@@robotcantina8957 keep giving all the details about builds because there are so rare on that topic (1 cyl engine EFI) and it helps so much understanding everything. You'll start a trend believe me
The ECU knows where it is at all times. It knows this because it knows where it isn't. By subtracting where it is from where it isn't, or where it isn't from where it is (whichever is greater), it obtains a difference, or deviation. The timing subsystem uses deviations to generate corrective commands to drive the ECU from a position where it is to a position where it isn't, and arriving at a position where it wasn't, it now is. Consequently, the position where it is, is now the position that it wasn't, and it follows that the position that it was, is now the position that it isn't. In the event that the position that it is in is not the position that it wasn't, the system has acquired a variation, the variation being the difference between where the ECU is, and where it wasn't. If variation is considered to be a significant factor, it too may be corrected by the MAP. However, the ECU must also know where it was. The ECU timing computer scenario works as follows. Because a variation has modified some of the information the ECU has obtained, it is not sure just where it is. However, it is sure where it isn't, within reason, and it knows where it was. It now subtracts where it should be from where it wasn't, or vice-versa, and by differentiating this from the algebraic sum of where it shouldn't be, and where it was, it is able to obtain the deviation and its variation, which is called error.
Adding a knock sensor on the engine would be useful as well. I seem to remember that a modern car ign. system applies a strategy in which it continuously tries to maximise ign. advance. Until the knocksensor detects knock and sends the signal to the ign. module. The ign.module then backs the timing off a few degrees until the knock sensor factor input stops and then slowely tries to advance again. Basically a simple feedback loop: advance>knock>retard>advance (ad infinitum) With a strategy like that it becomes a lot safer to use boost. Differences in fuel quality, ambient airtemp will automatically be factored in. With low octane fuel the ign. will automatically use less advance.
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
Great vids :) Just a heads up, I used what looks to be the same generic air filter you do on a 18hp 200cc chinese atv. It made it run very poorly despite trying to tune it. Found that the foam type pitbike filters flow a lot better, and likely cleans better if oiled. After fitting one the little 200 was back in the game.
@@hojnikb I bet youd see very little difference, if any. Contrary to popular belief, carbs are quite fuel efficient if properly tuned. And in the case of a lawnmower where it runs one RPM at all times with just a bit of varying load, I doubt the manufacturer screwed it up too bad
Skip the Speeduino and get a Harbor Freight diesel and an eBay turbo. Then you'll have something much louder to play with, and could you even put it in a riding mower or a bike ;)
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
You squeezed the usb cable into the door gap by closing the door, and then talk about failing connections to laptop. Might not be the reason why it fails often, but looks funny in the same picture with laptop.😋
That Stuff is BMW and it might be from a 02 series. The BMW "Neue Klasse"(New Class) was a huge succsess, it helped BMW survive the 60´s, my Dad had a 2002 (actually several) and the BMW 2002 escalated into the 2002 Tii Turbo, a mechanical fuel injected and turboed badass. It had a bad reputation because the drivers didn´t treat it as they should have so they blew turbos, head gaskets- You name it. And based on the 1500ccm block BMW´s motor magicians created the F1 race car engine which dominated everything in the early 80´s. Glory days... You do really awsome shit with this car, I love the sound! Sounds very serious!
I love your explanation of the missing tooth on the reluctor wheel. I always liked the ford method of firing on the "down" on the square wave. So instead of a missing tooth, cylinder 1's "tooth" was smaller but ended in the same place on the wheel. So it was sort of like a missing tooth, it as the eec was looking for the big gap between cylinders to know when to fire injector 1. The eec would turn off the "spark in" pin when it wanted to fire the plug. If the eec didn't tell the coil to fire, it would fire anyway when the tooth on the reluctor completely passed the hall effect sensor. Works just like the GM setup, just completely backwards, and the reluctor was just a piece of stamped steel rather than a magnet. Not saying thats what you should have done, your explanation just reminded me of this. Awesome vid. Glad to see you're back
3:17 - For those curious/arguing: The GM HEI (High-Energy Ignition) and GM/Bosch ECMs are designed to work on a minimum of 5VDC, should there ever be a compromise in the vehicle's electrical/charging system.
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
I missed you. You never adopted me so I can't work in your garage. Thanks for the content I love your videos. Ford and GM hand in hand? This man is a madlad.
I really love this 'stuff'. I learned way too much researching my 5.0L Ford EFI swap into my 76 CJ5, but you take this to a simple, but in depth level!
Solve that airflow problem by putting a big ass ram air hood scoop on that thing! Add some v-tech to make it a real honda! Great stuff jimbo! Creators like you are what makes youtube awesome!
As the manager of a fleet of Ford municipal vehicles, I wholeheartedly agree with the assessment that Ford parts are better suited to lawnmowers than they are to cars. I’m sure the recall notice for your cement mixer powered, street legal go-cart is on its way.
Jimbo, you made me work! I had forgotten what VR stood for! Luckily I eventually remembered that it stood for variable reluctance. I found several articles (Wikipedia) on what a VR is/does but nothing immediately on Reluctance. It turns out that it is like electrical resistance for magnetic fields. The big difference is that it uses no power, as a resistor does. Your engine with a VR will have to fight the Reluctance as it spins but the VR generates no heat. Educational moment missed Jimbo! I am embarassed to say I actually got an EE degree but missed or forgot this. It must have been when we studied electric motors!
In case anyone worries that my poor education endangered anyone, I am happy to say that I have never been employed as an EE! LOL I am at retirement age so everyone's future is safe from me too! 8-))
Just add a plate below the engine which scoops up air from below the car. This way you can avoid the ducting entirely. You just need to add some vents holes at the end of the hood, which is basically what you would expect from a cement mixer engine driven car anyway 😬
Excellent production. I learned a few things which I had previously skirted on my way to being the best inventor in history. Truly helpful! It won't be long until this horribly draggy high friction person transporter blows through an impressive speed. Of course a tail wind will be helpful. I suppose the energy required to make this speed will be a measurable improvement over the larger OEM beast. After all we aren't pumping water too. This fuel injection and ignition timing control method had me wondering how wastefully inefficient it is to fire a spark when a spark isn't needed. I bet 100's of milliamps could be wasted. It could light with less than one turn. I like the modules designed logic for the ability to spray two hats full of fuel into the intake plenum prior to charging the combustion chamber. Great because we should be moving swiftly now onto the super charger. Hopefully, the fuel tank mount wont hinder us again. Moving from liquid cooled to air cooling has been a remarkable experience. I suspect that the fuel injection sprinkler could provide enough cooling to set another speed record before we ever consider leaning. Lord help us now, I'm saying we. Cheers!
Glad to see you back. Hmm, a 36 spoke motorized bicycle sprocket would seem to work just fine with the teeth filed flat and a tooth removed. Thanks for the inspiration. On second thought, with that convertor board, maybe no filing needed.
@@robotcantina8957 Jimbo= we love these videos. Congratulations on reaching 107K subscribers.. You are giving viewers the content and entertainment we enjoy!
Great video with an excellent overview of all the parts used along with their descriptions. Not detailed tuning wise, though excellent I'm thinking for getting started and very motivational to see you're using the speeduino and referencing previous episodes regarding more details. Seems I commented prior to suggest using another open source controller, so really awesome to see the details and application of the speeduino. Thanks for sharing! You rule!
Love how you're Frankensteining this together with parts from different car manufacturers. Also, wasn't that Vice Grip Garage playing on the screen in the back at the end of the video? And yikes, the gnome has a friend. Finally, I know where episode 13 is, but I promised the gnomes I wouldn't tell.
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
At 5:33 you've got your tool hanging out an impressive distance. That's pretty much a guarantied recipe for getting the whole bed shaking while you're plunging the tip into that hole ! :D (And yes, I did grow up watching British "Carry on" films. How did you know? LOL !)
Thanks! I cant quit recall, but I believe I set the tool up that way because of an interference issue. Possibly for the crank wheel or the job right before it.
I had a similar issue with losing connection to an Arduino and the fix ended up turning down the max CPU state from %100 to something like %30. I had tried everything but that's what ended up fixing it.
The fact that the ECU isn't necessarily firing directly off the crank sensor is a minor mindbomb for me. I mean I've only had experience using a modified stock ECU using the stock crank sensor but I always assumed it knew exactly where the crank was and adjusted timing accordingly. This is the channel that just keeps on giving!
Hey Adam, one additional curious thing is that as ECUs got faster, over the years, more teeth were added to the crank wheel, to further reduce the “guessing” that needs to be done.
@@gregholloway2656 I believe you are mistaken. Most crank sensors max out at 60 teeth. Even the most basic EFI setup can keep track of 60 teeth. There's not much point in having a crankshaft sensor that isn't capable of accurately tracking the position of the crankshaft.
@@rars0n you are probably right. I was thinking of LS crank wheels, where the early engines had 24 teeth, and the later 58. Perhaps it was the sensors improving more than the ecus.
If the other laptop does not fix the serial dropping out, try shielding your entire ignition system. During the EFI conversion of my Samurai i encountered an identical problem, all cables, all laptops that i tried would just drop out after the engine started(i also had a problem with it dropping out right after cranking, which was caused by the lack of a flyback diode on my test stand's starter solenoid relay). I first used aluminum foil to shield the harness, but later used proper alu tape to cover the coil on plug coil's boot, as it was originally designed to be sunk deep into a cylinder head it probably wasn't designed to be the cleanest regarding EMI.
The new laptop arrived yesterday afternoon and it works perfect. My little Acer has taken a beating and the usb line has been zapped a number of times, I'm afraid the computer has seen better days.
13:55 I've often wondered about this too. My drip machine even has a "strong" button. If I wanted weak-ass coffee, wouldn't I just use fewer grounds? I would, but I don't.
I have the same laptop, and actually have the same issue when tuning my adaptronic ecu. It’s small making it easy to use in the car but the freezing is annoying lol
Great project and video, a fun series for sure, I'm glad to see someone else beating their head against the norm. I did a supercharger (chevy smog pump) on a 300cc Kawasaki industrial engine pitbike, blow through cv carburetor using the stock ignition, it made 10lbs boost, it was a great addition. My latest addition to the little motorcycle is a small turbocharger that is plumbed in after the blower for a "twin charged" application. I also went away from the stock ignition and cv carb by adding a megasquirt efi system I purchased from DIY Fuel Injection. Was a challenge but now it runs and is pretty cool with a good push on your butt as the boost continues to build. Video footage of it running at my RUclips channel. By the way Jimbo, where the hell is episode 13?
@@robotcantina8957 no, just one throttle body after the turbo. All air comes in through the inlet of the blower, then compressed air is put into the compressor side of the turbo, then through the throttle body to the plenum chamber where the injector is pointed directly into the intake port and valve.
Interesting stuff. Breaking all of this engine computer tech down to a 1 cylinder level can actually help Mr. Average get an idea of what's going on under the hood.
The "strong" button is just a statement, like the door close buttons on an elevator, you can push it all you want or not at all, and the doors still close =)
Once the super charger gets on and it’s all tuned you gotta take it to a Honda dealership for an oil change or something just to see them confused 😂
I am continuously amazed by your channel. This is literally the exact content I've been looking for for years.
Thanks! ... its food for the mind
@@robotcantina8957
But normally things labled as "brainfood" feels like chugging down rocks or something, this is premium brainfood :)
@@bosh6604 LOL
Amazing video it'll help me a lot !!!
Glad to hear that!
@@robotcantina8957 keep giving all the details about builds because there are so rare on that topic (1 cyl engine EFI) and it helps so much understanding everything. You'll start a trend believe me
@@UltimateMaking Can you imagine a slightly bigger 1 cyl? I can!
@@UltimateMaking Also, I would love to build a cement mixer powered car!
Yo ultimate making ! Étonné que tu ai trouvé cette chaîne aussi ! Haha
I'm glad you're back Jimbo!
Me too!
The ECU knows where it is at all times. It knows this because it knows where it isn't. By subtracting where it is from where it isn't, or where it isn't from where it is (whichever is greater), it obtains a difference, or deviation. The timing subsystem uses deviations to generate corrective commands to drive the ECU from a position where it is to a position where it isn't, and arriving at a position where it wasn't, it now is. Consequently, the position where it is, is now the position that it wasn't, and it follows that the position that it was, is now the position that it isn't.
In the event that the position that it is in is not the position that it wasn't, the system has acquired a variation, the variation being the difference between where the ECU is, and where it wasn't. If variation is considered to be a significant factor, it too may be corrected by the MAP. However, the ECU must also know where it was.
The ECU timing computer scenario works as follows. Because a variation has modified some of the information the ECU has obtained, it is not sure just where it is. However, it is sure where it isn't, within reason, and it knows where it was. It now subtracts where it should be from where it wasn't, or vice-versa, and by differentiating this from the algebraic sum of where it shouldn't be, and where it was, it is able to obtain the deviation and its variation, which is called error.
That is or isn't the most easy explanation of timing error 😁
A good friend keeps telling me... "wherever I go, there I am"
Seriously though, great explanation of predictive timing!!
Wherever you go don't forget your towel.
Adding a knock sensor on the engine would be useful as well.
I seem to remember that a modern car ign. system applies a strategy in which it continuously tries to maximise ign. advance. Until the knocksensor detects knock and sends the signal to the ign. module. The ign.module then backs the timing off a few degrees until the knock sensor factor input stops and then slowely tries to advance again. Basically a simple feedback loop: advance>knock>retard>advance (ad infinitum)
With a strategy like that it becomes a lot safer to use boost. Differences in fuel quality, ambient airtemp will automatically be factored in.
With low octane fuel the ign. will automatically use less advance.
Where am I?
I'm enjoyying this channel more than I ever knew I could enjoy a YT channel. Great work Jimbo.
Glad you enjoy it!
crazy project!! I just found the channel I was looking, and I have to binge watch all off theseee :( (sad & verry happy at the same time)
Thanks!
Nice to see this update! I got my Speeduino powered VW beetle to start up today. Chasing a few gremlins, but it runs!
Congratulations on the first start!
That crank sensor is from a jeep. Probably a renix era rig.
Far and away the best channel on RUclips. You’re incredibly smart and good at what you do
Thanks for the kind words.
I hope you're having as much fun producing this as I am watching it, because it's a blast! 💥
This is the most fun I have had in years!
Engine sounds better than ever! This may be my fav video yet. Loved the simple explanations of various Speeduino functions and other EFI features.
Thank you Jimbo, with all this info all of us will be able to build our own Post Apocalyptic Mad Max cars when the world ends
God I love your humor.
Hey Jimbo, where the heck is Episode 13? 🤣
Welcome to the club!
Wasn't 13: Reliability test Ford Vs Harbor Freight Parts Fail
didn't it get left on the 13th floor of the hotel?
@@anthonyrstrawbridge I wish! I would pay money to see that.
Hey Jimbo, where the heck is Episode 13? Cause 13 is my lucky number
"DId ya miss me? Well, take better aim!" Jimbo, I'mma use this when I become an uncle. Oh wait, I'm already an uncle XD
CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO
you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
Jimbo= we love these videos. Congratulations on reaching 107K subscribers.. You are giving viewers
the content and entertainment we enjoy!
Yeah! You got the book! Now the real battle with the Gnomes begin!!!!!!!! Awesome video!
Oh... Where the HECK is Episode 13!
Welcome to the episode 13 fan club!
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO
you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
Jimbo, love the content man, this is by far my favorite RUclips channel
I love these, and I feel like they'll still be in the recommended in 5 years.
Thanks!
I don't know why I like this show so much, I'm not a car guy, but I LOVE ROBOT CANTINA!
Thanks!
Great vids :) Just a heads up, I used what looks to be the same generic air filter you do on a 18hp 200cc chinese atv.
It made it run very poorly despite trying to tune it.
Found that the foam type pitbike filters flow a lot better, and likely cleans better if oiled.
After fitting one the little 200 was back in the game.
I feel the urge to get a speeduino, despite not having anything to use it on. Unless I plan to convert my honda lawnmower to fuel injection.
You should totally do that. Would make for a very efficient mowing of the lawn :D
Supercharged fuel-injected lawnmowers are all the rage here.
@@hojnikb I bet youd see very little difference, if any. Contrary to popular belief, carbs are quite fuel efficient if properly tuned. And in the case of a lawnmower where it runs one RPM at all times with just a bit of varying load, I doubt the manufacturer screwed it up too bad
Skip the Speeduino and get a Harbor Freight diesel and an eBay turbo. Then you'll have something much louder to play with, and could you even put it in a riding mower or a bike ;)
I really can't stress enough how much I love the new outro!
once this is finished you need to ls swap a cement mixer
These are the videos I hope my kids will enjoy
Excellent video. Probably the most informative of all videos out there about speeduino hookup
Glad it was helpful!. More on the way!
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO
you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
This videos is awesome and i have learned ALOT thanks to Jimbo :) Hopefully this project never ends!!
Been waiting for this video. Great Stuff. Enjoyed watching your channel grow since I discovered it from the gokart forum.
Awesome! Thank you!
You squeezed the usb cable into the door gap by closing the door, and then talk about failing connections to laptop. Might not be the reason why it fails often, but looks funny in the same picture with laptop.😋
That Stuff is BMW and it might be from a 02 series. The BMW "Neue Klasse"(New Class) was a huge succsess, it helped BMW survive the 60´s, my Dad had a 2002 (actually several) and the BMW 2002 escalated into the 2002 Tii Turbo, a mechanical fuel injected and turboed badass. It had a bad reputation because the drivers didn´t treat it as they should have so they blew turbos, head gaskets- You name it.
And based on the 1500ccm block BMW´s motor magicians created the F1 race car engine which dominated everything in the early 80´s.
Glory days...
You do really awsome shit with this car, I love the sound! Sounds very serious!
I love your explanation of the missing tooth on the reluctor wheel. I always liked the ford method of firing on the "down" on the square wave. So instead of a missing tooth, cylinder 1's "tooth" was smaller but ended in the same place on the wheel. So it was sort of like a missing tooth, it as the eec was looking for the big gap between cylinders to know when to fire injector 1.
The eec would turn off the "spark in" pin when it wanted to fire the plug. If the eec didn't tell the coil to fire, it would fire anyway when the tooth on the reluctor completely passed the hall effect sensor. Works just like the GM setup, just completely backwards, and the reluctor was just a piece of stamped steel rather than a magnet.
Not saying thats what you should have done, your explanation just reminded me of this. Awesome vid. Glad to see you're back
thanks!
YESSSSSSSS I MISSED YOU 😘😘😘😘
Thanks!
I wonder why Jimbo had to take down ep.13? It was sooo good.
3:17 - For those curious/arguing: The GM HEI (High-Energy Ignition) and GM/Bosch ECMs are designed to work on a minimum of 5VDC, should there ever be a compromise in the vehicle's electrical/charging system.
did indeed miss the videos, glad your back! hope you enjoyed your vacation though
I did!
Well worth the wait, brilliant as usual!!
Glad to have you back, was just talking to my boss about the project
Thanks!
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO
you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
I missed you. You never adopted me so I can't work in your garage. Thanks for the content I love your videos. Ford and GM hand in hand? This man is a madlad.
Its a crazy world when GM and ford parts work well together.
@@robotcantina8957 just crazy enough to work
@@Kohoso95 lol
Eating a can of green beans watching one of my fav series.
Ritz crackers and Ham spread, with a slice of cheese.
I really love this 'stuff'. I learned way too much researching my 5.0L Ford EFI swap into my 76 CJ5, but you take this to a simple, but in depth level!
Love the subtly . . . smooth tech talk. Just Wow!
Yes I did miss you, been looking forward to the next instalment for a while!!
Fantastic vid Mr I enjoyed it so much and I see the knomes are planning something looking at ur book at the end
Locking forward to the drive !
Solve that airflow problem by putting a big ass ram air hood scoop on that thing! Add some v-tech to make it a real honda! Great stuff jimbo! Creators like you are what makes youtube awesome!
I wish I had a few buddies interested In This stuff. Love these videos.
Heck yeah! Been too long since my last snail-powered cement mixer update.
Its been a long few weeks....
As the manager of a fleet of Ford municipal vehicles, I wholeheartedly agree with the assessment that Ford parts are better suited to lawnmowers than they are to cars. I’m sure the recall notice for your cement mixer powered, street legal go-cart is on its way.
lol
Great job at narrating and editing! Looks like I will have to watch your series!
Can't watch right now but definitely gave it a thumbs up, this is gooonnnaaa beee gooood
one of the best RUclips series EVER
Jimbo, you made me work! I had forgotten what VR stood for! Luckily I eventually remembered that it stood for variable reluctance. I found several articles (Wikipedia) on what a VR is/does but nothing immediately on Reluctance.
It turns out that it is like electrical resistance for magnetic fields. The big difference is that it uses no power, as a resistor does. Your engine with a VR will have to fight the Reluctance as it spins but the VR generates no heat.
Educational moment missed Jimbo!
I am embarassed to say I actually got an EE degree but missed or forgot this. It must have been when we studied electric motors!
In case anyone worries that my poor education endangered anyone, I am happy to say that I have never been employed as an EE! LOL
I am at retirement age so everyone's future is safe from me too! 8-))
Just add a plate below the engine which scoops up air from below the car. This way you can avoid the ducting entirely.
You just need to add some vents holes at the end of the hood, which is basically what you would expect from a cement mixer engine driven car anyway 😬
Excellent production. I learned a few things which I had previously skirted on my way to being the best inventor in history. Truly helpful!
It won't be long until this horribly draggy high friction person transporter blows through an impressive speed. Of course a tail wind will be helpful. I suppose the energy required to make this speed will be a measurable improvement over the larger OEM beast. After all we aren't pumping water too.
This fuel injection and ignition timing control method had me wondering how wastefully inefficient it is to fire a spark when a spark isn't needed. I bet 100's of milliamps could be wasted. It could light with less than one turn.
I like the modules designed logic for the ability to spray two hats full of fuel into the intake plenum prior to charging the combustion chamber. Great because we should be moving swiftly now onto the super charger. Hopefully, the fuel tank mount wont hinder us again.
Moving from liquid cooled to air cooling has been a remarkable experience. I suspect that the fuel injection sprinkler could provide enough cooling to set another speed record before we ever consider leaning.
Lord help us now, I'm saying we.
Cheers!
I have watched and liked each video as I eagerly await new instalments. I've learnt so much!
"Did you miss me? Well get better aim"
Genius
Glad to see you back. Hmm, a 36 spoke motorized bicycle sprocket would seem to work just fine with the teeth filed flat and a tooth removed. Thanks for the inspiration. On second thought, with that convertor board, maybe no filing needed.
How did I not see this till now. Dang it.
Keep it up.
Thanks! more on the way!
@@robotcantina8957 Jimbo= we love these videos. Congratulations on reaching 107K subscribers.. You are giving viewers
the content and entertainment we enjoy!
Going out to the shed to weld my distributor shut now. Thanks...
Awesome video as always guy's!
Thanks again!
Piaggio/Vespa GTS 300 throttle body looks good. Might have ignition module built in too?
I think that’s a K-Jeteonic off an E21 BMW 320i.
Great video with an excellent overview of all the parts used along with their descriptions. Not detailed tuning wise, though excellent I'm thinking for getting started and very motivational to see you're using the speeduino and referencing previous episodes regarding more details. Seems I commented prior to suggest using another open source controller, so really awesome to see the details and application of the speeduino. Thanks for sharing! You rule!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love how you're Frankensteining this together with parts from different car manufacturers. Also, wasn't that Vice Grip Garage playing on the screen in the back at the end of the video? And yikes, the gnome has a friend. Finally, I know where episode 13 is, but I promised the gnomes I wouldn't tell.
nice work!what is the idle rpm?
The engine will idle at 1200 rpm warm. The idle is a little high because it needs to be above the speed where the compression release kicks in.
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO
you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
I wish this channel was sponsored by need it quick? Jeeeeegggsss high performance parts
liked how you added the mistake in the vid.
Great work! ( i think the fuel tank being mounted on the trans is whats killing the mounts.) We will see how it goes
Looks like the Renix crank pickup from a 300 series Volvo 84 on.
Thanks for video, very nice to watch! You always make my day better :)
Love it great sourcing the parts ... and the awesome system test - thanks for the share.
Glad you liked it!
At 5:33 you've got your tool hanging out an impressive distance. That's pretty much a guarantied recipe for getting the whole bed shaking while you're plunging the tip into that hole ! :D
(And yes, I did grow up watching British "Carry on" films. How did you know? LOL !)
Thanks! I cant quit recall, but I believe I set the tool up that way because of an interference issue. Possibly for the crank wheel or the job right before it.
Yo Jimbo! Glad to see ya back!
Thanks!
I had a similar issue with losing connection to an Arduino and the fix ended up turning down the max CPU state from %100 to something like %30. I had tried everything but that's what ended up fixing it.
Awesome!
Best channel on RUclips.
I figured not having an episode 13 was like not having a thirteenth floor in a building.
Hey Jimbo, where the heck is Episode 13?
I actually looked up your channel today and was wondering where the new episode was. I though it got lost with episode #13. Glad to see your back.
Yeah, this episode took a bit longer to produce. Episode 13 will be released someday
At 8:59, I’m seeing about 20 Volts peak-to-peak (+12 to -8), which is about 7.1 Volts AC RMS, not 12V.
The fact that the ECU isn't necessarily firing directly off the crank sensor is a minor mindbomb for me. I mean I've only had experience using a modified stock ECU using the stock crank sensor but I always assumed it knew exactly where the crank was and adjusted timing accordingly. This is the channel that just keeps on giving!
Hey Adam, one additional curious thing is that as ECUs got faster, over the years, more teeth were added to the crank wheel, to further reduce the “guessing” that needs to be done.
@@gregholloway2656 I believe you are mistaken. Most crank sensors max out at 60 teeth. Even the most basic EFI setup can keep track of 60 teeth.
There's not much point in having a crankshaft sensor that isn't capable of accurately tracking the position of the crankshaft.
@@rars0n you are probably right. I was thinking of LS crank wheels, where the early engines had 24 teeth, and the later 58. Perhaps it was the sensors improving more than the ecus.
@@gregholloway2656 Yeah there's definitely been a lot of improvements in the sensors themselves. Early crank sensors were pretty unreliable.
My dad and i are about to start this up but with an iron duke fiero engine…we’re turbo charging it and figuring out efi
Couldn’t wait. Great content for sunday evning thank You 🙏
If the other laptop does not fix the serial dropping out, try shielding your entire ignition system. During the EFI conversion of my Samurai i encountered an identical problem, all cables, all laptops that i tried would just drop out after the engine started(i also had a problem with it dropping out right after cranking, which was caused by the lack of a flyback diode on my test stand's starter solenoid relay). I first used aluminum foil to shield the harness, but later used proper alu tape to cover the coil on plug coil's boot, as it was originally designed to be sunk deep into a cylinder head it probably wasn't designed to be the cleanest regarding EMI.
The new laptop arrived yesterday afternoon and it works perfect. My little Acer has taken a beating and the usb line has been zapped a number of times, I'm afraid the computer has seen better days.
nice thing about the gas tank is location, don't care which side you stop at the gas pump
Finally the best RUclips project got an update. All is perfect now
To avoid losing communication, try to use a HC-06 Bluetooth on the Speeduino. It's great!
“When it snows, you have two choices: shovel or make snow angels.”
Wow. The engine sounds way different. Didn’t realize
I've been waiting for this from the UK 🙌
Same, I am from Finland.
13:55 I've often wondered about this too. My drip machine even has a "strong" button. If I wanted weak-ass coffee, wouldn't I just use fewer grounds? I would, but I don't.
If you can't duct cooling air through the front, I think you need a go fast hood scoop. Maybe design a shaker scoop for it.
Busts out the dictionary. Now this build is getting serious.
Love this wonderful project, and all the useful information 👍😁
I have the same laptop, and actually have the same issue when tuning my adaptronic ecu. It’s small making it easy to use in the car but the freezing is annoying lol
Great project and video, a fun series for sure, I'm glad to see someone else beating their head against the norm.
I did a supercharger (chevy smog pump) on a 300cc Kawasaki industrial engine pitbike, blow through cv carburetor using the stock ignition, it made 10lbs boost, it was a great addition. My latest addition to the little motorcycle is a small turbocharger that is plumbed in after the blower for a "twin charged" application. I also went away from the stock ignition and cv carb by adding a megasquirt efi system I purchased from DIY Fuel Injection.
Was a challenge but now it runs and is pretty cool with a good push on your butt as the boost continues to build.
Video footage of it running at my RUclips channel.
By the way Jimbo, where the hell is episode 13?
Welcome to the episode 13 fan club! That twin charged engine is awesome! When you went to EFI, did you run twin throttle bodys?
@@robotcantina8957 no, just one throttle body after the turbo. All air comes in through the inlet of the blower, then compressed air is put into the compressor side of the turbo, then through the throttle body to the plenum chamber where the injector is pointed directly into the intake port and valve.
@@riceburner32 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA on 104k subscribers.. JIMBO
you have the talent and content for these videos that viewers are craving..👍👍
Interesting stuff. Breaking all of this engine computer tech down to a 1 cylinder level can actually help Mr. Average get an idea of what's going on under the hood.
baby steps....
The "strong" button is just a statement, like the door close buttons on an elevator, you can push it all you want or not at all, and the doors still close =)
It wouldn't surprise me if that were true...lol
Can I say this series is so cool lol
You're my hero. I knew my application uses a VR sensor. I have a VR conditioner ready to go but I didn't actually understand what that meant.
Glad the video helped you get a better understanding on the VR sensor