Thank you Terry for sharing this technique in depth. This was a very well out together video. Please do give us an update on these in the future (don't sell them haha)
Thanks Alex. I plan to keep them so I can show the results over the next years. This is where it all starts 😃. Thanks for watching and for the kinds words.
Hi Alex! A good while ago somewhere you said you were getting ready to start a RUclips channel. What’s happened?! We need more channels in my opinion, it’s just becoming a bunch of inexperienced ‘creators’ toadying to each other and not really achieving anything really. I’m casting my net further afield these days! Hope you’re well n God bless you 🙏✝️ ✌️🇷🇺☮️🇺🇦✌️
Thanks Terry, I did the same thing this past spring. I had 100 1 year old seedlings. Made multiple 5-9 tree clumps, some two and three, even a couple forests. All made it through the first summer great. Thinking I may plant them in the ground for faster thickening. I used 1/4” PVC boards instead of a tile. Used a hole saw to drill 5” rounds and then standard drill bits for the trees. Hoping this material will be easier on the tools when it comes time to cut them free.
Thanks! In fact this was in a fairly old Bonsai Today magazine originally so it’s not something most people will have in their library unfortunately. Please do try it out when you can, it’s fun.
Thank you for this clip. I will try youre clump style method. Very interesting. The last method i have done but with a hose clamp. You can get a much tighter fit so roots will develop very quickly.
Thanks for watching and the comment. The technique with the washer is not simply about getting roots, if so there are other techniques. The washer causes the tree to swell above the washers, then issue roots, then these roots grow horizontally because of the washer.
I've heaps of 1 year and 2 year tridents and Acer palmatums seedlings that have leafed out so next year i will be doing this but with some pvc just loved your video
Very informative and advice like always, wish to see some beginner friendly content :) I believe that technice call Ebihara metod. What about watering with tile inside ? Top watering not water medium under tile. Do you recommend soaking container from time to time ?
Thank you for taking the time to do this video and share it with us all. I just had one question, in your opinion, do the benefits of pruning Japanese maples in the spring outweigh the lose of energy/ negative effects from the tree bleeding? Say a large trunk chop or any cuts larger than 8 or 10mm. I always struggle with this, when you want as many new buds to pop as possible, when is the best time. Early spring, after the first flush hardens, or after leaf drop in autumn?
Thanks David! One should not prune them in spring due to the sap loss. I prune them in Autumn for the last time. You can also prune them in late spring as you suggest. I believe the best time for the best back budding is Autumn, 2nd best is late spring.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thank you, as far as more detailed precise timing, am I correct in thinking the best time is as soon as the leaves fully turn color, no green left? All of the energy will be in the roots by then? My thinking is, if I cut too early, I will be cutting off a lot of the energy that the tree has made through the summer? I am sorry for asking so many questions, I just want to make sure I understand the reasons behind these things. Thanks again.
Hi Terry, would love to see an update on this at some point please. Very interested in the progress as I am also doing a few fusions/clump style currently, thanks. All the best from the UK 🇬🇧🇬🇧
Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Sure, I will do. Just wanted to give them time to develop a bit. I can probably do an update in spring 2024.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai that would be amazing, thank you. I know your probably very busy but I’ve just started my RUclips journey and was wondering if you could view the latter part of my video called ‘Clump Style Bonsai’ and advise whether I should start looking at the roots or just leave to fuse. It’s November here in 🇬🇧 and starting to get colder and was thinking I should remove now and check the roots out. Thank you. Don’t worry if too busy, thank you Terry. All the best.
Great idea! Question: why did you cut off most of the original roots, since they will all be removed later? Seems that if you'd have left all of the original roots that the trees would grow a bit faster. ?
Thanks Les for watching. Actually I answered this question on the video. I said it is because if you leave all the roots on it’s even more difficult to get media in between the root balls, a task made already very difficult by the tile. Bear in mind that this technique was originally for unrooted cuttings. If it wasn’t for this, certainly the trees would grow faster with more of their roots still attached.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai OK, that makes sense. I'm sorry that I missed that in the original presentation. I find all of your presentations very informative. Thank you for them.
Hi Terry. i living in New Zealand and its summer hear now and wants to do some airlaerings now can u tell me from how young branches can i use to airlaer from thanks for all the help and time to come back to us
Johan, late spring is the best time to air layer and then again in autumn perhaps. How young the branches, to be honest I don’t know. I’ve never been asked that and I would imagine you would want to air layer an interesting branch which is unlikely to be a young branch. However in theory you can air layer any age of branch but then if it’s that young why not simply do a cutting instead of an air layering?
Thanks Marc! Essentially the tile does produce a ground layering. As far as I see it, it would make little sense to create a ground layer and then put it into/onto the tile but I sure, you could do it. Try it and let me know.
That's unique way to do things, and the tile looks as if it would hold in moisture for healthy root development. So when it grows roots on top and starts making good nebari flare out and starts to over grow their placement holes. I presume that's the best time to cut the bottom out force it out of the tile holes or gently break the tile with a hammer. There's a product called reptile carpet that's made from recycled plastic bottles that would make cutting this out much easier. Sometimes we have to think outside the fundamentals. Also you can use a dog slow feeder bowl to control root development pathway.
Thanks for commenting! The tile does not hold water, it’s fired too high. As described in the video, once the roots have fused you cut the bottom roots off and then remove the clump. You don’t break the tile, you can reuse it. You have some nice ideas and I hope you give them a try!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Sorry Terry I must of missed some very good information, as I was busy cooking food for my family while trying to have a few moments to watch your video. Don't worry I'll re-watch the very parts I missed out.
Thank you Terry for the well edited video & techniques. 1) In a clump style, isn't the goal to fuse the trunks together instead of the roots ? The tile solution doesn't seem to be helping this. 2) Isn't it better to individually produce root flare using washer technique & then clump them together ? Does the tile technique offer any advantages over it ? 3) Would have been very helpful if you had included in your video, a finished specimen either from your collection or a pic from media, so the audience sees the end product right away. Perhaps you can consider this in future videos.
Thanks Vinny. 1. A clump style is not fused trunks no. 2. No it’s not better but you could do either. Yes, the roots fuse with one another in the layout you created so it’s a single step instead of 2. 3. I said I sold the ones I did before. I said, if you watched the entire video that I would like to have presented it to show but without having one to show, should I rather not have done this video and only do one in 3 years, at which point everyone who could have started something like this would be 3 years behind? Just use a little imagination for the moment is all I ask please. I cannot use photos off the internet without the owners permission otherwise I would be guilt of plagiarism/copyright infringement.
I’ve never used that technique. I’ve seen it used for air layering though. However depending on the species, the tree will simply grow over it unless a very thick wire is used. However I would suggest it will not produce roots as predictably as this technique.
I was thinking the same thing.. he didn't really specify the purpose of the second method.. so that's kinda interesting... I'll have to give that a try.. I have seen the first method described in a bonsai book I purchased but its also nice to see it described on video to fully understand the concept.
@@mmjnice97 it also makes all the new roots grow on one plane, which is super nice, easy way to get nice roots on young trees. At least that's my understanding
Hi Terry, any advice for Japanese Maple, grown from seed, one year old?. They will bud, and push leaves, but the new leaves die back rather quickly. Recently transferred them to some of your general soil mix, never have them dry, nor full wet..... Yet, can't seem to get them to continue growing healthier
I’m sorry Martin but this is a problem which plagues many collections, including mine. I know it as anthracnose. The best treatment is a variety of fungicides. I don’t know of a permanent cure yet.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thanks for the insight Terry.....I mostly assumed temperature/location or something might be the root cause, as I'm in Beaufort West, which I know is not ideal, hehe. I'll then now try the fungicide route , thanks again!
Hi Terry, super interesting! Do you think the reason that Bonsai Today recommended cuttings is maybe to have genetic uniformity for autumn color timing etc.?
Great question Felix! I think it was just what the original author did as he grew a lot of maples and got into the habit of taking lots of cuttings. Eventually he had so many he started getting creative with ways to use multiple plants instead of growing individual bonsai with them. So he thought of clumps and other group plantings. He developed this tile idea as worked in a tile factory. Your comment about more uniform colour etc is certainly valid but I don’t think it had any part to play in this instance.
Hi Terry, great class, as always! Quick question: you mention Japanese Maples from seed; I have always seen Japanese Maple grafted onto other Maples rootstock (with the issue of the graft scar on non air layered trees), and growers have told me that JM doesn't grow true from seed...is your experience different, or perhaps you are using a particular cultivar? Thank you!
Thanks Victor. Those are specific cultivars which you are referring to, this is the standard acer palmatum, which grows easily from seed. However from seed you will always get minor variations from the mother plant. The reason for grafting is often actually as the rootstock of the fancy maple is not strong and so to make it grow better it is grafted onto palmatum.
I cannot get maple cuttings to root at all. Very frustrating. This technique reminds me of ebihara method. Just shows theres different ways to get the same thing.
When have you taken your cuttings? Yes, in bonsai there isn’t often a wrong and a right, there are simply many versions or roads which all lead to the same destination.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai i have taken them in different times and different thicknesses. Spring ( before bug breaks) Spring (after bud break) Late spring Early summer Late summer Middle of fall (this was done in frustration lol) I have tried two different strengths of root hormone. Tried potting mix, natural soil. I havent tried water or bonsai soil. Next year I am going to try air layers.
Thank you Terry for sharing this technique in depth. This was a very well out together video. Please do give us an update on these in the future (don't sell them haha)
Thanks Alex. I plan to keep them so I can show the results over the next years. This is where it all starts 😃. Thanks for watching and for the kinds words.
Hi Alex! A good while ago somewhere you said you were getting ready to start a RUclips channel. What’s happened?! We need more channels in my opinion, it’s just becoming a bunch of inexperienced ‘creators’ toadying to each other and not really achieving anything really. I’m casting my net further afield these days! Hope you’re well n God bless you 🙏✝️ ✌️🇷🇺☮️🇺🇦✌️
Me encanta este video. Thanks for such a detailed techniques and clear way to make it. Really thank you!!!!!!!
It is my pleasure, thank you for watching and I hope you will try it, that will make me very happy.
I will try this in spring, thanks for sharing 🇩🇰🌳😎
Awesome. Good luck Finns.
Thanks Terry, I did the same thing this past spring. I had 100 1 year old seedlings. Made multiple 5-9 tree clumps, some two and three, even a couple forests. All made it through the first summer great. Thinking I may plant them in the ground for faster thickening.
I used 1/4” PVC boards instead of a tile. Used a hole saw to drill 5” rounds and then standard drill bits for the trees. Hoping this material will be easier on the tools when it comes time to cut them free.
That’s awesome Brad! If I had PVC board laying around I would have used that instead, much easier to cut and drill holes.
Thankyou Terry great video good information im gonna try it next season!!!!
That’s great John, enjoy!
Superb idea. can't wait for spring to have a go at this! I think I'll try it with beech.
Thanks great Tony! Best of luck with the beech. Do let me know how it goes! 👏🏻
Hey Terry. I haven't seen this done before! Thanks for sharing this technique! I may try this in the future!
Thanks! In fact this was in a fairly old Bonsai Today magazine originally so it’s not something most people will have in their library unfortunately. Please do try it out when you can, it’s fun.
Brilliant, dankie Terry!
My plesier AM! 💪🏻
Thank you for this clip. I will try youre clump style method. Very interesting. The last method i have done but with a hose clamp. You can get a much tighter fit so roots will develop very quickly.
Thanks for watching and the comment. The technique with the washer is not simply about getting roots, if so there are other techniques. The washer causes the tree to swell above the washers, then issue roots, then these roots grow horizontally because of the washer.
I've heaps of 1 year and 2 year tridents and Acer palmatums seedlings that have leafed out so next year i will be doing this but with some pvc just loved your video
Great idea! Thanks for watching and for the compliment
Wow that's something I need to try out.
Definitely, give it a go. All these sorts of projects add to your experience and hopefully some great bonsai too.
Very informative and advice like always, wish to see some beginner friendly content :) I believe that technice call Ebihara metod. What about watering with tile inside ? Top watering not water medium under tile. Do you recommend soaking container from time to time ?
You can soak the container, it won’t do any harm but I have not and the trees have grown just fine.
Thank you for taking the time to do this video and share it with us all. I just had one question, in your opinion, do the benefits of pruning Japanese maples in the spring outweigh the lose of energy/ negative effects from the tree bleeding? Say a large trunk chop or any cuts larger than 8 or 10mm. I always struggle with this, when you want as many new buds to pop as possible, when is the best time. Early spring, after the first flush hardens, or after leaf drop in autumn?
Thanks David! One should not prune them in spring due to the sap loss. I prune them in Autumn for the last time. You can also prune them in late spring as you suggest. I believe the best time for the best back budding is Autumn, 2nd best is late spring.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thank you, as far as more detailed precise timing, am I correct in thinking the best time is as soon as the leaves fully turn color, no green left? All of the energy will be in the roots by then? My thinking is, if I cut too early, I will be cutting off a lot of the energy that the tree has made through the summer? I am sorry for asking so many questions, I just want to make sure I understand the reasons behind these things. Thanks again.
Or is pruning after color change, too late it won't have enough time to start to heal the wound and it will still bleed the next spring.
Hi Terry, would love to see an update on this at some point please. Very interested in the progress as I am also doing a few fusions/clump style currently, thanks. All the best from the UK 🇬🇧🇬🇧
Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Sure, I will do. Just wanted to give them time to develop a bit. I can probably do an update in spring 2024.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai that would be amazing, thank you. I know your probably very busy but I’ve just started my RUclips journey and was wondering if you could view the latter part of my video called ‘Clump Style Bonsai’ and advise whether I should start looking at the roots or just leave to fuse. It’s November here in 🇬🇧 and starting to get colder and was thinking I should remove now and check the roots out. Thank you. Don’t worry if too busy, thank you Terry. All the best.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai We will be patiently waiting for the video upload:)
Great idea! Question: why did you cut off most of the original roots, since they will all be removed later? Seems that if you'd have left all of the original roots that the trees would grow a bit faster. ?
Thanks Les for watching. Actually I answered this question on the video. I said it is because if you leave all the roots on it’s even more difficult to get media in between the root balls, a task made already very difficult by the tile. Bear in mind that this technique was originally for unrooted cuttings. If it wasn’t for this, certainly the trees would grow faster with more of their roots still attached.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai OK, that makes sense. I'm sorry that I missed that in the original presentation. I find all of your presentations very informative. Thank you for them.
Hi Terry. i living in New Zealand and its summer hear now and wants to do some airlaerings now can u tell me from how young branches can i use to airlaer from thanks for all the help and time to come back to us
Johan, late spring is the best time to air layer and then again in autumn perhaps. How young the branches, to be honest I don’t know. I’ve never been asked that and I would imagine you would want to air layer an interesting branch which is unlikely to be a young branch. However in theory you can air layer any age of branch but then if it’s that young why not simply do a cutting instead of an air layering?
Thanks Terry now I know what to do can't wait to do the airlaerings have some unusel mapel stok
Great demonstration, Terry! Would ground layering the base of those trunks speed root growth over the tile?
Thanks Marc! Essentially the tile does produce a ground layering. As far as I see it, it would make little sense to create a ground layer and then put it into/onto the tile but I sure, you could do it. Try it and let me know.
That's unique way to do things, and the tile looks as if it would hold in moisture for healthy root development.
So when it grows roots on top and starts making good nebari flare out and starts to over grow their placement holes. I presume that's the best time to cut the bottom out force it out of the tile holes or gently break the tile with a hammer.
There's a product called reptile carpet that's made from recycled plastic bottles that would make cutting this out much easier. Sometimes we have to think outside the fundamentals. Also you can use a dog slow feeder bowl to control root development pathway.
Thanks for commenting! The tile does not hold water, it’s fired too high. As described in the video, once the roots have fused you cut the bottom roots off and then remove the clump. You don’t break the tile, you can reuse it. You have some nice ideas and I hope you give them a try!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Sorry Terry I must of missed some very good information, as I was busy cooking food for my family while trying to have a few moments to watch your video. Don't worry I'll re-watch the very parts I missed out.
Thank you Terry for the well edited video & techniques.
1) In a clump style, isn't the goal to fuse the trunks together instead of the roots ? The tile solution doesn't seem to be helping this.
2) Isn't it better to individually produce root flare using washer technique & then clump them together ? Does the tile technique offer any advantages over it ?
3) Would have been very helpful if you had included in your video, a finished specimen either from your collection or a pic from media, so the audience sees the end product right away. Perhaps you can consider this in future videos.
Thanks Vinny. 1. A clump style is not fused trunks no. 2. No it’s not better but you could do either. Yes, the roots fuse with one another in the layout you created so it’s a single step instead of 2. 3. I said I sold the ones I did before. I said, if you watched the entire video that I would like to have presented it to show but without having one to show, should I rather not have done this video and only do one in 3 years, at which point everyone who could have started something like this would be 3 years behind? Just use a little imagination for the moment is all I ask please. I cannot use photos off the internet without the owners permission otherwise I would be guilt of plagiarism/copyright infringement.
I recommend watching Bjorn at Eisei-En's videos showcasing a nice clump style maple, which is the result this technique would achieve.
@mandrews93 thanks for making that suggestion. Bjorn makes awesome content for sure.
Is this an alternative to binding the tap root with a piece of wire, to promote trunk growth?
I’ve never used that technique. I’ve seen it used for air layering though. However depending on the species, the tree will simply grow over it unless a very thick wire is used. However I would suggest it will not produce roots as predictably as this technique.
What is the purpose of the second method (single plants in the washer) for younger trees like this? Is it just to increase the flare at the base?
Thanks Angela. Spot on, you guessed it! 👍🏻
I was thinking the same thing.. he didn't really specify the purpose of the second method.. so that's kinda interesting... I'll have to give that a try.. I have seen the first method described in a bonsai book I purchased but its also nice to see it described on video to fully understand the concept.
@@mmjnice97 it also makes all the new roots grow on one plane, which is super nice, easy way to get nice roots on young trees. At least that's my understanding
Hi Terry, any advice for Japanese Maple, grown from seed, one year old?. They will bud, and push leaves, but the new leaves die back rather quickly. Recently transferred them to some of your general soil mix, never have them dry, nor full wet..... Yet, can't seem to get them to continue growing healthier
I’m sorry Martin but this is a problem which plagues many collections, including mine. I know it as anthracnose. The best treatment is a variety of fungicides. I don’t know of a permanent cure yet.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thanks for the insight Terry.....I mostly assumed temperature/location or something might be the root cause, as I'm in Beaufort West, which I know is not ideal, hehe. I'll then now try the fungicide route , thanks again!
Hi Terry, super interesting! Do you think the reason that Bonsai Today recommended cuttings is maybe to have genetic uniformity for autumn color timing etc.?
Great question Felix! I think it was just what the original author did as he grew a lot of maples and got into the habit of taking lots of cuttings. Eventually he had so many he started getting creative with ways to use multiple plants instead of growing individual bonsai with them. So he thought of clumps and other group plantings. He developed this tile idea as worked in a tile factory. Your comment about more uniform colour etc is certainly valid but I don’t think it had any part to play in this instance.
Hi Terry, great class, as always! Quick question: you mention Japanese Maples from seed; I have always seen Japanese Maple grafted onto other Maples rootstock (with the issue of the graft scar on non air layered trees), and growers have told me that JM doesn't grow true from seed...is your experience different, or perhaps you are using a particular cultivar? Thank you!
Thanks Victor. Those are specific cultivars which you are referring to, this is the standard acer palmatum, which grows easily from seed. However from seed you will always get minor variations from the mother plant. The reason for grafting is often actually as the rootstock of the fancy maple is not strong and so to make it grow better it is grafted onto palmatum.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thank you so much Terry!
👍👌🙂
🙇🏼♂️
I cannot get maple cuttings to root at all. Very frustrating.
This technique reminds me of ebihara method. Just shows theres different ways to get the same thing.
When have you taken your cuttings?
Yes, in bonsai there isn’t often a wrong and a right, there are simply many versions or roads which all lead to the same destination.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai i have taken them in different times and different thicknesses.
Spring ( before bug breaks)
Spring (after bud break)
Late spring
Early summer
Late summer
Middle of fall (this was done in frustration lol)
I have tried two different strengths of root hormone. Tried potting mix, natural soil. I havent tried water or bonsai soil. Next year I am going to try air layers.
Drill holes first then cut the circle it's safer
Thanks Erick. Why is it safer? None of mine cracked or broke and I did just short of 10. Or is it for some other reason.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai you usually have more control over a larger piece drilling into small pieces tend spin out on you.
@@ericksepulveda5850 this is true. Good idea.
Thank you for sharing I enjoy learning from you
@@ericksepulveda5850 thanks Erik, and I learnt something from you now too 😊.
In japan, the biggest trend is to use foam boards. But the results aren’t as impressive
Really? I have not seen that. Interesting. Why do you think the foam is not as effective? Does not heat up perhaps?
@@TerryErasmusbonsai I’m guessing maybe that. Or it does not create that prominent swelling. But it does create a healthy root system
ᵖʳᵒᵐᵒˢᵐ ❣️
Thanks Julia 😊