Hope to see a stone holder for this system soon, It is a Professional system and priced as one (so that part is crucial for ANY Pro system). Higher grit diamond plates would also be welcomed, at least up to 1200-1500. And as with any professional tool, you need a hard case for when you want to bring the system somewhere or even storage. A hard case should be relatively easy to have made and sold separately at a later date. As it is, It looks like a great system with even greater potential 🙂
Got mine and love it!! However are you going to make a case or storage box other than the cardboard box? Something like your precision adjust tool? I would be interested in a nice (and inexpensive!) storage/travel case for the Precision Adjust.
This a great system, I’ve been using it. The downside is with big knives you will not be able to maintain same secondary bevel angle, you going to have 2 degrees average difference on tip and heel of knife if you trying to sharpen chef knife 8” long , you have to do it by section which take really long time if you want to be really precise and picky
You should have made the tightening nut/wheel on the clamp out of metal, ive stripped the threads on one already,, plastic thread on metal is weak and cheap. Otherwise im happy with the elite, although it's hard to sharpen smaller blades like swiss army blades.
Happy to have got one. I set an alarm for 1pm EST, had the link on the home screen for my phone. Albeit the link didnt show the add to cart option for at least 10 min after and the website was giving me the 502 bad gateway from all the internet traffic, i continued to try. Eventually i got to the checkout screen and was able to process the order.
Buying it was a nightmare but shipping was lightning fast and the system is almost everything you could want. One issue I'm running into though is with Spydercos - Did my pm2 fine although the clamp situation was awkward with the distal taper and the way the backstop only has one point of contact. Para 3 was too small and I was grinding the clamp when going for the tip. Assuming this will be a frequently sharpened knife on these systems if you guys could make a tips video or something covering this it'd be helpful. The small knife table didn't seem like a good option again because of the distal taper and flat grind so I wound up just using the PA elite because that clamp gets a better purchase being smaller and all.
Thanks for the feedback! I'll try to address this but our customer service team can definitely help you out if need be. You can reach them at info@ worksharptools.com. Now for my take, 😉 The Para 3 (great knife) should not be an issue for the PRO PA. I just clamped one up that was brand new and when matching the factory grind of 17° (per side) it cleared the clamp. If you go much steeper than that, I can see it hitting though. Another thing to consider would be where you are clamping the blade. Make sure you have it centered and not too far up towards the scales. We plan to have a tips and tricks video out soon and I'll make sure to include Spyderco blades in it! If you already tried these tips or are still having trouble our CS team will get you taken care of I assure you. 👍
@@WorkSharpOutdoor thanks for the super quick response. Yeah - I sharpen all my edc knives at 15 so I'll have to try some things out. The pro pa gets right up to the heel whereas the elite always left a little gap where the plastic on the tribrasive prevents the stones from getting flush up against it.
I just ordered mine on the 5th (July, 23) and it arrived days later. I had no problems with my order. I went directly to their website. I got the PROFESSIONAL PRECISION ADJUST™ KNIFE SHARPENER, which comes with the small blade attachment, and it works fine. So, I'm wondering what kind of issues you encountered.
For a professional sharpening system it really needs to come with 1000 or really a 1200-1500 grit stone. 800 is pretty low end in my eyes unfortunately. But I’m guessing aftermarket will take care of me on that
Well it depends if they use FEPA F or JIS R6001 units... A lot of people use japanese units, but I suppose Worksharp use FEPA F as they use FEPA Paper for the Ken Onion belt sharpener. So F800 (FEPA F) would be roughly J2000 grit (JIS), or 6.5 μm average, or something like P3000 (FEPA P) which I agree is not the absolute finest that exists, but still damn fine and wayyyyyy enough for cutting things. In my eyes anything finer than F600/J1500 or even F400/J1000 , is luxury, and you can always use paste on strop etc Please let me know if I'm wrong !
Agreed, 1200-1500 plate is a must. They also need a stone holder for other high quality stones, now that they market and priced it as a Professional system so they can compete with their competition in the same price range.
Are there any plans to release a longer rod? I have a 12" brisket knife that i won't sharpen on my Ken Onion. I have been looking really hard at a sharpener like this, but the Wicked Edge is one of the few that I have seen that can accommodate that big of a knife. It is the only thing holding me back from this sharpener. It looks great otherwise, and as others have mentioned, more fine grit availability would be nice.
Looking forward to adding this to my knife sharpening business, all my products are from Work Sharp. Unfortunately I know it won’t be tomorrow at 10 am for it being high in demand and all. Hopefully soon?
Hi there thanks for the video. A quick question: after lapping knives, would you recommend to still use like honinh rods and ceramic rods to keep the edge of the knife, to not resharp them too soon or you'd just go back on the work sharp pro? Thanks in advance.
Same here, we need a replacement clamp for the precision adjust elite, like the small one for smaller knives like swiss army knives which I have a ton of.
It would be good to see a video that addresses how to sharpen in detail for example my first knives i sharpened on it i have rounded the tips and sharpened away the belly any tips to avoid this.
Just received my Pro Precision Adjust and am wondering if there is a guide for setting the recommended degrees for kitchen knives, or other knives for that matter?
The user guide that came with the sharpener has you covered. That said, here is a good rule of thumb: kitchen knives 15°-20° pocket knives 20°-25° outdoor knives for chopping/bush crafting 25°-30°
@@WorkSharpOutdoor thank you for this, this is helpful. FYI, my user guide did not come with any information for suggested or recommended degrees for knives.
The blade holder needs to be redone on the lines of the KME Wide thin blades are a NO Go because of the lack of holder support to keep the blade from flexing is too shallow. Shame as it works well on knifes like Spyderco PM2. I personally would purchase coarser and finer diamonds when available and will ignore wide thin blades. On the other hand the holder adjustment on thicker knifes totally binds up and cannot be unbound. This is clearly a first generation version of this sharpener which needs serious improvements if a wider assortment of blades are to be attempted.
It’s not quite as idiot proof as I thought. Especially since the first time I tried it I was only willing to sharpen an old buck knife from when I was a kid and it never had an edge on it, and a few knives from Canadian tire. The factory edges didn’t have a consistent angle on any of them. That and I had no idea why but getting a full burr was completely impossible. I had no idea if I’d done too much, or not enough. I didn’t know if I was using too much or too little pressure, I didn’t want to strip the plastic nut on the v-clamp, so the knife moved around in it a little, and I had no idea if I had worked on one side of the knife more than the other. This is going to take some practice. I’m going to need to put my benchmades away until I figure this out on cheaper knives.
Dude I appreciate this info, I plan on picking up one of these soon, I have the first model and was hoping the little skill I have would carry over, we'll see I guess
@@fredchevalier2333 It’ll carry over. It was the first precision knife sharpening system I ever owned and I was working a very difficult knife. I’ve done a few blades now and I’m getting better each time. I do feel like the v clamp has trouble holding the knife and having the knife not move in the clamp. It has pretty severe wiggle. That’s a pretty big problem and if they have plans to fix that I might hold out on buying one until the next model comes out. Or if we’re lucky they’ll just make a new clamp that’s compatible with the current model. Not that I’ve heard of any such plans.
I have had mine only 3 days and the wheel that tightens the knife holder completely locked up, I didn't over do it just a firm finger tighten to hold the knife in place. I registered it this morning for warranty and it happened an hour ago. Frustrating to say the least. I emailed customer service and hope they get back to me tomorrow.
Our Customer Service team will take care of it. This happens most often when the clamp is backed all the way out. That may not be the case here but something to check out.
The original box is meant to be used for keeping it safe and for transport. I just wish it had a handle. They have a case for the elite version, but not the pro.
i've used this for my pocket knives but the grit is too high, i wouldn't get this anywhere near my japanese knives even if the angle was perfect. you need high grit whetstones for high end japanese cutlery. some japanese knives have such a high polish you can't even wipe them down with a damp dish cloth.
@@LastBastian because the level of polish is so high or the blade still has it’s original lacquer from the knife maker. Japanese kitchen cutlery is sometimes made from highly reactive carbon steel so they lacquer the blade before shipping. Or look up Japanese katana polishing, some of the same techniques are used on sakimaru Takohiki which is a really long sushi knife that looks like a katana
@@samueljackson856 Tradition is one thing, but no harm will come from wiping a blade with a soft damp cloth. Unless it's a non-user show piece covered in whatever coating that you don't want to wipe off.
The release is an absolute cluster. I was really looking forward to ordering it. After not being able to log in on either drop day to buy it I’m done trying. I’ll go with TSProf instead. Shame, because I really wanted to get one.
bro, if you have russian TSProf you definitely don't need "this" one )) At least if you have the hi-end latest ver. of K03 pro. Considering the price for "that thing" from WS, the TS Prof is definitely the best option in all the ways )
speaking of these "premium" abrasives as it says on site lol - is this the simple electroplating ligament..? Man, this is the worst and cheapest abrasives the other world usually says; I guess this is a bit opposite to the WS statements. Cheers from Russia ))
No matter the sharpening system you want to approach tanto blades like each section of knife is its own blade. Here is a whole video we have on the subject. ruclips.net/video/fUErPY5qXog/видео.html
I'd find it very hard to sharpen in one direction only on a large kitchen knife say, , in previous worksharp videos ive seen them sharpening in both directions so which is correct?
@@6900pilot I honestly don't know which is correct.. using up and down strokes will sharpen a knife a lot faster versus using only sweeping strokes.. I use a DMT system and they show in their videos to use sweeping strokes but the instructions say to use up-and-down strokes and a sweeping stroke as your final stroke
@@6900pilot I think they show it this way because of the huuuuuge flex the knife would make. That clamp is for pocket knives and bushcraft knives at best. The clamp should be at least 3 times wider to be effective at holding longer and thinner knives.
@@desertchild. up and down is just fine. In their paper instructions included with it they actually show to do up and down there as well. The angle is being held where you want it already so there is no problem doing that. It would take you eons if you were to reprofile an edge from say a 20° down to a 17° by doing only upstrokes.
better off buying the basic precision and then buying after market 3D printed attachments. you can then buy and use better stones. They made this system and used proprietary stones again and added nothing of substance to it as there are 3D attachments already being made for these such as scissor or small knife holders. Also you can buy an angle indicator for $20. Basic precision with all the attachments you'll need $100-150 then good stones that will last a long time another $150. Anyone wanting to drop $300 should look at better systems that don't limit you to their proprietary stones.
This isna garbage system!! Its a KME knockoff but better introduced. 800 grit? Are you serious?? You have to hone your blade either before ir after every use! Then you would only need a touch up from a 1000 stone at the lowest. My 2k and 3k Shaptons will cut steel like butter. 800 lmfao you insult your customers! No one is buying this for a repair job. So include 400, 800, 2000, ceramic and 1k wet.
Hope to see a stone holder for this system soon, It is a Professional system and priced as one (so that part is crucial for ANY Pro system). Higher grit diamond plates would also be welcomed, at least up to 1200-1500. And as with any professional tool, you need a hard case for when you want to bring the system somewhere or even storage. A hard case should be relatively easy to have made and sold separately at a later date. As it is, It looks like a great system with even greater potential 🙂
Got mine and love it!! However are you going to make a case or storage box other than the cardboard box? Something like your precision adjust tool? I would be interested in a nice (and inexpensive!) storage/travel case for the Precision Adjust.
This a great system, I’ve been using it. The downside is with big knives you will not be able to maintain same secondary bevel angle, you going to have 2 degrees average difference on tip and heel of knife if you trying to sharpen chef knife 8” long , you have to do it by section which take really long time if you want to be really precise and picky
You should have made the tightening nut/wheel on the clamp out of metal, ive stripped the threads on one already,, plastic thread on metal is weak and cheap. Otherwise im happy with the elite, although it's hard to sharpen smaller blades like swiss army blades.
Very impressive sharpener!
I bought one today ! Got it imported to India ☺️ perfect tool for my elmax and s35vn steels
Happy to have got one. I set an alarm for 1pm EST, had the link on the home screen for my phone. Albeit the link didnt show the add to cart option for at least 10 min after and the website was giving me the 502 bad gateway from all the internet traffic, i continued to try. Eventually i got to the checkout screen and was able to process the order.
Buying it was a nightmare but shipping was lightning fast and the system is almost everything you could want.
One issue I'm running into though is with Spydercos - Did my pm2 fine although the clamp situation was awkward with the distal taper and the way the backstop only has one point of contact. Para 3 was too small and I was grinding the clamp when going for the tip. Assuming this will be a frequently sharpened knife on these systems if you guys could make a tips video or something covering this it'd be helpful. The small knife table didn't seem like a good option again because of the distal taper and flat grind so I wound up just using the PA elite because that clamp gets a better purchase being smaller and all.
Thanks for the feedback! I'll try to address this but our customer service team can definitely help you out if need be. You can reach them at info@ worksharptools.com.
Now for my take, 😉 The Para 3 (great knife) should not be an issue for the PRO PA. I just clamped one up that was brand new and when matching the factory grind of 17° (per side) it cleared the clamp. If you go much steeper than that, I can see it hitting though.
Another thing to consider would be where you are clamping the blade. Make sure you have it centered and not too far up towards the scales. We plan to have a tips and tricks video out soon and I'll make sure to include Spyderco blades in it!
If you already tried these tips or are still having trouble our CS team will get you taken care of I assure you. 👍
@@WorkSharpOutdoor thanks for the super quick response.
Yeah - I sharpen all my edc knives at 15 so I'll have to try some things out. The pro pa gets right up to the heel whereas the elite always left a little gap where the plastic on the tribrasive prevents the stones from getting flush up against it.
I just ordered mine on the 5th (July, 23) and it arrived days later. I had no problems with my order. I went directly to their website.
I got the PROFESSIONAL PRECISION ADJUST™ KNIFE SHARPENER, which comes with the small blade attachment, and it works fine. So, I'm wondering what kind of issues you encountered.
For a professional sharpening system it really needs to come with 1000 or really a 1200-1500 grit stone. 800 is pretty low end in my eyes unfortunately. But I’m guessing aftermarket will take care of me on that
Well it depends if they use FEPA F or JIS R6001 units... A lot of people use japanese units, but I suppose Worksharp use FEPA F as they use FEPA Paper for the Ken Onion belt sharpener.
So F800 (FEPA F) would be roughly J2000 grit (JIS), or 6.5 μm average, or something like P3000 (FEPA P) which I agree is not the absolute finest that exists, but still damn fine and wayyyyyy enough for cutting things. In my eyes anything finer than F600/J1500 or even F400/J1000 , is luxury, and you can always use paste on strop etc
Please let me know if I'm wrong !
Agreed, 1200-1500 plate is a must. They also need a stone holder for other high quality stones, now that they market and priced it as a Professional system so they can compete with their competition in the same price range.
Are there any plans to release a longer rod? I have a 12" brisket knife that i won't sharpen on my Ken Onion. I have been looking really hard at a sharpener like this, but the Wicked Edge is one of the few that I have seen that can accommodate that big of a knife. It is the only thing holding me back from this sharpener. It looks great otherwise, and as others have mentioned, more fine grit availability would be nice.
Looking forward to adding this to my knife sharpening business, all my products are from Work Sharp. Unfortunately I know it won’t be tomorrow at 10 am for it being high in demand and all. Hopefully soon?
Yup, Yup, Buying this immediately!
Does it water which way around you put the stones on i notice on mine that the holes in the stones are different?
do you have finer grit stones available ? like over 1000 grits, for japanese knives I think they use 3000 and 6000
Hi there thanks for the video.
A quick question: after lapping knives, would you recommend to still use like honinh rods and ceramic rods to keep the edge of the knife, to not resharp them too soon or you'd just go back on the work sharp pro?
Thanks in advance.
There absolutely needs to be some sort of upgrade program for the original Precision Adjust Elite owners.
Amen! Bought mine only two weeks before this came out!😡
I absolutely agree!
I completely agree! I got my original Precision Adjust about 6 weeks ago.
Same here, we need a replacement clamp for the precision adjust elite, like the small one for smaller knives like swiss army knives which I have a ton of.
I gifted mine to my mum as she doesn't want this much control but this new one for me is perfect
It would be good to see a video that addresses how to sharpen in detail for example my first knives i sharpened on it i have rounded the tips and sharpened away the belly any tips to avoid this.
Just got mine, love it, but I have to agree with the other comments here. It's crazy to me you don't have a case available for this expensive tool.
My only question is about the thickness of the blade that it can accommodate. Looks like under 6mm.
Just received my Pro Precision Adjust and am wondering if there is a guide for setting the recommended degrees for kitchen knives, or other knives for that matter?
The user guide that came with the sharpener has you covered. That said, here is a good rule of thumb: kitchen knives 15°-20° pocket knives 20°-25° outdoor knives for chopping/bush crafting 25°-30°
@@WorkSharpOutdoor thank you for this, this is helpful. FYI, my user guide did not come with any information for suggested or recommended degrees for knives.
The blade holder needs to be redone on the lines of the KME Wide thin blades are a NO Go because of the lack of holder support to keep the blade from flexing is too shallow. Shame as it works well on knifes like Spyderco PM2. I personally would purchase coarser and finer diamonds when available and will ignore wide thin blades. On the other hand the holder adjustment on thicker knifes totally binds up and cannot be unbound. This is clearly a first generation version of this sharpener which needs serious improvements if a wider assortment of blades are to be attempted.
It’s not quite as idiot proof as I thought. Especially since the first time I tried it I was only willing to sharpen an old buck knife from when I was a kid and it never had an edge on it, and a few knives from Canadian tire. The factory edges didn’t have a consistent angle on any of them. That and I had no idea why but getting a full burr was completely impossible. I had no idea if I’d done too much, or not enough. I didn’t know if I was using too much or too little pressure, I didn’t want to strip the plastic nut on the v-clamp, so the knife moved around in it a little, and I had no idea if I had worked on one side of the knife more than the other. This is going to take some practice. I’m going to need to put my benchmades away until I figure this out on cheaper knives.
Dude I appreciate this info, I plan on picking up one of these soon, I have the first model and was hoping the little skill I have would carry over, we'll see I guess
@@fredchevalier2333 It’ll carry over. It was the first precision knife sharpening system I ever owned and I was working a very difficult knife. I’ve done a few blades now and I’m getting better each time. I do feel like the v clamp has trouble holding the knife and having the knife not move in the clamp. It has pretty severe wiggle. That’s a pretty big problem and if they have plans to fix that I might hold out on buying one until the next model comes out. Or if we’re lucky they’ll just make a new clamp that’s compatible with the current model. Not that I’ve heard of any such plans.
I have had mine only 3 days and the wheel that tightens the knife holder completely locked up, I didn't over do it just a firm finger tighten to hold the knife in place. I registered it this morning for warranty and it happened an hour ago. Frustrating to say the least. I emailed customer service and hope they get back to me tomorrow.
Our Customer Service team will take care of it. This happens most often when the clamp is backed all the way out. That may not be the case here but something to check out.
Говно, самое настоящее говно!!!
What to do, when you have set the angle to 15 degrees in the midle of the knife, and it then show 14,25 on both sides/ends?
Hey, I've got a question. Would it be advisable to use the WSPA on a blade with a very slight recurve? The kizer grazioso in particular.
Hi,
How do you clamp a tapered knife like the Spyderco Para 3 into your PROFESSIONAL PRECISION ADJUST KNIFE SHARPENER?
When can I get it in Germany?
Any issues with marking up the blade with the clamp?
No it’s rubber
I just wish this system would have also been offered with a case to store it in. As some people dont have the space to show it off lol
The original box is meant to be used for keeping it safe and for transport. I just wish it had a handle. They have a case for the elite version, but not the pro.
It's also unfortunate you don't monitor and respond to comments on your RUclips channel.
Sorry for the delay! Appreciate the feedback on the case, we are working on a solution there, stay tuned!
I'll Grant you it's innovative.
Wish the sharpening procedures were the same as the book instructions
Do I need to clean the abrasives? If so, what do I use?
You can use a stiff bristle brush to remove any build up of grit.
By the way your welcome for the magnetic plate ideas 😜
Can this sharpener work on scissors?
I wish there was angle setting for Japanese kitchen knives that have 9-12 degree.
i've used this for my pocket knives but the grit is too high, i wouldn't get this anywhere near my japanese knives even if the angle was perfect. you need high grit whetstones for high end japanese cutlery. some japanese knives have such a high polish you can't even wipe them down with a damp dish cloth.
@@samueljackson856 Why would you not be able to wipe a knife with a damp cloth?
@@LastBastian because the level of polish is so high or the blade still has it’s original lacquer from the knife maker. Japanese kitchen cutlery is sometimes made from highly reactive carbon steel so they lacquer the blade before shipping. Or look up Japanese katana polishing, some of the same techniques are used on sakimaru Takohiki which is a really long sushi knife that looks like a katana
@@LastBastian in Japan, blade polishing is a profession and some spend their life learning it. There are whole cities dedicated to blade making there
@@samueljackson856 Tradition is one thing, but no harm will come from wiping a blade with a soft damp cloth. Unless it's a non-user show piece covered in whatever coating that you don't want to wipe off.
El fijador vino defectuoso y se afloja el tornillo de la guía.
No encuentro una llave que sea justa.
Alguien sabe que llave Allen es necesaria?
I can’t seem to find the price for this anywhere. Can anyone help me out lol? Thanks
$300
$250-$300
Scandi friendly?
For the price I'd like to see a plastic storage tray/box
Whats the price on these
$300
The release is an absolute cluster. I was really looking forward to ordering it. After not being able to log in on either drop day to buy it I’m done trying. I’ll go with TSProf instead. Shame, because I really wanted to get one.
bro, if you have russian TSProf you definitely don't need "this" one )) At least if you have the hi-end latest ver. of K03 pro. Considering the price for "that thing" from WS, the TS Prof is definitely the best option in all the ways )
speaking of these "premium" abrasives as it says on site lol - is this the simple electroplating ligament..? Man, this is the worst and cheapest abrasives the other world usually says; I guess this is a bit opposite to the WS statements. Cheers from Russia ))
Thank you
The only problem I see is as you travel toward the tip it is further from the pivot point so the angle changes.
...which becomes more and more of an issue the longer the blade is.
Not much of an issue on smaller knives though.
I keep looking for answers on this, how do I stop it
@@little_firby5574 It's geometry. I don't think you can avoid it on a system like this.
@@LastBastian damn
How would you sharpen tanto blades ??
No matter the sharpening system you want to approach tanto blades like each section of knife is its own blade. Here is a whole video we have on the subject. ruclips.net/video/fUErPY5qXog/видео.html
ORDERED ONE YESTERDAY FROM DLT TRADING CANT WAIT TO TRY IT OUT
I need this in Germany… hurry up
구매 할수있는 방법을
가르쳐주세요
Не покупай. Пожалеешь.
Wish it had a bag to carry, 110 plate, and 1000,1200,1500 plates
So one sweeping stroke instead of up and strokes, that's different compared to every other system on the market.
I'd find it very hard to sharpen in one direction only on a large kitchen knife say, , in previous worksharp videos ive seen them sharpening in both directions so which is correct?
@@6900pilot I honestly don't know which is correct.. using up and down strokes will sharpen a knife a lot faster versus using only sweeping strokes.. I use a DMT system and they show in their videos to use sweeping strokes but the instructions say to use up-and-down strokes and a sweeping stroke as your final stroke
ruclips.net/video/F8JAPErskRU/видео.html Same RUclips Channel
@@6900pilot I think they show it this way because of the huuuuuge flex the knife would make. That clamp is for pocket knives and bushcraft knives at best. The clamp should be at least 3 times wider to be effective at holding longer and thinner knives.
@@desertchild. up and down is just fine. In their paper instructions included with it they actually show to do up and down there as well. The angle is being held where you want it already so there is no problem doing that. It would take you eons if you were to reprofile an edge from say a 20° down to a 17° by doing only upstrokes.
БАЖАЮ!!!! )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
better off buying the basic precision and then buying after market 3D printed attachments. you can then buy and use better stones. They made this system and used proprietary stones again and added nothing of substance to it as there are 3D attachments already being made for these such as scissor or small knife holders. Also you can buy an angle indicator for $20. Basic precision with all the attachments you'll need $100-150 then good stones that will last a long time another $150. Anyone wanting to drop $300 should look at better systems that don't limit you to their proprietary stones.
This isna garbage system!! Its a KME knockoff but better introduced. 800 grit? Are you serious?? You have to hone your blade either before ir after every use! Then you would only need a touch up from a 1000 stone at the lowest. My 2k and 3k Shaptons will cut steel like butter.
800 lmfao you insult your customers! No one is buying this for a repair job. So include 400, 800, 2000, ceramic and 1k wet.