Developing C41 At Home
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Developing C-41 Film at home may seem unattainable to the average hobbyist. However, there are home kits available that make it a breeze!
In this video, I'll take you through what you'll need to get started, mixing the chemicals, and some overall thoughts.
Here are some links to the stuff I used:
C-41 Kit: filmphotography...
Kalt Changing Bag: www.bhphotovide...
Photoflex Changing Tent: www.bhphotovide...
Paterson Film Processor: www.bhphotovide...
Film Squeegee: www.bhphotovide...
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That last shot is stellar.
There's nothing like good old fashioned film, as long as film is in production it's all I'll ever shoot.
Good afternoon! I’ve developed BW it’s been about 10 years. I’ve been hoarding supplies since. I ended up buying an entire professional studio’s kit that I’m sure they used in the 80’s. Great deal, got the stainless sink from them and all. Question!! I have these neat chemical 2 gallon jugs that may be considered vintage nowadays. They have a spout. Not interested in selling due to limited on time, cleaning out all of this stuff. I don’t estimate I’ll get back to developing for a couple years. However that time is nearing. Would you save these jugs for when I do set up the space? Or would you toss them out? I’m saving everything else. **Sidenote: I am going to dabble in color when I start up. I’m not a dreamer per se, and truly get going on this hobby when I’m active. SO, that’s why I’m really hanging on to those 4 - 2 gallon with spout containers. For the color solution someday. That being said. Would you save them?
A quick note to mention that you shouldn't squeegee the film after the stabilising bath as this removes the stabiliser from the film and it will not archive satisfactorally, to minimise the risk of bubbles and spotting you can dip your fingers in stabiliser and with your wetted fingers run them down the length of the film as you would a squeegee. The good thing is you can re wash your film in stab and leave to dry again if you've already done this and want to make sure your film is to archival standard again.
The effect of the stabilizer comes from that which soaks into the emulsion. Stabilizer which remains on the emulsion surface is not effective and can be removed, but doing so with a squeegee invites scratches. Use PhotoFlo and any excess will drain off. Of course, you do not wash the film in water after the stabilizer!
There is a sous chef heater. I dont see you use one. Do you recommend
This was an old video. I do use one now. Makes keeping temp very easy
Using a squeegee is the quickest and most certain way to scratched negatives. Instead, (1) mix your stabilizer with distilled water to eliminate hard water spots, and (2) add a couple of drops of Photoflo (or similar product) to the mixed stabilizer. After washing your film, soak it in the stabilizer for whatever time is indicated, then hang to dry without wiping. No spots, no dirt, and o scratches!!
Hello, thanks for this, I just got a development kit from Arista. I've developed black and white well five rolls. The only thing that throws me off with this color system is you have to extend the development time for each additional roll in the future and the math of that. throws me off. Is there a chart that can be printed out with the proper additional time for each additional Roll?
Every product is going to have its own (different) program for extending development times as you use and then reuse the same developer solution, so no one size fits all. Some say to add so many seconds for each additional roll of film; others use a percentage formula to add such time. If you cannot add so many seconds for each roll and prepare your own table of extended development times, you have two choices: (1) get a friend to do it for you, or (2) give up photography, of at least DIY film processing, because if you can't do this, you haven't a chance of mastering the tasks to come. The practical problem with extended development with reusing chemicals to save money is that most folks go way beyond the limits of reuse specified for the chemistry. Reuse degrades the finished product, starting a roll #2;; the question is how much does it degrade and still be acceptable. Most folks cannot tell the difference until they try to get prints and the colors are "off".
Hey! Appreciate the video. I'm thinking about doing some home development myself. Wondering a few things:
1. Do you really need a foot bath or immersion circulator to keep the tank at temp in while you're developing?
2. How do you find the results compare to a decent photo lab?
Hi! No, just a reliable thermometer. I use a mop bucket to put the chems in and bring them up to temp. Once the developer is at 102, take them out. The Blix works fine at a greater range of temps and won't be out long enough to be out of that range. Yes, the development compares favorable to photo labs. Where a decent lab comes in handy is the scanning!
I used to have to strain the silver from the developer through steelwool and take it to a local developing shop where they would get rid of it for me. Except nowdays these types of places are closed and or gone.
Can you explain to us the process of how to dispose of our silver by product from developing?
Here in Denver the city sanitation has curbside pickup for over 15 lbs of hazardous chemicals. I believe you can have them picked up once a year for free. So I stockpile the chems safely away until I have a lot, then arrange for pickup. Maybe your municipality has something similar?
Whether B&W or color, the dissolved silver is in the fixer, not in the used developer. Dissolved silver is recovered by mixing it with a reagent which changes its chemical character. I don't think straining it though steel wool would do anything except filtering out some larger, loose, unrelated crud. Unless you are generating large volumes (gallons) of waste fixer, I cannot see how you would use any of the available chemical of electrical processes to justify the time and cost of silver recovery. Back in the 1970s, a couple of companies sold small electrolysis kits of around $150 which would plate silver out of fixer onto a replaceable terminate, which you then sent to the company for a few bucks and a replacement element. When silver went down to $15 an ounce, there was no economic incentive, so what little product was there disappeared. If you are generating less than 5 gallons of fully used fixer a month, mix it with several volumes of water and put it down the drain or a dry sump if you have one. Saving fixer up and disposing it all at once is more harmful than flushing it in small volumes as used up.
Great video, Hans! Quick question.. where did you find the film spool with the feed-guides on it. I, myself am a bit rusty and getting the film on to the roll. Thanks :o)
Here ya go: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/122937-REG/Omega_455032_Universal_Adjustable_Multi_format_Reel.html
Thank YOU!
Can you use metal canisters? All mine are metal and I've gotten really accustomed to using them.
Oh I'm sure you can! I've just always used the plastic canisters, but it's the temp and chems that matter.
andrew howard Yes you can, any developing canister that's designed to hold the appropriate sized film will work, temp consistency is key and if you check my channel you'll see a review of a digibase kit that allows development at a much more manageable 25C or stand at room temperature.
what did you use to scan?
What are you using to scan your negatives?
An Epson V700