Hello to all the Illinois BMW Riders Club members, I live in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Three months ago I bought a 2001 model K1200LT, which use to belong to a retired military general which he had for fun, the bike has less than 10,000 miles on and it’s in impeccable condition. I’ve watched all your do it yourself videos, and must admit, I love them all. They have encouraged me to work on the bike myself and I have. Since then I’ve stripped the bike down and rebuilt it again in 2 weeks.
The grub screw deforms because it's threaded in with factory LockTite.Roll back the boot, wrap it with a thick wet rag and heat the grub screw with a heat gun. It will come out.Watch the area where the heat disperses so you don't ruin components> Then just depress the detent ball while the clutch lever is depressed; keep the reservoir filled . .when you get clean fluid out you're done.
Hi Kirk - love your Illinois Club videos. May I point out that the item you remove at six minutes into the video and then replace on the end of the slave bleeder hose is a once-only-use item used at the factory on original assembly, to permit the assembler to whack DOT4 into the bikes from the bottom upwards. Time & Motion guys advised designing the "Werkstück" - factory chunk - to save valuable minutes of time during assembly of each bike. After that use, the item is of no further practical use. I speak from personal experience as a bi-lingual visitor to the works 10 years ago. Remove the Werkstück, using careful heat because it was Loctited at the factory, and replace the item with a modern Goodridge Speedbleeder, so that future essential clutch fluid replacement jobs are a one-man, one-handed cinch.
It is Dot 3 on mine. I frequently use Valvoline Dot 3+4. The two are pretty interchangable. 4 has a bit higher dry and wet boiling point and is a little more resistant to the moisture that seeps in due to the added borate esters. I think if I had a servo pump I would use 4 as recommended.
I had to order few plastic parts because a 12 year old plastic has to damage at some point, keep in mind it’s an extremely hot and humid country. However, your videos helped me achieve my task, and am thankful to all your work and contribution to make it easy for us. Greetings from Dubai Illinois BMW Riders Club. p.s remember, am watching you.
Part-2 • Release the breather hose for the clutch fluid at the right-hand skirt bracket. • Remove the protective hose from the filling adapter. • Remove socket-head grub screw from the filling adapter. • Install bleed screw in filling adapter. • Connect the brake bleeding device to the bleed screw. • Open the bleed screw a half turn. -In short his video is better then the book.... Who can follow all them steps... in part 1 & 2 You made it look easy
My hex screw came out of the bleeder tube without too much issue, but I had a heck of a time getting the ball to release into the spring. I soaked it with ATF/acetone mix for about 10 mins and then, with enough force, it released and started behaving as expected. It must have been rusted on there or something.
Part-1 • Remove the top and bottom left-hand handlebar covers. • Remove the combination switch and radio remote control. • Place the handlebars in full right-hand lock • Loosen the clamping screw. • Turn the brake fluid reservoir so that the sealing surface of the reservoir cap is horizontal when viewed from the side. • Tighten the clamping screw. • Remove the reservoir cap together with the diaphragm • Add brake fluid up to the MAX mark.
The screws are not a problem if you use the correct screw driver. The bit you need is a JIS bit or driver. They are with rare exception Japanese Industry Standard
Just knowing you are watching me makes me nervous! :-) Just kidding. That is awesome that you found such a great bike in Dubai and these videos have helped you!
@@pitg1318 sometimes an air bubble can get trapped just behind the bleeder detent ball. Take the screw out and depress the ball with a small phillips screwdriver while pointing it up to let the air out.
Hello to all the Illinois BMW Riders Club members, I live in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Three months ago I bought a 2001 model K1200LT, which use to belong to a retired military general which he had for fun, the bike has less than 10,000 miles on and it’s in impeccable condition. I’ve watched all your do it yourself videos, and must admit, I love them all. They have encouraged me to work on the bike myself and I have. Since then I’ve stripped the bike down and rebuilt it again in 2 weeks.
The grub screw deforms because it's threaded in with factory LockTite.Roll back the boot, wrap it with a thick wet rag and heat the grub screw with a heat gun. It will come out.Watch the area where the heat disperses so you don't ruin components>
Then just depress the detent ball while the clutch lever is depressed; keep the reservoir filled . .when you get clean fluid out you're done.
Hi Kirk - love your Illinois Club videos. May I point out that the item you remove at six minutes into the video and then replace on the end of the slave bleeder hose is a once-only-use item used at the factory on original assembly, to permit the assembler to whack DOT4 into the bikes from the bottom upwards. Time & Motion guys advised designing the "Werkstück" - factory chunk - to save valuable minutes of time during assembly of each bike. After that use, the item is of no further practical use. I speak from personal experience as a bi-lingual visitor to the works 10 years ago. Remove the Werkstück, using careful heat because it was Loctited at the factory, and replace the item with a modern Goodridge Speedbleeder, so that future essential clutch fluid replacement jobs are a one-man, one-handed cinch.
It is Dot 3 on mine. I frequently use Valvoline Dot 3+4. The two are pretty interchangable. 4 has a bit higher dry and wet boiling point and is a little more resistant to the moisture that seeps in due to the added borate esters. I think if I had a servo pump I would use 4 as recommended.
I had to order few plastic parts because a 12 year old plastic has to damage at some point, keep in mind it’s an extremely hot and humid country. However, your videos helped me achieve my task, and am thankful to all your work and contribution to make it easy for us. Greetings from Dubai Illinois BMW Riders Club.
p.s remember, am watching you.
Part-2
• Release the breather hose for the clutch fluid at
the right-hand skirt bracket.
• Remove the protective hose from the filling
adapter.
• Remove socket-head grub screw from
the filling adapter.
• Install bleed screw in filling adapter.
• Connect the brake bleeding device to the bleed
screw.
• Open the bleed screw a half turn.
-In short his video is better then the book.... Who can follow all them steps... in part 1 & 2
You made it look easy
My hex screw came out of the bleeder tube without too much issue, but I had a heck of a time getting the ball to release into the spring. I soaked it with ATF/acetone mix for about 10 mins and then, with enough force, it released and started behaving as expected. It must have been rusted on there or something.
Just did this service the other day and found out that a SB1010S SpeedBleeder will work in place of the ventilation screw (K1200GT '04).
Part-1
• Remove the top and bottom left-hand handlebar
covers.
• Remove the combination switch and radio remote
control.
• Place the handlebars in full right-hand lock
• Loosen the clamping screw.
• Turn the brake fluid reservoir so that the sealing
surface of the reservoir cap is horizontal when
viewed from the side.
• Tighten the clamping screw.
• Remove the reservoir cap together with the diaphragm
• Add brake fluid up to the MAX mark.
The screws are not a problem if you use the correct screw driver. The bit you need is a JIS bit or driver. They are with rare exception Japanese Industry Standard
Based on your recommendation I picked up a JIS screwdriver! Thanks
I never knew about them until I started restoring Gold Wings. Now its my go to screwdriver
VERY GOOD FRIENDS DIAS, AM VENEZUELAN AND HAVE A BMW K1200 LT YEAR 1999 TO OIL SHOULD I USE TO MAINTAIN THE CLUTCH. MANY THANKS
Thanks for the video, just about to change mine. What's the general capacity of the DOT 4 fluid needed? Less or more than 500ml? Thanks.
The clutch will take less than 500 for sure
Just knowing you are watching me makes me nervous! :-) Just kidding. That is awesome that you found such a great bike in Dubai and these videos have helped you!
Very helpful. Thank you!
Do you do any videos on the K1200rs?
May I ask the name of the oil unloading tool at 5:35 in the video? Thank you!
Its just a couple of open end wrenches. 12-13mm
@@kirksmotorrad Thank you, I thought I used a special tool
(google translation)
Was that DOT 4? or DOT 3 brake fluid?
I know they say Dot 4 should be used on the K-bike.
I don't think he's ever going to respond.
and when doing that procedure all the air goes away? Because im having problems w that. Have a gsr1150 w the same system
Yes it should. Make sure you tap the brake lever a little to get any air out of there
illinoisBMWriders thank you. Is my clutch losses the pression. But i will do it again. My respect from Mexico.
@@pitg1318 sometimes an air bubble can get trapped just behind the bleeder detent ball. Take the screw out and depress the ball with a small phillips screwdriver while pointing it up to let the air out.
@@kirksmotorrad thank you very much!!! Ill do that to see what happens
You do make some of the funny, Oops.. its nice to see.. really enjoyed it...