Thank you! I sooooo appreciate that you explain not just HOW, but also why and what to do about the effects the changes will have. One will never really improve a skill to any extent unless they understand WHY. I truly value your insights.
Based on your other comment, I think you need to move your inseam backward so it's not so forward :) See my response below... Thanks for fitting along with me
If the wrinkles are going in the opposite (upward) direction, the side seam is pulling on the inseam... so it's likely that the side seam needs to be lengthened above the crotch curve level.
Thank you for your very clear explanation about the crotch seam, removing excess fabric from the legs while taking out the excess in the crotch. How do I do this in ready made trousers? My grandson has Down syndrome, I have this problem all the time with his trousers. Thank you 😊
You can scoop ready-to-wear pants to create more sitting room... but you can't lengthen the inseam because you'd have to cut the pant leg to spread the inseam. Maybe try making him some pants so you can fine tune the fit of the pattern?
Thank you so much. It is so helpful. I'm wondering how to remove whisker from front crotch at the same time scooping the back crotch and rebalancing the inseam on pattern.
Any answers for how to eliminate fabric gathering in the center back seam. My pattern fits nicely everywhere else, but starting about 2.5” down from the waistline the fabric starts pulling into the butt area. I’ve tried scooping the crotch , but it only helped partly. I also tried pulling the excess out of the side seams, but that results in tightness through the hips. Any pointers on eliminating a fabric wedgie that goes almost all the way up to the waistband?
Try sitting down... If you pants slide down in the back, you need more room inside your pants to sit down ... It sounds like back rise is not long enough ...Scooping can help if you lower the entire base of the back crotch... meaning you stitch straight past the original crotch curve stitching... then curve in and stitch below the curve to "dig a deeper hole". If you don't have enough ease along the upper thigh or if you can have a little more, you can also extend the crotch points to make more length to sit down in. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me.
Thank you for this explanation, it is very clear to understand now. I would greatly appreciate if you would explain the proper changes to make to the sleeve when you make a forward should adjustment, I am not sure how to properly make the changes so the sleeve hangs properly. Thank you!
That's a great question... Are you referring to a forward shoulder adjustment where you need to adjust the position of the shoulder seam - or - are you referring to an adjustment for a forward shoulder (meaning the ball of your shoulder sits forward)?
@@JSternDesigns Hi Jen, I was referring to the adjustment where the ball of the shoulder sits forward, getting the sleeve corrected due to this adjustment is what causes my issue with the way my sleeves sit. By the way, I normally, since shoulder surgeries, also need to shorten my shoulder seams and found your other video on how to adjust the sleeve cap very helpful ~ Thank you!
I should add that I also do adjust the angle of the shoulder seam so that it points toward the ball of my shoulder ~ however, it is adjusting the sleeve correctly that causes me issues.
@@nancyb6585 Here a link to a video tutorial showing how to adjust the sleeve cap for a forward rotated shoulder ruclips.net/video/Iut2hvbUDCk/видео.html Let me know if this helps!
Hi thanks a lot for all your explanations they are very helpful. I have always had issues with fitting my pants because I have always had a full figure. Younger used to have wide hips and thighs and a small waist very pronounced curve in my back from waist to buttocks. Now older I listed my waist and have a big tummy. So all the recommendation you can give with this type of body I will really appreciate it.
Hi Jennifer. I really like your videos. You have great tips. My question is about knit tops that pull towards the back when worn. Do I make the adjustment at the should or do I raise the neckline in the back? Thank you for your help. Be blessed.
Hi Jenifer, only just found you and found front crotch shorten tip brilliant, Years ago I sewed a lot but just taking it up again. I have a pattern that fits on hip n crotch but legs far too wide I narrowed both side n inseam but cant explain why it doesn't look good. Have also altered pattern to move up hip line, do you have a video to show how you would do this. Regards Jay
So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Here is a link to my Pants fitting Playlist. I will be going back and adding all the pants tutorials to it (after I catch up on all the comments that slipped by me... so embarrassed) My guess about the overall look of your pants is that if the crotch is not fit properly, you can't take the leg in and have it look great... A loose fitting leg hides many fitting issues. Stay tuned, I'll add more videos to this playlist. ruclips.net/p/PLseQVksFDkNtpx8xh7oYgStwugAp3kgJ9
Is there a way to make this pattern with low full butt the first time correct my so you don’t have to pleat at the end ? Or does this type of body pattern need the adjustment to be correct
If you know you have a low full butt you can adjust your pattern pieces for this... but unfortunately, you may still need to fine-tune the shape of the crotch after you've made a fit muslin. Using a single leg muslin and separate waistband can really help the process... I start with body specific adjustments first to customize the pattern to your shape... then use the basic steps of TDCO to balance the front/back leg... then deal with the final shape and position of the crotch after the leg is balanced. .... Here's a link to part 1 of the Trouble Shoot Pants Fitting so see how to pick size and trace pattern pieces...The rest of the series shows how to add fit allowances and cut and sew the muslin... Hope this helps. ruclips.net/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jennifer, HELP! I have been working on trying to get a good fitting pant for sometime now and the only thing left that I can't seem to get right is my crotch area, where the back and front are supposed to meet, (under there 😉). For some reason I can't seem to get it centered where it should be. I have measured many times with different methods and still the outcome is the same.. the front crotch is too long (under there 😉), and the back crotch is too short (under there 😉 ). I can't seem to get that part centered to where it's comfortable. Also the inseams from my crotch all the way down to my ankle are too baggy now, as well. What can I do to get this part correct? So far all my balance lines are still balanced. My sides seams are perfectly straight and hang nicely, my waist and hip area are also fitting very well, It's just the crotch and inseams that I can't seem to get corrected. I have a question that I can't seem to find the answer to... where exactly is the front and back crotch supposed to meet (under there 😉). Thanks
This is a good question... perfect for Subscriber Q&A... I was trying to decide what to cover this week! Join me live at 1:00 pm edt today for the answer. If you can't make it live, the recording is here for you when it's convenient! Thanks for fitting along with me
That's a great question! If you scoop the crotch through the inseam as part of the prominent butt adjustment you may need to add length back to the inseam... But you can also adjust the pattern piece (slashing and spreading the crotch wedge and full hip area) to make room for a full butt without scooping the curve. Hope this helps, thanks for following along with me
Another thing would be. Once I heard a lady saying that for big buttocks and hips, creating the grain line going through the middle of the hip line made more sense than going through the middle of the crotch line... because the in seem was much bigger for this type of bodies pulling the pants inside... and made a test with some striped pants and the stripes didn't go straight down but towards the inside .. what is your opinion on this??
So sorry for the delayed response! I establish the vertical grainline in the center of the leg from the knee to hem. Then I extend it up to the waist. If you have a waistline that is significantly smaller than your full hip, this vertical grainline can end up pretty close to the CB seam. But if you do not have a defined waist (your waist, tummy, full hip are similar in measurement) the vertical grainline should be a couple or three inches away from the CB seam.
Jennifer, I really enjoyed this video. I see those lines sometimes on myself and other women and was not quite sure the best way to fix them. Is the opposite true if the lines come from the out seam? I have a full outer thigh, which I think can lead to those drag lines. I need to take your class! 😁 Thank you for the video! 💞
So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. I think I'd have to see the wrinkles to tell you for sure... It could be that the waist was pulled up too high at the side seam or the side seam is too short above the crotch level. Thank you for following along with me
Great info! What do you think about having an S-curve on the CB crotch by hip lines? Should I keep it straight or is it okay if I curve it? My low hip is much larger than my high hip so if I add it all on the side seam the curve is way too bubbly and doesn’t sit right.
You can curve it a slight amount & try angling the straight part of the CB seam toward the side seam to create the room you need lower and remove the room you don't need up higher. The issue is that you need more room inside your pants to sit. You can also extend the back crotch point to add more room or a fuller lower hip. Hope this helps, and I'm sorry for the delayed response.
Jenny, just curious, why add the length with a slash and spread instead of at the bottom of the leg? Thank you so much for these. I need to enroll in one of your pants classes because I have a non-standard body with a full and low booty, long waist, and swayback. gah, so many alterations! (also long legs!) btw, sorry for calling you Julie in my previous comments!)
No worries, I answer by any J name :)))) Slash and spread just below crotch level spreads the inseam, lifting the crotch point (where you will need the extra length.) Adding at the hem, just makes the leg longer... and it makes the hem uneven. Hope that helps!
Great video!! I have found little information on scooping on the crotch curve and this is very helpful. My inseam did get shortened so I am getting those exact drag lines and did not know about adding it back on the thigh. This will help for the back. I have a concern, is there a rule on how much you can scoop in on the front crotch curve? My balance lines are looking good on the front but I have excess fabric so I pinched it out and stitched that in place and it looks soo much better. But I have yet to transfer the curve I scooped on the pattern, looking at it, its a very scooped curved and wondering if that's OK. I'm thinking I can look very different from person to person but I have not seen this on a pattern 🤔
:) in the process of fitting pants with my students, I've discovered that the crotch curve may need to be a shape that doesn't look "right"... If your pants fit, you can sit down without sliding & they are comfortable, then the shape you have is working for you!
@@JSternDesigns thank you so much! I was beginning to think I needed a different adjustment since I'm scooping more then usual 😂 thanks again for the confirmation!❤
I need that extra fabric to go around my full buttocks because my full shape goes across all the back of me. So when I scoop out the crotch to make room for my buttocks, where that extra fabric was is now gone and it's too tight there.
Yes... when you scoop the base of the crotch curve, you are scooping to a more narrow part of the leg... so there's less width...That's why I recommend adding 1" safety seam allowances to the side seams so you'll have room to let the side seams out after you scoop. Let me know if this helps, thanks Jen
If your inseam is forward 1", you can cut off 1" of the back crotch and inseam and flip it over to secure it to the front crotch and inseam... This will push the seam backward 1" :)
Hello
I know this is an old video.
Ok first . Let me just say you are amazing! And I love your teachings. 😊
Thank you for the kind words! 😃 Some of my older videos are some of my best!!
Thank you! I sooooo appreciate that you explain not just HOW, but also why and what to do about the effects the changes will have. One will never really improve a skill to any extent unless they understand WHY. I truly value your insights.
Thanks so much!... and thanks for watching
You are definitely helping me fit...thank you!
So happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
I’m thinking to shift the inseam forward about 3/8” (same amount that is hiking. And balance the grainline.
Based on your other comment, I think you need to move your inseam backward so it's not so forward :) See my response below... Thanks for fitting along with me
Three times I went from "how-will-that-work" to "oooh-cool-tip". Thank you for explaining so well.
Thanks Samina!
great advice thank you x
Glad it was helpful! and thank you for fitting along with me!
Great videos. I need help adjusting a blouse or shirt pattern to accommodate a large belly. Thanks 🌷
You’re welcome 😊 Here is a link to a prominent tummy tutorial ruclips.net/video/WQj7-OKzpw8/видео.html
@@JSternDesigns Thank you so much!
Great class
Thanks Kay
What does it mean when inseam wrinkles go in the opposite direction (from inseam up towards side seam) as in the picture at 10:21 of this video?
If the wrinkles are going in the opposite (upward) direction, the side seam is pulling on the inseam... so it's likely that the side seam needs to be lengthened above the crotch curve level.
Thank you for your very clear explanation about the crotch seam, removing excess fabric from the legs while taking out the excess in the crotch. How do I do this in ready made trousers? My grandson has Down syndrome, I have this problem all the time with his trousers. Thank you 😊
You can scoop ready-to-wear pants to create more sitting room... but you can't lengthen the inseam because you'd have to cut the pant leg to spread the inseam. Maybe try making him some pants so you can fine tune the fit of the pattern?
Thank you so much. It is so helpful. I'm wondering how to remove whisker from front crotch at the same time scooping the back crotch and rebalancing the inseam on pattern.
So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to help! Thank you for following along with me
Great tip!
Glad it was helpful! (so sorry for the delayed responses... I'm catching up today!!)
Any answers for how to eliminate fabric gathering in the center back seam. My pattern fits nicely everywhere else, but starting about 2.5” down from the waistline the fabric starts pulling into the butt area.
I’ve tried scooping the crotch , but it only helped partly. I also tried pulling the excess out of the side seams, but that results in tightness through the hips.
Any pointers on eliminating a fabric wedgie that goes almost all the way up to the waistband?
Try sitting down... If you pants slide down in the back, you need more room inside your pants to sit down ... It sounds like back rise is not long enough ...Scooping can help if you lower the entire base of the back crotch... meaning you stitch straight past the original crotch curve stitching... then curve in and stitch below the curve to "dig a deeper hole". If you don't have enough ease along the upper thigh or if you can have a little more, you can also extend the crotch points to make more length to sit down in. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me.
Thank you for this explanation, it is very clear to understand now. I would greatly appreciate if you would explain the proper changes to make to the sleeve when you make a forward should adjustment, I am not sure how to properly make the changes so the sleeve hangs properly. Thank you!
That's a great question... Are you referring to a forward shoulder adjustment where you need to adjust the position of the shoulder seam - or - are you referring to an adjustment for a forward shoulder (meaning the ball of your shoulder sits forward)?
@@JSternDesigns Hi Jen, I was referring to the adjustment where the ball of the shoulder sits forward, getting the sleeve corrected due to this adjustment is what causes my issue with the way my sleeves sit. By the way, I normally, since shoulder surgeries, also need to shorten my shoulder seams and found your other video on how to adjust the sleeve cap very helpful ~ Thank you!
I should add that I also do adjust the angle of the shoulder seam so that it points toward the ball of my shoulder ~ however, it is adjusting the sleeve correctly that causes me issues.
@@nancyb6585 Here a link to a video tutorial showing how to adjust the sleeve cap for a forward rotated shoulder ruclips.net/video/Iut2hvbUDCk/видео.html Let me know if this helps!
Hi thanks a lot for all your explanations they are very helpful. I have always had issues with fitting my pants because I have always had a full figure. Younger used to have wide hips and thighs and a small waist very pronounced curve in my back from waist to buttocks. Now older I listed my waist and have a big tummy. So all the recommendation you can give with this type of body I will really appreciate it.
So sorry about the delayed response! Thank you for following along with me.. .and keep me posted if you need help with anything specific!
Hi Jennifer. I really like your videos. You have great tips.
My question is about knit tops that pull towards the back when worn. Do I make the adjustment at the should or do I raise the neckline in the back?
Thank you for your help. Be blessed.
That's a great questions... Stay Tuned, you'll see it soon! Thanks for watching
Any thoughts on that?
:) Yes! Check my response to your comment about your inseam sitting 1" forward... Thanks for checking in!
Hi Jenifer, only just found you and found front crotch shorten tip brilliant, Years ago I sewed a lot but just taking it up again. I have a pattern that fits on hip n crotch but legs far too wide I narrowed both side n inseam but cant explain why it doesn't look good. Have also altered pattern to move up hip line, do you have a video to show how you would do this. Regards Jay
So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Here is a link to my Pants fitting Playlist. I will be going back and adding all the pants tutorials to it (after I catch up on all the comments that slipped by me... so embarrassed) My guess about the overall look of your pants is that if the crotch is not fit properly, you can't take the leg in and have it look great... A loose fitting leg hides many fitting issues. Stay tuned, I'll add more videos to this playlist. ruclips.net/p/PLseQVksFDkNtpx8xh7oYgStwugAp3kgJ9
Is there a way to make this pattern with low full butt the first time correct my so you don’t have to pleat at the end ? Or does this type of body pattern need the adjustment to be correct
If you know you have a low full butt you can adjust your pattern pieces for this... but unfortunately, you may still need to fine-tune the shape of the crotch after you've made a fit muslin. Using a single leg muslin and separate waistband can really help the process... I start with body specific adjustments first to customize the pattern to your shape... then use the basic steps of TDCO to balance the front/back leg... then deal with the final shape and position of the crotch after the leg is balanced. .... Here's a link to part 1 of the Trouble Shoot Pants Fitting so see how to pick size and trace pattern pieces...The rest of the series shows how to add fit allowances and cut and sew the muslin... Hope this helps. ruclips.net/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns This is awesome omg & Thank you so much for providing all the help that you do 🙏🏽
Hi Jennifer, HELP! I have been working on trying to get a good fitting pant for sometime now and the only thing left that I can't seem to get right is my crotch area, where the back and front are supposed to meet, (under there 😉). For some reason I can't seem to get it centered where it should be. I have measured many times with different methods and still the outcome is the same.. the front crotch is too long (under there 😉), and the back crotch is too short (under there 😉 ). I can't seem to get that part centered to where it's comfortable. Also the inseams from my crotch all the way down to my ankle are too baggy now, as well. What can I do to get this part correct? So far all my balance lines are still balanced. My sides seams are perfectly straight and hang nicely, my waist and hip area are also fitting very well, It's just the crotch and inseams that I can't seem to get corrected. I have a question that I can't seem to find the answer to... where exactly is the front and back crotch supposed to meet (under there 😉). Thanks
This is a good question... perfect for Subscriber Q&A... I was trying to decide what to cover this week! Join me live at 1:00 pm edt today for the answer. If you can't make it live, the recording is here for you when it's convenient! Thanks for fitting along with me
Does this work with full or prominent butt adjustments? Or do I have to follow other steps?
That's a great question! If you scoop the crotch through the inseam as part of the prominent butt adjustment you may need to add length back to the inseam... But you can also adjust the pattern piece (slashing and spreading the crotch wedge and full hip area) to make room for a full butt without scooping the curve. Hope this helps, thanks for following along with me
@@JSternDesigns thank you!!
Another thing would be. Once I heard a lady saying that for big buttocks and hips, creating the grain line going through the middle of the hip line made more sense than going through the middle of the crotch line... because the in seem was much bigger for this type of bodies pulling the pants inside... and made a test with some striped pants and the stripes didn't go straight down but towards the inside .. what is your opinion on this??
So sorry for the delayed response! I establish the vertical grainline in the center of the leg from the knee to hem. Then I extend it up to the waist. If you have a waistline that is significantly smaller than your full hip, this vertical grainline can end up pretty close to the CB seam. But if you do not have a defined waist (your waist, tummy, full hip are similar in measurement) the vertical grainline should be a couple or three inches away from the CB seam.
Jennifer, I really enjoyed this video. I see those lines sometimes on myself and other women and was not quite sure the best way to fix them. Is the opposite true if the lines come from the out seam? I have a full outer thigh, which I think can lead to those drag lines. I need to take your class! 😁 Thank you for the video! 💞
So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. I think I'd have to see the wrinkles to tell you for sure... It could be that the waist was pulled up too high at the side seam or the side seam is too short above the crotch level. Thank you for following along with me
Great info! What do you think about having an S-curve on the CB crotch by hip lines? Should I keep it straight or is it okay if I curve it? My low hip is much larger than my high hip so if I add it all on the side seam the curve is way too bubbly and doesn’t sit right.
You can curve it a slight amount & try angling the straight part of the CB seam toward the side seam to create the room you need lower and remove the room you don't need up higher. The issue is that you need more room inside your pants to sit. You can also extend the back crotch point to add more room or a fuller lower hip. Hope this helps, and I'm sorry for the delayed response.
Jenny, just curious, why add the length with a slash and spread instead of at the bottom of the leg?
Thank you so much for these. I need to enroll in one of your pants classes because I have a non-standard body with a full and low booty, long waist, and swayback. gah, so many alterations! (also long legs!)
btw, sorry for calling you Julie in my previous comments!)
No worries, I answer by any J name :)))) Slash and spread just below crotch level spreads the inseam, lifting the crotch point (where you will need the extra length.) Adding at the hem, just makes the leg longer... and it makes the hem uneven. Hope that helps!
@@JSternDesigns it does! Thank you!
Great video!! I have found little information on scooping on the crotch curve and this is very helpful. My inseam did get shortened so I am getting those exact drag lines and did not know about adding it back on the thigh. This will help for the back. I have a concern, is there a rule on how much you can scoop in on the front crotch curve? My balance lines are looking good on the front but I have excess fabric so I pinched it out and stitched that in place and it looks soo much better. But I have yet to transfer the curve I scooped on the pattern, looking at it, its a very scooped curved and wondering if that's OK. I'm thinking I can look very different from person to person but I have not seen this on a pattern 🤔
:) in the process of fitting pants with my students, I've discovered that the crotch curve may need to be a shape that doesn't look "right"... If your pants fit, you can sit down without sliding & they are comfortable, then the shape you have is working for you!
@@JSternDesigns thank you so much! I was beginning to think I needed a different adjustment since I'm scooping more then usual 😂 thanks again for the confirmation!❤
I need that extra fabric to go around my full buttocks because my full shape goes across all the back of me. So when I scoop out the crotch to make room for my buttocks, where that extra fabric was is now gone and it's too tight there.
Yes... when you scoop the base of the crotch curve, you are scooping to a more narrow part of the leg... so there's less width...That's why I recommend adding 1" safety seam allowances to the side seams so you'll have room to let the side seams out after you scoop. Let me know if this helps, thanks Jen
Hi Jennifer I want to know how do I get rid of the vertical drag lines at knee on the back
The inseam of my short is hiking. And the inseam position is forward about 1”. Is a men’s short. And the model has a higher butt
If your inseam is forward 1", you can cut off 1" of the back crotch and inseam and flip it over to secure it to the front crotch and inseam... This will push the seam backward 1" :)
Hi, I have a problem with my pants. I have a cameltoe in my front. How can I fix the pattern??? Thank you for explaining so well!
...Stay tuned for this week's Fit Tip Tuesday! I'll share ways to fix a camel toe :)
@@JSternDesigns Hi, thank you, but I can't find it ... can you send my the link please?
@@heidideschryvere8466 Sorry about that... I had something pop up that I needed to take care of... and I ran out of time... I’ll post a link ASAP