Omega Instructions video 2b: Why Dry Processing Does Not Work
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- Understand why dry grinding does not work as a surface preparation technique for urethane coating sealers such as Omega Concrete Countertop Sealer.
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Wish I would have known this before I invested $ in Omega sealer! Also would have loved to know to buy Smooth On Xtend it with the product. UGH, need instructions before ordering!
If I already dry sanded... would wet hand sanding fix the problem before I seal?
Don't worry Rebecca, all is not lost! One of the main reasons dry sanding can cause problems is that is smears wax residue from the forms into the surface of the concrete, and that wax residue is then very difficult to get out by light wet sanding. Since you used feather finish concrete, you didn't have any forms and therefore no wax. To be safe, at least lightly wet sand the surface with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper as shown starting at about 2:07 in the wet processing video at ruclips.net/video/o-ozL7ii2-w/видео.html.
Do I need to re-wet polish for adhesion of the Omega Sealer (just ordered)?
This is for my home project.....daughters 49x22 bath vanity top. Being uneducated before watching your videos, we experimented. We used qwkret countertop mix (miss spelled - not sure if allowed to put brand name). Used a melamine cast. Wet polished up to 800grt. We used water based stains and sealer.....FAILURE. Not even close to a decent color or finish. Stripped it completely and cleaned. Used 2 colors of acid stain but it was very hard working with and i believe it was due to the 800grt wet honning. She likes the colors now with acid. Before I use the Omega, should I re-wet polish with 200 or 400 or another, to acquire a good bond?
Thank you for replies in advance
It is possible to re-wet polish. Please see this article: concretecountertopinstitute.com/free-training/surface-prep-omega-concrete-countertop-sealer/ I added that to the video description too.
great video and agree, although using a different sealer. what's your drying time recommendation after wet surface prep?
We recommend a minimum of 12 hours or overnight. Keep in mind that cooler shop temperatures slow evaporation. You should also wipe down the surface with 100% acetone prior to sealing.
@@TheConcreteCountertopInstitute thanks. 12 hrs appears not much for a pu sealer with limited breathability. and why acetone?
12 hours is usually sufficient depending on temperature and humidity. Longer is always better. Acetone will help any remaining water evaporate, and also helps remove any surface contamination, like dust and fingerprint oils. Of course you need to use a lint-free cloth. :-)
Question: I have poured and lightly colored vanity tops that I want to polish out after having removed primer and paint from them. There are a few stains and scratches-mainly I just want them to look better. The regular pads didnt do much so I bought a diamond pad that is leaving marks I dont like. I obviously can not do a wet method polish here. What is the answer?
Could you damp hone? It's easy to control the water and keep it from getting everywhere. See ruclips.net/video/gid5FCUpyTI/видео.html
I image difficult to wet sand on a pour in place inside a kitchen with the way run off ?
If I dry sanded smooth , then etched the surface for the finish coat could that we?
Thanks
Hi Tim. I strongly recommend not dry sanding at all. It's actually not too hard to control water runoff when wet sanding. I just did it in a kitchen in order to help an alumnus reseal with Omega. We used a palm sander with one of the CCI 100 grit diamond pads, and used rolled up towels to contain the water. We used just enough water to keep the surface wet - you can spray it on with a spray bottle.
I'm going to go ahead and post a rough video of it to this channel so you can see, but I'll be replacing it soon with a better video with better sound and text.
Depending on how smooth or rough your surface is currently, you might be fine with just 100 grit, or you may need to proceed to 200 grit. Or, the current surface might be smooth enough that all you need is a light sanding with 200 grit.
You do not need to and should not proceed past 200 grit. (See concretecountertopinstitute.com/free-training/why-is-the-200-grit-disc-special-for-concrete-countertops/.)
Be aware that any sanding might open pinholes in the surface that you would then need to grout and sand. See concretecountertopinstitute.com/free-training/how-to-grout-to-fill-pinholes-in-concrete-countertop/ for more information.
Tim, here is the new video: ruclips.net/video/gid5FCUpyTI/видео.html
Great video. Just wondering, will the omega sealer also work well on a concrete that has been wet-polished with diamond pad up to 1000 - 3000 grit ? Thanks in advance.
No. There is no urethane coating that should be applied to a surface polished to 1000+ grit. Coatings need some "tooth" to stick to, so as a general rule of thumb you should stop at 200 grit for any coating. Plus, the coating provides the (very natural and non-plasticky) feel and the look of the surface, so getting it extra smooth beforehand is not necessary.
Is it safe to use a regular electric orbit sander to use with wet diamant pads?
Please see my video about wet processing prep for Omega, where I show spraying the surface with water at about 4:50 minutes. ruclips.net/video/o-ozL7ii2-w/видео.html
The Concrete Countertop Institute you don’t spray water at any point during the video, I was wondering the same thing
Can i use dry grinding and polishing up to 100 grid and do the last step wet with 200 grid?
Our advice, for a number of reasons, is to hone your concrete wet. I typically start and finish with 200 grit wet, so it’s a single step - unless I’m making a terrazzo or other exposed aggregate finish, in which case, I do start lower, but I’ve found I always get the best and most consistent results wet with diamond pads.
If we are redoing a countertop that was sealed with epoxy that is now flaking, where do we start?
The first step is to completely remove the epoxy. I recommend using a chemical stripper. Please see this article: concretecountertopinstitute.com/free-training/reseal-concrete-countertops/, particularly "Chemically Stripping to Bare Concrete" and "Ensuring You Have Bare Concrete".