wow, nice job with the hydraulics. Looks like you were still learning how to judge the depth with the down power of the new hydraulic plow. We had a 1970 speedex when I was growing up with all the attachments but my dad sold it. Wish I had it now for my garden! Thanks for sharing...
Calcium in the tires help a lot and on my old Power king with the original draw bar we would just move the plow left or right of center to take more or less"bite" and also it would put more down ward force on the tire that was in the furrow,,,i could plow in high gear(3rd) full throttle and throw dirt frow the plow into the air,,lol...Miss the old girl,,tandem trans and all the attachments except for the backhoe and front loader..
@januaryman169 I think I need to reweld the disc mount. It's as low as it will go and it's not very low. I took this plow as a cratsman with a different type of three point for a craftman hitch. I had to cut and weld some stuff and I didn't get all of it right.
It looks like an open drive shaft bit it's not. It's a stationary tube from the bell housing to the differential. The shaft is enclosed and even sealed with gaskets.
^yes. I can adjust the link on each of the three connections. by doing it unequally it tilts the plow left or right.. I have not thought of doing it though. I just set it around level. it's not a completely independent adjustment. it would mess with the yaw some too. next time I'll try it. I hope you get to see this response. I had turned off comments and am going to again. don't knew how they got back on. some of the comments are just name calling and insults. that's RUclips.
@whspioneer89 I think that there is no down pressure on the plow. It is adjusted for positive rake and digs down without force. In fact, if I don't lower the plow it will pull the front wheels up. When I give it less rake then it does require down force and the wheels slip very badly. But it does pull the front up some anyway and I sometimes get the front and back wheels out of the furrow. The brakes help steering when this happens.
Hey bilk, That's a clever rig you've got there. Nice collection of birds too. Have you thought to allow for the plow to "lean" so when the right wheels are in the gutter the plow remains straight. On our 77 Massey with a 10" Brinly that seems very important. Quality fabrication on your part here.
@dugas1814 If I blocked the left wheel and then adjusted the plow flat, when I put it off the block the plow would be sending the dirt up instead of over to the right where I want it to be turned over. When I don't have it angled to the right I get a big mound of dirt that just builds up until I get so stuck I have to stop and back out of it. Let's talk about this because I would like to see if I could improve it without having to add wheel weights.
Something to keep in mind this that this garden tractor weighs 400 lbs. Over on the yahoo tractorking-economy-jim dandy forum there's plenty of opinion that you need wheel weights and something up front too.
I think what dugas is trying to say is, the disc should be be just to the left of the plow. The disc cuts a guide, then the plow just lifts the dirt and rolls it over. Also, on adjusting the plow, block the left wheel up however deep the plow cuts. then adjust the plow level to the ground. That way while your tractor may be leaning to the right the plow is flat.
Shouldn’t need down pressure on a plow if it’s set up correctly. Down pressure will actually make it worse as it takes weight off your drive wheels. The plow should want to go deeper and the tractor has to hold it up thus putting more weight onto the drive wheels giving better traction.
I agree,The tractor just needs weight,and throttle back some.I just got done building a row hipper for my 1968 JD110 with hydraulics,they dont make them for garden tractors,works better then I expected for just the cost of the welding rod.
We did this forever with a PK plow and NO hydraulics. You do need to put the plow in and out while in motion. Yes, we had calcium chloride. Now, I need to replace rusty rims.
@dugas1814 Could you say more about centering too. All of the hitches I looked at, other than one on a farmall cub, were centered. I could adjust the arms a little to move it over. But do you mean I need to remake the hitch so that it's to the right? There's only a few inches clearance between the arms and the tires so there's not much room to move things. Or do you mean I need to angle it to the right?
you need to put a 4" block of wood under the left wheel then adjust the plow so it touches the ground flat on the bottom . also the plow should not be in the center , it should be more to the right so you only cut as wide as the bottom of the plow it will do a better job
when plowing you really shouldn't have down pressure on the plow. The Plow needs to be adjusted correctly so it will naturally plow to a set depth. The rear, and front, tires should be in the open furrow and the plow set up so that it rolls the plowed ground into the furrow evenly so it doesn't stand the furrow up on it's end or leave gaps. By having down pressure on the three point and the plow it keeps taking weight of the rear wheels which is why you are spinning so much.
I try to get it to plow as deep as possible. Until I've made some wheel weights, what I do is lower it until the wheels slip then bump the plow back up just a small amout and then re-lower it. Kind of running on the edge of what is possible with my limited traction. I think with more weight it will really fly at full depth.
that looks like a garden tractor on steroids. They don't build em like that anymore at that size! Well maybe some japanese import tractors but even kubota doesn't sell em to the retail american market that small and at that level of construction/quality
Oh those jim dandy's.Love the tractor, main thing is you looked like you were having a great time. Thanks for the video!
wow, nice job with the hydraulics. Looks like you were still learning how to judge the depth with the down power of the new hydraulic plow. We had a 1970 speedex when I was growing up with all the attachments but my dad sold it. Wish I had it now for my garden! Thanks for sharing...
Calcium in the tires help a lot and on my old Power king with the original draw bar we would just move the plow left or right of center to take more or less"bite" and also it would put more down ward force on the tire that was in the furrow,,,i could plow in high gear(3rd) full throttle and throw dirt frow the plow into the air,,lol...Miss the old girl,,tandem trans and all the attachments except for the backhoe and front loader..
Good moning you
@januaryman169
I think I need to reweld the disc mount. It's as low as it will go and it's not very low. I took this plow as a cratsman with a different type of three point for a craftman hitch. I had to cut and weld some stuff and I didn't get all of it right.
Chickens love it ! lots of bugs !
It looks like an open drive shaft bit it's not. It's a stationary tube from the bell housing to the differential. The shaft is enclosed and even sealed with gaskets.
^yes. I can adjust the link on each of the three connections. by doing it unequally it tilts the plow left or right.. I have not thought of doing it though. I just set it around level. it's not a completely independent adjustment. it would mess with the yaw some too. next time I'll try it.
I hope you get to see this response. I had turned off comments and am going to again. don't knew how they got back on. some of the comments are just name calling and insults. that's RUclips.
@whspioneer89
I think that there is no down pressure on the plow. It is adjusted for positive rake and digs down without force. In fact, if I don't lower the plow it will pull the front wheels up. When I give it less rake then it does require down force and the wheels slip very badly. But it does pull the front up some anyway and I sometimes get the front and back wheels out of the furrow. The brakes help steering when this happens.
Hey bilk,
That's a clever rig you've got there. Nice collection of birds too. Have you thought to allow for the plow to "lean" so when the right wheels are in the gutter the plow remains straight. On our 77 Massey with a 10" Brinly that seems very important.
Quality fabrication on your part here.
@dugas1814
If I blocked the left wheel and then adjusted the plow flat, when I put it off the block the plow would be sending the dirt up instead of over to the right where I want it to be turned over. When I don't have it angled to the right I get a big mound of dirt that just builds up until I get so stuck I have to stop and back out of it. Let's talk about this because I would like to see if I could improve it without having to add wheel weights.
Something to keep in mind this that this garden tractor weighs 400 lbs. Over on the yahoo tractorking-economy-jim dandy forum there's plenty of opinion that you need wheel weights and something up front too.
Thanks tracktorman64. It is a blast. The walk behind tiller used to beat me up in the lower back and this takes 15 minutes and I wish it took longer.
billk29 anyway to get ahold of you so I can add these features go mine I need some more pictures
I think what dugas is trying to say is, the disc should be be just to the left of the plow. The disc cuts a guide, then the plow just lifts the dirt and rolls it over. Also, on adjusting the plow, block the left wheel up however deep the plow cuts. then adjust the plow level to the ground. That way while your tractor may be leaning to the right the plow is flat.
Shouldn’t need down pressure on a plow if it’s set up correctly. Down pressure will actually make it worse as it takes weight off your drive wheels. The plow should want to go deeper and the tractor has to hold it up thus putting more weight onto the drive wheels giving better traction.
I agree,The tractor just needs weight,and throttle back some.I just got done building a row hipper for my 1968 JD110 with hydraulics,they dont make them for garden tractors,works better then I expected for just the cost of the welding rod.
We did this forever with a PK plow and NO hydraulics. You do need to put the plow in and out while in motion. Yes, we had calcium chloride. Now, I need to replace rusty rims.
@dugas1814
Could you say more about centering too. All of the hitches I looked at, other than one on a farmall cub, were centered. I could adjust the arms a little to move it over. But do you mean I need to remake the hitch so that it's to the right? There's only a few inches clearance between the arms and the tires so there's not much room to move things. Or do you mean I need to angle it to the right?
It needs to have isolated float in the hydraulics
I'm figurin thats a Power King tractor he's plowing with.
you need to put a 4" block of wood under the left wheel then adjust the plow so it touches the ground flat on the bottom . also the plow should not be in the center , it should be more to the right so you only cut as wide as the bottom of the plow it will do a better job
Thats a nice setup! Although i'm really surprised it was struggling that much, im guessing too much down pressure was lifting the wheels?
Tough little mule.
when plowing you really shouldn't have down pressure on the plow. The Plow needs to be adjusted correctly so it will naturally plow to a set depth. The rear, and front, tires should be in the open furrow and the plow set up so that it rolls the plowed ground into the furrow evenly so it doesn't stand the furrow up on it's end or leave gaps. By having down pressure on the three point and the plow it keeps taking weight of the rear wheels which is why you are spinning so much.
Nice.
It don't want down pressure on your plow you wanted to float a little
I try to get it to plow as deep as possible. Until I've made some wheel weights, what I do is lower it until the wheels slip then bump the plow back up just a small amout and then re-lower it. Kind of running on the edge of what is possible with my limited traction. I think with more weight it will really fly at full depth.
that looks like a garden tractor on steroids. They don't build em like that anymore at that size! Well maybe some japanese import tractors but even kubota doesn't sell em to the retail american market that small and at that level of construction/quality
wow! the technology is so good. How can I get one and what are the prices? I need it seriously
There is no way that weighs less than 400. A Sears Custom 6m in '66 weighed 500 w/out a mowing deck.
"all that tractor"? It only weighs less than 400 pounds and it's buried the plow down to the hitch. It can't go any deeper.
WHEEL WEIGHTS would help a lot
You do know your valve has a float position?
A dif lock will work nice on that :) ??
You need isolated float
CHICKENS
The open drive shaft seems dangerous. Is their typically a cover on that ?
Did you ever think of doing this with moldboard plow at half that height ?
Budget
Some wheel weight and ballast in the tires would help alot
it should do better than that you got all that tractor and can barley break the dirt
M