The bolts break because the high welding heat ruins the temper in the metal, if you treat the spindle like a knife blade and re-temper in an oven they will last a lot better. I like the video.
Don't include zinc in any weld. Grind off. Also never rely on that weld Grade 8 will snap as well. Do vertical tube , then add tube perp. with id that matches bolt od. Cut head off slide bolt in hole and rosette weld away from stress area. You now have a spindle that does not rely on welds in the load path.. at all Ezy peezy
Wondering if quenching the bolt weld would help restore the lost Grade 8 hardness that was destroyed in the welding process (if the entire shank/head was fully red). Especially considering the cantilevered stress-point is exactly where the old one snapped off. BTW, like the suspended Kart front-end.
I wasn't wearing a mask when welding the galvanized metal (I have one). Believe it or not I was holding my breath (which I do often when welding--at least on short welds). It is hard to see when it is that fast, but I hold my breath, weld, then turn to clean air to take another breath before welding again.
@@joshuabartley1279 I know. I weld in an open door garage, hold my breath, and breath outside in between welds. Probably better to have a mask, but I don't know that the ones I have are sufficient.
Mig welding is not deep enough penetration for a stressful joint. Arc is much better. But grind zinc off first not just because its poisonous but it contaminates the weld.
Hi, I'm designing my new go kart with suspension project currently, and am looking to do something similar to yours with the a-arms and eyelets to fasten the spindles to. Can you tell me what you used to attach the eyelets that the spindle bolts to? It looks like it goes through the center channel of the a-arm and is secured from the backside. Did you fab these, or are they sourceable? Thanks!
If I understand you correctly it is something similar to this but wider: www.bmikarts.com/Shock-Mounting-Tab--38_p_1285.html You can buy them somewhere, but I just made mine.
Thank you for the link. I was actually referring to the eyelet/balljoint that is affixed to the outer end of the a-arms, that the spindle mounts to and pivots on. Did you weld a nut onto the a-arm, or is that eyelet part of a longer piece that goes through the channel on the a-arm and secures with a nut from the backside? Thanks!
Yes, I just welded a nut onto the end. I then can adjust the length of the tie rod end in and out. I was able to make unequal a-arms that way (even though the arms were all built the same)
In your opinion, with the different length arms enough to give it camber gains in cornering, and does that help it track through corners better? Also, are your upper and lower arms mounted exactly parallel to each other, or is the lower arm just slightly ahead of the upper in order to get a positive caster, or if not, how were you able to get a positive caster with your spindle set-up? Sorry for all the questions! All of the info you can give me is greatly appreciated and saves me from having to go through trial and error
Yes, I think it helps, and one set of arms is slightly behind the other.... but I don't remember which way. I think the upper are behind the lower..... I remember having to add a few degrees to my spindles to even out the tires too.
I have an issue on my go kart the rubber sealant in between the hub and spindles basically just fell apart does anybody know what it’s called or if I just have to get a whole new hub that will have it already in it
Thanks for mentioning the ackerman angle
Wondering if the welds still holding being the zinc coating fully contaminated the weld..
Yes, there hasn't been any issues
Nice build, I like the yellow plating. It gives the machine a cool accent.
The bolts break because the high welding heat ruins the temper in the metal, if you treat the spindle like a knife blade and re-temper in an oven they will last a lot better. I like the video.
Makes sense. Thank you.
If the temper was ruined it would bend not snap
Grade 8 on everything that holds a person
Don't include zinc in any weld. Grind off. Also never rely on that weld Grade 8 will snap as well. Do vertical tube , then add tube perp. with id that matches bolt od. Cut head off slide bolt in hole and rosette weld away from stress area. You now have a spindle that does not rely on welds in the load path.. at all Ezy peezy
I am trying to build a recumbent trike for my son. Your video was freaking invaluable! I appreciate it so much I am going to subscribe! Thanks bud!
Thanks! Here is an updated video where I built a jig to save me time in the long run:
ruclips.net/video/ha3Bgu0QBPU/видео.html
Wondering if quenching the bolt weld would help restore the lost Grade 8 hardness that was destroyed in the welding process (if the entire shank/head was fully red). Especially considering the cantilevered stress-point is exactly where the old one snapped off. BTW, like the suspended Kart front-end.
Never artificially cool weld on reinforced metal. It will snap if not now later
I wasn't wearing a mask when welding the galvanized metal (I have one). Believe it or not I was holding my breath (which I do often when welding--at least on short welds). It is hard to see when it is that fast, but I hold my breath, weld, then turn to clean air to take another breath before welding again.
The mask is for your eyes......... doh
Galvanized fumes is toxic,
@@joshuabartley1279 I know. I weld in an open door garage, hold my breath, and breath outside in between welds. Probably better to have a mask, but I don't know that the ones I have are sufficient.
I understand, that will work just fine. I was commenting to the person that said the mask is for your eyes.@@JohnHarmon
Mig welding is not deep enough penetration for a stressful joint. Arc is much better. But grind zinc off first not just because its poisonous but it contaminates the weld.
Cool video. Thanks for the info. Nice kart by the way.
Nice one, thanks mate, very helpful video.
Hi, I'm designing my new go kart with suspension project currently, and am looking to do something similar to yours with the a-arms and eyelets to fasten the spindles to. Can you tell me what you used to attach the eyelets that the spindle bolts to? It looks like it goes through the center channel of the a-arm and is secured from the backside. Did you fab these, or are they sourceable? Thanks!
If I understand you correctly it is something similar to this but wider: www.bmikarts.com/Shock-Mounting-Tab--38_p_1285.html
You can buy them somewhere, but I just made mine.
Thank you for the link. I was actually referring to the eyelet/balljoint that is affixed to the outer end of the a-arms, that the spindle mounts to and pivots on. Did you weld a nut onto the a-arm, or is that eyelet part of a longer piece that goes through the channel on the a-arm and secures with a nut from the backside?
Thanks!
Yes, I just welded a nut onto the end. I then can adjust the length of the tie rod end in and out. I was able to make unequal a-arms that way (even though the arms were all built the same)
In your opinion, with the different length arms enough to give it camber gains in cornering, and does that help it track through corners better? Also, are your upper and lower arms mounted exactly parallel to each other, or is the lower arm just slightly ahead of the upper in order to get a positive caster, or if not, how were you able to get a positive caster with your spindle set-up?
Sorry for all the questions! All of the info you can give me is greatly appreciated and saves me from having to go through trial and error
Yes, I think it helps, and one set of arms is slightly behind the other.... but I don't remember which way. I think the upper are behind the lower..... I remember having to add a few degrees to my spindles to even out the tires too.
LOL... 4:30. ALVIN!! nice chipmunk voice over
That's an awesome kart..do u still have it?
Yes, I still have it.
I'm in the process of building this cart and I was wondering if I should extend the frame 12 inches since I'm 5' 9.
I would if it is just for you. My kids ride the one I built, so I left it the original size
i m making gokart my frint wheel bearing is 6003 which size of bolt i use to make stubaxel
I have an issue on my go kart the rubber sealant in between the hub and spindles basically just fell apart does anybody know what it’s called or if I just have to get a whole new hub that will have it already in it
Impressive. And the preheat is a another hack I'll add to my collection. Thanks!
medida pivô suspensão?
Nice buggy
Could you pass the plans?
I really need help. Where can i buy a spindle from??
bmikarts.com and jegs is where I would start
That intro was awesome. How'd u make it?
It is an after effects template from videohive.net
qual a medida do terminal articulado, é M16,M18 ou M20?
I am not sure what you mean by hinged terminal (google translate)
what is the size of cylinder tube
5/8 id, 1" od assuming you are referring to the DOM tubing
Can you send me a video how you build your go kart from the beginning? I like the design of you go kart its awesome...
Yes I will
@@komalatarapolu7687 can u send me as well please
U said its factory.......
where we get spindle?
+Kungan Mishra If you don't want to make them you can buy them from bmikarts.com
Go powers ports or bmi karts and supplies
John Harmon - Cold Creek Works ok thnx
bellow chesis you have fit the jumper its end fit with wheel where on wheel n how please reply nice vedio but I confuse above
I am not sure what you are asking
measure Bearing Rod End
I have the exact same mask I think
Nice
you almost sound english with voice spead up
No he doesnt. He sounds american.
ช
qual medida extremidade da haste