@@BasinMotorsports oh for sure im looking around for a black piece of wrap to do my hood on my fox...something different plus itll give me some practice just doing the hood for now...
Do you have a local vinyl / sign shop that you could by from? If not, look at MetroRestyling or Fellers to find the vinyl you want. Then you can grab the part number and use Google to find the lowest price for it. There are a few places I usually look. MetroRestyling, Fellers, BuyWrap, etc. Some have clearances and discounted materials all the time.
@@BasinMotorsports hmm great idea im going to look into that...a clearance piece would be perfect...for now im just watching your videos for pointers and tips before i jump in
That turned out really good is that ur first time wrapping car ? How much wrap do you have to buy say if you would want to do ur mirrors maybe some little stuff inside the car I seen where guy's take some paper or something that had wholes in & use some type of metallic paint in spray to make look like carbon fiber I have a white 3inch cowl hood I would like to get it wrapped in carbon fiber! I can't wait to see it finished what are you going to do with the rear quarter panels are you going to fill the lip before u wrap it or do you have fender flares for the rear quarters? Hope you don't mind the question!
This is the first time wrapping a whole car. I wrapped my window trim last year in carbon fiber, then did the two main dash pieces a month ago with the same carbon fiber wrap. Typically the material width is 60" (5 feet), so you can just lay out all the pieces and figure out the length of the piece you need. I have videos for each section on the channel, and it shows how to lay it all out. When I did the window trim I bought a 6 foot piece because of the door trim length. There are kits to simulate carbon fiber with paint, which is much easier than paper. If you want to wrap the hood, just figure out the width of the piece you need on the hood and wrap it. It would be about the same as the hood on mine with a little more curvature in the cowl section to wrap. The rear quarters have bolt-on flares, but they were taken off in the video. The quarters will be wrapped in the same material and the flares will also be wrapped to match.
Ok that's what I figured u had some flares for the rear it's going to look good when finished doing a great job for ur first car! How much does the wrap cost do they charge by the foot or how do they charge u for it ? Thank u great job!
You pay by the foot. It varies on the cost for the material. The color flow is a little more expensive than a simple color. I bought a complete roll (75 feet long) so I'd have enough. I knew I would make some mistakes along the way. The whole roll is $750.
Awesome video! I have a question I have a fiberglass kit I want to wrap it’s from duraflex and I was very hesitant on purchasing it for my car because of all the reviews but I have to say it fits like a glove! Very happy with it.. now I just need to wrap it but I don’t how I should prep it.. any advise? It has a black coat on it don’t know if it’s jell or not but Can I just wrap over it or should I spray primer with a rattle can and than wet sand it? Or just sand it with no primer? And what grit?
It will need to be sanded whether you paint or not since wrap needs a very smooth surface to adhere well. I would start by wet sanding the piece with 400, 800, 1,200, and 1,500 grit paper. Then clean some of it with alcohol. Once it is dry, try a 12" x 12" piece of wrap on the surface to see how well it adheres. I painted the widebody, and eventually got it to stick. The gray Mustang that I just finished was mostly left in primer with good adherence. I would guess the gel coat will stick with good sanding and cleaning. I'd try it first before moving to paint since it is more labor overall. Let me know how it goes. Wrapping is a lot of fun. Stay patient with it.
@@BasinMotorsports thanks buddy! This was very helpful and I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions.. I’m going to do exactly what you said to start and after those steps if I need to put some primer or paint I will do so and yeah I’m going to take my time no rush long as I can get it done I will be happy plus I’m not looking for perfection just would like it to look nice.. body shops are expensive they quoted me $1200 just to paint it no install or anything and that’s just front bumper, rear and side skirts.. do you think $1200 is too much for getting it painted? I personally think it’s expensive and that’s them not doing any work on it just sanding it and painting it.. I have a small crack well not a crack more like a whole I guess from shipping the size of a dime that I need fixed.. do you recommend any filler I can use to fix it?
@@Molino-Red That price is probably about right. They probably charge $75-$100 per hour in labor, which won't take long to add up. I use a two-part epoxy to fix urethane bumpers. I have links out to Amazon in the video descriptions for everything I have used. There is also a flexible filler that works well too once the hole is patched up. You will want primer on the filler as wrap doesn't like the filler very well.
My first thought would be to do it in two pieces. Wrap the deep recess in one piece with the seam at the top of part to hide the overlap. Then wrap the outer part as you normally would and make it slightly overlap the recess. A solid color would be pretty easy to hide, but a pattern is going to be difficult if you want it to appear like it flows together. It will just take a little extra work to line up the pattern.
Did you remove your question about solution and a heat gun? Hopefully the video answers where I used ProBond solution and the heat gun. If I can help with anything, just let me know. Thanks for watching! 👍
Hello! Is that an after market fiberglass fender? How did you prep it for wrapping? I'm asking cause I just bought an aftermarket fiberglass bumper and thinking about wrapping it instead of getting it painted.
Yes, they are aftermarket fiberglass. They came with a black gel coat, and just need to be sanded to 1,500 grit level surface finish. They are rough on the backside, so I used Pro-Bond to adhere there.
@@znyx10 On the rears I did 400, 800, 1200, then 1,500. The front were modified a lot on certain parts of the fenders. On the sections that weren't touched, I did the same as the rears.
Really like the progress and the color. The projects really taking a nice turn. I will make one point about the hood. If you like it, there's nothing else to say. But if your looking for 'attention' to gain notice at a show or event, I'm not sure it speaks well beyond attracting gaze. I think there are probably better ways to accomplish that and reinforce a sense of quality and attention to detail that many builders work hard to project and build. Maybe display the hood to do that previously mentioned work and show options and benefits inherent to wrap over paint, and then another color match or appropriately contrasting hood on the car. My point in making the comment is the car's coming along nicely and it would be a shame to gain some 'curious' interest at the loss of 'serious' interest in the process. The hood, for me, is garish, especially against the muted but interesting body color. That body color's doing a lot of interesting lift in shifting and being noticeable in its own right. As a designer the question is does the hood serve, enhance that? IMO It undermines it. But if you love it, that's all that matters especially because its your car and do what makes you happy. Love it because its what you like. That's what great about this hobby, individuation.
I do like the hood, but I also understand your point. I used the graphic for something different initially and it was also practice wrapping to get a little more experience. Garish is a good word, and I could also add "cartoonish". Someone said it looks like a scene from Grand Theft Auto (a video game), and that may bring some attention from the younger crowd. How many of them would pay me to wrap a car? I don't know. I have a second OEM steel hood that I want to make into a 2" steel cowl hood. If I move to a 351 Windsor engine, I will need the extra room too. It would be a great time to make the hood, wrap it differently, and continue to evolve the car. I plan to finish the car in the next week or so, get it all back together for a show on the 21st, and then put it away for the winter. I will then start on the '86 hatchback. I'm not sure what the hood will evolve to, but it probably won't stay with the graphic as the final look. I haven't decided if I switch to the same color change material, or maybe that and add a WideFox inlay. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate the feedback.
Awesome build! Any tips for wrapping fiberglass? Did you need to primer fiberglass fender prior or did you just clean/prep the fender as is and begin wrapping?
I put a layer of primer on to fill in any pinholes in the fiberglass surface, then a layer of paint to seal the primer. Fiberglass and primer are still porous, so it's recommended to seal it somehow (paint or clear coat) to give the vinyl a non-porous surface to adhere to.
I dont have any evidence but have herd rumors on the net only. So i wonted to ask a pro do fender flare work rust over time? And do fiberglass kits shrink overtime and look bad? I have a black edition kit for my clk its been my life dream to put on. So i was wondering on the long term life expectancy decay process. Thank you so so much ?
I haven't had any issues with shrinkage on my fiberglass parts, and nothing is showing signs of rust since I did the work. As long as everything is protected from water intrusion, you shouldn't expect anything to rust.
@@BasinMotorsports Did you do a process to keep water out or is their a process. I just dont know anythang about it. My kit is going to be vynal wrapped after the fender flares are put on. Also do you have any advise for me to tell the installer or i should know. I know its a small dream but i have always wonted one of these.Thank you so much?
@@jakeamigliore606 The front fenders are just replacements, so there is no water issue there. For the rears, you have to cut the inner fender. It needs to be sealed for water intrusion. Your installer can use body seam sealer on the cuts to prevent water getting in. I used butyl based sound deadener sheets to cover the cuts because I had extra in the garage. I also make new plastic wheel well liners to keep more debris from building up in the widebody fenders. Sticky tires throw a lot of rocks and dirt. All of my work is on the channel, but some,of thise details are inside in videos (not their own video).
@@BasinMotorsports Thank you so so much this was the only thang that was holding me back from getting it installed. I couldn't find anything on the net. You are so kind for reaching out to me and educating me. You are so kind for reaching out to me and educating me and your fans. :)
The front bumper is urethane, so I think you mean the front fenders which are fiberglass (the rears are also). The adhesion promoter I show in the video is how the vinyl is able to stick to a poor surface. You allow it to sit for about 30 seconds and it becomes very sticky for the vinyl to stick to.
@@BasinMotorsports thanks for the Pro-bond tip. I was looking for a solution and you had it. Question: you say to let the Pro-bond get sticky for 30 seconds. Do you have to rush to finish the wrap or that's just a minimum time and it stays sticky for many minutes like an hour?
@@tidlof The minimum 30 seconds allows the solvents to evaporative off and leave a tacky surface. It does have a time limit of about 10 minutes before it starts to lose the ability to stick to the wrap. You don't have to panic rush to get the wrap on, but don't leave it too long.
@@BasinMotorsports no...the one that runs down the car, just below the mirrors....the trim one is really bad too but at least you might be able to hide it a little with moldings
Hey shes coming along nicely! Definitely time consuming but so worth it in the end...cant wait to see her all done...cheers!!
Definitely coming along. Wait until the rear flares are done and you really get a good look at the whole car.
@@BasinMotorsports oh for sure im looking around for a black piece of wrap to do my hood on my fox...something different plus itll give me some practice just doing the hood for now...
Do you have a local vinyl / sign shop that you could by from? If not, look at MetroRestyling or Fellers to find the vinyl you want. Then you can grab the part number and use Google to find the lowest price for it. There are a few places I usually look. MetroRestyling, Fellers, BuyWrap, etc. Some have clearances and discounted materials all the time.
@@BasinMotorsports hmm great idea im going to look into that...a clearance piece would be perfect...for now im just watching your videos for pointers and tips before i jump in
That turned out really good is that ur first time wrapping car ? How much wrap do you have to buy say if you would want to do ur mirrors maybe some little stuff inside the car I seen where guy's take some paper or something that had wholes in & use some type of metallic paint in spray to make look like carbon fiber I have a white 3inch cowl hood I would like to get it wrapped in carbon fiber! I can't wait to see it finished what are you going to do with the rear quarter panels are you going to fill the lip before u wrap it or do you have fender flares for the rear quarters? Hope you don't mind the question!
This is the first time wrapping a whole car. I wrapped my window trim last year in carbon fiber, then did the two main dash pieces a month ago with the same carbon fiber wrap. Typically the material width is 60" (5 feet), so you can just lay out all the pieces and figure out the length of the piece you need. I have videos for each section on the channel, and it shows how to lay it all out. When I did the window trim I bought a 6 foot piece because of the door trim length. There are kits to simulate carbon fiber with paint, which is much easier than paper. If you want to wrap the hood, just figure out the width of the piece you need on the hood and wrap it. It would be about the same as the hood on mine with a little more curvature in the cowl section to wrap. The rear quarters have bolt-on flares, but they were taken off in the video. The quarters will be wrapped in the same material and the flares will also be wrapped to match.
Ok that's what I figured u had some flares for the rear it's going to look good when finished doing a great job for ur first car! How much does the wrap cost do they charge by the foot or how do they charge u for it ? Thank u great job!
You pay by the foot. It varies on the cost for the material. The color flow is a little more expensive than a simple color. I bought a complete roll (75 feet long) so I'd have enough. I knew I would make some mistakes along the way. The whole roll is $750.
Awesome video! I have a question I have a fiberglass kit I want to wrap it’s from duraflex and I was very hesitant on purchasing it for my car because of all the reviews but I have to say it fits like a glove! Very happy with it.. now I just need to wrap it but I don’t how I should prep it.. any advise? It has a black coat on it don’t know if it’s jell or not but Can I just wrap over it or should I spray primer with a rattle can and than wet sand it? Or just sand it with no primer? And what grit?
It will need to be sanded whether you paint or not since wrap needs a very smooth surface to adhere well. I would start by wet sanding the piece with 400, 800, 1,200, and 1,500 grit paper. Then clean some of it with alcohol. Once it is dry, try a 12" x 12" piece of wrap on the surface to see how well it adheres. I painted the widebody, and eventually got it to stick. The gray Mustang that I just finished was mostly left in primer with good adherence. I would guess the gel coat will stick with good sanding and cleaning. I'd try it first before moving to paint since it is more labor overall. Let me know how it goes. Wrapping is a lot of fun. Stay patient with it.
@@BasinMotorsports thanks buddy! This was very helpful and I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions.. I’m going to do exactly what you said to start and after those steps if I need to put some primer or paint I will do so and yeah I’m going to take my time no rush long as I can get it done I will be happy plus I’m not looking for perfection just would like it to look nice.. body shops are expensive they quoted me $1200 just to paint it no install or anything and that’s just front bumper, rear and side skirts.. do you think $1200 is too much for getting it painted? I personally think it’s expensive and that’s them not doing any work on it just sanding it and painting it.. I have a small crack well not a crack more like a whole I guess from shipping the size of a dime that I need fixed.. do you recommend any filler I can use to fix it?
@@Molino-Red That price is probably about right. They probably charge $75-$100 per hour in labor, which won't take long to add up. I use a two-part epoxy to fix urethane bumpers. I have links out to Amazon in the video descriptions for everything I have used. There is also a flexible filler that works well too once the hole is patched up. You will want primer on the filler as wrap doesn't like the filler very well.
Great job, any tips for wrapping GT side skirt scoops and fog lights
My first thought would be to do it in two pieces. Wrap the deep recess in one piece with the seam at the top of part to hide the overlap. Then wrap the outer part as you normally would and make it slightly overlap the recess. A solid color would be pretty easy to hide, but a pattern is going to be difficult if you want it to appear like it flows together. It will just take a little extra work to line up the pattern.
Wow... Great work! Thanks for sharing!
Did you remove your question about solution and a heat gun? Hopefully the video answers where I used ProBond solution and the heat gun. If I can help with anything, just let me know. Thanks for watching! 👍
Hello! Is that an after market fiberglass fender? How did you prep it for wrapping? I'm asking cause I just bought an aftermarket fiberglass bumper and thinking about wrapping it instead of getting it painted.
Yes, they are aftermarket fiberglass. They came with a black gel coat, and just need to be sanded to 1,500 grit level surface finish. They are rough on the backside, so I used Pro-Bond to adhere there.
@@BasinMotorsports I see. Is that the only thing you used or did you use any lower level grit prior to 1500?
@@znyx10 On the rears I did 400, 800, 1200, then 1,500. The front were modified a lot on certain parts of the fenders. On the sections that weren't touched, I did the same as the rears.
Really like the progress and the color. The projects really taking a nice turn. I will make one point about the hood. If you like it, there's nothing else to say. But if your looking for 'attention' to gain notice at a show or event, I'm not sure it speaks well beyond attracting gaze. I think there are probably better ways to accomplish that and reinforce a sense of quality and attention to detail that many builders work hard to project and build. Maybe display the hood to do that previously mentioned work and show options and benefits inherent to wrap over paint, and then another color match or appropriately contrasting hood on the car. My point in making the comment is the car's coming along nicely and it would be a shame to gain some 'curious' interest at the loss of 'serious' interest in the process. The hood, for me, is garish, especially against the muted but interesting body color. That body color's doing a lot of interesting lift in shifting and being noticeable in its own right. As a designer the question is does the hood serve, enhance that? IMO It undermines it. But if you love it, that's all that matters especially because its your car and do what makes you happy. Love it because its what you like. That's what great about this hobby, individuation.
I do like the hood, but I also understand your point. I used the graphic for something different initially and it was also practice wrapping to get a little more experience. Garish is a good word, and I could also add "cartoonish". Someone said it looks like a scene from Grand Theft Auto (a video game), and that may bring some attention from the younger crowd. How many of them would pay me to wrap a car? I don't know. I have a second OEM steel hood that I want to make into a 2" steel cowl hood. If I move to a 351 Windsor engine, I will need the extra room too. It would be a great time to make the hood, wrap it differently, and continue to evolve the car. I plan to finish the car in the next week or so, get it all back together for a show on the 21st, and then put it away for the winter. I will then start on the '86 hatchback. I'm not sure what the hood will evolve to, but it probably won't stay with the graphic as the final look. I haven't decided if I switch to the same color change material, or maybe that and add a WideFox inlay. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate the feedback.
Awesome build! Any tips for wrapping fiberglass? Did you need to primer fiberglass fender prior or did you just clean/prep the fender as is and begin wrapping?
I put a layer of primer on to fill in any pinholes in the fiberglass surface, then a layer of paint to seal the primer. Fiberglass and primer are still porous, so it's recommended to seal it somehow (paint or clear coat) to give the vinyl a non-porous surface to adhere to.
@@BasinMotorsports what kind of paint? Spray paint?
@@User-nn5wu Yes. Just spray paint.
@@BasinMotorsports do you have to clear coat the paint aswell for the wrap to stick to the fiberglass ? or just primer and paint
@@shotsbyjoshh Paint is enough. The key is a smooth surface.
Do you know what brand wrap that was? Sorry link has expired
Avery Dennison SW900 wrap. The color was Satin Urban Jungle.
I dont have any evidence but have herd rumors on the net only. So i wonted to ask a pro do fender flare work rust over time? And do fiberglass kits shrink overtime and look bad? I have a black edition kit for my clk its been my life dream to put on. So i was wondering on the long term life expectancy decay process. Thank you so so much ?
I haven't had any issues with shrinkage on my fiberglass parts, and nothing is showing signs of rust since I did the work. As long as everything is protected from water intrusion, you shouldn't expect anything to rust.
@@BasinMotorsports Did you do a process to keep water out or is their a process. I just dont know anythang about it. My kit is going to be vynal wrapped after the fender flares are put on. Also do you have any advise for me to tell the installer or i should know. I know its a small dream but i have always wonted one of these.Thank you so much?
@@jakeamigliore606 The front fenders are just replacements, so there is no water issue there. For the rears, you have to cut the inner fender. It needs to be sealed for water intrusion. Your installer can use body seam sealer on the cuts to prevent water getting in. I used butyl based sound deadener sheets to cover the cuts because I had extra in the garage. I also make new plastic wheel well liners to keep more debris from building up in the widebody fenders. Sticky tires throw a lot of rocks and dirt. All of my work is on the channel, but some,of thise details are inside in videos (not their own video).
@@BasinMotorsports Thank you so so much this was the only thang that was holding me back from getting it installed. I couldn't find anything on the net. You are so kind for reaching out to me and educating me. You are so kind for reaching out to me and educating me and your fans. :)
@@jakeamigliore606 Let me know if you need any help along the way of installation.
So we can wrap any unpainted FRP? Without properly painting it
Yes, it should stick as long as you sand the surface smooth to ~1,500 grit and then clean it properly with 70% alcohol.
Looking good!
Thank you!
If your inner side of the front bumper is not painted and raw fiberglass how do you wrap onto that? It just won't stick
The front bumper is urethane, so I think you mean the front fenders which are fiberglass (the rears are also). The adhesion promoter I show in the video is how the vinyl is able to stick to a poor surface. You allow it to sit for about 30 seconds and it becomes very sticky for the vinyl to stick to.
@@BasinMotorsports thanks for the Pro-bond tip. I was looking for a solution and you had it. Question: you say to let the Pro-bond get sticky for 30 seconds. Do you have to rush to finish the wrap or that's just a minimum time and it stays sticky for many minutes like an hour?
@@tidlof The minimum 30 seconds allows the solvents to evaporative off and leave a tacky surface. It does have a time limit of about 10 minutes before it starts to lose the ability to stick to the wrap. You don't have to panic rush to get the wrap on, but don't leave it too long.
@@BasinMotorsports thanks.
Honestly that would drive me crazy....the wide fender has ruined the body line,kind off an eye sorer...too bad after all your hard work
What body line are you talking about? The molding area? I have a plan to reuse the OEM moldings eventually.
@@BasinMotorsports no...the one that runs down the car, just below the mirrors....the trim one is really bad too but at least you might be able to hide it a little with moldings
Take all the backing of, cut out the wheel well stretch over and squeegee! All the extra BS is unnecessary. I can do that fender in 5 minutes tops