Savvy Mid Arm Upgrade Install Overview
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- Опубликовано: 21 дек 2020
- This video provides an overview of the install process of the Savvy mid arm.
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Last updated: May 11, 2023 
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I love the shop lighting, it’s nice and bright.
Watched this on my tv, searched up on my phone just to comment and subscribe, super helpful vid, you guys need more subscribers because this was a great video, much appreciated 👍💪
Thanks for the kind words! I am trying to get more subscribers but it takes time and for people like yourself to comment and like. I also do giveaways. The last giveaway was a real CJ grille so stay tuned for the next one which should be very soon! Make sure you subscription is public so I can see it. Thanks and spread the word!
Looks great. Can't wait to wheel with him to see it work. Great job guys.
I appreciate the quality of your videos, maybe not in regards to production value, but very informative from a DIY stand point. Your re-gear videos were full of information and super helpful, much appreciated. Subscribed.
I really appreciate the kind words! My goal with the videos is all about helping others DIY. I would love higher quality production but it's just too scripted and time consuming to do. Keep it simple seems to work👍
@@TheBFHGarage I wasn't trying to knock you in regards to the "production value" portion of my comment. I see how that probably came across a bit crass, not my intention. I just meant you choose to put the focus on your content (how it should be) vs. worrying about shot framing and lighting and all the other nonessentials. You definitely don't need a full studio setup to produce great content; yaw'l are doing a great job with the knowledge and equipment you've already got. Keep it up.
@@Mzandiotis I didn't take it as such! Thanks for the support!
Amazing video exactly what I needed to see I just installed a ucf ultra high clearance tummy tuck on my 03 tj with the 42rle. And looks like he runnin the same setup as me and was wondering if savvy mid arm kit would fit without modifying my skid and it looks like it fits great! Keep up the great work on the channel I've been watching all your gear install and arb install vids and there a huge help since I've never done gears or arbs, but teaching myself to build jeeps from RUclips so thank you for your videos.
Awesome video!
I just cut the exhaust pipe off took it to a Midas muffler shop guy charged $200 to put new tail pipe on took him 45 min with his pipe bending machine. I even drop in a few times he use his machine to bend in a radius no charge. Just lot easier then spending hours cutting and welding.
That would be easier but it just wasn't an option for us at the time. Plus, you would have to sit there and instruct the exhaust guy so you could get the pipe exactly where you want it to have the greatest clearance.
About to get started on this myself... appreciate the video. Looks like he's running the same skid plate system I will be, wondering if you had to modify the engine skid mounting points to clear the front upper link? I guess I'll find out.
I've also got the late model SWB TJ Rubicon so I've got the whole issue with the rear control arm brackets needing to be located where the rear-most tcase skid bolt is to figure out.
There is some slight modification needed.
I would like to see the tuning of the shock and sway bars setup to improve road handling after this kind of upgrade.
I would too. Shock tuning is something I want to learn but it is more of an art.
Awesome looking kit!.....What was going on with the front rotors?... They look diffrent
Those aren't rotors, they're wheel balancers.
@@TheBFHGarage Wow....never seen them before
@@HELUVJEEPS I think they’re centramatics, the concept definitely seems interesting. www.centramatic.com/
Can you provide more details on what you had to do move the ARB bulkheads? I'm about to start on my midarm and will have to move mine as well. I'm curious what I'll have to do for those Fittings
The simplest way to do it is to remove the airline from the fitting. Then test fit the truss. Once the truss is positioned correctly, look at where your bulkhead fitting sits. Determine if you can make it work in its current spot. Don't forget to check that you would have complete access to it once the truss is fully welded in place. We opted to use the latest bulkhead fitting that incorporates a banjo bolt allowing the connection to be 90 degrees instead of straight up out of the housing. Anyway, once you determine where you want to relocate it, make sure you will have enough copper line to get there, make sure you will be able to get the locker installed and the copper line in place without damage, and make sure you plug the old hole with something. We used a steel screw plug.
@@TheBFHGarage thanks guys!
Hi Mike, This was another informative video. I was wondering if you ever got around to out boarding your shocks?
No I haven't. I'm actually considering selling them to a friend who is father along on his project than I am. Either way I will document it👍
Sounds good. Looking forward to it.
Are you able to retain the factory rear swaybar with this kit or must you go with something else?
This will work with the factory sway bar!
@@TheBFHGarage Good to know thank you. I couldnt find an answer on the forums and I had heard of many using this setup without a rear sway bar or using a rear antirock, I was hoping to be able to keep it. Cheers
Does this kit have options for non stock axles/wheelbase?
This mid arm was designed around stock axles. Only the frame side brackets are relocated, so I don't see why it wouldn't work with other axles as long as the brackets are welded in the same stock location. There's a whole lot of reasoning of why stuff goes where it goes. Other " mid arms" don't much compare. For example, the Savvy mid arm moves both the lower and upper frame side bracket in the rear to get the parallel arms. Others only move the lowers which causes the arms to not be parallel. The front side Savvy accomplishes the same thing. It relocates the lower brackets as well as the driver side upper which makes the arms parallel.
Tim Horne, you can order the kit fir different axles. During check out you select what axle you have so you get the appropriate axle truss/control arm mounts. Hope this helps. Love my savvy mid arm. Great video BFH Garage. 👍🏼
Have you had a chance to try it on the trail yet?
Yeti guys in our group are running it and yes lots of trail time! Very well mannered and virtually eliminates wheel hop.
What work if any was done to the axle lower control mounts?
Nothing. Lower axle mounts remain the same.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks. I saw the LJ front axle been trussed and gusset, maybe like to make a video about that. Many fellas ask about it. Keep it up!!
i just bought a jeep with this kit and the tummy tuck. problem is the rear upper control arm mounts are just about touching the body. there is already a body lift. not sure what to do. did you guys have enough Clearance??
Which tuck did you go with? Metalcloak or something else?
@@TheBFHGarage hey thanks for the reply. The tuck is also savvy. I'm wondering if maybe the stock rubber body bushings have compressed a little bit and took away clearance. The rear upper frame side Jonny joints are actually rubbing the bottom of the body now.
I think it's been about 5 years since it was all installed
@@zxtuner4lyfe sorry, I thought I was replying to a different MC video! The Savvy midarm mounts DO come close to the body.... It's part of the design to get correct geometry.
What body mounts do you have?
Hi, I have been looking very seriously at this kit. One question I have is can you use the curry joint that replaces the upper front bushing instead of cutting the mount off and putting on the truss with the control arm mount?. This would require the upper front arm to have a bracket on one end instead of a joint, but it doesn’t look like the actual connection point would change that much. It looks more or less in the same plane but about an inch longer. Why do you need the truss? Is it because the angle of the mount on the housing is wrong, creating a potential bind at extreme articulation?
I don't think I understand your question... what do you mean it would require a bracket instead of a joint? The front is designed as a 3 link. The passenger upper axle mount gets removed to make room for the truss. The drivers side upper mount gets cut as shown in the video to also make room for the truss. It puts the mount higher than stock which allows for parallel control arms which is key. The truss is needed for that as well as strength since it is now 3 link. Hope this helps.
@@TheBFHGarage I mean use this mount instead of cutting it off - the upper mount shown cut off at 4:19. You can buy a Johnny joint to insert into the stock mount and then put a bracket in the control arm instead of a joint.
@@chadlloyd6247 this axle had a JJ in it. Has to be relocated to make arms parallel. Truss is needed for strength since it is 3 link. I did forget to mention that the midarm uses a larger JJ on the axle side. The mount on the truss also sits about 3" towards the passenger side compared to the stock location. All designed to handle the strength needs of being a 3 link.
@@TheBFHGarage ok I think I see what you are saying. Thanks
@@chadlloyd6247 I updated my answer above which should paint a clearer picture. 👍 Good questions!
Hi Mike, do you sell your services for something like this or if not do you know of anyone in Colorado who would? I'm looking to upgrade from my savvy short arm kit to the midarm kit, outboard my rear shocks, and relocate my rear spring perches, but don't know of any shops around that would take on such a job. I'm up in Northern Colorado (Loveland) for reference.
Email me at mike @ the BFH Garage
why mid arms???? why not long arms ???? more travel with long arms and its the smae amount of work
True custom long arms are completely different than what you get from a "kit" such as Metalcloak, Rough Country, etc. All travel is not created equal either. Base your build on what you want your travel parameters to be. 2" of up travel and 7" of down travel does me absolutely no good. I don't like how kit long arms always get hung up in the rocks. Just not for me.