You’re amazing! Really love how you are imparting so much wisdom, giving honest critique, while also showing admiration of another‘s work. Those dinosaurs look incredible!
Many of the videos have a similar theme but I still manage to learn something new from each one. Your channel is quite addictive and it’s stopping me getting any work done 🤣
We generally like to sandwich molds like these between two pieces of particle boards the size of the mold, and then rubber band it. That way, the overall mold gets pressure to close the flashing seams.
I would think the laser manufacturer would be eager to resolve this issue as you are exposing their negligence (in support). Your mold advice is as always practical, and you methods well explained and defended. glad to see a contrast of methods and analysis of your preferred method.
I have found the support from many manufacturers to be poor - to say the least. They are really relying on the skill and expertise of their customers to solve technical problems. Also the manuals that come with the machines are lacking, if there even is one.
It is likely that it might be an issue with the baud rate in the software. LightBurn should somewhere allow you to select the port number and the baud rate (115200 for Two Trees from what I found out). It is likely that you also need to go to Device Manager -> Right click on the device -> Properties -> Port Settings tab and set there the Bits per second to 115200 if it isn't in that setting.
Either that or an updated driver for the laser might need to happen. Win 11 is pretty new so its possible that that the drive isnt optimized properly. The way I handle such problems is to update my OS, Driver, Software that i'll be using in that order. If it still has a problem a reinstall of the driver happens with a clean restart. If it still happens I delve into software settings. If it STILL has a problem I will go to furums for that specific device and see if it is happening elsewhere and what their solutions are. If come across some really wierd issues that only affect certain configurations and it has always had to be solved by the manufacturer of the device releasing a new device driver. Something is going on with the driver. Sometimes just a reinstall of said driver is enough to re-jigger whatever was loose in the OS or software.
@@Joxman2k The Laser device shouldn't have any kind of required driver. It communicates via serial port probably in a text format. It is likely that communicates like the 3d printers (eg. with G-CODE). Of course, after installing any driver it is always good to do a computer restart (not shutdown) in order to force Windows to reload and enumerate all the drivers (shutdown doesn't refresh all drivers as it is used for fast start).
@@ekalyvio They all have required drivers, just the standard driver works for most (Company designs it for the standard) In some cases a modified one might be required. I'm not suggesting it is the case, but that something is going on with driver and the way it is communicating. Going to the manufacture is ALWAYS as step to take for an updated driver. He stated that the same thing was happening with other devices, no matter which port it was on. A restart after every step seems to be needed as you stated for it to enumerate the drivers/configuration properly. Normally that is not the case, but in this case it might be necessary. At the very least it removes possible corruption. As a general rule I wouldn't mess with baud rates, but on the software side it is important to make sure you have the right profile and to double check that they are the same with the ports. If you reinstall everything in a mannered order it eliminates possible causes. If everything seems to be working on the hardware side, then it is either a glitchy driver install, Or a software setting as you suggested. Both 3d printers and this laser are not working so a driver hiccup seems to be the issue. If it were just Lightburn that wasnt working then I would say it is a settings issue. As i said ALL hardware requires drivers. The standard one works in most cases, but even the standard one gets updated as newer devices come onto the market and more problems and fixes get implemented. I would start with the manufacture to see if a newer or even older one is available. Win 11 is a new OS so there will be glitches and updates to be fixed. I think he said he tried it on a win 10 machine too, so an OS update likely isnt the issue. It is possible/probable that a Lightburn update is needed to fix the issue. I would also see the bug issues with that as well. Like you said it could be a setting within Lightburn that is acting up, or a bug in the software that needs to be fixed. I would eliminate all installation issues/misconfigurations first by uninstalling and reinstalling said drivers and software.
@@Joxman2k If by saying driver you mean the driver of the serial port (usb to serial), then I will agree that yes, it requires driver. And since this is a specific chip that is being used for that communication CH340, only that driver should be needed.
@@ekalyvio The os does not connect to just a chip. It is a device and needs to be recognized as such (Wifi adapter, mouse, keyboard,camera, printer, 3d printer etc. It needs to know that in order to apply the right communication. It is making basic communication in the sense that it can retrieve the text string of what the device calls itself, but the data communication stream might not be understood yet. The port seems to work properly as there is no device warning and the OS understands that the device is communicating, however it might not understand the proper protocol it needs to use, hence it needs a driver, usually supplied by the manufacturer, or it is a standard device. Just because it says all is well it doesn't mean that it is. Comunicating just with the chip means nothing until the OS understands what type of protocol it should use. Non-standard chips/devices especially need a driver. The usb (COM ports) drivers are already installed with,or before, the OS. The device type needs a driver for the higher levels of communication and protocols used to and from the GUI layer.
Not every device will appear as a usb drive, unless it has some sort of built in storage that it has been made to give access to via usb. If they could see the printer before and not now I'd recommend uninstalling the driver. It may be interfering with other usb devices.
There once was a world where bees-wax had no room and clay molds used to be the standard, but than the master enlightend us. Thank you very much for another long awaited Robert Talone Original , - well almost ...
With your computer issues, I've had similar problems with a windows 10 system acknowledging that something is plugged into a USB port, but not being able to use the actual device. I went rounds with support for both the device and my computer and neither could figure out the issue. It turned out to be something so simple no-one thought to check (myself included). I had a windows update that needed to be done. After that was completed everything went smoothly
On that mold, I'm willing to bet he took Eric Streble's advise and was using a syringe to get the resin into the mold......and also why he had all of those small vent holes........I have molds made for model train parts that have the small vent holes and also us a syringe with good results.
Hey, I use a smooth cast 321 which has a 9 minute work time, the resin rises out of the vents pretty quickly, I don’t use a syringe. I learned mold making from a sculptor named Doug Watson on a forum
I was able to pour your molds with a roughly similar working time. I played around with syringes early on but I found them tedious to fill and hard to clean. Better to just design a funnel and sprue into the mold. So much simpler.
Have you tried a manual install of the drivers? Right click on the laser on the device manager, update drivers, browse my computer for driver software and set the folder where the driver is. If its one of those chinese lasers, they usually work with an arduino nano clone so looking for getting arduino nano clone working on windows 11 may help. As a side note chinese lasers offer no protection at all and that looks like an open laser so I would pick up some good protection glasses for that laser light frequency and be carefull not to have anything that can burn in the area
Hello, ive never used lightburn but it seems like the com port is changing when you switch usb ports in windows. i will check to see if lightburn has a settings menu where you can either 1. select a specific com port or 2. manually fix the com port in device manager to the com port lightburn wants. we will skin this cat one way or another
I make the type of mold where the vents are uncut, for pieces that are thin and small, in addition to using a syringe to inject the resin, since I have tried to make the funnel bigger but since the thickness of the piece is so small the resin takes a long time to come out and then not to completely fill the mold, with the vents not cut, I prevent a mess when applying the pressure of the syringe. But I admit that thanks to your teachings I prefer a cut mold a thousand times over having difficulties with plasticine in a two-part mold hahaha
I'm liking and commenting because my algorithm hasn't shown me any of your videos in over 2 months!!! Arg!!! I miss you man!!! Thank goodness I subscribe, that's where I found you! Love your content man! Oh yeah, I'll share too!!!
The resin is cheaper than the time it takes to completely dry the mold. For small things I just guesstimate. Four large castings I sneak up on it by making several pours. I hate getting water anywhere near my mold because even a tiny amount causes urethane resin to foam.
Robert, Hard to diagnose an issue via youtube but usb ports have power controls and sleep settings on them. If the device is going away after a short amount of time it is possible that Windows is turning off the port to save power. This is especially likely if you are using a laptop. You can go into Device Manager and disable the power management controls by accessing the Universal Serial Bus controllers. (Probably the last device in device manager. Power Management is the last tab. Just uncheck the Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power box.
I wouldn't expect to see the engraver or printer in the file manager. Just because they're USB, it doesn't mean that they look like drives to the OS. Beyond that, I think you need to reach out to the manufacturer and get their support. The driver may not be Win11 compatible, or something else is going on but it's on them to help you make it work.
I just love your videos! I love the way you take the time to explain each step of the process. I´m now working on a project and thinking of doing it the way you say, one mold cut instead of two pieces of mold. I would like it if you could give me some advice, the shape is kind of difficult and there are some parts I´m scared will come out with a lot of bubbles. sadly I cannot post pictures in comments so you can see the shape of it. I love your channel, just found you a few days ago. keep it up, best regards from Colombia.
I wonder if the liquid coming off the molds is silicone thinner? I used to use too much and the molds wept like that. Those molds are exactly how I do mine. Your information on equal pressure across the mold has saved me a ton of work on removing flash. Thanks for your great videos.
I was concerned when I saw that but the molds cast the resin no problems. i’ve been making silicone molds for 30 years and they still do weird things to me. I am expecting more people to rise to your defense. There are a lot of one-piece cut-mold haters out there!
@@RobertTolone It is definitely a lot of work to do the two part molds. The worst experience I had was with a cured urethane that would melt other plastic when left in contact for a period of time.
Wow that sounds so frustrating. I'm sorry to hear that, however I found the video entertaining and hope that the answer finds you and you finally get to play with your lazar.
in device manager, try clicking the "View" tab, then click "show hidden devices." perhaps that may help. 14:40 also, you can use the troubleshooter in the control panel>devices and printers, click "add a device," and then you can troubleshoot by clicking "my device is not shown."
Hi again So as I mentioned last time you have to make sure the baud rate is the same or it wont see it because they cant talk to each other, So firts go to the device manager and right click on that driver port/then go to properties then port settings /you looking for something that says "bits per sec" it should be a number like 9600 it has a drop down so you can set it but leave it at 9600 for now. Now go into light burn go to edit/device settings/ and on the bottom right you should see something called baud rate it also has a drop down just set it to the same number you found in the port settings 9600 is a good ground dont go higher,,,any other issues drop me a line I be happy to help out
I have an idea to try casting with Silver Art Clay which can be turned to real hallmarkable .999 silver with a blowtorch (small pieces). Id need a fair bit of kit and $$. As you seem adept at mold making, is it something you could try first for me? Perhaps using a rubber like 3D printing resin for the mold?
i have a silly idea, you made not so long ago 2 part mold of a locomotive model body. and i had a silly thought about making internal mold part out of a different material eliminating posibility of silicone to stick to it. there is that reusable waxy rubber like material you have to heat up to make it runny and pour into position , or only slightly warm it up and use it as clay-like mold material i am not sure about how accurate it would be at capturing surface details, but it would work for internal part , well given the temperature be low enough to not disturb the plastic shell of a train
It is an interesting idea. I have never used such a method but it’s possible that it could work in the right situation. Fun experiment if nothing else.
Your way of venting might be working perfectly - well, they do, as you demonstrated so many times - with the pressure workflow, but without it, would just introduce those wicked bubbles. No pressure pot = vents going straight into the pour funnel is a big no-no.
I fully admit that I depend on my pressure pots. But that is mostly to eliminate the foaming of old resin contaminated by water vapor. The real secret is to vent the mold properly so that the rising resin pushes out all of the air. No amount of pressure will prevent bubbles from trapping in a poorly vented mold.
I think I see the problem with your engraver. LightBurn is looking for a USB device. The engraver, although connected via USB, is set up as a virtual serial port located at COM4 (seen in the device manager screenshot). This was probably done to maintain compatibility with ancient software/hardware that predates USB (you'd be surprised at how much is out there still being used for production). So you would need to look for a serial port connected device in LightBurn (if it supports that), or maybe there is some way to switch the engraver from a virtual serial port connection to a pure USB one (I'm completely unfamiliar with both that software and hardware, so I wouldn't know).
You see them pretty much everywhere on RUclips. They are the most popular kind of mold to make. It involves building a box around your model than using clay to sculpt a parting line to divide the resulting mold in half. Once you have a clay dam build you pour rubber on that side of the model. Let the rubber cure then turn the mold over and peel out the clay. This leaves the model half buried in silicone rubber. Put a mold release on that silicone surface and pour the other half of the mold. Sometimes people get really elaborate and make multi-part molds using this process.
@@RobertTolone Thanks, never seen that before, I've worked at various prop companies and watched all sorts of mould making processes even though that isn't what I do personally and never seen that method and couldn't easily find any videos showing it.
This driver is having several issues with windows 11 unless it was upgraded from 10 and the driver was already installed. Either move to Windows 10 or install windows 10 install the driver then upgrade. Also you can test the machine with windows 10 machine to ensure that it is working properly before getting into this downgrade upgrade process which is not also guaranteed to work.
@@RobertTolone first of all, you are taking the drivers from the official website? (Sorry, but RUclips erase all the comments with links) If your answer is NO, take it from the web. If is YES, the driver that you installed from the folder "TS2 Folder→TS2-TF card information→TS2 TS card information (2022-07-09)→07-Port Driver makes a folder in the root of the local drive c:. In these folder you have the .CAT and .INF files, who is the driver of the device. I supposed that you are configuring the port device in the LaserGRBL program as are indicated in the manual (page 24). You need to configure the port number and the baudrate. The baudrate is the speed of data comunications, and you can see it by clicking with right button in the USB SERIAL CH340 device in the device manager and selecting properties. In the window that appears, in one of the tab's you have a field named "baudrate" or "baudrate speed" or speed with a number, in theory 115200, but, can be other number, generally inferior. If the baudrate of the device aren't 115200, you need to configure the software with the speed indicated in the driver. Aa Ok, i think that these answer not been erased. 😅😅
For your PC, and you saying it not recognising USB devices, it sounds like either your USB drivers themselves are not ruined, or there's damage to the USB chips themselves on the motherboard, or potentially a bios issue, but as you've not mentioned that, it's highly unlikely. The laziest method to fix drivers is to reinstall windows 11 again, using the Reset This PC option in the start menu (just type it in after pressing windows and it'll list the link to it) and following the insturctions. You may loose some installed programs as a results and need to reinstall them. Just make sure the data you need is saved in a safe location so the OS reset won't bother it. It takes more time to type out how to reinstall USB drivers fully than it does to reset most pc's like that lol xD After extracting all the files inside that zipped folder with the drivers in to a folder, selecting the installer, and choosing Run As Administrator, does that not let you install them? Other than that, when you have that com port up on the screen like that, open it up and manually change the driver (cick thru till you find the have disk optioon then browse to the location where you've extracted that zipped folder which had the drivers in that didn't load using that software.. ) Great video as always, thanks for sharing the messes so I don't have to make them too! xD
So if he really likes the 2 part molds and doesn't want to move away from that technique, he should put more work into making cradles for more even pressure?
I'd blame Windows 11. I don't use Win 11 yet, but have you tried running the application in Windows 10 compatibility mode (assuming that's an option for Win11)?
Hi all! I'm wondering if anyone can help me? I'm hoping to brush silicone over part of a model, once it cures, am I able to pour new silicone on top of that, and will it adhere to the cured silicone, causing the two to bond entirely? Thanks! :D
I use that method frequently in my videos. I t should work fine for you but make a small test to see if the layers of whatever resin you are using will bond together properly.
Is a "clay-up mold" referring to the material of the sculpture that was cast? Or is it what the molds were meant to cast (i.e. could you fill the molds with clay and cast the sculpt that way)? This is a really helpful video because I'm stuck doing two-part molds since I don't have the space for some of the other types of casting.
Ok Bob here they come…. First, I would like to see make one piece molds for all the Jurassic Animals sculptures so that we can compare the one piece mold to the two piece molds sent into you. Also we can compare how the Jurassic Animals compare using one piece molds to two piece molds. Secondly, I think the laser you got for free was way over priced and surely your time is worth more doing what you do best than wasting it on a cockamamie laser thing. That’s my opinion Bob. Your friend, Richard
Good luck with the laser cutter. I hope you live and be well when that time comes! Why would a company send a product to a RUclipsr with all those problems. It must have come from China. 90% of their products a junk. If they were looking for a positive review you think they would have gone all out to make sure it would work flawlessly when you plugged and play it. Hey Americans if you make a similar product send one to Bob.
what did the vendor say about the bad driver install? it isn't like the old days with a 16 or 24 pin interface and you spend a 7 months writing the stupid thing. It is called a Universal Serial Bus for a reason.
It's clear the mold part followed the "stagger" of the feet. I think boards on each side of the mold with rubber band pressure should have been adequate. I think you could make some better molds - I'd love to see you make your own style mold from the dinosaurs you cast. Would be informative.
When it comes to dinosaurs, I wouldn't say accurate or realistic since all the scientists have had to work with were bones, but they have come up with some interesting theories of late. Such as them being covered in feathers. That sounds ridiculous to me, but then I've never seen a real dinosaur. Makes me think of the Final Fantasy game series and specifically chocobos. Think of them as giant chickens. As for the laser, is it too late to convince you to try Linux? Maybe a Raspberry Pi sitting around unused?
There is a lot of anatomy that does need to be accounted for, muscle attachment points on the bones, posture from trackways, scaly fossilized skin impressions. There is more unknown but it’s not anything goes. And yeah my sculpts are far from perfect
@@Kayakasaurus Don't get me wrong, I wasn't denigrating your work. It's an excellent piece of art. And sure, a lot of anatomy does carry over between animals that are alive now, but dinosaurs have been dead for millions of years and we have no clue if they were even remotely like us. As a point of interest, look at your skin under a microscope and you'll see ridges and scale-like patterns all over, which would be more pronounced should you become dehydrated and were you to fall in a wetland might leave an impression which looks scaly, as would say a bird. That's not to say the detail work on your sculpture is in any way bad, just don't think of it as accurate or realistic absent a time machine. Think of it as an educated guess that might be correct.
Every “accurate” reconstruction of a dinosaur is at best an interpretation of the current state of knowledge about that dinosaur. What I meant is that the sculpts reflect that ethic. They are not cartoon or pop culture images of dinosaurs. All of my dinosaur sculpts are toy-like cartoons with no effort made to reflect the actual proportions, anatomy or integument.
Not seeing the cutter or printer as a storage device is a behaviour that is to be expected. (Unless stated otherwise in the manual of the cutter or printer). What you see in your Windows Explorer are first and foremost storage devices (harddrives, thumb drives, network shares, et al). The USB ports on these cutters and printers are (normally) only serial communication connections, that need a driver for the USB-communication-chip inside these devices and some software to do the communication. So, if you see a serial device in your device manager in Windows, when plugging in your cutter or printer, Windows is able to identify the USB-communication-chip and find and load the appropriate driver. That means it is very likely that it is a setup issue with the software that schould communicate with the cutter or printer. But ... well ... perhaps I'm completely wrong ;) Nevertheless, if you would like to have some hands-on help, we could do a remote session. Send me a DM, or whatever's possible here, if you are interested.
The printers and laser aren't showing up like USB drives because the computer thinks they're a different kind of device: specifically a modem. That's what the 'USB-SERIAL' means, and is normal for a lot of external devices. A Serial connection lets the computer talk to the external device using text, making it easier to write the programs at both ends of the connection. I'm afraid I don't have any idea why the programs you're using can't find the correct Serial interface (which will be a COM port.. COM6 in the video above), but can at least narrow the range of things that seem to be going wrong. USB Serial connections don't show up as anything but a COM port, and that seems to be working on your computer. You might want to check the computer's security options to make sure programs are allowed to talk to the COM port. Windows security policy has an unfortunate "I'm going to get in your way so you know I'm 'protecting' you" performance art side.
You can manually install the driver in device manager. Just go to properties and point it to the folder. I would suggest watching a RUclips video if you are not familiar. Again, try a USB addon board. It may not be compatible with USB 3.0. get a USB 2.0 card.
Actually usb3.0 may be on 2010 computers but in any case usb 3.0is compatible with usb2.0 and in this machines it will go to the usb2.0 protocol most of the tine even if the port itself is usb3.0
Hello Mr Talone, bashing someone elses technique while presenting that one single approach for miniatures is easy. Yes, your approach will work better for those dinosaurs, but hopefully you do know that there are countless applications where gravity fed, silicon cut-up molds WONT be the right choice. You do a really good job of presenting your - naturally - limited skillset, but maybe keep it humble when criticising others.
Delete the inf files, uninstall the devices and then try again. I don't have experience with Windows 11, but this has been an ongoing problem since Windows 95. I literally cannot tell you how many hours of my life were lost doing this to thousands of machines (i am an IT guy professionally and have been for 25 years). You MUST delete the inf files from the windows directory or it won't work. If you know the names of the drivers, delete them from the windows directory as well. This is not a "fix all" though. It should be for the windows 10 machine that used to work and now doesn't. But not the Windows 11 machine, because unless you know that is a known working configuration, you cannot rule out that it will never work because of incompatibilities. From what I understand, Windows 11 is a major change. This is why you will almost never see "the latest" in the corp world where I have spent the majority of my career. Even if the computer comes with the latest OS, you image it with an older and known compatible system image. Plus, it is infinitely more complex the more configurations you have in your organization. You can easily end up with scores of images, each with minor differences that can wreak all kinds of issues. I have seen some CRAZY incompatibilities.
pm me on instagram again. i can put you in touch with somebody i'm sure. we have a makers channel in slack also, i'll ask for advice there. i sent you a link with a windows 11 specific version of said driver also, btw, through insta. feel free to ping me pretty much 24/7, i live, breathe, and sleep 3d.
In their defense, that is exactly what my molds looked like during my pre-Tolone time period.
😂 Great video!
Love how well you can praise and roast those molds at the same time! 🤣🤣
Thanks!
You’re amazing! Really love how you are imparting so much wisdom, giving honest critique, while also showing admiration of another‘s work. Those dinosaurs look incredible!
I love Kayakasaurus! So cool to see this collab!
😁
Many of the videos have a similar theme but I still manage to learn something new from each one. Your channel is quite addictive and it’s stopping me getting any work done 🤣
lovely moulds - And far less frustrating than a three part mould with a separate section between the legs!
We generally like to sandwich molds like these between two pieces of particle boards the size of the mold, and then rubber band it. That way, the overall mold gets pressure to close the flashing seams.
I would think the laser manufacturer would be eager to resolve this issue as you are exposing their negligence (in support).
Your mold advice is as always practical, and you methods well explained and defended.
glad to see a contrast of methods and analysis of your preferred method.
I have found the support from many manufacturers to be poor - to say the least. They are really relying on the skill and expertise of their customers to solve technical problems. Also the manuals that come with the machines are lacking, if there even is one.
10:39 very helpful diagram of proper method for molding and demolding.
I was gonna shout at the screen, "build a cradle, Robert!" and then you kinda did, hah! Great video as always.
It is likely that it might be an issue with the baud rate in the software. LightBurn should somewhere allow you to select the port number and the baud rate (115200 for Two Trees from what I found out). It is likely that you also need to go to Device Manager -> Right click on the device -> Properties -> Port Settings tab and set there the Bits per second to 115200 if it isn't in that setting.
Either that or an updated driver for the laser might need to happen. Win 11 is pretty new so its possible that that the drive isnt optimized properly.
The way I handle such problems is to update my OS, Driver, Software that i'll be using in that order. If it still has a problem a reinstall of the driver happens with a clean restart. If it still happens I delve into software settings. If it STILL has a problem I will go to furums for that specific device and see if it is happening elsewhere and what their solutions are.
If come across some really wierd issues that only affect certain configurations and it has always had to be solved by the manufacturer of the device releasing a new device driver.
Something is going on with the driver. Sometimes just a reinstall of said driver is enough to re-jigger whatever was loose in the OS or software.
@@Joxman2k The Laser device shouldn't have any kind of required driver. It communicates via serial port probably in a text format. It is likely that communicates like the 3d printers (eg. with G-CODE).
Of course, after installing any driver it is always good to do a computer restart (not shutdown) in order to force Windows to reload and enumerate all the drivers (shutdown doesn't refresh all drivers as it is used for fast start).
@@ekalyvio They all have required drivers, just the standard driver works for most (Company designs it for the standard) In some cases a modified one might be required. I'm not suggesting it is the case, but that something is going on with driver and the way it is communicating. Going to the manufacture is ALWAYS as step to take for an updated driver. He stated that the same thing was happening with other devices, no matter which port it was on. A restart after every step seems to be needed as you stated for it to enumerate the drivers/configuration properly. Normally that is not the case, but in this case it might be necessary. At the very least it removes possible corruption. As a general rule I wouldn't mess with baud rates, but on the software side it is important to make sure you have the right profile and to double check that they are the same with the ports.
If you reinstall everything in a mannered order it eliminates possible causes. If everything seems to be working on the hardware side, then it is either a glitchy driver install, Or a software setting as you suggested. Both 3d printers and this laser are not working so a driver hiccup seems to be the issue. If it were just Lightburn that wasnt working then I would say it is a settings issue.
As i said ALL hardware requires drivers. The standard one works in most cases, but even the standard one gets updated as newer devices come onto the market and more problems and fixes get implemented. I would start with the manufacture to see if a newer or even older one is available. Win 11 is a new OS so there will be glitches and updates to be fixed. I think he said he tried it on a win 10 machine too, so an OS update likely isnt the issue. It is possible/probable that a Lightburn update is needed to fix the issue. I would also see the bug issues with that as well. Like you said it could be a setting within Lightburn that is acting up, or a bug in the software that needs to be fixed.
I would eliminate all installation issues/misconfigurations first by uninstalling and reinstalling said drivers and software.
@@Joxman2k If by saying driver you mean the driver of the serial port (usb to serial), then I will agree that yes, it requires driver. And since this is a specific chip that is being used for that communication CH340, only that driver should be needed.
@@ekalyvio The os does not connect to just a chip. It is a device and needs to be recognized as such (Wifi adapter, mouse, keyboard,camera, printer, 3d printer etc. It needs to know that in order to apply the right communication. It is making basic communication in the sense that it can retrieve the text string of what the device calls itself, but the data communication stream might not be understood yet. The port seems to work properly as there is no device warning and the OS understands that the device is communicating, however it might not understand the proper protocol it needs to use, hence it needs a driver, usually supplied by the manufacturer, or it is a standard device. Just because it says all is well it doesn't mean that it is.
Comunicating just with the chip means nothing until the OS understands what type of protocol it should use. Non-standard chips/devices especially need a driver. The usb (COM ports) drivers are already installed with,or before, the OS. The device type needs a driver for the higher levels of communication and protocols used to and from the GUI layer.
Very cool dinosaur. Great texture! You got it all!
Not every device will appear as a usb drive, unless it has some sort of built in storage that it has been made to give access to via usb. If they could see the printer before and not now I'd recommend uninstalling the driver. It may be interfering with other usb devices.
There once was a world where bees-wax had no room and clay molds used to be the standard, but than the master enlightend us. Thank you very much for another long awaited Robert Talone Original , - well almost ...
Fear not, more are on the way… 😊
Such valuable information. Inspired to improve my mold designs with your expertise. Thanks for sharing
With your computer issues, I've had similar problems with a windows 10 system acknowledging that something is plugged into a USB port, but not being able to use the actual device. I went rounds with support for both the device and my computer and neither could figure out the issue.
It turned out to be something so simple no-one thought to check (myself included). I had a windows update that needed to be done. After that was completed everything went smoothly
Ok, I’ll check that it’s up to date. Thanks!
Great video as always ... thanks for sharing.
On that mold, I'm willing to bet he took Eric Streble's advise and was using a syringe to get the resin into the mold......and also why he had all of those small vent holes........I have molds made for model train parts that have the small vent holes and also us a syringe with good results.
Hey, I use a smooth cast 321 which has a 9 minute work time, the resin rises out of the vents pretty quickly, I don’t use a syringe. I learned mold making from a sculptor named Doug Watson on a forum
I was able to pour your molds with a roughly similar working time. I played around with syringes early on but I found them tedious to fill and hard to clean. Better to just design a funnel and sprue into the mold. So much simpler.
Super interesting to see the different mold type!
Thank you for you videos tried today to cast a modelhorse i sculpted in a cutmold 😊😁
This guy reminds me of my grandpa, my grandfather made models, and did alot of wood work though
Have you tried a manual install of the drivers? Right click on the laser on the device manager, update drivers, browse my computer for driver software and set the folder where the driver is.
If its one of those chinese lasers, they usually work with an arduino nano clone so looking for getting arduino nano clone working on windows 11 may help.
As a side note chinese lasers offer no protection at all and that looks like an open laser so I would pick up some good protection glasses for that laser light frequency and be carefull not to have anything that can burn in the area
This is the answer.
Hello, ive never used lightburn but it seems like the com port is changing when you switch usb ports in windows. i will check to see if lightburn has a settings menu where you can either 1. select a specific com port or 2. manually fix the com port in device manager to the com port lightburn wants. we will skin this cat one way or another
also i just noticed at 14.48 it shows it is disconnected, let me know if you need any extra help and id be happy to assist you
you can use this to assign a com port then in lightburn emter that com port. hope this works for you
I make the type of mold where the vents are uncut, for pieces that are thin and small, in addition to using a syringe to inject the resin, since I have tried to make the funnel bigger but since the thickness of the piece is so small the resin takes a long time to come out and then not to completely fill the mold, with the vents not cut, I prevent a mess when applying the pressure of the syringe. But I admit that thanks to your teachings I prefer a cut mold a thousand times over having difficulties with plasticine in a two-part mold hahaha
I'm liking and commenting because my algorithm hasn't shown me any of your videos in over 2 months!!! Arg!!! I miss you man!!! Thank goodness I subscribe, that's where I found you! Love your content man! Oh yeah, I'll share too!!!
Thanks Tim!
I always do a test pour of water in to see how much resin to use. But then you have to dry it out again. But you don't waist resin.
The resin is cheaper than the time it takes to completely dry the mold. For small things I just guesstimate. Four large castings I sneak up on it by making several pours. I hate getting water anywhere near my mold because even a tiny amount causes urethane resin to foam.
@@RobertTolone
True that. I liked you video about cylinder vs rectangle molds under pressure. I never thought about that.
Robert,
Hard to diagnose an issue via youtube but usb ports have power controls and sleep settings on them. If the device is going away after a short amount of time it is possible that Windows is turning off the port to save power. This is especially likely if you are using a laptop. You can go into Device Manager and disable the power management controls by accessing the Universal Serial Bus controllers. (Probably the last device in device manager. Power Management is the last tab. Just uncheck the Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power box.
So much to learn! Thanks.
I wouldn't expect to see the engraver or printer in the file manager. Just because they're USB, it doesn't mean that they look like drives to the OS. Beyond that, I think you need to reach out to the manufacturer and get their support. The driver may not be Win11 compatible, or something else is going on but it's on them to help you make it work.
I just love your videos! I love the way you take the time to explain each step of the process. I´m now working on a project and thinking of doing it the way you say, one mold cut instead of two pieces of mold. I would like it if you could give me some advice, the shape is kind of difficult and there are some parts I´m scared will come out with a lot of bubbles. sadly I cannot post pictures in comments so you can see the shape of it.
I love your channel, just found you a few days ago.
keep it up, best regards from Colombia.
I wonder if the liquid coming off the molds is silicone thinner? I used to use too much and the molds wept like that. Those molds are exactly how I do mine. Your information on equal pressure across the mold has saved me a ton of work on removing flash. Thanks for your great videos.
Idk why that’s happening, I just use regular silicone from smooth on. The white molds are mold max 14NV
I was concerned when I saw that but the molds cast the resin no problems. i’ve been making silicone molds for 30 years and they still do weird things to me. I am expecting more people to rise to your defense. There are a lot of one-piece cut-mold haters out there!
@@RobertTolone It is definitely a lot of work to do the two part molds. The worst experience I had was with a cured urethane that would melt other plastic when left in contact for a period of time.
On that first mold, why don't you put some rubber bands in the other direction to apply pressure from that direction as well?
Wow that sounds so frustrating. I'm sorry to hear that, however I found the video entertaining and hope that the answer finds you and you finally get to play with your lazar.
in device manager, try clicking the "View" tab, then click "show hidden devices." perhaps that may help. 14:40
also, you can use the troubleshooter in the control panel>devices and printers, click "add a device," and then you can troubleshoot by clicking "my device is not shown."
Even more good things to try! Thanks
also, you could try turning off any firewalls.
@@h7opolo please dont turn off your firewall. it shouldnt be the reason for this error
@@omoikumogakure4534 i didnt suggest that. he can check if firewall is blocking the drivers, and if so, he can add it as an exception.
New casting video! Sweet… Binge watching you make molds is way better than Netflix, HoBo, or any other garbage! For me anyway!
Happy Friday!!
Hi again
So as I mentioned last time you have to make sure the baud rate is the same or it wont see it because they cant talk to each other, So firts go to the device manager and right click on that driver port/then go to properties then port settings /you looking for something that says "bits per sec" it should be a number like 9600 it has a drop down so you can set it but leave it at 9600 for now.
Now go into light burn go to edit/device settings/ and on the bottom right you should see something called baud rate it also has a drop down just set it to the same number you found in the port settings 9600 is a good ground dont go higher,,,any other issues drop me a line I be happy to help out
I will do these things and let you know how it goes. Thanks!
Kayaksaurus is awesome
Thanks you!
Do we have a follow up vid of him kayakasaurus sending you some of his work to make a mold of?
Coming soon…
Very good review. I just have one question: what is flash
I can't wait to see if he sent you a master to cast
He did and it’s really beautiful. Pressure is on me now!
I have an idea to try casting with Silver Art Clay which can be turned to real hallmarkable .999 silver with a blowtorch (small pieces). Id need a fair bit of kit and $$. As you seem adept at mold making, is it something you could try first for me? Perhaps using a rubber like 3D printing resin for the mold?
Are you going to make cut molds of these dinos? It’d be interesting to see the difference, apples to apples
Kayakasaurus also sent me a dinosaur to mold and cast. That video is in the works.
@@RobertTolone thanks!
I was expecting you to make a proper 1 piece cut mold from the cast model
Kayakasaurus sent a beautiful dinosaur sculpt I’ll be molding and casting. Should be fun!
Have you changed your camera setup Robert? The last few videos look duller and less vibrant in colour. Makes me feel like turning up the contrast.
Think it’s more a lighting issue. Agree they don’t look as good… Always room for improvement!
Great video! Admittedly, most of my molds look like this too. Only because I don't know of a better way.
Pretty much everybody makes them using this method. The cut-mold haters have been surprisingly silent (so far) in the comments!
Headless-Elephantosaurus is my favourite dinosaur!
I noticed the nutrition facts on your rubber band jar. is there a particular flavor of rubber band you recommend for jobs like this? Lol!
Strictly vegan organic
@@RobertTolone Noted! Hahah! Thanks for another great video Robert. Keep up the great work!
have you tryed monster modeling clay? whats your thought
i’ve played with it and It’s good stuff. But I’ve been using sculptor wax for so long I prefer it. It’s harder and drier than Monster clay.
i have a silly idea, you made not so long ago 2 part mold of a locomotive model body. and i had a silly thought about making internal mold part out of a different material eliminating posibility of silicone to stick to it. there is that reusable waxy rubber like material you have to heat up to make it runny and pour into position , or only slightly warm it up and use it as clay-like mold material
i am not sure about how accurate it would be at capturing surface details, but it would work for internal part , well given the temperature be low enough to not disturb the plastic shell of a train
It is an interesting idea. I have never used such a method but it’s possible that it could work in the right situation. Fun experiment if nothing else.
I've seen someone make use of the method you're describing with good results. The individual used Gulf Wax as it melts at a low heat.
Just one question testmold wasnt sticky inside why is the huge one a little sticky ?
Hey Robert what are your thoughts on using recycled/melted hdpe plastics for molding?
I have never tried it.
Your way of venting might be working perfectly - well, they do, as you demonstrated so many times - with the pressure workflow, but without it, would just introduce those wicked bubbles. No pressure pot = vents going straight into the pour funnel is a big no-no.
I fully admit that I depend on my pressure pots. But that is mostly to eliminate the foaming of old resin contaminated by water vapor. The real secret is to vent the mold properly so that the rising resin pushes out all of the air. No amount of pressure will prevent bubbles from trapping in a poorly vented mold.
I think I see the problem with your engraver. LightBurn is looking for a USB device. The engraver, although connected via USB, is set up as a virtual serial port located at COM4 (seen in the device manager screenshot). This was probably done to maintain compatibility with ancient software/hardware that predates USB (you'd be surprised at how much is out there still being used for production). So you would need to look for a serial port connected device in LightBurn (if it supports that), or maybe there is some way to switch the engraver from a virtual serial port connection to a pure USB one (I'm completely unfamiliar with both that software and hardware, so I wouldn't know).
Another thing to check. Thanks!
Are there any links to what a "clay-up mold" is and the differences? I've searched but nothing really popped up.
You see them pretty much everywhere on RUclips. They are the most popular kind of mold to make. It involves building a box around your model than using clay to sculpt a parting line to divide the resulting mold in half. Once you have a clay dam build you pour rubber on that side of the model. Let the rubber cure then turn the mold over and peel out the clay. This leaves the model half buried in silicone rubber. Put a mold release on that silicone surface and pour the other half of the mold. Sometimes people get really elaborate and make multi-part molds using this process.
@@RobertTolone Thanks, never seen that before, I've worked at various prop companies and watched all sorts of mould making processes even though that isn't what I do personally and never seen that method and couldn't easily find any videos showing it.
Thanks for the video, very fascinating! I love to see Kayakasaurus get the praise his sculpts deserve.
11:20 thats a shitton of years of experience condensed on so little time there
When you start selling merch, that needs to be on a t-shirt... "Cast resin, not aspersions" 😂
Good Idea! I will add it to my so-far-non-existent merch line!
This driver is having several issues with windows 11 unless it was upgraded from 10 and the driver was already installed.
Either move to Windows 10 or install windows 10 install the driver then upgrade.
Also you can test the machine with windows 10 machine to ensure that it is working properly before getting into this downgrade upgrade process which is not also guaranteed to work.
Please, can you tell me the model of the cnc laser to try to help you?
Two Trees TS2
@@RobertTolone first of all, you are taking the drivers from the official website?
(Sorry, but RUclips erase all the comments with links)
If your answer is NO, take it from the web. If is YES, the driver that you installed from the folder "TS2 Folder→TS2-TF card information→TS2 TS card information (2022-07-09)→07-Port Driver makes a folder in the root of the local drive c:.
In these folder you have the .CAT and .INF files, who is the driver of the device.
I supposed that you are configuring the port device in the LaserGRBL program as are indicated in the manual (page 24).
You need to configure the port number and the baudrate. The baudrate is the speed of data comunications, and you can see it by clicking with right button in the USB SERIAL CH340 device in the device manager and selecting properties. In the window that appears, in one of the tab's you have a field named "baudrate" or "baudrate speed" or speed with a number, in theory 115200, but, can be other number, generally inferior.
If the baudrate of the device aren't 115200, you need to configure the software with the speed indicated in the driver.
Aa
Ok, i think that these answer not been erased. 😅😅
For your PC, and you saying it not recognising USB devices, it sounds like either your USB drivers themselves are not ruined, or there's damage to the USB chips themselves on the motherboard, or potentially a bios issue, but as you've not mentioned that, it's highly unlikely. The laziest method to fix drivers is to reinstall windows 11 again, using the Reset This PC option in the start menu (just type it in after pressing windows and it'll list the link to it) and following the insturctions. You may loose some installed programs as a results and need to reinstall them. Just make sure the data you need is saved in a safe location so the OS reset won't bother it. It takes more time to type out how to reinstall USB drivers fully than it does to reset most pc's like that lol xD
After extracting all the files inside that zipped folder with the drivers in to a folder, selecting the installer, and choosing Run As Administrator, does that not let you install them?
Other than that, when you have that com port up on the screen like that, open it up and manually change the driver (cick thru till you find the have disk optioon then browse to the location where you've extracted that zipped folder which had the drivers in that didn't load using that software.. )
Great video as always, thanks for sharing the messes so I don't have to make them too! xD
So if he really likes the 2 part molds and doesn't want to move away from that technique, he should put more work into making cradles for more even pressure?
That’s what I would do.
I'd blame Windows 11. I don't use Win 11 yet, but have you tried running the application in Windows 10 compatibility mode (assuming that's an option for Win11)?
No, but it doesn’t work on my Widows 10 computer either.
Hi all! I'm wondering if anyone can help me? I'm hoping to brush silicone over part of a model, once it cures, am I able to pour new silicone on top of that, and will it adhere to the cured silicone, causing the two to bond entirely?
Thanks! :D
I use that method frequently in my videos. I t should work fine for you but make a small test to see if the layers of whatever resin you are using will bond together properly.
@@RobertTolone Thanks so much for your answer! Though my question was related to layering silicone as opposed to resin! :D
@@mAcroFaze Sorry, I misspoke. I was talking about rubber in my reply, but it works with resin as well.
@@RobertTolone Thanks for clarifying!! :D
Is a "clay-up mold" referring to the material of the sculpture that was cast? Or is it what the molds were meant to cast (i.e. could you fill the molds with clay and cast the sculpt that way)? This is a really helpful video because I'm stuck doing two-part molds since I don't have the space for some of the other types of casting.
It’s referring to the process of surrounding half of the part in clay before pouring silicone, then removing the clay and pouring the rest
@@Kayakasaurus I also hadn't heard that before, thanks!
@@Kayakasaurus Ahhh that makes sense.
HA, you're definitely not lazy, you're proficient
Ok Bob here they come…. First, I would like to see make one piece molds for all the Jurassic Animals sculptures so that we can compare the one piece mold to the two piece molds sent into you. Also we can compare how the Jurassic Animals compare using one piece molds to two piece molds. Secondly, I think the laser you got for free was way over priced and surely your time is worth more doing what you do best than wasting it on a cockamamie laser thing. That’s my opinion Bob. Your friend, Richard
Kayakasaurus sent me a beautiful dino sculpt to mold and cast. That video is in the works. The laser will be fun when I get it running.
Good luck with the laser cutter. I hope you live and be well when that time comes! Why would a company send a product to a RUclipsr with all those problems. It must have come from China. 90% of their products a junk. If they were looking for a positive review you think they would have gone all out to make sure it would work flawlessly when you plugged and play it. Hey Americans if you make a similar product send one to Bob.
what did the vendor say about the bad driver install? it isn't like the old days with a 16 or 24 pin interface and you spend a 7 months writing the stupid thing. It is called a Universal Serial Bus for a reason.
It's clear the mold part followed the "stagger" of the feet. I think boards on each side of the mold with rubber band pressure should have been adequate.
I think you could make some better molds - I'd love to see you make your own style mold from the dinosaurs you cast. Would be informative.
There are 90 degree keys on those parallel parting lines too
Kayakasaurus sent me a beautiful dino to mold and cast. Should be fun!
happy to be first here and happy to see you again!
When it comes to dinosaurs, I wouldn't say accurate or realistic since all the scientists have had to work with were bones, but they have come up with some interesting theories of late. Such as them being covered in feathers. That sounds ridiculous to me, but then I've never seen a real dinosaur. Makes me think of the Final Fantasy game series and specifically chocobos. Think of them as giant chickens. As for the laser, is it too late to convince you to try Linux? Maybe a Raspberry Pi sitting around unused?
There is a lot of anatomy that does need to be accounted for, muscle attachment points on the bones, posture from trackways, scaly fossilized skin impressions. There is more unknown but it’s not anything goes. And yeah my sculpts are far from perfect
@@Kayakasaurus Don't get me wrong, I wasn't denigrating your work. It's an excellent piece of art. And sure, a lot of anatomy does carry over between animals that are alive now, but dinosaurs have been dead for millions of years and we have no clue if they were even remotely like us. As a point of interest, look at your skin under a microscope and you'll see ridges and scale-like patterns all over, which would be more pronounced should you become dehydrated and were you to fall in a wetland might leave an impression which looks scaly, as would say a bird. That's not to say the detail work on your sculpture is in any way bad, just don't think of it as accurate or realistic absent a time machine. Think of it as an educated guess that might be correct.
Every “accurate” reconstruction of a dinosaur is at best an interpretation of the current state of knowledge about that dinosaur. What I meant is that the sculpts reflect that ethic. They are not cartoon or pop culture images of dinosaurs. All of my dinosaur sculpts are toy-like cartoons with no effort made to reflect the actual proportions, anatomy or integument.
Not seeing the cutter or printer as a storage device is a behaviour that is to be expected. (Unless stated otherwise in the manual of the cutter or printer). What you see in your Windows Explorer are first and foremost storage devices (harddrives, thumb drives, network shares, et al). The USB ports on these cutters and printers are (normally) only serial communication connections, that need a driver for the USB-communication-chip inside these devices and some software to do the communication. So, if you see a serial device in your device manager in Windows, when plugging in your cutter or printer, Windows is able to identify the USB-communication-chip and find and load the appropriate driver. That means it is very likely that it is a setup issue with the software that schould communicate with the cutter or printer.
But ... well ... perhaps I'm completely wrong ;)
Nevertheless, if you would like to have some hands-on help, we could do a remote session. Send me a DM, or whatever's possible here, if you are interested.
The printers and laser aren't showing up like USB drives because the computer thinks they're a different kind of device: specifically a modem. That's what the 'USB-SERIAL' means, and is normal for a lot of external devices. A Serial connection lets the computer talk to the external device using text, making it easier to write the programs at both ends of the connection.
I'm afraid I don't have any idea why the programs you're using can't find the correct Serial interface (which will be a COM port.. COM6 in the video above), but can at least narrow the range of things that seem to be going wrong. USB Serial connections don't show up as anything but a COM port, and that seems to be working on your computer.
You might want to check the computer's security options to make sure programs are allowed to talk to the COM port. Windows security policy has an unfortunate "I'm going to get in your way so you know I'm 'protecting' you" performance art side.
One more thing to check! Thanks.
You can manually install the driver in device manager. Just go to properties and point it to the folder. I would suggest watching a RUclips video if you are not familiar.
Again, try a USB addon board. It may not be compatible with USB 3.0. get a USB 2.0 card.
My old Win 10 computer is from 2010. Pretty sure they’re not USB 3.0!
Actually usb3.0 may be on 2010 computers but in any case usb 3.0is compatible with usb2.0 and in this machines it will go to the usb2.0 protocol most of the tine even if the port itself is usb3.0
@@RobertTolone it's very possible. It'll have blue substrate and may have the SS ( superspeed ) logo on it.
@@bobbiac I’ll check it, thanks!
@@RobertTolone sent you an email. Looks like it's using a serial to USB adapter. Make sure the COM port settings are correct.. I think?
🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣😂🤣😂 Epic
Hello Mr Talone, bashing someone elses technique while presenting that one single approach for miniatures is easy. Yes, your approach will work better for those dinosaurs, but hopefully you do know that there are countless applications where gravity fed, silicon cut-up molds WONT be the right choice. You do a really good job of presenting your - naturally - limited skillset, but maybe keep it humble when criticising others.
box the mold
then you can crush it in a clamp
squish molds for the win
injection molding for the win
fast acid dip to get rid of surface thin slices
why do you need drivers, if the machine can print stand-alone
He is being so dramatic... The molds were fine.
Delete the inf files, uninstall the devices and then try again. I don't have experience with Windows 11, but this has been an ongoing problem since Windows 95. I literally cannot tell you how many hours of my life were lost doing this to thousands of machines (i am an IT guy professionally and have been for 25 years). You MUST delete the inf files from the windows directory or it won't work. If you know the names of the drivers, delete them from the windows directory as well.
This is not a "fix all" though. It should be for the windows 10 machine that used to work and now doesn't. But not the Windows 11 machine, because unless you know that is a known working configuration, you cannot rule out that it will never work because of incompatibilities.
From what I understand, Windows 11 is a major change. This is why you will almost never see "the latest" in the corp world where I have spent the majority of my career. Even if the computer comes with the latest OS, you image it with an older and known compatible system image. Plus, it is infinitely more complex the more configurations you have in your organization. You can easily end up with scores of images, each with minor differences that can wreak all kinds of issues. I have seen some CRAZY incompatibilities.
Maybe I’ll just get a wood burning kit instead!
pm me on instagram again. i can put you in touch with somebody i'm sure. we have a makers channel in slack also, i'll ask for advice there. i sent you a link with a windows 11 specific version of said driver also, btw, through insta. feel free to ping me pretty much 24/7, i live, breathe, and sleep 3d.
I was going to and then I thought I had it fixed. Definitely will pm you. Thanks!