Cheap & Easy Wattle & Duab Modelling Techniques
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
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In this terrain techniques tutorial, we go through 3 really easy and cheap ways of replicating the wattle and duab texturing for your historical European, medieval and other period/places terrain.
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So, what are your go to techniques for duab'ing it up?!
TheTerrainTutor, I make the foam board outline, put down stirring stick wood or basswood (balsa is too soft I think) use the wire brush. I base coat and paint the wood. Then I use grout from a Home Improvemt store (it gives a great texture, color, and adds some weight, don't even have to paint it. If I want a window with glass I'll put a small piece of foam behind and glue the outside of the windows with basswood. I use watereffects on the window to get a gloss. Then I cut up pieces of a rag and layer it to get the thatch roof. I coat it in PVA and then I paint over it and dry brush + add a wash.
I've used artists watercolor paper, it's thick like the sandpaper but when it's painted and washed the texture is more like your filler method.
_Muad'Duab_
lemme just waddle in with a neat wattle techniquie I saw. Its the exact same as what you showed Mel, only you can skip cutting strips of balsa-wood by using metal twist ties.
How about just cereal box card board with little skewers? Would be interesting to have a go with that. Great video BTW.
I like that you added text when you name materials, really informative!
Could we also get a video with these painted up?
Slowly improving, little by little mate ;-)
Yep, but it'll be in the let's make's rather than a technical tutorial mate
Yup, it keeps the rookies up to speed with the vets.
Yes, the text is very helpful.
Mel this video made my day! The use of sandpaper was from my Medieval tower project I submitted and was in the #1 Terrianiac Showcase.
Awesome sauce mate, thanks for sharing the technique with the community
Tip. Next time cut the backside of the sandpaper. You get much cleaner cuts (specially with coarse grit) and your blade lasts a bit longer. Just score and break if it's the very coarse kind.
Top tip, thanks!
The filler looks real! I've actually made miniature wattle hurdles with cocktail sticks and twine covered with pva, it looks like its wood when it drys. They use the wattle hurdles in Scotland made with hazel ir willow as shelter or windbreaks for the animals to stand behind in winter.
I've been meaning to try using a woven grass placemat for the wattle on buildings like this. I think that by choosing your weave correctly you can just cut out pieces and glue them in, then lay in the spackle or other texture compound over the top. You should end up with a pretty good looking wattle and daub without quite as much work as hand weaving bits.
If you can find a fine enough weave, that would be wicked mate!
light joint compound or regular joint compound goes a long long way
in the states I get this stuff called ProForm Light Joint Compound in 50lb bags that I put in 5gallon buckets for only $14.99USA you can water it down or thicken it or whatever, add pigments and paint for colors. good stuff, you can find it around the drywall section most places
Lol I'm glad you took a moment to grab your bits off camera. Nice tutorial btw.
For smaller scales like 10mm or 15mm I got excellent results mixing baking soda with white acrylic paint. It comes out looking like stucco. I mixed it 50/50 by volume but you can play with different ratios for other results. BONUS: Add a bit of PVA to the mix and stipple it onto a very smooth surface, like plastic card. When it dries you can pull it off and you'll have a sheet of the stuff that you can cut to size with scissors.
I like that peeling idea mate!
Done REAL wattle and daub on reall houses... goddess I wish it had been that easy :D.
How long did it take?
First time was mostly for show, being at a renaissance festival, but the next two, with three other people, and slightly different materials (no animal droppings), took about 2 days per wall. The hardest part was the weaving of smaller branches. We decided on creeper vines, as they are ABUNDANT in the area, and we could do multiple layers of cross-wattle in a shorter period of time.
Gotta love the old crafts
For daub I use PVA glue and bicarb, gives a fine grainy finish
Around 11:00 Mel started showing his wattle construction using balsa wood and cocktail sticks. If anyone is having trouble cleanly bending the balsa to the desired shape, consider this balsa RC airplane building technique. Soak the balsa in ammonia for a couple days and it becomes very flexible. When it dries it returns to being very firm, but retains the bent shape.
I made troughs out of PVC plastic pipe with PVC end caps to contain the ammonia liquid and vapors while it soaks the balsa.
Old RCers don't fade away... They just go to a different part of the hobby shop.
I used to laminate balsa using this technique for making curved and eliptical wingtips, tail planes, rudders and elevators. I notice some of the exposed timber on the Cotswold houses is curved, so this technique can be used to make custom curved timbers on the model houses. I found it easier to bend than saw them to shape. The bent laminated pieces are much stronger too. Laminate them using wood glue or PVA after you wipe off the excess ammonia.
Actually, you can do it with just water and you only need to saturate it, so a couple of seconds before pinning it to a bend and letting it dry that way, holds the shape just fine. I show the technique in the balsa back to basics vid if you want to see it matey
Thank you so much, Mel. I'll take a look at your water only technique.
For the airplanes I scratch built from plans I wonder if the wood for the laminations was a bit thick. I think I was using 1/8" or 3/32" thick balsa strips to form laminations and maybe the strips were just a little too thick to handle the required curves. I also used the ammonia technique on 1/4" and 3/8" square spruce to allow bending of fuselage parts, and for spruce it really needed softening more than the balsa.
All great results Mel, hadn't thought about the wire brush on balsa, thank you
Rick B aka Plastic butcher
it's a nice technique mate, you'll like it!
TheTerrainTutor definitely going to try it , thank you Mel
Rick B aka Plastic butcher
Nice one Mel will try this on some middle earth builds. Guessing you’ll end this series with a massive fortress build lol.
Hill fort ;-)
Odd numbers of uprights for your wattle, Brother. That makes the tension that holds them in place. 5, 7,9,11, 13, etc.
Makes a nice effect for bamboo huts for a WW2 Pacific theater terrain too.
Handy to know, thanks mate
I like to use baking soda. A layer of water / PVA and then soda over it. This process can be repeated as often as you like.
When you're making wattle and daub houses it's worth looking at surviving historic houses. Measurement isn't necessarily as important as you might think. Since all parts of the houses were made by hand, they were very uneven. Just something to bear in mind.
Ana Polancsak on the Gardens of Hecate blog made some REALLY nice W&D houses using DAS clay.
yeah, they look nice mate
good video. would've liked to see them painted up to see how they end up too. Just a simple paint and a wash or something
I'll be covering that in the lets makes mate
Any painted examples of these techniques? Would like to see the difference between the sand paper and filler textures.
Mel, you've got me thinking. I want to build a medieval village scene with some 1/20 villagers with torches, a building and a Maschinen Krieger! Any ideas about how to make a thatched roof? Something like hog bristles?
I always used bristles from cheap hand brushes for thatching. Obviously beige/yellow ones, make little round bundles, glue them (I prefer super glue for quick success). Cut the bristles to length then start applying them to the roof from bottom to top. Hope that helps.
That sounds like a good idea to try. Bottom to top makes much sense. I need to look at a lot of Cotswold photos to see how the real thing looks.
Teddy bear fur is a very common material for thatch.
Now that would never have occurred to me!
That's because the Teddy Bears are messing with you mind.
Just as a quick note, the daub should be almost flush with the wood as it was applied quite thickly to provide insulation.
Yes, and if you really want to go all out you can use a small sculpting tool to add brush marks. Also rough up the surface.
I've actually seen it at various depths, I wonder if it's got something to do with layers been added over time mate?
Duuuuung!
"I'll grab my bits!" Ooh, matron!
I wasn't even trying with that one
You are a natural comedy genius.
You don't need the foamboard. Just build with the timber frame and put some clay inside the frame.
First thank you for a wonderful video. Second I am curious Mel, did you cut the sand paper on the grit side for any specific reason or just just because you preferred to?
I didn't even think about which side I should cut it mate ;-)
Great stuff. Chuck RVRR
Air drying clay? PVA & tissue! 😸 Filler? Toothpaste!
yes bin mening to do butch of littl houses over a gen fore fun and WHFB got some and goofed up one mad wood shud mad out card board uesing A GW WD mag plain and just not good out card will bin better will see more