Thanks mate, my water heater just all of a sudden wouldn't light, you can hear the igniter sparking it just won't light, I'm in the process of trying to find out why the gas won't come through, but when I find out I'll you and others know what the problem was. Thanks for the vid it was very informative. Seeya Rob.
I had one of these things on a food truck. The relay decided not to work so no propane coming thru. I raised the voltage to 4.5 (an extra battery) then eventually got rid of the batteries altogether buying a dc to dc converter to go from my 12v bank to 4.5v supplying power for this thing. Other than that it was great.
How do you do you convert the batteries to a power supply? I have one I bought a year ago and just set it up. It worked for a week but now it won't work unless I open the battery lid and close it again.
Been using these for a couple of years, only problem I have had was leaving it in the rain with no weather cover 50mm hour rain for 4 hours kills just about anything . Just changed it with a spare unit I had problems solved . Cheap and reliable
As some one who survived acute severe carbon monoxide poisoning I can tell you no, you just feel the most incredible tiredness you can imagine, you desperately need to sleep, luckily training said some thing odd go to fresh air now, and that where I was found 2h later, collapsed at the door face looking out, where just by good fortune it was winter and cold air saved my life, This was a logging camp shower house, in a home you may just go to bed and whelp that's it. Only way to know is to have a quality functioning CO detector! (In case any one was wondering how it happened: Some self described genius used a natural gas water heater on Propane (they made a co generator) Natural gas uses a larger orifice then propane so it was insanely over fuelled)
@@DavidMcLuckie ty so am I, but it left its mark, some brain damage to the motor cortex, it is well hidden, just means got to move slower for fine coordination tasks. The after effects are the worst, insane migraine, super dry throat, and a thirst that is nye imaginable! the last thing I can remember was the need to get to fresh air, after that some one hitting me trying to wake me up, then the after effects. Moral of the story, Learn what one is doing, and buy an Fing CO detector! It can and will save your life.
We have the same well 2 of them on our camping showers. I’ve seen them heat to over 70 degrees. They seem very difficult to keep to a set temp. If you have the gas low it doesn’t seem to keep the fermo couple hot enough to keep lit.
Oh wow, thanks for this video. I'm just about to start taking the casing off mine and see if I can work out why it's not igniting anymore. I've had it a week. It had been going great but one or two occasions it didn't fire. Yesterday.... Nothing. I troubleshot the inlet, outlet, batteries and gas... All fine. Looking forward to your stress test video now, but my glamping guest can't wait weeks for a shower 😬 I'm going to have to get onto the company!
the 25k info on the label means it can heat the water 25 degrees ( on the one i've played with said it was measured in Celsius) above the input temp of the water on minimum gas setting and minimum water flow. different unit/model to the one you have the one i've seen can go as low as 5L per minute
This reminds me of those cylindrical hot water geysers people used to have sat over their sinks with that long tap sticking out the side, and also in bathrooms of many decades ago where people used them in a very much sealed room and ended up permenantly "falling asleep" in the bath due to CO poisoning, thank goodness for the balanced flue we have today... :S
@@DavidMcLuckie Yep, there was a programme called "Hidden Killers of the Post-War Home" where they loosely described how people died from bathing in a bathroom full of CO from those gas heaters (which at the time used Town Gas, derived from roasting coal), a very sad way to go... :(
@@DavidMcLuckie Pretty much, it was mostly comprised of various gases, including carbon monoxide, hence the old "head in the oven" ways out people took, you get much the same from making charcoal too (aptly named Wood Gas), especially if you capture the gas for useful purposes, but it's nasty stuff, so best only used outdoors too...
Hey David thank you for posting this video, I am using it to fix my Westpoint thingy. One remark though, the pressure sensor should rather be referred as a pressure actuator which opens the gas inlet as well as moves the lever on the micro switch to start the igniter (the small electronic box). The sensor on the outlet is for the display of the temperature not for the pressure. The other sensor near the heat exchanger is to prevent over temperature, what I have read from the Internet is that this one which sends a temperature signal to the micro controller to cut the gas supply by closing the gas solenoid, if it exceeds 65 degrees centigrade. It seems the first design of these things was from Rinnai, correct me if I am wrong.
Hello!! From Arizona USA. I have the same model Camplux heater as this one. I’m reassembling it after repairing the copper pipe which busted after a severe freeze. Regarding the reattachment of the cover wires to the unit wires. Which go where?? On the cover we have one set which is a blue & black combo and another one yellow and black. On the unit there is one blue and blue and another one which is blue, yellow and black. What attaches to where. Any help would be appreciated. 7:55
What you called a thermocouple is probably a flame rectification electrode, it sends a very low AC voltage to the electrode and through the flame. the flame rectifies that to DC and returns it via the burner that the control box will see and confirms its alight, if no flame nothing can pass to the burner and it would go to lockout. Much quicker and more reliable than a thermocouple and cannot be bypassed.
Hi David, thanks for making this great video. Very helpful to understand how the thing actually works. I'm having a trouble with mine. Temp does not get higher than 30ºC even with max gas min water flow. Gas supply is fine. Just put in a new regulator. Any idea what it could be? I'm off grid and using mine with a 12v 4A pump that runs on a car battery. Curious to hear what you think. Thanks
Hi, we have one of these for our glamping shepherd hut. It’s been great up til yesterday, when turning the hot water on inside the hut( boiler is in a sealed metal cupboard outside) the boiler ignites for maybe a second then it goes out. Sparker keeps trying to reignite but it won’t. Any ideas? Phil
I've bought 5 of those type of units, all different Chinese makes, and all have the same problem: too hot. I've put in-line pumps on their respective water inlet pipes, and still they're waaaay too hot. They're all rated for LPG (not natural gas) and I feed 'em LPG. I welcome any informed suggestions on how to get my HW-on-demand units to work well. Years ago, I resided in Asia and installed a half dozen similar units, and they all worked fine. Over here in the USA, they don't work for me. Do they have flow-restrictors built in? I'm miffed.
Having same issue. Way too hot! Can’t figure it out. I have a Forusee but it looks like this. Amazon no longer sells it. When I try to increase water +, it stops and only seems ignite when I turn water to - (minus)
@@sve8140 It's probably some restriction of water flow at the nozzle of the exit hose. I fixed my problems when I either cleaned the nozzles, or just got rid of the nozzles altogether, and just shower under a stream of water. I actually prefer the latter.
When you say nozzle, do you mean the hand held shower nozzle? So I have mine connected to pex pipes red/blue that supply my tiny house so my shower nozzle is on the other side of the wall from the heater on the inside and my unit is outside. I wasn’t bringing that thing inside and people who are doing that and not properly venting them are nuts! I did have a prob with sawdust in my pex pipes after construction and once water pushed through the pipes all the dust was clogging the filters at the faucets. The output of the faucet started having low water pressure so I knew it was clogged. Also my bathroom sink and kitchen sink have a hot faucet and a cold so it was easier to see where the problem is. I have the dial in the shower. It has great pressure but maybe the cold water line is clogged so it’s not getting a good mix of cold with the hot? Let me know if I’m misunderstanding what you’re telling me to check. It’s a great way to troubleshoot it & see if it’s happening right out of the unit. Should have thought about that. That will let me know if it’s the unit getting too much lp or some issue with clogging of pipes or with the shower handle causing restriction. I did toggle the +\- inside the shower handle as someone suggested that may be it but it’s still coming in way too hot. Maybe the cold water side coming in is clogged so I’m not getting a good mix? I’ll check all that …thanks! I’ll see if that’s it and let you know if it works. I also saw a video where someone suggested to get a regulator where you can control how much propane is coming in. He was turning his propane knob to barely open so his water temp would come down. He ended up getting a different regulator I think one with a low flow.
Im planning on building an "apartment" inside a 19/26 ton boxtruck, with 2000L of water (and grayewater) and everything you'd find inside the modern apartment. I've been thinking of using something like this for my hot water needs. You've given me all the info I need. Gonna put it in a box with a sprinkler inside, just incase
@@jamesemery1 oh thanks I had not considered the blatantly obvious aspect. Surely there are more specific details to the matter. That's a lot of space to sacrifice when many people get along well with vastly less and only needing to empty/fill every couple weeks. Is it a desire to maintain "comfortable" habits which may consume more water? Perhaps remote travel which precludes regular stops? Maybe multiple people living in it? Many reasons may be present beyond just "I'm lazy bro" which would be worth consideration by others. And maybe that's all it is, but it may not be.
@@MastaSquidge maybe the vehicle is static and just used to get around planning permission with the "apartment" being on a movable vehicle so exempt to many planning laws dependent on the country, what ever the reason it doesn't affect anyone but him
I have one like this and a forced air unit they are made by Marey . the draft one needs 4' of stack to draft correctly. I would not use in a truck or trailer. mine is in a shed to go with a washer and drier , works good. i have not changed the batteries in a year. i have the forced air unit in a travel trailer and love it
I have one of these too; great little heater. It lives in its own sealed room at the back of the van with a flue, ample ventilation and a CO detector, just in case.
@@codepuncher Sorry, but I don't remember the exact measurements, but it's something like there has to be a minimum length of flue between the boiler and the exhaust (so you get a good enough draft to pull out the fumes - this varies from boiler to boiler, I think mine was something like 2-3 feet), also also a minimum distance between the bottom of the exhaust and the roof itself (presumably so you don't burn your paint, mine was around 5 inches), also the exhaust has to be a minimum distance from any open-able windows, doors or other air inlets, so you don't accidentally let fumes into your van. If in doubt, it may be better to pay a gas fitter to do the work, at least that way it's all legit, and there's a lower risk of you accidentally gassing yourself or your loved ones.
I'm guessing you will need a reasonably good pump to ensure it works correctly. I wonder if one of those cheap whale ones would do the job? I've got one supplying my sink in the van and it's bloody impressive for a wee £11 submersible pump...would be an interesting test though!! Regards Mick
@@DavidMcLuckie I had the one I have running off a Shurflo 7 L/Min 20 Psi 12V no problem! I bought the Heater from Ebay (Latvia) for £52 a couple of years ago. Tested and ran Great! Plan to attach to a back door on my Transit Custom, as you suggested.. The battery power is it's weak point I agree, a 3-5 volt Step Down is a great idea! 👍
I have the same unit and was really pleased with my Camplux water heater until it started rusting…the exterior paint/ powder coating bubbles and then cracks and peels after a few weeks of usage. The shower head becomes yellow after time too.Pretty gutted really it’s not even 2 yrs old
@@DavidMcLuckie very true David!! They are a great item, I may email Camplux and ask them about the coating- it says on the instructions in simple terms (do not let it get rain on it!) My point being they expect you to mount it outside due to CO2 and heat emissions but it’s NOT weatherproof 😂
I was looking at 12 volt RV direction ignition furnace parts/systems. I want to make a direct ignition automatic thermostatic radiant propane heater that is portable running off a small lpg tank and small battery. It looks like the cheapest way to get a 12 volt control/ignition system is to buy one of these and take the parts from and it and mash it up with a buddy heater type head.
love this, thakyou soooooo much!!!! so helpfull for my troubleshooting! Incidently...... I actually have one in my camper - for a year or 2 - been working fine - properly flued and all that (removed the fan from the flue as i didnt want to build a rocket engine!) - got a M02 alarm right next to it for safety which has worked in the past - now the water heater is not working (so after fiking about with water input etc and pressure (as I thought this might be the issue) - still cant get it to initiate its sparking mechanism... still investigating.... very helpful! will investigate ignition system with my multimeter...... any thoughts? yes the battery are a big joke, snapped off the same battery clips! but hey - it cost me around 110 quid when i got it - my version is a little different - has a winter/summer knob.... they all pretty much the same from what ive seen..... thanks again buddy!
I think I make a concealed thin steel box with a (outside) air in and double insulated outlet a bit like combi boilers work. Guess it’s like you say as well, your not using it while sleeping. I see a lot of people yelling about the dangers and carbon monoxide and what not while at the same time they are using a gas hob and oven.
I didn't bleed mine out completely and it froze and cracked the big brass pressure chamber in the middle. It leaks a tiny bit and it does not build pressure. So I'm JB welding it and if that works. I'm going to use it for a while and than change the battery compartment out with a buck converter from 12vdc to 3vdc and wire it into my water pump harness with a barrell connector to the blade connector so if it ever dies completely I can just unplug my buck converter and move it over to my next one.
Hi! Thanks for this video. I very stupidly installed one with an on/off switch on the shower head. I turned it all on but they shower head was ‘off’ so the water pressure (being tankless) just exploded the unit and water came out everywhere. I since bought a replacement and learned my lesson. My question is, with the old one is there a specific part I could replace or adjust to fix the damage caused so that it works again? The one I have is identical to the one you have. Any advice would be amazing 😁
I think that'll depend on what actually failed. If it's the heat exchanger it's pretty much done, but if it's one of the bolt on parts it might be salvageable.
@@DavidMcLuckie I’ve since managed to find it! It burst one of the ‘c shape’ connectors at the top where the pipe weaved in and out. So looks like I need to replace that. Thanks for replying!
How about using this to heat the water in an inflatable hottub? The 2kw heater in the lazyspa is expensive to run and very slow to bring to temperature. Thoughts?
@@DavidMcLuckie Indeed. To keep the tub at 40 deg c costs approx £10 per day. To bring to temp from say 20 deg can take approx 24 hours. Its a 2kw inline heater in the hottub unit. Holds 800litres.
Mine is vented to the outside to the outside. I only use it for showering inside my camper. Co2 monitor raises to 10-12ppm after about 1 min of use. I then open the side windows to add extra ventilation. Touch wood, I haven’t been killed yet.
Hi there, I have a 8L per minute portable hot shower unit similar to this, with a 8lpm 12 volt water pump and it's got hardly any flow out shower head.Its about a year old and worked fine. Could it be blocked inside or have air pocket somehow? Any help would be appreciated, thanks
Run vinegar thru water heater for 1hour. You can turn heat off. Use pump and recirculate in bucket. I do mine monthly. Calcium builds up from hard water. Also use water filter before the heater. Helps.
Assuming I ever get it back, we could see how much of this camper van stuff we could jam on the Landcruiser. Then overland up the campsies and shit in a bucket.
The gas burning sounds just like a gas oven or more like the sound of a gas burner in a gas dryer.. Its not loud st all.. Aa mentioned the water makes more noise.. So as loud as the loudest noise your running water can make.. Thats what you'll hear.
I have a 6 litre per minute unit, similar to that one, that has a switch on the bottom. It doesn't have a place to attach a chimney pipe, just a plate to deflect the heat so it doesn't burn a hole in your ceiling. There is a sticker on the front that says "ventilate room when in use". Works well and cost only $60 US.
I ended up having to remove the plunger off the solenoid for the propain because its the cheapest POS solenoid they could find from China. I know it's dangerous, but i only use it outside. Also, i used a usb cable and a cellphone charger to power it.
I got a similar of ebay and i found it was not hot enough for what i wanted so i added copper cpu heat sinks to the inside of it to capture more heat before going to the heat exchanger and added some more insulation works great now, use as and emergency heating for my solar hot water.
So a gas stove in a rv is ok but a hot water heater is danderous , id like to see a carbon monoxide test please,,,,,,,show how much comes off a stove with an oven and this heater , i bet you get 0 on both ,,,, the main issue is it eats oxygen,,,, if you have a window cracked this is fine indoors , also you could vent it as well , but hey go shower outside ,i prefer the privacy of my camper ....
I completely agree. And if I were to make this video again now, that's what I would say. But at the time it was easier to not deal with the backlash of CO death comments by making a big thing of only running it outdoors.
Id like to see someone do a test in a rv ,,,,,,run your stove and see how much carbon monoxide it puts in your rv and run this hot water heater and do same test ,,,here is my issue with all you worry warts ,,,,,do you accually think this water heater will kill you if you use it indoors ? If so why doesn't your PROPANE STOVE KILL YOU THEN ? Im sure three burners running on a propane stove put out more carbon monoxide then one water heater ....what takes more time ? Cooking dinner or taking a quick shower hmmmmm did you ever hear of someone dieing from cooking in a rv ?...........ya fear mongering safty pushing worry warts that do no testing always seem to know it all ..........do some true tests if you want to convince people its dangerous to use indoors , the manufacturer says this to save them from fire lawsuits not carbon monoxide , please someone direct me to an article where someone has died useing one of these indoors ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,oh there isnt one hmmmmm in a world full of morons there has to be at least one case ,,,,,,,no ,,,,,,oh must be true , its on the interweb .......
I didn't bleed mine out completely and it froze and cracked the big brass pressure chamber in the middle. It leaks a tiny bit and it does not build pressure. So I'm JB welding it and if that works. I'm going to use it for a while and than change the battery compartment out with a buck converter from 12vdc to 3vdc and wire it into my water pump harness with a barrell connector to the blade connector so if it ever dies completely I can just unplug my buck converter and move it over to my next one.
I didn't bleed mine out completely and it froze and cracked the big brass pressure chamber in the middle. It leaks a tiny bit and it does not build pressure. So I'm JB welding it and if that works. I'm going to use it for a while and than change the battery compartment out with a buck converter from 12vdc to 3vdc and wire it into my water pump harness with a barrell connector to the blade connector so if it ever dies completely I can just unplug my buck converter and move it over to my next one.
This is the best information about the Complex instant shower that I have. Thank you for reminding me that I am the master of my own destiny!
Thanks mate, my water heater just all of a sudden wouldn't light, you can hear the igniter sparking it just won't light, I'm in the process of trying to find out why the gas won't come through, but when I find out I'll you and others know what the problem was. Thanks for the vid it was very informative. Seeya Rob.
I had one of these things on a food truck. The relay decided not to work so no propane coming thru. I raised the voltage to 4.5 (an extra battery) then eventually got rid of the batteries altogether buying a dc to dc converter to go from my 12v bank to 4.5v supplying power for this thing. Other than that it was great.
How do you do you convert the batteries to a power supply? I have one I bought a year ago and just set it up. It worked for a week but now it won't work unless I open the battery lid and close it again.
The heater runs on two batteries, meaning 3 volts.
Been using these for a couple of years, only problem I have had was leaving it in the rain with no weather cover 50mm hour rain for 4 hours kills just about anything . Just changed it with a spare unit I had problems solved . Cheap and reliable
As some one who survived acute severe carbon monoxide poisoning I can tell you no, you just feel the most incredible tiredness you can imagine, you desperately need to sleep, luckily training said some thing odd go to fresh air now, and that where I was found 2h later, collapsed at the door face looking out, where just by good fortune it was winter and cold air saved my life, This was a logging camp shower house, in a home you may just go to bed and whelp that's it. Only way to know is to have a quality functioning CO detector!
(In case any one was wondering how it happened: Some self described genius used a natural gas water heater on Propane (they made a co generator) Natural gas uses a larger orifice then propane so it was insanely over fuelled)
Well I'm glad you survived to tell the story.
@@DavidMcLuckie ty so am I, but it left its mark, some brain damage to the motor cortex, it is well hidden, just means got to move slower for fine coordination tasks. The after effects are the worst, insane migraine, super dry throat, and a thirst that is nye imaginable! the last thing I can remember was the need to get to fresh air, after that some one hitting me trying to wake me up, then the after effects. Moral of the story, Learn what one is doing, and buy an Fing CO detector! It can and will save your life.
@@Refertech101 Glad you survived to post this warning to others!
We have the same well 2 of them on our camping showers. I’ve seen them heat to over 70 degrees. They seem very difficult to keep to a set temp. If you have the gas low it doesn’t seem to keep the fermo couple hot enough to keep lit.
Oh wow, thanks for this video. I'm just about to start taking the casing off mine and see if I can work out why it's not igniting anymore. I've had it a week. It had been going great but one or two occasions it didn't fire. Yesterday.... Nothing. I troubleshot the inlet, outlet, batteries and gas... All fine. Looking forward to your stress test video now, but my glamping guest can't wait weeks for a shower 😬 I'm going to have to get onto the company!
I have a similar camplux, your video helped me get mine working agian.
the 25k info on the label means it can heat the water 25 degrees ( on the one i've played with said it was measured in Celsius) above the input temp of the water on minimum gas setting and minimum water flow. different unit/model to the one you have the one i've seen can go as low as 5L per minute
I suspected that as Kelvin and Celsius use the same temperature scale.
This reminds me of those cylindrical hot water geysers people used to have sat over their sinks with that long tap sticking out the side, and also in bathrooms of many decades ago where people used them in a very much sealed room and ended up permenantly "falling asleep" in the bath due to CO poisoning, thank goodness for the balanced flue we have today... :S
Oh dear. Yeah nice hot bath, relaxing CO sending you off to the big sleep.
@@DavidMcLuckie Yep, there was a programme called "Hidden Killers of the Post-War Home" where they loosely described how people died from bathing in a bathroom full of CO from those gas heaters (which at the time used Town Gas, derived from roasting coal), a very sad way to go... :(
Oh fuck, town gas. Did that not literally kill you within seconds it was that bad?
@@DavidMcLuckie Pretty much, it was mostly comprised of various gases, including carbon monoxide, hence the old "head in the oven" ways out people took, you get much the same from making charcoal too (aptly named Wood Gas), especially if you capture the gas for useful purposes, but it's nasty stuff, so best only used outdoors too...
Hey David thank you for posting this video, I am using it to fix my Westpoint thingy. One remark though, the pressure sensor should rather be referred as a pressure actuator which opens the gas inlet as well as moves the lever on the micro switch to start the igniter (the small electronic box). The sensor on the outlet is for the display of the temperature not for the pressure. The other sensor near the heat exchanger is to prevent over temperature, what I have read from the Internet is that this one which sends a temperature signal to the micro controller to cut the gas supply by closing the gas solenoid, if it exceeds 65 degrees centigrade. It seems the first design of these things was from Rinnai, correct me if I am wrong.
Hello!! From Arizona USA.
I have the same model Camplux heater as this one.
I’m reassembling it after repairing the copper pipe which busted after a severe freeze.
Regarding the reattachment of the cover wires to the unit wires.
Which go where??
On the cover we have one set which is a blue & black combo and another one yellow and black.
On the unit there is one blue and blue and another one which is blue, yellow and black.
What attaches to where.
Any help would be appreciated. 7:55
What you called a thermocouple is probably a flame rectification electrode, it sends a very low AC voltage to the electrode and through the flame. the flame rectifies that to DC and returns it via the burner that the control box will see and confirms its alight, if no flame nothing can pass to the burner and it would go to lockout.
Much quicker and more reliable than a thermocouple and cannot be bypassed.
Guess I'm showing my age. :)
Hi David, thanks for making this great video. Very helpful to understand how the thing actually works. I'm having a trouble with mine. Temp does not get higher than 30ºC even with max gas min water flow. Gas supply is fine. Just put in a new regulator. Any idea what it could be? I'm off grid and using mine with a 12v 4A pump that runs on a car battery. Curious to hear what you think. Thanks
Hi, we have one of these for our glamping shepherd hut. It’s been great up til yesterday, when turning the hot water on inside the hut( boiler is in a sealed metal cupboard outside) the boiler ignites for maybe a second then it goes out. Sparker keeps trying to reignite but it won’t. Any ideas? Phil
I've bought 5 of those type of units, all different Chinese makes, and all have the same problem: too hot. I've put in-line pumps on their respective water inlet pipes, and still they're waaaay too hot. They're all rated for LPG (not natural gas) and I feed 'em LPG. I welcome any informed suggestions on how to get my HW-on-demand units to work well. Years ago, I resided in Asia and installed a half dozen similar units, and they all worked fine. Over here in the USA, they don't work for me. Do they have flow-restrictors built in? I'm miffed.
Having same issue. Way too hot! Can’t figure it out. I have a Forusee but it looks like this. Amazon no longer sells it. When I try to increase water +, it stops and only seems ignite when I turn water to - (minus)
@@sve8140 It's probably some restriction of water flow at the nozzle of the exit hose. I fixed my problems when I either cleaned the nozzles, or just got rid of the nozzles altogether, and just shower under a stream of water. I actually prefer the latter.
When you say nozzle, do you mean the hand held shower nozzle? So I have mine connected to pex pipes red/blue that supply my tiny house so my shower nozzle is on the other side of the wall from the heater on the inside and my unit is outside. I wasn’t bringing that thing inside and people who are doing that and not properly venting them are nuts!
I did have a prob with sawdust in my pex pipes after construction and once water pushed through the pipes all the dust was clogging the filters at the faucets. The output of the faucet started having low water pressure so I knew it was clogged. Also my bathroom sink and kitchen sink have a hot faucet and a cold so it was easier to see where the problem is. I have the dial in the shower. It has great pressure but maybe the cold water line is clogged so it’s not getting a good mix of cold with the hot? Let me know if I’m misunderstanding what you’re telling me to check.
It’s a great way to troubleshoot it & see if it’s happening right out of the unit. Should have thought about that. That will let me know if it’s the unit getting too much lp or some issue with clogging of pipes or with the shower handle causing restriction.
I did toggle the +\- inside the shower handle as someone suggested that may be it but it’s still coming in way too hot. Maybe the cold water side coming in is clogged so I’m not getting a good mix? I’ll check all that …thanks!
I’ll see if that’s it and let you know if it works. I also saw a video where someone suggested to get a regulator where you can control how much propane is coming in. He was turning his propane knob to barely open so his water temp would come down. He ended up getting a different regulator I think one with a low flow.
Im planning on building an "apartment" inside a 19/26 ton boxtruck, with 2000L of water (and grayewater) and everything you'd find inside the modern apartment. I've been thinking of using something like this for my hot water needs. You've given me all the info I need. Gonna put it in a box with a sprinkler inside, just incase
Good lord. 4 cubic meters worth?
Even if that's the total between the two that's a *lot* of space used for water.
Why so much?
@@MastaSquidge maybe so he doesn't have to empty the grey water as often
@@jamesemery1 oh thanks I had not considered the blatantly obvious aspect.
Surely there are more specific details to the matter. That's a lot of space to sacrifice when many people get along well with vastly less and only needing to empty/fill every couple weeks. Is it a desire to maintain "comfortable" habits which may consume more water? Perhaps remote travel which precludes regular stops?
Maybe multiple people living in it?
Many reasons may be present beyond just "I'm lazy bro" which would be worth consideration by others.
And maybe that's all it is, but it may not be.
@@MastaSquidge maybe the vehicle is static and just used to get around planning permission with the "apartment" being on a movable vehicle so exempt to many planning laws dependent on the country, what ever the reason it doesn't affect anyone but him
@@MastaSquidge no its more like 15-20 m³ it takes 21 pallets
I got a 47kg lpg bottle for £80. My camplux water heater comes today from amazon. I opted for the 16 litre version
I have one like this and a forced air unit they are made by Marey . the draft one needs 4' of stack to draft correctly. I would not use in a truck or trailer. mine is in a shed to go with a washer and drier , works good. i have not changed the batteries in a year. i have the forced air unit in a travel trailer and love it
when they sent it for review , i wonder if they knew the first thing DM would do is take it apart to see how it choches ??
And then we'll see if it matches what the label says.
HI DAVID from Arizona, USA , missed seeing you Bro. !
I have a similar unit made by joolca I have mine in a vw transporter mounted on a TV bracket so it can be outside vehicle quickly
Now that's clever.
I have a similar heater in my static caravan, Cointra CPA 11 Litre LPG….it’s great (obviously it has a flue fitted)
I have one of these too; great little heater. It lives in its own sealed room at the back of the van with a flue, ample ventilation and a CO detector, just in case.
@@therealchayd Hi bud, could you please give me a some info on your flue arrangement.
@@codepuncher Sorry, but I don't remember the exact measurements, but it's something like there has to be a minimum length of flue between the boiler and the exhaust (so you get a good enough draft to pull out the fumes - this varies from boiler to boiler, I think mine was something like 2-3 feet), also also a minimum distance between the bottom of the exhaust and the roof itself (presumably so you don't burn your paint, mine was around 5 inches), also the exhaust has to be a minimum distance from any open-able windows, doors or other air inlets, so you don't accidentally let fumes into your van. If in doubt, it may be better to pay a gas fitter to do the work, at least that way it's all legit, and there's a lower risk of you accidentally gassing yourself or your loved ones.
@@therealchayd Thanks I appreciate your reply. Probably good advice to get a gas guy in.
Do u no haw to disconnect the 20minit shut off
I'm guessing you will need a reasonably good pump to ensure it works correctly. I wonder if one of those cheap whale ones would do the job? I've got one supplying my sink in the van and it's bloody impressive for a wee £11 submersible pump...would be an interesting test though!! Regards Mick
That's what I'm after. Test suggestions.
@@DavidMcLuckie love your test rigs...saves me making a pigs ear out of it!! 👍
@@elfillari it's just the cheapest one I could find. Not sure of the model number, just search whale water pump on ebay...under 20 euros I'm sure
@@DavidMcLuckie I had the one I have running off a Shurflo 7 L/Min 20 Psi 12V no problem!
I bought the Heater from Ebay (Latvia) for £52 a couple of years ago. Tested and ran Great! Plan to attach to a back door on my Transit Custom, as you suggested.. The battery power is it's weak point I agree, a 3-5 volt Step Down is a great idea! 👍
I have the same unit and was really pleased with my Camplux water heater until it started rusting…the exterior paint/ powder coating bubbles and then cracks and peels after a few weeks of usage. The shower head becomes yellow after time too.Pretty gutted really it’s not even 2 yrs old
Disappointing. But at least the main heater hasn't died in your 2 years of use. Which gives me hope. :)
@@DavidMcLuckie very true David!! They are a great item, I may email Camplux and ask them about the coating- it says on the instructions in simple terms (do not let it get rain on it!) My point being they expect you to mount it outside due to CO2 and heat emissions but it’s NOT weatherproof 😂
I was looking at 12 volt RV direction ignition furnace parts/systems. I want to make a direct ignition automatic thermostatic radiant propane heater that is portable running off a small lpg tank and small battery. It looks like the cheapest way to get a 12 volt control/ignition system is to buy one of these and take the parts from and it and mash it up with a buddy heater type head.
love this, thakyou soooooo much!!!! so helpfull for my troubleshooting! Incidently...... I actually have one in my camper - for a year or 2 - been working fine - properly flued and all that (removed the fan from the flue as i didnt want to build a rocket engine!) - got a M02 alarm right next to it for safety which has worked in the past - now the water heater is not working (so after fiking about with water input etc and pressure (as I thought this might be the issue) - still cant get it to initiate its sparking mechanism... still investigating.... very helpful! will investigate ignition system with my multimeter...... any thoughts? yes the battery are a big joke, snapped off the same battery clips! but hey - it cost me around 110 quid when i got it - my version is a little different - has a winter/summer knob.... they all pretty much the same from what ive seen..... thanks again buddy!
I'd check the LOW voltage side of the spark generator is getting power when it should be sparking. They are a wear item and it might have died.
I think I make a concealed thin steel box with a (outside) air in and double insulated outlet a bit like combi boilers work. Guess it’s like you say as well, your not using it while sleeping. I see a lot of people yelling about the dangers and carbon monoxide and what not while at the same time they are using a gas hob and oven.
Are you sure you do not have the BD264? I thought the BW264 has a third control on the front for Eco mode...
I was looking at these for my camper van
In the ads for it it shows it vented through a wall.
Will this run off of "city" water" connection (pressure) without the need of a pump?
Yes. I ran it off a garden hose attached to my mains water.
Are there water heaters similar to this that could be used in campervans. Thanks 😊
I didn't bleed mine out completely and it froze and cracked the big brass pressure chamber in the middle. It leaks a tiny bit and it does not build pressure. So I'm JB welding it and if that works. I'm going to use it for a while and than change the battery compartment out with a buck converter from 12vdc to 3vdc and wire it into my water pump harness with a barrell connector to the blade connector so if it ever dies completely I can just unplug my buck converter and move it over to my next one.
I judt discovered mine wasn't fully empty either- I feel silly about it. Hope to try this fix as well & see how much time I can keep using it.
Hi! Thanks for this video. I very stupidly installed one with an on/off switch on the shower head. I turned it all on but they shower head was ‘off’ so the water pressure (being tankless) just exploded the unit and water came out everywhere. I since bought a replacement and learned my lesson. My question is, with the old one is there a specific part I could replace or adjust to fix the damage caused so that it works again? The one I have is identical to the one you have. Any advice would be amazing 😁
I think that'll depend on what actually failed. If it's the heat exchanger it's pretty much done, but if it's one of the bolt on parts it might be salvageable.
@@DavidMcLuckie I’ve since managed to find it! It burst one of the ‘c shape’ connectors at the top where the pipe weaved in and out. So looks like I need to replace that. Thanks for replying!
Wicked content 👌
How about using this to heat the water in an inflatable hottub? The 2kw heater in the lazyspa is expensive to run and very slow to bring to temperature. Thoughts?
I use one to heat my 5 person hot tub. Works well.
@@rolandrockstarmega1299 Cool. Do you use a separate pump to recycle the water from the tub through the shower unit or just the lazyspa pump?
Need to maths that one out. Cost per KWh of electricity vs propane, and take into account the true efficiency of the gas boiler.
@@DavidMcLuckie Indeed. To keep the tub at 40 deg c costs approx £10 per day. To bring to temp from say 20 deg can take approx 24 hours. Its a 2kw inline heater in the hottub unit. Holds 800litres.
What is the bag of hardware for?
8:15 I mean, there's ONE way to make sure it's off with a switch... A waterproof missile toggle switch! :P
Mine is vented to the outside to the outside. I only use it for showering inside my camper. Co2 monitor raises to 10-12ppm after about 1 min of use. I then open the side windows to add extra ventilation. Touch wood, I haven’t been killed yet.
Hi there, I have a 8L per minute portable hot shower unit similar to this, with a 8lpm 12 volt water pump and it's got hardly any flow out shower head.Its about a year old and worked fine. Could it be blocked inside or have air pocket somehow?
Any help would be appreciated, thanks
Is your pump still good when not attached to the shower?
@@DavidMcLuckie yeah it pumps way faster when not attached
Run vinegar thru water heater for 1hour. You can turn heat off. Use pump and recirculate in bucket. I do mine monthly. Calcium builds up from hard water. Also use water filter before the heater. Helps.
@dmax1234 thanks for the info
David, i have a BOSCH thats constructed in the same cheap manner.
Thank you
Assuming I ever get it back, we could see how much of this camper van stuff we could jam on the Landcruiser. Then overland up the campsies and shit in a bucket.
Great video David! Quick question, how loud is it when it's running? Thanks!
Almost silent. The noise of the water from the shower head is louder. But this sounds like another test to do. :)
The gas burning sounds just like a gas oven or more like the sound of a gas burner in a gas dryer..
Its not loud st all..
Aa mentioned the water makes more noise..
So as loud as the loudest noise your running water can make..
Thats what you'll hear.
heck yea subscribed
My Chinese gas water heater has a switch on the bottom where just where you want one.
Sensible.
I have a 6 litre per minute unit, similar to that one, that has a switch on the bottom. It doesn't have a place to attach a chimney pipe, just a plate to deflect the heat so it doesn't burn a hole in your ceiling. There is a sticker on the front that says "ventilate room when in use". Works well and cost only $60 US.
What’s the brand, please?
Well that‘d be an interesting project: Make your own biogas and connect it to a solar-generated power sources complete independence!
i think i would swap the d cells out nad have a 18650 and holder
thought mrs doubtfire was the voice after the helloooo
Will it work on propane or butane?
Both. Has Propane and Butane on the label but only comes with a Propane regulator.
Not an on off valve, a butterfly valve ... it flutters.
not pressure sensor, uses a flow sensor.
I ended up having to remove the plunger off the solenoid for the propain because its the cheapest POS solenoid they could find from China. I know it's dangerous, but i only use it outside. Also, i used a usb cable and a cellphone charger to power it.
Have anyone hacked this thing so it doesn't turn off after 20min?
I got a similar of ebay and i found it was not hot enough for what i wanted so i added copper cpu heat sinks to the inside of it to capture more heat before going to the heat exchanger and added some more insulation works great now, use as and emergency heating for my solar hot water.
What brand?
Nice video , But 90% seems optimistic.
Oh boy is that something I'm going to test. :)
Torture test, I like your humour 😂
So a gas stove in a rv is ok but a hot water heater is danderous , id like to see a carbon monoxide test please,,,,,,,show how much comes off a stove with an oven and this heater , i bet you get 0 on both ,,,, the main issue is it eats oxygen,,,, if you have a window cracked this is fine indoors , also you could vent it as well , but hey go shower outside ,i prefer the privacy of my camper ....
I completely agree. And if I were to make this video again now, that's what I would say. But at the time it was easier to not deal with the backlash of CO death comments by making a big thing of only running it outdoors.
Id like to see someone do a test in a rv ,,,,,,run your stove and see how much carbon monoxide it puts in your rv and run this hot water heater and do same test ,,,here is my issue with all you worry warts ,,,,,do you accually think this water heater will kill you if you use it indoors ? If so why doesn't your PROPANE STOVE KILL YOU THEN ? Im sure three burners running on a propane stove put out more carbon monoxide then one water heater ....what takes more time ? Cooking dinner or taking a quick shower hmmmmm did you ever hear of someone dieing from cooking in a rv ?...........ya fear mongering safty pushing worry warts that do no testing always seem to know it all ..........do some true tests if you want to convince people its dangerous to use indoors , the manufacturer says this to save them from fire lawsuits not carbon monoxide , please someone direct me to an article where someone has died useing one of these indoors ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,oh there isnt one hmmmmm in a world full of morons there has to be at least one case ,,,,,,,no ,,,,,,oh must be true , its on the interweb .......
Water pressure pump
I threw a 12v buck converter on my unit and ripped that dumb D battery holder out of there.
"Hello" is very annoying, sorry.
Thanks for sharing. But I don't care.
I didn't bleed mine out completely and it froze and cracked the big brass pressure chamber in the middle. It leaks a tiny bit and it does not build pressure. So I'm JB welding it and if that works. I'm going to use it for a while and than change the battery compartment out with a buck converter from 12vdc to 3vdc and wire it into my water pump harness with a barrell connector to the blade connector so if it ever dies completely I can just unplug my buck converter and move it over to my next one.
I didn't bleed mine out completely and it froze and cracked the big brass pressure chamber in the middle. It leaks a tiny bit and it does not build pressure. So I'm JB welding it and if that works. I'm going to use it for a while and than change the battery compartment out with a buck converter from 12vdc to 3vdc and wire it into my water pump harness with a barrell connector to the blade connector so if it ever dies completely I can just unplug my buck converter and move it over to my next one.
Update: Despite my redneck ingenuity I could not get it to work. So I disassembled it for its parts and salvage value (for future hack jobs)