Hi, Despite the fact i'm English, I live in West Africa... I am quite shocked that when you live in Hurricane zones (recent Dorian) , people continue to build with frames and wood !!! .. Unfortunately if people would adopt buildings with cement BLOCK's and like here Flat terrace roofs (which is great for solar) , you would have to learn a new trade !! BUT building would resist even Cat.5's and insurance would be cheaper etc etc.... I live in Dakar , Senegal and EVERY building big or small is done with hollow 40 x 20cm cement blocks .. Which is MUCH more solid than wood structures.. (Remember the 3 little piggy's) ... I LOVE your videos and have been "eating" them up for a while ! Your precision is really remarkable and i bow my head to you ... Keep up the good work ...... David
The Info Team there aren’t hurricanes in Illinois where Kyle is located. There are building codes for coastal areas where hurricanes impact that must be met. Pretty much everything in the US that is built within a city must be built in accordance with the IBC as well as local engineering specs for foundations and the structure. Most of Kyle’s buildings don’t have to be built to code due to the location (rural county areas outside of a city), but I’m willing to bet that some of his foundations and structures are engineered.
@@bittnerbs Yes I understand that.. But still , zones where they do occur, it would be safer and save lives. I was in California 2 years back and in NY a year ago .. MAN your regulations are SO complicated , you basically need a lawyer just to buy a sandwich.. Where is the "Land of the Free" ????
The Info Team come to Texas. NY and Cali are the land of the lawsuit. Look how crazy expensive it is to live there. It’s insane. All of the contractors are union and everything takes 5 times as long to build. In Texas, we get shit done.
@S B Hey don't you live in "The land of the Free" ?? I'm a retired Telecoms Engineer , in the last 40 years I have been offered at least 10-15 Jobs in the USA .. No thanks .. Do you know that with $2000 a month you can live like a king over here !! And I have all I need .. Even made Pizza this evening ..... Good Luck guys ... and GOD BLESS AMERICA !!
Recently I think people are finally shaking the rocks out of their heads and building with ICF concrete forms vs wood framing. ICF's are even better than stacked cinder blocks(CMU's) filled with concrete as ICF's have a solid poured concrete core between the two insulating foam forms. The solid concrete core provides the most protection from hurricanes, tornados, wildfires, floods, etc. The core is also large thermal mass to help keep heating and cooling costs low. ICF manufactures have floor and roof form too so a concrete roof can be built and all the rebar from the foundation, to the walls, to the roof is all tied together so it is like a bomb shelter. ICF's really are a fantastic system for building strong, energy efficient buildings that will last generations
I am fully impressed! It’s just a complete ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 plan with the best resources and step by step instructions . These shed plans are so satisfying as if the sheds build themselves on their own. Worthy work Ryan!
Bell augers have their place for deep holes, but not for something like your demonstration where you would need to buy two expensive attachments. There is a product called BigFoot Systems BigFoot Concrete forms, they are inexpensive plastic bell shaped concrete forms that are available in 4 bell sizes from 21.5" - 36" in diameter suitable for residential and commercial building. The top of the form is graduated for multiple different sizes of sonotubes, screws are used to attach the sonotube to the top of the bell. So all you need to do is auger a straight hole and drop in an assembled bell form/sonotube, back fill the hole and fill with concrete. If required by engineering a cylindrical or bell shaped rebar cage could be put in the hole first and then the assembled bell form/sonotube slips over the top. Using the Bigfoot forms save time in having to bell out footing holes and thus saves money.
Was doing the foundations on our retaining wall next to a sea water canal home. As you can imagine the water table is quite close to the surface. Was all in sand too. Deep footings and then bored piers below that. Bottom of hole auto belled out from the collapsing sand. Ah well, better footprint so the foundation is less likely to sink. Combine that with a 6 foot wide footing and the wall should stay up. ;)
I am not a builder, but from what I understand, that bell shape is also good if if it's in the frost line to keep the pier at the same place, instead of having frozen soil lift it up and then not set it back properly.
Yes, belling the bottom does several things which are useful. 1. You can auger an 18" hole, but make the actual footing much wider to support much more weight. Just a pain/impossible to do well by hand. 2. Getting that bell -below- the frost line is as close to a guarantee that you won't be getting any frost heaving. 3. When you get that bell shape, you are getting much, much greater support at the footer/column intersection. If you have earthquakes, or lateral movement, that belled angle is going to take a lot more to break than a simple sono tube on top of a footing. Probably better than the bigfoot forms.
I've done a lot of digging in Illinois clay with an auger the best way to get to clay not to stick! get yourself some really cheap vegetable oil and a little sprayer hit the auger every two or three holes real quick with vegetable oil that's sticky clay slides right off doesn't hurt the environment
How is that impractical. Takes 30 seconds to spray it with a pump sprayer and save you tons of time not having to shake the crap out of the machine (which causes more ware) every time you pull it out to get the dirt off.
This is not at all impractical! It’s smart! And it works! I have used cheap Walmart tire shine in the past for the same application! Don’t knock it till you try it.
Man that is a super sweet auger. Wish we could use it in our climate. Up here (North East British Columbia) we have to go down 14ft with our piles to combat the frost jacking lol. Ground moves like crazy.
Interesting I was a welders helper for a little while as a kid. The old man I helped built bell drills with huge plate, a forklift a rosebud and lots of gas. Then I got to work under those leaking cylinder SOB's used it as suntan oil. Coastal Texas ;-) Weber Drilling
Cool auger idea it seems. Won't really know the full effect until you are on a job with 24 holes to bore out and only a few hours to do it. Your equipment would benefit with a covered barn or shed to give them the advantage from the elements especially if you want your fleet to be in good shape after hard maintenance standards. No one wants the weather to rot their equipment if they can avoid it. Plus, you have the room it seems ! Maybe some engineer would shed some input on the limits this device can produce for concrete piers. Building codes are a guide but never a final confirmation in the engineered outcome you might want for a job/customer. Thanks for sharing.
we have lots and lots of sheds on the farm the problem is the equipment stays in the field more than it does at home... Im sure he has that same issue with his stuff... its always on the job... fortunately he builds buildings so as soon as the roof goes on he has a shed... lol
I would like to see you go back to 4-5 jobs you finished in past and show just what the customers are using it for. That would give me a better Idea of just how big I need to go.
Wow, I've have seen hundreds of those, all home made. This is the first manufactured belling bit I've seen. $4,000,, I can see way there home made now.
@@psidvicious I don't think it will take much time at all to see 100% return on investment. If most of your jobs only need an 18" footing, then yeah, not as useful. An 18" pier on unknown soil (1500psf) will only bear like 1900#. Most people forget to figure out the CF of concrete the pier is made from and subtract that from the theoretical bearing... If you are general augering piers, then this type of product is a no brainer. Instead of needing multiple auger bits, you can standardize on a couple, and still provide 8-10 footing sizes. Newest guy on any crew seems to be getting 30-40/hr, so all that extra work removing, backfilling unnecessary dirt, unnecessary concrete and up in time and money. An 18" footed pier is useless for everything but the smaller decks, and such. Anything of any size is going to need 24"+ piers, unless you want to do 2x the number of smaller piers. Being able to not only bell out the shaft, but clean a lot of it in minutes is whats going to make someone more competitve and able to offer their services cheaper than you. Pay it off in no time, and laugh all the way to the bank.
Obviously, several of your videos show digging holes and setting sonotubes, my question is, you typically use half a tube, so not full depth. Of course, checking plumb and height, and some back filling around tubes; but how do you keep tubes from shifting once concrete is poured in? That process along can knock tubes out of whack. I guess, i have observed you guys re checking each tube, or correcting any movement. Shall i assume you occasionally do?
Steven Johnson I think you’re right. I drill 30” and 36” auger footers in central Florida and the weak soils and high water table create a natural bell at the bottom of my holes all the time due to weak soils.
Great video. I remember when you were at the show asking about it. At the time I didn’t understand why you need that. In California we can’t do that. Thank Greg for filming. Any update on the new Milwaukee 7-1/4?
i remember a video you did where you had to pull one out.. so you showed how strong the bracket that you uses for the posts and pulled it out by the that... i say you do round 2 of that test... 4' hole with a 36" bottom.... i don't think it will go as well as the first time... i doubt the concrete will let go of the rebar but that bracket will get mangled up to hell and back from pulling on it... lol
After getting a little overpacked in the second trial I counted your revolutions on the third one and you did 6 revolutions. You did that right after reading to us that 1 to 3 revolutions is what the instructions say.
I'm sure you remember from when you were at Diresta's barn... you can't take out a teaspoon of dirt in NY without getting a bucket load of rock or hitting ledge!
What kind of Duct Tape did you use on Greg when he was operating the camera? Greg, the Silent Bob of Cameramen.... Good work on the camera! LOL Cheers from Tokyo
Here is the best image i can find to show what the bell form looks like in the hole: www.homedepot.com/p/Bigfoot-24-in-Pier-Footing-Form-489-24-BF/300325011
Funny, I asked a while back if you had anyone you recommend in my area and I ended up using Joe and the guys from Jess tool (their other side concrete pier systems). They did a great job.
We have to dig 60" deep holes for frost footings. Can you dig a 60" deep hole, than use the bell and see if you can read diameter gauge at that depth. I comented on the trade show video but never heard from company. Thanks for all your great video content. If it works on 60"deep i will buy one
Would have been nice to know about as where I am we had to use belled bottoms. We use a bell base which tapers to a thinner tube on top; once inspected we backfill prior to pouring. If we were allowed to use this it would speed up time.
Thanks for the videos! Great content for my sons and I to enjoy together. Could you make a video highlighting how you would miter Rake trim to High side Trim?
I think it would be an excellent upgrade if they added a hydraulic cylinder to close it with Force instead of relying on gravity and weight. Not enough especially with some soil types
You missed part of the beauty of this thing. You can dig a 12" pier bell it out to 24 inches and use less cement than your 18" hole, but have more uplift and bearing strength... you could probably do a 9" hole, bell it to 18", drop a bit of rebar in it and still have a better pier than your 18" hole at lower cost in time and materials...
So an 18" footing supports 2,650 pounds. A 36" is 10, 600 pounds. If it is just a roof, 20 dead 45 live is 65 pounds per square foot of roof. If drilled on 8 foot centers, it is rated for a 40 foot truss. For most jobs that bell auger would be all that you need.
Actuallly, an 18" pier with a foot 18" x 12" and a sono tube 10" x 60" takes 5.5 cubic foot of concrete, ~750#. So gross bearing 2650 - 750 yields a max bearing of 1900# on standard unknown soil type. Agree, that bell-end turns that 18" auger into a 20, 22, 24, 36" auger.
Hi, Despite the fact i'm English, I live in West Africa... I am quite shocked that when you live in Hurricane zones (recent Dorian) , people continue to build with frames and wood !!! .. Unfortunately if people would adopt buildings with cement BLOCK's and like here Flat terrace roofs (which is great for solar) , you would have to learn a new trade !! BUT building would resist even Cat.5's and insurance would be cheaper etc etc.... I live in Dakar , Senegal and EVERY building big or small is done with hollow 40 x 20cm cement blocks .. Which is MUCH more solid than wood structures.. (Remember the 3 little piggy's) ... I LOVE your videos and have been "eating" them up for a while ! Your precision is really remarkable and i bow my head to you ... Keep up the good work ...... David
The Info Team there aren’t hurricanes in Illinois where Kyle is located. There are building codes for coastal areas where hurricanes impact that must be met. Pretty much everything in the US that is built within a city must be built in accordance with the IBC as well as local engineering specs for foundations and the structure.
Most of Kyle’s buildings don’t have to be built to code due to the location (rural county areas outside of a city), but I’m willing to bet that some of his foundations and structures are engineered.
@@bittnerbs Yes I understand that.. But still , zones where they do occur, it would be safer and save lives. I was in California 2 years back and in NY a year ago .. MAN your regulations are SO complicated , you basically need a lawyer just to buy a sandwich.. Where is the "Land of the Free" ????
The Info Team come to Texas. NY and Cali are the land of the lawsuit. Look how crazy expensive it is to live there. It’s insane. All of the contractors are union and everything takes 5 times as long to build. In Texas, we get shit done.
@S B Hey don't you live in "The land of the Free" ?? I'm a retired Telecoms Engineer , in the last 40 years I have been offered at least 10-15 Jobs in the USA .. No thanks .. Do you know that with $2000 a month you can live like a king over here !! And I have all I need .. Even made Pizza this evening ..... Good Luck guys ... and GOD BLESS AMERICA !!
Recently I think people are finally shaking the rocks out of their heads and building with ICF concrete forms vs wood framing. ICF's are even better than stacked cinder blocks(CMU's) filled with concrete as ICF's have a solid poured concrete core between the two insulating foam forms. The solid concrete core provides the most protection from hurricanes, tornados, wildfires, floods, etc. The core is also large thermal mass to help keep heating and cooling costs low. ICF manufactures have floor and roof form too so a concrete roof can be built and all the rebar from the foundation, to the walls, to the roof is all tied together so it is like a bomb shelter. ICF's really are a fantastic system for building strong, energy efficient buildings that will last generations
I am fully impressed! It’s just a complete ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 plan with the best resources and step by step instructions . These shed plans are so satisfying as if the sheds build themselves on their own. Worthy work Ryan!
Bell augers have their place for deep holes, but not for something like your demonstration where you would need to buy two expensive attachments. There is a product called BigFoot Systems BigFoot Concrete forms, they are inexpensive plastic bell shaped concrete forms that are available in 4 bell sizes from 21.5" - 36" in diameter suitable for residential and commercial building. The top of the form is graduated for multiple different sizes of sonotubes, screws are used to attach the sonotube to the top of the bell. So all you need to do is auger a straight hole and drop in an assembled bell form/sonotube, back fill the hole and fill with concrete. If required by engineering a cylindrical or bell shaped rebar cage could be put in the hole first and then the assembled bell form/sonotube slips over the top. Using the Bigfoot forms save time in having to bell out footing holes and thus saves money.
Excellent video.....thank you ....will be able to put what you have taught me to good use.
Was doing the foundations on our retaining wall next to a sea water canal home. As you can imagine the water table is quite close to the surface. Was all in sand too. Deep footings and then bored piers below that. Bottom of hole auto belled out from the collapsing sand. Ah well, better footprint so the foundation is less likely to sink. Combine that with a 6 foot wide footing and the wall should stay up. ;)
I am not a builder, but from what I understand, that bell shape is also good if if it's in the frost line to keep the pier at the same place, instead of having frozen soil lift it up and then not set it back properly.
Dogbert depends if it’s lowest then the frost line
Yes, belling the bottom does several things which are useful.
1. You can auger an 18" hole, but make the actual footing much wider to support much more weight. Just a pain/impossible to do well by hand.
2. Getting that bell -below- the frost line is as close to a guarantee that you won't be getting any frost heaving.
3. When you get that bell shape, you are getting much, much greater support at the footer/column intersection. If you have earthquakes, or lateral movement, that belled angle is going to take a lot more to break than a simple sono tube on top of a footing. Probably better than the bigfoot forms.
Kyle I think of you just push the Bell Auburn on flat ground and push it down it will unclog it
I think you will need to make multiple spread out mounds of dirt, instead of ending up with a volcano of dirt?
Well said. Thumbs up. And great backyard storage
I've done a lot of digging in Illinois clay with an auger the best way to get to clay not to stick! get yourself some really cheap vegetable oil and a little sprayer hit the auger every two or three holes real quick with vegetable oil that's sticky clay slides right off doesn't hurt the environment
How is that impractical. Takes 30 seconds to spray it with a pump sprayer and save you tons of time not having to shake the crap out of the machine (which causes more ware) every time you pull it out to get the dirt off.
This is not at all impractical! It’s smart! And it works! I have used cheap Walmart tire shine in the past for the same application! Don’t knock it till you try it.
Wow totally new tool for me, I really need to update all my equipment soon .! Thanks for the video, bro.!!!
Thanks again for sharing your info on the bell Auger Nate product👍
Good counter to frost heave situations.
great video. thanks for the demo.
Rest the auger on the ground to open up the cutters and “spin” without pressing down to clean out the spoils. Should work. Nice design!
good idea
Man that is a super sweet auger. Wish we could use it in our climate. Up here (North East British Columbia) we have to go down 14ft with our piles to combat the frost jacking lol. Ground moves like crazy.
You can. The owner of Jess tools says 14' is the deepest he has done with it.
Interesting I was a welders helper for a little while as a kid. The old man I helped built bell drills with huge plate, a forklift a rosebud and lots of gas. Then I got to work under those leaking cylinder SOB's used it as suntan oil. Coastal Texas ;-) Weber Drilling
Cool auger idea it seems. Won't really know the full effect until you are on a job with 24 holes to bore out and only a few hours to do it.
Your equipment would benefit with a covered barn or shed to give them the advantage from the elements especially if you want your fleet to be in good shape after hard maintenance standards. No one wants the weather to rot their equipment if they can avoid it. Plus, you have the room it seems !
Maybe some engineer would shed some input on the limits this device can produce for concrete piers. Building codes are a guide but never a final confirmation in the engineered outcome you might want for a job/customer. Thanks for sharing.
we have lots and lots of sheds on the farm the problem is the equipment stays in the field more than it does at home... Im sure he has that same issue with his stuff... its always on the job... fortunately he builds buildings so as soon as the roof goes on he has a shed... lol
Very true
I really respect you being honest about them sending the auger and stuff. Most people try to hide that and shit. I respect being 100% honest.
That is freeking cool!
I would like to see you go back to 4-5 jobs you finished in past and show just what the customers are using it for. That would give me a better Idea of just how big I need to go.
it is a perfect idea
You’re the best 💪🏻
Yes. Finally. The video I’ve been begging you for. Looks like a game changer.
Greg could have lifted that. J/k great video
I was going to say that exact same thing, but great minds think alike and you beat me too it.
wow that thing is GREAT
hope you use it on the build you have coming upend tell us how you like it.it looks great
Hey, helpful, thank you!
Great review as always 👊👊
Wow, I've have seen hundreds of those, all home made. This is the first manufactured belling bit I've seen. $4,000,, I can see way there home made now.
Yep, it’s gonna take awhile to save $4000 worth of concrete by using this.
🤜🤛
@@psidvicious I don't think it will take much time at all to see 100% return on investment.
If most of your jobs only need an 18" footing, then yeah, not as useful.
An 18" pier on unknown soil (1500psf) will only bear like 1900#. Most people forget to figure out the CF of concrete the pier is made from and subtract that from the theoretical bearing...
If you are general augering piers, then this type of product is a no brainer.
Instead of needing multiple auger bits, you can standardize on a couple, and still provide 8-10 footing sizes.
Newest guy on any crew seems to be getting 30-40/hr, so all that extra work removing, backfilling unnecessary dirt, unnecessary concrete and up in time and money. An 18" footed pier is useless for everything but the smaller decks, and such. Anything of any size is going to need 24"+ piers, unless you want to do 2x the number of smaller piers.
Being able to not only bell out the shaft, but clean a lot of it in minutes is whats going to make someone more competitve and able to offer their services cheaper than you. Pay it off in no time, and laugh all the way to the bank.
Obviously, several of your videos show digging holes and setting sonotubes, my question is, you typically use half a tube, so not full depth. Of course, checking plumb and height, and some back filling around tubes; but how do you keep tubes from shifting once concrete is poured in? That process along can knock tubes out of whack. I guess, i have observed you guys re checking each tube, or correcting any movement. Shall i assume you occasionally do?
Reckon it wouldn't work to well in sand... But works well in the clay... Thanx for the share
Steven Johnson I think you’re right. I drill 30” and 36” auger footers in central Florida and the weak soils and high water table create a natural bell at the bottom of my holes all the time due to weak soils.
Posthole digger.... the manual tool you describe 😳
If you push lightly down and spin on top of the ground , you will empty the dirt out of the auger. Just a quick tip.
SCOTTA1 before I commented I wanted to see if anyone else thought of the same. As you did. I didn't know why he didn't open the jaws up and shake it.
I remember that video about the convention. 👍👍
Who else started shaking the phone to shake the dirt off his auger. 😂😂😂
Haha
Best comment ever
Great video. I remember when you were at the show asking about it. At the time I didn’t understand why you need that. In California we can’t do that. Thank Greg for filming.
Any update on the new Milwaukee 7-1/4?
Milwaukee is doing great
Bad ass tool,Bet if you spray the bell with diesel ,That soil would not stick so much.
i remember a video you did where you had to pull one out.. so you showed how strong the bracket that you uses for the posts and pulled it out by the that... i say you do round 2 of that test... 4' hole with a 36" bottom.... i don't think it will go as well as the first time... i doubt the concrete will let go of the rebar but that bracket will get mangled up to hell and back from pulling on it... lol
I should
After getting a little overpacked in the second trial I counted your revolutions on the third one and you did 6 revolutions. You did that right after reading to us that 1 to 3 revolutions is what the instructions say.
haha i totally saw that, but as I am doing it and talking, it happened so quick....do as I say not as I do i guess lol. It's my first time too
Enjoyable viewing over breakfast, here in Scotland
I'm sure you remember from when you were at Diresta's barn... you can't take out a teaspoon of dirt in NY without getting a bucket load of rock or hitting ledge!
Yup yup it sucks lol
Call before you dig! Safety first. Lol
always a good idea
What kind of Duct Tape did you use on Greg when he was operating the camera?
Greg, the Silent Bob of Cameramen.... Good work on the camera!
LOL
Cheers from Tokyo
So you basically get an elephant footprint. Nice!
Great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
Most of us call your crummer a post hole digger;o)
I would love to use this but the rocks we have would destroy it in short order. Thanks for the demonstration.
I can see it but for those who could not see it ,, It would of helped a lot if you drew a picture of what the hole looks like from top to bottom..
Here is the best image i can find to show what the bell form looks like in the hole:
www.homedepot.com/p/Bigfoot-24-in-Pier-Footing-Form-489-24-BF/300325011
Hell of a tool.
Awesome vids. I'm curious if my steel trusse pole barn 6x6 style metal building is stronger and cheaper than this style
Maybe I missed Kyle saying this, but this bell auger would be used for a footing base larger than the sonotube. Like a 24" or so
Funny, I asked a while back if you had anyone you recommend in my area and I ended up using Joe and the guys from Jess tool (their other side concrete pier systems). They did a great job.
that's awesome to hear!!
Great tool!
Thank you!
This is neat great video
Sounds like a good rental tool.
Funny that thing has been on my mind since you went to that show. Pretty cool!
it's pretty cool. Sorry it took so long
Great video man! That's an awesome tool to have. Definitely makes sense. What camera and microphone are you using? Sounds pretty good
We have to dig 60" deep holes for frost footings.
Can you dig a 60" deep hole, than use the bell and see if you can read diameter gauge at that depth. I comented on the trade show video but never heard from company.
Thanks for all your great video content.
If it works on 60"deep i will buy one
Why 60 inch, and where at?
There are gauge extensions for them and yes they have been used 16 feet in the ground in Texas.
Shouldn’t be an issue
Code for northern mn.
Thanks for info.
Also will help with the “up lift” factor of the type of construction your doing.
GOING TOO !
Very nice
Have a small piece of RR tie around, press down on that, and it will empty like a champ
7:43 - if you ever have an issue lining up a different tool, just put some hair around the hole and it will line up immediately
some machines you can twist the hydraulic motor by hand too.
Would have been nice to know about as where I am we had to use belled bottoms. We use a bell base which tapers to a thinner tube on top; once inspected we backfill prior to pouring. If we were allowed to use this it would speed up time.
Well, that's handy !
a bell auger makes so much sense
Great tool! Love the show's, keep them coming. 👍
its perfect... i have to have one...
Talk to the guys at Jess tools and tell them you saw it over here. They will appreciate that
Would you ever try helical piers for your building footers instead of concrete piers?
I’ve wanted too
@@RRBuildings In east New jersey if they want the structure on solid foundation they drive piles to bed rock then build the piers on the steel piles.
That is an amazing tool for your toolbox.
You got it nice bro .... I know looking at it how about that metal roof trailer you buy that yet?
Haha
In the UK they are called Spoons
Thanks for the videos! Great content for my sons and I to enjoy together. Could you make a video highlighting how you would miter Rake trim to High side Trim?
I think it would be an excellent upgrade if they added a hydraulic cylinder to close it with Force instead of relying on gravity and weight. Not enough especially with some soil types
I dont know why im watching this, I used to do inspections on piers in houston that always required belling.
Me either, I was drilling the holes you inspected ;-)
You missed part of the beauty of this thing. You can dig a 12" pier bell it out to 24 inches and use less cement than your 18" hole, but have more uplift and bearing strength... you could probably do a 9" hole, bell it to 18", drop a bit of rebar in it and still have a better pier than your 18" hole at lower cost in time and materials...
Thats where i was confused. How do you dig without it belling. You have to have a hole first. Hydraulic actuators will be the key.
How would you suspend the sonotube so the concrete fills the bell at the bottom? Also that auger is looking a little rusty mate
Grt. Thx
Greg seams a little creepy... you can’t trust a cameraman that never talks. Jk good vid.
Nice! Is it water or hydraulic oil dripping at 5:55?
Water... didn’t you hear I said in the video we were rained out everything was wet
No Im sorry I didnt catch that. Nice, as in nice video! Thought I should mention it, because that is expensive machinery..
It's called a post hole digger!!
No it’s not... it doesn’t dig holes just opens them up at the bottom
Pressure washer gets that sticky clay.
Don't want to hurt your feelings
But 40 years age we had belling buckets...
At least for drill rigs
Drillseargant king of the fields drill them hihg drill them low
Why is a 3 minute video 15 minutes long?
Where do you get the 18 Inch auger
Jesstools.com
@@RandalWeidenaar thank you!! We are gonna buy one of this they look great
I wish it was that easy here in n.y literally can sink a shovel without hitting a boulder
i hear that!!
It is called Post hole shovel
So an 18" footing supports 2,650 pounds. A 36" is 10, 600 pounds. If it is just a roof, 20 dead 45 live is 65 pounds per square foot of roof. If drilled on 8 foot centers, it is rated for a 40 foot truss. For most jobs that bell auger would be all that you need.
Actuallly, an 18" pier with a foot 18" x 12" and a sono tube 10" x 60" takes 5.5 cubic foot of concrete, ~750#. So gross bearing 2650 - 750 yields a max bearing of 1900# on standard unknown soil type. Agree, that bell-end turns that 18" auger into a 20, 22, 24, 36" auger.
I want to know what kind of skid steer is that? Electric? Quiet as heck.
Do you use rebar for your pier?
If only it would dig an 18 inch hole. And then bell...one tool.
Wish a tool like this could be used in our soil..... our rocks would destroy it
Won’t work here either. All sand.
🤜🤛
That would be great on an open front building where you need to fight against winds trying to lift the building.
Number 1
7:35 This part.
When you dig a flared hole, do you hold the sonotube a certain height over the bottom of the hole so the base of the footer fills the hole?
7:39 you know he has kids.
It looks like it has a spade on the bottom maby stick that in the ground a counter rotate to clean auger
why dont you use techno metal post helical piles for a foundation?
helical piles would have done that job so much faster and with techno metal post engineer stamp of approval makes everything easy