Working on a Silver 1987 Porsche 944 -Part One
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- In this video we'll be replacing the belts and water pump on this Silver 1987 Porsche 944. Along the way we found all sorts of leaks and surprises, but this car should run like a champ when finished!
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Keywords: Porsche, 924, 924S, 944, 944 turbo, 944T, 944, rebuild, repair, seals, engine, belts, rollers, water pump, waterpump, replacement, oil cooler, maintenance, diy, do it yourself, how to,
I'm so thankful that you take the extra time to record and edit these videos as you work on the car!
I love all your videos. Every little issue I've had with my 944 you've had a simple solution for! Keep it up!
You always stay so calm never get upset and use bad language, I really enjoy watching your videos, thank you.
I don't own one but now I want one. Great videos thank you.
Perfect job, no corners cut. As always, pleasure to watch you work.
excellent once again,…. i must start watching your live streams soon !
Its awesome to have you back been awhile lol. Cant wait for more videos.
I really appreciate these videos. My 944 needs everything you covered in this video. So every peice of info helps, Thank you.
i disassembled the center console and cleaned everything. Noticed that i have an extra cannon plug for a switch. harness is labeled 1, 3 & 4 are in use with, sunroof, mirrors and door locks in that respective order left to right. the car came with a blaupunk equalizer and the oem harness is complete (untouched) for the oem radio and oem equalizer. i thought it would be for the rear wiper, however the rear glass does not have the hole for the wiper and i could not find any extra harness connections at the rear glass. then i thought it was for the fader, but looking on ebay, the cannon plug for the fader is flat, the empty cannon plug is black with the four plastic locks (3x2 pins). What is #2 cannon plug used for? its a 1989 base 944 btw. thank you for all the great content.
I can't think of what that could be. Are you in the facebook group? Maybe if you posted a picture there someone will be able to identify it. Thanks!
not sure where you're located, but do you do sales or just service? love the fact that you just tackle any issue without complaint
We are located just outside Charlotte, NC. We sometimes sell cars but it’s rare since we spend most of our time fixing them for people rather than repairing them for resale. Thanks!
I just did the head on my sons car and it had a broken valve spring as well. Thank you for another great video!
Imagine how you'd have to "drive" to make the stick as loose as that ! Of course you couldn't say that about one of your customers, but I can ;)
I think he just picked it up, so it probably wasn't him... that said, these shifters are known for wearing out. I have to replace them in every car at some point.
@@edredas Yes but loose is one thing, this one is completely gone. Besides, for some reason they don't wear out like that in Europe...
That one is the same as mine but rougher condition
As I've said before, if I lived anywhere near you, I wouldn't mind getting a 944 knowing it can be kept running.
Who do you recommend for parts suppliers? Also this is the best 944 channel on RUclips. You really need your own shop.
I use pelicanparts.com for 90% of all my parts. Mainly because they have everything. Not to mention you can copy and paste the part number from the parts catalog in their search which saves me a ton of time. There are some other sites like AutoHaus and 944Store, but they don't carry everything. This is fine on small orders but if I'm putting together a huge order then I want it from one place to save on shipping. So I just go with Pelican (not affiliated in anyway). That said, I'm working on getting some employees at the moment. I got to get cars finished to make money so I can get a bigger shop, but hopefully that will happen soon! Thanks!
@@edredas Thank you sir. Pelican should sponsor you. When I finally get that winning lottery ticket I'll move down there and open a shop with you. 😁
@@paolodeep8459 Sounds great! Come on down! Maybe once I get to 5k subscribers I'll show them how much I spend with them and ask them if they would like to be a sponsor. Thanks!
Currently looking for one to add to the fleet.
Thank you for taking the time to make all these videos, I really enjoy them and I've learned a lot so far.
I've got a used engine that I would like to rebuild, but it has some scratches on the cylinder walls. They're big enough to get you nails caught in, but only barely. Is it worth it to rebuild this engine (new rings, seals, gaskets and bearings), or am I just throwing good money after bad money here? I guess it could use a slight honing, but that's not very trivial with these blocks. I haven't checked the dimensions of the bore, so I don't know whether its in spec or not.
I would probably go with another block. I wouldn’t want to spend all that time building an engine with any type of scoring. Usually you can find them cheap. Maybe $200 or less shipped to your door in most cases. Afterwards just be sure to use a high quality paper air filter. Lots of cars I’ve seen with a K&N have had scored cylinders and very dirty inside the air box. They’re fine if you clean them often but no one does so don’t take the risk.
Yay! A new video from Edredas! I just changed my oil with 10w-40 and notice i am only getting '4' on the gauge. Is that okay? (1986 944 NA) I live in the mid east coast area. So winter isn't usually too cold.
That should be good although I would prefer to see at least 4.5 bar on a cold start with that oil. Could be an old sender or time to check the spring or seal I the oprv depending on which one you have.
Is there any documentation you referred to when replacing the diaphragm for the heater control? I need to get it done in mine!
Do you have an early or late car? I didn't refer to anything but if you need any tips removing it, I'll try to help. That said, if you have a late car and the heat is stuck on there is clip under the dash you should check first. I hope that helps!
EDREDAS, do you have a video that dissects the popup headlights on the 944?
Not at the moment. What would you like to know?
The lights stop half when opening, Ive ordered a relay and waiting for that to arrive. 1983 944.
Now that I got you here, I always wondered about the 83 series (or 82 in EU) have you ever noticed any real difference between the forged rods in these and the subsequent cast ones ? Or other differences (reductions) in build quality, when they started to look at maximizing profit in mass production. When I changed belts on an 83 I noticed the rollers were all metal, and the replacements all plastic. Annoyed the crap out of me, next time, I'll get new bearings for the metal ones, and put them back in. Can you make a video about how everything was better in the olden days ??!
In all I've read, and as cynical as I am in my approach to working on these, I've never heard of a single issue anyone ever had with plastic rollers. Or even cast vs. forged rods. I would assume the cast rods are wider to offer at least similar strength. The later blocks have slightly thinner cylinders, but more accurately placed bores, so that's probably a wash there compared to the early ones.
@@tempest411 hi there thanx for the input. To begin with, imagine a german placed bore that's possible to get more accurate! Got to love that precision. I'd think the reason there's not many issues w. the plastic rollers is because we change them everytime. On the first models you'd only throw away the bearing, and keep the old wheels. If they were plastic this wouldn't work in the long run. At least I wouldn't bet my head on it. There's a reason why they now recommend throwing them away with the old belts, even though they usually last longer than they say.
Hey edredas, regarding the breather hose that connects the timing belt housing to the air cleaner box - I found an old TSB from July 9, 1989 that said these were determined to be a rare cause of premature belt failure. Porsche replaced that hose part: 94410514901 with two rubber cap parts: 94410610303. In your experience, have you noticed this issue? Is it worthwhile doing the replacement? I feel like I see more cars with the hose than the caps...
I have heard all sorts of reasons as to why it was removed. Everything from it causing the engine to suck up water when going through a deep puddle to dirt/debris being sucked in from the air intake snorkel and then falling onto the belts. How much, if any of that is true is unknown. That said, I usually cap them off when I can, since I try to follow the factory service manual and all its bulletins, but I will also say I have the hose on my daily driver and its never made any difference. I also try to avoid large puddles and not sucking up too much debris, but that's completely unrelated to the hose! I hope that helps!
@@edredas Thank you for the reply, it is in fact both useful and humorous! That's kind of what I was expecting... as long as you don't do anything outlandish, probably not a big deal. Thanks again man! :)
Do you have any videos on porche transmission repairs?
Not at the moment. We either replace them or send them to a transmission specialist.
On your 924S, does the wire harness for the IAC, temp senders, etc., get routed above the heater elbow at the back of the head, or under it somehow? In reassembling mine it doesn't look like either way looks like it should've been. I should've taken a picture of it, but I did not. The area at the firewall is really a hot mess of heater hoses and wiring!
The harness goes over top of the metal elbow. If you have the oil filler neck off then it might be hard to tell, but with it on there won't be enough room to go underneath... or at least it will be very tight. I hope that helps!
@@edredas Thank you very much for your reply! I have it that way, though it just doesn't seem like a good fit. You can really see the differences between these cars and anything else from a high-volume manufacturer. The engine bay of any Chevy/Ford/Chrysler/whatever of the same year is more neatly fitted as far as how the wiring harnesses and hoses were run.
No problem! There should be a bracket on the Air/Oil separator that the wiring harness clips to, along with a few other brackets and clips to make everything look nicer. Its not much, but should help clean things up a little. Once the intake is on you should only just see the small wire running to the oil pressure sender peeking from behind the belt cover, and some plugs here and there...
How can I get in contact with you about working on my 928? I'm in The Charlotte area as well. Thanks
Sad to be selling my '88 944
Just curious I have an 86 turbo, how much would you charge me to do the belts hoses waterpump oil cooler and head gasket. Oh also the separator seal and shifter bushings. The car has been sitting because the belt is past due and I'm to scared to even run it. I drove it where it is though and it ran good then. You could also use the car for more content:)
Hi, we have a package that includes all front seals/collars , oil console seals on a turbo, new water pump, and all new belts for $2800. Unfortunately to do the separator seals on a turbo you have to pull the turbo which is a pretty big task. We recommend at that point servicing the turbo as well so it wouldn’t be a cheap job. Thanks!
Quick question, not sure if there is a video you have that covers this, but we are trying to remove out A-pillars and there is a screw in the top of it that we can’t see or find the head to. How do you get these off?
Just did an oil change (0-20w) in my 1987 Porsche 944NA. Oil pressure upon start up is between four and five. After running the car for several minutes the oil pressure drops to two or three at idle. Upon acceleration it goes back up to four and five. Not sure what could be causing that. Any thoughts? Thanks absolutely love your channel.
It is completely normal for the oil pressure to drop once the oil is up to temp. The only thing to really look for is that when you start it that the oil pressure is between 4 and 5 bar. So it sounds like you have great oil pressure. On a really hot day when running the car really hard it is not unheard of to see some turbos hit 1 bar at idle, but be a 3 bar when driving, which is fine. According to he owners manual anything above 0.5 bar in those situations is fine and is not an indicator of any issue. So long as the oil pressure returns to 4-5 bar on the next cold startup. That said, modern 0W-20 oils may not have enough zinc content to protect the flat tappet lifters. So it is recommended to use a 15W-40 or 20W-50 oil which will have more zinc for protection in these older engines. I hope that helps!
Thank you so much for the quick response. Definitely gonna change the oil. I’m trying my best to take care of the car. It’s a father-son project. My son is a Pennsylvania state trooper and also in the Pennsylvania National Guard. He’s recently been deployed to the Middle East so I am taking over the maintenance duty of the Porsche 944. Your channel is a godsend. Please let me know how I can support the channel. thanks again.
Awesome! Good luck your project and I hope he stays safe over there! Here's a link to my patreon if you would like to support the channel. Thanks so much! www.patreon.com/edredas
Just got a 85.5 944 and it starts and runs well but my oil pressure gauge does bounce around a lot. It’s that normal on the 944 or what are you thoughts? I do have a little drip at the oil cooler. Thinking I need to replace those gaskets. Thank you for your time.
Typically when that occurs its due to a bad oil pressure sender. If you have access to a mechanical gauge then you might try to check with that before spending money to replace something that may not be the issue, but in many cases I've come across it was often just an old sender. I hope that helps!
@@edredas thank you soo much. I’m a new owner and just been going through all you videos for help and making sure it will run well for years to come.
beautiful!! :-) i have one question.. i resealed the balance shaft covers. the round cap with the orange o ring has a little bit of play in it now. I can move it a little with my finger. is it safe or should i reseal it again ? i dont have the timing belt back on since i wait for the sleeves for the balance shaft and crankshaft :-)
I have only seen loose fitting rear caps once but I've heard it is common. Just for peace of mind you might want to seal it up with something to make it fit tighter. I hope that helps!
what do you think about the earlier 924s with the 2.0? haven't really seen any of them on your channel. I think the 924 turbos are awesome, although I still prefer the 924S.
I don't get many calls to work on the 2.0L cars, but when I do I usually give them the name of a tech that specializes in K-jetronic. I know just enough about their mechanical fuel injection that I don't want to work on it. Too many parts which can get expensive quick without the right training and tools. We won't entirely avoid them but its a completely different animal than motronic. I also prefer the S, its quiet, doesn't rattle or buzz like the 2.0L cars and has plenty of power. Will a 931 beat it, yes, but will the 931 drive for 5 years without popping the hood? Nope.
@@edredas interesting perspective. I have an 87 924S(was my first car, incidentally) and I was contemplating trading it for a super clean Turbo I saw on facebook, but eventually decided against it. BTW, I go to school in Charlotte, and will probably be taking my 924S this year as well. I understand you're located nearby, and I do need my wiper motor replaced. May I ask what the name of your shop is?
Oh nice, yeah I'm in uptown while the shop is out of town. Maybe we could meet up sometime? There are a lot of other 944 owners in the area that I know very well so we often go for a drive. That said, we are edredas LLC, but the shop doesn't really have a name since all clients contact us privately online. So we don't have a sign up or a known location to help prevent cars from just showing up without an appointment or passerby's asking for us to work on a random cars... which happens anyway. I might have a wiper motor, if not I can get you one. Thanks!
@@edredas well I joined the facebook group, so I'll probably just shoot you a message when I'm in the area. Great work on the vids btw. Cheers!
Where do you get all your replacement parts and gaskets sent in from?
I order 95% of all my parts from pelicanparts.com. No affiliation. Thanks!
edredas thanks! Looking to restore my 1983 and probably will need to parts 😅
By chance did you ever make a video covering the auto belt tensioner?
Not yet, all the engines that I have on stands at the moment are early ones with the eccentric tensioner. As soon as I get a late engine with an auto-tensioner on the stand I'll make a video on the process. I think it will be easier to see what I'm doing with one on the stand, sorta like I did in the first installation video. That said, if you need some pointers in the meantime, I show some tips on installing one in the 'working on a 924S' series of videos.
@@edredas I recall you and others have said that with the correct belt tension you should be able to turn the water pump pulley by hand. On my '87 924S with auto tensioner I was able to, barely, after initial installation, but then I checked it again today and found I can not rotate it. The engine has not been run. I still have lots of work to do!
I must say the auto tensioner leaves a lot to be desired. It's very bulky and heavy for what it does, and the pivot pin for the spring on the swing arm is undersized for the force on it. Mine broke on disassembly. I had to make up a new one with some material ordered from McMaster-Carr.
@@tempest411 I run into this issue quite a bit. Sometimes just temperature fluctuations throughout the day can cause a properly tensioned belt to seem too tight as it warms up. So as long as it is set at room temperature it should be okay. However, it won't hurt to back it off a tiny bit and lock it down if you feel uncomfortable with it. Those auto-tensioners are off 90% of the time and its better to be too loose than too tight. I've seen guys drive years with belts slapping the cover without any issue, but a tight belt can seize a pump in a matter of hours. That said, I also don't care much for the auto-tensioner. It takes what would normally be a few hours of work replacing the water pump and such and adds another 30 minutes of messing with that thing... I'm always dropping nuts to get to that lower stud. Anway, I hope that helps!
Do you think it's possible to switch a 944 to 4x108?
I think the only way to do it would be to use the 924 hubs and spindles. Then you'd end up with tiny front brakes and drum rears. Seems like a giant step backwards. I hope that helps!
Could you please provide where you get all the parts I nees a reliable source for my first project 944 please help me out
I buy most of my parts from pelicanparts.com. They usually have everything I need and it makes it easier on shipping to get it all in one place. However, there also some other great places to get harder to find parts such as 944store.com, autohauzaz.com, and paragonproducts.com. Good luck with your project!
Hi would you be able to tell me if its possible to get swop the maf from a 1987 944S 16 valve to a simpler one like a slk230 hot wire maf?
Unfortunately it isn't possible without some modifications. The readings from the 944S AFM and a hotwire MAF are incompatible. There are some companies that make a kits that allows you to convert to a MAF, but they either require an aftermarket chip, an entirely different computer, or a piggyback device. If you're interested, look into M-tune, which is a plug and play device that uses a MAF. That said, I'm not sure if there is one specifically for the 944S or you would have to upgrade to Microsquirt or something similar to eliminated it, but then you'd have to tune, which is not fun for most people. Anyway, I hope that helps!
@@edredas OK thanks for the reply..
Where did you get the injectors serviced?
I send them to injector Rx in Houston, TX.
What is an ISD?
I believe you are referring to the ISV? It's the abbreviation for the Idle Stabilizer Valve.