I agree, keep the talks coming! I'd like to see more data presented to support the claims. Maybe even some side-by-side plots on the dyno with just one part changed?
How many springs are available for your valve? What boost is it rated to hold? On my GTI, a DV upgrade was a respectable mod on the VAG 1.8t/2.7t/3.6tt engines as the factory 710N valve was not as efficient or quick reacting as it could have been. DV upgrades smoothed out boost spikes and reacted faster than the stock 710N. Also, the rubber diaphram would rip/fail over time. Most of the aftermarket valves used solid pistons and various springs to fine tune boost hold.
It comes with two different springs, one is catered to a stock tune while the other is for higher boost tunes. On that note and to answer your second question, the valve has no limit. That is due to the fact that the more boost that is ran through it the more it holds the piston down.
If the OEM electronic diverter “leaks” as you demonstrated, then how much more boost will I produce? I am now monitoring my boost pressure with an iOS app called “OBD Link”… I am seeing short term (split seconds) peak boost of 16,15,14, then 12-13 continuous… Is this “boost leakage”?
This is common amongst turbo charged vehicles, specifically when running a stock tune. Our diverter valve won't give you any crazy boost gains; what it will do is smooth out the release and retention of boost in certain throttle placement. Basically it would provide smoother boost all around giving a more enjoyable drivability.
Can some one tell me where to get the guide that shows where the small hose is connected on top of the engine? Also explain to me what spring I should use ? Thanks 🙏
Here is the link to the instructions for reference s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/perrinperformance/perrin.com/products/PSP-TAC-616.pdf refer to step 22. As for what spring to use, start with the light spring it will work with high boost applications as well.
Here’s a question, I’m currently running a DMann 93 tune and an e85 tune when I want to have fun. All the fun bolt-ons, too. How would installing this affect the current e85 tune I have, which is pushing about 23 PSI? Would I need to call the tuner to retune even if it’s mechanical?
Apologies for a late response. No tune required with the install of the turbo inlet hose. However i'd say with your current setup it'd be well worth another tune, you'd see much better performance from it paired with all your other mods and goodies.
I just installed your guys’ intake, charge pipe and aos on my 22’ wrx. When shifting, after the “pshhh” noise (haha)…I get a weird high pitched tone. Think long pressing a phone button. Stock bpv making this odd sound?
So the factory diverter valve has a pig tail connector, once you go to a mechanical one, the harness will no longer be connected. So wont that throw a CEL? I would assume a tune is required for this to work without any issues?!
You are right about the harness, this why we include a resistor pack. This will negate any CEL related to the diverter valve. This is still a no tune required part just like many others of ours.
On the FA20 engines, bypass valves were a common mod but now on the FA24 it seems like a bypass valve isn't recommended. How does the diverter valve differ?
Diverter valve, bypass valve same thing. In the case of the FA24 it’s connected to the turbo instead of the charge pipe but diverts the boost back into the system. Speaking on the topic of it not being recommended; there have been vent to atmosphere and 50/50 diverter valves available for the FA24, and some of them have been known to cause problems because they do not vent all the air back to the system.
@@PERRINPerformance Can you give me a sense of what that difference is? IIUC, the spring holds the valve shut and the vacuum opens the valve, so if my reasoning is correct, the “track” spring will hold boost longer? What does that feel like to drive on the street? PS: I really appreciate your answers. Thanks again!
So sorry that i missed this, this might help some more. Soft spring drive feel: Provides a more responsive and quicker release of boost pressure, which is better suited for lower boost levels or stock turbo setups. The valve opens more easily, making throttle transitions smoother, ideal for daily driving and light performance tuning. Stiff spring drive feel: Designed for higher boost pressure setups. It holds the valve shut more firmly under boost, reducing the chance of a boost leak at high pressure. Can make throttle response feel snappier, but it may also lead to a slightly more abrupt pressure release (more noticeable "turbo noises").
As per the majority of all of are parts this does not require a tune, making it a simple bolt on upgrade. Unfortunately, if you’re already running the Turbosmart bov than this will not work. The Turbosmart bov and our diverter valve replace the same oem part.
The whole idea is to transfer excess pressure from the charge pipe to the air intake pre-turbo. If it's leaking from the charge pipe into the intake, it's a leak.
Electronic valves are more abrupt, it is true they have been in use since about 2006. We went mechanical because it’s a step towards improvement. It creates a much smoother release of the boost pressure and is much more responsive when you need it to be. Also with the removal of electronics it increases the reliability by a solid margin.
@@PERRINPerformance i copied this from their site. What’s GFB’s solution? The GFB DV+ is an innovative patented solution that solves all the shortcomings of the factory electronic diverter valve, replacing the plastic valve assembly with precision CNC machined metal components to ensure reliable operation and no boost leaks (backed by a lifetime warranty), and changes the operation method so it can open and close progressively (whilst retaining electronic control) to ensure the best possible throttle response from your turbo. Here’s how it works: In the factory electronic diverter valve the solenoid is connected directly to the valve. The spring pushes the valve closed, and the solenoid coil pulls it open, which is why it can only ever be open or shut. The DV+ however uses a “pilot actuation” system, where the solenoid is used to control the opening and closing of a small “pilot valve”. Because of this, the stroke of the solenoid is reduced from 5mm in the factory valve to less than 1mm in the DV+, resulting in faster operation. When the pilot valve is closed, pressure on the front and back of the piston is equal, courtesy of the small transfer hole in the face of the piston. However, because the area on the front of the piston is smaller than the area at the back, there is a force imbalance that pushes the piston onto the seat. The more boost, the harder the piston is forced closed. When the ECU triggers the diverter, the solenoid opens the pilot valve which relieves the pressure behind the piston and allows the boost pressure to blow it open. However, once the necessary pressure has been relieved, the spring will start to push the piston closed again, even if the ECU is still holding the pilot valve open. This is how the DV+ can open and close progressively in response to the existing boost pressure and the factory valve can’t. The DV+ opens when the ECU tells it to, but ONLY if there is boost that needs to be vented.
@@PERRINPerformance i guess i just would rather not use resistors and whatnot. I like the fact that it replaces factory part but still improves performance. I run most other Perrin things however over other companies. But Ive noticed a difference with my gfb over stock.
you may be thinking of similar parts that vent to atmosphere in some way, and they can cause problems. Our part is 100% recirculating. Could you elaborate on why you believe our part could cause engine failure?
This is great! Clear and concise explanations for all aspects of the product.
Keep the tech talks coming!
Really glad to hear you liked it. We definitely plan to do more of these Tech Talks on both new and old parts!
I agree, keep the talks coming! I'd like to see more data presented to support the claims. Maybe even some side-by-side plots on the dyno with just one part changed?
That is a fair request, we’ll certainly try to add more background information/statistics on parts.
Enjoyed this. Love you guys!
You’re making us blush ☺️
How many springs are available for your valve? What boost is it rated to hold? On my GTI, a DV upgrade was a respectable mod on the VAG 1.8t/2.7t/3.6tt engines as the factory 710N valve was not as efficient or quick reacting as it could have been. DV upgrades smoothed out boost spikes and reacted faster than the stock 710N. Also, the rubber diaphram would rip/fail over time. Most of the aftermarket valves used solid pistons and various springs to fine tune boost hold.
It comes with two different springs, one is catered to a stock tune while the other is for higher boost tunes. On that note and to answer your second question, the valve has no limit. That is due to the fact that the more boost that is ran through it the more it holds the piston down.
If the OEM electronic diverter “leaks” as you demonstrated, then how much more boost will I produce? I am now monitoring my boost pressure with an iOS app called “OBD Link”… I am seeing short term (split seconds) peak boost of 16,15,14, then 12-13 continuous… Is this “boost leakage”?
This is common amongst turbo charged vehicles, specifically when running a stock tune. Our diverter valve won't give you any crazy boost gains; what it will do is smooth out the release and retention of boost in certain throttle placement. Basically it would provide smoother boost all around giving a more enjoyable drivability.
Now I need a install video
Don't worry, its on our list of videos to make soon!
What is done with the electrical connector now that this one is mechanical?
We supply a resistor pack to be installed so that no CEL are thrown
Can some one tell me where to get the guide that shows where the small hose is connected on top of the engine? Also explain to me what spring I should use ? Thanks 🙏
Here is the link to the instructions for reference s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/perrinperformance/perrin.com/products/PSP-TAC-616.pdf refer to step 22.
As for what spring to use, start with the light spring it will work with high boost applications as well.
Here’s a question, I’m currently running a DMann 93 tune and an e85 tune when I want to have fun. All the fun bolt-ons, too. How would installing this affect the current e85 tune I have, which is pushing about 23 PSI? Would I need to call the tuner to retune even if it’s mechanical?
Sounds like you got a fun toy! No tuning required! It’ll run nice and smooth with your tune and its current PSI.
@@PERRINPerformance what about this combined with your turbo inlet pipe? I’m assuming direct fit, no issues? Any tuning for the pipe?
Apologies for a late response. No tune required with the install of the turbo inlet hose. However i'd say with your current setup it'd be well worth another tune, you'd see much better performance from it paired with all your other mods and goodies.
I just installed your guys’ intake, charge pipe and aos on my 22’ wrx. When shifting, after the “pshhh” noise (haha)…I get a weird high pitched tone. Think long pressing a phone button. Stock bpv making this odd sound?
based off your description i would say its is the OEM diverter valve. It does have a bit of a whistle to it.
Other than warranty, what do I *lose* by going to a mechanical diverter valve? Is there a technical advantage to the ECU-controlled system?
There really is no trade off. The biggest benefit is durability/longevity without the potential of leaks like the OEM part.
@@PERRINPerformance Thanks for your answer! I’m guessing the reason Subaru has an electronic waste gate is the usual “it’s cheap(er)”?
So the factory diverter valve has a pig tail connector, once you go to a mechanical one, the harness will no longer be connected. So wont that throw a CEL? I would assume a tune is required for this to work without any issues?!
You are right about the harness, this why we include a resistor pack. This will negate any CEL related to the diverter valve. This is still a no tune required part just like many others of ours.
On the FA20 engines, bypass valves were a common mod but now on the FA24 it seems like a bypass valve isn't recommended. How does the diverter valve differ?
Diverter valve, bypass valve same thing. In the case of the FA24 it’s connected to the turbo instead of the charge pipe but diverts the boost back into the system.
Speaking on the topic of it not being recommended; there have been vent to atmosphere and 50/50 diverter valves available for the FA24, and some of them have been known to cause problems because they do not vent all the air back to the system.
Warranty?! Will this VOID new car warranty? Sounds like a good add on!
long story short yes.... however the likelihood of this part throwing a red flag at the dealer is very low.
Another quick question: what difference does the spring weight make, exactly?
As far as the spring rate goes, it does not affect performance but it will make a difference to drive ability.
@@PERRINPerformance Can you give me a sense of what that difference is? IIUC, the spring holds the valve shut and the vacuum opens the valve, so if my reasoning is correct, the “track” spring will hold boost longer? What does that feel like to drive on the street?
PS: I really appreciate your answers. Thanks again!
So sorry that i missed this, this might help some more.
Soft spring drive feel:
Provides a more responsive and quicker release of boost pressure, which is better suited for lower boost levels or stock turbo setups.
The valve opens more easily, making throttle transitions smoother, ideal for daily driving and light performance tuning.
Stiff spring drive feel:
Designed for higher boost pressure setups.
It holds the valve shut more firmly under boost, reducing the chance of a boost leak at high pressure.
Can make throttle response feel snappier, but it may also lead to a slightly more abrupt pressure release (more noticeable "turbo noises").
@ awesome, thank you!
Do you need a tune with this and can I install it with my turbo smart blow of?
As per the majority of all of are parts this does not require a tune, making it a simple bolt on upgrade. Unfortunately, if you’re already running the Turbosmart bov than this will not work. The Turbosmart bov and our diverter valve replace the same oem part.
@@PERRINPerformance yea sorry I was thinking of my sti when I wrote this I meant my new 2024 Wrx vb
A boost leak after boost isnt a boost leak.
Wait what do you mean by “after”? This seems like a boost leak to me … what am I missing?
The whole idea is to transfer excess pressure from the charge pipe to the air intake pre-turbo. If it's leaking from the charge pipe into the intake, it's a leak.
I think gfb makes a great one that keeps the electronics
Electronic valves are more abrupt, it is true they have been in use since about 2006. We went mechanical because it’s a step towards improvement. It creates a much smoother release of the boost pressure and is much more responsive when you need it to be. Also with the removal of electronics it increases the reliability by a solid margin.
@@PERRINPerformance i copied this from their site.
What’s GFB’s solution?
The GFB DV+ is an innovative patented solution that solves all the shortcomings of the factory electronic diverter valve, replacing the plastic valve assembly with precision CNC machined metal components to ensure reliable operation and no boost leaks (backed by a lifetime warranty), and changes the operation method so it can open and close progressively (whilst retaining electronic control) to ensure the best possible throttle response from your turbo.
Here’s how it works:
In the factory electronic diverter valve the solenoid is connected directly to the valve. The spring pushes the valve closed, and the solenoid coil pulls it open, which is why it can only ever be open or shut.
The DV+ however uses a “pilot actuation” system, where the solenoid is used to control the opening and closing of a small “pilot valve”. Because of this, the stroke of the solenoid is reduced from 5mm in the factory valve to less than 1mm in the DV+, resulting in faster operation.
When the pilot valve is closed, pressure on the front and back of the piston is equal, courtesy of the small transfer hole in the face of the piston. However, because the area on the front of the piston is smaller than the area at the back, there is a force imbalance that pushes the piston onto the seat. The more boost, the harder the piston is forced closed.
When the ECU triggers the diverter, the solenoid opens the pilot valve which relieves the pressure behind the piston and allows the boost pressure to blow it open. However, once the necessary pressure has been relieved, the spring will start to push the piston closed again, even if the ECU is still holding the pilot valve open.
This is how the DV+ can open and close progressively in response to the existing boost pressure and the factory valve can’t. The DV+ opens when the ECU tells it to, but ONLY if there is boost that needs to be vented.
@@PERRINPerformance i guess i just would rather not use resistors and whatnot. I like the fact that it replaces factory part but still improves performance. I run most other Perrin things however over other companies. But Ive noticed a difference with my gfb over stock.
Does this make the intake noises sound better? If so do you have sound clips?
it does give a more typical pshhh sound.
Nobody asked if a tune is required? 😂
You know what, I didn’t even realize that😅
However, in true PERRIN fashion….no tune required 🤙🏼
I can't see how this doesn't require a tune.
Do NOT use this Perrin valve unless u want to blow the engine
you may be thinking of similar parts that vent to atmosphere in some way, and they can cause problems. Our part is 100% recirculating.
Could you elaborate on why you believe our part could cause engine failure?
@@PERRINPerformance I thought it vents to atmosphere.
@@PERRINPerformance lol got'em
@@RobHTech bro, that’s like the very first thing they covered in the video 🤦♂️