How'd it go? I got mine set up and running two weeks ago, I've ran about 1200 rounds of 9mm through it so far and love it. I'm getting some .223 dies and shell plate in a few days along with the mini Mr bullet feeder (one for 9mm and one for .223), double alpha powder check and the collator for the case feeder tubes, it's already a fast press but those items will really kick things up a notch. I'd love to eventually get one of those automatic bullet and case feeders for it, but I'll have to wait until my budget and reloading space allows for it, they're a little on the pricey side, like quadruple the cost of the press for both together😢.
Look into the Inline Fabs' mounts. They have both an inlaid mount that you can put into your bench and keep it at the same level you have, and they also have those elevated mounts that are just as sturdy. They're made from heavy gauge steel and the eleveated ones will bring the press up to eye level, or a lot closer to eye level and the press arm will be a littl more convenient for you. I first bought the inlaid mount for my Loadmaster, and after using it, I bought mouting plates for all of my presses and tools I use on my loading/Work bench.
I had the same issue with my six pack pro case feeder pulling the case back out. What i found was the mouth of the pusher is rolled in so i trimmed to fit. I also had a feeding issue with the 6.5 creedmoor case not feeding into the shell plate. I noticed the shell plate was a few thousandths higher than the case rail. So i sanded the bottom of the shell plate till it was flush with the case rail.
I enjoyed watching your reloading process, I'm always looking for mods to make my process easier, and that bar looks like it helps a lot. I wonder if you can shorten it a bit and it would shorten the stroke just a tad without messing anything up? Because it looks like your arm is kind of high starting out, and it looks like it ends way down by your knees when sitting it'd probably be a lot more comfortable with a slightly shorter stroke. As far as your case pusher goes I would suggest maybe putting some 1000 or even 2000 grit sandpaper around a pen, or dowel rod and giving it a light sanding in the part of the pusher that curves around the case holding it from tipping to the sides, to get any potential burrs out. If that didn't work I would be tempted to glue a super thin piece of slick metal flashing or something like that in there to 1 act as a slicker surface and 2 to force it a tiny bit further forward due to it's thickness. Great video! I enjoy watching people like you putting out content helping us in the reloading community!
Thanks for watching. And sorry I haven’t done more content. Had some stuff going on at work but that is getting straightened out now. The handle is not as bad as it seems in the video. I think it has more to do with my seating position and camera angle. As far as the case feeder I figured that out to bee the case pusher was just a bit too loose. I tightened the screw about an 8th of a turn and had no more issues. Again thanks for watching and I hope to get more videos up in the coming months.
@@aubreyfishingandoutdoors5479 Awesome! It's good to know they were just simple stuff that doesn't require a load of effort to fix! I look forward to seeing some new videos come out on any of the reloading stuff. (Maybe once and for all solve the detent ball slapping the case so hard on the pro 1000 it knocks a little powder out? Or an easy way to get the primers to accurately drop on a pro 1000?) Honestly thinking about it there was definitely a reason for lee to design the 6000 the way they did lol! I have a couple of the pro 1000 with the finally dialed in bullet feeder, powder feeder, case feeder, and dies to 1 specific caliber I shoot a lot each so I really don't want to spend the money to switch to all pro 6000 (yes a powder check and factory crimp die would probably be nice, but the bore scope I have trained on a pre loaded case does fine if I watch em come around.) for minor upgrades considering mine are highly modified to work really well other than than those issues.
You can adjust the sprocket that the handle goes into to allow it more forward travel so you're not reaching so far on the downstroke. I just ordered one from Inline although I just got the standard height handle instead of the ergonomic one because like you, I sit when I'm at the press.
I have since adjusted the handle as you have said, my chair I have for reloading is shorter now and it works much better for me. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Liked and subscribbed. Are you decapping and resizing the .308? My 6000 is tearing 2 tabs off the brass and leaving the case in the die ALOT. If you are, what are you using for case lube? I am also having 2 other problems. 1. the tube for the Lee inline bullet feeder (got one) die TUBE is too large a diameter for .308. the bullets get just sideways enough that the point on the lower bullet get to the side of the upper bullet and they will jam as they go into the die. The tube needs to be .320 or .330 instead of the tube they use for 9mm (.356). 2. I am having problems with the primer ram pin (small diameter size denting/distorting the primers. Perhaps I am doing something wrong. Any advise is appreciated. I sanded the right edge of the slider to stop the pull back issue. 80% fix.
I do all my prep (resize, wet tumble, trim, and primer pockets) before I reload them. Using single stage Lee for resize and primer pocket swag. I use Hornady one shot for lube. Wet tumble and then use my Frankford Arsenal trimmer case prep before another shot of Hornady one shot lube and run them through my 6000. Resize die in first station. You may want to try tightening the screw on the bottom slider also to help with case pulling. If you don’t use lube on the cases also and run them through resizing die they will get stuck often, and yess it’s a pain in the A$$!! As far as the bullet feeder tubes I’m still waiting to get a bullet feeder so I’m no help right now in that respect. Hope this helps.
@@aubreyfishingandoutdoors5479 It does, alot. Thank you, I am thinking to slice one tube enough to allow me to telescope it into the other, thus giving it a smaller I.D. and letting the bullets stay straight. Or at least point to base.
For the powder check die I use a Lee sizer/decapping die loosen the decapping nut so the pin can move up and down slide a small o ring on decapping pin so it doesn't fall thru die adjust o ring to your powder charge and that's it does the same as the RCBS powder check die
@@reloader523 I had seen the same thing before. I just didn’t have a spare de-capping die and the price point was not too bad so I went with the powder check.
@aubreyfishingandoutdoors5479 they are both good options I had a extra die laying around not related to your video the 2 springs that Lee uses one for primer and one for case slider can be troublesome at times i saw a video to use a Bic Clic Stick pen with guts removed to slide over springs and has worked out perfectly ...just a suggestion that works thanks for the video
I set up my handles so when it's all the way up It's perpendicular with the press. That way you don't have to go down as far to get to the bottom of the stroke.
I will look into that. As it is I just use a shorter chair and it works fine. The shorter chair actually puts me at a position to see better what is going on with the press also. Thanks for watching.
Why did you buy this over the powder lock out die? EDIT: yeah the powder check die is 20 something dollars cheaper but i rather spend the extra 20 plus dollars to save my butt squib loads and catastrophic failure from a double charge or no charge.
@@ericsalidbar1693 I use the powder check die as a reference only. I also use it on my loadmaster. It is mostly for the ease of use and its simplicity of use. I also remember the words from the gentleman that helped me get started, “Keep It Simple Stupid”. It was not a mater of money it was just a mater of personal preference. But for the reloaded on a budget the extra 20 in savings means a few extra rounds at the range. The powder check also works with both bottle neck and straight wall cases .22 and up. The lockout, if I remember correctly, only worked with straight wall cases 9mm and up. But like I said it was a matter of preference for me. Thanks for watching and keep your powder dry and lead going down range.
@@aubreyfishingandoutdoors5479thank you for your response. I've been using my powder lockout die and it's already stopped me twice from loading a no powder load.
I think they are shipping from Lee already. I'm going to order from distributers as it is cheaper than Lee direct. I am going to get a couple though if the first one works well.
Maybe a better statement would be to know who reloaded the ammo before use. Let's be real, factory ammo was loaded by someone you don't know & we trust that. If you have someone known for diligent work practice there should be no reason not to shoot their reloads!
I was only making a suggestion. I personally don’t give out my reloads or reload for someone else for the simple fact that human error can’t be completely eliminated. I would never be able to live with myself if ammo that I reloaded and give to a friend malfunctioned and hurt, or god forbid, killed somebody because of some small thing I missed. Myself personally, wouldn’t take that risk.
Ordered the 6 pack pro the other day. Can’t wait to get it set up.
How'd it go? I got mine set up and running two weeks ago, I've ran about 1200 rounds of 9mm through it so far and love it. I'm getting some .223 dies and shell plate in a few days along with the mini Mr bullet feeder (one for 9mm and one for .223), double alpha powder check and the collator for the case feeder tubes, it's already a fast press but those items will really kick things up a notch. I'd love to eventually get one of those automatic bullet and case feeders for it, but I'll have to wait until my budget and reloading space allows for it, they're a little on the pricey side, like quadruple the cost of the press for both together😢.
riser, i use a 2x6 wood 2 12" and 2 5" worked out great for me.
Look into the Inline Fabs' mounts. They have both an inlaid mount that you can put into your bench and keep it at the same level you have, and they also have those elevated mounts that are just as sturdy. They're made from heavy gauge steel and the eleveated ones will bring the press up to eye level, or a lot closer to eye level and the press arm will be a littl more convenient for you. I first bought the inlaid mount for my Loadmaster, and after using it, I bought mouting plates for all of my presses and tools I use on my loading/Work bench.
Thanks for the information. I will look into this. Thanks again.
I had the same issue with my six pack pro case feeder pulling the case back out. What i found was the mouth of the pusher is rolled in so i trimmed to fit. I also had a feeding issue with the 6.5 creedmoor case not feeding into the shell plate. I noticed the shell plate was a few thousandths higher than the case rail. So i sanded the bottom of the shell plate till it was flush with the case rail.
I enjoyed watching your reloading process, I'm always looking for mods to make my process easier, and that bar looks like it helps a lot. I wonder if you can shorten it a bit and it would shorten the stroke just a tad without messing anything up? Because it looks like your arm is kind of high starting out, and it looks like it ends way down by your knees when sitting it'd probably be a lot more comfortable with a slightly shorter stroke.
As far as your case pusher goes I would suggest maybe putting some 1000 or even 2000 grit sandpaper around a pen, or dowel rod and giving it a light sanding in the part of the pusher that curves around the case holding it from tipping to the sides, to get any potential burrs out. If that didn't work I would be tempted to glue a super thin piece of slick metal flashing or something like that in there to 1 act as a slicker surface and 2 to force it a tiny bit further forward due to it's thickness. Great video! I enjoy watching people like you putting out content helping us in the reloading community!
Thanks for watching. And sorry I haven’t done more content. Had some stuff going on at work but that is getting straightened out now. The handle is not as bad as it seems in the video. I think it has more to do with my seating position and camera angle. As far as the case feeder I figured that out to bee the case pusher was just a bit too loose. I tightened the screw about an 8th of a turn and had no more issues. Again thanks for watching and I hope to get more videos up in the coming months.
@@aubreyfishingandoutdoors5479 Awesome! It's good to know they were just simple stuff that doesn't require a load of effort to fix! I look forward to seeing some new videos come out on any of the reloading stuff. (Maybe once and for all solve the detent ball slapping the case so hard on the pro 1000 it knocks a little powder out? Or an easy way to get the primers to accurately drop on a pro 1000?)
Honestly thinking about it there was definitely a reason for lee to design the 6000 the way they did lol!
I have a couple of the pro 1000 with the finally dialed in bullet feeder, powder feeder, case feeder, and dies to 1 specific caliber I shoot a lot each so I really don't want to spend the money to switch to all pro 6000 (yes a powder check and factory crimp die would probably be nice, but the bore scope I have trained on a pre loaded case does fine if I watch em come around.) for minor upgrades considering mine are highly modified to work really well other than than those issues.
You can adjust the sprocket that the handle goes into to allow it more forward travel so you're not reaching so far on the downstroke. I just ordered one from Inline although I just got the standard height handle instead of the ergonomic one because like you, I sit when I'm at the press.
I have since adjusted the handle as you have said, my chair I have for reloading is shorter now and it works much better for me. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Liked and subscribbed. Are you decapping and resizing the .308? My 6000 is tearing 2 tabs off the brass and leaving the case in the die ALOT. If you are, what are you using for case lube? I am also having 2 other problems. 1. the tube for the Lee inline bullet feeder (got one) die TUBE is too large a diameter for .308. the bullets get just sideways enough that the point on the lower bullet get to the side of the upper bullet and they will jam as they go into the die. The tube needs to be .320 or .330 instead of the tube they use for 9mm (.356). 2. I am having problems with the primer ram pin (small diameter size denting/distorting the primers. Perhaps I am doing something wrong. Any advise is appreciated. I sanded the right edge of the slider to stop the pull back issue. 80% fix.
I do all my prep (resize, wet tumble, trim, and primer pockets) before I reload them. Using single stage Lee for resize and primer pocket swag. I use Hornady one shot for lube. Wet tumble and then use my Frankford Arsenal trimmer case prep before another shot of Hornady one shot lube and run them through my 6000. Resize die in first station. You may want to try tightening the screw on the bottom slider also to help with case pulling. If you don’t use lube on the cases also and run them through resizing die they will get stuck often, and yess it’s a pain in the A$$!! As far as the bullet feeder tubes I’m still waiting to get a bullet feeder so I’m no help right now in that respect. Hope this helps.
@@aubreyfishingandoutdoors5479 It does, alot. Thank you, I am thinking to slice one tube enough to allow me to telescope it into the other, thus giving it a smaller I.D. and letting the bullets stay straight. Or at least point to base.
For the powder check die I use a Lee sizer/decapping die loosen the decapping nut so the pin can move up and down slide a small o ring on decapping pin so it doesn't fall thru die adjust o ring to your powder charge and that's it does the same as the RCBS powder check die
@@reloader523 I had seen the same thing before. I just didn’t have a spare de-capping die and the price point was not too bad so I went with the powder check.
@aubreyfishingandoutdoors5479 they are both good options I had a extra die laying around not related to your video the 2 springs that Lee uses one for primer and one for case slider can be troublesome at times i saw a video to use a Bic Clic Stick pen with guts removed to slide over springs and has worked out perfectly ...just a suggestion that works thanks for the video
My in-line fabrication handle comes tomorrow. So I can put it on my six pack .
I set up my handles so when it's all the way up It's perpendicular with the press. That way you don't have to go down as far to get to the bottom of the stroke.
I have reset mine as well and you are correct it doesn’t go down as far.
You could shorten the handle a bit.
I will look into that. As it is I just use a shorter chair and it works fine. The shorter chair actually puts me at a position to see better what is going on with the press also. Thanks for watching.
Why did you buy this over the powder lock out die? EDIT: yeah the powder check die is 20 something dollars cheaper but i rather spend the extra 20 plus dollars to save my butt squib loads and catastrophic failure from a double charge or no charge.
@@ericsalidbar1693 I use the powder check die as a reference only. I also use it on my loadmaster. It is mostly for the ease of use and its simplicity of use. I also remember the words from the gentleman that helped me get started, “Keep It Simple Stupid”. It was not a mater of money it was just a mater of personal preference. But for the reloaded on a budget the extra 20 in savings means a few extra rounds at the range. The powder check also works with both bottle neck and straight wall cases .22 and up. The lockout, if I remember correctly, only worked with straight wall cases 9mm and up. But like I said it was a matter of preference for me. Thanks for watching and keep your powder dry and lead going down range.
@@aubreyfishingandoutdoors5479thank you for your response. I've been using my powder lockout die and it's already stopped me twice from loading a no powder load.
Lee is coming out with new in-line bullet feed die . with a Gatling magazine.
I think they are shipping from Lee already. I'm going to order from distributers as it is cheaper than Lee direct. I am going to get a couple though if the first one works well.
Maybe a better statement would be to know who reloaded the ammo before use. Let's be real, factory ammo was loaded by someone you don't know & we trust that. If you have someone known for diligent work practice there should be no reason not to shoot their reloads!
I was only making a suggestion. I personally don’t give out my reloads or reload for someone else for the simple fact that human error can’t be completely eliminated. I would never be able to live with myself if ammo that I reloaded and give to a friend malfunctioned and hurt, or god forbid, killed somebody because of some small thing I missed. Myself personally, wouldn’t take that risk.