George slams another one right out of the park as the community jumps to their feet and roars their approval thank you for another very interesting and informative video my friend looking forward to the next one in the series.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing I've done 4 scotch style runs, using 9#of Golden Promise and 2# of Heavy Peated barley. I also added 10# of sugar. Having only my little Mr. Distiller air still, stripping runs are not possible. So far I am pleasantly surprised by the outcome ! I have a 2 gal oak keg, right now it's full of runs 3+4. 1+2 are bottled after 6 weeks aging. 👍👍 Can't wait til I can get a "real" still. Thanks again George , STAY HEALTHY Sir ! !
Awesome videos George 👍 Waiting in anticipation for the next video in the series 🙂 Looks like I've got two more projects to add to my list for my Distillery.
Can you use a big pot and propane burner to maintain each temperature and time duration, using 4 gallons water? Then drain and strain off grain. Next add 2 fresh gallons of 155° F water and grains back into the pot in order to soak for another 30 mins before you drain and strain one last time?
The chart you listed for ppg is overly optimistic for many grains and malts. Try and experiment by using external enzymes if needed and do a test of each of your raw grains or malts. 1 pound grain into one full gallon water. Keep covered so you don't loose water to evaporation (keep as much of the water as possible). Once you've done this you will know which brands of grains you purchase that give the highest conversion and you will remove any guess work from your own mashing as well. You can also use this technique to try different mashing techniques to see what mashing strategy works best for you and your equipment. You can always mix the mashes together after doing this for a big ferment or ferment separately so you can distill and taste the pure grain do have a better understanding of how it tastes on it's own and what mouth feel or creaminess it adds.
@@jcopeisdaddy OOPS. They must have stopped offering these. Here is another. Same product from a different supplier. www.amazon.com/Electric-Grinder-Commercial-Machine-Cereals/dp/B085631DHP/ref=sr_1_14?crid=11XUZVHUYECEW&keywords=grain+mill+grinder&qid=1584640465&sprefix=grain+mill%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-14
I also wanted to ask you about putting a spot on the homepage where we can post links and useful information for the community with your approval of course.
Hey George, I've been meaning to ask you about the difference between 2 row and 6 row. The shop where I buy my stuff says there is no difference. Is this true doese make any significant difference
mate, i have absolutely no interest in making scotch whisky, but i'll watch all your videos no matter what you are teaching us, you have the best knowledge in all of the youtube distilling channels, are you a chemist as well ? at the moment i think the kiwi "still it" channel is second to you, and he doesn't even seem to have 1 tenth the nous' that you have, but i learn from him too.. FOOTNOTE: mr still it... love your work too, ya south pacific pom :)
George, it seems you have a few things confused including the method of heat used. Alpha does the heavy hitting breaking off the big limbs while the Beta takes care of the small limbs. Each of these enzymes will denature at high temps which is why they aren't added until the mash cools. First you start HOT then work cool not the other way around as we are distilling, not making beer. We first have to convert they grains to starches which requires heat. For corn you want to start around 195 F or so which is why many just start with boiling water and mix the corn in. The corn will become thick as it converts to starches. After 30 to 60 minutes at heat this can be chilled down to 165 F (or can just be allowed to cool naturally in a cooler) where you add you other UNMALTED grains such as rye, wheat, oats or barley. You don't want to add them at higher temp as they give off to many proteins. Adjust pH to 5.6 but make sure the pH is temp corrected. At 161 F you can start to mix in your malted grains like barley. Mix in about half your malted grains to allow the Alpha Enzymes to start breaking down the starches and thinning out the mash. Hold it for 30 to 60 minutes as needed above 150 F ideally in the middle of 155 F. Chill or allow to cool to 149 F and adjust pH down to 5.2 if needed and mix in your remaining malted grains to allow the Beta enzymes to start working where the Alpha enzyme left off breaking down the smaller pieces. The Alpha enzymes will still continue to work but won't be as effective since they are out of their ideal temp and pH range. You will also get Beta enzymes from you initial malted grains added as the temp wasn't high enough to denature it. After 30 to 60 minutes do a starch test and if it's clear chill down to 104 F for an addition 30 minute rest then chill to yeast pitching temps OR lauter/sparge if you will be fermenting off grain. When you start low temp and raise it you denature many of your enzymes before your grains have turned to starch at high temps. When you do this correctly you only need 5 to 10% of the mash bill to be MALTED as you aren't denaturing them. If your grains become to thick to mix at any time when converting to starches just throw a hand full of malted grains in to thin it out a smidge but only use enough to make mixing easy enough while holding back the bulk of the malt for the proper pH and temp range where the enzymes are most effective.
@@user-co6ww2cm9k That is true in this mash as 12 of the 15 pounds are malted. But from a home brewer/distiller perspective it's useful to have one way of handling all grains that always works. 1) Create Starches at needed heat for grain being used 2) Allow Alpha to break down the starches into little pieces 3) Allow Beta to break down the little pieces left after Alpha worked on them. The alpha will want higher pH vs the beta so the "rule" is create starches first (requires higher heat for unmalted grains) then break down the big branches, then the small branches. The pH will be lowered at each step as well. If making a bourbon backset is usually used to lower the pH (sour the mash). If you start out low temp and work your way up in temp and have unmalted grains (especially corn) you will denature the enzymes this way. This way one process can be used for anything grain based. Start with boiling water for corn as your strike temp. Once your corn is added it will drop in temp to 185-190 F which is perfect to gelatinization it. Use only enough water for the corn at this point. Hold for 30 minutes then after conversion add cold water to drop temps to 160 F and add unmalted barley, wheat, rye and oats if used. Adjust pH for alpha. At 155 F start to mix in malted barley but use no more than half the malted barley. Add more cold water if needed for volume and drop temps to 149 F. Again adjust pH for optimal Beta enzymes and then start mixing in the rest of your malted barley. When you get the hang of this you learn quickly how much strike water to start with so it's thick but workable and use cold water to help reduce temps. This means less heating is needed and less cooling is needed and saves time. It's a balance. But why heat up 10 gallons of water if you only need 5 gallons at strike temp and can use cold water to help you reduce temps as needed to reach your next temp? This makes life easier on both you and your chiller. Read this thread: adiforums.com/topic/8046-bourbon-mash-question/ If you ferment off grain and sparge then use progressively hotter water for the sparge to release the sugars from the grains. Good article with temps here: www.diffordsguide.com/encyclopedia/1122/bws/single-malt-scotch-whisky-production-4-mashing Note the use of the last sparge water low in sugars for the next batch you make. This way no sugars are wasted and you get higher overall efficiency. I'd simply suggest trying this both ways (working up in temp vs down) and note the specific gravity you get and choose the method that gives the higher specific gravity for you and your equipment while being easy enough to do. Never hurts to try a few different ways to see what works best for you. What George demonstrated will of course work fine, but I'd still rinse the grains to recover more of the sugars. If nothing else read the two links provided to see how professional distillers do this.
George, you were clearly a teacher/professor in a former life... did you teach science? History? Whatever it was, your students were very lucky to have you.
I think you confused Beta-Glucanase and Glucoamylase. Glucoamylase is a debranching enzyme, it breaks the a-1,6 bonds that hold branched amylose chains onto the amylo-pectin structure. Beta-Glucanase on the other hand is an enzyme that breaks down beta-glucans, like alpha/beta amylase with amylose. Beta glucans being another type of sugar, structural to plant cell walls, use a beta-1,3 or b-1,4 bond in their chain, and is typically what makes your mash very viscous/thick/gloopy at the beginning, as it gelatinizes very easily. Once the beta-glucanase has done it's thing, and those beta-glucans are broken down, you'll see your mash drop in viscosity and become thinner, easier to stir, easier to pump. Beta-glucans are what make working with high concentrations of Rye or Oats difficult, those mashes start off very thick, and most professional distilleries will add beta-glucanase enzymes to speed up the process.
3 year olds, science, and yoga pants! Love it!!
he ain't wrong
Thanks for all the information you provide us George! I greatly appreciate your videos.
Hi George, I love that setup you have for getting all the sugars out of the grain. Would it be possible to get plans on that build?
Very cool George. I used the old boil in the bag method myself.
At 2:18 he had me dying 🤣🤣🤣 yoga pants! Preach it brother! That went down in my quote of the day book. Love the video man!
George slams another one right out of the park as the community jumps to their feet and roars their approval thank you for another very interesting and informative video my friend looking forward to the next one in the series.
Great videos, Thanks,
Fantastic George ! Thank you Sir 👍👍
Many thanks
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing I've done 4 scotch style runs, using 9#of Golden Promise and 2# of Heavy Peated barley. I also added 10# of sugar. Having only my little Mr. Distiller air still, stripping runs are not possible. So far I am pleasantly surprised by the outcome ! I have a 2 gal oak keg, right now it's full of runs 3+4. 1+2 are bottled after 6 weeks aging. 👍👍 Can't wait til I can get a "real" still. Thanks again George , STAY HEALTHY Sir ! !
Yoga pants and George.... Both truthful and both interesting!
🤣👍
Awesome videos George 👍
Waiting in anticipation for the next video in the series 🙂
Looks like I've got two more projects to add to my list for my Distillery.
Cool, thanks
Can you use a big pot and propane burner to maintain each temperature and time duration, using 4 gallons water? Then drain and strain off grain. Next add 2 fresh gallons of 155° F water and grains back into the pot in order to soak for another 30 mins before you drain and strain one last time?
I lost it when you said the 3 things that don't lie! Keep on truckin' George, looking forward to chapter 3 on scotch.
Will do
I realize you're probably not looking at this since it was posted several months ago. However. THANK YOU for the GREAT Information and lesson!!!
With the double header! Thanks again Boss.
#disciplesofgeorge
You bet!
These last two videos George went full on high school science teacher lol
yep, i got the impression that has taught in a proffesional sense.
He retired US Army so probably used to addressing the troops.
this how I instruct students as well, I am descended from science professors , though my field is the law .
Wanted to ask you about putting an area on your home page where we can post links and information useful to the community.
The chart you listed for ppg is overly optimistic for many grains and malts. Try and experiment by using external enzymes if needed and do a test of each of your raw grains or malts. 1 pound grain into one full gallon water. Keep covered so you don't loose water to evaporation (keep as much of the water as possible).
Once you've done this you will know which brands of grains you purchase that give the highest conversion and you will remove any guess work from your own mashing as well. You can also use this technique to try different mashing techniques to see what mashing strategy works best for you and your equipment.
You can always mix the mashes together after doing this for a big ferment or ferment separately so you can distill and taste the pure grain do have a better understanding of how it tastes on it's own and what mouth feel or creaminess it adds.
George- Would you mind telling us what brand that mill is? That thing is a beast!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L93NR9V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the link to the one I use.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing bad link George. Page no longer exists.
@@jcopeisdaddy OOPS. They must have stopped offering these.
Here is another. Same product from a different supplier.
www.amazon.com/Electric-Grinder-Commercial-Machine-Cereals/dp/B085631DHP/ref=sr_1_14?crid=11XUZVHUYECEW&keywords=grain+mill+grinder&qid=1584640465&sprefix=grain+mill%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-14
Hey George that grinder is beautiful where do I find one.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L93NR9V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also wanted to ask you about putting a spot on the homepage where we can post links and useful information for the community with your approval of course.
Like Jack Daniels grain bill 80% Corn 12% Rye 8% Barley. They ferment on the grain to 10-12% ABV.
Hey George, I've been meaning to ask you about the difference between 2 row and 6 row. The shop where I buy my stuff says there is no difference. Is this true doese make any significant difference
Hey, can you do a vid on converting the keg to a hot likker tank?! Complete with all the toots & whistles too!
I can find part 2 and part 3, but can’t seem to find part one
mate, i have absolutely no interest in making scotch whisky, but i'll watch all your videos no matter what you are teaching us, you have the best knowledge in all of the youtube distilling channels, are you a chemist as well ?
at the moment i think the kiwi "still it" channel is second to you, and he doesn't even seem to have 1 tenth the nous' that you have, but i learn from him too..
FOOTNOTE: mr still it... love your work too, ya south pacific pom :)
I appreciate that!
George, it seems you have a few things confused including the method of heat used. Alpha does the heavy hitting breaking off the big limbs while the Beta takes care of the small limbs. Each of these enzymes will denature at high temps which is why they aren't added until the mash cools. First you start HOT then work cool not the other way around as we are distilling, not making beer. We first have to convert they grains to starches which requires heat. For corn you want to start around 195 F or so which is why many just start with boiling water and mix the corn in. The corn will become thick as it converts to starches. After 30 to 60 minutes at heat this can be chilled down to 165 F (or can just be allowed to cool naturally in a cooler) where you add you other UNMALTED grains such as rye, wheat, oats or barley. You don't want to add them at higher temp as they give off to many proteins.
Adjust pH to 5.6 but make sure the pH is temp corrected.
At 161 F you can start to mix in your malted grains like barley. Mix in about half your malted grains to allow the Alpha Enzymes to start breaking down the starches and thinning out the mash. Hold it for 30 to 60 minutes as needed above 150 F ideally in the middle of 155 F.
Chill or allow to cool to 149 F and adjust pH down to 5.2 if needed and mix in your remaining malted grains to allow the Beta enzymes to start working where the Alpha enzyme left off breaking down the smaller pieces.
The Alpha enzymes will still continue to work but won't be as effective since they are out of their ideal temp and pH range. You will also get Beta enzymes from you initial malted grains added as the temp wasn't high enough to denature it. After 30 to 60 minutes do a starch test and if it's clear chill down to 104 F for an addition 30 minute rest then chill to yeast pitching temps OR lauter/sparge if you will be fermenting off grain.
When you start low temp and raise it you denature many of your enzymes before your grains have turned to starch at high temps. When you do this correctly you only need 5 to 10% of the mash bill to be MALTED as you aren't denaturing them.
If your grains become to thick to mix at any time when converting to starches just throw a hand full of malted grains in to thin it out a smidge but only use enough to make mixing easy enough while holding back the bulk of the malt for the proper pH and temp range where the enzymes are most effective.
This recipe doesn't contain whole corn or other unmalted grains besides oats, which can generally be handled as the malted grain.
@@user-co6ww2cm9k That is true in this mash as 12 of the 15 pounds are malted. But from a home brewer/distiller perspective it's useful to have one way of handling all grains that always works.
1) Create Starches at needed heat for grain being used
2) Allow Alpha to break down the starches into little pieces
3) Allow Beta to break down the little pieces left after Alpha worked on them.
The alpha will want higher pH vs the beta so the "rule" is create starches first (requires higher heat for unmalted grains) then break down the big branches, then the small branches. The pH will be lowered at each step as well. If making a bourbon backset is usually used to lower the pH (sour the mash). If you start out low temp and work your way up in temp and have unmalted grains (especially corn) you will denature the enzymes this way.
This way one process can be used for anything grain based. Start with boiling water for corn as your strike temp. Once your corn is added it will drop in temp to 185-190 F which is perfect to gelatinization it. Use only enough water for the corn at this point. Hold for 30 minutes then after conversion add cold water to drop temps to 160 F and add unmalted barley, wheat, rye and oats if used. Adjust pH for alpha.
At 155 F start to mix in malted barley but use no more than half the malted barley. Add more cold water if needed for volume and drop temps to 149 F. Again adjust pH for optimal Beta enzymes and then start mixing in the rest of your malted barley.
When you get the hang of this you learn quickly how much strike water to start with so it's thick but workable and use cold water to help reduce temps. This means less heating is needed and less cooling is needed and saves time. It's a balance. But why heat up 10 gallons of water if you only need 5 gallons at strike temp and can use cold water to help you reduce temps as needed to reach your next temp? This makes life easier on both you and your chiller. Read this thread: adiforums.com/topic/8046-bourbon-mash-question/
If you ferment off grain and sparge then use progressively hotter water for the sparge to release the sugars from the grains. Good article with temps here: www.diffordsguide.com/encyclopedia/1122/bws/single-malt-scotch-whisky-production-4-mashing
Note the use of the last sparge water low in sugars for the next batch you make. This way no sugars are wasted and you get higher overall efficiency.
I'd simply suggest trying this both ways (working up in temp vs down) and note the specific gravity you get and choose the method that gives the higher specific gravity for you and your equipment while being easy enough to do. Never hurts to try a few different ways to see what works best for you.
What George demonstrated will of course work fine, but I'd still rinse the grains to recover more of the sugars. If nothing else read the two links provided to see how professional distillers do this.
Can anyone tell me the name of the opening moonshine tune or song of the videos?
Hi George, I have a dumb question....
Is it possible to add to the mash these enzymes and accelerate the process?
They are already there, naturally.
I missed it how do you run a pid in manual mode as a pwm
George, you were clearly a teacher/professor in a former life... did you teach science? History? Whatever it was, your students were very lucky to have you.
I've asked him via email. He claims he was never a teacher, but that's exactly what I envisioned he did as well. Science Teacher!
I think you confused Beta-Glucanase and Glucoamylase. Glucoamylase is a debranching enzyme, it breaks the a-1,6 bonds that hold branched amylose chains onto the amylo-pectin structure. Beta-Glucanase on the other hand is an enzyme that breaks down beta-glucans, like alpha/beta amylase with amylose. Beta glucans being another type of sugar, structural to plant cell walls, use a beta-1,3 or b-1,4 bond in their chain, and is typically what makes your mash very viscous/thick/gloopy at the beginning, as it gelatinizes very easily. Once the beta-glucanase has done it's thing, and those beta-glucans are broken down, you'll see your mash drop in viscosity and become thinner, easier to stir, easier to pump.
Beta-glucans are what make working with high concentrations of Rye or Oats difficult, those mashes start off very thick, and most professional distilleries will add beta-glucanase enzymes to speed up the process.
I'm waiting for the yeast choice!
DADY
U still around cove
Yoga pants .Fuck me dead.
1
Why don't you make it plain and simple instead of all that useless jargon