24:07 The recesses on the oil pan are there to hold the cork gasket in place. Keep in mind that when the car was made silicone products were pretty bad, i.e., cork was still the better option.
Yeah now that I've been paying attention I've seen some others with those humps and they seem to have come with cork gaskets. I figured there was a reason.
Yeah it looks new inside, I went with10w-30. Prob gonna add some Pro-Lube once I'm sure shes done leaking. I did iridium plugs on the Jeep cuz I never wanted to have to do them again, 2 per cylinder like an airplane lol.
@@FixLife119 Is Pro-Lube is an additive for the amateur I’d stay away from it. Yes, it will blend with your 10W-30, but will it survive the temperature cycles? My take on lubricants is get the best one you can afford and stick to it. I will change all my liquid lubricants to Ravenol full synthetics. Because after reading the spec sheets Ravenol are among the best money can buy. Do I really need a Rolex when a Casio would do the same thing? - No I don’t need it, but I want it b cause this is the last car I will ever own.
@@BorisEkner Yeah with how good oils are today its best not to mess with them. I don't worry about the ProLube doing any damage as they've been testing it since '88 and with oil analysis and independents have said you can actually stretch out your oil change intervals double or triple (I would never). They've also removed it and run the engines dry head to head with other engines that had run additives then the oil was removed. Most actually failed before the control, ProLube lasted quite a bit longer. But I do agree with you, you aren't gonna beat a really good synthetic oil, they've done all the R&D so it's prob not great to go changing it. I like doing experiments on things. All the way back to my first job when I had a few bucks left over after payday I'd see what I could afford at the parts store lol. I really like the Amsoil Signature Series Synthetic oil. It has done extremely well on all the tests, I don't think Ravenol was included. I've never heard that name until you mentioned it so I just don't think it's popular here. It'd be cool to see a test between those two types of oil.
@@FixLife119 I’m an old Quaker State guy. Worked for them in Sweden in the 1980’s. Ravenol is a German brand. They sponsored Aston Martin F1 in 2023. This year they support the RB F1, the sister team of Red Bull. I looked at the spec sheets of some of their products and couldn’t easily understand that they have high quality products. Yesterday I watched a RUclips video of two Ford Explorers running 500,000 miles. The only difference between them was the oil. One with a synthetic the other with regular, both Valvoline. At 500,000 miles they took the engines apart comparing conditions. Synthetic oil was a clear winner. Link: ruclips.net/video/l4D8C6WR3pE/видео.htmlsi=He0kjTydhzn8Ui_e
@@BorisEkner I'm watching it now. Wow that's impressive for any engine to make it to 500k miles. I'm curious how many times they were shut off and cooled down completely. This test in the link below is 5 years old so things might have changed but I've seen several videos with similar results and others where they just compare the oil analysis from the lab. I've never seem the Amsoil Sig Series lose. Sucks that they don't include the Ravenol. I'd really love to see a head to head between those two. ruclips.net/video/TWuKvnCq1js/видео.htmlsi=SaCpk538PIhdw5fg
Ahhhh the infamous jug handle 😂 I’m from New Jersey and we have them everywhere smh. Hopefully that oil leak isn’t from your rear main seal should’ve replaced it when you did the clutch but hopefully it isn’t that cuz that would suck.
@@cmdfred856 I didn't know there was a name for those things lol, they are so annoying. I checked the rear main when I had the clutch out, seemed as fresh as the rest. I'm thinking those couple pan bolts vibrated loose and caused the leak.
24:07
The recesses on the oil pan are there to hold the cork gasket in place. Keep in mind that when the car was made silicone products were pretty bad, i.e., cork was still the better option.
Yeah now that I've been paying attention I've seen some others with those humps and they seem to have come with cork gaskets. I figured there was a reason.
38:38
Oil dip stick - from low to high it’s always 1liter, or 1 quart of a gallon on US cars.
Yes sir, that's what I was always told and it's always seemed to hold true, at the bottom line you add a qt and you're good.
22:34
That engine looks great!
If that was my car I’d put Ruthenium or Iridium spark plugs in it and change the oil to 5W-30 or 10W-40 from Ravenol.
Yeah it looks new inside, I went with10w-30. Prob gonna add some Pro-Lube once I'm sure shes done leaking. I did iridium plugs on the Jeep cuz I never wanted to have to do them again, 2 per cylinder like an airplane lol.
@@FixLife119
Is Pro-Lube is an additive for the amateur I’d stay away from it.
Yes, it will blend with your 10W-30, but will it survive the temperature cycles?
My take on lubricants is get the best one you can afford and stick to it.
I will change all my liquid lubricants to Ravenol full synthetics. Because after reading the spec sheets Ravenol are among the best money can buy.
Do I really need a Rolex when a Casio would do the same thing?
- No I don’t need it, but I want it b cause this is the last car I will ever own.
@@BorisEkner Yeah with how good oils are today its best not to mess with them. I don't worry about the ProLube doing any damage as they've been testing it since '88 and with oil analysis and independents have said you can actually stretch out your oil change intervals double or triple (I would never). They've also removed it and run the engines dry head to head with other engines that had run additives then the oil was removed. Most actually failed before the control, ProLube lasted quite a bit longer. But I do agree with you, you aren't gonna beat a really good synthetic oil, they've done all the R&D so it's prob not great to go changing it. I like doing experiments on things. All the way back to my first job when I had a few bucks left over after payday I'd see what I could afford at the parts store lol. I really like the Amsoil Signature Series Synthetic oil. It has done extremely well on all the tests, I don't think Ravenol was included. I've never heard that name until you mentioned it so I just don't think it's popular here. It'd be cool to see a test between those two types of oil.
@@FixLife119
I’m an old Quaker State guy. Worked for them in Sweden in the 1980’s.
Ravenol is a German brand. They sponsored Aston Martin F1 in 2023. This year they support the RB F1, the sister team of Red Bull.
I looked at the spec sheets of some of their products and couldn’t easily understand that they have high quality products.
Yesterday I watched a RUclips video of two Ford Explorers running 500,000 miles. The only difference between them was the oil. One with a synthetic the other with regular, both Valvoline.
At 500,000 miles they took the engines apart comparing conditions. Synthetic oil was a clear winner.
Link:
ruclips.net/video/l4D8C6WR3pE/видео.htmlsi=He0kjTydhzn8Ui_e
@@BorisEkner I'm watching it now. Wow that's impressive for any engine to make it to 500k miles. I'm curious how many times they were shut off and cooled down completely. This test in the link below is 5 years old so things might have changed but I've seen several videos with similar results and others where they just compare the oil analysis from the lab. I've never seem the Amsoil Sig Series lose. Sucks that they don't include the Ravenol. I'd really love to see a head to head between those two.
ruclips.net/video/TWuKvnCq1js/видео.htmlsi=SaCpk538PIhdw5fg
Ahhhh the infamous jug handle 😂 I’m from New Jersey and we have them everywhere smh. Hopefully that oil leak isn’t from your rear main seal should’ve replaced it when you did the clutch but hopefully it isn’t that cuz that would suck.
@@cmdfred856 I didn't know there was a name for those things lol, they are so annoying. I checked the rear main when I had the clutch out, seemed as fresh as the rest. I'm thinking those couple pan bolts vibrated loose and caused the leak.
Please tell me you did put a rubber isolator on the positive terminal of the battery.