A video with the tensioner shake ruclips.net/video/wF4LaN9izUY/видео.html 2001-mid2004 tensioner adjustment (see comments) ruclips.net/video/C-qhJ8Vjhu8/видео.html
Ill second the "Never put an aftermarket Water Pump in the Volvo". What Peppermint said is exactly what happened to my S80. I bought it with 120,000 miles on it. So, right away I changed the timing belt. I did notice it had a Continental Belt, and said it was changed at 70,000 miles. I put in a Genuine Volvo timing belt. 30,000 miles later I was driving down the highway and heard a "poof" and the engine just turned off. I checked the timing belt, and sure enough it was off the gears. :(. I checked the Water Pump and it was froze solid. Wouldnt turn at all. I got it out, and looked at the Brand. Looked it up, and its not even the cheap brand that an Autozone sells. But, I see it for sale all over eBay at the cheapest price of all Volvo Water Pumps. So, dont make the same mistake. Now Ive been without the S80 for almost two years. Just now learned enough to give pulling the head off and redoing the valves. So lesson is...Saved $40 on a part, and cause thousands of dollars of damage!
I tried doing this check and removed the right hand cover ( the one with clips and screws ). But I couldn’t find a way to remove the left hand cover, how can I remove it?
Hi, the larger left side cover that goes to the bottom of the engine is secured at the top with two metal clips (one near the firewall and one in front), then on the side there is a recessed hole with at long 10mm bolt inside - it is a little difficult to reach with the ratchet because it sits recessed. There are also a few plastic tabs on each side that undo by themselves when you pull on the cover (snap them back in place when replacing the cover). Once the bolt is removed and the two metal clips released, pull up on the cover then flip it a little towards the front of the car and pull on it - it will pass tight near the struts bar but it does come out this way. This cover is somehow difficult to slide back in place because it has to slide at the bottom 'behind' the crank pulley with some tabs so practice a little when placing it back, until you get the feeling how it goes in there.
@@Peppermint1 Thank you, I will try this. As the car was supposed to have had the belt and tensioner replaced 15,000 miles ago, but the belt has very small cracks / imperfections on it, so would like to investigate further.
@@bigbluechopper24 It is time to replace it indeed, I'd recommend the Continental kit from Fcpeuro or Ipdusa if you are located in the US. If this is the first belt at 100K miels or so, we don't replace the water pump at this moment (like we do on other cars) because it lasts a good 200K. Just the belt tensioner and roller. It is good to have the belt installed by someone who works on Volvo so he doesn't do a mistake with the timing. I also recommend replacing the PCV kit at this moment. Good to read on forums about these www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=9 (US) or www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19 (UK)
Hello. I have a 2008 S60 T5. I see your comments that the needle should not shake but mine does and it is in 100F weather. Needle is mostly to the right. The timing belt was done from Volvo dealership at 98k which is 30k miles ago. I bought this car used recently and watching all your videos regarding the P2. Should I be concerned and get it checked out?. I just changed all the plugs and coils since they were the original.
The needle position depends on the engine and outdoors temperature (see link). As for the shake, if it's just a little bit I would not worry especially since it's genuine parts www.underhoodservice.com/wp-content/uploads/News/01_01_2007/VolvoFig2gif_00000015777.gif
It is possible the garage tightened the tensioner bolt too much. It has to be 15 ft-lb. I don't know if you release and tighten again the bolt it's going to be good, give it a try - don't forget to adjust the temperature needle in the center with cold engine. If the belt is still walking after tightening correctly, try another tensioner
Hi What if I'm adjusting the tensioner outdoor and the temperature is below zero, would I set the needle in the tensioner to the left of it is still has to be in the middle? Thanks
@@manfromatlants From what appears, you have the old model of tensioner used up to 2004, #30638277. Read the pinned comment in the following video : it has the information you need ruclips.net/video/C-qhJ8Vjhu8/видео.html
@@Peppermint1 Thank you so much for your response and your video. I read the comment in the video description and it was great. I'll do what in the video and will let you know what happened as I replaced the timing belt and the car started nice next day it cracnks very good but doesn't start!
Hello i installed my new timing belt, tensioner and waterpump.. i cant figure out if i correctly installed the tensioner.. can i email you the video of how i installed it how it works? Thx! I just rebuild this engine and would be a shame of de timing slipt or someting.. engine is running though
Hi Bart, my email can't handle large messages (Mb), maybe you can upload it on RUclips and send me a link? Here's some more information www.justanswer.com/volvo/895ba-volvo-s60-2-5t-just-changed-timing-belt-volvo-s60-2-5t.html ruclips.net/video/C-qhJ8Vjhu8/видео.html
I usually don't share this kind of information publicly because there is always someone that will try doing it and will mess everything and come back with flames. But the actual answer is yes, you can replace it without removing the belt BUT WITH SEVERAL CAUTIONS. The first and most important is to first align all timing marks so in case you move the belt off the pulleys, you are going to have to remove everything and do basically a timing belt job - so you need by all means to have the timing marks aligned, or your engine may be lost. As for removing the tensioner, you need two persons: one will keep tension on the belt pulling on it at the place of the tensioner, and a second will have to manoeuver the tensioner with its bolt out and in. It is VERY risky but doable with a lot of caution. The tensioner indicators will also want to hung on the belt, it takes a lot of dexterity, slow movement, and attention, and careful not to drop the bolt. The main problem is if the belt tension is released, it will drop down at the bottom under the CRANK pulley teeth and it's impossible to put back in place, no matter what you do. You also want to toss the coolant reservoir (disconnect the sensor at the bottom first), the ps reservoir, and the two upper covers from the ECM housing, to have more place.
@@Peppermint1 Ah good point about the belt coming off the crank teeth, I forgot I had a screwdriver jammed in there to keep it on the pulley when putting the belt on. The belt REALLY loves coming off those teeth. Maybe I will wait until I have time to do the whole belt again. Getting that plastic cover off around the crank pulley is just a giant PITA. At the same time, not having to replace the waterpump (and scraping the old gasket off) will probably save me a couple hours. It was my own fault as I ordered the incorrect pulley for my p2 and had to put the old one in with 10 years and 50k on it... Have a new one but I don't have anywhere to work on it. If I had an impact gun it would be easy as I also have the crank holder tool but no way to get that nut off. Thanks for the advice, it really helped.
So what I could do is take that plastic shield off around the crank, jam a screwdriver back in there to keep the belt on, then safely remove the tensioner? Still a PITA but only half of a timing job it seems like
@@GodIsADelusion The most important is first to align the timing marks. As for the tension in the belt, this is how I did it but I have like 'surgeon' hands, other people will not be able to do this, need to keep this in mind. I made place around as explained, then loosened the tensioner bolt (this will loosen a bit the tension in the belt), then with one hand I kept the tensioner at its place (with the belt on it of course), and with the left hand I removed the bolt - I had the new tensioner right by my side ready. So with right hand I kept the old tensioner in place without moving and with the other hand I pulled out the bolt put it aside nearby. The right hand at this point it's keeping the old tensioner in place with the belt on it. Then moved my right hand fingers and grabbed the belt from the tensioner and kept pulling towards the front of the engine for tension - the belt is at the same position as if the tensioner was still in place, while the left hand slowly removed the tensioner from under the belt and rotated it to free the indicators from under the belt. At all time while the tensioner is out the right hand is pulling on the belt at its tensioner location - pulling on it towards the front of the engine to keep the tension and also pay attention not to have the belt slipping off the water pump. It takes ATTENTION and DEXTERITY, not for everyone. You also mentioned the little cover in front of the crank pulley, with two 10mm bolts. Only needs removed when replacing the belt but a tip is to remove it from the front of the engine using long extensions to reach the bolts, much easier than to use a wrench by the side
@@Peppermint1 Thanks for the tips, not sure I would try by myself. I only have my non-mechanically inclined gf as a second set of hand so might not attempt your way and try the long route. Thanks again
A video with the tensioner shake ruclips.net/video/wF4LaN9izUY/видео.html
2001-mid2004 tensioner adjustment (see comments) ruclips.net/video/C-qhJ8Vjhu8/видео.html
Ill second the "Never put an aftermarket Water Pump in the Volvo". What Peppermint said is exactly what happened to my S80. I bought it with 120,000 miles on it. So, right away I changed the timing belt. I did notice it had a Continental Belt, and said it was changed at 70,000 miles. I put in a Genuine Volvo timing belt. 30,000 miles later I was driving down the highway and heard a "poof" and the engine just turned off. I checked the timing belt, and sure enough it was off the gears. :(. I checked the Water Pump and it was froze solid. Wouldnt turn at all. I got it out, and looked at the Brand. Looked it up, and its not even the cheap brand that an Autozone sells. But, I see it for sale all over eBay at the cheapest price of all Volvo Water Pumps.
So, dont make the same mistake. Now Ive been without the S80 for almost two years. Just now learned enough to give pulling the head off and redoing the valves. So lesson is...Saved $40 on a part, and cause thousands of dollars of damage!
Another vote here for INA and Gates kit.
i never had a problem with gates timing kits for 2001 s60 t5 and 2001 v70 base.
Thanks for the feedback, Artoo
I tried doing this check and removed the right hand cover ( the one with clips and screws ).
But I couldn’t find a way to remove the left hand cover, how can I remove it?
Hi, the larger left side cover that goes to the bottom of the engine is secured at the top with two metal clips (one near the firewall and one in front), then on the side there is a recessed hole with at long 10mm bolt inside - it is a little difficult to reach with the ratchet because it sits recessed. There are also a few plastic tabs on each side that undo by themselves when you pull on the cover (snap them back in place when replacing the cover). Once the bolt is removed and the two metal clips released, pull up on the cover then flip it a little towards the front of the car and pull on it - it will pass tight near the struts bar but it does come out this way. This cover is somehow difficult to slide back in place because it has to slide at the bottom 'behind' the crank pulley with some tabs so practice a little when placing it back, until you get the feeling how it goes in there.
@@Peppermint1 Thank you, I will try this.
As the car was supposed to have had the belt and tensioner replaced 15,000 miles ago, but the belt has very small cracks / imperfections on it, so would like to investigate further.
@@bigbluechopper24 It is time to replace it indeed, I'd recommend the Continental kit from Fcpeuro or Ipdusa if you are located in the US. If this is the first belt at 100K miels or so, we don't replace the water pump at this moment (like we do on other cars) because it lasts a good 200K. Just the belt tensioner and roller. It is good to have the belt installed by someone who works on Volvo so he doesn't do a mistake with the timing. I also recommend replacing the PCV kit at this moment. Good to read on forums about these www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=9 (US) or www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19 (UK)
Hello. I have a 2008 S60 T5. I see your comments that the needle should not shake but mine does and it is in 100F weather. Needle is mostly to the right. The timing belt was done from Volvo dealership at 98k which is 30k miles ago. I bought this car used recently and watching all your videos regarding the P2. Should I be concerned and get it checked out?. I just changed all the plugs and coils since they were the original.
The needle position depends on the engine and outdoors temperature (see link). As for the shake, if it's just a little bit I would not worry especially since it's genuine parts www.underhoodservice.com/wp-content/uploads/News/01_01_2007/VolvoFig2gif_00000015777.gif
Thanks for the great videos!
Is the needle movement test the same on V70 2.4 N/A 2002?
Yes, same components from 2001-2003. A little bit of movement is not a problem, just not too much.
My friend, I m having problems with the belt walk off!!! Is it just too tight??? All Volvo original parts and contitech belt
It is possible the garage tightened the tensioner bolt too much. It has to be 15 ft-lb. I don't know if you release and tighten again the bolt it's going to be good, give it a try - don't forget to adjust the temperature needle in the center with cold engine. If the belt is still walking after tightening correctly, try another tensioner
Hi
What if I'm adjusting the tensioner outdoor and the temperature is below zero, would I set the needle in the tensioner to the left of it is still has to be in the middle?
Thanks
Below 0 in Celsius or Fahrenheit ? Which year is the car ?
@@Peppermint1 Thank you for responding. It is 1999 Volvo S70 AWD 2.4L Engine DOHC turbo
@@manfromatlants From what appears, you have the old model of tensioner used up to 2004, #30638277. Read the pinned comment in the following video : it has the information you need ruclips.net/video/C-qhJ8Vjhu8/видео.html
@@Peppermint1 Thank you so much for your response and your video. I read the comment in the video description and it was great. I'll do what in the video and will let you know what happened as I replaced the timing belt and the car started nice next day it cracnks very good but doesn't start!
Hello i installed my new timing belt, tensioner and waterpump.. i cant figure out if i correctly installed the tensioner.. can i email you the video of how i installed it how it works? Thx!
I just rebuild this engine and would be a shame of de timing slipt or someting.. engine is running though
Hi Bart, my email can't handle large messages (Mb), maybe you can upload it on RUclips and send me a link? Here's some more information
www.justanswer.com/volvo/895ba-volvo-s60-2-5t-just-changed-timing-belt-volvo-s60-2-5t.html
ruclips.net/video/C-qhJ8Vjhu8/видео.html
Can I change the tensioner by itself? Or does the whole belt have to come off?
I usually don't share this kind of information publicly because there is always someone that will try doing it and will mess everything and come back with flames. But the actual answer is yes, you can replace it without removing the belt BUT WITH SEVERAL CAUTIONS. The first and most important is to first align all timing marks so in case you move the belt off the pulleys, you are going to have to remove everything and do basically a timing belt job - so you need by all means to have the timing marks aligned, or your engine may be lost. As for removing the tensioner, you need two persons: one will keep tension on the belt pulling on it at the place of the tensioner, and a second will have to manoeuver the tensioner with its bolt out and in. It is VERY risky but doable with a lot of caution. The tensioner indicators will also want to hung on the belt, it takes a lot of dexterity, slow movement, and attention, and careful not to drop the bolt. The main problem is if the belt tension is released, it will drop down at the bottom under the CRANK pulley teeth and it's impossible to put back in place, no matter what you do. You also want to toss the coolant reservoir (disconnect the sensor at the bottom first), the ps reservoir, and the two upper covers from the ECM housing, to have more place.
@@Peppermint1 Ah good point about the belt coming off the crank teeth, I forgot I had a screwdriver jammed in there to keep it on the pulley when putting the belt on. The belt REALLY loves coming off those teeth. Maybe I will wait until I have time to do the whole belt again. Getting that plastic cover off around the crank pulley is just a giant PITA. At the same time, not having to replace the waterpump (and scraping the old gasket off) will probably save me a couple hours.
It was my own fault as I ordered the incorrect pulley for my p2 and had to put the old one in with 10 years and 50k on it... Have a new one but I don't have anywhere to work on it. If I had an impact gun it would be easy as I also have the crank holder tool but no way to get that nut off. Thanks for the advice, it really helped.
So what I could do is take that plastic shield off around the crank, jam a screwdriver back in there to keep the belt on, then safely remove the tensioner? Still a PITA but only half of a timing job it seems like
@@GodIsADelusion The most important is first to align the timing marks. As for the tension in the belt, this is how I did it but I have like 'surgeon' hands, other people will not be able to do this, need to keep this in mind. I made place around as explained, then loosened the tensioner bolt (this will loosen a bit the tension in the belt), then with one hand I kept the tensioner at its place (with the belt on it of course), and with the left hand I removed the bolt - I had the new tensioner right by my side ready. So with right hand I kept the old tensioner in place without moving and with the other hand I pulled out the bolt put it aside nearby. The right hand at this point it's keeping the old tensioner in place with the belt on it. Then moved my right hand fingers and grabbed the belt from the tensioner and kept pulling towards the front of the engine for tension - the belt is at the same position as if the tensioner was still in place, while the left hand slowly removed the tensioner from under the belt and rotated it to free the indicators from under the belt. At all time while the tensioner is out the right hand is pulling on the belt at its tensioner location - pulling on it towards the front of the engine to keep the tension and also pay attention not to have the belt slipping off the water pump. It takes ATTENTION and DEXTERITY, not for everyone.
You also mentioned the little cover in front of the crank pulley, with two 10mm bolts. Only needs removed when replacing the belt but a tip is to remove it from the front of the engine using long extensions to reach the bolts, much easier than to use a wrench by the side
@@Peppermint1 Thanks for the tips, not sure I would try by myself. I only have my non-mechanically inclined gf as a second set of hand so might not attempt your way and try the long route. Thanks again