This man is genius. I have a Mercury 9.9Hp that was doing the same thing, backfiring and sputtering randomly. The minute I disconnected the toggle kill switch the problem went away. I thought I was going to have to scrap the engine for parts. Sir, you saved me hundreds of dollars. I cannot Thank You enough !!!!!!! Such a simple fix but yet something you would probably would not think would cause these symptoms.
Excellent Technical Advice. I had the same problem and about to take my 15hp Mercury to Marine shop. I followed your steps and the problem was solved. Your video contribution is greatly appreciated.
Ok so who are the 2 idiots that gave thumbs down?? This was an excellent presentation of the problem and all the needless money you spent. I've done that too,Thank you for sharing, I'm sure it will help save someone some trouble one day.
After drifting down the Fraser river and trying to get the motor started (I had to row in to shore) I checked out some web sites. Thanks you saved me hours of work. My wires to the kill switch looked the same as yours.
Much thanks for sharing your process and the cure...I was on my third day in the sun rebuilt carb, fixed prime and idle systems, but still no go. Was thinking of the cut switches now I am going to pull them and inspect all Thank you!
thankyou, had very same problem on 9.5 johnson i recently bought, would not start ,wiring bare,shorting against engine insulation had rotted ,1968 motor time takes its toll,wires were near moving parts re routed wires, cant touch motor,, sweet runner now
thank you for sharing. I would have done all the things you did, in the same order .If I run into this...before I buy the coils and CDI , I will check the kill switches.
Yes. Similar problem in my 15hp Mariner only it was a short in the wiring to the tiller kill switch. Keep an eye on the wiring at the point where the tiller arm rotates.
I'm also having a problem with the engine misfiring. Went through the spark plugs, and wires. Cleaned the coil pack, and I think its in the carb. It sat for 2 years and they didn't drain the fuel. I think the fuel separated and gummed up the carb and the fuel line connection.
@@bekbor I had a similar thing happen. I had a misfire on a V6 truck engine. I changed everything electrical, coil pack, plugs, wires...EVERYTHING. Still had an intermittent misfire. Then I wiggled the wiring pigtail connection that supplies power to the coil pack, while engine was running. The engine smoothed out immediately. It was a BAD molded factory electrical connector. I spliced in a new one, all was good until It failed again 6 months later. Chasing wiring gremlins, while not knowing there are wiring gremlins, is not fun.
Great work! Thank you so much, you save my time (and money as well), as i've the same engine, and the same problem, a kind of current black out that happens at high speed, for an instant, then disappear (this goes on and on). I've cleaned the carburator as well, changing gaskets etc. but without results. Hopefully, you gave me the solution.
This is a common fault on this engine. I belong to a club which has 4 of these engines. The wiring runs under the carburettor and so does the throttle and gear cables. When you select a gear the cables rub through the killswitch wiring and eventually causes this problem. All 4 of our engines had this problem.
OK...I have a 95 mariner. Just bought it. Been reading lots of opinions and info, I was told to change gear oil and fogging it ect..then I was told you dont need to do that every year..if you store it upright wrapped in thick blanket in garage or a shed for the winter to keep elements off, it should be fine. (We dont winterize our cars right? ) I know about fuel stabilizer. If the motor is kept in an upright position then water drains out lower unit. I just poked it away like that for winter(. I'm in cold climate). I believe the two stroke oil I used already has stabilizer component. Any suggestions? thanks.
Hi, I think I did not understand your question or problem, but if you want my suggestion about winter storage - I keep the engine upright, I change the gear oil before storage and I flush the cooling system (I use the motor in salty wather). I also grease the engine through all the grease nipples, I use Quick silver storage seal spray in the cylinders. Best regards!
Well found I have seen the kill switch wires crushed when someone has worked on engine and get wire trapped so same results also had a switch badly corroded where the rubber boot had split..
Add me and my cousin to the list of Jackasses that spent countless hours and $300, only to find broken kill switch wires. When reinstalling I will make sure to keep the shift linkage away from the kill switch wiring. Thank you!
Our kids haven’t been running the jon boat all summer because of this somewhat intermittent problem. The switch wires that he shows are routed UNDER the shifter cables. They were worn through. To test for this unplug one of the wires on the, eh, black box, the cdi/coil pack box, whatever it’s called. As soon as I unplugged it we knew right away that was the problem. This video led us to a problem we could not see as the wires were worn under the shifter cable under the carb. Thanks again to the guy who put this video up! We are very grateful - Signed - The other cousin
No spark on both spark plugs? If so, either the CDI (the black box) is faulty or the stator coil under the flywheel. I would measure the resistance of the stator coil under the flywheel, it has 2 coils and 3 connections, one common for both coils - they connect to the CDI box. Measure the resistance towards the common lead, one should be around 2 to 3 Kohms, the other around 200ohms. Here are the values www.outboardignition.com/page39.asp This stator coil failed 2 time in my 20 years of having such an engine so it could be also your problem.
FYI I watch Kodibas Outboard videos channel and he often mentiin checked kill switch and connections as he deals with salt water outboards used by fisherman in Kodiak Alaska where the engines have a hard life..
@@bekbor Ambele bobine care sunt conectate la bujii sunt funcționale le-am probat unu din firele care vine pe bobina din dreapta l-am pus și la bobina din stânga și dă scânteie nu cred că ar fi cdi că posibil nu trebuia să de-a scânteie la nici una din bujii după multe încercări aseara am umblat la mufe și am avut scânteie pentru scurt timp a pornit și după 30 secunde a început să întrerupă și sa oprit
@@bekbor nu am alt cdi din platou de sub volanta sunt 3 fire Unu negru cu alb Unu negru cu galben Unu masa Când îl demufez pe cel cu galben nu mai am scânteie la bobina din dreapta Când demufez pe cel cu alb nu se întâmplă nimic Am incercat cu un aparat măsură pe cel cu galben îmi arată că ar avea continuitate Dar pe cel cu alb îmi dă doar un impuls de 2 secunde
@@makesaracu1264 Aș încerca următoarele - schimb locul celor două fire care merg de la CDI la bobinele de înaltă tensiune. Acum, dacă CDI-ul este defect, ar trebui să obțineți o scânteie pe bujie care nu a avut o scânteie în configurația originală a firului. Desigur, ar trebui să testați cu bujiile scoase din motor. De asemenea, puteți măsura statorul sub volant. Ai 2 fire din stator, unul este comun. Măsurați rezistența între fire și comun (negru). O măsurătoare ar trebui să fie în jur de 2000 ohmi, cealaltă până la 200 ohmi. Dacă acest lucru este OK, statorul tău este OK, dacă nu ai putea avea probleme cu statorul.
I wonder if this is what happen to use out on the lake tonight. I have a 1994 Mercury 25 HP 2 stroke. Was running good and strong at WOT then it spit like it was going to stall for a second, then ran strong again. We stopped to an idle for a couple minutes then it stalled. Restarted it a few times and it ran rough then stalled out again. We were lucky a friend went out with his bass boat along with us and he towed us back in. I will check the 2 kill switches in the morning. Hope that is what the problem is.
@@quentinsilas5912 Once I got it home. It started right up and ran smooth. I ended up cleaning the carb, through a couple bottles of dry gas in the tank and put some octane booster in the tank also. It ran well for a while then started acting up again. Bought a new fuel line and ball and not a problem since. The fueling deteriorates over time and lets pieces loose in the fuel. replace fuel line if it's over 4 years old.
Hello Mr Bekbor, i´m from Argentina and I have the same outboard motor, may be you can help me because I saw on your video that you didn´t use a container to cold your motor, I saw something yellow with the hose atached to the propeller ?? I will appreciate very much if show me how does it work and a brand or MPN. Thank you in advance . Saludos from Buenos Aires
The yellow thing attached to the lower part of the engine is an original Mercury Quick Silver accesorie Flush Kit no. 12612A2. It is placed on the water intake and connected to a hose with water so you do not need to use a conainer with water to run the motor out of water. Regards from Zagreb, Croatia
Eliminated that issue my engine still does the same I can get her running but can only keep her going for the same length of time each time about 30 or so seconds and then its revs up and dies like its stared of fuel!! I removed the carb and gave it to a 2stroke mechanic he cleaned it and the jets with small brushes. So it may not be carb ..its wreaking my head! It's a year 2000 motor so maybe a overhaul is required!!!
I wouldn't thnk that an overhaul is needed. Before decidong on that you shouldcheck the compresion. Have you done any checks with the electrical ignition system? Does the diafraghm fuel pump deliver fuel continuesly? It may fill the carb bowl with the float but when the enginebusrs that fuel it takes to long to deliver new fuel...
@@bekbor I feel it's some thing small that's holding the engine back ! The compression FEELS good there is good resistance but il try and get them checked soon as for the fuel pump what you said could be another issue that's worth exploring il have to look in tothe workings of the fuel pump to better understand it and as for the ignition system how is the best way to check that out? Thanks
ruclips.net/video/kc4hAl1T2IQ/видео.html I think my problem may well be the fuel pump as this guys description of what happens is the same as mine ....
@@82HEADCASE About the ignition - the stator which is under the flywheel, has 2 coils, for low revs and high revs. I had to change the stator 2 times because it burnrs out after 10 years of summer usage. The terminals of the stator end on the black switch box, The black os common for both coils, mrasure the resistance from the common lead to the other 2 terminals. One mesurement should be a few hundred ohms, the other 2 to 3 kohms. Its the coil with the bgger resostancebhat suffers, the isolation betwren turns melts with heating of tje engine thus the tesistance gets lower until the coil finaly burns out. The switch box could also behave iraticaly if moisture managef to enter. You would have to have a teplacement one to check that.
@@bekbor great info there thanks ... im going to order a new fuel pump diaphragm first to see if indeed that is the issue ..if nothing changes il look in to the electrical side of things... il keep you posted on my results thank you for your assistance
Great video. On a similar note, i have a 15hp Mercury 2stroke that coughs at idle with extra smoke and sometimes will die. But runs strong at any other speed. Thoughts anyone?
Have you checked the carburetor adjusting? Everything else is pretty much fixed, no possibility for ignition timing setting... Of course, check if the ignition coil moves freely when increasing and decreasing throttle. Check the spark plugs gap. That what I would do.
O ponto principal deste vídeo é que eu sugiro que você verifique os fios dos interruptores de parada e os interruptores de parada se seu motor estiver travando...
This man is genius. I have a Mercury 9.9Hp that was doing the same thing, backfiring and sputtering randomly. The minute I disconnected the toggle kill switch the problem went away. I thought I was going to have to scrap the engine for parts. Sir, you saved me hundreds of dollars. I cannot Thank You enough !!!!!!! Such a simple fix but yet something you would probably would not think would cause these symptoms.
Excellent Technical Advice. I had the same problem and about to take my 15hp Mercury to Marine shop. I followed your steps and the problem was solved. Your video contribution is greatly appreciated.
Ok so who are the 2 idiots that gave thumbs down?? This was an excellent presentation of the problem and all the needless money you spent. I've done that too,Thank you for sharing, I'm sure it will help save someone some trouble one day.
Now There is 21 idiots
Yep.. its a great video..
After drifting down the Fraser river and trying to get the motor started (I had to row in to shore) I checked out some web sites. Thanks you saved me hours of work. My wires to the kill switch looked the same as yours.
Sir, you have saved me doing a lot of work that was not necessary, excellent.
Thank you
I'm so happy that the video was helpful to you!
Glad you found the problem. Most people would give up long ago so good for you.
🎉Thank you, the kill switch was something we had not looked at. God bless you and for sharing.
Excellent information . Thank you. Its good to learn from people and their experiences with outboard engine problems.
Just come across this and we're having the same problem, going to my boat Tuesday and if that's the problem you sir are amazing 🙂
Thanks for your nice comment and good luck on Tuesday!
Much thanks for sharing your process and the cure...I was on my third day in the sun rebuilt carb, fixed prime and idle systems, but still no go. Was thinking of the cut switches now I am going to pull them and inspect all Thank you!
Best luck to you solving the pproblem and thanks for your nice comment.
Excellent video for me as I know nothing about outboard engine and you have taught me something new. Thanks Darren
Dude, thank you! Sorry you had to go through all the parts trying to figure this out. I disconnected the same switch and runs great......
Awesome,literally just helped me solve my own issue. the kill switch in the throttle handle was bad. Thank you again. Great video
Gwaktheparadox i have the same problem how You fix ir just cut off ?
Excellent video, thanks for making and posting it. Very helpful information to all of us Mercury owners. Also, your engine looks like new!
Thank you for your nice comment, I appreciate it.
Thank you for your video. I was having the same problem and fixed my 15 hp Mercury after watching.
I am so glad it helped you and others. I've uploaded it with that purpose.
Had a similar stop switch grounding scenario with exactly the same type of 15hp Mariner. Thank you for sharing your experience.
This is great thank you for this !! Probably my issue going to check now
I have the exact same engine. I found a bad wire for tiller handle kill switch. Thanks for the video.
Excellent video... you just saved me a lot of grief🙏 thank you
Thanks for posting this. Just acquired a 15hp with the dingy I bought and it has this same problem.
Thank you for sharing this with us. I have the same problem with my mariner of 99. I will check it these days
thankyou, had very same problem on 9.5 johnson i recently bought, would not start ,wiring bare,shorting against engine insulation had rotted ,1968 motor time takes its toll,wires were near moving parts re routed wires, cant touch motor,, sweet runner now
Thankyou. Turned out my issue was the tiller kill switch wires worn bare 👍
excellent video... very helpful.. solved my problem on my 15hp mercury.. 👍👍
Thank you Sir for sharing your experience.
thank you for sharing. I would have done all the things you did, in the same order .If I run into this...before I buy the coils and
CDI , I will check the kill switches.
Excellent video...iv a mariner 10 hp short shaft and its giving me bother ....this is one Avenue worth checking ..thanks agen
great video.. Never would have thought of that
Thanks..for the video..same problem, it was an easy fix..
Yes. Similar problem in my 15hp Mariner only it was a short in the wiring to the tiller kill switch. Keep an eye on the wiring at the point where the tiller arm rotates.
Thank you for contributing with your experience!
I'm also having a problem with the engine misfiring. Went through the spark plugs, and wires. Cleaned the coil pack, and I think its in the carb. It sat for 2 years and they didn't drain the fuel. I think the fuel separated and gummed up the carb and the fuel line connection.
Great video, great narration
thanks so much. Good detective work
I notice some rub marks on mine .. now imma have to try and unplug it .. thanks for your video
Good luck!
@@bekbor one of the wire to my coil isn’t getting me spark .. even with a new cdi so I’m hoping it’s just grounding issue
@@WeOutChea Hope you solved the problem!
@@bekbor change the points and now it’s good .. thanks again
Thank you, I've been having a problem, I'll check mine tomorrow. Maybe I have the same problem.
Having the same problem its the first thing I check tomorrow.
jonathan spreadborough i’am late but did it work?
Will check this tomorrow thankyou
Awesome find! Chafed wires hiding are a botch!
Definitely true, an engineering botch up, otherwise the motor is very reliable. Thank you for appreciating my video.
@@bekbor I had a similar thing happen. I had a misfire on a V6 truck engine. I changed everything electrical, coil pack, plugs, wires...EVERYTHING. Still had an intermittent misfire. Then I wiggled the wiring pigtail connection that supplies power to the coil pack, while engine was running. The engine smoothed out immediately. It was a BAD molded factory electrical connector. I spliced in a new one, all was good until It failed again 6 months later. Chasing wiring gremlins, while not knowing there are wiring gremlins, is not fun.
i have this machine but it's hard to find a spare part
Great work! Thank you so much, you save my time (and money as well), as i've the same engine, and the same problem, a kind of current black out that happens at high speed, for an instant, then disappear (this goes on and on). I've cleaned the carburator as well, changing gaskets etc. but without results. Hopefully, you gave me the solution.
Hard to find those electrical gremlins. Had a EFI snowmobile do the same, chaffed wire grounded and would shut it off. Nice video.
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks...I learned a lot from your video. My problem is that my Mercury 15 4 stroke pops or backfires at high rpm and runs fine at low rpm
This is a common fault on this engine. I belong to a club which has 4 of these engines. The wiring runs under the carburettor and so does the throttle and gear cables. When you select a gear the cables rub through the killswitch wiring and eventually causes this problem. All 4 of our engines had this problem.
Yes, that is just what happened to my engine, it took me a few days to work out what the problem is.
OK...I have a 95 mariner. Just bought it. Been reading lots of opinions and info, I was told to change gear oil and fogging it ect..then I was told you dont need to do that every year..if you store it upright wrapped in thick blanket in garage or a shed for the winter to keep elements off, it should be fine. (We dont winterize our cars right? ) I know about fuel stabilizer. If the motor is kept in an upright position then water drains out lower unit. I just poked it away like that for winter(. I'm in cold climate). I believe the two stroke oil I used already has stabilizer component. Any suggestions? thanks.
Hi, I think I did not understand your question or problem, but if you want my suggestion about winter storage - I keep the engine upright, I change the gear oil before storage and I flush the cooling system (I use the motor in salty wather). I also grease the engine through all the grease nipples, I use Quick silver storage seal spray in the cylinders. Best regards!
I just aquired the boat & that motor on a cottage deal & it is doing the exact as described. I am anxious to see if that is it. Dean in Winnipeg
Well found I have seen the kill switch wires crushed when someone has worked on engine and get wire trapped so same results also had a switch badly corroded where the rubber boot had split..
Mi dici anno di produzione di questo motore ? Non sono affidabili?
Great video. Thanks
Thank you. Verry helpful.
Add me and my cousin to the list of Jackasses that spent countless hours and $300, only to find broken kill switch wires. When reinstalling I will make sure to keep the shift linkage away from the kill switch wiring. Thank you!
Our kids haven’t been running the jon boat all summer because of this somewhat intermittent problem. The switch wires that he shows are routed UNDER the shifter cables. They were worn through. To test for this unplug one of the wires on the, eh, black box, the cdi/coil pack box, whatever it’s called. As soon as I unplugged it we knew right away that was the problem. This video led us to a problem we could not see as the wires were worn under the shifter cable under the carb. Thanks again to the guy who put this video up! We are very grateful - Signed - The other cousin
awsome video!
Where did you get the water muff for the engine thanks
I bought it years ago from a Mercury dealer here in Croatia. Try ebay...
A alguma bobina p motor de popa Elgin 28hp ou outra atual q possa substituila
Thank you a great help
Hello there, I have the same engine but it’s not getting spark, could you help please
No spark on both spark plugs? If so, either the CDI (the black box) is faulty or the stator coil under the flywheel. I would measure the resistance of the stator coil under the flywheel, it has 2 coils and 3 connections, one common for both coils - they connect to the CDI box. Measure the resistance towards the common lead, one should be around 2 to 3 Kohms, the other around 200ohms. Here are the values www.outboardignition.com/page39.asp This stator coil failed 2 time in my 20 years of having such an engine so it could be also your problem.
FYI
I watch Kodibas Outboard videos channel and he often mentiin checked kill switch and connections as he deals with salt water outboards used by fisherman in Kodiak Alaska where the engines have a hard life..
Thanks for the info!
Ce se întâmplă când dă scânteie doar la o singura bujie care sa fie cauza multumesc
As crede ca problema este la bobina de inalta tensiune la care este conectata bujia fara scanteie
@@bekbor Ambele bobine care sunt conectate la bujii sunt funcționale le-am probat unu din firele care vine pe bobina din dreapta l-am pus și la bobina din stânga și dă scânteie nu cred că ar fi cdi că posibil nu trebuia să de-a scânteie la nici una din bujii după multe încercări aseara am umblat la mufe și am avut scânteie pentru scurt timp a pornit și după 30 secunde a început să întrerupă și sa oprit
@@makesaracu1264 Verificați toate firele pentru scurtcircuit sau conexiune slabă. Dacă ai avea un alt CDI pentru testare, ar fi și bine
@@bekbor nu am alt cdi din platou de sub volanta sunt 3 fire
Unu negru cu alb
Unu negru cu galben
Unu masa
Când îl demufez pe cel cu galben nu mai am scânteie la bobina din dreapta
Când demufez pe cel cu alb nu se întâmplă nimic
Am incercat cu un aparat măsură pe cel cu galben îmi arată că ar avea continuitate
Dar pe cel cu alb îmi dă doar un impuls de 2 secunde
@@makesaracu1264 Aș încerca următoarele - schimb locul celor două fire care merg de la CDI la bobinele de înaltă tensiune. Acum, dacă CDI-ul este defect, ar trebui să obțineți o scânteie pe bujie care nu a avut o scânteie în configurația originală a firului. Desigur, ar trebui să testați cu bujiile scoase din motor. De asemenea, puteți măsura statorul sub volant. Ai 2 fire din stator, unul este comun. Măsurați rezistența între fire și comun (negru). O măsurătoare ar trebui să fie în jur de 2000 ohmi, cealaltă până la 200 ohmi. Dacă acest lucru este OK, statorul tău este OK, dacă nu ai putea avea probleme cu statorul.
I wonder if this is what happen to use out on the lake tonight. I have a 1994 Mercury 25 HP 2 stroke. Was running good and strong at WOT then it spit like it was going to stall for a second, then ran strong again. We stopped to an idle for a couple minutes then it stalled. Restarted it a few times and it ran rough then stalled out again. We were lucky a friend went out with his bass boat along with us and he towed us back in. I will check the 2 kill switches in the morning. Hope that is what the problem is.
My 15 hp mariner is doing the exact same thing.. I’m not sure on what it is
@@quentinsilas5912 Once I got it home. It started right up and ran smooth. I ended up cleaning the carb, through a couple bottles of dry gas in the tank and put some octane booster in the tank also. It ran well for a while then started acting up again. Bought a new fuel line and ball and not a problem since. The fueling deteriorates over time and lets pieces loose in the fuel. replace fuel line if it's over 4 years old.
Hello Mr Bekbor, i´m from Argentina and I have the same outboard motor, may be you can help me because I saw on your video that you didn´t use a container to cold your motor, I saw something yellow with the hose atached to the propeller ??
I will appreciate very much if show me how does it work and a brand or MPN.
Thank you in advance .
Saludos from Buenos Aires
The yellow thing attached to the lower part of the engine is an original Mercury Quick Silver accesorie Flush Kit no. 12612A2. It is placed on the water intake and connected to a hose with water so you do not need to use a conainer with water to run the motor out of water. Regards from Zagreb, Croatia
bekbor Thank you very much, for you time and helped, I will try to find it on EBAY. to purchase . thanks again....saludos from Argentina!!!!!
Qual o nome dessa peça amarela pra adoçar ?
Nice. Thank you
Good video :)
como que arruma esses ferinho aí do lado dele
Eliminated that issue my engine still does the same I can get her running but can only keep her going for the same length of time each time about 30 or so seconds and then its revs up and dies like its stared of fuel!!
I removed the carb and gave it to a 2stroke mechanic he cleaned it and the jets with small brushes. So it may not be carb ..its wreaking my head! It's a year 2000 motor so maybe a overhaul is required!!!
I wouldn't thnk that an overhaul is needed. Before decidong on that you shouldcheck the compresion. Have you done any checks with the electrical ignition system? Does the diafraghm fuel pump deliver fuel continuesly? It may fill the carb bowl with the float but when the enginebusrs that fuel it takes to long to deliver new fuel...
@@bekbor I feel it's some thing small that's holding the engine back ! The compression FEELS good there is good resistance but il try and get them checked soon as for the fuel pump what you said could be another issue that's worth exploring il have to look in tothe workings of the fuel pump to better understand it and as for the ignition system how is the best way to check that out?
Thanks
ruclips.net/video/kc4hAl1T2IQ/видео.html
I think my problem may well be the fuel pump as this guys description of what happens is the same as mine ....
@@82HEADCASE About the ignition - the stator which is under the flywheel, has 2 coils, for low revs and high revs. I had to change the stator 2 times because it burnrs out after 10 years of summer usage. The terminals of the stator end on the black switch box, The black os common for both coils, mrasure the resistance from the common lead to the other 2 terminals. One mesurement should be a few hundred ohms, the other 2 to 3 kohms. Its the coil with the bgger resostancebhat suffers, the isolation betwren turns melts with heating of tje engine thus the tesistance gets lower until the coil finaly burns out. The switch box could also behave iraticaly if moisture managef to enter. You would have to have a teplacement one to check that.
@@bekbor great info there thanks ... im going to order a new fuel pump diaphragm first to see if indeed that is the issue ..if nothing changes il look in to the electrical side of things... il keep you posted on my results thank you for your assistance
Thank's good man
I have the same problem with a honda 2hp and them i find out i was the kill s.
Great video. On a similar note, i have a 15hp Mercury 2stroke that coughs at idle with extra smoke and sometimes will die. But runs strong at any other speed. Thoughts anyone?
Have you checked the carburetor adjusting? Everything else is pretty much fixed, no possibility for ignition timing setting... Of course, check if the ignition coil moves freely when increasing and decreasing throttle. Check the spark plugs gap. That what I would do.
Brpa harganya ya.....yg 15 stoke
Thanks for posting, too bad you had to spend time and money replacing all those parts, but this may save someone else from having to do the same.....
They're decent engines until you hit a rock, they don't have shear pins, so hit a rock and you'll break a prop shaft
Mercury
I'll give it ago
Traduzir português
O ponto principal deste vídeo é que eu sugiro que você verifique os fios dos interruptores de parada e os interruptores de parada se seu motor estiver travando...
Traduzir em portugues