Great video Jake! The secret is in simple details that are overlooked for the sake of speed and profit. Every step of a home build has a lasting effect. When simple and basic attention to detail is applied to the process at the right time, a basic home will perform incredibly for the next hundred years. The real issue is, who knows and who cares! Thanks for sharing... 😁👍👍👍👍👍
I grew up in michigan and lived in Florida for a few years and the quality of building down there blew my mind. You're constantly running ac all year long I don't understand why they aren't held to the same standard as a cold michigan winter. Especially considering the humidity and pests you'd think they would want them well sealed!
I know how much Jake loves ICF buildings 😂. I just got done with the shell of my DIY 5 story multigenerational ICF home and one reason why I picked ICF is because the 8” of concrete helps with that air sealing. In addition I will also be adding a polymer based paint on the outside of the foam and followings Matt’s details for liquid flashing around my casement and picture windows. I will also have intello barrier in my ceiling with strapping so I don’t have penetrations going up into the roof assembly. I can’t wait for my blower door score on this 12,000 square foot DIY home 😊
Think I commented on your buld before, 12K sf DIY build... got off your meds did you? Keep your narcissistic tale of yore to yourself, we have no use for it.
@@BigTee-lp7qu It's not a tale. It is very much real. And I built it with my own two hands while working a full time job, Lots of nights, early mornings and weekends.
The Florida Building Code 2014-2023 requires 7.0 ACH50 to get the Certificate of occupancy (CO). I have personally done over 4,000 tests since Jan 2018. There are two major problems in Florida (aside from dishonest testers and contractors) commercial multi-family structures are not required to obtain or maintain air leakage standards and rentals are not required to maintain air leakage after CO. There is absolutely no enforcement of efficiency standards for any rental property in Florida (HUD rental standards are unknown to me). Additionally, duct testing is somewhat required, but not enforced by most municipalities.
Jake ... great video , well done .. thank you. What about fireplaces, gas zero clearance or even masonry? I do not see any in your homes or Steve's (which is this one) or even Matt's. I cannot even image trying to air seal them. any comments.. ?
13:30 only $22 billion in energy savings? How much did it cost in insulation, mechanical etc. to achieve that? Interest expense, real estate tax, builder/trade profit/overhead on added value?
If as builders we focused more on eliminating the cause for interior and exterior air exchanges by equalizing the pressures between interior and exterior spaces. No difference and no air will flow. If we increasingly focus on the HVAC systems equalizing air pressures our builds will become extremly healthy as the fresh air will create a positive air flow to the exterior and what is needed is to filter and condition the fresh air supply for humidity and temperture and particles. This would allow for the air handlers main air recirculating filters to need changes much less frequently and only the fresh air supply filters would need regular changing and these fresh air filters would be much smaller. Smaller fresh air filters could filter air to much lower numbers w/o costing as much as system wide filters. Further it's now possible use 1 to 10 micron filters on fresh air supply. It's almost like having and eating our cake without much higher operating and installation costs. As homes age adjusting the fresh air replacement rates maintains a homes as new high preforming standard. Ray
not really all that effective since you still have air flow from vents (bathrooms, dryer, stove hood, etc), Plus wind can create pressure differences & the air pressure difference can be different on one side of the home, compared to the opposite side on a windy day.
@@guytech7310 This would be a daunting issue 10 tears ago however with modern computing power in even our toasters and coffee makers today installing pressure sensors and gated registers in each room that has an exhaust is no longer hard to accomplish in modern HVAC systems and is largely offset by lower build costs and a home that does not degrade over time as window door and other air seals age.
@@rs2024-s4u Gate dampers only reduce airflow they don't stop it. Plus when they break, you have a problem. You end up spending more money on the system then you save in any energy cost savings. The more tech you add, the more likely something going to break & you spending $$$ on repairs, parts. Another issue is engineered obsolescence which products fail, or no longer supported, & you have to rip it all out & replace it with the newer version. At best most home automation products last about a year before the vendor drops support. They got consumers running in circles & dropping $$ every few months.
@@guytech7310 Not my point which is to have a sustainable the air seals leak over time and are extremely hard to locate and access to make repairs this method handles air quality thru the HVAC which can be serviced and maintained over and deliver better filtered air than would be practical for filtering all the air in the home as all that needs to be filtered is the replacement air and home leaks outward
@@rs2024-s4u We are talking about Bathroom vents, Dryer vents & stove vents, not a HVAC system. Did you mis-read my original comment? A well sealed home or balanced HVAC does not solve the air leaks from the house vents!
There's no direct relation, only some considerations: 1. Air sealing gives you better control over your interior air quality. It should eliminate unwanted drafts in favor of controllable ventilation. This controlled ventilation can be as simple as opening some ventilation vents or as complex as using special equipment like an ERV and/or HVAC. 2. With perfect air sealing, ventilation becomes a must not only for your fresh air to breathe but also to get rid of the moisture (vapor) you produce while living (breathing, showering, cooking, washing, sweating,...). If you don't ventilate, moisture (vapor) levels in the air will build up (relative humidity rises) and if your walls are not vapor open enough, this vapor can nog longer escape in a natural way. For a wooden framed wall and roof, it's always better to have it designed so the wall and the roof remain "more or less" vapor open to the outside and to the inside (*). (*): If you have cold winters, the vapor openness at the inside may be lesser (more vapor retarding) then to the outside. In warm and humid climates, it's the other way around. But it should never be vapor closed (in a normal house), so avoid the use of a poly foil as (air and) vapor barrier.
Do you guys ever use AeroBarrier? Or if you have a builder who doesn’t build to these standards, would you recommend the use of AeroBarrier to get to 1 or less ACH 50?
Jake used AeroBarrier on his personal home. He then retested it a year later to see how it would hold up after initial settling. If I recall, it did well.
The issue wth air sealing is its mostly lost from Dryer & exhaust fans (Bathrooms, stoves, etc). You can spend hours & hours, but when it comes down it you have these large vent holes allowing air flow. Yes you can use backflow stops, but none of them really work well. Try a Blower door test without blocking off any of the vents to see how bad it is. That said, the #1 thermal losses are from the windows, There are no R-30\U-0.03 windows, and the more efficient windows are expensive & only marginally help. Smalller & fewer windows will help, as well as using storm windows (reduce wind-airflow across exterior pane increasing thermal losses).
You’re spot on…. I made my windows smaller size & fewer while increasing my walls & roof to R40 …. I have eliminated bathroom fans and using a ERV exhaust to vent bathrooms while providing fresh air to the house … if you want triple gaze wi does expect to pay $$$$
@@garymitchell7551 houses look so weird from the outside when they're missing lots of windows / undersized. And the inside too w/less and less natural light. Maybe you found a creative way to do it but most of the time it's not a good look.
What's the detail you are using to connect the air barrier in the ceiling to the walls? The air barrier being the outside of the walls but the inside of the ceiling leaves a gap within the wall to the ceiling. Is that completed by the system you use? Do you need a special system for that gap or is the gap handled by the presence of the material in the wall and not requiring special attention?
What we do is tape that air barrier over the top of the wall and onto the zip sheathing. So the air layer transitions from the green side of zip to the back side of the paper barrier on ceiling. Then run that paper under ceiling joists/rafters and run 2x4s on the flat for drywall/ceiling finishes
About 10-15 years ago their was a company that made panels very similar to SIPs, but instead of OSB, they used fiberglass panels. They were excellent R value, very uniform, and also great vs hurricane debris impact tests. I'm not sure what happened to that company, but I think they were a bit too pricey and early. I've always thought using those fiberglass panels would be like building a giant ice chest house. Do you know if anyone is making a product like that now?
Any time of the year that the temperature and humidity are comfortable, I want my windows open, with screens to keep out bugs. I hike, bike and otherwise enjoy the outdoors. I don't wear a respirator outdoors, I don't know why I'd want to live in a sealed bubble unless the outdoor temperature was uncomfortably hot or cold or too humid. Of course, when outdoor conditions are not comfortable, I want my house to perform optimally. Will a tight house be damaged if used as outlined above, (moisture in wall cavities, etc)?
No one wants to live in a sealed bubble, except when they want a bubble to protect them from humidity, temperator, and pollution floating around outside. A tight house only causes mold if you do not engineer a way to get rid of excess humidity. If you watch Matt's other videos you'll see him showing off systems designed to expel your exhaust air, while filtering & conditioning the replacement air coming from outside. If you have a drafty house, sure, the extra humidity will be carried away naturally without any special system, but you're also losing all that $$ you spent heating or cooling the air being spit outside.
@@TrueGrantsta I've watched tons of them, but it seems to me they're designed to only have the windows opened in an emergency. I'm just wondering if the lack of internal air pressure when windows are opened would be a problem with the systems they're using.
Everyone could have the most perfectly “energy efficient” building ever made. The energy company is going to get their money, they will just raise the rates. I feel like everyone forgets that fact in the grand scheme.
I would be extremely curious to know what percentage of air leakage comes from the wall assembly, and what percentage comes from appliance vents. Half?
During testing, you have to temporary seal all wall openings for appliances, ventilation,... It might be a nice exercise to repeat the test will all these openings open and compare the results. This might be a good indication of the quality of the appliances.
I’m aware of that. I’m not a testing hater, but I’m not interested in having a house well, I’m interested in having a house that performs well. I suspect that appliance leakage is a much bigger factor than we realize.
@@jackjmaheriii Normally, a more air sealed house gives you better controllably over the ventilation of your home... but indeed appliances might ruin that.
@@jackjmaheriii On the other hand, how many appliances still need an opening to the outside? Most appliances can operate by recirculation these days (kitchen hood, dryer).
I have a ventless washer/dryer and we like it a lot, but I wouldn’t try that with a stove hood or bath fan. ERV can help with the bath and stove, but I’m still interested in the effect.
In a cold climate you learn how much air sealing is important when you get a winter jacket. The good ones block more and leaves you warmer and windchill can be a b!$@h lol
$22B/130 million homes only is a savings of about $10/mo per home. The statistic doesn’t sound as impressive when you look at it that way. Especially considering the seemingly exponential cost increase to get all the way down to below 1 ACH50 from something like even 3 or 5 ACH50. In my mind you could do a fairly cost effective and standard retrofit of an existing structure to get down to 3-5 ACH 50 ($$), but to get below 1 ACH 50 you’re basically going to need a huge retrofit that pays very close attention to every possible air leakage point ($$$$$). Spray foaming everything would be one obvious way, but we’re seeing more and more info come out about why this might not be the best approach.
I’m curious why you and Steve B don’t credit each other when talking about this house. Steve hasn’t mentioned your name on his videos of this house (the ones I’ve watched anyway) and you didn’t mention his name on this one. I would assume there’s a lot of collaboration between you two since you’re both Build Show contributors, but he talks as if he’s responsible for all the high-performance details and features in the house and you talk like you’re the one responsible for all of it. Seems odd from out here in viewer land.
Just finished doing a Manual J on a Pretty Good House. Infiltration rates are a big deal. Good air sealing allows you to use a lower cost HVAC system. Too bad we have idiots commenting on this video.
Man, this video is mistitled as you didn’t actually start talking about “What should I use” until 16 minutes in. You could have summarized all that background and lead-in information in probably less than a minute (since nearly everyone on Matt’s channel already knows this stuff) or split the first 16 minutes out into a separate video and provide a link at the start of this video. I love your passion for the geeky stuff, but we don’t need all that when we’re looking to watch a how-to video on air sealing and testing. The last 13 minutes was exactly as advertised and contained concise, useful information, so thank you for that. I do want to keep encouraging you to shoot more B roll to show what you’re talking about rather than you just standing in front of the camera and talking for minutes at a time. For example, it would have been much more useful to show someone applying the Siga Fentrum around the windows rather than just a two second shot of the finished product. Not a window installation video, just some video from the installation process to visually reinforce what you’re talking about.
I really appreciate your efforts! I have a quick question: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (mistake turkey blossom warfare blade until bachelor fall squeeze today flee guitar). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
Good idea - make codes more involved and have more "teeth". It's for your own good. Then, let's complain about the lack of affordable housing. As if we didn't contribute to it...
The problem with science is that it attracts introverts. Everything about passive houses has a flavor of nature avoidance. I want structures to survive if the neighborhood loses electricity for weeks. Imagine being dependent on electricity for breathing fresh air rather than allow for measured slippage. Let the vapor out naturally, have good seals but do not have continuous vapor barrier. Imagine being scared of wood burning particles! These guys will perish in a zombie apocalypse before everyone else. Also learn a thing or two from how Spanish and Mediterranean homes are built. Those people live longer.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Great overview of the history of these changes. Our municipality just staryed last year with mandatory blower door tests.
Great video Jake! The secret is in simple details that are overlooked for the sake of speed and profit. Every step of a home build has a lasting effect. When simple and basic attention to detail is applied to the process at the right time, a basic home will perform incredibly for the next hundred years. The real issue is, who knows and who cares! Thanks for sharing... 😁👍👍👍👍👍
I grew up in michigan and lived in Florida for a few years and the quality of building down there blew my mind. You're constantly running ac all year long I don't understand why they aren't held to the same standard as a cold michigan winter. Especially considering the humidity and pests you'd think they would want them well sealed!
FL is governed by idiots.
I know how much Jake loves ICF buildings 😂. I just got done with the shell of my DIY 5 story multigenerational ICF home and one reason why I picked ICF is because the 8” of concrete helps with that air sealing. In addition I will also be adding a polymer based paint on the outside of the foam and followings Matt’s details for liquid flashing around my casement and picture windows. I will also have intello barrier in my ceiling with strapping so I don’t have penetrations going up into the roof assembly.
I can’t wait for my blower door score on this 12,000 square foot DIY home 😊
Think I commented on your buld before, 12K sf DIY build... got off your meds did you? Keep your narcissistic tale of yore to yourself, we have no use for it.
@@BigTee-lp7qu It's not a tale. It is very much real. And I built it with my own two hands while working a full time job, Lots of nights, early mornings and weekends.
I want to see a video of this
The Florida Building Code 2014-2023 requires 7.0 ACH50 to get the Certificate of occupancy (CO). I have personally done over 4,000 tests since Jan 2018. There are two major problems in Florida (aside from dishonest testers and contractors) commercial multi-family structures are not required to obtain or maintain air leakage standards and rentals are not required to maintain air leakage after CO. There is absolutely no enforcement of efficiency standards for any rental property in Florida (HUD rental standards are unknown to me). Additionally, duct testing is somewhat required, but not enforced by most municipalities.
Great info thanks.
Jake ... great video , well done .. thank you. What about fireplaces, gas zero clearance or even masonry? I do not see any in your homes or Steve's (which is this one) or even Matt's. I cannot even image trying to air seal them. any comments.. ?
I still need to do a compartmented blowdoor test to find leaks in each space.
13:30 only $22 billion in energy savings? How much did it cost in insulation, mechanical etc. to achieve that? Interest expense, real estate tax, builder/trade profit/overhead on added value?
Any resales have Blowerdoor testing done as part of the pre inspection?
Normalize audio volume levels, please.
Did the description go through AI? SIGA Meyerriecks?? (psst it's Majrex). "air leakage rates below 150 ACH 50". 150 air changes per hour???
If as builders we focused more on eliminating the cause for interior and exterior air exchanges by equalizing the pressures between interior and exterior spaces. No difference and no air will flow. If we increasingly focus on the HVAC systems equalizing air pressures our builds will become extremly healthy as the fresh air will create a positive air flow to the exterior and what is needed is to filter and condition the fresh air supply for humidity and temperture and particles. This would allow for the air handlers main air recirculating filters to need changes much less frequently and only the fresh air supply filters would need regular changing and these fresh air filters would be much smaller. Smaller fresh air filters could filter air to much lower numbers w/o costing as much as system wide filters. Further it's now possible use 1 to 10 micron filters on fresh air supply. It's almost like having and eating our cake without much higher operating and installation costs. As homes age adjusting the fresh air replacement rates maintains a homes as new high preforming standard. Ray
not really all that effective since you still have air flow from vents (bathrooms, dryer, stove hood, etc), Plus wind can create pressure differences & the air pressure difference can be different on one side of the home, compared to the opposite side on a windy day.
@@guytech7310 This would be a daunting issue 10 tears ago however with modern computing power in even our toasters and coffee makers today installing pressure sensors and gated registers in each room that has an exhaust is no longer hard to accomplish in modern HVAC systems and is largely offset by lower build costs and a home that does not degrade over time as window door and other air seals age.
@@rs2024-s4u Gate dampers only reduce airflow they don't stop it. Plus when they break, you have a problem. You end up spending more money on the system then you save in any energy cost savings.
The more tech you add, the more likely something going to break & you spending $$$ on repairs, parts. Another issue is engineered obsolescence which products fail, or no longer supported, & you have to rip it all out & replace it with the newer version. At best most home automation products last about a year before the vendor drops support. They got consumers running in circles & dropping $$ every few months.
@@guytech7310 Not my point which is to have a sustainable the air seals leak over time and are extremely hard to locate and access to make repairs this method handles air quality thru the HVAC which can be serviced and maintained over and deliver better filtered air than would be practical for filtering all the air in the home as all that needs to be filtered is the replacement air and home leaks outward
@@rs2024-s4u We are talking about Bathroom vents, Dryer vents & stove vents, not a HVAC system. Did you mis-read my original comment?
A well sealed home or balanced HVAC does not solve the air leaks from the house vents!
Would be good to hear a bit about how stopping as much air leakage as possible relates to vapor permeability considerations.
There's no direct relation, only some considerations:
1. Air sealing gives you better control over your interior air quality. It should eliminate unwanted drafts in favor of controllable ventilation. This controlled ventilation can be as simple as opening some ventilation vents or as complex as using special equipment like an ERV and/or HVAC.
2. With perfect air sealing, ventilation becomes a must not only for your fresh air to breathe but also to get rid of the moisture (vapor) you produce while living (breathing, showering, cooking, washing, sweating,...).
If you don't ventilate, moisture (vapor) levels in the air will build up (relative humidity rises) and if your walls are not vapor open enough, this vapor can nog longer escape in a natural way.
For a wooden framed wall and roof, it's always better to have it designed so the wall and the roof remain "more or less" vapor open to the outside and to the inside (*).
(*): If you have cold winters, the vapor openness at the inside may be lesser (more vapor retarding) then to the outside. In warm and humid climates, it's the other way around. But it should never be vapor closed (in a normal house), so avoid the use of a poly foil as (air and) vapor barrier.
Do you guys ever use AeroBarrier? Or if you have a builder who doesn’t build to these standards, would you recommend the use of AeroBarrier to get to 1 or less ACH 50?
Jake used AeroBarrier on his personal home. He then retested it a year later to see how it would hold up after initial settling. If I recall, it did well.
The issue wth air sealing is its mostly lost from Dryer & exhaust fans (Bathrooms, stoves, etc). You can spend hours & hours, but when it comes down it you have these large vent holes allowing air flow. Yes you can use backflow stops, but none of them really work well. Try a Blower door test without blocking off any of the vents to see how bad it is.
That said, the #1 thermal losses are from the windows, There are no R-30\U-0.03 windows, and the more efficient windows are expensive & only marginally help. Smalller & fewer windows will help, as well as using storm windows (reduce wind-airflow across exterior pane increasing thermal losses).
You’re spot on…. I made my windows smaller size & fewer while increasing my walls & roof to R40 …. I have eliminated bathroom fans and using a ERV exhaust to vent bathrooms while providing fresh air to the house … if you want triple gaze wi does expect to pay $$$$
@@garymitchell7551 houses look so weird from the outside when they're missing lots of windows / undersized. And the inside too w/less and less natural light. Maybe you found a creative way to do it but most of the time it's not a good look.
What's the detail you are using to connect the air barrier in the ceiling to the walls?
The air barrier being the outside of the walls but the inside of the ceiling leaves a gap within the wall to the ceiling. Is that completed by the system you use? Do you need a special system for that gap or is the gap handled by the presence of the material in the wall and not requiring special attention?
What we do is tape that air barrier over the top of the wall and onto the zip sheathing. So the air layer transitions from the green side of zip to the back side of the paper barrier on ceiling. Then run that paper under ceiling joists/rafters and run 2x4s on the flat for drywall/ceiling finishes
The outro sound at twice the decibels of the speech in the video is a GREAT RECIPE FOR HEARING LOSS AND DAMAGE. FIX IT!
Blower door testing and air sealing are under appreciated tools for comfort and energy efficiency.
About 10-15 years ago their was a company that made panels very similar to SIPs, but instead of OSB, they used fiberglass panels. They were excellent R value, very uniform, and also great vs hurricane debris impact tests. I'm not sure what happened to that company, but I think they were a bit too pricey and early. I've always thought using those fiberglass panels would be like building a giant ice chest house. Do you know if anyone is making a product like that now?
Any time of the year that the temperature and humidity are comfortable, I want my windows open, with screens to keep out bugs. I hike, bike and otherwise enjoy the outdoors. I don't wear a respirator outdoors, I don't know why I'd want to live in a sealed bubble unless the outdoor temperature was uncomfortably hot or cold or too humid. Of course, when outdoor conditions are not comfortable, I want my house to perform optimally. Will a tight house be damaged if used as outlined above, (moisture in wall cavities, etc)?
No one wants to live in a sealed bubble, except when they want a bubble to protect them from humidity, temperator, and pollution floating around outside. A tight house only causes mold if you do not engineer a way to get rid of excess humidity. If you watch Matt's other videos you'll see him showing off systems designed to expel your exhaust air, while filtering & conditioning the replacement air coming from outside.
If you have a drafty house, sure, the extra humidity will be carried away naturally without any special system, but you're also losing all that $$ you spent heating or cooling the air being spit outside.
@@TrueGrantsta I've watched tons of them, but it seems to me they're designed to only have the windows opened in an emergency. I'm just wondering if the lack of internal air pressure when windows are opened would be a problem with the systems they're using.
Everyone could have the most perfectly “energy efficient” building ever made. The energy company is going to get their money, they will just raise the rates. I feel like everyone forgets that fact in the grand scheme.
I would be extremely curious to know what percentage of air leakage comes from the wall assembly, and what percentage comes from appliance vents. Half?
During testing, you have to temporary seal all wall openings for appliances, ventilation,...
It might be a nice exercise to repeat the test will all these openings open and compare the results. This might be a good indication of the quality of the appliances.
I’m aware of that. I’m not a testing hater, but I’m not interested in having a house well, I’m interested in having a house that performs well. I suspect that appliance leakage is a much bigger factor than we realize.
@@jackjmaheriii Normally, a more air sealed house gives you better controllably over the ventilation of your home... but indeed appliances might ruin that.
@@jackjmaheriii On the other hand, how many appliances still need an opening to the outside? Most appliances can operate by recirculation these days (kitchen hood, dryer).
I have a ventless washer/dryer and we like it a lot, but I wouldn’t try that with a stove hood or bath fan. ERV can help with the bath and stove, but I’m still interested in the effect.
In a cold climate you learn how much air sealing is important when you get a winter jacket. The good ones block more and leaves you warmer and windchill can be a b!$@h lol
$22B/130 million homes only is a savings of about $10/mo per home. The statistic doesn’t sound as impressive when you look at it that way. Especially considering the seemingly exponential cost increase to get all the way down to below 1 ACH50 from something like even 3 or 5 ACH50.
In my mind you could do a fairly cost effective and standard retrofit of an existing structure to get down to 3-5 ACH 50 ($$), but to get below 1 ACH 50 you’re basically going to need a huge retrofit that pays very close attention to every possible air leakage point ($$$$$). Spray foaming everything would be one obvious way, but we’re seeing more and more info come out about why this might not be the best approach.
👍 we definitely need stricter energy codes on new residential and commercial bilds
Let’s not keep making more regulations. Cost consumer and is just trying have more govt control
What happened to Matt?
I’m curious why you and Steve B don’t credit each other when talking about this house. Steve hasn’t mentioned your name on his videos of this house (the ones I’ve watched anyway) and you didn’t mention his name on this one. I would assume there’s a lot of collaboration between you two since you’re both Build Show contributors, but he talks as if he’s responsible for all the high-performance details and features in the house and you talk like you’re the one responsible for all of it. Seems odd from out here in viewer land.
Just finished doing a Manual J on a Pretty Good House. Infiltration rates are a big deal. Good air sealing allows you to use a lower cost HVAC system. Too bad we have idiots commenting on this video.
The air-exchange rate should be the same no matter what climate you live in.........
Man, this video is mistitled as you didn’t actually start talking about “What should I use” until 16 minutes in. You could have summarized all that background and lead-in information in probably less than a minute (since nearly everyone on Matt’s channel already knows this stuff) or split the first 16 minutes out into a separate video and provide a link at the start of this video. I love your passion for the geeky stuff, but we don’t need all that when we’re looking to watch a how-to video on air sealing and testing.
The last 13 minutes was exactly as advertised and contained concise, useful information, so thank you for that. I do want to keep encouraging you to shoot more B roll to show what you’re talking about rather than you just standing in front of the camera and talking for minutes at a time. For example, it would have been much more useful to show someone applying the Siga Fentrum around the windows rather than just a two second shot of the finished product. Not a window installation video, just some video from the installation process to visually reinforce what you’re talking about.
I really appreciate your efforts! I have a quick question: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (mistake turkey blossom warfare blade until bachelor fall squeeze today flee guitar). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
What happens when a house sits unoccupied for months at a time? Which happens in the life of EVERY house.
You really threw me off by not saying “Let’s do it now” and saying “Let’s jump in…”
Good idea - make codes more involved and have more "teeth". It's for your own good. Then, let's complain about the lack of affordable housing. As if we didn't contribute to it...
13:30 Ah, genius (not)! Energy focus only, huh? Idiots force us to spend $20 on anything and everything simply to save $1 in electricity.
Video posted: 15 mins ago
Video: 30 mins long
Then a bunch of negative comments about not liking the video. A lil suspicious.
Watch it at 2x speed haha
Stop building paper homes, they burned down like a palm tree
More click bait. Please make sure that the thumbnail description represents the video.
Speak faster. A 30 minute vid that should have been 10 or 15 minutes 🙄 Thank god for x1.25 speed! 💥
Increase playback speed 🙄
Give it a break. 30 min is still not enough time for some people to comprehend
Pookie
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ air sealing has become a scam
Not very concise
I always thought the blowing tests involve woman. This video changed my views
The problem with science is that it attracts introverts. Everything about passive houses has a flavor of nature avoidance. I want structures to survive if the neighborhood loses electricity for weeks. Imagine being dependent on electricity for breathing fresh air rather than allow for measured slippage. Let the vapor out naturally, have good seals but do not have continuous vapor barrier. Imagine being scared of wood burning particles! These guys will perish in a zombie apocalypse before everyone else. Also learn a thing or two from how Spanish and Mediterranean homes are built. Those people live longer.