Good job. I happen to prefer to use a stacked dado over a router. My opinion is that there is less chance of error, but it's probably personal opinion.
I have a stacked dado, but with longer pieces of plywood it can be a little dangerous. So instead of having to change out my blade setup often between various cuts, I’m just using a router, and it works great.
Finally up to about the same point with subscribers you were at when I first contacted you. 1,438 Subscribers and counting. When is your next video coming out? Got any entertaining ideas floating around?
@@craftsmanconnection I haven't had any epiphanies recently, but I've always just recorded as different things hit me. Not the best way to grow something, but RUclips wasn't ever a business idea, just a way to get information out there. How about you?
@@MyFortressConstruction I have a lot of videos recorded, but haven’t had much energy or motivation to stay up late after work to edit all the video. I’ve done about 3 videos in the past few weeks, but try to keep that up. My day job or remodeling wears me out in this 105 F heat, and my night job consist of resting or estimating, or editing. For Christmas, I’m going to ask Santa for some Editing Elves! 😉😂Know of any video editors?
Great video, thanks! From one vet to another, a few questions I have, please: - Did you attach a back to it? The last I can see there's no back. If you did, what material, and how did you attach? Glue and nail? - When you drill the pocket holes are you pre-drilling the second piece that you screw into as well? Or that's self tapping? What size & type of screws? - Do cabinet shops that you get doors & drawers from always build custom, or are there standard sizes that's worth planning for to save some cost (or is it not enough savings to worry about)? - If there's a full side that won't be seen, is it possible to use a cheaper, standard 3/4" plywood (not hardwood), like a subfloor would be? Or is the hardwood aspect important for strength of connections, etc?
On an Oven cabinet, a back panel is optional. You’ll never see behind the tall double oven, and behind the drawer below it. The only place you could see is in the upper cabinet. If the drywall is finished out nicely, then it is optional. You don’t need the extra hassle of a wood panel blocking the oven electrical box, therefore requiring you to do a cut out. Seems like a panel would be a waste of $50-$55 for a 4’x8’ x 1/4” panel. This cabinet is all painted. If you were doing a stain grade cabinet, it would be more important to have a back panel, and stain grade plywood on the side you considered a subfloor plywood. On the saving of money, and attempting your idea of subfloor plywood, this cabinet has a door area above, and subfloor plywood is rougher than cabinet grade plywood. Subfloor plywood cost around $35 - $50 right now, but you’d have to spend time making it smooth, putty, and paint. The quality you’re willing to accept, it up to you. For my clients, I’d never even consider it as an option, unless you want to piss someone off. When I drill pocket holes, I use a Kreg pocket hole jig. The Kreg drill bit has an adjustable locking depth collar on it, and that collar stops the drill bit about 1/16” or so short of going through the entire first piece of wood. Then the self-tapping screw pierces through it, and goes into the second piece without needing to be pre-drilled. You would use 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. There is a screw size chart on the package for various thicknesses of wood, and collar depth for this drill bit jig. Use Course thread if the last piece is soft wood like pine or maple, and fine thread for things like Oak, Cherry, Mahogany, etc. Cabinet shops charge around $80 for a shaker style door, and $100 per raised panel door with the hinges included. Always get a quote if you are doing this job for a client’s whole kitchen, so you don’t accidentally underbid by $500-$1,000. Things like square footage of door and drawer fronts matter. Upper cabinet doors are taller than base cabinet doors. You get the idea? It’s best to stay away from the plywood subfloor idea. It may sound like a good way to save money, but the plywood I’ve seen has had a higher moisture content, and consequently more warped, wavy, and rough surfaces/edges. Is saving $50 or so worth the wide range of hassles? Also, subfloor plywood has some air pocket voids in the middle randomly. What if that is where you need your pocket hole screw point to sink into? Good luck with your oven cabinet build.
@@craftsmanconnection Thanks so much for the quick & great reply. Totally understand on the subfloor.. it seemed like it would be pretty strong and not visible, but understand now it's not worth the hassle. On the back panel, my main thought is that there's no "triangle" / stiffening side to side with the front of the cabinets three huge holes, and the back wide open. Surely something needs to stiffen it laterally? Also, the back of the shelves on top I would think would need a backing that's not drywall, and you need some way to attach the cabinet to the back wall. I'm not visualizing how all that could happen without it? My question about custom doors was because you mentioned that you order them at the end. That tells me maybe if you needed to adjust 1/2" or something, you would order the doors & drawers to precise measurements. Since I haven't ordered one yet, I wasn't sure if they had a larger production run of common sizes.
@timm439 As far as “stiffening” the cabinet, it gets attached to the wall with screws through the back nailers. A nailer is a piece of solid wood or plywood. If you don’t like the nailer look, then you can use a 1/2” to 3/4” piece of plywood in that upper cabinet area, or the whole back panel. If there are studs to attach to on a side wall, that is additional support. You have to imagine what that would look like finished. What do you want to see when you look inside? Will it matter after things are put inside? Is this stain grade or paint grade? Is there glass doors or wood paneled doors? This is all a matter of expectations for the finished appearance.
@timm439 If you’re building a custom cabinet and have to do the paint or stained finish, you’ll likely have custom doors made to match existing doors. If you find a prefab door somewhere, you can build your cabinet openings to suit, sort of. Don’t want things to start looking weird or off. You might find standard height doors for base and upper cabinets, but may not be likely for an oven cabinet. Better to do custom for an oven cabinet, unless you’re trying to match something else I don’t know about.
Very good job Do you.mind put in writing all the measurements and possibly a picture of all the parts with details so I'm can follow an make my own cabinet . All like a recipe, this will make your presentation much better.
I’ve tried to include some dimensions, but most of the other dimensions are dependent on your appliance information, room dimensions, cabinet depth, and style of existing cabinetry. I’ve already filmed another video on How to make a sink cabinet and for a cooktop area, that was on the same kitchen remodel project. I’ll definitely add more dimensions in the next video when I do some voiceover and screen text. Thanks for letting me know what you would like about the next video.
This cabinet is for a 30” oven, which means the rough opening width is 29” typically. You can find this information for your specific oven in the manual or online. I mentioned the 19” height of the opening above the oven, and there was about a 10” drawer opening height below the oven. The depth was 25 1/2” I think, so this way the adjacent counter top would not protrude past the cabinet front. If you have any specific dimensions you need, I still have that oven cabinet plan.
There are 2 pieces on that corner of the oven cabinet. The angled blocks are just referred to as Beveled Corners and this wood is sold in lengths about 8-10 feet long so you can cut them to the length you need. The fancy corner piece is called a Classic Round Corner, and also sold in 8-10 foot pieces at the local hardwood supplier, like Plywood Company of Fort Worth for $3.44 per lineal foot + tax.
I do not have a video on finishing these cabinets. Someone else did the painting. However, when I do paint cabinets, I use a white lacquer undercoater (primer) from Sherwin Williams. It sands super smooth with a 150 grit sanding sponge, which is equivalent to a 320 grit sandpaper. Then I spray apply an oil based top coat of paint, and get the best finish, like a car paint finish. One of the secrets of getting the primer to spray smoother requiring less sanding is to add about 2-4 cups of lacquer thinner, and then the same to the paint. As far as the cabinet doors, I’m not sure what part of the country you are located, but you can go to any local cabinet shop for those, and the doors might cost you around $75-100 per average size cabinet door, and drawers might cost $100-$150 depending on size and include drawer slide hardware.
Yes, of course. Every area of wood should be sealed up with a finish, to keep as much humidity from getting into the wood for expansion and contraction of the finishes on the visible side. You won’t need to care about the appearance of the finish in areas that you can’t see, such as where the oven will be inside of the cabinet, and the top of the cabinet.
I'm a female senior citizen who needs some advice, please. I need to install my microwave over my wall oven. Unfortunately, the cabinet from 30 yrs ago did not come with a shelf for the microwave to sit on. (I suspect a combo oven/microwave unit used to be there but now there will be 2 separate units.) I'm at a loss how best to anchor this shelf. I thought the simplest for me do is to use 20" or 22" metal braces/brackets (cabinet is 24" deep). The shelf dimensions are close to the inside dimensions of the cabinet. My question is what screws to anchor the microwave to the back of the cabinet and drywall. I know I need longer than what comes with the metal braces but I thought I may need anchors or molley bolts. What are your thoughts as to how best I should do this? I would appreciate any advice you can give as I'm being given exorbitant quotes, although I have the braces, the trim kit and wood in hand.
Hello J. Mitchell, a normal microwave unit does not get anchored to the wall. However if you have a over the above unit, there could be that possibility, but o wouldn’t recommend it due to the air filters, lights, and possible angle to the bottom of the unit. A picture is worth a thousand words, and if I could see the oven cabinet, and microwave that would be a big help. If you have a normal counter top model microwave, you could mount some right angle brackets to support a shelf, but I would prefer to use a Kreg pocket hole jig and screws with two 23-1/4” long pieces of wood 3/4” below the level that you want the microwave, add a face frame piece flush with the front, and then add the shelf with finish nails and glue.
If you can provide a picture of what you have or product model number info, I can tell you more about the install, electrical requirements, …usually a dedicated 20 amp circuit per code, as I am also a former building inspector. And then from there what I normally charge for something like that so you can compare that to what you are being quoted. To save some time, what are you being quoted?
@@craftsmanconnection Thank you for your prompt response. I worded it wrong when I said "how best to anchor the microwave" when I meant to say "how best to anchor the shelf." I have pictures somewhere in my gallery that I will forward to you along with model numbers. I got a quote of $220 but the gentleman was sure he could use the metal tray that comes in the trim kit to support the microwave but I informed him that tray elevates the microwave for heat flow and it sits on the shelf and the tray is not strong enough. So that was a "no" for me. Two other bids came in between $369- $420 + supplies.
Hi J. Mitchell, now seeing this pricing, if you had a shelf already and called me out to install just the microwave, we would charge around $175, but with the added shelf requirement, it would probably be around that $325 + materials. The materials that we would normally have to buy is 1 sheet of 3/4” maple plywood for about $96 and 1 piece of 3/4” x 8-10’ maple face frame material for $12-$14 for a total of $108-$110 in materials. With $325 plus $110 is $435….plus the hour at $75 at the material supplier. One of the biggest things other than obvious red flags with “idiots” who think they can do stuff, is being cautious of the low bidder without a detailed scope of work. Your job as a consumer is to get a plan in writing, and in a drawing if possible, to make sure you are getting what you expect, demonstrating the cabinet/carpenters comprehension of what his plan is. I can quickly sketch out a plan for my client in 3D, or 2D depending on what is needed to convey the intent of work.
How much weight can that dado and glued shelf support? Do you not need to run any additional supports for the oven? I thought those combination style ovens weigh like 300 lbs?
The typical double oven is about 375lbs. The shelf for the oven is put into the 2 dado joints, but is also supported on the backside of the shelf with a 2-3” piece of lumber under the shelf from side to side with every joint of the piece of wood glued and screwed. On the face frame, the 3-1/2” or so piece of wood is also thoroughly glued and nailed to the shelf and the rest of the face frame is also glued and screwed. Hopefully that helps. It helps to see other oven cabinets to see how they change the size of the face frame lumber, rear support lumber, or other hidden supports to achieve the look you want or the space limitations you may have.
In addition to my first comment, I’m using all 3/4” plywood materials. If you follow the instructions in the video and anything else you see me doing, it will definitely support the oven. I like to do things more on the overkill side. Most cabinet shops will use 1/2”-5/8” plywood because they’re trying to cut cost by a few bucks. On the other hand, I want plenty of surface area for the glue to adhere to, and make it easy to get a nail in the center of the 3/4” side that won’t blow out the face side of the plywood.
@@carlpfeiffer77 Thanks for the feedback! We bought a bosch HBL8463UC combination oven/microwave and need to build a box to integrate it into our current cabinet style and layout. I'll definitely be referring back to your tutorial.
Yes. I have purchased the majority of my lumber from a local hardwood supplier, but have also purchased some maple plywood from Home Depot. One time I purchased some plywood, that may have been from Home Depot, and I had a situation where I found the 48” side was about 1/2” out of being square. Just check it with a framing square, T-square, etc., so you don’t assume the plywood is perfectly 90 degrees at the corners.
Hi Wendy, the battery powered finish nail gun is a DeWalt 15 gauge angled finish nailer. Model number DCN650D1 is the number for the kit with battery and charger.
Nice job now I can build oven cabinets Big thanks 😊 u help
Thank you for your service and for sharing your project with us my friend.
Thank You Hugo! 😄
Thanks so much for sharing this video. Great advice and gave us enough confidence to start our project.
Let me know if you need any more advice or another video on some other cabinet or project, and I’ll see what I can do.
Good job. I happen to prefer to use a stacked dado over a router. My opinion is that there is less chance of error, but it's probably personal opinion.
I have a stacked dado, but with longer pieces of plywood it can be a little dangerous. So instead of having to change out my blade setup often between various cuts, I’m just using a router, and it works great.
Good video! LIke your shop and the breakdown of your time and materials on this project!
Thank you Bro! 😄 Good to hear from you. I’ve seen a bunch of your videos, like the last one on Milwaukee vacuum comparison.
Finally up to about the same point with subscribers you were at when I first contacted you. 1,438 Subscribers and counting. When is your next video coming out? Got any entertaining ideas floating around?
@@craftsmanconnection I haven't had any epiphanies recently, but I've always just recorded as different things hit me. Not the best way to grow something, but RUclips wasn't ever a business idea, just a way to get information out there. How about you?
@@MyFortressConstruction I have a lot of videos recorded, but haven’t had much energy or motivation to stay up late after work to edit all the video. I’ve done about 3 videos in the past few weeks, but try to keep that up. My day job or remodeling wears me out in this 105 F heat, and my night job consist of resting or estimating, or editing. For Christmas, I’m going to ask Santa for some Editing Elves! 😉😂Know of any video editors?
Great video, thanks! From one vet to another, a few questions I have, please:
- Did you attach a back to it? The last I can see there's no back. If you did, what material, and how did you attach? Glue and nail?
- When you drill the pocket holes are you pre-drilling the second piece that you screw into as well? Or that's self tapping? What size & type of screws?
- Do cabinet shops that you get doors & drawers from always build custom, or are there standard sizes that's worth planning for to save some cost (or is it not enough savings to worry about)?
- If there's a full side that won't be seen, is it possible to use a cheaper, standard 3/4" plywood (not hardwood), like a subfloor would be? Or is the hardwood aspect important for strength of connections, etc?
On an Oven cabinet, a back panel is optional. You’ll never see behind the tall double oven, and behind the drawer below it. The only place you could see is in the upper cabinet. If the drywall is finished out nicely, then it is optional. You don’t need the extra hassle of a wood panel blocking the oven electrical box, therefore requiring you to do a cut out. Seems like a panel would be a waste of $50-$55 for a 4’x8’ x 1/4” panel. This cabinet is all painted. If you were doing a stain grade cabinet, it would be more important to have a back panel, and stain grade plywood on the side you considered a subfloor plywood.
On the saving of money, and attempting your idea of subfloor plywood, this cabinet has a door area above, and subfloor plywood is rougher than cabinet grade plywood. Subfloor plywood cost around $35 - $50 right now, but you’d have to spend time making it smooth, putty, and paint. The quality you’re willing to accept, it up to you. For my clients, I’d never even consider it as an option, unless you want to piss someone off.
When I drill pocket holes, I use a Kreg pocket hole jig. The Kreg drill bit has an adjustable locking depth collar on it, and that collar stops the drill bit about 1/16” or so short of going through the entire first piece of wood. Then the self-tapping screw pierces through it, and goes into the second piece without needing to be pre-drilled. You would use 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. There is a screw size chart on the package for various thicknesses of wood, and collar depth for this drill bit jig. Use Course thread if the last piece is soft wood like pine or maple, and fine thread for things like Oak, Cherry, Mahogany, etc.
Cabinet shops charge around $80 for a shaker style door, and $100 per raised panel door with the hinges included. Always get a quote if you are doing this job for a client’s whole kitchen, so you don’t accidentally underbid by $500-$1,000. Things like square footage of door and drawer fronts matter. Upper cabinet doors are taller than base cabinet doors. You get the idea?
It’s best to stay away from the plywood subfloor idea. It may sound like a good way to save money, but the plywood I’ve seen has had a higher moisture content, and consequently more warped, wavy, and rough surfaces/edges. Is saving $50 or so worth the wide range of hassles? Also, subfloor plywood has some air pocket voids in the middle randomly. What if that is where you need your pocket hole screw point to sink into?
Good luck with your oven cabinet build.
@@craftsmanconnection Thanks so much for the quick & great reply. Totally understand on the subfloor.. it seemed like it would be pretty strong and not visible, but understand now it's not worth the hassle.
On the back panel, my main thought is that there's no "triangle" / stiffening side to side with the front of the cabinets three huge holes, and the back wide open. Surely something needs to stiffen it laterally? Also, the back of the shelves on top I would think would need a backing that's not drywall, and you need some way to attach the cabinet to the back wall. I'm not visualizing how all that could happen without it?
My question about custom doors was because you mentioned that you order them at the end. That tells me maybe if you needed to adjust 1/2" or something, you would order the doors & drawers to precise measurements. Since I haven't ordered one yet, I wasn't sure if they had a larger production run of common sizes.
@timm439 As far as “stiffening” the cabinet, it gets attached to the wall with screws through the back nailers. A nailer is a piece of solid wood or plywood. If you don’t like the nailer look, then you can use a 1/2” to 3/4” piece of plywood in that upper cabinet area, or the whole back panel. If there are studs to attach to on a side wall, that is additional support. You have to imagine what that would look like finished. What do you want to see when you look inside? Will it matter after things are put inside? Is this stain grade or paint grade? Is there glass doors or wood paneled doors? This is all a matter of expectations for the finished appearance.
@timm439 If you’re building a custom cabinet and have to do the paint or stained finish, you’ll likely have custom doors made to match existing doors. If you find a prefab door somewhere, you can build your cabinet openings to suit, sort of. Don’t want things to start looking weird or off. You might find standard height doors for base and upper cabinets, but may not be likely for an oven cabinet. Better to do custom for an oven cabinet, unless you’re trying to match something else I don’t know about.
Nice but where is the end photos?
The end photos of the cabinet are at the very beginning on the video of me standing in front of it, and in the thumbnail.
Very good job
Do you.mind put in writing all the measurements and possibly a picture of all the parts with details so I'm can follow an make my own cabinet . All like a recipe, this will make your presentation much better.
I’ve tried to include some dimensions, but most of the other dimensions are dependent on your appliance information, room dimensions, cabinet depth, and style of existing cabinetry.
I’ve already filmed another video on How to make a sink cabinet and for a cooktop area, that was on the same kitchen remodel project. I’ll definitely add more dimensions in the next video when I do some voiceover and screen text. Thanks for letting me know what you would like about the next video.
This cabinet is for a 30” oven, which means the rough opening width is 29” typically. You can find this information for your specific oven in the manual or online. I mentioned the 19” height of the opening above the oven, and there was about a 10” drawer opening height below the oven. The depth was 25 1/2” I think, so this way the adjacent counter top would not protrude past the cabinet front. If you have any specific dimensions you need, I still have that oven cabinet plan.
Hi ! Great video
What is that Trim called to do that fancy corner
Please and thank you 🙏
There are 2 pieces on that corner of the oven cabinet. The angled blocks are just referred to as Beveled Corners and this wood is sold in lengths about 8-10 feet long so you can cut them to the length you need. The fancy corner piece is called a Classic Round Corner, and also sold in 8-10 foot pieces at the local hardwood supplier, like Plywood Company of Fort Worth for $3.44 per lineal foot + tax.
DO you have a video on how you are finishing the cabinets inside and out and how and where to order the doors from?
I do not have a video on finishing these cabinets. Someone else did the painting. However, when I do paint cabinets, I use a white lacquer undercoater (primer) from Sherwin Williams. It sands super smooth with a 150 grit sanding sponge, which is equivalent to a 320 grit sandpaper. Then I spray apply an oil based top coat of paint, and get the best finish, like a car paint finish. One of the secrets of getting the primer to spray smoother requiring less sanding is to add about 2-4 cups of lacquer thinner, and then the same to the paint.
As far as the cabinet doors, I’m not sure what part of the country you are located, but you can go to any local cabinet shop for those, and the doors might cost you around $75-100 per average size cabinet door, and drawers might cost $100-$150 depending on size and include drawer slide hardware.
I have a video on stain grade finishing, located in the cabinet finishing playlist. Same process, but different products used.
@@craftsmanconnection Thank you, I appreciate the quick response
@@craftsmanconnection I assume you finish the insides the same way?
Yes, of course. Every area of wood should be sealed up with a finish, to keep as much humidity from getting into the wood for expansion and contraction of the finishes on the visible side. You won’t need to care about the appearance of the finish in areas that you can’t see, such as where the oven will be inside of the cabinet, and the top of the cabinet.
I'm a female senior citizen who needs some advice, please.
I need to install my microwave over my wall oven. Unfortunately, the cabinet from 30 yrs ago did not come with a shelf for the microwave to sit on. (I suspect a combo oven/microwave unit used to be there but now there will be 2 separate units.) I'm at a loss how best to anchor this shelf. I thought the simplest for me do is to use 20" or 22" metal braces/brackets (cabinet is 24" deep). The shelf dimensions are close to the inside dimensions of the cabinet.
My question is what screws to anchor the microwave to the back of the cabinet and drywall. I know I need longer than what comes with the metal braces but I thought I may need anchors or molley bolts. What are your thoughts as to how best I should do this? I would appreciate any advice you can give as I'm being given exorbitant quotes, although I have the braces, the trim kit and wood in hand.
Hello J. Mitchell, a normal microwave unit does not get anchored to the wall. However if you have a over the above unit, there could be that possibility, but o wouldn’t recommend it due to the air filters, lights, and possible angle to the bottom of the unit.
A picture is worth a thousand words, and if I could see the oven cabinet, and microwave that would be a big help.
If you have a normal counter top model microwave, you could mount some right angle brackets to support a shelf, but I would prefer to use a Kreg pocket hole jig and screws with two 23-1/4” long pieces of wood 3/4” below the level that you want the microwave, add a face frame piece flush with the front, and then add the shelf with finish nails and glue.
If you can provide a picture of what you have or product model number info, I can tell you more about the install, electrical requirements, …usually a dedicated 20 amp circuit per code, as I am also a former building inspector. And then from there what I normally charge for something like that so you can compare that to what you are being quoted. To save some time, what are you being quoted?
@@craftsmanconnection Thank you for your prompt response. I worded it wrong when I said "how best to anchor the microwave" when I meant to say "how best to anchor the shelf." I have pictures somewhere in my gallery that I will forward to you along with model numbers. I got a quote of $220 but the gentleman was sure he could use the metal tray that comes in the trim kit to support the microwave but I informed him that tray elevates the microwave for heat flow and it sits on the shelf and the tray is not strong enough. So that was a "no" for me. Two other bids came in between $369- $420 + supplies.
@@craftsmanconnection The microwave is a Panasonic model #NN-SD975S and the trim kit is Panasonic model #NN-TK922SS.
Hi J. Mitchell, now seeing this pricing, if you had a shelf already and called me out to install just the microwave, we would charge around $175, but with the added shelf requirement, it would probably be around that $325 + materials. The materials that we would normally have to buy is 1 sheet of 3/4” maple plywood for about $96 and 1 piece of 3/4” x 8-10’ maple face frame material for $12-$14 for a total of $108-$110 in materials. With $325 plus $110 is $435….plus the hour at $75 at the material supplier. One of the biggest things other than obvious red flags with “idiots” who think they can do stuff, is being cautious of the low bidder without a detailed scope of work. Your job as a consumer is to get a plan in writing, and in a drawing if possible, to make sure you are getting what you expect, demonstrating the cabinet/carpenters comprehension of what his plan is. I can quickly sketch out a plan for my client in 3D, or 2D depending on what is needed to convey the intent of work.
How much weight can that dado and glued shelf support? Do you not need to run any additional supports for the oven? I thought those combination style ovens weigh like 300 lbs?
The typical double oven is about 375lbs. The shelf for the oven is put into the 2 dado joints, but is also supported on the backside of the shelf with a 2-3” piece of lumber under the shelf from side to side with every joint of the piece of wood glued and screwed. On the face frame, the 3-1/2” or so piece of wood is also thoroughly glued and nailed to the shelf and the rest of the face frame is also glued and screwed. Hopefully that helps. It helps to see other oven cabinets to see how they change the size of the face frame lumber, rear support lumber, or other hidden supports to achieve the look you want or the space limitations you may have.
In addition to my first comment, I’m using all 3/4” plywood materials. If you follow the instructions in the video and anything else you see me doing, it will definitely support the oven. I like to do things more on the overkill side. Most cabinet shops will use 1/2”-5/8” plywood because they’re trying to cut cost by a few bucks. On the other hand, I want plenty of surface area for the glue to adhere to, and make it easy to get a nail in the center of the 3/4” side that won’t blow out the face side of the plywood.
@@carlpfeiffer77 Thanks for the feedback! We bought a bosch HBL8463UC combination oven/microwave and need to build a box to integrate it into our current cabinet style and layout. I'll definitely be referring back to your tutorial.
@@carlpfeiffer77 Is the 3/4 Purebond maple from home depot satisfactory for making cabinets?
Yes. I have purchased the majority of my lumber from a local hardwood supplier, but have also purchased some maple plywood from Home Depot. One time I purchased some plywood, that may have been from Home Depot, and I had a situation where I found the 48” side was about 1/2” out of being square. Just check it with a framing square, T-square, etc., so you don’t assume the plywood is perfectly 90 degrees at the corners.
Thanks for everything,question. Do you build and ship? Just asking because I’m in need of having a WOLF double wall oven built .
Hi Pat, we do not ship cabinets. If a customer was local within an hour drive, we would consider it.
Were are you located? I’m in Missouri
@@craftsmanconnection I’ll drive a couple of hours if I need to
@@patmills9917 in DFW area of Texas, but say Hi to my Aunt Carol (Pfeiffer) Minjares in Missoula!
@@patmills9917 obviously I just woke up, I was thinking Montana, and you said Missouri. 😅
Model number of the nail gun?
Hi Wendy, the battery powered finish nail gun is a DeWalt 15 gauge angled finish nailer. Model number DCN650D1 is the number for the kit with battery and charger.
@@craftsmanconnection thank you!!
turn on shop vac
Thanks for the reminder! 😅