How to Set a Post for a Fence or Deck
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2019
- Setting a post is the foundational step for many projects, including building a fence or a deck. Learn how to dig post holes and set 4x4 posts with gravel, concrete or foam.
Tools & materials:
Fast-setting concrete - low.es/2X7mPYo
Post hole digger - low.es/31rNfU3
Auger - low.es/2wNveBs
Post level - low.es/2IxCTt3
Sika foam mix - low.es/2I7hQhN
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Simplest and easiest to understand deck post setting video that I have watched so far. Thanks Lowe's!!
Filling the top portion of post hole with dirt will definitely ensure future fence work as posts are sure to rot! Job security at its finest.
Pressure treated. But it's probably best to use a steel anchor in concrete, then just bolt the post on top of it.
Exactly why I’m having to replace mine. The part surrounded by concrete is in nearly new condition. The part above it surrounded by dirt is eat to nothing
Forgot to said to call 811 before you dig . Don’t hit the electricity or Gas
Always fill the concrete to above ground level and slope it away from the post. Never have a layer of soil around a post. It will only last a few years before it rots through and breaks.
100 percent right I do mine with pvc jackets rebar at the bottom and a cap at the top. Got post on my property over 20 years old ... the way this guy is doin it you might get 10 years lol even with pressure treated expecting my builds to last over 50 plus years easy
Yeah filling the last 6 inches with dirt is a huge mistake.
@@chrisyerp174 got a pic, chris?
I already put my crete in early today, about 1-3" to below ground.. Can I add a sloped cap tomorrow pour of crete or will that not connect or be otherwise messed up? I only did 1 today
@Brown Butterfly so you think adding more on top would adhere to the dry concrete then or no?
Thank you!
I just bought an 8 foot long 4x6 and dug two feet and put concrete around it, I didn’t want to have to cut the post!
Can i use the imbedded anchor bolt design on a cinder block filled with concrete?
Great info- Thanks
I’m going to be
I heard flex seal works wonders if you spray the wood down to keep it from rotting.
Here in Europe we do the option 3. It is much safer and the post is proteected by roting and moisture.We even secure the concrete from moisture by adding bitumen after it is hardened
What about for a fence post? Wouldn't it lack support and put any wind loads into the fastener?
@@user-dm1tv6nl2e That metalic suport will go into the concrete and the wooden post go into that metalic suport with screws so why would it lack suport? That metalic suport is strong enough to hold it down,dont worry
@@zoltanlakatos6623 it's not down that I'm worried about. Imagine you have a single post, maybe a lamp post, so it's only the concrete footer, metal interface, and single post. The only metal attachments I've seen are a U of sheet metal and some prongs (seated into the concrete). The U provides support in 2 directions, but if wind generated lateral loads run the other way then the load falls to the bolts alone. Are there more shapes for the metal portion? Maybe a square flange?
@@user-dm1tv6nl2e there has to be a square flenge to
I demoed a deck recently that was build using method 3 on here. With the anchors.
I have demoed many decks before in my business, but the 22 year old deck was rotted from decking to joists, but underneath the joists I found the beams (2x10s) and 4x4 posts all in perfect shape with no rot. The posts had never come in contact with ground and all that wood was still reusable after 22 years.. tennessee is wet and humid where I live so decking is a constant replacement, but i will be using method 3 from now on for low load bearing decks.
you're saying the foam is best versus the concrete? Home depot video shows mixing concrete in a wheel barrow so I was surprised to see a method adding dry concrete to the hole.
@@dianesulpizio2542 No, I think he's talking about filling the hole with concrete then placing the post on top using hardware so the post never touches the ground.
@@irafair3015can you elaborate on that? You fill the entire hole with concrete, let it dry, then somehow attach a post on top of the concrete? That connection must be crazy strong. I thought the whole point of getting a third or more of the post underground was to keep the post in place.
if you have to dig no matter what I never get why people set with a method that is going to rot. Just fill the whole thing with concrete - 3rd option - and use a bracket. Even if it rots (much longer than any of the other options) or breaks, it's a matter of just replacing the post in like 5 minutes. Try replacing the post on the other 2 options.
Agree 100%
You're probably right. I guess it depends on when you would want or need to replace a post. I can tell you this. Here in upstate south Carolina the deck on the house I currently live in was built in 1989, posts in ground, like this video demonstrates, and guess what? No rot.
the hardware doesn't last long. it's going to corrode and break off
Glad someone else said it because I never see it in any of these fence videos. I saw the method on a video of This Old House building a deck and I thought that myst obviously be the best way to do it. Concrete pillar with a post attached to it with a fastener.
I read an option to using a metal tie is to coat the base of the post in tar sealer. I'm sticking with the strongtie, even though mine cost $25 each and set in the concrete base.
What if you are building a deck and want to have posts to support the cross beam, and also for the posts to extend say 6 feet above the gound to attach a sail cloth to?
The foam does not work. Within two days it shrinks away from the pole and the circumference of the hole. You end up with a loose post
Simple quick info
I learned more from the comments than the video. After 24 years I sometimes have to replace the 4X4 treated post around my backyard fence that were put in by method 2. Post are rotting at the ground and breaking off. Im about to build a deck and dont want the same problem!
Fill the concrete above ground level.
Just done 4×4 posts at home, 2ft2inch deep, 2inch of stone/gravel then I painted bitumin to just above ground level and filled with postcrete, an old grounworker told me this seems good
@@pete3039 what is bitumin? You painted it from the ground up?
South Florida, no frost line. What would you do for a very light one level deck with a corrugated metal roof?
30 years ago I built my first deck, my father in law helped me. We dug our holes 3 feet deep with post hole diggers, poured 6 inches of concrete in the bottom of the holes and waited 48 hrs! then we put the 4x4s in the hole on top of the crete and filled the rest of the hole with gravel (57s to be exact)... The deck is still standing it gets used everyday, the posts are not rotted.. We have replaced the railing over the years but,only by choice cause mom wanted it changed!! lol....I have since built a bunch of decks in the same way, to my knowledge all of them are doing fine today!!! Dont buy into this crap.. it takes a 4x4 a lifetime to rot!!!
I dont see how s hole with gravel would hold the post securely, especially when the ground heaves from freezing and thawing over years.
that's one of the methods suggested in the video...
@@A.C.71 Because he put the footing deep enough in the ground. The earth below the frost line does not heave. The loose gravel around the post can move with the heaving, allowing the post to remain in one place.
@@rgagnon1008 seems like that process over time would loosed things up
Setting posts in gravel only if very common. It works
Why would you use half a method to prevent rot then go and use the other half to make it rot?
The first method of a sure fire way to have your post rot. Pretty funny.
not if you use treated wood?
Attaching mirador pergola post to concrete footer
Suppose you wanted to make a single free standing post on a concrete pier to make an umbrella inspired trellis (exaggerating to get the point across). I would expect the post needs to be encased in the concrete to achieve sufficient support (cantilever) as using a metal fixture would place any wind loads into the fasteners. Is this assumption correct?
Thanks for this video. I am about to create a post, to be used as my bird feeding station. I am losing my battle to racoons destroying my existing post. In your opinion, do you think the post is strong for racoons?
If you can get away with using creosote on your property ? Rub a even lite film of creosote on your post ! It will deter all critter and insect from your post forever ! It's the same stuff used on telephone/electrical pole .
What if you put the wood on top of the concrete where you use hardware? Post never enters the ground/concrete? More expensive but will it lasts longer?
For a fence, could you use gravel as a base as well as backfill?
No, standard gravel wouldn't allow enough drainage.
Yes, many people set posts entirely with gravel. A deck needs concrete on top of 6" of gravel, but a fence post can set in gravel. Gravel has much better drainage than soil or concrete
I've recently started spraying auto undercoating on the portions of the post that contacts concrete, soils, stone, etc. That does stop the post from absorbing any moisture.
does that method work great as ive thought of that process myself sir?
Allow posts to dry out from the pt process. Spray underground portion with termite spray. After dry, use a cheap 3-4” brush to apply synthetic rubber post coating (found in 1 or 5 gallons at Lowe’s).
If you are embedding lumber in concrete, the most important part to coat is that area where the lumber meets the concrete. Thats primarily where the water enters the wood, and ultimately rots.
Best would be to coat the lumber from bottom to 3-4" above the top of the concrete.
Water will have a difficult time entering the wood as its entire length is water-proofed, both the part embedded, and the part exiting the concrete.
Great video
How do you get all the posts to the same height (exactly)
Make a posts higher, pull a level string across the post mark it and cut
Dies expanding foam get affected by water/weather?
I live up north in sub zero temps and our freeze line is about 3.5 feet deep. I use the cardboard tubing (cut 4 feet, insert in hole and fill with cement) to place my posts. Why ? Because doing it like Mr. Lowe above seems to lift the cement base a few inches every darn Spring so that after 10 years a few of my old fence posts were almost a foot higher than the others. Replaced those with the cardboard tubing method....haven't risen an inch after 5 years.
I just moved to an area with a similar climate (Anchorage), and I'm getting ready to set fence posts. Do you mean you pour concrete intuitive the tubes and the set the post on top of the concrete using hardware?
@@jakeelders1562 Yes on top.
Foam shrinks just enough after fully curing to leave the post wobbly.
Here in mexico we use option 3
The cattle ranchers doing posts will always know better than city deck builders. I have several MILES of fence with all wooden posts, and mine is a smaller operation. No rancher has time or money for concrete, and the posts need to stand up to wind, snow etc. plus 1200 - 1800 pound cattle rubbing up against them all summer. Remember a good fence needs three qualities: 1) horse high, 2) dog tight, 3) Bull tough. You can do a great job without concrete and have it last many years. Mine are doing great and were installed new in 1994. I expect them to outlast me. Carry on!
You haven't said how, Rancher.
@@raysmith2940 Here you go, enjoy. What we do is bore the hole, usually with a hydraulic auger. Mechanical muscle helps! For 6" diameter or 6x6 posts we usually use a 12" auger bit. Our posts are usually round as dimensioned lumber is much more expensive. The posts are all pressure treated. Be careful on what type of pressure treating you get. Some types are just for outdoor use, we always use pressure treating for "ground contact". This means green or brown posts. Leave some loose dirt at the bottom of the hole, set the post into the hole higher than where you want it. Putting in more loose dirt in the bottom as required. When the post is 4 - 6 inches above where you want it hammer it in to the desired height to compact the soil directly under the post. The amount you have to hammer in is a function of the type of soil. Clay based soils will not compress as well as sandy or loamy soils. This is all done to provide a better drainage route at the bottom of the post. Then put 6 - 10 inches of loose dirt in the hole. Then as one person holds the post and a post level you pound and compress the dirt around the post. It should be compressed sufficiently to hold the post in position after this has been done one time. Do not skimp on the tamping. But don't let go of the post yet. The tamping bar and shovels can move the post, so keep ensuring it is straight and positioned where you want it. Then repeat adding 6 - 10 inches of dirt (depending on soil type) and tamp it really well. The quality of the tamping will be reflected in the longevity and condition of the post in the future. We use 8 ft posts and set them to 50" to 60 inches above grade, depending on the type of fence: straight woven wire, woven wire with a single strand of barbed or a single strand of hot wire, three to 7 strands of barbed wire, all hot wires (New Zealand fence) etc. This will give 36" to 46" of post in the ground. You need to ensure your posts are in the ground well below the frost line or each winter they will come out of the ground a bit.
Once you have tamped earth at or just above grade you are done with that post. Now remember that single wooden posts are to keep the fence up, NOT for tensioning the fence. To tension the fence we use an "H brace". These are two vertical posts set the same as above with a horizontal post connecting them. So they look like a short squat "H". Then heave barbless wire is used to connect them diagonally. Making several wraps diagonally will then allow for the wire strands to be twisted to provide a great deal of tension. One diagonal will do, but two is better. Using two diagonals for an "X" will provide even greater fence tensioning strength. This sets up a triangle or two. If you look at bridge structures, radio towers, high voltage electrical towers or high rise construction cranes etc. You will see it is mostly a collection of triangles. The triangle has the greatest inherent strength and will not wobble. On a fence these diagonals can be retensioned if needed in the future.
So stretch your fence material between the H braces using a "comealong" or other mechanical method of tensioning the fence. Then attach the fence to the single posts while keeping tension on the fence material. The fence material will need to be attached to each H brace very well to maintain the tension while the individual posts just hold the fence up. You will need an H brace about every 330 foot as this is the length of most of the fencing materials you will use. So it takes 4 rolls of fencing material per quarter mile of fence, or 16 rolls per mile. Get used to thinking about fence in miles and not feet. Our small property for processing cattle only has 2.5 miles of fence. It was a lot of work to put it up and it's always a chore to maintain it.
On a ranch fencing is on of the chores that never end. No matter how well you feed the animals the "grass is always greener", or for bulls the females are always open on the other side. So "running fence" and making repairs is never ending. But a well constructed fence will make for less repairs down the road.
I have done fence in South Dakota, Minnesota, Ohio and Iowa. These soils are very different from our current property on the high plains of Colorado. The soil type will always affect the strength and longevity of the fence. Unfortunately the better the soil the shorter the life of the fence. This is due to rich soils retaining water much better. Heavy clay soils can be problematic if you set posts when the ground is damp, you'll need to go back and retamp them when everything dries out. Clay shrinks a great deal as it drys and will leave you with loose posts if you don't go back a retamp. We improvised a great tool for doing that in Ohio. We had a pneumatic post pounder for T posts, took an axel from an old car, VW I think, but any will do. Welded a 3 or 4 inch diameter 1+ inch thick circle on the end of it for tamping and temporarily attached it to the ram of the post pounder. Once the clay dried out that gizmo would tamp and compact the clay like concrete. It still took some muscle power, but less than doing it by hand with a better result.
Ray, let me know if need me to elaborate on anything above. Or if you are up for it head on out to Colorado and I can give you lessons. I will personally supervise you and critic your performance until you either have it correct, or the fence is done. Probably the later 8^)
@@johnvossler250 wow man, thanks for the info!! I bought a tamper today. We live near houston and the soil has alot of clay. Most fence posts here fail quickly that are in concrete. Im going to use ur method and also add in some pea gravel to help with drainage (as we get a lot of rain here).
@@johnvossler250 I most definitely want to come learn ranching duties!!
@@LiLDiesel23 Post on concrete fail because the post shrinks and expands with temperature change. When it shrink moisture gets in and with time the post fails. Using a post bracket and screw into a concrete footing is ideal in the long run because if a post ever needs replacing, just in screw it and replace. The concrete footing will outlast several owners.
What is the best out of these for structure?
I'd say the one with entire concrete to avoid wood rot. And you don't have to make the hole again.
I have a question. I was taught to fill the hole first with concrete. Let it set a little. Then sink the lumber into the concrete. I've been doing it that way for years. What's your opinion?
Your post will rot from the bottom up, and you won't know it. Surrounding a post with concrete creates a "cup" that traps water. As gaps will open between the post and cement, allowing water to travel down to the bottom of the square hole it sits in, and then it will soak into the ends of the grain at the bottom of the post.
@@rgagnon1008 I've been installing fences for 20 or so years. I've never had that problem. I fill with round rock, I paint all wood post with asphalt paint.
@@frogmanpipes9561 Setting a post into concrete is NOT what makes it rot.
What makes it rot is using standard PT from the box stores. Check out the different grades of PT wood, there is PT .40, and PT Ground Contact/Burial .60 grade. Either use the proper grade, or paint your posts completely with roofing or asphalt tar before setting.
A post embedded in concrete rots because it is either not Ground Contact/.60, or, water wicks in on the edges of the lumber/concrete interface. Its gets in, travels to the bottom of the lumber inside the concrete, can't go anywhere else, and just sits there as more water tries to enter until it is saturated. It really can't evaporate, and rarely will the ground at depth get dry enough to reverse wick its way out through the concrete. So it sits there, and eventually the wood starts rotting. Coating properly treated wood thats then embedded in concrete should last decades and decades before rotting.
@@boots7859 thanks so much for your advice, never seen any fence builders do it in Houston, wish they did, fences here being replaced all the time, people aren't using your method
@@boots7859 where do you buy ground contact pt wood
'
Plz put sub title in english
Or auto generated subs
Video is so muxh useful and accurate
can somebody please tell me what the guy is doing with the ruler at 0:16??
Buy a bucket of roofing tar. Seal the part of your post that will be in the ground and about 3 inches higher than the the ground level. Just worked on an old man's house who did that in 1989 and his post are still good. He does paint his deck regularly and has replaced some decking boards, but the deck is still safe and solid overall.
mix concrete in wheelbarrow, then pour it in the hole, or you might get air pockets in it
doesn't that ruin the wheelbarrow?? Or do you line it with plastic first? What kind of concrete should I buy? I'm only putting in 2 posts. If I want 5 feet tall posts, how far down do I need to go below the ground?
@@dianesulpizio2542 Use an old wheelbarrow just for that purpose. I think wet pouring concrete is a much better option than the dry pour they show in the video.
I do mine with pvc jackets rebar at the bottom so moisture can never get to the wood and a cap at the top. Got post on my property over 20 years old ... the way this guy is doin it you might get 10 years lol even with pressure treated expecting my builds to last over 50 plus years easy with or without pressure treated wood I still use pressure treated humidity is always a factor
can you expand on what you mean by pvc jackets? As in you have a 4x4 post in a 4" abs/pvc plumbing piece like 36" into the ground. Then you pour in concrete? with 6" gravel tamped on the bottom? Or do you have actual fabricated 4" square pvc jackets fabricated from somewhere? thanks!
wait, you can use foam to secure the post? doesnt look very stabile
It's not at all stable. Its the most stupid invention ever
@@homosapien4833 Well... maybe if they want to plant a garden of toothpicks standing straight up it might be worth looking into 😀
Do N O T soil around the top of the post.
The end.
Just remember to check for underground utility lines before digging your post holes.
Avoid the hassle and futility, first call MS. UTILITY!!
@Drew Pierce for sure! Someone ran into my friend's wooden fence. Her son called to have lines marked, & turns out the ex had set the original posts right on top of city water line!
Absolutely
this guy just said the hole needs to be above ground...
Yeah buddy
Steamed Ice.
I thought post were Plumb not level?
i ThOuGhT pOsT wErE pLumB nOt LeVeL
Lol.
You are correct
Why put rocks down instead of concrete at the bottom of the hole? Is it to drain water away? And I would fill the concrete higher than ground level then slope away from the post.
but how do you bring it higher than the ground? Put some kind of form on the ground for the concrete?
@@dianesulpizio2542 Yes, I seen people use a type of sleeve around the post then they fill the sleeve with concrete. I don't know if that's the way it should be done but I have seen it done that way.
I’ve been do some research since I need to replace my backyard fence that a contractor installed wrong. I’m going with galvanized poles 9 like you use for chain link fencing, since that will eliminate the rotting wood Issues. .
Question though, should I use concrete, or this quick setting foam stuff. Las Vegas heat, no water minus when it rains.
DeadSkinMask32 I would do concrete
love how clean his tools are lol
How do you remove a post like that if the post rots away and all you got is concrete I need to replace a post that the previous owners put up because it rotted away and I can't figure out how to get that concrete out of the hole
I'm contemplating the same issue. I think instead of chipping out the old concrete I'm going to cover it and put the new posts between the originals. If everything goes well I'll be dead before the fence has to be replaced.
Maybe just leave the old concrete, drill a hole in it, and mount metal bracket in there with some 'liquid anchor' or sth, and mount new post in the bracket? They mentions bracket in this video. They are calling it 'hardware'.
I used a chain and engine hoist.
1 dig around the concrete enough to wrap a chain around it. Secure it with a quick link or hook.
2 center the engine hoist around the concrete and bring the chain up to the hook. Again, secure with quick link.
3 Pump away on the hoist, the entire concrete plug pops out of the ground.
Lower the plug into a wheelbarrow or lay sideways and sledge it into pieces.
Use a 4x4 post bracket. Cut the old post out, make it so it's flush with the concrete, and lag the bracket into the crete. Set new post and fasten to bracket
The video says “fence post holes ONLY need to be about one third to one half of the height of the post above ground, and three times the width of the post wide”. Does that mean that if my fence posts are 4"x4" and 6 ft above ground, then the hole needs to be 1' x 1' and 3 ft deep in the most conservative scenario?
If your above ground height is 6 feet one third of that is 2 feet.
Not liking the expanding foam option
MOST IMPORTANTLY CALL 811 BEFORE YOU DIG❗
Why is gravel needed at the base of the hole? I'm asking because I'm installing a mailbox and wondering if that step needs to take place for my job as well.
For water to escape out the bottom.
YOu don't want gravel there, you want cement there to seal it. Gravel creates a lake.
@@irhusker6569 Actually incorrect.... Gravel helps the water get away from the footings and post quicker than it would in soil. Soil HOLDS the water. Gravel lets is drip down to the soil, getting away from the concrete or post.
Expanding foam. I hope no one does this. If you want it to last use concrete
I just pulled 10 4x4 pressure treated posts out of the bare ground, fence so old it was falling apart. Out of 10 posts, two were rotten at the ground and the the other 8 looked like new.
Okay. What is your point?
1:20 As far as I heard recently the wood should not have contact with a concrete, because the wood will get moist and rotten due to the capillary action of the concrete. What is your opinion?
@@BugJuiceFlavor What kind of climate do you live in? What is your experience in concrete and wood works?
Concrete to the top.
Never put your post in cement. I did that a long time ago and learned my lesson. When you have to replace the post, it's now embedded in a rock. Cement also pulls in moisture thus enhancing the rotting process of the post.
Just do pressure treated.
@@kbanghart will still rot.
@@Jason-uw3wn meh
@@kbanghart 😂
so what to do? maybe wrap some plastic around the post like a sleeve? What do you suggest?
it's important you do not completely incase the bottom and sides of the post in concrete as this video shows. It does not allow the post to release moisture.
This video is useful because it tells us what NOT TO DO.
Explain
Soil microbes degrade wood, moisture is a factor but not so much. Consider ancient boat timbers found at the bottom of lakes and oceans. Even still, good drainage is important. Also, keep soil away from the bottom of the pickets, as well. Stain anyone?
Holes need to be 3x the width of the post? So for a 6x6 post I need to dig an 18" wide hole? 🤔
yeah I don't get it why u need a hole that wide something isn't right.
3x the width of a 6x6 is 16.5"... This is the width for the cement FOOTING, so the hole has to be as wide in order to access the bottom of it. The reason is BUILDING CODE, but the purpose is to have enough surface so the weight bears properly.
why not just tape seal the posts. waterproof and perhaps air tight
Because water will be drawn into the exposed wood through capillary action and gravity eventually drags the water underground and you end up with permanent water saturation of the underground portion of the post.
Concrete is the only way
Water and moisture is always your enemy around wood off any kind
I can use expanding foam with a deck post ?
No
I wouldn't
Expanding foam for ANY kind of post is stupid.
Expansion foam does not work nearly as well as concrete. I personally wouldn't use it at all. After it dries/cures you can wiggle the pole around in the hole a lot so I would not use it for decking. Its ok for setting a mailbox post but I would not use it for decking posts.
The post rots under ground because it doesn't drain but that is why they show the gravel base. The ground still holds water though. It's OK for temporary docks to have wood posts under ground but a permanent deck post should be above ground. There are steel spikes that can go on the bottom end of your post to stick into the ground and another kind that screws in. For docks I use PT and spike the end with a skill saw then waterjet them in with a garden hose.
Never seen anybody put gravel under a post but often wondered about wrapping them in dpc or bitumen paint.
Kreativ ( deutsche Sprache ) - kreativ ( english language ) - Kreativ ( svenska språk )
What’s up
Wood in concrete ... should have been metal pole..
That's what I would do.
Concrete base and fill with gravel? Hahahahahah
Gravel at the bottom is silly use concrete to actually seal the post not expose the bottom to moisture like a candle wick.
😂😮 I do carpenter in the street tomorrow.Will you give me some 2 by force?I really need some wood and let me know if Ford escort.So can you give me some cubic tubes?Do I do bring it to this part location to 19?Quinn road i'm real
2ft down for a post / 450mm is plenty.
John Clark no. Best is always 90cm/3ft to reach frost free
@@hedegaard8 just pulled a 6' privacy wood fence out of the ground. 20 years, set in dirt/sand and 2' ABOVE the frost line and fence was completely level. No heaving.
hedegaard8 we don’t have frost below 4 inches in Louisiana lol
Depth of post hole varies with location. Check local building codes or your city's building department for the frost line in your area, and go at least 6" below that. Also... post holes within 5' of the exterior of the house have to match the depth of the foundation of the home.---Due to the backfill being loose around that area. You need to get to "virgin" soil to support the load, or the deck will sink near the house.
Love how they forget to mention to tar the bottom of the post. That will double the life of the wood. But of course lowes wants your wood to rot so you buy more.
@ Kai Marshall. I think the end of the post is treated as well with end coat
@@pargolf3158 you want the water that can get into the post to go somewhere other than hanging out in the post, let gravity take the water down.
@@jasonsameasmydads6673 you mean density not a magical nonsense thing that doesnt exist
How about check for buried electric lines before digging?
When i went to school to become a constructionworker they said "you can never set wood directly onto cencrete because that is going to create or suck up moisture" Is that wrong or is the dude in the video wrong?
They are right. Wood posts done in this fashion have a limited life. Wood fences in general have a limited life. You can hope for 25 years if you do everything right.
I just tore down the fence around my property. It was built about 27 years ago and was already falling apart. Each post were pressure treated ground contact and set in concrete. Every post were rotten away so all I had to do was give it a slight push and it fell.
The dude never set the post end on concrete. The vase was gravel.
Yes, filling the top of the hole with dirt looks nice, but unless you want to reduce the life of the posts by 1/3, leave the concrete exposed, and seal around where the wood meet the concrete. Wood and wet soil don’t mix.
@@MtKatahdinClimber Newest research has proven that where the wood meets the concrete is where the most water enters, and eventually saturates the wood, and even PT Ground Contact/Burial rated wood will rot. If you have to put PT wood in concrete, take an extra day and 'paint' all your PT wood with a quality water-proofing like roofing tar.
Never allow earth to wood contact.
Subtitles please... I’m deaf
Never put a post in concert! The bottom will rot out. Always put gravel/dirt then concrete so the post had a ring on concrete around it. Water needs to escape into the ground!
This is wrong as the post will rot, the wood will absorbe water from the top and from the concrete under. The best way is to use a bracket! Do not waste your time, thank me later ;)
I’m committed to using brackets. It’s a bitch to change the wood and raise the deck with hydraulics.
@Flip Arrachi cool, except it's not just the wood, it's the labor of pulling up all the concrete that's attached to the "cheap" wood. I'll bet you're a lot of fun at parties lol
Foam…UGH…no!!!
i've never seen someone pour dry concrete mix and add water on top lol. The bottom 50% of the mix is still dry as hell and will never cure properly.
Nope. Quickcrete 50lb red bags are meant to do this. Stuff is awesome.
@@rgagnon1008 I still do about half and add water then more powder, keeps dust down for one thing, but even if dry then water, it will slowly take in the water from the ground to cure the leftovers.
U.
L
Probably to /
Z to t up mom 😀
DO NOT USE EXPANDING FOAM! IT DOES NOT HOLD YOUR STRUCTURAL POST STURDY!
Plumb posts. Not level
Horrible advice to tell people to top the hole with soil. Horrible.
kids
NO NO NO
Why, why, why? Please explain why no.
First ( ps i liked my own coment because noone will ) hi from Indonesia
You did not just put in dry concrete and then water after! OMG. Premix it in a wheelbarrow first
It’s postcrete, that’s how your supposed to do it, personally I pour a little water into the hole and then some post Crete then more water more Crete
Okay but what if we don’t have all this specialized equipment 🙄🙄 ugh unhelpful
Specialized equipment? What specialized equipment? Those where just basic tools used for the job.
All 3 are terrible and the wood will rot.
What is the solution? I will be doing this in the near future and I want to do it right.
I just hit them into the soil lasts over 10 years
Do you live in a place where there's not much ground moisture?