Learn more about how to use a self-watering planter: For a QUICK intro to SIPs (under 5 mins): ruclips.net/video/CXyV-XsQWNE/видео.html Self-watering SIP Sub-irrigated Raised Bed Construction (How to Build) ruclips.net/video/Lp9Jdyno9hI/видео.html SIP Raised Bed (Update 1) + Self-Watering Containers + How-To Monitor Moisture Levels : ruclips.net/video/5orIjYKFRgE/видео.html SIP Raised Bed (Update 2) + Watering & Aeration Screen Explanation ruclips.net/video/VJ2T6gUv8Gc/видео.html Self-watering planters have pros & cons. Read more about how they can benefit you the most: albopepper.com/sip_expectations.php
Thank you for this video about winterizing! I live in Michigan and built my first SIP this summer late in the season. I was still able to enjoy some tomatoes, basil and chives. I'm still waiting on the cucumbers. I was nervous about what would happen with it in our cold snow winter. Now I have more confidence! Thanks!!
Thank you for all this information! Your my favorite gardening vbloger. I study your presentations and am using sub irrigated totes if your design on my small balcony. Just now watching your video I see we both live in Pittsburgh PA! I live in Greentree.
Great video. Very informative and thoroughly researched. It took me forever to find any info on how to deal with wicking beds in the winter, so I'm very grateful to discover this video. Most wicking bed enthusiasts are in warmer climates, so it's good see that it's possible in colder places. Covering them up seems like the best idea to eliminate freezing/water expansion issues. Another method I've seen for enabling draining of wicking beds, is to use an elbow shaped drain pipe coming out the side. For a full reservoir, you turn the elbow upwards, then when you need to drain out, turn the elbow towards the ground and the reservoir becomes significantly lower. As for totes that break down with sun and cold, there are other options: Feed troughs, also called stock tanks (very thick rubberized plastic or galvanized metal-- expensive, however). Tubs for livestock to feed out of (the round ones). Food grade plastic barrels (55 gallon, generally -- can find cheap used ones -- can be cut in half to make smaller ones) IBC (stands for intermedidate bulk container -- they can be cut in half and it is possible to find used ones pretty cheap -- they're nice and big, too). The plastic used on the above-mentioned items might be better for not leaching things into the soil, if that is a concern, as well.
Excellent thank you for this info, I have 4 very large raised planter boxes, Im in Oregon I get snow, so great info. Your raised boxes would probably work very well in a green house too.
Good Video. If you leave the roots to decompose in soil you will have phosphorus and potassium ready next year around. And I would mulch this or compost this now for it to be broken down for spring. Good Video.
In your video for SIP beds you recommended a bulkhead/valve setup to drain the water from the epdm liner before it freezes for the winter. Did you have a particular product in mind sized for 2 x 12" lumber? I have yet to be able to find a bulkhead/valve product to fit 1 3/4" lumber. The rest of your instructional was extremely helpful and was a great guide for a beginner wicking bed gardener. And guidance would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed.
You could also just use the original lids for your totes instead of the tarps, so the lids don't go to waste and you don't have the added expense (or carbon footprint, or future landfill space). You would have to change the fill tube design by possibly adding a reducer fitting that you could remove and replace with a cap to keep the dirt out during the winter.
+Grae Lewis - Hey Grae, that's an excellent idea! I use the lids as drip trays and for other purposes. So mine don't go to waste. But most people would probably benefit from using your tip. Thanks a bunch!
+AlboPepper Thanks Al. I've got about a dozen totes of this size left over from mucking out my storage and want to use them for sip beds just like this. I've been thinking about ways to make them last longer and help avoid the bulging at the top that causes cracks (exacerbated by UV deterioration). Possibly something like Krylon Fusion for plastic with UV protection (I want to change the color anyway as mine are dark gray but they do have clear available), then adding a metal strap around the top just under the edge for reinforcement (possibly plumbers tape as it already has holes in it that a small bolt could be slipped through). Possibly reinforcing the lip with duct tape (where it would be getting the most direct UV exposure). Thanks for the videos!
Time to winterized your SIP garden! I filmed this video on Nov 26th & it was 11° F above average. Today, it's Dec 12th. Here in Pittsburgh PA the record high of 64° F (2007) was shattered as we hit 70° F!!! That is 30° F above average! Things are messed up guys...
Building raised beds this week and so glad for your videos so I can do this! They will be a 'U' shape around a 6 x 10 greenhouse. I was planning on equipping the sunny side with a cold frame for spinach/kale through the winter. Do you think it would make it through the winter without freezing in the tubes if I put either a radiant barrier or styrofoam along the bed wall before installing the lining? I am in Tulsa(zone 6b). Thanks for all the great information and videos!
hi , great channel , i was wondering if you knew of a way as your channel deals with a lot of urban gardening issues how could i pot bulbs in fall in a zone 4 climate and prep them for being housed in containers in a canadian winter outside. i live in a big apartment building with no cold type garage room to store my potted bulbs in. You touched upon winterizing your containers so i was just curious if you've ever tried this with bulbs without the contents of the pots completely becoming an ice block? And or being affected by the consistent hot and cold winter weather fluctuations?
Great informative video. Your website and channel are really helping me a lot. I am in the process of making a SIP planter cart and a couple totes according to your plans, using the 4" drainage pipe. In terms of winterizing, I am thinking of planting a container blueberry bush in a SIP tote, which will be left outside for the winter, so the plant gets its required chill hours. My plan is to winterize it (zone 7 - Philadelphia) by placing a layer of straw on top, covering with plastic (with a hole for the bush to protrude, and draining the reservoir, and then leaving it in a sheltered location outside along the north wall of my rowhouse. I think this will be a fine plan for the regular container blueberries. Do you think this will work for the SIP, too? Do you think further insulation underneath or on the sides may be required, in light of the air in the reservoir? Thanks for all of these wonderful resources, and hello from the other corner of Pennsylvania!
Hi Colin! I don't typically grow perennials in SIPs. But your ideas for draining and sheltering make sense and I think the plants would have a shot. I don't know for sure about blueberries. Their roots might not like the higher levels of water saturation.... or... perhaps they would love it? Just be sure to check soil pH, making sure they have proper acidity. I'd be very interested to see your results!
@@Albopepper Thanks for the response! I am going to do most of the blueberries in regular containers and one in the SIP tote, so I can compare and let you know how it goes. I did see a fellow in Texas growing blueberries in a SIP, so I am hopeful. If not, I did purchase the 1 year guarantee with the plants. :)
Hey! I didn't realize you were in the 'Burgh! I lived in the South Hills for 22 years before moving to Florida. What part of the city do you live in? Say 'hi' to the Steelers, Penguins, and Buccaneers for us! -- Always enjoy your videos.
Nice! I'm on the eastern end. We've been getting some erratic, but generally warmer weather this year. Very mild winter. Record breaking temps at all different months of the year.
I live in Southwest Florida - what's this "winterizing" you speak of! :) Seriously I found this and your other SIP videos very helpful and I plan on building one (perhaps on wheels) to go on my driveway. Thanks for the info.
Hey there Albo. I was wondering if you could help me out. I'm working on my first SIP and I'm following your guide lines. But I didn't get to see how you placed your soil mixer on to and around the corrugated tubes. Did you have to lay down a foundation of soil before placing the tubes down or did you place the tubes down and then just poured in the soil and moved them into the crevasse between the tubes? Thanks for all of your hard work in making these informative videos. Do you by chance have a cold box and are you considering making one?
Hi Kiet! I place the pipes 1st. Then I pour the potting mix over them and gently squeeze the mix in between all of the gaps. I use a thin stick to help.
@@Albopepper Oh thank you for responding! I just got my box built and I'm about to work on the pond liner. I do have another question about the outflow drain. I'm using pvc pipes and I was wonder if you think using water silicone for the outlet hole, is that a good idea? Oh and did you by chance drove any spikes or post down into the soil for stability? I know you've dug a bit deeper for the frame to lay in and I was wondering if that little extra depth also served as a means to hold the box in place.
+Scott Porwancher - Hi Scott! Good question. I have an SIP box on legs: albopepper.com/grow-box.php I'm entering year 6 and it still has the original potting mix in it. I've simply fluffed it up and continued to top it off over the years. It partly depends on what you fill it with. Using potting mix based materials means a much better lifespan than using materials that are meant to go in the ground.
Do you think a SIP bed would work well for perennials like Raspberries or Strawberries in a zone 5b/6a? Especially for Strawberries which require their own proper winterization?
Hi Tucker! That's an excellent question. I personally don't recommend it. I wrote an article mentioning my reasons: albopepper.com/sip_expectations.php Hope that helps out!
+AlboPepper Yes. With the worms in there you already have a living soil. Just keep it mulched and when you plan on winterizing it - move the mulch to one side and throw some compost and EWC on it then do the other side. Those root balls would add aeration and more food for the worms wouldn't they? Just a thought. Thanks for the video! Learned a lot.
Learn more about how to use a self-watering planter:
For a QUICK intro to SIPs (under 5 mins):
ruclips.net/video/CXyV-XsQWNE/видео.html
Self-watering SIP Sub-irrigated Raised Bed Construction (How to Build)
ruclips.net/video/Lp9Jdyno9hI/видео.html
SIP Raised Bed (Update 1) + Self-Watering Containers + How-To Monitor Moisture Levels :
ruclips.net/video/5orIjYKFRgE/видео.html
SIP Raised Bed (Update 2) + Watering & Aeration Screen Explanation
ruclips.net/video/VJ2T6gUv8Gc/видео.html
Self-watering planters have pros & cons. Read more about how they can benefit you the most: albopepper.com/sip_expectations.php
most of these gardening channels ramble on and are not concise, yours is very concise thanks for actually making good videos
Thank-you for your support of my channel! xD
Thank you for this video about winterizing! I live in Michigan and built my first SIP this summer late in the season. I was still able to enjoy some tomatoes, basil and chives. I'm still waiting on the cucumbers. I was nervous about what would happen with it in our cold snow winter. Now I have more confidence! Thanks!!
Thank you for all this information! Your my favorite gardening vbloger. I study your presentations and am using sub irrigated totes if your design on my small balcony. Just now watching your video I see we both live in Pittsburgh PA! I live in Greentree.
Great video. Very informative and thoroughly researched.
It took me forever to find any info on how to deal with wicking beds in the winter, so I'm very grateful to discover this video. Most wicking bed enthusiasts are in warmer climates, so it's good see that it's possible in colder places. Covering them up seems like the best idea to eliminate freezing/water expansion issues.
Another method I've seen for enabling draining of wicking beds, is to use an elbow shaped drain pipe coming out the side. For a full reservoir, you turn the elbow upwards, then when you need to drain out, turn the elbow towards the ground and the reservoir becomes significantly lower.
As for totes that break down with sun and cold, there are other options:
Feed troughs, also called stock tanks (very thick rubberized plastic or galvanized metal-- expensive, however).
Tubs for livestock to feed out of (the round ones).
Food grade plastic barrels (55 gallon, generally -- can find cheap used ones -- can be cut in half to make smaller ones)
IBC (stands for intermedidate bulk container -- they can be cut in half and it is possible to find used ones pretty cheap -- they're nice and big, too).
The plastic used on the above-mentioned items might be better for not leaching things into the soil, if that is a concern, as well.
Excellent thank you for this info, I have 4 very large raised planter boxes, Im in Oregon I get snow, so great info. Your raised boxes would probably work very well in a green house too.
Good Video. If you leave the roots to decompose in soil you will have phosphorus and potassium ready next year around. And I would mulch this or compost this now for it to be broken down for spring. Good Video.
I will be installing a plug to drain in fall. We get 100 days of frost free weather and -40 winters.
Oh wow! That's really cold. Just be careful when handling those plastics as they can get really brittle in the cold.
This answered my over winter questions - thanks!
Excellent! Thanks for watching. :)
I would like to thank you on how to prepare your raised bed for winterizing... I am planting to build one this coming spring...
+Ed Cast - Thanks Ed! Sounds good man. These systems have been working great for me. I'm glad that other people are able to benefit from them as well!
Your planting box itself IS self watering by capillary action. It is just the water source that is regulated manually or automatically.
In your video for SIP beds you recommended a bulkhead/valve setup to drain the water from the epdm liner before it freezes for the winter. Did you have a particular product in mind sized for 2 x 12" lumber? I have yet to be able to find a bulkhead/valve product to fit 1 3/4" lumber. The rest of your instructional was extremely helpful and was a great guide for a beginner wicking bed gardener. And guidance would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed.
You could also just use the original lids for your totes instead of the tarps, so the lids don't go to waste and you don't have the added expense (or carbon footprint, or future landfill space). You would have to change the fill tube design by possibly adding a reducer fitting that you could remove and replace with a cap to keep the dirt out during the winter.
+Grae Lewis - Hey Grae, that's an excellent idea! I use the lids as drip trays and for other purposes. So mine don't go to waste. But most people would probably benefit from using your tip. Thanks a bunch!
+AlboPepper Thanks Al. I've got about a dozen totes of this size left over from mucking out my storage and want to use them for sip beds just like this. I've been thinking about ways to make them last longer and help avoid the bulging at the top that causes cracks (exacerbated by UV deterioration). Possibly something like Krylon Fusion for plastic with UV protection (I want to change the color anyway as mine are dark gray but they do have clear available), then adding a metal strap around the top just under the edge for reinforcement (possibly plumbers tape as it already has holes in it that a small bolt could be slipped through). Possibly reinforcing the lip with duct tape (where it would be getting the most direct UV exposure). Thanks for the videos!
Loving your channel, Al!
Thanks Kimberly! I really appreciate your support! :D
Time to winterized your SIP garden!
I filmed this video on Nov 26th & it was 11° F above average. Today, it's Dec 12th. Here in Pittsburgh PA the record high of 64° F (2007) was shattered as we hit 70° F!!! That is 30° F above average! Things are messed up guys...
Good video I never thought about winterizing. Wouldn't using the totes lids work best? .......EDIT: Just noticed older comments addressed this.
Building raised beds this week and so glad for your videos so I can do this! They will be a 'U' shape around a 6 x 10 greenhouse. I was planning on equipping the sunny side with a cold frame for spinach/kale through the winter. Do you think it would make it through the winter without freezing in the tubes if I put either a radiant barrier or styrofoam along the bed wall before installing the lining? I am in Tulsa(zone 6b). Thanks for all the great information and videos!
Thank you.Very nice explanations .
hi , great channel , i was wondering if you knew of a way as your channel deals with a lot of urban gardening issues how could i pot bulbs in fall in a zone 4 climate and prep them for being housed in containers in a canadian winter outside. i live in a big apartment building with no cold type garage room to store my potted bulbs in. You touched upon winterizing your containers so i was just curious if you've ever tried this with bulbs without the contents of the pots completely becoming an ice block? And or being affected by the consistent hot and cold winter weather fluctuations?
Great informative video. Your website and channel are really helping me a lot. I am in the process of making a SIP planter cart and a couple totes according to your plans, using the 4" drainage pipe.
In terms of winterizing, I am thinking of planting a container blueberry bush in a SIP tote, which will be left outside for the winter, so the plant gets its required chill hours. My plan is to winterize it (zone 7 - Philadelphia) by placing a layer of straw on top, covering with plastic (with a hole for the bush to protrude, and draining the reservoir, and then leaving it in a sheltered location outside along the north wall of my rowhouse. I think this will be a fine plan for the regular container blueberries. Do you think this will work for the SIP, too? Do you think further insulation underneath or on the sides may be required, in light of the air in the reservoir? Thanks for all of these wonderful resources, and hello from the other corner of Pennsylvania!
Hi Colin! I don't typically grow perennials in SIPs. But your ideas for draining and sheltering make sense and I think the plants would have a shot. I don't know for sure about blueberries. Their roots might not like the higher levels of water saturation.... or... perhaps they would love it? Just be sure to check soil pH, making sure they have proper acidity. I'd be very interested to see your results!
@@Albopepper Thanks for the response! I am going to do most of the blueberries in regular containers and one in the SIP tote, so I can compare and let you know how it goes. I did see a fellow in Texas growing blueberries in a SIP, so I am hopeful. If not, I did purchase the 1 year guarantee with the plants. :)
Hey! I didn't realize you were in the 'Burgh! I lived in the South Hills for 22 years before moving to Florida. What part of the city do you live in? Say 'hi' to the Steelers, Penguins, and Buccaneers for us! -- Always enjoy your videos.
Nice! I'm on the eastern end. We've been getting some erratic, but generally warmer weather this year. Very mild winter. Record breaking temps at all different months of the year.
Which connectors do you use for the pvc cage? Which is pretty cool btw.
Thanks! I bought the special fittings from Amazon: bit.ly/28KjB30 xD
Thanks, I knew they were not the ones you buy at the regular diy store.
I live in Southwest Florida - what's this "winterizing" you speak of! :) Seriously I found this and your other SIP videos very helpful and I plan on building one (perhaps on wheels) to go on my driveway. Thanks for the info.
+Karl Becker - LOL good one Karl. Thanks for your support. I'm glad you found the videos to be helpful!
Hey there Albo. I was wondering if you could help me out. I'm working on my first SIP and I'm following your guide lines. But I didn't get to see how you placed your soil mixer on to and around the corrugated tubes. Did you have to lay down a foundation of soil before placing the tubes down or did you place the tubes down and then just poured in the soil and moved them into the crevasse between the tubes?
Thanks for all of your hard work in making these informative videos. Do you by chance have a cold box and are you considering making one?
Hi Kiet! I place the pipes 1st. Then I pour the potting mix over them and gently squeeze the mix in between all of the gaps. I use a thin stick to help.
@@Albopepper Oh thank you for responding! I just got my box built and I'm about to work on the pond liner. I do have another question about the outflow drain. I'm using pvc pipes and I was wonder if you think using water silicone for the outlet hole, is that a good idea? Oh and did you by chance drove any spikes or post down into the soil for stability? I know you've dug a bit deeper for the frame to lay in and I was wondering if that little extra depth also served as a means to hold the box in place.
Excellent tips sir. New sub here!
Glad to hear! Thanks for you support. :-D
How many years can you use the same potting mixture without needing to completely change it out?
+Scott Porwancher - Hi Scott! Good question. I have an SIP box on legs: albopepper.com/grow-box.php I'm entering year 6 and it still has the original potting mix in it. I've simply fluffed it up and continued to top it off over the years. It partly depends on what you fill it with. Using potting mix based materials means a much better lifespan than using materials that are meant to go in the ground.
Do you think a SIP bed would work well for perennials like Raspberries or Strawberries in a zone 5b/6a? Especially for Strawberries which require their own proper winterization?
Hi Tucker! That's an excellent question. I personally don't recommend it. I wrote an article mentioning my reasons: albopepper.com/sip_expectations.php Hope that helps out!
Have you thought about making this a no-till?
+DntBrnDPig - Hmm, it doesn't get rototilled. Do you mean to leave the roots in place and not turn over the soil surface?
+AlboPepper Yes. With the worms in there you already have a living soil. Just keep it mulched and when you plan on winterizing it - move the mulch to one side and throw some compost and EWC on it then do the other side. Those root balls would add aeration and more food for the worms wouldn't they? Just a thought. Thanks for the video! Learned a lot.