Thanks for the video, well done! I am retired and doing small engine repair partime. I would like to share a couple of things I have learned. If you have an air impact wrench, in some cases you can remove a flywheel bolt etc. without stabalizing the piston. If that doesn't work, and you don't have a special tool. Take out the plug and move the piston near the bottom. Then feed rope into the cylinder to keep the piston from going to the top. I have a Stihl saw that the clutch is glazed. I was going to sandblast both parts to remove the glaze and make a surface with much more friction. If it works, or not, I will post it. Tried etching with rust remover (phosphoric acid) but it didn't produce the surface I was looking for. Also not sure if it is a big concern, but didn't want to overdo it with the phosphoric acid as there could be a problem with hydrogen embrittlement from what I have read. Thanks again, and hope this is of some help to thers.
Thank you VM Marck and congratulations!. I have learned much from your videos, for example: How to Remove and Reinstall a Drill Press Chuck, in that time I was assembling an old drill press chuck. The best for you, again thank you. Best Regards from Argentina
@Sasquatch7foot A spur sprocket will begin to develop grooves on the drive surfaces when it is worn. A rim sprocket will develop indentations on the surface of the drive holes. My saw is also a model 55. When I purchased it it was also .325" pitch. I replaced the sprocket, bar, and chain and converted it to 3/8" pitch. I run a 16" bar on it which is enough for most jobs. It sure cuts fast with the 3/8" pitch chain! Thanks for watching, -Mark
Check the spark arrestor in the muffler and make sure that it isn't plugged. If it looks good the next thing I would look at is cylinder wear which would lead to lack of compression. Use a compression tester to check the cylinder compression. It should be around 110lbs. Anything less than 70lbs. would indicate a worn out cylinder and piston rings. I hope this helps, -Mark
Excellent information useful also for Tanaka. Comment about making up a tool with 2x1 wood about 3 feet and putting in 2 screws is the answer for an old machine rather than the hammer and screwdrive method. Thanks everyone for useful info Don at Buckinghamshire UK
i have a homelite chain saw and when i start it it runs great but as soon as i touch it to a single peice of wood it bogs down really bad. i already rebuilt the carburator. any think you might be able to think of? Thanks,
Mark I learned a lot from this video , you make it look so easy , I was unaware they made a piston binder , if I were to replace many clutches I would purchase one of these for sure , one of the better videos I've watched , good presentation , ty Arnold
hi there, please can you tell me the advantage/disadvantage of spur and rim sprockets, try to buy one for my father's farm in the Philippines, thank you so much! really learned a lot!
as a mechanic can you give me a tip, I changed chain,bar,sproket and clutch on an old Dolmar 115, only problem is the clutch isn´t gripping, engine runs okay , chain rotates but as soon as you apply pressure it stands still. Have I got the wrong clutch or do I need to manipulate it in some way before mounting it
Hi Mark--quick question..I'm new to chainsaw repair. I have a Husqvarna 353 saw and I removed the two C shaped clutch springs thinking I needed to do this in order to replace a spur sprocket. Is there a special way to get the springs back on to the clutch? I can't seem to do it. Great video and thanks in advance for answering my question.
Removing the clutch classic (the one with the big springs just for instance) chainsaw?You serve as a key to open it? Here in this video clutch it is easy but in my case it is not so ... !! I await recommendations and solutions. Thank you in advance and Best regards.
hello muchisimas gracias por el video,,ahora se como se cambia eso ,,,ufff nunca pense que asido de hacer asi para cambiar...yo he estado haciendo todo mal ,,,pero ahora se muy bien gracias una vez mas mi profesor ..sigue adelante
This is a very good video! I had no questions after watching it. I like the fact that it gave you multiple alternatives (costly method, and low budget method). :-)
he should have greased the sprocket bearing while he had it apart , or at least made mention of it . I had never seen the cord trick before. It would have good to see it actually done .
as a chainsaw mechanic i can say that if the saw is allready used you will never get the clutch off like that...the clutch have left "nut" so when the saw is running the clutch is tightened more by itself.... piston lock and clutch key !!!! sory for my bad english
Right. I made a home-made clutch key. Just a piece of wood with two screws in it. I had to built it twice, because the first version wasn't strong enough and broke. Srewdriver didn't work. I don't like pounding on maschines, it's better to apply "soft torque"
Hi Carl, there are clutch removal tools that are made. But the screwdriver and hammer method has been used for years and does not do any damage to the clutch.
+johnathan hughley The timing on most of the small 2 stroke motors is almost always preset, The flywheel goes onto the crankshaft. Both the Crankshaft and Flywheel are Keyed so theirs only one position for the timing to be in.
Husqvarna says that you are supposed to grease the needle bearing about once a week. Where is the needle bearing? Isn't the needle bearing behind the sprocket and clutch?
Some of the clutch housings have roller bearing in the center that ride on the shaft. Most have brass bushings. I've not heard of or seen a service recommendation that suggested greasing that often.
was trying to change oil pump, but couldn't get passed the sprocket took other side of saw apart tried to knock the whole section with no luck, who would think sticking a piece of bloody rope down the piston, so very technical. great production now piece of piss.
You don't pull the whole rope in on shot. YOU DON'T WANT THE ROPE INTO THE EXHAUST PORT. You position the piston to the top, push in 1 inch of the rope, and turn the engine so that the piston pushes the rope up, and push in another inch and repeat until you get about 8 inch of rope AT THE TOP OF THE CHAMBER, NOT INTO THE EXHAUST PORT.
"spur clutches and rim clutches" ? I think you mean spur drive or rim drive - the clutch is either an outboard clutch or an inboard clutch either of which will drive a rim or a spur. A rim drive is more desirable because it is cheaper to replace.
Jesus, I thought the guy in the shop was just an idiot and didn't know how to do it properly, but you are actually suppose to jam something into the damn cylinder?! What kind of birdbrain design is that... Anyway good tutorial.
yeah...use the string and ruin your piston/rings. what a dumb idea. do you know some people dont know it may get caught on the ports? oh nevermind. you just wanna sell some parts
The cord ideal is ok if you make sure the piston is near top dead center before filling the cylinder with the cord.. But very good point .. Jose is right you can ruin your piston and rings if you are not careful..
1. I put the string in the piston, it turned over and caught my string. 2. string is caught in piston now. 3. now I have to either take my brand new chainsaw apart or bring it to a shot so I can look like an idiot... oh yeah can u take a shoe lace string out of my piston yeah thanks. worst idea to lock the clutch up ever
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video, well done! I am retired and doing small engine repair partime. I would like to share a couple of things I have learned. If you have an air impact wrench, in some cases you can remove a flywheel bolt etc. without stabalizing the piston. If that doesn't work, and you don't have a special tool. Take out the plug and move the piston near the bottom. Then feed rope into the cylinder to keep the piston from going to the top. I have a Stihl saw that the clutch is glazed. I was going to sandblast both parts to remove the glaze and make a surface with much more friction. If it works, or not, I will post it. Tried etching with rust remover (phosphoric acid) but it didn't produce the surface I was looking for. Also not sure if it is a big concern, but didn't want to overdo it with the phosphoric acid as there could be a problem with hydrogen embrittlement from what I have read. Thanks again, and hope this is of some help to thers.
Thanks Mark. Very good video which helped a great deal and saved me spending £18 on a clutch removal tool.
Thank you VM Marck and congratulations!. I have learned much from your videos, for example: How to Remove and Reinstall a Drill Press Chuck, in that time I was assembling an old drill press chuck. The best for you, again thank you. Best Regards from Argentina
Very cool trick using a screw driver & hammer. Thanks for the great video, my clutch just burned up on Saturday!
@Sasquatch7foot A spur sprocket will begin to develop grooves on the drive surfaces when it is worn. A rim sprocket will develop indentations on the surface of the drive holes. My saw is also a model 55. When I purchased it it was also .325" pitch. I replaced the sprocket, bar, and chain and converted it to 3/8" pitch. I run a 16" bar on it which is enough for most jobs. It sure cuts fast with the 3/8" pitch chain!
Thanks for watching,
-Mark
Check the spark arrestor in the muffler and make sure that it isn't plugged. If it looks good the next thing I would look at is cylinder wear which would lead to lack of compression. Use a compression tester to check the cylinder compression. It should be around 110lbs. Anything less than 70lbs. would indicate a worn out cylinder and piston rings.
I hope this helps,
-Mark
Once you remove your drive sprocket, before installing your new part, should you not remove and grease your roller bearings before reassembly?
Excellent information useful also for Tanaka. Comment about making up a tool with 2x1 wood about 3 feet and putting in 2 screws is the answer for an old machine rather than the hammer and screwdrive method. Thanks everyone for useful info
Don at Buckinghamshire UK
i have a homelite chain saw and when i start it it runs great but as soon as i touch it to a single peice of wood it bogs down really bad. i already rebuilt the carburator. any think you might be able to think of?
Thanks,
Mark I learned a lot from this video , you make it look so easy , I was unaware they made a piston binder , if I were to replace many clutches I would purchase one of these for sure , one of the better videos I've watched , good presentation , ty Arnold
hi there, please can you tell me the advantage/disadvantage of spur and rim sprockets, try to buy one for my father's farm in the Philippines, thank you so much! really learned a lot!
as a mechanic can you give me a tip, I changed chain,bar,sproket and clutch on an old Dolmar 115, only problem is the clutch isn´t gripping, engine runs okay , chain rotates but as soon as you apply pressure it stands still.
Have I got the wrong clutch or do I need to manipulate it in some way before mounting it
thanks for showing the rope trick; it worked great!
Good video but wondering if hammering on that clutch will do any damage to the piston when it hits that stop?
You are good. You stay on subject and clearly give info. thanks
A very good video. Thank you and best regards from Finland.
I can't seem to get the clutch/sprocket cover to go back in place on my Husky 345 after cleaning and replacing a chain. can you help?
A great video. Thanks .
Perfect descripton. Thanks!
Helped a lot, thanks!
Hi Mark--quick question..I'm new to chainsaw repair. I have a Husqvarna 353 saw and I removed the two C shaped clutch springs thinking I needed to do this in order to replace a spur sprocket. Is there a special way to get the springs back on to the clutch? I can't seem to do it. Great video and thanks in advance for answering my question.
Thanks. This was great. Best info I have gotten
Where do you buy a "piston binding tool?
Very Good explained!
Removing the clutch classic (the one with the big springs just for instance) chainsaw?You serve as a key to open it?
Here in this video clutch it is easy but in my case it is not so ... !!
I await recommendations and solutions.
Thank you in advance and Best regards.
very helpful. thanks
good job sir..thanks for sharing 😍😍😍
hello muchisimas gracias por el video,,ahora se como se cambia eso ,,,ufff nunca pense que asido de hacer asi para cambiar...yo he estado haciendo todo mal ,,,pero ahora se muy bien gracias una vez mas mi profesor ..sigue adelante
Dear Mark,
Thank you very much for helping me rehab our chainsaw! Mystery dispelled, nothing to get hung about.
C
Priceless video. Thanks
This is a very good video! I had no questions after watching it. I like the fact that it gave you multiple alternatives (costly method, and low budget method). :-)
That Is what I was looking for. Thanks
can u show how to fix a throttle peddle's safety on a chainsaw
he should have greased the sprocket bearing while he had it apart , or at least made mention of it . I had never seen the cord trick before. It would have good to see it actually done .
as a chainsaw mechanic i can say that if the saw is allready used you will never get the clutch off like that...the clutch have left "nut" so when the saw is running the clutch is tightened more by itself.... piston lock and clutch key !!!! sory for my bad english
Thanks for this information and video
Good afternoon nap can mine as much stuck the tip of the screw 3 s
thx, great and informative video!
Great Video
thanks great job,we learn a great trick to open it.
Excellent video, your making it look to easy. :)
On my saw, the clutch appears to be backwards; the teeth for the chain are facing outwards and I can't see the inner parts. Help?
Right. I made a home-made clutch key. Just a piece of wood with two screws in it. I had to built it twice, because the first version wasn't strong enough and broke. Srewdriver didn't work. I don't like pounding on maschines, it's better to apply "soft torque"
Nice Video ,Thanks saved me some grief !
Is it likely that an old chainsaw's clutch cannot be replaced or removed?
thanks for this information and vedio
thank you! now i have learned how to change it :)
nice tutorial .... THANKS !!!!
Terrific! Very helpful.
hello can you help me i have a chainsaw i have tryed everything to take off the clutch but it wont move a bit please help
Te doy las gracias por un detalle que fue lo de la piola en la bujia para sacar el volante del embriague, no tenia como sacarlo ok
String is probably caught in exhaust port, pull the muffler and see if you can remove the string.
I noticed you did not use a special removal tool to remove the clutch instead, you just hammered it off and is that considered the right way?
Hi Carl, there are clutch removal tools that are made. But the screwdriver and hammer method has been used for years and does not do any damage to the clutch.
You should mention that the piston should be above the exhaust port before you
poke the rope in.
Thanks you this video was most helpfull.
thanks for the tips !!
how to set the timing on a sthl 066
+johnathan hughley The timing on most of the small 2 stroke motors is almost always preset, The flywheel goes onto the crankshaft. Both the Crankshaft and Flywheel are Keyed so theirs only one position for the timing to be in.
+eReplacementParts.com what is better spur or rim clutch?
very good video .... thx bro
Smart fella might tie a big knot on the end of that cord. Be pretty irritating for that loose end to slip down that mouse-hole and disappear.
Great video but not what I needed. The strap that goes round the drum on my chainsaw needs replaced. It is a husquvarna 235
what stop the epistle from moveing
Hello Dale, unfortunately at this time we are unable to offer technical support.
How to change a gas thank on a 372xp
The following link will take you to a youtube video that I think will help: ruclips.net/video/EuE71Te73T8/видео.html
Thanks
So nice for those who know... Thanks, very helpful..
مشكور خاااااااااال
Husqvarna says that you are supposed to grease the needle bearing about once a week.
Where is the needle bearing?
Isn't the needle bearing behind the sprocket and clutch?
Some of the clutch housings have roller bearing in the center that ride on the shaft. Most have brass bushings. I've not heard of or
seen a service recommendation that suggested greasing that often.
great
always always always replace the clutch drum bearing
was trying to change oil pump, but couldn't get passed the sprocket took other side of saw apart tried to knock the whole section with no luck, who would think sticking a piece of bloody rope down the piston, so very technical. great production now piece of piss.
You don't pull the whole rope in on shot. YOU DON'T WANT THE ROPE INTO THE EXHAUST PORT. You position the piston to the top, push in 1 inch of the rope, and turn the engine so that the piston pushes the rope up, and push in another inch and repeat until you get about 8 inch of rope AT THE TOP OF THE CHAMBER, NOT INTO THE EXHAUST PORT.
"spur clutches and rim clutches" ? I think you mean spur drive or rim drive - the clutch is either an outboard clutch or an inboard clutch either of which will drive a rim or a spur. A rim drive is more desirable because it is cheaper to replace.
Dominic,, who the hell are you talking about ? the guy in video ? did you work on your saw ?
Jesus, I thought the guy in the shop was just an idiot and didn't know how to do it properly, but you are actually suppose to jam something into the damn cylinder?! What kind of birdbrain design is that...
Anyway good tutorial.
Argh you hit the clutch with the hammer when you should have used a fitting that used a socket wrench. I broke the clutch.
I assume that you are now running around with just one shoe on???
there called nuts ...lol not bolts
yeah...use the string and ruin your piston/rings. what a dumb idea. do you know some people dont know it may get caught on the ports?
oh nevermind. you just wanna sell some parts
The cord ideal is ok if you make sure the piston is near top dead center before filling the cylinder with the cord.. But very good point .. Jose is right you can ruin your piston and rings if you are not careful..
Thanks, also great site powermotors.lt/
1. I put the string in the piston, it turned over and caught my string. 2. string is caught in piston now. 3. now I have to either take my brand new chainsaw apart or bring it to a shot so I can look like an idiot... oh yeah can u take a shoe lace string out of my piston yeah thanks. worst idea to lock the clutch up ever
Great video
Thanks