Guys I am so glad I ran across this video... I will be watching all of them. I just bought me a 120 year old house and it does have some great prudential'. And there will be a stair case like this going in. But it's going to be made of red cedar. I've never done one before... but like my dad always said there is a first time for everything. Thanks you two... oh and you have a new subscriber...
Wow that is awesome!! So glad to "pave" the road so to say. I'll be creating a time lapse of the whole build, but definitely check out the playlist for the details. Thanks again.
Wahooo...wooohh!! I was tensing and pulling right along with you guys! I'm praying hard it stays! Great idea, good effort, and team work! Lol, love Viggo... frosty Shep! I bet he really thought you guys were working on some tossing sticks for him! Teehee. Can't wait to see if this works!!🤞smiles and blessings...
Looking good, if the spring back isn't to much. My guess is that it will be , hopefully I am wrong. A couple of things I might try if I were doing this and it still springs back to much.....make the strips thinner, and glue it when you get it bent into position, let it set and it shouldn't spring back much....I doubt. The only way I think to clamp the glued bent pieces together would be hose clamps, would need a bunch (well maybe 10) to do it. I might look at bending around a piece braced back to the center post of the entire stairway, not sure that would work though. I am waiting anticipation (like the Carly Simon song) !
Yeah, it had quite a bit of spring back, you'll see in the next video. We might be able to use zip ties to hold together...we're on pins and needles too!
Glue full assembly or at least each strip as you go....full cover ,, small roller works best... if it's dried/cured it will not spring back .. Not an overnight process..
Thanks for the tip! But don't you want to avoid having the wood cool before getting your bending done? How long would you leave it in place for before taking out of clamps?
@@ColoradoMountainLiving Hi Amy and Brian, I would think until the wood was cold or room temperature and most of the moisture is out of the wood. Maybe two days I’m guessing. But it still will try to go back a little bit to it’s original state. The photo that I email you of the stair case I made some years ago I did not steam the oak strips. The hand rail was 1-1/2” thick x 6” by the total length of the case. You may have to cut the strips thinner and use more glue. Your on the right track with clamping them close to the stair tread. Great job.
If this was my project, I would set the depth of the cut between the bandsaw blade and the fence. Maybe, 3/16 of an inch. Once you set the depth, don't move it. Then cut your stripes all to 3/16s. Try this thickness and if it is too thick, go to 1/8 inch. Experiment a little until you find the ideal thickness. EngelsCoachShop channel has a 20 minute video called "My Top 10 Reasons Why Steam Bending Wood Fails | Engels Coach Shop" that may help figure out what not to do for your railing. I am pulling for you guys - I know Brian will get this done - cheers
You have this! Just gluing them back together on the mold will be the messy part! after made whole then apply to the tops of the posts! May need that many more to pick from?
I think we are close! So going to give it a go with green wood, but I think it's important to do the bending before it cools and don't want to chance wasting time with glue before bending into shape. We're going to get a few more to choose.
You need the extra steaming time because you're at high altitude - water boils at a lower temperature. For the bandsaw, you'll need a blade with something like 3 teeth per inch and deep gullets. Each tooth creates a lot of sawdust and the saw uses a lot of power dragging the dust through the kerf. I might try getting a red cedar 2x4 and ripping it into thin strips. Then spread glue on that and clamp it to your posts. When it's dry, that's your form. It should be stiff enough to clamp the natural wood to. It would help to have a steel strap on the outside of the bend to contain the wood fibers, but with a log I'm not sure how to keep it in place. Look up steaming inside a plastic bag, that is used on wooden boats and helps keep the steam in place while you are clamping.
That's a great point about the altitude factor. I wish we had cedar around here; would have to be a special order. Just reviewed a neat video on steam bending , the guy who does wagon wheels. Lots of good tips, but we are trying to do the job with what we have.
I build circular staircases for a living, the poster who suggested thin laminations is correct. You'll also need a glue with a rigid bond line such as a plastic resin glue (Dap makes one that I think the box-stores offer)
@@ColoradoMountainLiving It depends on species and grain structure as to how thin you need to go. As a general rule you should be able to bend the strips into an arc with moderate pressure. As to glue......A glue that offers a rigid bond line and has gap filling ability that'll work with high moisture wood is an animal I'm not familiar with. Plastic resin require adequate clamping, controlled temps. and surface prep.
More 'cause I can't fit it all in one post. Maybe borrow a surface planer in order to obtain a gluable surface? As far as steaming, it's okay so long as you let the wood dry before gluing. Given the amount of work required to successfully bend rail take your time and do everything you can to avoid mistakes.
So last question, for working with green wood. Would you do wait to do the glueing? Or is it reasonably dry enough (not steamed) to glue as we go? Right now the strips are really flexible at 1/4 inch, and we're able to make our curves without any steaming.
Amy! just a reminder. That little 10" band saw isn't a replacement for the table saw, sawzall, chain saw, or sabre saw. It has it's own expertise. I'm sure you know that.......
You probably have this all figured by now, but what about notches (I mentioned before).? That is, take a whole uncut/sliced stick and notch or slice it on the inside concave side to a depth of about two thirds and then steam it and mount it. I know the notches would show, but they could be filled in with glued wood inlays if necessary. As I wrote in a previous message, my wife and I did this with Sheetrock, but I don't know if it would work in your case, and it would be more time consuming. Anyway, just a thought. ~~~~ PS: I'm on my way to pick up chicken for your homemade chicken soup recipe.
It doesn't have the rough hewn rustic look you are going for but there is a product called Bendywood if all else fails. I have never used it, I just know it exists.
(If you 'can' steam a full length piece) can you not find the outer radius measurement then bend it into a circle of that diameter then S the circle out into near enough a shape you can bully in? I'm sure I'm not suggesting anything new to you here, enjoying the build tho
We need to bend in a circle as well as upwards at the same time. If we only bend the circle, it won't have the upward spiral twist. We're not giving up yet!
@@ColoradoMountainLiving Don't you dare give up I'm hooked now lol, ok so you need a way to create pliability outside of the steamer but a circle would be a good start no? maybe fire is your friend, like how the arrow makers held crooked shafts over fire to bend them straight, maybe you could create a circle of embers to hold the circle over then tease the spiral out, any charring can be sanded out
....The intro is AWESOME !!.. .....This is hard to watch.... .. from 25 year draftsman,,builder,, interior finish carpenter/contractor. ...... ..What's the fire situation up there?? Haven't seen a report of containment past few days ,, hopefully good...horrible losses.....And Colorado Covid cases.....off the charts.....hope there's some relief soon... On next attempt,, rip thinner ,, apply glue before the bend,, cover floor and treads for glue mess ...near impossible to clean up without damaging treads and floor....Use clamps,, parallel clamps best , C-clamps work and cheaper ,use 6" , bar clamps also work but hard to hand tighten tight enough....bend on outside of baluster system,, that way you can pull into place instead of push ,,much easier)....(coffee's ready ... back to the show)....... ..Good to see Viggo healing and doing well.... ..I have never bent natural forest product wet wood,,, and after steaming,, will be saturated,, ...will probably take a full week to hold any kind of bend,, but time will tell...as the phrase goes. "Where there's a will ...There's a way !!"..... ..........there is another phrase. " You can lead a horse to water ....but you can't make him drink"..... ..... Stay Safe and God Bless .....
Thanks for all the advice and tips. I feel like I can relate to the feeling of giving advice and watching people stumble through figuring it out on their own as they eventually come back around to your original advice. I call it "you can't tell anyone anything." hahah. Now we're thinking 3/16 strips, and maybe they won't require any steaming to bend them? And then not worry about when to glue, we can do all the assembly and glueing at once. As far as the fires; there hasnt been any growth, the Cameron peak is 92% contained and East Troublesome is 60% contained, so really well managed at this point. The recent winds have not aggravated the situation at all. Hard to say about Covid, Bryan says the hospital is packed full of Covid patients and they are under pressure to discharge cardiology patients to make room. (whether or not they are ready to go home?)
@@ColoradoMountainLiving ...Just want to see you succeed with this project... with as porous as this type of wood is ,, unless many thin layers used ,, when it finally dries , may split anyway... bending is one direction,, but the twisting will tear fibers... I have done many radius wood projects over many years along with a Colorado mile of bent railing,, but mostly with hardwood materials milled for the purpose.... the key is dry enough to allow glue to adhere then patience enough to let time clamped to create bond... ..Even though air dried on ground (still wet internally) then saturated with steam ,, no way to guage length of time,,complete gamble,, I would try maybe at 5-7days ..🤞🤞 If it doesn't work out,, check with trim mill shops in Denver for the bending rail materials available,,pretty much all hardwoods with the form wood sides necessary..determine total length....most can be bought up to 16 ft. ,,made without splicing will be much easier....there are many different woods used ,, some may still have the desired look or can be distressed after installed..... ...only trying to help ,, not be a ...pita.. ...don't live in Colo. anymore ,,for now..
make a curved mold,,, cut thin strips and glue together w/wood workers glue ,place in mold and let dry over nite when you remove the strips they will retain the curved shape, its used when making rocking chairs and other curved shapes in woodworking ,the internet many examples of this....jack
I thought there would have been a bead of waterproof wood glue between the slates before clamping them to the stairs. FWIW, leave them in place for as long as you can -- couple of days or a week.
@@ColoradoMountainLiving You need a slow set time glue. www.franklinadhesivesandpolymers.com/Wood-Adhesives-US/Wood-Adhesives/application/Edge-and-Face/Titebond-Slow-Set.aspx KEY PRODUCT FEATURES • Slow setting rate • Perfect for stair rails and stringers • Good heat and solvent resistance • 175.105 FDA Compliant You two are on the right track. It is going to look great.
Guys I am so glad I ran across this video... I will be watching all of them. I just bought me a 120 year old house and it does have some great prudential'. And there will be a stair case like this going in. But it's going to be made of red cedar. I've never done one before... but like my dad always said there is a first time for everything. Thanks you two... oh and you have a new subscriber...
Wow that is awesome!! So glad to "pave" the road so to say. I'll be creating a time lapse of the whole build, but definitely check out the playlist for the details. Thanks again.
I like the opening music and snow shots very much.
Thanks! It was quite the wicked weather day yesterday, I wished I could have captured the whiteouts!
really good innovation! Brian fantastic. I think it will stay in shape enough for you to screw it in great job both of you xxx.
Thanks! a couple new ideas to add on to this experiment and I think we might do it.
Wahooo...wooohh!! I was tensing and pulling right along with you guys! I'm praying hard it stays! Great idea, good effort, and team work! Lol, love Viggo... frosty Shep! I bet he really thought you guys were working on some tossing sticks for him! Teehee. Can't wait to see if this works!!🤞smiles and blessings...
hahah thank you! We have a couple more tweaks but almost there!!
Nice job you two! Viggo looks awesome! Love his puppy temperament.
Thank you!!
I love to walk in the snow of the very first snow fall. You are so lucky to be able to do that all winter.....unless, it doesn't snow.
It really is!
..viggo ringing that dinner bell...
..awesome...🤣
☮️&🌱's
😁 he's a character
hello i like your work vary nice and the steps are going be vary nice win done
Hey, thanks
Good luck with this project!! Can't wait to see what happens ❤️
Thank you!! 😊
Looking good, if the spring back isn't to much. My guess is that it will be , hopefully I am wrong. A couple of things I might try if I were doing this and it still springs back to much.....make the strips thinner, and glue it when you get it bent into position, let it set and it shouldn't spring back much....I doubt. The only way I think to clamp the glued bent pieces together would be hose clamps, would need a bunch (well maybe 10) to do it. I might look at bending around a piece braced back to the center post of the entire stairway, not sure that would work though. I am waiting anticipation (like the Carly Simon song) !
Yeah, it had quite a bit of spring back, you'll see in the next video. We might be able to use zip ties to hold together...we're on pins and needles too!
Great job Amy and Brian, you will get spring back without glue in each joint. The glue is the hard job.
Glue full assembly or at least each strip as you go....full cover ,, small roller works best... if it's dried/cured it will not spring back ..
Not an overnight process..
Thanks for the tip! But don't you want to avoid having the wood cool before getting your bending done? How long would you leave it in place for before taking out of clamps?
@@ColoradoMountainLiving Hi Amy and Brian, I would think until the wood was cold or room temperature and most of the moisture is out of the wood. Maybe two days I’m guessing. But it still will try to go back a little bit to it’s original state. The photo that I email you of the stair case I made some years ago I did not steam the oak strips. The hand rail was 1-1/2” thick x 6” by the total length of the case. You may have to cut the strips thinner and use more glue. Your on the right track with clamping them close to the stair tread. Great job.
Ok. Hey could you email that photo again? I just realized I had the email misspelled on our About page for about 2 years. Sounds intriguing!
@@ColoradoMountainLiving sure no problem and if I can help in anyway just ask
If this was my project, I would set the depth of the cut between the bandsaw blade and the fence. Maybe, 3/16 of an inch. Once you set the depth, don't move it. Then cut your stripes all to 3/16s. Try this thickness and if it is too thick, go to 1/8 inch. Experiment a little until you find the ideal thickness. EngelsCoachShop channel has a 20 minute video called "My Top 10 Reasons Why Steam Bending Wood Fails | Engels Coach Shop" that may help figure out what not to do for your railing. I am pulling for you guys - I know Brian will get this done - cheers
That's what Bryan is thinking next. Thinner strips and maybe able to skip the steaming step then. Thanks!!
You have this! Just gluing them back together on the mold will be the messy part! after made whole then apply to the tops of the posts! May need that many more to pick from?
I think we are close! So going to give it a go with green wood, but I think it's important to do the bending before it cools and don't want to chance wasting time with glue before bending into shape. We're going to get a few more to choose.
You need the extra steaming time because you're at high altitude - water boils at a lower temperature. For the bandsaw, you'll need a blade with something like 3 teeth per inch and deep gullets. Each tooth creates a lot of sawdust and the saw uses a lot of power dragging the dust through the kerf.
I might try getting a red cedar 2x4 and ripping it into thin strips. Then spread glue on that and clamp it to your posts. When it's dry, that's your form. It should be stiff enough to clamp the natural wood to. It would help to have a steel strap on the outside of the bend to contain the wood fibers, but with a log I'm not sure how to keep it in place. Look up steaming inside a plastic bag, that is used on wooden boats and helps keep the steam in place while you are clamping.
That's a great point about the altitude factor. I wish we had cedar around here; would have to be a special order. Just reviewed a neat video on steam bending , the guy who does wagon wheels. Lots of good tips, but we are trying to do the job with what we have.
@@ColoradoMountainLiving He's at 3000 feet and I think that's one reason why he uses a pressurized steam box.
I build circular staircases for a living, the poster who suggested thin laminations is correct.
You'll also need a glue with a rigid bond line such as a plastic resin glue (Dap makes one that I think the box-stores offer)
thank you for the confirmation! how thin do you recommend? Wood glue is out of the question then?
@@ColoradoMountainLiving It depends on species and grain structure as to how thin you need to go. As a general rule you should be able to bend the strips into an arc with moderate pressure. As to glue......A glue that offers a rigid bond line and has gap filling ability that'll work with high moisture wood is an animal I'm not familiar with. Plastic resin require adequate clamping, controlled temps. and surface prep.
More 'cause I can't fit it all in one post.
Maybe borrow a surface planer in order to obtain a gluable surface? As far as steaming, it's okay so long as you let the wood dry before gluing. Given the amount of work required to successfully bend rail take your time and do everything you can to avoid mistakes.
So last question, for working with green wood. Would you do wait to do the glueing? Or is it reasonably dry enough (not steamed) to glue as we go? Right now the strips are really flexible at 1/4 inch, and we're able to make our curves without any steaming.
What about Gorilla glue? I know that one requires water for it's use.
If you do anymore try fitting them 1/4-1/8 th inch thinner it will help tremendously with the plyability of the lumber
I think we are going that route next. Our last shot in this video was with 1/4 inch and it was a substantial difference.
Amy! just a reminder. That little 10" band saw isn't a replacement for the table saw, sawzall, chain saw, or sabre saw. It has it's own expertise. I'm sure you know that.......
Ok cool. I'll let Bryan decide which saw is best for which project. It's not my expertise.
You probably have this all figured by now, but what about notches (I mentioned before).? That is, take a whole uncut/sliced stick and notch or slice it on the inside concave side to a depth of about two thirds and then steam it and mount it. I know the notches would show, but they could be filled in with glued wood inlays if necessary. As I wrote in a previous message, my wife and I did this with Sheetrock, but I don't know if it would work in your case, and it would be more time consuming. Anyway, just a thought. ~~~~ PS: I'm on my way to pick up chicken for your homemade chicken soup recipe.
That's an interesting idea. but , I think the thin strips idea will work, just need to try green wood I think. Enjoy the soup!!
All I can say is be careful how many of those you put into the bend form - the rails could bend or break. Oh - GO PLOW!
true, we noticed the lean out on a couple of rails in the last attempt
Heavy duty zip ties could be your answer for clamping like all of us trial and error until success
Great suggestion! We got those
Tie strings around the log every few inches before steaming. That way, your pieces might not break during forming.
They definitely need support at the weak spots (knots, etc) thanks
re aspen splitting try using green wood when steaming not dry!!!!🇦🇺👋
This is pine wood, but yes we are going to try green next! thanks
Why steaming?, I always soak wood before bending, works every time..
It's an easier set up for us to steam. We don't have anything long enough to soak strips in inside; plus it's below freezing out side.
It doesn't have the rough hewn rustic look you are going for but there is a product called Bendywood if all else fails. I have never used it, I just know it exists.
hey this is good to know! thanks
...I JUST REMEMBERED AND FIGURED IT OUT !!! .. THIS IS "IRONMAN" TRAINING !!.......lol..
hahahaha!!!!
(If you 'can' steam a full length piece) can you not find the outer radius measurement then bend it into a circle of that diameter then S the circle out into near enough a shape you can bully in? I'm sure I'm not suggesting anything new to you here, enjoying the build tho
We need to bend in a circle as well as upwards at the same time. If we only bend the circle, it won't have the upward spiral twist. We're not giving up yet!
@@ColoradoMountainLiving Don't you dare give up I'm hooked now lol, ok so you need a way to create pliability outside of the steamer but a circle would be a good start no? maybe fire is your friend, like how the arrow makers held crooked shafts over fire to bend them straight, maybe you could create a circle of embers to hold the circle over then tease the spiral out, any charring can be sanded out
....The intro is AWESOME !!.. .....This is hard to watch.... .. from 25 year draftsman,,builder,, interior finish carpenter/contractor. ......
..What's the fire situation up there?? Haven't seen a report of containment past few days ,, hopefully good...horrible losses.....And Colorado Covid cases.....off the charts.....hope there's some relief soon...
On next attempt,, rip thinner ,, apply glue before the bend,, cover floor and treads for glue mess ...near impossible to clean up without damaging treads and floor....Use clamps,, parallel clamps best , C-clamps work and cheaper ,use 6" , bar clamps also work but hard to hand tighten tight enough....bend on outside of baluster system,, that way you can pull into place instead of push ,,much easier)....(coffee's ready ... back to the show).......
..Good to see Viggo healing and doing well....
..I have never bent natural forest product wet wood,,, and after steaming,, will be saturated,, ...will probably take a full week to hold any kind of bend,, but time will tell...as the phrase goes. "Where there's a will ...There's a way !!".....
..........there is another phrase. " You can lead a horse to water ....but you can't make him drink".....
..... Stay Safe and God Bless .....
Thanks for all the advice and tips. I feel like I can relate to the feeling of giving advice and watching people stumble through figuring it out on their own as they eventually come back around to your original advice. I call it "you can't tell anyone anything." hahah. Now we're thinking 3/16 strips, and maybe they won't require any steaming to bend them? And then not worry about when to glue, we can do all the assembly and glueing at once.
As far as the fires; there hasnt been any growth, the Cameron peak is 92% contained and East Troublesome is 60% contained, so really well managed at this point. The recent winds have not aggravated the situation at all. Hard to say about Covid, Bryan says the hospital is packed full of Covid patients and they are under pressure to discharge cardiology patients to make room. (whether or not they are ready to go home?)
@@ColoradoMountainLiving ...Just want to see you succeed with this project... with as porous as this type of wood is ,, unless many thin layers used ,, when it finally dries , may split anyway... bending is one direction,, but the twisting will tear fibers...
I have done many radius wood projects over many years along with a Colorado mile of bent railing,, but mostly with hardwood materials milled for the purpose.... the key is dry enough to allow glue to adhere then patience enough to let time clamped to create bond...
..Even though air dried on ground (still wet internally) then saturated with steam ,, no way to guage length of time,,complete gamble,, I would try maybe at 5-7days ..🤞🤞
If it doesn't work out,, check with trim mill shops in Denver for the bending rail materials available,,pretty much all hardwoods with the form wood sides necessary..determine total length....most can be bought up to 16 ft. ,,made without splicing will be much easier....there are many different woods used ,, some may still have the desired look or can be distressed after installed.....
...only trying to help ,, not be a ...pita.. ...don't live in Colo. anymore ,,for now..
I just love snow winds rain anything like that i would sit all day at the window Thank you
I do too. It's nice when you are inside enjoying it!
make a curved mold,,, cut thin strips and glue together w/wood workers glue ,place in mold and let dry over nite when you remove
the strips they will retain the curved shape, its used when making rocking chairs and other curved shapes in woodworking ,the internet
many examples of this....jack
Thanks Jack, I think we found a solution, stay tuned for our next video.
Just a thought....they sell premade circular staircases. Lol
By the end of this project I'll have wished for that!! 😁 However, I'm learning new things as I go. B
I thought there would have been a bead of waterproof wood glue between the slates before clamping them to the stairs. FWIW, leave them in place for as long as you can -- couple of days or a week.
We were worried about having the wood cool too much if we did the glue step right away, then making it harder to bend.
@@ColoradoMountainLiving You need a slow set time glue.
www.franklinadhesivesandpolymers.com/Wood-Adhesives-US/Wood-Adhesives/application/Edge-and-Face/Titebond-Slow-Set.aspx
KEY PRODUCT FEATURES
• Slow setting rate
• Perfect for stair rails and stringers
• Good heat and solvent resistance
• 175.105 FDA Compliant
You two are on the right track. It is going to look great.
use some ratchet straps
I think we will! thanks. We added one at the end to support the posts against the bending.
Bonjour c'est du beau travail pas facile chauffe du bois et le plier 😊🤗🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷bisous de France
Thanks. Still figuring out the best way .
Unsustainable suspence :)
ahhaha