Sitting the windless on a pedestal that extends to the back of the sampson post would give you several advantages. 1. Up off a wet deck. 2. Better chain angle on the gypsy. 3. More structural support. 4. Less bending over while cranking. 5. Better seal on deck. Etc. Etc.
SO glad you caught that you greased the braking surface. I'm sure you heard me talking to my PC. On the other hand, your brakes would be very quiet. Finding out as you really needed the brakes would be a pucker moment.
Just an idea here.. A piece of 1/8" thick brass sheet all the way up to the turnbuckle on the bow sprit. Just to protect the wood from chain abrasion. Also it's going to get all muddy in that chain locker. You may want to close that off or you be sleeping with the mud.
Thanks for leaving me with a smile, every time. That subtle project management you do is much like my wife's. Can be days before I realize I've been pointed in the right direction. Most of all, thanks for sharing.
I was just off to bed when this was posted. 10.30pm NZ time. Now i am drinking a coffee/whiskey nightcap and having the perfect end to my day. Well done you two. Your bond grows stronger every day.
One minor suggestion. Our hade or fabricate a lightweight, waterproof bag that you can slide your rolled up bed into when you need to get it out of the way while cruising. The bag will take up almost no space, but will be very convenient to control and protect the bedding.
Going to be interesting to see the hawsehole and hawsepipe dump into the chain locker. Can't believe I am excited over such a seemingly simple requirement. Gotta love it.
Ahhh! You're greasing up the brake surface!!! Whew, he noticed it... Now that's got the making of a fine sailing ship! Can't wait to see her on the open sea!...
Don't be complaining about the rain your getting this winter you people out their need all the rain and snow you can get out there and up in the mountains especially
You need a down angle from the windlass to where the chain goes out of the boat. If the windlass is too low the chain won't be totally secure on the "barbotin" and will slip as soon as you will pull on the anchor.
I think a double gantry system that is easily broke down and stowed would make plucking any engine up and out a breeze. Up, slide, drop, up, slide, drop, up, slide, drop, up, slide, drop, done. With such a system established the stress level of any engine issues from pm's to full on rebuild/replacement is drastically reduced. If made of wood you got it, maybe threaded pipe and flanges, or your buddy at the shop might have any interesting lightweight stowable solution, but either way being able to get the motor on deck w/o being on the hard easily would be awesome.
I recommend a fully enclosed spurling pipe to guide the chain into the anchor locker and keep wet dirt off of your bedding. I understand you'll be anchored using snubbers, but: The bowsprit's chain roller needs a guide or bail to keep the chain from jumping out, when the bow dives under, while leaving a rough anchorage.
That has to be the simplest windlass short of a four armed capstan and sailors to operate it. Keep it well greased and you'll be able to put it on your next boat in about 50 years. Good work you two.
On getting your chain down thru the deck to the storage area: could you use like some 2” PVC pipe below deck and sealing at the deck level. Run the piping close to the chain/ rope storage area? This may help you with a method to consider??
The windlass is beautiful. So beautiful it would look good sitting in my Living Room as an object of admiration! A piece of art cast in the Industrial Age - that also happens to have a real and important function. Btw, the terminology for this beauty (according to merchant marine standard usage) is as follows: a) the rope winch is called a "Gypsy Head", b) the chain wheel is called a "Wildcat", c) the path for the chain, in and out of the chain locker, is called the "Spill Pipe", d) the angled bar under the aft side of the Wildcat, is the "Stripping Bar". Just sayin"!
The only way that this could be better would for it to be twice as long. The best jeans on RUclips. The windlass project is so satisfying. Another great video. Goodnight from Georgia. Cheers.
I was just fixing to comment when you realize that you had grieved the face of the gear that leans against the brake! Glad you caught it now not later!
FYI: You want to raise that windless so that it’s even or above the highest point of the chain otherwise you aren’t going to get enough chain in the pockets of the gypsy.
Friend of mine wrote a book called The Joy of backyard boat building. You might find it amusing. When the publisher ask him what's the difference between this than any other how to do it booked he said this isn't a how to do it, this is how we did it!
A classic Garrett episode, lots of pondering and a good coat of looking at. And a drop of the red stuff, every box ticked for a successful boat project. Have a good 2022 and counting down your 100 days. All the best, Mike in Sheffield UK.
A tip for knowing how much daylight you have! as an estimate when the sun is setting. hold out your hand at arms length bend your wrist 90 degrees so your pinky finger is on the horizon, add fingers to reach the bottom of the Sun. Count the fingers, each finger is approximately 15 minutes of daylight!
I look forward to every Thursday and another video closer to watching you set sail. Your work is amazing as is your craftsmanship. Every day at sea, Redivida will demonstrate how well she is designed and built. You two have a lot to enjoy due to determination, dedication, and sweat.... kinda like marriage. LOL
Looks great!!! The contact surface for the cork brake band (drum) looks too rough. It'll eat the cork if you need to slow a heavy chain with it. You might want to get the drum cleaned up on a lathe. Also, consider using an anti-seize on the fasteners if you want make your life a bit easier in the future.
A hint of Spring is in the air and Red Aviva is looking bonnie. She's testimony to your dedication, skill and determination. Have a Happy & Prosperous 2022. ⚓️👍
I’ve been following your journey for a while, it’s been amazing. Know It’s even more exciting as all that hard work is nearly done . You are so close to becoming sailers & not ship builders. Great job guys
Having the chain rollers on the bowsprit not a good idea IMO. The strains generated when anchored in a heavy blow aren't to be underestimated. But, what do I know, I've no experience in this!
You would never leave the anchor chain supported on the rollers in a heavy blow. The chain would be transferred to an anchor bridle or pendant that is then attached to strong points on the vessel like an anchor eye through the stem or through-bolted deck cleats or through-deck post.
@@delukxy generally, you would never want to anchor a heavy vessel (except maybe for short periods) without a pedant or bridle system that connects to "hard points". Most rollers are not hard point designed (not fastened into a.major boat timber). If your boat has a bowsprit, you must work with it or around it in some fashion. When the anchor is hoisted (especially in rolling or pitching conditions, it is nice to have it hanging away from the sides or stem until it is controlled by some on-deck process. To your point, retrieving an anchor in heavy seas can be a difficult proposition due to the size and period of forces, handling on deck, etc. Having a completely remote system where one can stay at the helm and press a button for hydraulic or electric motors to winch the anchor against extreme forces and automatically stow it safely is great. But every element of that system must be designed with safety margins to stand up to the conditions. Instead, most small vessels depend upon human strength and wise decisions made when deciding to anchor. Generally, you really don't want to depend on the winch itself to carry storm loads - same with a roller system. But you certainly can. Fir Rediviva, I would fully expect this crew to anchor on a bridle or pendant in heavy conditions and consider the roller system strength when retrieving. The bowsprit and rollers have substantial strength. Garrett and Ruthie should also have a plan for anchor retrieval if they need to bypass the sprit rollers.
@@boooshes Your well considered comments just reinforce my concerns. Your last sentence also is very relevant. Of course there will be times when the weather is bad you'll just want to ride it out. It's times like these that use of the rollers when dropping the anchor is concerning. Do you then have to hook the chain off the rollers? Currently there appears to be no reinforced chute for the chain over the bow and below the bowsprit. The chain could also easily foul the bobstay. Am I over analysing this as someone with no yachting experience?
@@delukxy no, you aren't over thinking it. On the other hand, I trust that they have all of these things in mind as well. Chain guards and chain guides often have to be worked out and revised after some experience on a new vessel. It is extremely difficult to correctly predict how anchor rodes, lines, sheets, etc. will run and lay during use. The rollers wouldn't concern me much for dropping anchor. The pendant or bridle gets attached (onto the chain, ahead of the winch) once enough scope is out. Then more chain passes over the winch and rollers until the bridal accepts all of the load. No load would then be on the winch or rollers. How the bridal attach point to the chain rode is accomplished and how it is guided past the rollers is specific to the specific system and the captain. In some ways, this might be similar to concerns about sail reefing systems. Reefing sails during weather changes can be a serious safety issue for the vessel. Some systems require more human strength and involvement, some are more 'automatic'. Not every captain wants roller reefing and electric winches, though - they have their drawbacks. Reefing under heavy wind loads can be tricky and difficult. Wise forethought and execution can make it routine and safer. Anchoring is similar. Having an armored drag location across the gunwale for the chain if needed is likely a good idea, but my guess is that you'll see something like that at some point on Rediviva.
Man you guys got bombarded with comments , well take what you can out of them . Bellybuttons and elbows everybody has umm. We live on a boat and our second boat is moored next door . That's two of every possible nightmare , between rigging, engine , sails , and barnacles living the dream is hard work , wouldn't change a thing , Aloha
Hi Garrett, nice job. Only one thing, you gotta degrease the brake band and braking surface on the big pinion or you simply won’t have a brake when there’s any load on it. Been there, done that! Cheers, R. 😎👍🍻
You could make an attachment so if you were in a hurry. You could adapt a 1/2 drill so it could be powered, temporarly. Parker's (I think) in Marblehead Ma. in the 70's and 80's. Used a 1/2 drill to launch boats from the pier using a homemade crane set up. I am talking 30' sailboats, with full keels!
Good Job. minus the greasing the braking contact area. You will know if you cleaned the surface properly when you attempt to brake the windlass (caution). SWAB rules.
Great video thank you was hoping there would be time to see the windless running, clearly the sun is setting to quickly in your neck of the woods, look forward to the next video
Out standing! Guys! Wet is good in California! Morons with money is what the guy is creating all the wake! no respect for anyone else! An Armstrong windlass how cool is that unless you have to be the operator in the tropics. I see a new Electric windlass in your future, in a few years! after all you guys are young! I always appreciate the details that you explain.
Looks like how that windlass is made it should have heavy gear oil in it for the gears to run in. You should make a gasket for the side cover. Think off all the salt water that is going to be constantly spraying on it.
@@sassafrasvalley1939 Many transmissions rely on braking straps that run in some form of lubricate. I think all motorcycles clutch and pressure plates are wet. Many early vehicles had cork pressure plates that worked within the lubricating system. Just because a braking system runs in oil doesn't mean it won't hold, it depends on the material the braking strap is made of. Why would the windlass be designed with a case if it only required grease for lubricant. Limited slip differentials do not run in grease they run in lubricant. I just think that windlass was designed to be more corrosion resistant than the current set up. That little bit of grease slathered on ring gear and pinion is not going to do much.
A metal pipe for the chain to run thru will go a long way to keeping your bunk clean and dry. Might be nice to have a saltwater pump to hose down the chain as it comes aboard.
Unless the grease is a high temp type it will end up on the surface eventually because the windlass is painted black. Many motorcycle clutches are wet type and they work fine.
lovely project and beutiful to look at this windlass, is it al aluminium?. If that is the case the next time get a bit of TEFGEL in the Stainless stee bolts, that will the prevent the threats in the allumium to be corroded. Probaly you already did it. Cheers!
Glad someone else saw that. Lots of comments about it but most don't admit to having seen that part. Typical TROLLS. Always willing to criticize and denigrate but never acknowledge the corrections when they are made. SOOO many trolls
I sent 10 bucks last video and asked others to match me for a new engine. Well? Isn't all this entertainment worth 10 bucks? Aren't these nice people deserving? God Bless.
RUclipsrs have bought new engines for Peter Knowles of Travels with Geordie, Dr. Hetty ( spelling? ) of Sailing Chuffed and Cap'n Rick of Sailing Sophisticated Lady. Don't see a problem with that here but the base engine is sound all the parts are availabe ( although expensive ) and all she really needs is a reseal. As long as you don't have to pay an exorbitantly overpriced MARINE mechanic it shouldn't take that much to preserve this piece of boating history. I know it's a pain in the posterior but, Garrett, you can do it. And it would so fit the philosophy of Rediviva Please keep her going. And remember, the only thing worse than using it is not using it.
Would it be worth putting an iron or stainless steel inlay into the bowsprit for the chain to rub against rather than possibly damaging the timber with the chain ??
Hola gente hermosa Garret me parece que es muy fragil donde puciste el levanta ancla teniendo en cuenta el peso de la enbarcacion deverias reforsar el anclaje les mando un abrazo enorme y me encanta los videos que hacen desde SAN LUIS ARGENTINA 🇦🇷❤
Due to the fore and aft grain direction of the timber backing plate, wouldn't you contour the top of the 'plate' to fit the arch of the deck, to provide total contact of the backing plate with the underside of the deck? It seems to me that, given the void, the backing plate would be likely to split when the windlass bolts are under tension. Also the plate might be weakened by the lag bolts through the deck beams, into the end grain of the plate. A timber backing plate with the grain perpendicular to the direction of the load might be considered.
Being in the center of the deck I doubt the arc is that extreme but one could put a bit of modeling clay on the mating surface to find out. It's like using plastiguage to check bearing clearance on a motor. Just use a piece of wax paper on one side so it doesn't stick
That looks nice on there! My inner mechanic in me was screaming when I saw the grease going on the brake. lol, So glad you noticed!
A sailboat windless has such a unique sound. Iconic. So glad you got such a classic one.
Sitting the windless on a pedestal that extends to the back of the sampson post would give you several advantages. 1. Up off a wet deck. 2. Better chain angle on the gypsy. 3. More structural support. 4. Less bending over while cranking. 5. Better seal on deck. Etc. Etc.
SO glad you caught that you greased the braking surface. I'm sure you heard me talking to my PC. On the other hand, your brakes would be very quiet. Finding out as you really needed the brakes would be a pucker moment.
That is a SWeeeet windlass! Right on.
That windlass is a thing of beauty. Glad it found a caring home.
Really enjoyed the music on this one! Very peaceful video.
Before I even start, Ruth, I want you to know that you post videos at the most absolutely best times. Thank you. Now let's go watch!
Just an idea here.. A piece of 1/8" thick brass sheet all the way up to the turnbuckle on the bow sprit. Just to protect the wood from chain abrasion. Also it's going to get all muddy in that chain locker. You may want to close that off or you be sleeping with the mud.
as always...... well done kids!
Nothing better than a rock solid windless ⚓️⛵️!
Thanks for leaving me with a smile, every time.
That subtle project management you do is much like my wife's. Can be days before I realize I've been pointed in the right direction.
Most of all, thanks for sharing.
I was screaming at my tv (NOY IN THE BRAKING SURFACE) good catch
Garrett's the boat whisperer.
Watching you put the windlass back together was so calming, especially after a day of dealing with online meetings.
Except for the whole greasing the brake area. Should have replaced the brake pad as well, it looked quite regraded.
Busy carpenters have the shortest pencils🙂
I was just off to bed when this was posted. 10.30pm NZ time. Now i am drinking a coffee/whiskey nightcap and having the perfect end to my day. Well done you two. Your bond grows stronger every day.
One minor suggestion. Our hade or fabricate a lightweight, waterproof bag that you can slide your rolled up bed into when you need to get it out of the way while cruising. The bag will take up almost no space, but will be very convenient to control and protect the bedding.
Going to be interesting to see the hawsehole and hawsepipe dump into the chain locker. Can't believe I am excited over such a seemingly simple requirement. Gotta love it.
Ahhh! You're greasing up the brake surface!!! Whew, he noticed it... Now that's got the making of a fine sailing ship! Can't wait to see her on the open sea!...
Don't be complaining about the rain your getting this winter you people out their need all the rain and snow you can get out there and up in the mountains especially
I'm really surprised how far back the chain will go below deck. Can't wait to see how that works for you.
You need a down angle from the windlass to where the chain goes out of the boat. If the windlass is too low the chain won't be totally secure on the "barbotin" and will slip as soon as you will pull on the anchor.
I think a double gantry system that is easily broke down and stowed would make plucking any engine up and out a breeze. Up, slide, drop, up, slide, drop, up, slide, drop, up, slide, drop, done. With such a system established the stress level of any engine issues from pm's to full on rebuild/replacement is drastically reduced. If made of wood you got it, maybe threaded pipe and flanges, or your buddy at the shop might have any interesting lightweight stowable solution, but either way being able to get the motor on deck w/o being on the hard easily would be awesome.
Thanks for making my day! Bloopers rule!! Windless beautiful
I recommend a fully enclosed spurling pipe to guide the chain into the anchor locker and keep wet dirt off of your bedding.
I understand you'll be anchored using snubbers, but: The bowsprit's chain roller needs a guide or bail to keep the chain from jumping out, when the bow dives under, while leaving a rough anchorage.
That has to be the simplest windlass short of a four armed capstan and sailors to operate it. Keep it well greased and you'll be able to put it on your next boat in about 50 years. Good work you two.
On getting your chain down thru the deck to the storage area: could you use like some 2” PVC pipe below deck and sealing at the deck level. Run the piping close to the chain/ rope storage area? This may help you with a method to consider??
Garret, so nice of you to offer to carry the heavy piece….mighty nice of you……always thinking of Ruth I see.
Might want to wipe the grease off where the break touches... just saying
Yep!
Speed boat guy was a tool. In UK we have a mandatory 5 knot speed limit on inland waterways.
Same here! Guess he didn't get the memo haha
R
No dear. It's just like the roads, nobody gives a shit about the speed limit until they get pulled over.
The windlass is beautiful. So beautiful it would look good sitting in my Living Room as an object of admiration! A piece of art cast in the Industrial Age - that also happens to have a real and important function. Btw, the terminology for this beauty (according to merchant marine standard usage) is as follows: a) the rope winch is called a "Gypsy Head", b) the chain wheel is called a "Wildcat", c) the path for the chain, in and out of the chain locker, is called the "Spill Pipe", d) the angled bar under the aft side of the Wildcat, is the "Stripping Bar". Just sayin"!
Oooooh Tarbaby!
I love how the Boat didn't even move from the inconsiderate ass that caused the wake ! Shes a Beast!
The only way that this could be better would for it to be twice as long. The best jeans on RUclips. The windlass project is so satisfying. Another great video. Goodnight from Georgia. Cheers.
My thoughts exactly😊.
I was just fixing to comment when you realize that you had grieved the face of the gear that leans against the brake! Glad you caught it now not later!
Another good build it video! That king tide had cars looking like boats in the parking lot in the Brisbane Marina.
Lovely episode guys. You make such a lovely couple. Nice windlass. Well up to the job.
FYI: You want to raise that windless so that it’s even or above the highest point of the chain otherwise you aren’t going to get enough chain in the pockets of the gypsy.
Friend of mine wrote a book called The Joy of backyard boat building. You might find it amusing. When the publisher ask him what's the difference between this than any other how to do it booked he said this isn't a how to do it, this is how we did it!
A classic Garrett episode, lots of pondering and a good coat of looking at. And a drop of the red stuff, every box ticked for a successful boat project. Have a good 2022 and counting down your 100 days. All the best, Mike in Sheffield UK.
What happened to the engine pondering???
Thanks
A tip for knowing how much daylight you have! as an estimate when the sun is setting. hold out your hand at arms length bend your wrist 90 degrees so your pinky finger is on the horizon, add fingers to reach the bottom of the Sun. Count the fingers, each finger is approximately 15 minutes of daylight!
my tip is when it gets dark turn the light on, then you will know if it's dark enough.
Does that work at all latitudes? 🤔....i know near the Equator sunset tends to come rapidly... compared to temperate zones.
Sun moves its diameter every two minutes. This works at any latitude if you know the path of the sun.
I look forward to every Thursday and another video closer to watching you set sail. Your work is amazing as is your craftsmanship. Every day at sea, Redivida will demonstrate how well she is designed and built. You two have a lot to enjoy due to determination, dedication, and sweat.... kinda like marriage. LOL
Ahh! You left us in suspence!!! Good move! 👍 But going through Garrett's thought proccess and explanation will be a learning experience.
I must say the boat looks so awesome ! love her lines inside and out !
Thank you!
good stuff
You are an amazing shipwright
That was a lot of fun to watch!
Looks great!!! The contact surface for the cork brake band (drum) looks too rough. It'll eat the cork if you need to slow a heavy chain with it. You might want to get the drum cleaned up on a lathe. Also, consider using an anti-seize on the fasteners if you want make your life a bit easier in the future.
I was looking for a can of anti-seize when he was putting the Windlass together. In the future Those screws are going to be corroded.
How many people started typing about the windless break and then deleted when he noticed, doh me too. Lol
Seems a whole lot of them didn't. And they sure as hell don't read the comments before they open that pie hole
Elevate the windlass to make it harder for water on the deck to enter the chain hole…. and keep it off the thru bolts….
A hint of Spring is in the air and Red Aviva is looking bonnie. She's testimony to your dedication, skill and determination. Have a Happy & Prosperous 2022. ⚓️👍
I’ve been following your journey for a while, it’s been amazing.
Know It’s even more exciting as all that hard work is nearly done .
You are so close to becoming sailers & not ship builders.
Great job guys
Ruthie Garrett is good with tools, don't miss one, congratulations!
Having the chain rollers on the bowsprit not a good idea IMO. The strains generated when anchored in a heavy blow aren't to be underestimated. But, what do I know, I've no experience in this!
You would never leave the anchor chain supported on the rollers in a heavy blow. The chain would be transferred to an anchor bridle or pendant that is then attached to strong points on the vessel like an anchor eye through the stem or through-bolted deck cleats or through-deck post.
@@boooshes That sounds fine but wouldn't it be better if you didn't have to do that in the first place? Is the straight stem hull design a factor?
@@delukxy generally, you would never want to anchor a heavy vessel (except maybe for short periods) without a pedant or bridle system that connects to "hard points". Most rollers are not hard point designed (not fastened into a.major boat timber). If your boat has a bowsprit, you must work with it or around it in some fashion. When the anchor is hoisted (especially in rolling or pitching conditions, it is nice to have it hanging away from the sides or stem until it is controlled by some on-deck process. To your point, retrieving an anchor in heavy seas can be a difficult proposition due to the size and period of forces, handling on deck, etc. Having a completely remote system where one can stay at the helm and press a button for hydraulic or electric motors to winch the anchor against extreme forces and automatically stow it safely is great. But every element of that system must be designed with safety margins to stand up to the conditions. Instead, most small vessels depend upon human strength and wise decisions made when deciding to anchor. Generally, you really don't want to depend on the winch itself to carry storm loads - same with a roller system. But you certainly can. Fir Rediviva, I would fully expect this crew to anchor on a bridle or pendant in heavy conditions and consider the roller system strength when retrieving. The bowsprit and rollers have substantial strength. Garrett and Ruthie should also have a plan for anchor retrieval if they need to bypass the sprit rollers.
@@boooshes Your well considered comments just reinforce my concerns. Your last sentence also is very relevant. Of course there will be times when the weather is bad you'll just want to ride it out. It's times like these that use of the rollers when dropping the anchor is concerning. Do you then have to hook the chain off the rollers? Currently there appears to be no reinforced chute for the chain over the bow and below the bowsprit. The chain could also easily foul the bobstay. Am I over analysing this as someone with no yachting experience?
@@delukxy no, you aren't over thinking it. On the other hand, I trust that they have all of these things in mind as well. Chain guards and chain guides often have to be worked out and revised after some experience on a new vessel. It is extremely difficult to correctly predict how anchor rodes, lines, sheets, etc. will run and lay during use. The rollers wouldn't concern me much for dropping anchor. The pendant or bridle gets attached (onto the chain, ahead of the winch) once enough scope is out. Then more chain passes over the winch and rollers until the bridal accepts all of the load. No load would then be on the winch or rollers. How the bridal attach point to the chain rode is accomplished and how it is guided past the rollers is specific to the specific system and the captain. In some ways, this might be similar to concerns about sail reefing systems. Reefing sails during weather changes can be a serious safety issue for the vessel. Some systems require more human strength and involvement, some are more 'automatic'. Not every captain wants roller reefing and electric winches, though - they have their drawbacks. Reefing under heavy wind loads can be tricky and difficult. Wise forethought and execution can make it routine and safer. Anchoring is similar. Having an armored drag location across the gunwale for the chain if needed is likely a good idea, but my guess is that you'll see something like that at some point on Rediviva.
Man you guys got bombarded with comments , well take what you can out of them . Bellybuttons and elbows everybody has umm. We live on a boat and our second boat is moored next door . That's two of every possible nightmare , between rigging, engine , sails , and barnacles living the dream is hard work , wouldn't change a thing , Aloha
Make sure you have spares of the brake and spring mate.
I agree make a new one now or buy on
Hi Garrett, nice job.
Only one thing, you gotta degrease the brake band and braking surface on the big pinion or you simply won’t have a brake when there’s any load on it.
Been there, done that!
Cheers, R. 😎👍🍻
I noted the same thing.... He greased the braking surface...
You could make an attachment so if you were in a hurry. You could adapt a 1/2 drill so it could be powered, temporarly. Parker's (I think) in Marblehead Ma. in the 70's and 80's. Used a 1/2 drill to launch boats from the pier using a homemade crane set up. I am talking 30' sailboats, with full keels!
Good Job. minus the greasing the braking contact area. You will know if you cleaned the surface properly when you attempt to brake the windlass (caution). SWAB rules.
That windlass is such a cool thing! Looking forward to seeing it installed …. and most importantly in use!
hahahaa, one of those rare moment we see somebody running away from a thumbs-up on youtube! 😂🤣
Great video thank you was hoping there would be time to see the windless running, clearly the sun is setting to quickly in your neck of the woods, look forward to the next video
Out standing! Guys! Wet is good in California! Morons with money is what the guy is creating all the wake! no respect for anyone else! An Armstrong windlass how cool is that unless you have to be the operator in the tropics. I see a new Electric windlass in your future, in a few years! after all you guys are young!
I always appreciate the details that you explain.
You could put a spacer between the chain roller & bowsprit so it isn't rubbing on the bowsprit or samson pole. Then move the windless over a little.
Looks like how that windlass is made it should have heavy gear oil in it for the gears to run in. You should make a gasket for the side cover. Think off all the salt water that is going to be constantly spraying on it.
The brake surface and strap are exposed to what would be the gear oil well. How would you keep gear oil off of them?
@@sassafrasvalley1939 Many transmissions rely on braking straps that run in some form of lubricate. I think all motorcycles clutch and pressure plates are wet. Many early vehicles had cork pressure plates that worked within the lubricating system. Just because a braking system runs in oil doesn't mean it won't hold, it depends on the material the braking strap is made of. Why would the windlass be designed with a case if it only required grease for lubricant. Limited slip differentials do not run in grease they run in lubricant. I just think that windlass was designed to be more corrosion resistant than the current set up. That little bit of grease slathered on ring gear and pinion is not going to do much.
THERE BE YE WINDLESS HERE , ARRRH MATEYS !!!! OOPS I FARTED ! Sorry I couldn't help myself with toilet humor .
Very good job! But it's time to hit the road!))
lmfao,honey i probabley should not have greased the brakes,classic
Hi guys, I've seen on many boats a metal sleeve that ran from the winch too the side off the stem post, this sleeve is laid flat on the deck. Cheers !
A metal pipe for the chain to run thru will go a long way to keeping your bunk clean and dry. Might be nice to have a saltwater pump to hose down the chain as it comes aboard.
Grease on the braking surface??? Are you sure about that?
Unless the grease is a high temp type it will end up on the surface eventually because the windlass is painted black. Many motorcycle clutches are wet type and they work fine.
lovely project and beutiful to look at this windlass, is it al aluminium?. If that is the case the next time get a bit of TEFGEL in the Stainless stee bolts, that will the prevent the threats in the allumium to be corroded. Probaly you already did it. Cheers!
Hope you plan on using a mooring bridal instead of swinging at anchor off the bowsprite.
The windlass braking surface shouldn't be greased, should it?
He realized that, and cleaned it off Charlie.
Grease on the brake?? hmm
I was thinking the same...
Fire hazard
για ναυτικοι δεν ξερω αν κανετε αλλα για κατασκευαστες εισται τελιοι μπραβο σας 👀👀🍺🍺👍👍
Nice video
Umm… you just greased the surface that the brake strap rubs against. I hope your anchor isn’t too heavy.
Thats what i thought. Hopefully that grease isnt flammable because thats gonna get hot.
He realized that and wiped it off. Mind you I think it would be better to clean it off with a solvent rather than the dry rag he used!
@@57dent yeah, brake parts cleaner lol
Hey, Garrett, on that few more swipes with the plane... wood swells in width, and just a minor amount in thickness. It doesn't swell in length.
In 30 years as a carpenter building houses that's not been my experience. Wood swells and shrinks in ALL dimensions. Just some more than others
Should the windlass take a like bit more grease ? Also on the shaft and key and screws to avoid been seized.
👍👍👍👍👍
Garrett just watched you grease the back of the main gear and think you got the braking surface lubricated too. Okay, you figured it out
Glad someone else saw that. Lots of comments about it but most don't admit to having seen that part. Typical TROLLS. Always willing to criticize and denigrate but never acknowledge the corrections when they are made. SOOO many trolls
I sent 10 bucks last video and asked others to match me for a new engine. Well? Isn't all this entertainment worth 10 bucks? Aren't these nice people deserving? God Bless.
RUclipsrs have bought new engines for Peter Knowles of Travels with Geordie, Dr. Hetty ( spelling? ) of Sailing Chuffed and Cap'n Rick of Sailing Sophisticated Lady. Don't see a problem with that here but the base engine is sound all the parts are availabe ( although expensive ) and all she really needs is a reseal. As long as you don't have to pay an exorbitantly overpriced MARINE mechanic it shouldn't take that much to preserve this piece of boating history. I know it's a pain in the posterior but, Garrett, you can do it. And it would so fit the philosophy of Rediviva Please keep her going. And remember, the only thing worse than using it is not using it.
Did you grease the brake drum? Will cause slipping.
Would it be worth putting an iron or stainless steel inlay into the bowsprit for the chain to rub against rather than possibly damaging the timber with the chain ??
Brass or bronze work best as they won't rust. Yes they still corrode but rust is highly abrasive
Yay!!,
Never mind I did not read the other post , and I saw where you removed it
Grease on the brake drum?
Another hole? when will it stop? So I wonder if another hatch, is in the future, for the chain locker?
Did you just put grease on the braking surface?
Hola gente hermosa Garret me parece que es muy fragil donde puciste el levanta ancla teniendo en cuenta el peso de la enbarcacion deverias reforsar el anclaje les mando un abrazo enorme y me encanta los videos que hacen desde SAN LUIS ARGENTINA 🇦🇷❤
☕☕🤪👍goodmorning
Morning!
You could put thin Grease on the back and put a heavy grease in front, (on the racks). IMO. Different grease density for different usage, parts.
Were you guys at the boat when the big waves hit? Any damage?
Why did you put grease on the break? Might want to rethink that. Ok, I just watch you do that.... Good job!
7:30 ok,never seen anybody greasing a brake but there you go
I see you just cottoned on to that! 😂
Guess I would try to link the forces of the windless to the sampson post with strong beams under deck
Due to the fore and aft grain direction of the timber backing plate, wouldn't you contour the top of the 'plate' to fit the arch of the deck, to provide total contact of the backing plate with the underside of the deck? It seems to me that, given the void, the backing plate would be likely to split when the windlass bolts are under tension. Also the plate might be weakened by the lag bolts through the deck beams, into the end grain of the plate. A timber backing plate with the grain perpendicular to the direction of the load might be considered.
Being in the center of the deck I doubt the arc is that extreme but one could put a bit of modeling clay on the mating surface to find out. It's like using plastiguage to check bearing clearance on a motor. Just use a piece of wax paper on one side so it doesn't stick