watch - I have building houses all my life, 1st. as a Carpenter, then 2nd. As a Construction Engineer - - all over western Europe and Greenland - theres so many aspects you have to take into account, like weather, - ground, - housetype, - location, - groundwater high, - Radon, - ect.
And I did build my own house back in 1980 (every evening after 8 hours of "carpenter-work"), a completly diff. type/way than shown in this video, - the reason was that my place was in Northern Jutland/DK - a vary different weather type, and soil.
Good luck with your project.
Heating cable runs parallel with the water pipe inside a insulating coating to hinder it from freezing.
It can also be taped to the outside of the water pipe with metal tape. I work as an elctrician and have installed a couple of heating cables that way.
there is an hose connection so you can retrofit a heating cable inside the water hose. works great
I think it is important to note that the heating cable is made of a combination of materials that cause it to self-regulate the temperature it outputs (higher resistance with higher temp), no temperature sensor needed, and that the cables for use inside the waterpipe are pretty safe electrically even if the insulation fails.
Vapour barrier on the warm side is the latest and most modern way to build a wall or create a warm space. It prevents leaks and air movement feom the outside as well as preventing moisture from collecting slong the drywall level where you have the warm and cold temps meeting. When insulsting walls it is also the latest and greatest to use a method called breaking... Where you have the ordinary insulation layer in between the studs and then a 5R insulstion layer overtop of it on the outside of the house. This method is also very effective for sound proofing.
About the vapor barrier in the wall: It definately needs to be on the inside, since the the condensation is due to temperature loss in the warm, moist inside air rather than the outside air. The vapor barrier is also important for the inside climate, as it makes the house "air tight" and therefor the supply air can be properly planned and executed (in Sweden we also always aim for a slight underpreassure in the house, so that no airflow can go outwards into the building envelope where the vapor barrier might be damaged or such). There are also regulations about the supply and exhaust air flow, and that in itself goes into the energy calculations which are also important since energy requirements for heating are also highly regulated to be as low as possible.
True but in warm countries where you need to cool your house more than warming it you might should put the vapourbarrier on the outside. as the outside tends to be more moist than inside as its warmer outside..
@@meandnature6452 that is not an issue up north in Europe. Interesting to hear how they do this in the south states in USA like Florida. My guess is that they skip the vapor barrier.
He raises the floor trusses just like my dad. Who also learned it from the "elders". But dad also tauht to put down sheets for standing and not walk on the floor beams if you don't have to... Even two sheets that you move along makes a TON of difference. Just being able to sit for 2 minutes, place down tools and the boxes of screw/nail boxes.
the roof tiles are made of brick. They are strong and thick. We have roof tiles that are 124 years old on our house, so durable.
tiles def is preferable imo..to shingle if the roof is strong enough
We live in a wood-framed house that was built in 1998. There is a tv-antenna with tv-cables, which we don't need. But since the cables were inside of conduits, we were able to use those conduits to install Ethernet cables. And we're able to put the modem up in the roof to get the best signal and use ethernet cabling to have several wifi base stations (?) around the house to get proper coverage.
in Sweden we have heating cables around water pipes, so the water doesn't freeze
Or inside the pipes
No we dont, only in locations were the are suspect to freeze.
in Finland we dig them under frost layer or insulate them, no need for heating
@@jaripukki267 And yet, I have installed several kilometers of freeze prevention cables to water pipes, sewers and rainwater systems in southern Finland. Insulation is not enough, if the water isn't running constantly.
I have seen frozen water pipe with 30 mm glued flexible foam and 200 mm rockwool around it, with a bit too weak trace heat cable. -20C and 2 week vacation, when there wasn't anyone using the water was too much for it. The cable used there was 10 W/m and only went straight through one time. We added another 18/36 W self limiting cable beside it.
Those trace heating cables are everywhere around here, if you know where to look.
@@villehietala9677 badly installed then
From a Swedish builder, interesting video, and regarding nailguns, we always use these especially on roofing :-) - we need effiency 🙂
Hi, i had both of electric heat cable, inside the water pipe and on the outside. Roof tiles is made of clay or concrete. Building a wall its more common to not use plywood/OSB on the outside of the wall bec Tyvek/asfaboard let the wall breathe better, we use it on the inside. The moisture comes from the inside of the house and we do not want it to go in to the constructions. Notice that we do not need to crawl under the floor joists, we can install the 1x4 in the joist before w install the joists, then we can do every thing from inside the house. What happend if you not use a preinstall tube for wireing and you get a nail hitting the wire. Then you must install a new wire on the outside of the wall or open the hole wall. We also want our floor to be inside the house and not under the wall connect to the outside. The wooden planks we normal use on the roof comes pre installed like a board sheet with different C/C lenght so its easy and quick to install.
Not sure if I misunderstood, but the normal way of installing electric cables are through plastic tubes, with a line lying there to pull the cable.
And the voltage doesn't really matter, the reason for thicker cords is for safety in general.
And is it standard in th US to have grounded electriciy? That makes for an extra cord inside the cable, which makes it bigger
1kW machine takes 4A at 225V and 8A at 112V. With higher voltage the current will be in general lower. Lower current = less thickness of the power cable. To my 105m2 home (4 people) I just have a 16A fuse. But because its 3 faze and 400V we never have had a power failure. Even if we both run the electric oven, micro, tumble dryer and dishwasher at the same time. Its heated by central heating system pipe from the government.
Also one nice thing to see in Sweden. You now days more or less newer see any power cables in the sky. It just those transmitting lines between cities that have them. All other ones are in the ground instead.
31:30 Nail gun is used because it's faster to put nails than any kind of screwing method. Nail gun is about making it faster to install, screwing things on place is about making it strong.
I'm currently following my brother's process of building a countryside/summer house (we're in Sweden) on his own, so this is very interesting to me. The old house on the property my brother bought is no longer fit to live in or renovate, so it'll be torn down. He's going to check with fire department if they want to use it for practice and torch it. Fun times :)
11:25
To keep the water pipe frost-free, the heating cable can be placed on the outside or inserted into the water pipe. It offers many advantages, such as in situations where pipes are already buried or located beneath buildings.
A residual current device (RCD) must always be used in conjunction with the heating cable. It is designed for 230V, with 2 conductors and a power output of 10.0 W/m, and includes a 2 m cold cable.
The cable has an armored PVC sheath. Installation must be carried out by a qualified electrician in accordance with current electrical regulations.
Installation instructions are included. Cable threading for placement in pipes/hoses is not included.
Cable length: 25 m
Outer diameter: 5.5 mm
Power output: 10.0 W/m
Rain is often combined with heavy winds here in Scandinavia so you cannot easily put a giant tarp over a partially finished building and expect it to stay for even a single rain, never mind extended time periods.
As for cables being and electrician I can fill in that cables here in Finland are all solid wire double insulated cables and electrical piping was and is used only when you don't have double insulated cable available (then you have to use single strands of solid insulated wire) or if there is a risk for cable damage from abrasion or other reasons. I've never seen flex cables used in a construction except as low voltage cables, flex for 240v is used only in commercial / industrial settings.
the heating cable is outside of the waterpipe, its goes around it and just keeps the pipe above freezing level in winter
Or you can have the heating inside the pipes
Yeah, isolated heat cable is put inside the pipes everywhere you can't get pipes or drains down below frost level. That can also be applied on downpipes from the roof. It is often combined with, probably always combined with, some kind of frost guard engaging around below 40F.
40:00 - braided copper wire means that the wire inside the rubber insulation layer is made up of tiny like.. 0.5mm or perhaps even thinner (dunno not an electrician) small wires which are then braided together to form the conducting part of the cable. Solid copper would be just that. Entirely solid conductor - sometimes supported by a smaller gauge braided copper liner in-between the inner conductor and the outer plastic/rubber insulator.
Examples of that here in Sweden would be old cable tv coaxial cables you used to find in old apartments before the availability of fiberoptic broadband internet became more less ubiquitous across the country.
I used to do customer support for one of the country's primary Internet, TV and Phone provider, that's how I know about it. And boy do people mistreat and misunderstand the properties and limitations associated with those cables, but that is a different story.
The cable is outside the pipe, between it and insulation. Just hook it up in wintertime and no freezes occure. It´s a very cheap way to ensure no ice buildup, only around 1W/meter consumption of energy.
People building houses by them self is not that uncommon, I helped my father out building a house 20 years ago, he's built an other one by him self after that. He wasn't even a carpenter but had dreamt of being a furniture carpenter in his youth. His day job was a telecom executive and the second house was built in his retired years. My grand father on my mothers side also built him self a house, he was a mansion by trade and when around demolition sites and requested spare brick that he cleaned and laid into a new house. So at least in my family this is the thing you do.
Interesting vid! I’ve recently thoroughly renovated a house and will hopefully not have to build a house to my self again. But the different techniques are an interesting subject!
In the Netherlands. Goes all the electricity through a PVC pipe. into the wall. And the light at the point where it is used. Is it 16 or 19 mm. And the wires are assembled per pipe. For an outlet, brown blue and green / yellow. for a switch, black is added. And then there are some more combinations with the wiring.
Brown is plus Blue is minus and green/yellow is earth. And black is the switch wire and in slightly thinner.
I don´t think you have DC (direct current) in the Netherlands (you have DC with +/- in your Car). I think you mean: Brown conductor is Hot (or Live) and Blue conductor is Neutral. And the Black, switch wire, has the same diameter as the Hot anf Neutral.
The cable runs along the water pipe and both are encased within a larger "protective pipe cover". It's not a conductive cable IN the waterpipe. You have to do that if you can't bury the pipe deep enough, or your waterpipe will burst in the winter.
The hammerband method isn't the standard, at least not in Norway. It's done, but is by no means the standard. Also most common is to put down the floor plates ( unless you're using a solid wood floor ) , build the walls lying on the floor and raise them afterwards, not placing one and one stud as in the video.
In Canada the latest insulation standards came out not too long ago and because of it I have a feeling they will be building houses very much to this standard with the 6 inch walls to get 20R insulation. We don't usually heat our pipes but they do bury them below frost depth to counteract this.
6 inch? In Sweden we build like 12 inch walls.
@Possimpablee yea I can see the layers he added on and frankly I like the thicker exterior walls. The average house here is built with 2x4 studs (3.5inch thick) then usually half inch plywood on the outside and half inch drywall on the inside. A lot of people apply additional insulation on the outside as well but from what I've seen that's basic construction here. They exterior usually gets siding on it if it's not already brick. When being constructed with brick it's obviously thicker as an air gap is applied in between the brick and plywood layer l, probably getting you closer to a 12 inch thick wall in that situation.
"We don't usually heat our pipes but they do bury them below frost depth to counteract this."
That is hard when building on bedrock.
My dad and I built my house in rural Sweden when I was in my late twenties.
I basically made the floor plans and the overall design and he, being an engineer, provided the nessecary know-how.
To make things less expensive we also made most of the wood boards (he has a very small saw mill) so first we spent a lot of time cutting down trees and pulling them home on sleds on the snow, then cutting the logs up and letting them dry.
The house is about 1000sqf and mostly constructed in the same way as shown in this video.
As for “screw gun”, there are screw guns specifically for plasterboard screws, which takes belted screws and screws them in in half a second. As for the vapor barrier, the condensation happens when the air moves through the wall and gets cooler. By sealing the wall, this doesn’t happen at all as no air moves through the walls, instead it happens in the ventilation system, which is designed to handle the moisture.
What you would call plywood is in fact OSB, actual plywood is made from full sheets of thinner wood.
My dad was a legend. He built many houses on his own. He taught me to put wind barrier on the outside, and moisture barrier on the inside.
The heater is usally inside in the lining of the waterpipe. It just to keep it above freezing temp.
ca.12:00 regarding the heating cable. It is a heated electric cable that you put along side the water pipe and then the two are insulated within some styrofoam sheats. This keeps the pipe above freezing when the ground around goes solid of frost.
There are some that go inside the pipe as well.
I'm from sweden, but spent a year in Florida when I was younger. What struck me the most was there are these quite big houses, but when you go inside, there aren't that many bedrooms as you would think..more open areas, sometimes with no apparent purpose. For example oddly place lounge area that nobody care to use, or unproportionally big entrance area and stairs to the second floor like a mini palace, althought the rest of the house doesn’t match the size of the entrance.
Not saying that it's wrong, but it's just different.
Like the builder in the video said, Sweden actually used to be one of the poorest countries in europe just 120 years ago give or take, so building a house was a big deal. Every bit of space must fill a function. Also warming up "dead space" simply cost more energy. We still carry that legacy to some extent, even though more extravagant house designs have started popping up here as well, with big open spaces panoramic windows etc.
Vapour barriers not really used in Australia, it's usually insulation bats and gyprock/dryer wall on the interior and bricks on the outside
29:40 the tung and grew.board is not very rain sensetive. So if its exposed to rain a few days is not really a issue. It just need to be dry when the surface layer is put on.
This is a problem with osb or plywood that really dont like rain.
The difference in electrical is the nordic country use 3 phase 220v which allows for smaller wire size . The size is 14 or 16 guage stranded wire . They are indvidual insulated wire which can be pulled inside of a pvc flexible conduit. The electrical ɓoxes are mounted externally on the walls not internally
11:52 super common here! If you drill for water close to the house, it doesn’t need to be heated for many meters…
heating cable in the waterpipe is not uncommon at all if you have your own well, we have a 25 meter cable in our pipe,the well is about 30 meters from the house, and the pipe is laying pretty shallow,so to prevent it from freezing in the wintertime,this heatcable is on a timer, 15 minutes every 6 hours, whitstands negative 30 C whit ease
Yes. Scandinavian houses are better. So much better. Thats because we start building even under the house. And all stuff is high guality. One median size (150m2) house takes usualluy at least 2 years to build and cost 3-400000€,and its only basic, not so fancy.
If you build it on your spare time it takes two years. Otherwise more like a few months.
Norwegian carpenter here, we build new houses in 6 to 8 months mostly depending on the size of the house of course
@@Jens92 But it takes months to make concrete mature/hardened. And after concrete maturing it takes months to make it dry. And only after that you can start building the house itself. That is if ofcourse if you make the base footing out of concrete. Or do you use block bricks instead? Anyway buildings which are built on unmatured AND wet concrete foundation won't last more than 20-30 years atleast here in Finland. Norway's climate is not that different.
@@ttiwaz4398 yes we use block bricks. Usually the concrete is dry enough to fasten wood to it after a couple of days. Same with concrete on the floor. I bet Norway and Finland got the same climate yes, but i have never seen concrete being to wet to not fasten anything to it after 2 days
More like 6-9 months from blasting the ground to the last nail
the heating vire for water is outide the waterpipe not inside
@31:01 Here (NL) Asphalt is used often for flat roofs as it can be made waterproof, but is not very durable (20 years). Most sloped roofs are ceramic tile, which except for replacing a few tiles after storms are without problems for the first 40 years, and can last even longer (by sorting tiles and replacing bad ones halfway through the lifetime)
But isn't there a danger of the roof caving in,if you get a lot of snow?
@@johnnyguitar6639 the tiles are harder than asphalt aan shingles, and it is the structure below that carries the load. Not that we get much snow to begin with. 20-30cm in more exceptional cases
The first minutes construction is typical nordic bulding style and when it comes to spacing and timber size.
Basements are not allowed in sweden nowdays as sewage systems are put more shallow. In some areas you can get allowed to make a basement but often it is quite expensive due to alot of extra sewage stuff you need to make.
Most commonly you make a concrete plate with water based heating integrated in it.
Many countries buy swedish timber as it is better suited for house building, higher quality. Mostlty spruce and pine.
17:30 sweden uses hammer bands, stronger with less material.
C-beam is hammer band on both sides, both outboard and inboard.
22:00 most common is to use floorboards (OSB) that you switch to use as wall boards. And then add other floorboards that are thicker.
OSB is rough shavings that are press glued, cheap but strong. 37:40 no plywood is laminated wood with the grain rotated 90 deg in each layer.
29:30 I guess he just wanted to make as much as possible before the rain :).
32:00 yes the swedes use both nails and screws just the way you explained.
34:00 With insulation you want to have it ventilated due to moist but still important to prevent the air to move to much within the insulation. I agree that the inside plastic is better due to the natural ventilation from the outside air.
40:30 as we have an extra insulating wall 2in thick we can put the outlets on boards so they level out with the inner wall surface.
Many times basement works bad due to it get flooded to easy in many spots. And hard to get the draining work well or it's pure rock and who want to pay to blow that open for a basememt?
240 vac means lower current/amps and thinner leads in the cables, thus easier to pull through the conduits.
He forgets one very important country....... Japan!
They makes a lot of wooden houses and do this with out nails and screws in traditional houses!!
When he talks about Scandinavian standards he is wrong in his assumptions of equal standards due to storms and wind influence!
In Denmark the roof of our houses are anchored in the foundation from the load bearing beam of the roof construction every 3 - 3,5 metres (9,84 - 11,48 ft.)!!
Also called the strap of roof construction!
All this because of our massive coastline around of the country and we have some pretty hefty storms here with wind speeds up to 160 km/h (approx. 100 miles), so not the same exact codes in all of Scandinavia!!!!!
Kindly the Danish Viking
Outlets are put in the area between plaster osb board and vapourbarier not to punkture the barrier….
The outlet is fastened in the osb and conduits with wires inside in the inside of vapourbarrier
35:30 its a seperate thin wall built to house plumbing and electrical work so that it inside the wall, but doesnt mess with the insulation. and yeah makes for a easier workflow in electrical work and plumbing
For your info you can put the swedish outlets below or above the horizontal "beam" because they are made with wide variety of installing methods also osb is what you say plywood or a version of plywood:D
I am from Estonia.. we are under Sweden and historically houses were built from wood.
Vaata kaarti, mees! Me oleme kõrgemal kui see koht, kus tema oma maja ehitas!
11:25
In northern Norway we have a heating cable that runs on the outside of the pipe. We normally get temperatures down to -40⁰C (-40⁰F).
Gjør vi nå det? 🤪
@@reialise Vi hadde -32 igår kveld, og -36 forrige uke.
@@Jmvars normalt sett gjør jo ikke hele Nord Norge det. Enten bor du i Øverbygd eller så bor du på vidda.
Det jeg er ifra er det uhyre sjelden noe slikt forekommer. Mulig ny bygge standar krever varmekabel på vannrør. Det vet jeg ikke noe om. 🤪
There was rain comming in, and he was trying to protect the insulation underneath.
You can build with a basement in Sweden too, or a slab, or crawl space, whatever fits your requirements.
Plywood is built of multiple layers of thin wood sheets that are laid cross fibered and OSB is basically glued and pressed wood chips which is cheaper.
There are diffrent wite types for post installation in conduits.
Nk =one fk=like 5 strands
mk =many more strands
Standard cable area for max 13 amp is 1.5 square mm. 2400w
16 amp is 2.5 square mm.
3600w
If there is need for more power like stoves ,waterheaters and electric heating ,heat pumps.
They use 3 phase 400 v power
The conduits are 16 0r 22 mm diameter, but there is bigger (like 50mm) and smaller pipes the smaller is mostly used for floorheat censors . (like 10 mm)
There is pvc free plastic without flame redarder and softner additives
Or pvc insulated with these additives to choose from , Both i cabels and conduit.
The installation boxes for electricity goes on installation wall wood inside the plastic layer there is a telescopic ring in the box that goes through the hole that is cut in the inside wall layers ,the ele equipment is fastened to the ring.
I have exactly that, freeze safe water and sewage pipes or it will freeze up in winter, my house is 100km south of Stockholm
Wood has low thermal conductivity and therefore high heat-insulating capacity. Wooden houses stay warm easier than stone buildings that get colder and colder as the winter goes on and the stone cools down. Makes sense why Nordic houses have traditionally been all wood.
But if a stone house is heated up in the winter, it keeps the heat long :)
There is so many different way to build, as mentioned...cralw space, is it cold or "heated" normally recomendation is heated that doesn't really means heated, but insulated.
Concreat slab is very common, and has normally 300mm od styroform insulation. Normally it is equippeds with a water based floor heating system.
Basemet is rarely built any longer, but i prefer it....I think both cost, energy requirement and radon gas could be reasons?
The C-beam ....I would perfer to call it an L -joist/beam , and it is common....but for one building I used 90x225 mm since there was a huge tree that had a risk to fall at the house.
Normally the outer side has 45mm joist cross the beams, this to increase insultation and reduce noice transportation.
There is energy requirement for new built houses, the usage for heat MUST be less than 90kwh/m² (C-klass) for permanent residence.
Screw or nail for construction, if the wood is dry, the risk for the screw will break is reduced. For example when concreat is poured into a wooden frame, after a few days several of screws will be broken due to expanding forces inside the frame, this doesn't happens to nails. When i screw construction screw for larger beams (2 by 7 or larger, I use 8mm (these screw is 6 mm in thinnest position). But to use screw for joist hanger is perfect.
OSB (oriented strand board) is typical 12mm almost 1/2" .
For bathroom, I think the standard is RECOMENDED to be 15mm construction playwood, and distance between beams can be different if it is tile or plastic carpet that is used, but also height of wall has to be involved in discussion normally is 30cm/1 feet or 45cm/1,5feet be selected.
For roof, the most common for roof is to use an underlay product of plastic and bitumen. The old has a high content of bitumen and a weak fiber structure but is a bit more resistent to UV light. The newer has greater tear strength, withstand higher water pressure, but is weak for UV light. Shall always be covered with top layer of bitumen (asphalt impregnated pruduct) or with roof tiles (concrete or clay) easiest is to use concreate, but they are heavier.
For rafters, if I rembember correct, there is 10 different snow load zones in Sweden, and this is dimentioning the size of rafters, distance between rafters, angle of roof etc.
Electrical installaition is normally done with flexible conduit (in some installation with plastic pipe). Both cable insulation (stranded copper wire) and pipe should be in halogen free material. The apparatus box with stubs for flexible conduit or plastic tubing is fixed to studs in several different positions, I prefer to use two 4" nails. All plumbing and electrical installation should be done inside the vapor barrier. Forced ventilation is required when using vapor barrier. Inside since during winter time (negfative deg C) the air outside can't carry same amount of humidity as the warm air inside and if this warm air would cool down inside an insulation, the risk for condensation is high, therefore use vapor barrier inside. MINIMUM 70% of insulation outside of barrier. Severa different system can be used such as diffusion open vapor barrier, moisture absorbing insulation etc.
I think the insulation in US that was mentioned as not healthy, was the PU-foam .... BUT I think the risk is only during spraying and hardening process?
We had the plumber putting a heatingcable up the waterinnlet ...the main one so it goes all the way out to the public ones. It basically is a low volt thing plasticcover cable. once the water freezes its just hit the button and within like a minute or so .... water start running again.... or I could if I wanted to just leave it on it does not draw alot of electricity according to the plumber. We used to have a cable twisted around the pipe or along the pipe but that honestly do take longer time....
31:55 a screw gun is really quite fast. Takes less than a second to screw one in.
The main issue is you only have like 50 screws in the magazine so you need to reload all the time.
Aren't screw guns usually limited to something like 5-6 cm (2-2½ inch) long screws? I've only used them for putting up plaster sheets.
I would imagine that the strips with the screws are annoying to work with if the screws get too long.
i can run 75mm in mine, possibly even 80 (have not tried). Granted the feed is not perfect at 75mm so 70 probobly works better (every like 3rd or 4th screw hang up).
And its really not often you need more. Say a typical fiberboard floor is 22mm and then you wold need 45mm screws.
For plaster and OSB wall its 24mm combined, so you need 50mm screws.
Its really only ever when you work with construction lumber it don´t work, and then its really not that many screws anyway.
On top of that, torx is pretty much standard for construction screws, and typically T30 unlike the P2 used for the smaller screws. So i use two machine regardless so i don´t have to change the bits.
38:00 This is chip boards(OBS) (not Play-wood), its in its name ply-wood - layered board with different grain orientations wich can take alot more than chip boards, chip boards r made of wood chips and glue pressed and baked together under high pressure
Edit: unless ur planning on hanging somting weighing a tonne or so on the wall, ply-wood are not really nessesary
In Sweden there is a company called "Älvsbyhus" they build the house in a factory and then disassemble it and ship it anywhere to be assembled.
Det finns fler än älvsbyhus..
We don't run stranded wire in conduit. We run solid copper core.
The water heating cable runs along the length outside of the water pipe, not inside where there is water
I've heard screws can't be used in certain applications because they are not good with sheer forces and tend to snap and break unexpectedly where nails are very good at preventing this. I use screws for everything I can because it forces to surfaces together and keeps them there. When doing flooring an additional measure is carpenters glue with screws. They best way would still be screwless with joints being interlocking, but it is too time consuming.
Screws used to snap, he shows how a modern screw bends, just like a nail
@tortap that might be the case for the screws they use there. I'm not a carpenter here in Canada but I have heard many times over that ordinary screws cannot be used in structural situations. They do sell structural screws that are quite expensive but not all of them are rated to be used this way.
Thanks for the breakdown! Could you help me with something unrelated: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How can I transfer them to Binance?
My father was an Architect, so I know a bit of house construction.
There are regulations for dimentions and how big of an angle the roof has to be, depending on where in Sweden
30:55 he's probably refering to clay tiles, rather common for roofs on this side of the pond
27:45 In the USA, it is common to use various agents and additives in all materials, so also in foodstuffs, which for a reason are prohibited in the EU.
If you have dry eyes you need to drink more water.
I used to get dry eyes when i worked nights and i realised i was just not drinking enough and it made the eyes feel like i had lemon in them.
Yes at frost level you need to heat the water so the pipes doesn't burst
It is warmer in Sweden compared with Alaska and Canada because of the Golf stream that passes Iceland and then southern Norway and Denmark.
Being born into construction and being Swedish this was absolutely great entertainment! Thank you RUclips algorithm!
electric heated waterline is usaly done in 2 ways a single heat element running the lenght inside the pipe, or a dual pipe with a heatelement wrapped around the inner pipe with a second cover pipe outside, it usaly comes with 2 powersettings, defrost and continous opperating power. and ofcorse off. This video is only 1 option for nordic house building, 1 floor and 2 floor houses are pretty common, usaly with basement as the 1 floor, often also a 3 floor under the sealing for bedroms or a second livingroom or both. it just all depends on cost.
If you have more thinner copper wires that are braided, you get the same volume of copper but Omar flexible cable😉
There is absolutely no braided copper wire used in wires at least in Finland and Sweden. Conduits are required. The most important thing for doing the conduits (we mostly install solid hard plastic conduits) is to have a large turn radius since we use solid copper wires. I see no problem to pull them through conduit.
The cables that run inside the conduits are braided (multi stranded). Otherwise they would be hard to install…
@@rothorman My house has zero braided cables and they all run in conduits. It's not hard to pull as you have conduits lardge enough and proper radius in the bends. Its not hard to pull solid conductor cables.
Osb is oriented strand board not plywood. plywood is thin sheets of board full width and length glued together
When he said that we use braided wire it is not the correct word for it. I would rather say we use multi core wires instead of solid core wire, so a wire consisting of multiple thinner copper threads in the core instead of a solid copper. These are more flexible and can be more easily passed through a flex conduit. This fits well with our 220v. I would guess this does not float well with 110v system where you have higher amperage.
but we do put solid core 1.5mm and 2.5mm in conduit also.
OSB is wood chips compressed and glued together to form plywood. Regular plywood is thin layers of wood compressed and glued together. OSB is the cheapest and worse type of plywood you can have because it is very susceptable to moisture and falls apart fast when introduced to moisture. Best plywood would be form plywood or thick plywood that is also pressure treated. Just recently used 5/8" form ply on the outside of a crawlspace i was insulating and modernizing and it is incredibly tough and strong.
I'm currently building my own house. Been working on it for a couple of years. (can not work that many hours per day because of... reasons..), I'm an IT tech, took help with the foundation and the exterior framing together with the roof, except for that I've built all by myself, youtube is a good source for information, only taking help regarding the electricity and that is because of legal reasons. :(
Building permits in Sweden wasn't always this way.
But in the 1960's the government overbuilt housing in the "million programme" where they built a million houses and apartments in a rent controlled environment.
When rent control was relaxed there was a massive surplus of housing so the government in it's wisdom made building permits harder to get. Before that you didn't really need building permits for a lot of things especially in the countryside. And municipalities had area planning not specific house planning.
I never use vapor barrier plastic in roof and wall structures. I use always tarpaper, always.
40:00 Solid copper bar vs thinner braided copper lines. Yes the thinner braided ones are more flexible.
OSB is basically low grade plywood. The builder in this video seems to like it but it's getting out of style here in Finland because of outgassing a lot. We built our house in M1 spec in Finland and it cannot contain any OSB or plywood in inside the vapor barrier because the material would outgas too much.
I used to work as a diamond driller and borer, I COMPLETELY understand your fear of big blades..
Try working with a bonghead, a meter in diameter blade, to cut through concrete, dude got stuck and the damn machine ran away from him... luckily noone got hurt..
But that kind of blade scare the shit out of me...!!
I was half way in, before I realized this is a Swedish guy talking with an American bot, on how he builds houses in Sweden. I thought it was an American guy, building in the US.