FOLDFORMING PART 4. "CUFFS & BRACELETS"
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- Опубликовано: 18 фев 2022
- PART 4. Explore different Cuff & Bracelet design examples using Foldforming techniques: Line, Tee, Wedge, Pleated, Leaf, Boat, and Tube Folds. Learn how to make "Raw Edges" into "Safe Edges" on Cuffs using Fold Over, Rolled, Hidden, & Tube methods. Designer Craftsman Jeweler, Greg Greenwood, explains the methods used to make each cuff in an easy to understand way. Parts 1,2,&3 of this Foldforming Series are recommended viewing prior to viewing this Part 4 video. Methods will be more understandable by watching these videos.
Amazing Greg. I’ve been wondering how to incorporate food forming into a cuff and what to do with the edges. Thank you again.
Hello Shelly, Make sure you watch the entire 6 part series on foldforming. Thanks again for watching. Greg Greenwood
I'm so glad I came across your videos! I've gotten so much inspiration. I'm ready to get out my hammer!!!!
Hello Deborah, Way to Go!!! I am very glad I can inspire you. Let my know how it goes. Thanks Greg Greenwood
This series is fascinating Greg... so much information and plenty of ideas to nourish my creativity. Appreciate you expertise and the time that you put into making these videos. Agree completely with with previous poster - the content is very valuable. Thanks again!
Hello LA, Thank you for your great comments. I appreciate it. Glad the information is valuable to you. Take Care. Greg Greenwood
Thank you so much Mr Greenwood for sharing your priceless expertise!
Hello Barbara, You are more than welcome. It is my pleasure to share with you. Thank you for watching. Greg Greenwood
I’m so excited to watch this video this is the content I’ve been looking for! Thanks so much for making it.
Hello Fungus Fairy, You're so welcome! If you have any questions, please feel free to let me know. Greg Greenwood
Outstanding! I would love to see you make the cuff with the boat fold on the inside and the leaves on the outside all the way from start to finish. Many great ideas - I am going to start small with copper sheets for pendants and do some folding and hammering. Wish me luck! I have been making jewelry for awhile, but am a newbie at soldering…. Thanks for all of your helpful instruction.
Hello Virginia, Thank you. I appreciate it. I agree with you to start small and build confidence and experience. Don't be afraid to "goof up" . That is when you learn! Yes, Good Luck for Sure. Ask questions anytime. Greg Greenwood
Hi again Gregg, I'm wondering if it's best to shape the cuff before adding all the components or soldering the components on then shaping the cuff. It seems like it would be easier to build it then shape it but I'm seeing some jewelers shape then solder the components on. I have a feeling I'm missing something and shaping then soldering the components on is the way to go. If you have a moment, would you mind explaining what the difference is between the two?
Thanks again for giving so much of yourself to this community.
Hello Cannon, I agree with you. Most often it is better to solder on the components, then shape the cuff. That is when the components are flat and are soldered directly to the cuff. But, if your components are more 3 dimensional, then it but best to solder after the cuff is bent. I hope this helps you. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it. Greg Greenwood
Greg, I just discovered your channel and am binging on your videos. Very well done indeed. Perhaps what I like the most is your enthusiasm. Two additional comments and a request. First, I've never used your techniques for a safe edge on cuff. I've always just file, sanded and buffed the edges into a rounded cross-section and felt with my fingers to assure no sharp edges. Sometimes I use a small ballpein along the edge to "flare" up the edge away from the "skin" side. Haven't had any complaints or Emergency Room events yet. I like the thinner edge, but I did try some of your techniques and I will incorporate in my work when the design will allow. Second, color patina. I've been able to experiment and develop some awesome "electric" colors. Sadly, no coating I have found and used preserves the vibrancy of the colors. You can get the colors to remain, but in a much more muted form. But that was a good lesson to learn. Forget about the colors. The underlying form must work in and of itself. Now the request. If you get a chance I'd love for you to do a video on your torch and another on your workshop set up in general including ventilation. Thanks again for this marvelous work.
Hello Daniel, Thank you very much for your kind comments. I appreciate it. I too like the thinner edge in most designs.
Unfortunately in foldforming the metal is much thinner so I have to compensate for that, thus the safe edge. Glad you are open to different ideas. That is what makes this field so exciting. Many ways to solve one problem! You are 100% right about color patinas. I hope you discover a way to preserve. You will be famous. Thanks for your ideas for future videos. I have been thinking about doing these, so maybe soon. Thank you again, and let me know if you have any questions. Greg Greenwood
Beautifu and subbedl! I especially like the one at 6:33. Thank you so much for this as I am new to foldforming and was looking for some good education. Love your easy to understand explanations also :) Sorry as I may have missed this in other videos, but what would you recommend as a gauge for cuffs (assuming 2-3cm wide)? I read in Charles's book that 0.3 and 0.5mm are good, though I saw a jeweler making anti-clastic forms and said he preferred 0.9 minimum. I also thought anticlastic forms were strong enough to get away with 0.3-0.5mm?
Hello Louise, Thank you for your kind comments. I really appreciate it. Welcome to foldforming!! You are going to love it. I use .4mm for all of my foldforming. It is perfect because any of the folds add strength. As for the raw edges, I have a few ways to solve that problem in the video. So, go ahead and use the .3 to .5 mm and don't worry about it, just enjoy. Greg Greenwood
Thank you for sharing and teaching us.
I'm working on my first sterling silver cuff and am wondering what gage of sheet I should use for the base? Also what considerations should I think about when creating and soldering the components on to the piece?
Hello Cannon, Congrats on your first silver cuff! The gauge all depends on the design, but generally 20 to 18 gauge will work fine. As for the components soldering to the piece, check out my videos "Sweat Soldering Part 1" and "Sweat Soldering Part 2". These videos will answer many of your soldering questions for soldering onto sheet silver. Also, on a cuff, there is a lot of surface to heat up. Make sure that you have a large enough torch to heat the metal to solder melting temps. And heat from back or bottom. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Thank you Gregg
Hello Cannon, You are more than welcome. Greg Greenwood
Very beautiful, what a craftmanship! What did you do to obtain those beautiful colors on the copper. Did you use peanutoil? I love the results, thank you for your foldformingseries.
Hello, Nice to hear from you. Thank you for your comments. I cleaned the copper with steal brush and then heat treated the copper. VERY LIGHTLY. Do not overheat. Take it slooooow. Unfortunately, copper will continue to turn colors. You can wax or spray with clear lacquer. Not a permanent solution, but does slow the process down. Thank you for watching and commenting. Talk to you soon. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Thank you very much for those tips, I love your video's and your very nice and friendly teaching.
Hi Greg can you help me a bit? I'm going to make a cuff bracelet from 2 inch wide silver with some specific cut-outs in it. I can't help thinking like an engineer, I don't intend to buy a mandrel but I would like to make one, but make it to a design. I can't find any specific industry dimensions on the web, all I can find is overall length with an aperture width and and depth measurement. Maybe that's enough and I'm over thinking it. I know that not all folks have the same size features but metal cuff bracelets seem to be very vaguely sized. I'm obviously planning to have some flexibility in the piece but I'd like to start off from a good place. Do you have a guide for say the minimum diameter of the radius at either end of a Large, Medium and Small cuff bracelet.
Regards . . . Andy
Hello Andy, I have to laugh because you are always thinking like an engineer!!! There are no rules to the sizes of bracelets. I feel your best bet is to cut a strip of heavy paper 2in. wide and wrap around your wife's wrist to get a comfortable measurement. Then you can add or subtract to make smaller or larger. You may even want to make a prototype in copper or aluminum first. Then you can get the feel of the metal without using the expensive silver. Mandrels can be made from wood if you wish. Or use a large pipe. Either pvc or metal.
Good luck and let me know how it goes. Take care. Say Hi to your wife. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Hi Greg I've been so busy I haven't had time to take a look at RUclips for a while. You're right, I can't help thinking like an engineer. I've pretty much come to the conclusion that that jewellery making is more relaxed than engineering. Although a good understanding of some aspects of engineering stands me in good stead. I've recently purchased a Sievert professional jeweller's gas torch (propene only) and I've got to say I'm a bit disappointed with it. I'm sure for some applications it would be a great little torch. there were some assembly quality issues with it. None of the metal to metal seals were any good. I had to loosen and retighten them all several times to get them to seat properly. Using two spanners I' had to tighten the joints up to the point of almost over tightening them. I found that the bend in the neck of the torch needed modifying so that I'm not holding the hose end of the torch up in the air when working at a regular bench height. But the biggest disappointment is the lack heat from the needle point nozzle. At 4 bar it gives a blue cone about 1-1/4" long but but I'm struggling to melt 'hard' solder on a "T" joint of 1.5 X 1.5 mm square wire. I have to build up a hearth which can get in the way. I wish I had oxy-acetylene. By the way I didn't reduce the gas flow by bending the neck.
Let me know when you have an email address that you want to release and, if you're interested, I'll show you what I've made so far.
Regards. . Andy
Hello Andy, Sorry to hear about your torch. Sievert torches are supposed to be good torches. I use a older Prest-O-Lite acetylene / air mix torch. I can use it in all ranges of heat from small wires to casting silver. ... Go to my channel and look in the 'About' section. My email will be in there for you. This way we can send photos etc. when needed. Thanks for the update and talk to you soon. Greg
LOVE your videos👑🙏 can I please ask what sheets size you use? And between brass and copper, which you prefer?
Hello Mona, I use 24 -26 gauge sheet. I like copper better. Thanks Greg Greenwood
So many light bulbs were going off on this one lol. Thanks for explaining the different methods of handling the raw edges. I think we will try this to make some bracelets. We're thinking about using a leather backing and perhaps copper riveting it on or? Is the patina seem on the copper from annealing in-between folding the copper? Thanks for this video. Looking forward to the next one. All the best.
Hello David and Laura, I was wondering what the bright flashes in the sky were! Glad to hear it. The leather would be great. So many possibilities with it. Rivets work great for this. Try snaps too. That way you can change color of leather with your mood.... The patina in the video is not from the annealing. After the pieces were done, I cleaned with a steel brush and then VERY SLOWLY AND LIGHTLY, heated with torch. This brings out the interesting colors. Please note, these colors will not last forever. It will keep oxidizing and turning more brown and grey. You can wax or lacquer the pieces. This will help. Have Fun. Greg Greenwood
We hadn't thought of different colors of leather. great idea! The patina on these look really interesting and we hadn't thought of laquer. We have some around from our woodworking. We'll keep that in mind when . Thanks for the advice
My pleasure. Greg Greenwood
Thank you. Have you done any demos on marriage of metals.
Hello Indira, I have not yet. Possibly in the future. Thanks for your suggestion. Greg Greenwood
Can brass be fold formed too?
Hello Nora, Yes, you can use brass. It must be at least .4mm thin. It will work harden quickly. It is not as good as copper. Thanks. Keep watching. Greg Greenwood