Pirate! Massive thanks for your initial 75100 vid. Just about the complete my Flipky 75100 on my Wolf Warrior X. Just the lighting left. Took it for a test ride... oh my gosh... insane!. Smooth, no motor noise, crazy stable with smooth acceleration to 50mph. No jerk and the electric regen braking (Used a left sided throttle with ADC2 brake no revers settings on VESC rool) is suprising strong enough that not once did I feel the need to use the brake on a 30 minute ride. A Totally different scooter. Never going back to normal controllers. Will post vid once complete
@@ovidijuscybulicius4560 the alu's are definitely much better, they'll do 50A @ battery 120A phase/motor peak, and more on battery side too all day without heat issues
Thanks for the teardown. I look to change my stock controllers but I might go with the singles with aluminum pcb... Now it's time to change the battery with a stronger one.
Hey, i just order one by your video. And yes, waiting for your next video about install this one or test it on your X30, thx a lot of your "tutorials".
Hi I have a Dualtron ultra 2 72v 35ah 6640w dual motor scooter. Which controller would be best for my scooter. Would like more power and speed if possible. Thank you
@@PirateWasHere Hey bro ... so if I'm getting 2 7500 watt motors.... the controllers need to be 72 volt 100amps each? like Volts*amps.. in this case is 7200watts.... so I need the 72 volt 100amp controllers to pretty much get most of the power out of the motor right? besides being 300watts off?
@@PirateWasHere For both of the 7500 watt motors right? I did your equation .... The Chinese manufacturer are giving me 72 volt 50amp controllers which Is weak for the Dual 7500watt motors... I will need 2 72volt 100amp controllers Right? Totaling 14400 watts 600 watts below motor peak capacity but oh well that's already a lot of power
looking to use this ESC to convert a lawn mower to RC. will this ESC work two motors independently to make left and right motors spin in opposite directions for steering or does it control both motors simultaneously in the same direction only?
Bruh I want to do literally the ame but I want to build all from scratch 60/80cm + use tracks or small quad wheels :) . U can controll VESC as you like by simple ppm / pwm , if U want to use just RC remote without extra controll board, then U have to setup " mix " on remote for two channels ( for both wheels ) , so it will drive more or less like tank . Cheers
I jak jesteś zadowolony z FLIPSKY ?? Ja teraz mam na biurku FSESC 75300 :-). Widzę że masz silnik bez sensora - podepnij chociaż termistor NTC na silnik do portu sensora i będziesz miał odczyt temperatury - dwa kabelki a koszt kilka złotych. Fajnie pojazdówki po centralnej Polsce robisz.
Hi, I'm from Spain. I follow your videos. I have a raptor smartgyro and the controller it has, I hadn't seen it until now and I would like to be able to modify it to give it a little more power, I don't know if you could help me. Thank you and regards
Hi i have a flipsky dual 75100 controller .....i need help wiring it up ....i have. A awd m365 pro but apart from the hall and motor i cant work out the rest please help
@@PirateWasHere well I can say I use the ubox v1 and it’s insane bro. I’ve not had any issues with it. I put it in my electric mountain board. And bro it’s a beast. I bought another one for my next build. It doesn’t over heat it’s really good.
I have 2 of them in my mountain board and thinking about putting them in new scooter 😁 i have the 75/100 singles (UBoxes) just got a maike kk10s pro. It is already a beast but very touchy throttle 😉 curious about heat
Hey quick question I had single drive fs75100 and I used two batteries in parallel (58,8v/18,6ah/964Wh each of them). I ordered now dual drive fs75100 and I'm wondering about its better to use my batteries still in parallel or is it maybe better to use 1 battery per side of this vesc. Z góry dzięki za pomoc 🙃
I went with two of the new ubox 100v/100a single units with fans from spintend, thinking about throwing it into a laotie Ti30 (or similar system) or a T10-DDM
I bought a set of the 75v 100a uboxes when on presale 😉 like $80 a piece 😉 score. Gonna get the 100v100a while on presale too. But anyways. Have had them in my board but just got scooter. Thinking i would like to put them in new scoot 😁 (maike kk10s pro) but i also want the new spiny throttle spintend has along with hub to vesc adaptor harneses and the ADC unit 😉 that has all the other hook ups. Lights n horn n whatnot 😁 i am curious if the 75/100 uboxes can take the heat? I think i will use thermal paste and seperate them when installing in my metal scooter enclosure. 😁 Did you receive the 100/100 yet? 😁
@@redreefbud I wanted the spin-y too, but i'll settle for the throttles I have laying around already for now haha. Damn you definitely scored well with the 75s! I ordered the adapter board and a bunch of spare harnesses, as for the 100s they have delayed shipment at the moment due to having made some changes by the looks of things
Yeah, he claims a copper plate in there for dealing with heat. That should help 😁 and them thermal payste and hooking them spread out in corners. I didnt realize how heavy duty this metal enclosure is until i ripped apart 🤯 huge heatsink with outside air flow as long as you get good connection 😉 this thing i got here is a beast already. Going to collect parts and think about it while i beat on the stock version 🤣 i did get a daly smart bms that im thinking about putting in today 😁 want to check this battery out and make sure it is what they told me anyways 😉 should be 16s6p samsung 50G 😁
Hi, this controller does not come with any cables right? What is the type of plug that I need, looks like some sort of JST but cant find anything specific..
I have never ever had an issue with overheating on any of my flipsky controllers. I size them properly I go and get the one that actually can put out the amperage. I want not make it force the averages above the limits of that little baby 100 controller. Sorry to rant. I’m just so fed up with all these videos on here that are not right.
Rant... before rant show some numbers, I am also fed up about people which just talk, but can barerly understand how it works and cant give any decent info, like KV, amperage , voltage, heat spreading efficiency, connectors , wire awg. Mostly they just talk talk talk....
sur ron lol nah they aint powerful enough lol. By the time u invest abt 3k more in batteries and controller, it wont be worth it, u could literally get an used ducati hypermotard for that much and they are way more powerful and fun.
I tried that one but it seems unstable on FW 5.3 because it can't even get my Motor configured right in FOC and flipskys customer service is absolutely garbage... would definitely stay away from flipsky
@@Eden_M how did you run it, power it up etc XT90-S loopkey or crappy antispark that dumps all power? also these things break easily by vibration i figured, when they arrive first thing you need to do is open them and go over the electrolytic capacitors (add extra solder on all the pads) one broke not long after i bought 2 of em (both 75100 alu pcb but not a dual version in the same scooter) when i opened the broken one there was a loose capacitor, entirely off the board, another one with 1 leg detached, and another one also leg melted traces on the PCB blown to the caps and a ceramic cap blown up i suspect the 1 remaining of the 3 caps couldnt handle the current and melted the leg and then the extreme peak current shorted the ceramic cap and because of that short blew the traces to the capacitor well, i saw a 250A fault current due to smashing full throttle on a badly tuned motor i figured the electrolytics are sometimes badly soldered, i ordered a 3rd one to replace the broken one, opened it up before i done anything, touched a cap and a leg instantly came off of the pad on the board, so i added solder on all of them, in the older functioning one and in the new one then i added 3M strip calk under and above the caps to make sure it wont get vibration damage either way probly could use some foam weatherstrip under and above the capacitors instead, just to make sure they dont break anyway since then it's been 6 months without any issue, seeing 120A peak motor current each every day i do run an antispark connector loopkey aswell though, the "antisparks" you buy on their site just dump a lot of current which is bad for the ESC's also it's important to not plug them in separately with CAN connected, that can break the CAN ic's in my case the broken one actually still works, but has no capacitance so it is really weak and cuts out constantly i can probly add a low esr cap bank to it externally but meh, maybe one day if i decide to fully fix that controller
@@BH4x0r Hi. I want to install 75100 alu to vsett 11X what do you say? I know that i must open and reinforce internals this is no problem. Or maybe i will mod original one with better wires more solder and add copper wire for shunt this will probably ad another 20A or even more.
@@trebor1477 they're awesome, but you should really look at the 75200 alu pcb's, on VESC it usually says motor current instead of battery side current when you see 45A on scooter controllers, thats the battery side current, real peak current is probly 150+A at low speeds i've been riding the 75100 Alu PCB's now for a long time and had no problem with them, but i feel like i miss a bit of torque, could be my motors too though, but yea 120A motor side isn't that big also even if you dont run it that high on the 75200 alu pcbs, you've got less strain on the controller and probably even more longevity, and if you ever want more you can do more but yea, great controllers either way.. cant go wrong with them i don't even use physical brakes, i just use regen cause its that strong already
@@BH4x0r Hi. Thank you for your info about the controller. For now I modded the original 72v 51A controller from vsett 11 super. So now it must be 60A under turbo mode and 50A in normal mode. I added a temperature sensor to monitor how hot it will get. And it is quite heavy almost 2kg with a little more copper and 8AVG wires.
Why don’t you use the proper size controller instead of being cheap buying a super small unit. I am so tired of people complaining about overheating and burning up their controllers. You said you crank to 5000 W! Why that controller isn’t made to do that if you do what it’s made to do if you read the instructions if you educate yourself just a little bit before you make a video you don’t look so stupid!
Do you mean like , my car can do 6000rpm max, why I am not using it like this all the time ? . It's not about size but about spreading the heat from mosfets, newer case can easily help spread 5kw compare to old thin one, which after 8sec is 100c++ ( lots of people reviews on groups). Looking stupid these days, seems to work better than other way. Cheers
Pirate! Massive thanks for your initial 75100 vid.
Just about the complete my Flipky 75100 on my Wolf Warrior X. Just the lighting left.
Took it for a test ride... oh my gosh... insane!.
Smooth, no motor noise, crazy stable with smooth acceleration to 50mph. No jerk and the electric regen braking (Used a left sided throttle with ADC2 brake no revers settings on VESC rool) is suprising strong enough that not once did I feel the need to use the brake on a 30 minute ride. A Totally different scooter.
Never going back to normal controllers.
Will post vid once complete
Awesome 🍕🍻
Are you using 75100 earlier or this new version like in the video?
@@ovidijuscybulicius4560 the alu's are definitely much better, they'll do 50A @ battery 120A phase/motor peak, and more on battery side too all day without heat issues
Love your videos, but you killing us brother. Dying to see how this new controller works! Update pleeeese! lol
Thanks for the teardown.
I look to change my stock controllers but I might go with the singles with aluminum pcb...
Now it's time to change the battery with a stronger one.
Hey, i just order one by your video. And yes, waiting for your next video about install this one or test it on your X30, thx a lot of your "tutorials".
Hey !! Nice project man !!
can you tell me if it is possible to install cruise control on this two controller , and limit the speed ?
Hi Pirate! Do you think the flipsky FT85BD ESC will have the same performance as this one? The specs look the same.. thanks for the videos!!
I guess, hard to say
Hello, do you know , is the dual FSESC 75100 an V6 Vesc or an V4 VESC ?
So they really fix the heating problem?
Did you test this controller after ??
How do you know where each phase wire go ???
Hi
I have a Dualtron ultra 2 72v 35ah 6640w dual motor scooter. Which controller would be best for my scooter. Would like more power and speed if possible. Thank you
Is this controller ok...or the ALUMINium PCB ? Price difference oly 30$ ? Better to go with pcb version?
Do you try it on ti30??
Please try it i wanna see if it performs
Great review, I will wait until you've put it thru its paces before I buy
Nice ! what would u recommend ubox v2 or dual 75100 ?
I never used them but Ubox V2 seems to have HQ mosfets but the price is like x2
@@PirateWasHere Hey bro ... so if I'm getting 2 7500 watt motors.... the controllers need to be 72 volt 100amps each? like Volts*amps.. in this case is 7200watts.... so I need the 72 volt 100amp controllers to pretty much get most of the power out of the motor right? besides being 300watts off?
@@fightsandfinance7570 for legit 7500w u need 14 000w controllers ;)
@@PirateWasHere For both of the 7500 watt motors right? I did your equation .... The Chinese manufacturer are giving me 72 volt 50amp controllers which Is weak for the Dual 7500watt motors... I will need 2 72volt 100amp controllers Right? Totaling 14400 watts 600 watts below motor peak capacity but oh well that's already a lot of power
If motor constant is 7500w , then peak cold be extra least 50 to 100%
looking to use this ESC to convert a lawn mower to RC. will this ESC work two motors independently to make left and right motors spin in opposite directions for steering or does it control both motors simultaneously in the same direction only?
Bruh I want to do literally the ame but I want to build all from scratch 60/80cm + use tracks or small quad wheels :) . U can controll VESC as you like by simple ppm / pwm , if U want to use just RC remote without extra controll board, then U have to setup " mix " on remote for two channels ( for both wheels ) , so it will drive more or less like tank . Cheers
Have you installed it yet?
Really curious on how it runs
I jak jesteś zadowolony z FLIPSKY ?? Ja teraz mam na biurku FSESC 75300 :-).
Widzę że masz silnik bez sensora - podepnij chociaż termistor NTC na silnik do portu sensora i będziesz miał odczyt temperatury - dwa kabelki a koszt kilka złotych. Fajnie pojazdówki po centralnej Polsce robisz.
Hi, I'm from Spain. I follow your videos. I have a raptor smartgyro and the controller it has, I hadn't seen it until now and I would like to be able to modify it to give it a little more power, I don't know if you could help me. Thank you and regards
Hi i have a flipsky dual 75100 controller .....i need help wiring it up ....i have. A awd m365 pro but apart from the hall and motor i cant work out the rest please help
How do I set up different profiles on the vesc computer software
Have you tried the spinted ubox bro.
75v 200amps.?
It look very similar to that.
It seems to be way better, but I did not test it yet
@@PirateWasHere well I can say I use the ubox v1 and it’s insane bro. I’ve not had any issues with it. I put it in my electric mountain board. And bro it’s a beast. I bought another one for my next build. It doesn’t over heat it’s really good.
I will try it then 🍻
I have 2 of them in my mountain board and thinking about putting them in new scooter 😁 i have the 75/100 singles (UBoxes) just got a maike kk10s pro. It is already a beast but very touchy throttle 😉 curious about heat
@@PirateWasHere it has a 12volt output so you can put fan on top of it.
Hey quick question I had single drive fs75100 and I used two batteries in parallel (58,8v/18,6ah/964Wh each of them). I ordered now dual drive fs75100 and I'm wondering about its better to use my batteries still in parallel or is it maybe better to use 1 battery per side of this vesc. Z góry dzięki za pomoc 🙃
I’m still waiting for these to be installed in ur scooter
I went with two of the new ubox 100v/100a single units with fans from spintend, thinking about throwing it into a laotie Ti30 (or similar system) or a T10-DDM
I bought a set of the 75v 100a uboxes when on presale 😉 like $80 a piece 😉 score. Gonna get the 100v100a while on presale too. But anyways. Have had them in my board but just got scooter. Thinking i would like to put them in new scoot 😁 (maike kk10s pro) but i also want the new spiny throttle spintend has along with hub to vesc adaptor harneses and the ADC unit 😉 that has all the other hook ups. Lights n horn n whatnot 😁 i am curious if the 75/100 uboxes can take the heat? I think i will use thermal paste and seperate them when installing in my metal scooter enclosure. 😁 Did you receive the 100/100 yet? 😁
@@redreefbud I wanted the spin-y too, but i'll settle for the throttles I have laying around already for now haha.
Damn you definitely scored well with the 75s!
I ordered the adapter board and a bunch of spare harnesses, as for the 100s they have delayed shipment at the moment due to having made some changes by the looks of things
Yeah, he claims a copper plate in there for dealing with heat. That should help 😁 and them thermal payste and hooking them spread out in corners. I didnt realize how heavy duty this metal enclosure is until i ripped apart 🤯 huge heatsink with outside air flow as long as you get good connection 😉 this thing i got here is a beast already. Going to collect parts and think about it while i beat on the stock version 🤣 i did get a daly smart bms that im thinking about putting in today 😁 want to check this battery out and make sure it is what they told me anyways 😉 should be 16s6p samsung 50G 😁
I want to buy a scooter but I don't know which one. I have 1500 euros. which one would you recommend? Thanks
Ti30
@@PirateWasHere Thank you, I will continue watching your video reviewing it
Hi, this controller does not come with any cables right?
What is the type of plug that I need, looks like some sort of JST but cant find anything specific..
jst GH 1.25
@@server1789 massive thanks man :)
@@flosa1995 hey, i get mine today. There in package are already all connectors. I order flipsky 75100 v2 from official store👌
most advanced high temp...
I have never ever had an issue with overheating on any of my flipsky controllers. I size them properly I go and get the one that actually can put out the amperage. I want not make it force the averages above the limits of that little baby 100 controller. Sorry to rant. I’m just so fed up with all these videos on here that are not right.
Rant... before rant show some numbers, I am also fed up about people which just talk, but can barerly understand how it works and cant give any decent info, like KV, amperage , voltage, heat spreading efficiency, connectors , wire awg.
Mostly they just talk talk talk....
Are you ok bro? You seem sad. You normally have that amazing positive energy, but in this video it seems like you are sad :(
yes, it's just me when I am Calm :)
just buy a sun ron , cheaper in the long run then fuking around with theese small wheel scooters
Nah man Ktm EXC 250 is way to go, but still 4x4 is most comfy ;)
sur ron lol nah they aint powerful enough lol. By the time u invest abt 3k more in batteries and controller, it wont be worth it, u could literally get an used ducati hypermotard for that much and they are way more powerful and fun.
I tried that one but it seems unstable on FW 5.3 because it can't even get my Motor configured right in FOC and flipskys customer service is absolutely garbage... would definitely stay away from flipsky
Two of these escs died on me the same day, I got 100$ refund (one esc), won't buy flipsky ever again.
@@Eden_M how did you run it, power it up etc
XT90-S loopkey or crappy antispark that dumps all power?
also these things break easily by vibration i figured, when they arrive first thing you need to do is open them and go over the electrolytic capacitors (add extra solder on all the pads)
one broke not long after i bought 2 of em (both 75100 alu pcb but not a dual version in the same scooter)
when i opened the broken one there was a loose capacitor, entirely off the board, another one with 1 leg detached, and another one also leg melted
traces on the PCB blown to the caps and a ceramic cap blown up
i suspect the 1 remaining of the 3 caps couldnt handle the current and melted the leg and then the extreme peak current shorted the ceramic cap and because of that short blew the traces to the capacitor
well, i saw a 250A fault current due to smashing full throttle on a badly tuned motor
i figured the electrolytics are sometimes badly soldered, i ordered a 3rd one to replace the broken one, opened it up before i done anything, touched a cap and a leg instantly came off of the pad on the board, so i added solder on all of them, in the older functioning one and in the new one
then i added 3M strip calk under and above the caps to make sure it wont get vibration damage either way
probly could use some foam weatherstrip under and above the capacitors instead, just to make sure they dont break anyway
since then it's been 6 months without any issue, seeing 120A peak motor current each every day
i do run an antispark connector loopkey aswell though, the "antisparks" you buy on their site just dump a lot of current which is bad for the ESC's
also it's important to not plug them in separately with CAN connected, that can break the CAN ic's
in my case the broken one actually still works, but has no capacitance so it is really weak and cuts out constantly
i can probly add a low esr cap bank to it externally but meh, maybe one day if i decide to fully fix that controller
@@BH4x0r Hi. I want to install 75100 alu to vsett 11X what do you say? I know that i must open and reinforce internals this is no problem. Or maybe i will mod original one with better wires more solder and add copper wire for shunt this will probably ad another 20A or even more.
@@trebor1477 they're awesome, but you should really look at the 75200 alu pcb's, on VESC it usually says motor current instead of battery side current
when you see 45A on scooter controllers, thats the battery side current, real peak current is probly 150+A at low speeds
i've been riding the 75100 Alu PCB's now for a long time and had no problem with them, but i feel like i miss a bit of torque, could be my motors too though, but yea 120A motor side isn't that big
also even if you dont run it that high on the 75200 alu pcbs, you've got less strain on the controller and probably even more longevity, and if you ever want more you can do more
but yea, great controllers either way.. cant go wrong with them
i don't even use physical brakes, i just use regen cause its that strong already
@@BH4x0r Hi. Thank you for your info about the controller. For now I modded the original 72v 51A controller from vsett 11 super. So now it must be 60A under turbo mode and 50A in normal mode. I added a temperature sensor to monitor how hot it will get. And it is quite heavy almost 2kg with a little more copper and 8AVG wires.
1st
Why don’t you use the proper size controller instead of being cheap buying a super small unit. I am so tired of people complaining about overheating and burning up their controllers. You said you crank to 5000 W! Why that controller isn’t made to do that if you do what it’s made to do if you read the instructions if you educate yourself just a little bit before you make a video you don’t look so stupid!
Do you mean like , my car can do 6000rpm max, why I am not using it like this all the time ? .
It's not about size but about spreading the heat from mosfets, newer case can easily help spread 5kw compare to old thin one, which after 8sec is 100c++ ( lots of people reviews on groups).
Looking stupid these days, seems to work better than other way.
Cheers