Thanks to you brother. I try to find a cheap perhaps a free way to raise rebar for my project and this its perfect solution. I am building miniramp for skateboard.
Im surprised that they have the typical 2' lap splice on the straight runs of rebar but they don't call out the corners to be either field bent 90°s or prebent pieces laid at the corners.
U did better than most homeowners ever would, sure u drove bar into the ground, didn't bend your corners, but u dis put 4 bar in there around the thickened edge. Our code calls for 2. As a 30 year concrete contractor, I would suggest never using wire mesh, unless in conjunction with a rebar grid. Looks like 6 mil visqueen, good job. This is better than 90% of the so called professionals do
Yep looks pretty good other than not enough bar overlap at the corners. You need to maintain the same required overlap(x times rebar diameter) at every rebar junction so all the corners should have been bent into "L" shaped sections. Surprised the inspector didn't make you change that. Also agree that all the rebar should be inside the concrete. That is why the foundation bolts are usually specced as galvanized. The cage like the mesh is usually just blocked up with the blocks being removed as the pour progresses. It can also be hung by wire loop with the wire pulled out as the pour progresses, or be hung by the foundation bolts held in frames attached to wood brackets nailed to the forms.
40 rebar diameters is typically the amount of lap required. Also the distance from rebar to formwork should be 3". This allows more concrete into this area surrounding the steel. Rebar chairs is recommended instead of the brick shown in the video, again, this gets back to the three inches needed for the concrete, surrounding the steel! thanks for the video!!
Thanks for posting. Quick questions, - do you remove the rods driven into the ground during concrete pour? I thought Rio is always supposed to have concrete cover to prevent Rio rusting.
Only thing I see is the vertical bars driven thru the fill, this leaves the bar ends exposed and as the bar rust back and up in to you foundation the expansion from the combining of iron and oxygen will bust open the concrete in time, bar needs to be fully encapsulated to protect it, and the exposed end act as an entry point. just an thought on future project.
In the Bay Area instead of round washers we use 2" or larger square bearing plates. It keeps the sill from splitting during an earthquake as it applies a wider force over the sill.
Just a suggestion, next time use rebar ties with loop on both ends, they are much easier to use than regular rebar ties and are much faster, as well maybe look into the cost of un screened sand for your base, it contains 80% sand and 20% crushed stones, it compacts much better then just crushed stones.
CORNERS should have bent pieces that overlap onto the other pieces, 40 times the diameter of the rebar is the standard for overlaps. It's a shed so it will be fine but there is no strength in the corner connections.
Ok vid made a long time ago I get that, but SERIOUSLY DO NOT pound the rebar into the ground. Use your bricks and a short piece of rebar to hold them apart. The rebar is now exposed to moisture in dirt and WILL rust over time. The rust will enter your slab causing expansion and cracks causing issues that could have been avoided. If you isolate your rebar from air and water with the concrete it will do its job and not break your slab apart.
I think the rebar are just guides for measurement . . . but you have a point there whats your idea to prevent the rebar from getting exposed to the ground. but still the slab is anchored . . . .
Chris Doyal your not able to isolate the rebar from air and water. The corrosion process starts from day 1 when the concrete is poured there is not stopping it. Yes you are right you shouldn't put it in the ground but it will rot the concrete no matter what
nice! .......Looks like your half Mexican :P :D you should get a job rebar busting ! "All jokes aside , very clean,tight and right ! I OCD people can do anything they set their minds to :D
Most everything about this work is wrong. You should have bent the horizontal rebars at the corners and overlapped them after they turned min. 2 ft. You should also have used stirrups to contain the 4 horizontal rebars for structural reasons. The vertical rebars you used to keep the horizontal ones in place should not have been driven down to touch the ground because they will rust and eventually transfer the rust to the horizontal rebars (if you had used stirrups, you would not have needed those). Also applying the plastic sheet directly on the crushed stone would be counterproductive because it will be punctured when the slab concrete is poured and will defeat the purpose of having it.
If you use this method but instead u put a stone underneath the rebar that's touching the ground does it still rust? Would it make the slab stronger since the rebar and the ground won't touch?
My wife and I are building a new home in Smyrna.Tn and notice that footer are down but we requested the house be built on a slab. I have never seen footers used on slab construction before. Any information is greatly appreciated.
John Oliveira. Most know reinforcement must have concrete cover. The video shows exposed vertical reinforcement which will initiate corrosion. It's a job, but not an excellent job as you suggest.
Steel over lap should be 32 x the diameter of the bar used, watch the bar clearance from the form work, low MPA concrete isn't waterproof, if reo is too close to the face it will absorb moisture and oxygen and begin to rust, causing concrete cancer. The reo rusts and swells causing the concrete to explode/break.
its almost a piece of art, then it gets covered in concrete! Some scientists and engineers need to work out how much concrete is really required to support these buildings I swear all this concrete and iron is over spec'd. We have 2 story houses in London built on virtually no foundations and they've been around for over 100 years.
Ben, I think codes exist to keep people from being taken by shoddy construction work. I've seen enough episodes of Holmes on Homes to know it happens; either by the people who initially built the house or people who did work on it afterwards. Yes, there are very old buildings still standing both in Europe and almost everywhere else in the world. Doesn't mean we don't need codes now.
Ben I'm curious... what building codes specifically do you disagree with? If I was going to build a house for myself I would make sure that all codes were either met or exceeded by a wide margin (if only for my own safety). Building codes wouldn't hinder me at all. Surely, as you say, if some moron wants to build their own house and it crushes them, there would be no one else to pin the blame on other than himself. But not everyone can build their own house anymore (I'm sure that's part of the Darwinism point you're trying to make, but the simple truth is that our society doesn't require people build their own houses anymore). I think building codes are meant to protect OTHER people from dying or getting injured from someone's work. If you're looking at buying a house, you can't exactly dig out the foundation or cut into the poured walls to see how the contractor built it. People don't always tear down drywall to make sure the proper gauge wire is used throughout the house before it's bought.
Color coded for over a decade, huh? That helps in a house that was built in the '60's with aluminum wiring. But what do I know? I'm just an uneducated... what were those words you called me again? Must be the mark of a true scholar to be able to write that with confidence. Oh, hey! I made a paragraph just for you, too. You're right... I am a troll. Thanks for playing.
Yes, some of those homes still stand. But not many people today would use aluminum wire for their house nowadays... and for good reason. It expands and contracts more than copper, which requires special couplings in order to prevent electrical shorts. Look, this started out as a simple disagreement over why Building Codes exist, and I thought I was being nice about it... but I'm getting bored with this now. Firstly, you mentioned people being "willfully ignorant on how to build something properly," inferring that anyone who wants to learn how to do something can find the proper information to do it correctly. I agree with you on this, and feel that local Building Codes are an excellent source of information for any DYIer trying to build something safely. I still have no idea what you have against them. Secondly, you harp on these buildings that have stood for at least 100 years and are still as strong as the day they were built. I have already agreed with you that these buildings exist... but you forget about all the buildings that don't anymore, and all the tragedy that brought about Building Codes. Events like the Fires of Chicago, New York, and Boston, which burned thousands of buildings and killed hundreds of people. Back then, many buildings had wooden roofs and were built so close together that fires spread quicker than they could be detained. Is this the Darwinism you yearn for? A world where hundreds of people are burned alive every so often due to unsafe building practices? Can't wait for the next Triangle Shirtwaist Fire? I just don't understand what your problem is. Building Codes are not a money grab. They exist to keep people safe. That's it. Oh, and @Kurtscottage nice job on the slab!
Even if someone has no interest in RUclips, or the slightest interest in building any sort of structure....there is something to be taken from this. You’re solo building a garage and high quality videoing/editing the whole experience. DONT BE LAZY!!! Just go do ANHTHING. I hope you are making checks from RUclips. Great work.
Just happened to find your videos. I think they are great. Through your videos I find tips and tricks for making projects easier, and ways to work I never would have thought of. I just subscribed, keep them coming.
Man you think you made the concrete think enough are you planning on parking a d8 bulldozer on it ? I built a 30x30 shop and i work on boats and trucks and I only went 4 inches think and no rebar or wires mesh just added fiber to the concrete and it is still as strong as the day I had it poured and it is 5 years old and I have had some big heavy boats on it and trucks and it still hasn't cracked I did put crushed stone done before that is it .
hey no problem! hit me up if you ever need any rebar help :) if your in southern california and need any rebar placed let me know i could use some work works crappy here lol
Plastic under the slab must be used in order to prevent moisture penetretion from the ground into the slab. Without plastic the structure laid upon the slab will get in time a musty smell and in the case of basements you may see sometimes outright water accumulation on it's surface.
Great job! One thing else apart from some of the other constructive comments. From what I could see, all your rebar that ran parallel to the forms was much too close to the forms. You want at least a 3" gap between the rebar and the form. Anything less weakens the edge because, as any engineer, concrete finisher, etc. will tell you, anything less than 3" in thickness decreases the psi significantly. Otherwise, pretty good job!
Hey guys a factor that alot of you are over looking when you comment about how thick the pad was, is that in Canada and the Northern USA we get frost. this is one reason for the thickness .
I saw this and put rebar into the ground to support it during my pour of a concrete fire pit. Will this be an issue with heave, rusting or anything else? I have only done 3.5", I could remove the rebar if necessary?
Most of them. If you use rebar rods driven to ground to space out from ground your rebar shaped profile, that is ok, however rebar bars cannot end in the corners, that is a recipe for corner fracture
Madness. Wouldn't put my signature on that inspection instruction. Fail until membrane is free of penetrations and or repaired compressively. With minimum concrete cover - Below, edge and top. Make them use heavier hd mesh, two row laps. Plastic chairs not brick or adobes. Actually install L corner bars with 1' 8" laps. Edge beam is good with 4x #4 bar but with 2' 6" laps. But add stirrups @ 4' crs at least. May have missed some other things but that's enough of a moan.
k kint yes, so it is common to lay down closed cell insulating foam (dense blue 2'x8' tongue and grove panels sold at your hardware store) before laying the 6 mil poly (and tape your joints with tuck tape)
I weld all my rebar to avoid all the waste of having so much over lap makes everything more solid. it save a lot of cost in materials and a bit conservation minded.
Rebar should NOT be welded. The uncontrolled heating / cooling causes uneven hardening & stress points in the bar. The welds become weak points that tear out of the otherwise strong bar. If bar is to be welded, an engineer will specify a full procedure, most likely including some type of pre-heating or controlled cooling. If it's DIY and you're just winging it, this is probably ok.. but if you're using engineered drawings for a house or other structure, your structure is now experimental, and the associated engineer is no longer responsible for failures
I think you used too much concrete. It's not going to hurt, but you spent a lot of extra money. 4" thick with well packed base in the center will hold up vehicles just fine. A thickened outer perimeter is a good idea, but a little thick for such a small building.
im a rodbuster so i do this for a living and the only thing i would say is maybe you should have had corner bars top and bottom thats what they mean by continuous and the corner bars are usually the length of the lap you have when you lap two straight bars together and also id say the mesh should have had more lap like at least a square square and a half but other than that not bad for a newbie!
I agree, it was not correct to pound the rebar into the ground. You should have used a 360 wrap and set the rebar cage on metal chairs. When steel rust, it swells and expands and breaks the concrete. The steel pounded into the ground is a moisture wick.
Agreed but idiots like Lenny C don't get it. They argue and say "looks good from my house" and go with it. It's half ass work at best when you drive rebar into the ground.
You failed to read ACI-318 (American Concrete Institute) which is all about rebar and placement thereof and anyone watching this video needs to know it is totally incorrect as to proper placement, and does not meet established code requirements.
Rebar should not make contact with the ground, and rebar that is as rusted as shown here should not be used. This may rust the concrete. Best case scenario, rusted rebar in 40 years not doing its job.
Where are the 2 ft overlaps at the corner, man? Really, you could not afford to rent a bender? Those #3 rebars holding your structure up are going to allow rust to creep and destroy all your rebar footing in a matter of very few years. There are too many issues here, and people are taking this for granted. You should remove this content. It is wrong.
Thanks to you brother. I try to find a cheap perhaps a free way to raise rebar for my project and this its perfect solution. I am building miniramp for skateboard.
Im surprised that they have the typical 2' lap splice on the straight runs of rebar but they don't call out the corners to be either field bent 90°s or prebent pieces laid at the corners.
We heap sand on top of the crashed stones before laying the damp proof membrane to avoid puncture of the membrane.
U did better than most homeowners ever would, sure u drove bar into the ground, didn't bend your corners, but u dis put 4 bar in there around the thickened edge. Our code calls for 2. As a 30 year concrete contractor, I would suggest never using wire mesh, unless in conjunction with a rebar grid. Looks like 6 mil visqueen, good job. This is better than 90% of the so called professionals do
Yep looks pretty good other than not enough bar overlap at the corners. You need to maintain the same required overlap(x times rebar diameter) at every rebar junction so all the corners should have been bent into "L" shaped sections. Surprised the inspector didn't make you change that. Also agree that all the rebar should be inside the concrete. That is why the foundation bolts are usually specced as galvanized. The cage like the mesh is usually just blocked up with the blocks being removed as the pour progresses. It can also be hung by wire loop with the wire pulled out as the pour progresses, or be hung by the foundation bolts held in frames attached to wood brackets nailed to the forms.
you dont have to remove the blocks you can pour them in the concrete
40 rebar diameters is typically the amount of lap required. Also the distance from rebar
to formwork should be 3". This allows more concrete into this area surrounding the steel. Rebar chairs is recommended instead of the brick shown in the video, again, this gets back to the three inches needed for the concrete, surrounding the steel!
thanks for the video!!
3" if cast against dirt, 2" otherwise, bigger concern is 3/8 bar embedded in ground and no corner bars, also, brick should not be used as dobies......
The bars you drove into the ground are now capillary water paths for eventual rust failure.
Thanks for posting.
Quick questions,
- do you remove the rods driven into the ground during concrete pour? I thought Rio is always supposed to have concrete cover to prevent Rio rusting.
You started doing the rebar on the edges first. How did you get the plastic under the rebar?
Continuous overlap means bent 90's at the corners. ;)
Mark so the rebar should be bent at the corners and not tied?
+chvydrptop bend a 4 ft piece into a 90 shape for continuous
good eye...thats right
Yea, common DIY mistake, misunderstanding of the plan. Seen it on many many inspections.
Codes vary, here in FL rebar needs to be 3" away from forms and 3" above footer floor.
structure problem the corners rebar supposed to be L shape
Only thing I see is the vertical bars driven thru the fill, this leaves the bar ends exposed and as the bar rust back and up in to you foundation the expansion from the combining of iron and oxygen will bust open the concrete in time, bar needs to be fully encapsulated to protect it, and the exposed end act as an entry point. just an thought on future project.
We add a plastic vapour barrier and rigid foam insulation below the slab. Your slab is a monolithic slab with footings. A floating slab it taller.
Why not form L joint the rebar on the corner on both side then tie them together?
Hi, nice video. Did you draw plan by yourself ? What kind of program did you use?
In the Bay Area instead of round washers we use 2" or larger square bearing plates. It keeps the sill from splitting during an earthquake as it applies a wider force over the sill.
Yea just like the code says.
BEAUTIFUL WORK. CLEAN , BETTER THAT SOME CALLED PROFESSIONALS. WELL DONE.
Just a suggestion, next time use rebar ties with loop on both ends, they are much easier to use than regular rebar ties and are much faster, as well maybe look into the cost of un screened sand for your base, it contains 80% sand and 20% crushed stones, it compacts much better then just crushed stones.
That's a very good advice !
CORNERS should have bent pieces that overlap onto the other pieces, 40 times the diameter of the rebar is the standard for overlaps. It's a shed so it will be fine but there is no strength in the corner connections.
Ok vid made a long time ago I get that, but SERIOUSLY DO NOT pound the rebar into the ground. Use your bricks and a short piece of rebar to hold them apart. The rebar is now exposed to moisture in dirt and WILL rust over time. The rust will enter your slab causing expansion and cracks causing issues that could have been avoided. If you isolate your rebar from air and water with the concrete it will do its job and not break your slab apart.
I think the rebar are just guides for measurement . . . but you have a point there whats your idea to prevent the rebar from getting exposed to the ground. but still the slab is anchored . . . .
k kint use coated paving rebar
***** no, but it rusts and the rust expands to break the slab apart
Chris is right, metal shall not be exposed !
Chris Doyal your not able to isolate the rebar from air and water. The corrosion process starts from day 1 when the concrete is poured there is not stopping it. Yes you are right you shouldn't put it in the ground but it will rot the concrete no matter what
nice! .......Looks like your half Mexican :P :D you should get a job rebar busting ! "All jokes aside , very clean,tight and right ! I OCD people can do anything they set their minds to :D
I like it.
next time over lap the rebar by 1' on the corners of the building that's the right way to do it
Most everything about this work is wrong. You should have bent the horizontal rebars at the corners and overlapped them after they turned min. 2 ft. You should also have used stirrups to contain the 4 horizontal rebars for structural reasons. The vertical rebars you used to keep the horizontal ones in place should not have been driven down to touch the ground because they will rust and eventually transfer the rust to the horizontal rebars (if you had used stirrups, you would not have needed those). Also applying the plastic sheet directly on the crushed stone would be counterproductive because it will be punctured when the slab concrete is poured and will defeat the purpose of having it.
If you use this method but instead u put a stone underneath the rebar that's touching the ground does it still rust? Would it make the slab stronger since the rebar and the ground won't touch?
hi kurt question whats the purpose of the rock placed under the rebar? for leveling or for the concrete pour to slide in between the rebars?
My wife and I are building a new home in Smyrna.Tn and notice that footer are down but we requested the house be built on a slab. I have never seen footers used on slab construction before. Any information is greatly appreciated.
the overlap depends on the size of the rebar
very good. More thorough and precise than any contractor I know. Awesome job!
Aaaaauugghh ok for someone who dont do it much
you can get rebar chairs at homedepot.
all you armchair engineers, go outside and do your own project and quit giving us your stupid comments...this guy did an excellent job.
John Oliveira. Most know reinforcement must have concrete cover. The video shows exposed vertical reinforcement which will initiate corrosion. It's a job, but not an excellent job as you suggest.
John Oliveira
I am an engineer. No one pounds rebar into the ground.
It's silly and violates code.
thanks for commenting... I thought It was an A job.
You shouldn't have vertical wires in mesh which contacts the soil, since it provides galvanic connection to ground and leads to rusting.
Thank you so much for sharing
Steel over lap should be 32 x the diameter of the bar used, watch the bar clearance from the form work, low MPA concrete isn't waterproof, if reo is too close to the face it will absorb moisture and oxygen and begin to rust, causing concrete cancer. The reo rusts and swells causing the concrete to explode/break.
For 12mm/ half inch bar, corners should be joined with a lig of atleast 400x400mm/16x16 inches.
that looks awesome! can't believe it's DIY, it looks professional.
no it doesn't. not even close.
this was nice, 1 thing I did was bend the rebar for the corners but either way its a nice job
absolutely-well-done
Where did you print off the slab prints?
Did you use two 2x6 on edge for the side foundation walls.??
really helpful video and comments
I’m going to do my first concrete 4x4 foot slab. So no question is a dumb question lol. Why do you put the plastic down?
Moisture barrier to help prevent a damp floor; essential in his case as he's in a slight flood plane.
Concrete is porous and water will wick up through the concrete, so the plastic is a moisture barrier to prevent this from happening.
Looks good from my place
What a great video, thank you for sharing.
Great video !!
its almost a piece of art, then it gets covered in concrete! Some scientists and engineers need to work out how much concrete is really required to support these buildings I swear all this concrete and iron is over spec'd. We have 2 story houses in London built on virtually no foundations and they've been around for over 100 years.
+Cajun Joe seriously? you're going to inject conspiracy theory lunacy into a concrete pad install video? Take it to the Martians on Mars forum please.
Ben, I think codes exist to keep people from being taken by shoddy construction work. I've seen enough episodes of Holmes on Homes to know it happens; either by the people who initially built the house or people who did work on it afterwards. Yes, there are very old buildings still standing both in Europe and almost everywhere else in the world. Doesn't mean we don't need codes now.
Ben I'm curious... what building codes specifically do you disagree with? If I was going to build a house for myself I would make sure that all codes were either met or exceeded by a wide margin (if only for my own safety). Building codes wouldn't hinder me at all. Surely, as you say, if some moron wants to build their own house and it crushes them, there would be no one else to pin the blame on other than himself. But not everyone can build their own house anymore (I'm sure that's part of the Darwinism point you're trying to make, but the simple truth is that our society doesn't require people build their own houses anymore). I think building codes are meant to protect OTHER people from dying or getting injured from someone's work. If you're looking at buying a house, you can't exactly dig out the foundation or cut into the poured walls to see how the contractor built it. People don't always tear down drywall to make sure the proper gauge wire is used throughout the house before it's bought.
Color coded for over a decade, huh? That helps in a house that was built in the '60's with aluminum wiring. But what do I know? I'm just an uneducated... what were those words you called me again?
Must be the mark of a true scholar to be able to write that with confidence. Oh, hey! I made a paragraph just for you, too.
You're right... I am a troll. Thanks for playing.
Yes, some of those homes still stand. But not many people today would use aluminum wire for their house nowadays... and for good reason. It expands and contracts more than copper, which requires special couplings in order to prevent electrical shorts.
Look, this started out as a simple disagreement over why Building Codes exist, and I thought I was being nice about it... but I'm getting bored with this now.
Firstly, you mentioned people being "willfully ignorant on how to build something properly," inferring that anyone who wants to learn how to do something can find the proper information to do it correctly. I agree with you on this, and feel that local Building Codes are an excellent source of information for any DYIer trying to build something safely. I still have no idea what you have against them.
Secondly, you harp on these buildings that have stood for at least 100 years and are still as strong as the day they were built. I have already agreed with you that these buildings exist... but you forget about all the buildings that don't anymore, and all the tragedy that brought about Building Codes.
Events like the Fires of Chicago, New York, and Boston, which burned thousands of buildings and killed hundreds of people. Back then, many buildings had wooden roofs and were built so close together that fires spread quicker than they could be detained.
Is this the Darwinism you yearn for? A world where hundreds of people are burned alive every so often due to unsafe building practices? Can't wait for the next Triangle Shirtwaist Fire? I just don't understand what your problem is.
Building Codes are not a money grab. They exist to keep people safe. That's it.
Oh, and @Kurtscottage nice job on the slab!
Even if someone has no interest in RUclips, or the slightest interest in building any sort of structure....there is something to be taken from this. You’re solo building a garage and high quality videoing/editing the whole experience. DONT BE LAZY!!! Just go do ANHTHING. I hope you are making checks from RUclips. Great work.
Just happened to find your videos. I think they are great.
Through your videos I find tips and tricks for making projects
easier, and ways to work I never would have thought of.
I just subscribed, keep them coming.
Man you think you made the concrete think enough are you planning on parking a d8 bulldozer on it ? I built a 30x30 shop and i work on boats and trucks and I only went 4 inches think and no rebar or wires mesh just added fiber to the concrete and it is still as strong as the day I had it poured and it is 5 years old and I have had some big heavy boats on it and trucks and it still hasn't cracked I did put crushed stone done before that is it .
Do you need to compact the stone before pouring ?
liviu holca
yes you should
D8 would need 10-12",
Junior suite independence of the seas
hey no problem! hit me up if you ever need any rebar help :) if your in southern california and need any rebar placed let me know i could use some work works crappy here lol
Just curious about the use of plastic under the slab?
+liviu holca I meant the plastic sheet on the ground.
Plastic under the slab must be used in order to prevent moisture penetretion from the ground into the slab. Without plastic the structure laid upon the slab will get in time a musty smell and in the case of basements you may see sometimes outright water accumulation on it's surface.
Great job! One thing else apart from some of the other constructive comments. From what I could see, all your rebar that ran parallel to the forms was much too close to the forms. You want at least a 3" gap between the rebar and the form. Anything less weakens the edge because, as any engineer, concrete finisher, etc. will tell you, anything less than 3" in thickness decreases the psi significantly. Otherwise, pretty good job!
Ben A well that certainly wasn’t nice
How deep must the footer be for the pad?
U are pretty good at this stuff as i see :)
Why you put plastic in the ground? Is it required and necesary? What is the purpose for that pls?
Concrete is porous and water will wick up through the concrete, so the plastic is a moisture barrier to prevent this from happening.
Hey guys a factor that alot of you are over looking when you comment about how thick the pad was, is that in Canada and the Northern USA we get frost. this is one reason for the thickness .
Thats pretty freaking sweet great advice.
vertical rebar has no concrete cover and will allow corrosion to enter the slab from below.
I saw this and put rebar into the ground to support it during my pour of a concrete fire pit. Will this be an issue with heave, rusting or anything else? I have only done 3.5", I could remove the rebar if necessary?
what inspector would pass a framed form with rebar in the ground????
Most of them. If you use rebar rods driven to ground to space out from ground your rebar shaped profile, that is ok, however rebar bars cannot end in the corners, that is a recipe for corner fracture
Madness. Wouldn't put my signature on that inspection instruction.
Fail until membrane is free of penetrations and or repaired compressively.
With minimum concrete cover - Below, edge and top. Make them use heavier hd mesh, two row laps. Plastic chairs not brick or adobes. Actually install L corner bars with 1' 8" laps. Edge beam is good with 4x #4 bar but with 2' 6" laps. But add stirrups @ 4' crs at least.
May have missed some other things but that's enough of a moan.
What makes a slab "floating"???
I’m going to go with “Not” anchored
Concrete cover from the ground make it right.
nice job
FYI a hammer can break the brick just as clean as a chisel.
Did he just say, "escavating?" LOL
by the way whats the purpose of the plastic under the mesh?
stops water from wicking up into the slab
without it the garage would be humid
CheekyMonkey888
hi thanks! wont it crack or has tendency to move as little as a mm?
k kint
yes, so it is common to lay down closed cell insulating foam (dense blue 2'x8' tongue and grove panels sold at your hardware store) before laying the 6 mil poly (and tape your joints with tuck tape)
CheekyMonkey888
foam helps retain heating in the slab
Why do you join 2 rebars together on each level?
It is a requirement of the building code. It does give more structural strength to the footing.
you are missing corner bars and the laps on the wire mesh are short
I weld all my rebar to avoid all the waste of having so much over lap makes everything more solid. it save a lot of cost in materials and a bit conservation minded.
Rebar should NOT be welded. The uncontrolled heating / cooling causes uneven hardening & stress points in the bar. The welds become weak points that tear out of the otherwise strong bar. If bar is to be welded, an engineer will specify a full procedure, most likely including some type of pre-heating or controlled cooling. If it's DIY and you're just winging it, this is probably ok.. but if you're using engineered drawings for a house or other structure, your structure is now experimental, and the associated engineer is no longer responsible for failures
Ken Jett please tell me you kidding...
Should have used basalt rebar.
15 mils is a hair thickness... 15 millimeters?
did a better job than my paid contractor did.
No frost?
jki
rebar not to be in contact with ground. that includes not driven into the ground.
I think you used too much concrete. It's not going to hurt, but you spent a lot of extra money. 4" thick with well packed base in the center will hold up vehicles just fine. A thickened outer perimeter is a good idea, but a little thick for such a small building.
atticusbricks He said he was building it due to flooding, not for additional strength.
im a rodbuster so i do this for a living and the only thing i would say is maybe you should have had corner bars top and bottom thats what they mean by continuous and the corner bars are usually the length of the lap you have when you lap two straight bars together and also id say the mesh should have had more lap like at least a square square and a half but other than that not bad for a newbie!
That's not a floating slab. Its a monolithic.
Doesn’t monolithic mean “one poor”? Isn’t it a monolithic floating slab?
I agree, it was not correct to pound the rebar into the ground. You should have used a 360 wrap and set the rebar cage on metal chairs. When steel rust, it swells and expands and breaks the concrete. The steel pounded into the ground is a moisture wick.
CONCRETE IS STABLE UNDER COMPRESEV LOAD NOT SO UNDER TENSILE LOAD
that's terrible, never ever have rebar touching the ground. this guy drove it into the ground lol. stay away from rodbusting
Agreed but idiots like Lenny C don't get it. They argue and say "looks good from my house" and go with it. It's half ass work at best when you drive rebar into the ground.
15mm the big rebar lol
There is a missing subject: The rebars must be painted with rust proof paint. This way it will last almost forever, (including cut ends). May 16, '17.
This is not done correctly. No overlap on corners and many other mistakes.
thats more than 592
23x23=529
I will try to do it with Woodglut plans.
This us painful to watch!!!! A carpenter tying lmao...
You failed to read ACI-318 (American Concrete Institute) which is all about rebar and placement thereof and anyone watching this video needs to know it is totally incorrect as to proper placement, and does not meet established code requirements.
Rebar should not make contact with the ground, and rebar that is as rusted as shown here should not be used. This may rust the concrete. Best case scenario, rusted rebar in 40 years not doing its job.
Where are the 2 ft overlaps at the corner, man? Really, you could not afford to rent a bender?
Those #3 rebars holding your structure up are going to allow rust to creep and destroy all your rebar footing in a matter of very few years.
There are too many issues here, and people are taking this for granted. You should remove this content. It is wrong.